DIY Project: How to Make a Dining Room Table With Pocket Holes

Jeff, an occasional guest author here and owner of Degenhart Projects & Reviews, made a beautiful oak dining room table, using Pocket Hole Joinery for most of the table’s construction.

Starting materials consisted of S4 red oak boards, table legs, and Jeff’s finish of choice (red Mahogany stain + satin polyurethane). As for the tools, Jeff used a Kreg pocket hole jig, a corded drill, plenty of clamps, and many fasteners. Total cost was around $200.

The steps are fairly straightforward and easy to follow:

Jeff Degenhart Dining Hall Table Pocket Hole Jig Setup

Kreg Pocket Hole Jig Clamped to Table

Jeff Degenhart Dining Hall Table Ready to Assemble

Red Oak Table Components Drilled and Ready for Assembly

Starting off with “S4″ wood boards means that all you need to break them down is a circular saw or table saw; no planing or jointing should be necessary. Although a less economical option, it is also possible to purchase all boards pre-cut to size so that no sawing is necessary.

Jeff Degenhart Dining Hall Table Surface Ready to Clamp

Table Top Construction - no Glue Required

Jeff Degenhart Dining Hall Table Constructed

Assembled and Ready to Finish!

Jeff Degenhart Dining Hall Table Corner Construction

Corner Details, After Mahogany Stain

Jeff Degenhart Dining Hall Table Stained

First Application of Red Mahogany Stain

Jeff Degenhart Dining Hall Table Built and Finished

Ready for Hand-Rubbed Satin Polyurethane Protectant

Additional details and photos are posted up at Jeff’s site.

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5 Responses to DIY Project: How to Make a Dining Room Table With Pocket Holes

  1. Bruce says:

    So, where can I buy S4 oak, or other species?

  2. JeffD says:

    @ Bruce – Lowe’s sells S4 Red Oak. The S4 designation means that it’s finished on all four edges and doesn’t need to be milled.

  3. Stuart says:

    Certain lumber yards may also provide S4 lumber. Or you can also purchase boards surfaced on both sides and with one straight-ripped edge, in which case you will need a circular saw with edge guide or table saw to break it down.

  4. michael says:

    I’m a little concerned about wood movement. It looks like the apron is screwed to the top all the way around. As that solid top expands and contracts with the season, it may rip itself apart. If you see it start to do that, there’s an easy fix. Just remove the screws in the apron, route a groove on the top inside of the apron, and use a bunch of “table top fasteners” from Rockler or elsewhere.

    It looks great, though, and is a wonderful example of what nice stuff you can do quickly and cheaply.

  5. Stuart says:

    You definitely have a point there about the potential wood movement of the opposing grain side aprons. In addition to z-clips that fit into routed grooves, there are special angle plates that can be installed somewhat easier and quicker.

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