Are you considering a new Milwaukee cordless drill? Hopefully we’ll make things clearer, and with as little fluff as possible.
While it is a bit easier to navigate Milwaukee’s selection of cordless drills than many other cordless power tool brands’, it can still be daunting for anyone who isn’t intimately familiar with all of the latest models.
Milwaukee has introduced 8 new models in the two years since I last wrote up a quick comparison, and so an update was due.
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There are plenty of Milwaukee cordless drill buying guides out there, but I haven’t seen a single one that would actually help me if I were researching a purchase.
So, I’m approaching this post as if I were an end user looking to make sense of all of Milwaukee’s different cordless drill offerings for the first time.
After going over some comparisons and specs, I’ll offer my recommendations on the best Milwaukee cordless drills for different user requirements, or rather what I’d purchase for my own needs depending on what I’m looking for.
Please let me know if you feel there’s something missing that could help make this buying guide better, and also if you would like the same approach applied to different brands or types of tools.
Milwaukee Cordless Drill Torque and Speed Comparison Chart
Most tool users will start off their research by looking at a cordless drill’s maximum torque rating. The comparison chart above shows the maximum torque, and maximum no-load speeds.
All of Milwaukee’s M12 and M18 cordless drills have 2 speed settings – low and high – and I feel it’s important to see how torque and speed compare between various models.
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How to Read the Graphs
In the graphs featured on this page, above and below, the vertical y-axis values on the left corresponds to the maximum torque values for Milwaukee’s different cordless drill models, and the values on the right correspond to the maximum speed range values.
If this is your first time seeing a two-axis chart, note that the scales are different. The vertical y-axis labels are also color-coded to help guide you.
Basically, compare red to red and blue to blue. The numbers for the torque specs are on the left, and speed specs on the right.
Model numbers and basic differentiating details are on the horizontal x-axis.
The First Two Decisions to Make
If you want the highest torque and performance possible, there’s one clear choice. If you’re looking for a cordless drill for light to mid duty use, that’s where you get a lot of overlapping options and tough decisions to make.
The first decision you need to make – or have already made – is whether you want an M18 cordless drill, or M12. The M18 drills are great choices for most users, and the M12 are great choices where tool size, weight, and cost are higher priorities over speed and power.
Milwaukee’s M18 cordless drills operate at 18V nominal voltage, and the M12 drills operate at 12V Max, or 10.8V nominal voltage, with the same being true for competing brands’ offerings.
Milwaukee M18 Cordless Drills
There are 7 models of M18 cordless drills, plus 2 more One-Key models (more on those below).
2606 – This brushed motor drill is most commonly available as part of high-value combo kits that are popular with DIYers, homeowners, and possibly tradespeople and pros on a very limited budget.
2607 – Although technically still available, the hammer drill version of the 2606 is increasingly rare to come across these days. I see no reason to discuss it further.
3601/3602 – Milwaukee recently announced these two new M18 compact brushless models, a drill/driver (3601) and hammer drill (3602).
As an aside, cordless drills and hammer drills are both considered drill/drivers, but it seems unnecessary to write out “drill/driver” or “hammer drill/driver” every time. A lot of tool users delegate fastening tasks to impact drivers, but the repeatability of a drill with adjustable torque clutch is still very hard to beat.
The 3601 looks to be replacing the 2801, which has been a highly well-regarded compact brushless drill in the years since it launched.
2902 – This hammer drill fills the gap between the compact brushless drills and M18 Fuel heavy duty models. With Milwaukee now having launched a compact brushless hammer drill, the 2902 seems almost unnecessary.
2903/2904 – These are Milwaukee’s M18 Fuel flagship models – their best drills with the latest tech and features. The hammer drill (2904) is more popular and featured in more sales, promotions, and combo kits.
The 2606 (and 2607 hammer drill) are older tech. As mentioned above, they’re included in high value combo kits, but they can be safely ignored. If you’re looking just to buy a cordless drill, you get much more with Milwaukee’s compact brushless drills, and often at lower prices too.
The outgoing M18 compact brushless drill (2801) is a strong performer and great value. It’s not shown here as it’s seemingly being replaced by the new 3601.
There’s a single battery promo kit version, model 2801-21P, that has been regularly discounted to $99 seasonally. Hopefully the same will be true for the new 3601 model.
As mentioned, the M18 Fuel drill (2903) and hammer drill (2904) are Milwaukee’s flagship models. These are Milwaukee’s best and highest-performing cordless drills. If you’re simply looking for Milwaukee’s best cordless drill – the 2904 is what you want.
| Model | 2606 | 3601 | 3602 | 2902 | 2903 | 2904 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| System | M18 | M18 | M18 | M18 | M18 | M18 |
| Type | Compact | Compact | FUEL | FUEL | ||
| Brushless | No | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Torque (in-lbs) | 500 | 550 | 550 | 725 | 1400 | 1400 |
| Speed (RPM) | 450 1800 | 550 1700 | 550 1700 | 550 1800 | 500 2100 | 500 2100 |
| Length | 7.8″ | 5.7″ | 5.8″ | 7″ | 6.9″ | 6.9″ |
| Weight (lbs) | 3.3 | 2.3 | 2.3 | 3.1 | 3.2 | 3.3 |
| Chuck | 1/2″ | 1/2″ | 1/2″ | 1/2″ | 1/2″ | 1/2″ |
| Hammer | No | No | Yes | Yes | No | Yes |
| BPM | 25,500 | 28,800 | 33,000 | |||
| Launch Year | 2013 | 2023 | 2023 | 2018 | 2022 | 2022 |
I should add that the M18 Fuel drills have an AutoStop feature, an anti-kickback technology designed to help prevent twisting injuries that can happen when a drill binds or jams.
All of the weights are tool-only specs.
If you want to narrow things down quickly, I’d say look at the M18 compact brushless drill, model 3601 (or outgoing 2801 if you’re in a hurry), or the M18 Fuel brushless hammer drill, model 2904. I’d say that these two models will serve most users’ needs.
M18 Cordless Drills with One-Key
Milwaukee recently launched new One-Key versions of their M18 Fuel cordless drill and hammer drill.
The One-Key models, 2905 for the drill/driver and 2906 for the hammer drill, are nearly identical to the 2903 and 2904 drills, but with app-based customizations.
Most notably, the One-Key versions give you more control over the AutoStop anti-kickback tech, as well as customizable speed settings.
Milwaukee M12 Cordless Drills
2407 – Milwaukee’s M12 brushed motor drill is a bit long in the tooth, but still delivers solid performance. It’s a decent value-choice and is included in a couple of seasonal “special buy” kits and combo kits.
2408 – The brushed motor hammer drill isn’t widely available, but it’s still around.
3403/3404 – Milwaukee’s flagship M12 Fuel cordless drill (3403) and hammer drill (3404) are an improvement over the previous generation. They offer a great balance between power and size. The hammer drill is more widely available and included in more discounts and promos.
2505 – The M12 Fuel 4-in-1 drill/driver is a problem-solver that comes with different attachments for drilling holes and accessing fasteners in tight or awkward locations.
If you’re set on an M12 cordless drill, the choices are easy. The 2407 is still a decent budget pick, the M18 Fuel hammer drill (3404) is the performance pick – and often included in deal bundles and promos – and the 2505 is the “you’ll know if you need it” specialty option.
| Model | 2407 | 2408 | 3403 | 3404 | 2505 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| System | M12 | M12 | M12 | M12 | M12 |
| Type | FUEL | FUEL | FUEL | ||
| Brushless | No | No | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Torque (in-lbs) | 275 | 275 | 400 | 400 | 300 |
| Speed (RPM) | 400 1500 | 400 1500 | 450 1550 | 450 1550 | 400 1600 |
| Length | 7.4″ | 7.6″ | 5.95″ | 6″ | 5.1″ |
| Weight (lbs) | 2.4 | 2.3 | 2.1 | 2.2 | 2 |
| Chuck | 3/8″ | 3/8″ | 1/2″ | 1/2″ | 4-in-1 |
| Hammer | No | Yes | No | Yes | No |
| BPM | 0-25,500 | 0-25,500 | |||
| Launch Year | 2013 | 2013 | 2022 | 2022 | 2019 |
Best Milwaukee Cordless Drill for Power Users
Do you want the do-it-all cordless drill? Go for the Milwaukee M18 Fuel hammer drill, model 2904.
You might be thinking “but I don’t really need the hammer drill functionality.” I get it – I’m the same way; I prefer cordless drills to hammer drills where there’s a meaningful difference.
However, there’s not much difference here, and good reasons to look at the hammer drill over the non-hammer drill.
If the hammer drill is any longer, it’s by a rounding error, and it’s less than 1/10 of a pound heavier. There’s no obvious downside anymore.
The drill/driver (2903) is $10 less for the tool-only, and the same for the 2-battery kit. But, there are many more opportunities to score the hammer drill at a discount.
The 2pc combo kit with a hammer drill and impact driver is a popular way to get Milwaukee’s latest and greatest drilling and driving tech.
At the time of this posting, Home Depot has a promo bundle where you can get the tool-only M18 Fuel hammer drill with a bonus charger, 5Ah battery, and 2Ah battery. The tool-only drill/driver is regularly $189, and the tool-only hammer drill is $199. But here, you get the hammer drill, 2x batteries, and a charger, for $199.
Do you see what I mean about how the M18 Fuel hammer drill is worth looking at over the drill/driver, even if you don’t plan on drilling into masonry materials?
Best Milwaukee Cordless Drill Where Size Matters
Milwaukee did a great job with their latest M12 Fuel cordless hammer drill, model 3404.
It’s compact, powerful enough for most light to medium duty tasks, and comfortable to use (at least in my opinion). These are Milwaukee’s best M12 Fuel cordless drills to date.
As with the M18 Fuel drills, the M12 Fuel hammer drill (3404) is featured in more deals and promos than the non-hammer drill (3403). If you just want a cordless drill without hammer function, you can save $10.
Personally, I tend to favor compact 18V-class cordless drills over the M12 Fuel, as the nature of how M12 batteries attach to the drill makes the handle thicker. I feel that the ergonomics have gotten better with each revision, and it’s hard to argue with the small size and light weight of these drills.
The M12 Fuel hammer drill can be a good one-and-only compact drill, or a complement to a higher power 18V-class model.
Milwaukee makes it highly compelling for tool users to upgrade to the latest M12 Fuel hammer drill and brushless impact driver at the same time.
If you’re interested in the Milwaukee M12 Fuel hammer drill, you might want to consider the 2pc hammer drill and impact driver combo kit for just $20 more.
Best Milwaukee Cordless Drill for Most Casual Users
The new Milwaukee 3601 and 3602 M18 compact brushless drill and hammer drill are expected to launch in late summer 2023, and so I have not been able to test them yet.
However, they build upon the previous generations of Milwaukee’s M18 compact brushless drills – tools that I have been especially fond of over the years – and so I am very optimistic that they’ll perform at least on-par if not better.
The new models compare well against the last generation with respect to power and speed, and are more compact.
Here’s a quick comparison:
| Model | 2801 | 3601 |
|---|---|---|
| System | M18 | M18 |
| Type | Compact | Compact |
| Brushless | Yes | Yes |
| Torque (in-lbs) | 500 | 550 |
| Speed (RPM) | 500 | 550 |
| 1800 | 1700 | |
| Length | 6.5″ | 5.7″ |
| Weight (lbs) | 2.5 | 2.3 |
| Chuck | 1/2″ | 1/2″ |
| Hammer | No | No |
| Launch Year | 2018 | 2023 |
If you can wait, I think this will be the model for most casual users to get, as it offers a balance between power, size, and cost.
Best Value Milwaukee Cordless Drill
I fully expect for the new 3601 to also be the new best value pick.
Milwaukee’s cordless drill kits always feature 2 batteries, except for special promotional kits that are sold as seasonal special buys.
Shown here is the 3601-21P, which is the upcoming compact brushless drill kit with a 2Ah battery, charger, and tool bag.
There’s no guarantee it’ll be discounted to the same low price point as the previous generation model, but I’m hoping it will. (Home Depot is currently showing the promo kit at $99 but out of stock, all but confirming that my optimism won’t lead to disappointment.)
In the meantime, if you can’t wait, the 2801-21P promo kit is still a great bargain at $99.
Best Milwaukee Cordless Drill for Working in Tight Spots
Milwaukee’s M12 Fuel installation drill/driver is a convenient and versatile problem-solver.
With the drill chuck attached, it’s a fairly compact drill. (The length listed in the specs table above is for the tool-only.)
Or you can add a quick-change chuck, right angle adapter, or offset adapter to drill or drive around obstacles or in corners and tight spaces. The drill chuck can be attached to the right angle adapter as well.
As mentioned above, this is a “you’ll know if you need it” type of drill. If you’re on the fence, keep track of all the types of tasks and applications you’d use it for, and wait for the next deal bundle or sale.
It has an adjustable torque clutch, which makes it a convenience option for driving fasteners to repeatable depths.
I tend to use it more for driving fasteners than drilling holes, but your needs and habits might be different..
The design takes a little getting used to, but I think it’s worth it.
Some users don’t like the style or placement of the electronic direction control switch, but I have not found it to be a problem.
Where to Get the Best Deals
A lot of buying guides point to listings at Amazon and Walmart as places to buy Milwaukee drills and other cordless power tools, but neither are authorized dealers for the brand. Most 3rd party listings are from resellers who shop the same retail sales and deals you can.
Acme Tools, Home Depot, Ohio Power Tool, and Tool Nut are recommended sources for Milwaukee tools.
You can sometimes get great discounts on drill kits, but a lot of the time the best deals are on bundle or combo offerings.
I included some shopping tips in the post, such as how the hammer drill versions can be better buys than the non-hammer model drills. Please let me know if you have any questions!
Reader Recommendations?
I covered what I’d pick and why – I narrowed it down to the M12 and M18 Fuel hammer drills, the M18 compact brushless drill, and the M12 Fuel 4-in-1 installation drill/driver.
I put together the information I’d find helpful when shopping for a drill, and would appreciate any feedback.
Do you agree with these recommendations? What would you pick differently?
surfjungle
Great post – thank you for clarifying. For me it’s between Makita’s XGT flagship percussion drill and the Milwaukee M18 Fuel flagship percussion. I live in Europe and so don’t appear to have the same XGT supply issues as the US.
MoogleMan3
Great topic to cover. Honestly, with the 3404 being so close to the upcoming 3601, I’m seeing the 3404 as a hard sell unless one is in the m12 lineup exclusively.
I’m loving how compact and yet still powerful 18v drills are becoming. As a perfect example, I recently installed a door on my oldest daughter’s bedroom, and my dewalt 12v xtreme 5 in 1 driver would not be able to drill the door knob hole, as much as I love that driver. My dcd800 obviously handled it with no problem while only being very slightly larger and heavier.
Festool also has the cxs and txs 18v variants releasing sometime this year, and those are very compact and powerful too, though I’m not really into anything cordless by festool.
eddie sky
I love marketing photos! /s
I mean, that image of drilling a stud without the side handle, you KNOW its a wrist buster when that bit bites and hangs. Or the woman operating a M18 drill/driver with setting on 2 for a 1/2″ screw to a door pull just is overkill. Should be using the M12 smaller series.
I still have my DeWalt driver and there are now Prime Day deals on 5Ah batteries that come to $134 for a pair! Now, if they would sell their slim versions for that instead of $300.
Alexk
I wish I could find an excuse to upgrade, but all my m12 and m18 still work great (except my rotary which had a stuck collet and was rendered useless). All my drills and drivers are between 10 and 7 years old. The only thing I would like is the anti kickback on the hammer drill. A couple of years ago I was drilling a 3/4” hole while standing on a ladder and had to stretch, so I had one hand holding a rafter and when the drill bound in the hole, it twisted my arm and the battery cracked me in the jaw. Saw stars but didn’t pass out. It was a good lesson and thankfully I didn’t fall or lose any teeth. Just don’t use it enough to justify a drill with brake. Also, am aware of the danger and pay attention now.
Jim
Thanks for this Stuart.
I was looking for this kind of info back during the Memorial Day – Fathers Day sales.
I ended up getting a 2901 with (2) batteries. Couldn’t be happier. The chuck is head and shoulders above the Ryobi that was bought as a “convenience” option.
As a retired professional mechanic I am/was heavily invested in corded and air tools.
I’ve really tried to resist any major investment into any battery powered tools but this old dog is learning new tricks.
Rx9
I highly recommend cordless impacts. Modern brushless motors provide a lot of torque. My cordless impacts have proven handy when pulling parts at the junkyard.
Also, it makes life way easier when it comes to parking lot repairs. I once assisted a friend swapping out a lower control arm.
With the full size models, even cv axle nuts and crank pulley bolts are easy.
fred
Acme has the 2904-22 kit for $299 (same as HD) but adds in an extra 5.0Ah battery:
https://www.acmetools.com/milwaukee-m18-fuel-1-2-hammer-drill-driver-kit-2904-22/045242637737.html
Big Richard
You also can buy a 2Ah/5Ah starter kit from HD for $199 and select a “free” 2904. If one was so inclined to return that battery kit, they would have snagged a 2904 for around $99.
Peter Antonvich
I love my m12 stuff – they are compact and punch above their weight – I’ve abused my 2504 hammer drill and screwed up the chuck with a 1” deming bit drilling / wallering out a hole on some 1/2” steel plate. I should have used my drill press – lol. The chuck still works it’s just difficult to chuck bits now. I’ve tried getting the chuck off but have had no luck – I removed the screw and I’ve been hoping as I use it it will undo itself- and yes I’ve tried the wacking a chucked Allen key. I’ve been kind of looking into upgrading to the 3404. But it’s hard to justify 150$ when it still just works – lol. I’ve been hoping for a $99 drill deal- but those days are gone. I originally picked this drill because of that half inch chuck size capacity and the hammer drill part I switch from Dewalt when my 18 V NiCad batteries crapped out. I loved the drill so much that I went full full tilt with the M12 line – the only tool I’m disappointed with is the saw. I’ve drilled brick and concrete and I feel there’s nothing this drill can’t handle will except maybe the plate where I was using the wrong tool for the job. Lol.
Badger12345
What a great post Stuart! Consolidating all of the useful and relevant data in one post is super helpful and generous of you.
I agree with you on the M12 ergonomics; not great. Nonetheless, I have both a M12 and M18 collection. Like you, I prefer the ergonomics of the M18 tools. However, in tight spaces the compact size of M12 can really make a difference. For working inside cabinets, major appliances, and some auto repair the M12 tools with the small battery will fit whereas tools like the M18 with the larger sliding battery will not. I also prefer M12 if I am high up on an extension ladder or working overhead for any period of time. Fortunately, I can afford to have both and I’m grateful and happy.
JR Ramos
Great idea and thanks for compiling this. For me, this wouldn’t be especially helpful because I am generally upgrading from an older tool/broken-stolen tool which is usually a previous generation of some flavor. In this instance, if I want to use your charts, I can’t see anything about Fuel Gen 2 vs Gen 3 vs Gen 4 so I have to go snoop listed specs and reviews anyway.
Also…torque. Unfortunately with their drills and several other tools, Milwaukee got on the exaggeration bandwagon and as has been shown, their published torque specs are way way off the mark. So I look at a chart and see “x” inch pounds (and assuming I can translate that meaningfully into drill work (instead of the more familiar wrench work)) I choose a model…only to find out that it really doesn’t deliver the way they said it would, or it can’t do it for very long. Similar to choosing a rotary hammer power level that actually suits your needs. Maybe I should have gone with a different M12 model or maybe I should have known to step up to M18….but the specs, dang it!
TTC on YouTube has done some marvelous work with good equipment – really interesting and also truth-telling, and their approach/attitude/lack of investment is excellent. Maybe on the graph bars you could add some hatching or shading that shows “tested values” as a comparison against what Milwaukee publishes. This should be with the assumption or statement that the better batteries are chosen for this (as they do with their published specs and as TTC has done with all the models they test…not always, but most often the “high output” flavors do deliver more). I think TTC’s work is impressive and reliable enough to regurgitate without risk – only very tiny niggles in methodology or circumstances sometimes and they’re usually aware or state such when need be. They even did a great job converting the various “alternative figures” DeWalt has always been famous for, so you get good apples to apples results.
Not everyone needs to focus on torque, though, and today’s drills are so very capable of typical tasks…pretty neat really. But it’s a real letdown to be let down by embellishment, especially since returns of new-used tools are not always an easy experience.
In text, things like the big shift to and then later from the electronic clutch on their drills is important to be aware of, worth mentioning somehow.
Mentioning the presence of stop rotation is also important – that’s a make or break feature for many people (literally…haha).
But more models on the chart…even if they’re scarce or extinct. Helps those who are comparing for an upgrade, imho.
Stuart
With cordless drills, while the specs are somewhat BS, they’re BS across most brands.
Major cordless power tool brands are all part of an industry group, and the group has published standards regarding how to come up with torque specs.
I have looked into testing apparatus before, and it’s both costly and complex to do it right.
The most useful information would be UWO – unit watts out – and it’s ironic how end users tend to vehemently dislike how Dewalt and other SBD drills are rated in such a manner.
https://toolguyd.com/dewalt-cordless-drills-uwo-torque/
The last I looked into getting a magnetic brake dyno – https://toolguyd.com/torque-adapter-cordless-drill-specs/#comment-1392014 – I was quoted more than $21K to buy, and $5.3K to rent, not including crating and shipping fees.
Just the brakes required for higher torque testing would have been $3-5K.
I can absolutely test and compare cordless drills in a scientific manner. The problem is, beyond the cost for the necessary equipment, there are too many variables. Cordless drills aren’t continuous-use tools. How can this be factored into performance testing? Battery packs are not built alike. Can we remove that from the equation?
I’ve thought about this over the years, but aside from the high cost, it would require substantial time investment to get things going.
It’s also no substitute for say drilling a hole through 2x material with a 2-1/2″ self feeding drill bit.
As for an M18 Fuel chart – I can absolutely put together a historical chart. That’s partly why working through this took so much time yesterday, I wanted to make sure it was a reusable approach.
JR Ramos
I’m aware of all that, yes. And sorry…I wasn’t suggesting that you invest the time or $$$ in doing your own testing, just that it’s being done pretty accurately elsewhere and that information is 1) gold, 2) worthy of sharing in comparisons with published values and using a level playing field in terms of figures.
I assumed you might be familiar with TTC….Torque Test Channel on YouTube. Probably coming across like a fan boy, which is pretty much never me, but the work they have been doing is actually quite impressive and useful. They started with air impacts and then cordless impacts before branching out. They’ve got at least two serious pieces of testing equipment and then have rather intelligently rigged some others/adaptations for different tools.
on your example….where this info is so helpful is if you are, say, wondering if the torque and voltage maintenance on your prospective tool/battery is up to drilling through 4x material, or perhaps 3-4 stacked planks…or metal plate with whatever you’re chucking up. Or just lots of repetitive holes instead of a couple (although this is probably more of a limited scenario for the majority of people). So…is the torque “real” and maybe more importantly, is it reasonably sustainable. Until manufacturers do choose to play on an honest and level marketing playing field, it’s often silly to rely upon their numbers. (On the flip side, the TTC guys more recently showed how a couple of Bosch models were greatly *underrated* in their published specs…a rarity.)
Stuart
TTC’s testing is good for comparative analysis. They do great work.
But for accurate quantitative numbers, it has to be shown that a brake or load provides consistent resistance, and over time. Friction and heat can throw things off.
You also need an established and consistently adhered to protocol, such as x-minutes between testing that is repeated y-number of times.
Qualitative testing is easy. Defensible quantitative testing is not.
I’ve considered using weighted wheels and brakes before, with an inline transducer and RPM sensor, but I’m not sure I’d be able to eliminate doubt.
For gauging qualitative differences, I prefer application based testing, such as drilling 5x 2-1/2” holes in 2x material. But, sometimes I doubt how useful the results would be.
I’m shopping around for a drill and impact torque tester (again), and the floor is around $3000 for one that can measure both continuous and impact rotation, plus two joint simulator rundown adapters. That should allow for manufacture spec validation, at least under 2000 in-lbs. Testing above that requires a heavier duty torque transducer.
JR Ramos
Yes, agreed…and boy would that be a lot more effort yet, right! I was just tossing the idea out there as a possibility since the advertised specs are still a-little-or-a-lot bunky these days.
That said, just about all drills these days suit most people/most jobs just fine, even the better 12V. It’s incredible how far we’ve come, isn’t it. I’ve had my M12 Fuel hammerdrill for I guess 7 years or so now and it’s been a daily driving workhorse, even handling some things I wouldn’t have thought it could. So for a lot of people/uses the manufacturer power/torque specs being off may not matter that much. But if it does, it sucks to discover it after purchase.
If you were to set up for all that testing, would it just be “advanced fun” and sharing here, or do you have other goals? I’d love to see the work if/when you do…you’ve got the approach and the education to make valuable data.
Stuart
I regularly perform application testing, real-world, simulated, or both based on the tool, to get a feel for different products.
But for quantitative testing, there’s no point in my gathering measurements if not to share, and I’d like to avoid sharing data I’m not fully confident about.
Controlled, repeatable, and accurate max torque testing should be relatively easy to do with a few thousand dollars worth of equipment.
Controlled, repeatable, and accurate max power testing requires either a lot of money ($$$$$) in equipment (such as with an electromagnetic brake-based dyno), a lot of time and money ($$$$) to build and configure a custom setup with the ideal gear, or a huge amount of time and lot of money ($$-$$$) to build and calibrate a custom setup out of less expensive gear.
I’m increasingly curious in double-checking torque specs. I’m very curious in testing for max power output, but it’s simply too cost prohibitive, time-consuming, or both, to set up the proper test equipment.
I revisit the idea for both every couple of years.
I’m close to making a decision on an electronic torque tester, but not on a dyno (either turn-key or DIY).
I might eventually build a flywheel dyno or similar (I like the idea of a water brake), but am highly reluctant to do so if I can’t produce measurements with high repeatability and confidence.
MT
I have a 1st-gen M12 Fuel hammer driver/drill and the 4-in-1 installer. Both great tools.
The hammer drill is on it’s 3rd chuck; first one failed after several years of use, 2nd was just a junk replacement, 3rd is solid so far. I know newer generations have better specs, but mine has finished a basement, built a tree house, built a shed, and done countless other jobs around the house, so it works fine for me. And I don’t like how the mode switch dial and the driver clutch dial are combined in one on the newer gens; I prefer the separate dials of the 1st gen.
I suspect if I ever encounter a job where I feel the M12 is holding me back enough to make it worth buying an 18V tool, I’ll go with a Ryobi, since I already have the batteries for that and just don’t see needing an 18V enough to make it worth investing in the M18.
The 4-in-1 installer tool stays in my small random-easy-jobs-around-the-house bag. In my mind it was perfect for random light duty jobs around the house that don’t require the robustness of the the Fuel tools (I also have the impact driver–got it and the drill/driver in their combo kit), but looking at the chart, it appears to be more robust than I gave it credit for. I don’t need the right angle or offset heads very often, but when I do need them, I *really* need them, so they’re nice to have.
MKY
Stuart –
Under “Best Milwaukee Cordless Drill Where Size Matters” both “Buy the TK at Home Depot” links do not work – at least for me.
Mitherial
For me, the ideal Milwaukee “DIY starter” set, and core of what I use the most outside of automotive contexts (budget permitting of course) would be whatever the current flagship M18 Drill and Impact driver combination set, plus the M12 Surge Impact (which I basically use as a lightweight drill and driver single-tool combination whenever I don’t need the bigger boys).
Like Stuart, I’d prefer to have a drill without the hammer function though not enough to lose out on the combo-deal savings. Contrary to Stuart, I think that most homeowner-DIYs will eventually benefit from owning the M12 Installation driver, but the budget-line does need to be drawn somewhere.
Mark M.
This is a great summary. Personally, I would be in the market for a new M18 drill/HD except that the M12 Surge covers about 90% of everything I need to get done, including drilling which I never expected. For industrial/trade use, no question a dedicated drill is a must and I’ll always have one in my arsenal, but I’m surprised at how little I reach for a drill anymore when drivers and hex shank drill bits have gotten to be so good.
Jared
Even though I’m not interested in any Milwaukee drills (no negative feelings for the brand, I’m just well-equipped with drills and invested in multiple other platforms), that was a fun and informative read!
The most surprising fact was that the new M18 Fuel drills make 1400 in/lbs of torque! My most powerful drill is a Ridgid that does 1000 in/lbs – and I thought it was a beast.
If someone is buying a new drill and only plan to have one, I think the second most important factor (budget obviously being #1) is weight. While I like my Ridgid drill, my Bosch sees far more use simply because its so much lighter and compact.
JR Ramos
They don’t, though. They’re no slouch but if the trend continues as with previous models it’s probably more like 60% to 70% of that figure and the HO packs will boost it a small amount (plus maintain the voltage output better/less sag).
xu lu
I own the 2802-simply one of the poorest tools ive ever purchased. As a result i have no confidence the 2902 is meaningfully better. I find myself using my m12 surge as a result. They can make 50 drills but all we need is a 12 and 18 that perform.
Joatman
I have the M12 3404 and also a brushed 2407…..plus I have the DEWALT 20v impact driver. These 3 have gotten me through all of my drilling needs for the past several years……..until a few weeks ago when I went to drill holes into a stump I was getting ready to burn out. I definitely could have used more torque…..perhaps even a rotary drill. This post here points to the 2904 for my needs, hands down. Awesome post here, just wish I could think of some more scenarios where I’d need the extra torque of the 2904, that my other drills couldn’t handle.
Tom
Nice roundup. Same for impacts would be most appreciated!
J. Newell
Very, very helpful presentation. The way you organized it makes the otherwise daunting task of trying to organize and compare information far easier and more effective. Milwaukee (and other manufacturers) could learn some things here…
Vin W
Completely agree. Perfect summary. I spent countless hours wading through Home Depot and Milwaukee web sites, swiping past all the pictures every time, taking notes on the fragments of specs scattered around and still hadn’t sorted out all the choices. I kept thinking “why can’t they just do a comparison table so I can make sense of this mess?” So, extremely happy with the article. Being far from a pro or heavy duty user, think I’ll go with the new version of the compact M18 set.
OldDominionDIYer
In the M12 world I own the 2403, 2407 and the wonderful 2505. The 2403, which no longer available is a “Fuel” model with a 1/2 inch chuck 350 in/lbs of torque with speeds of 450/1700. For much of my work this is my go to drill driver, fantastic unit, lightweight yet with plenty of power. The 2505 is super versatile and comes in handy all the time and the 2407 is frankly a backup that is rarely used. Nothing wrong with it just tend to grab of the other ones. I have the second and 3rd gen M18 Hammer drills and love them both. Recently picked up the Flex 24V Hammer drill and that is very impressive as well. Probably wont be getting the 4th gen no matter how good it is, at least for now.