So, I went to wash my hands. The bedroom sink sees less use than those in our other bathrooms, but I tend to notice when things feel *off.* The cold water handle seemed a little tight.
That prompted me to look under the sink – I don’t know what I expected to see, but it seemed like a good idea.
What are the dark spots on the hose? I felt it and some grit came off. Rust? On what’s supposed to be a 4-year-old stainless steel braided hose?
I looked at the hot water side. The hose was short and looked to be intact, but…
The shut-off valve was a mess. That’s… a lot of mineral deposits. The bathroom was completely redone 4 years ago. I don’t access this cabinet very often, but I’ll have to check it more frequently.
And… there’s some droplets up at the bottom of the sink.
It *could* be water leaking under the handles or faucet – maybe? – but could also be condensation I guess.
Needless to say, I’ve got some work ahead of me. This seems like pretty basic stuff to do.
But, enter my obsessive mentality. Which parts do I buy and from where? I drew a complete blank. That’s where you guys come in.
Talking to a lot of pros, and from my own observations, there are three very different options stick out in my mind.
- Parts from Home Depot or Lowe’s are substandard and often recommended against
- Parts from Home Depot or Lowe’s are just fine
- Parts from the supply houses are just as bad or worse that home improvement centers if you don’t know what you’re looking for
The home center vs. supply house debate has never been finalized. We’ve had several failures of supply house outlets and switches, and some of the switches feel “mushy,” while the better stuff from the home center are working a lot better.
When we had some electrical work done, my electrician told me the parts I showed him from Home Depot were better than what he’d be able to source from the electrical supply house for the money.
For things like faucets, I’ve heard and seen that supply house parts are almost ever better-built than those you’d find at the home centers.
But what about the basic parts, such as shut-off valves and hoses?
Shown here is a Dahl shut-off valve, model 611-33-31, and after I double-check on sizing this is probably what I’ll get. I might check with my local plumber to see what they use.
The Dahl valve is harder to find online than the BrassCraft valves sold at Home Depot, but not much more expensive.
This particular valve is described as a mini ball valve, which I like the idea of better than the turn-turn-turn valves our sinks and toilets currently feature.
Home Depot also does have BrassCraft quarter-turn valves, but for not much more money (ignoring shipping fees for the moment), the made-in-Canada Dahl seems more appealing.
Looking at hoses, one online supply shop that carries the Dahl valves has a Bluefin-branded 16″ connector hose for $2.82, and a Fluidmaster 16″ hose for $3.19. The BrassCraft 16″ hose is $5.75 at Home Depot. All look to have metal compression nuts (as opposed to plastic). The Home Depot part costs twice as much, but that doesn’t mean it’s twice as good. Hoses are definitely important here – which do/would you but?
When is it okay to buy from a home center, and when is it time to shop at other suppliers or trade suppliers? Which brands do you trust most?
Side question – after looking into what’s needed to replace what looks to be a compression-fitting valve, a few online sources say to cut the pipe first, others say to be mindful of where the new compression ring is placed. With the fittings the way they are, there’s not much room for cutting.
Oh, and what the heck is going on here:
This is in the hall bath, with BrassCraft valves. Did they use pipe tape with some kind of dope? It’s dripping some oil-like substance. My understanding is that pipe tape is absolutely not needed on these kinds of fittings. *facepalm*
I love designing and building new fabrications. Fixing things drives my blood pressure way up.
I’d probably go to my local Ace Hardware, because they have the most knowledgeable staff of the retail hardware stores, and for some areas (including plumbing), they are trade oriented.
My local ace hardware is the equivalent of a k-mart
Ace Hardware stores are franchises, so they can vary wildly depending on the owner. I have been in some that are nothing more than a junk tools store that makes Harbor Freight look like Tiffany’s, and I have been in others that are staffed with experts and have a huge selection of pro-level supplies. It just depends where you go.
Anymore, however, it seems the K-Mart’ish Ace Hardware stores are more and more common…
Licensed plumber is the way to go
My Ace is a joke. Barely better than a dollar store and they tried to charge me over 100 bucks for a 30 dollar gallon of paint then treated me like a thief when I pointed out that the total was incorrect. This incompetent store was in Attalla, Alabama.
Yeah my acehard is a joke as well. I went in and asked about a pipe threaded for galvanized pipes. They had no clue was I was talking about.
Unfortunately if you are replacing compression type valves you have to recut the pipe to install another one. This is because the crimp ring will be compressed around the existing pipe. The only chance you have of putting a compression type on what you have is removing that plastic escutcheon and cutting the pipe with a mini hacksaw right behind the fitting. Those Dahl valves are excellent BTW. Made in Canada and quality.
You do not need to cut the pipe! You do get to buy a new tool. Compression Sleeve Puller and Sleeve Remover.
I like to put a little pipe dope on the threads to act as a lubicant to make it a bit easier to tighten the nut.
This, exactly. Pull the compression ring off, clean the copper. Cutting the copper will mean you have 2 or 3 changes, then you have to rip up the wall.
I had a plumber I did some side jobs for recommend turning water valves on and off every once and a while to break off the deposits on the valve internally, especially if the shaft is plastic. If too much builds up, you won’t be able to shut it off without breaking the shaft.
I got so annoyed with replacing the crappy valves in the kitchen and bathrooms in my house that I put inline ball valves on the lines in the basement where I could put them directly in copper. That way, I can shut off hot/cold to upstairs, downstairs, basement, and kitchen all individually.
Amazing that people will spend big bucks on tile and fixtures and then buy the cheapest angle stops that they can find.
Our residential plumbing business may have been somewhat guilty as well – but for our industrial clients we’d often spec Hoke valves.
The plumbing supply business in our neck of the woods (we operated in a radius that nipped into 5 states) – was consolidating more and more when I sold up and retired – with many independents selling out or just closing. I’m sure that Home Depot was part of the cause. But some small independents seemed to have gotten bought up by folks like Ferguson
Amen to using quality ball valves for shut offs – upstream of fixture valves/angle stops.
BTW, the other approach – instead of trying to pull the compression sleeve – is to cut it. We had some pullers (mostly Pasco) – but also had some cutters:
I don’t recall what they guys liked best – but I think that they are primarily designed to work on 1/2 inch fittings.
There is a compression ring removal tool that is the cat’s meow in tight situations where you have no room to cut behind but
My preference if compression ring was done right first time?? Is to find a stop valve with same thread on comp nut. Don’t disturb the mechanical connection anymore than necessary.. as long as stops are exercised every year or two 1/4 turn are preferred IMO. As others note you can pull ring and recompress maybe twice or so. Nothing between pipe and brass ring, maybe a little dope or grease on outside of ring for lube. I’ve heard pros who go both ways.
The worst 1/4 turn I’ve seen are nibco and the round handle is plastic. This was a 15yo apartment building and many hadn’t been exercised for many years. I’m sure they were from a supplier and cheap in bulk. Also glued on cpvc which I hate.
I like the quarter turn valves at HD or menards. Kinda depends on where I am or a coupon/ gift card.
I have seen “hand tighten” supply hoses, but never tried them.
I would say to cycle the knobs once a year to keep the seals from seizing.
The last image looks like they had to step it down a size and really goo-ed it up. Compression fitting are supposed to not need tape or goo.
It’s hard to tell from the picture but does that Dahl valve have a plastic handwheel?
The picture of the cutout valve in the “hall bath” makes me think the flex hose fitting has bottomed out (or nearly) on the valve body, seems a bit strange. If you look at your other picture you can clearly see several threads still exposed and this is normal to me, not the final configuration on the hall bath, again not sure what was used (pipe thread vs machine thread) but it does look off.
Lastly, it appears that the valve in the last picture has a nylon valve stem, it could just be they way the picture was taken but if it is it doesn’t sound like a very good idea, just my two cents.
Dahl is awesome. BrassCraft is subpar and plasticky feeling. We had BC, and switched to Dahl and have been happy with the change. Our plumber also put dope on when installing the shutoffs b/c it helps the ferrule compress.
I am by no means an expert or in the trades but I think it’s worthwhile to talk about Sharkbite connections like these.
These connectors are SO fast and easy, assuming you have a clean connection. I’ve had compression fittings be finicky and leak but every SB that I have used has been bulletproof at installation.
Now onto the inevitable discussion about the longevity of sharkbite fittings.
I’ve never put a sharkbite in the wall, and would still hesitate, but I have seen and used many in accessible portions of basements. I have never experienced a failure unless the original connection was bad.
Is that blue tape has pipe Teflon tape?
+1 on SharkBites
Will slowly change over to sharkbite and pex tubing. I hate the “set length” hoses. Very easy to work with when you have the right tools.
The leak may be happening because of the pipe dope and or Teflon tape you have in both pics. Compression fittings don’t require either and when used can actually break the true seal and cause the leak. ( As do acme threaded fittings). The 1/2″ end going to the faucet shanks don’t require tape either because they have a seated rubber oring. If you’re going to replace the SS braided lines , I suggest Fluidmaster brand. For the supply valves, Dahl’s 1/4 ball valve like you have pictures is a good choice. Before you change out the valve though, try turning it off, cleaning the dope/ tape off, and tighten the packing nut (hex shaped nut behind the handle at base of stem) and that may stop the leak coming from the valve. You can always replace the supply lines with new ones, just clean the tape/dope off of the valves before reinstalling, because like I said, it doesn’t need it.
I came here to say this but it’s already been said.
We replaced a toilet about a year ago and just bought new supply line too from HD. I attached and turned on the valve and it leaked. Ok, no big deal, i went back switched it out and it happened again. At this point i figured I was somehow screwing up this mundane task but again i returned to HD and talked to an older gentleman working there. He said that it was quite common for them to not have a water tight seal and customers return them often. The third one worked just fine and still does. I will look elsewhere next time. They were all Brasscraft braided
Our house has PEX pipes and in several cases no shutoff valves. It only had the manifold in the downstairs closet that shutoff water throughout the house and exterior hose bibs. I couldn’t find shutoff valves for a vanity we replaced so we hired a plumber to finish the job and used SharkBite valves he pushed onto the PEX. Home Depot at that time didn’t carry much SharkBite and neither did Lowes or our local hardware chain City Mill which all 3 carry a huge selection now. I’ve added several Dahl shutoff valves to the toilet water closets and they’re works of art. Love it to they’re not made in china and in Canada.
Try Supply House for all your plumbing needs.
I used these guys for fittings for a remodel I did. 3 baths, kitchen, running PEX throughout the entire house. Everything I got from them is the highest quality and was by far the cheapest supplier.
These guys are great. If you aren’t in an emergency situation and can wait for the shipping they are the way to go. They do a better job of figuring out what you need over the phone than Lowe’s or HD do in person.
I no longer frequent supply houses, lowe’s, or HD for anything plumbing once I found Supplyhouse. Their hours and speed of shipping are superb and if you live near one of their warehouses you can pick up (on Sunday between 8 and 4 too!). They carry all of the better products (Dahl, Brasscraft quater turn ball valves, etc.) and their prices are literally the lowest around. They will put everyone else out of business.
On those water stops, if you use Brasscraft, don’t use anything but the 1/4 turn ball valve type. HD and Lowe’s don’t stock them. They carry the non ball valve plastic stem version. Supplyhouse has the higher end true ball valve version.
Dahl is by far the best manufacturer of stop. We’ve used them exclusively for 10 years. I won’t even touch a brasscraft unless I’m 100% certain it less than a year old.
Old compression ring ferrule can be removed with a ferrule removal tool, useful if your remaining copper pipe stub is already fairly short. And your don’t want to replace with a new piece.
Or if the original ferrule compression ring is the right size, just file down a bit the short length of copper pipe at the cut end. So the new valve can sit tight with the old ring (the little extra bit of copper pipe sucking out past the ring is mostly not needed, as the ring had already dug into the copper pipe). Clean up all that gunk the idiot plumber used. Compression fittings work based on the soft brass metal minutely deforming and forming a tight seal to the new valve. If the old compression ring is beat up with a bunch of scratches, use one or so winding of Teflon tape between ring and new valve to help things seal. And tighten up.
I second Johann’s recommendation about Sharkbite connections and fittings. I recently had to replace the valve at the wall of our guest-bath toilet and went with Sharkbite from Home Depot. My plumber friend recommended them and claims to use them at his own home.
The best luck I’ve had on electrical is pony up for commercial grade. No matter the brand the residential grade seems to suck.
I like to use pipe dope with my BC compression valves. A very modest swipe around the bevel where the ferrule meets the valve does wonders and does not compromise the seal whatsoever. A common misconception with compression fittings is that the threads are what makes a water tight seal which will certainly lead to people doping or taping the threads for no reason. I’ve used brass craft for years and years and have never been disappointed, especially with 1/4 turns
Based on the two levels of quality for fixtures (toilets, sinks, faucets) by the big brands (Kohler, Moen, Amercian Standard) at supply houses vs HD & Lowes, I assume that their other plumbing items are suspect as well.
[email protected] badco plbg in Florida
Brasscraft stop valves (compression type are all I use,made in USA,) on copper I use a little pipe dope on Ferrell (brass ring) on cpvc I wrap Ferrell with teflon tape and tighten on both pipes until I hear them squeak. Very tight.picture of your stop valve brass valve is cocked and not tightened onto pipe squarely. Suggest taking apart and wrapping Ferrell with at least 4 wraps of teflon tape.open valve all the way and then rotate handle counterclockwise just s little bit.and again in my opinion as a hands on master plumber
BRASSCRAFT IS THE BEST…
In New Jersey they use blue Teflon tape for flexible stainless steel stove or gas dryer look ups.
Wolverine Brass/PlumbMaster nothing but quality since1896. They offer everything plumbing, heating, and hydronics. Go to PlumbMaster.com
My $0.02 is that the more you buy at a local supply house the better. HD and Lowes buy bulk, and they get discounts, and they pay less, so they cost less! Ultimately there’s no substitute for a guy who has sold plumbing pets for 20 years.
I always try to buy brass fittings/valves with stainless balls for anything that gets buried in a wall or in a joist cavity. That includes fixtures. You’ll be amazed at the “feel” of a solid brass fixture vs a plastic HD model. Well worth the 20% or so premium a base level model costs vs the HD version.
Supplyhouse.com is AWESOME, and really has an amazing selection- if you know what you’re looking for.
I’m a fan of the tape/dope combo on any threaded fitting UNLESS there’s an O-ring. Dope and tape are not intended to “seal” the gap, but rather lubricate it so that you can tighten the fitting correctly. Overtightening anything with an O-ring is a recipe for a new O-ring on order….
For the folks recommending shark bites- I love them, and use them a lot… but only on visible or temporary installs. I’d be super worried about burying that in the wall. That being said I’ve never had a correctly installed shark bite leak, and have certainly seen plenty of traditional joints leak… so to each their own!
Being a plumber for over 30 years I DO NOT hi to the plumbing supply house unless I can’t find what I’m looking for anywhere else. They might have different brands than gone Depot or Lowe’s sometimes but they are overpriced for the SAME EXACT QUALITY! Believe me, I’ve been doing this FOR A LONG TIME!
That’s likely why so many of the local supply places have dried up. Some do offer more or specialized items – but unless you are negotiating a price for lots of material for a big job (e.g. hi-rise) the prices will kill you. One of our favorite suppliers was
because they carried much more than HD
Agreed! So often it’s the same stuff for more. The problem is they are building these things for their bottom line, not the life of your house. If you find a place with a better brand or model then, of course, get it, but have to be careful when it’s the same stuff in a different color box. I’ll often find the best product out there for a job to find it’s not carried in stores locally.
+1 for supplyhouse.com their selection, pricing, and customer service is unmatched!
I’ll throw in another vote for supplyhouse.com. I source most of my plumbing parts from them if I have a day or two. Great quality and price!
As for your local supplier, it really depends on the area and who they aim to serve. My local one does everything from residential stuff up to municipal grade. (Yeah, they stock fire hydrants) They beat Lowe’s/HD pricing on pretty much everything except fixtures, but they tend to carry high end ones. Quality seems to be part or slightly better on basic plumbing parts.
I like brasscraft valves, but as others have said, there is a commercial grade and a El cheapo grade. Never had an issue with the commercial ones. I’ll also use the inexpensive made in China Eastman valves from my local supplier and haven’t had an issue with them either when properly installed.
I wouldn’t cut the pipe unless it is obviously damaged. Get a heavy duty compression sleeve puller: my favorite is the LASCO 13-2704 (Amazon), but the Pasco 4661 (available from SupplyHouse) is good too. Avoid the faucet handle pullers they say they can pull a compression sleeve. If you’re in the market for another fun plumbing tool, the Ridgid One-Stop wrench is great for stop valves too.
Local plumber for anything in the house. For maybe $40-50 more i get all too of the line fittings in the whole bathroom, and all the free advice I need. They also do helpful things like having extra PVC cleaner and cement they let me use so I don’t have to buy new cans just to glue a few joints.
Exercising shut off valves yearly is a must…I have it on my calendar…inside and outside… always better to find a broken valve before you really need it.
Also…to those in earthquake country…know where your gas valve is and practice shutting off…
There is an independent plumbing supply company very close to my house. Their stuff is top notch. They also provide parking spaces for individual plumbers to park their trucks. Given the size of their building, I’m sure this is where area plumbers go. But every time I go there, no matter for a sump pump or just a fitting, I get the strongest impression that I’m being ripped off. I don’t have any proof, just a gut feeling. So I mostly go to Menards. At least I know what I’m getting.
I like the Fluidmaster PRO series of stainless steel hoses.
I always get them from http://www.supplyhouse,com which I’ve never had a bad experience. There packaging is always great and they ship promptly.
I live close enough to Columbus, OH that UPS Ground service arrives the next day
TO chime on a couple of things on here.
1) SS braided lines that I’ve bought recently and that I see in your pics have rubber orings in them and are meant to be put on to the fittings dry and without tape or dope etc. the SS nut on the end in theory won’t corrode onto brass and I’ve never run across that.
2) if I was to put tape on one of those connections it would only be on the threads and only one pass – and again only for corrosion concerns 20 years later.
3) that plastic shaft shut off valve – to a point up above. If you don’t turn them on and off over time between line deposits and the cold shrink age internally – they will break in the shaft which will then leak. SO that whole idea of turn off the water valves when you leave will save you issues later.
ON the supply house vs ___ vs. YOu can get quality stuffs nearly anywhere except home depot. I have had great luck with stuff I get at Lowes. I also like the parts I see at my local hardware store but they aren’t open certain days. Meanwhile there are 2 plumbing supply houses in my area for various stuff. One of them won’t sell to people without a license so they can close for all I care. The other does a decent job but the big issue is they will always be more than Lowes for equal stuff until you buy 10 or more depending on the item. Of that I like Lowes. But I suspect a lot of that is area specific.
However it sounds more like your issue is your faucet since you said it felt funny. Is there an actual leak? Didn’t look like there was one. but maybe there is. I’ve seen modern cartridge seal faucets leak with infrequent use. So perhaps this is an issue.
braided lines with black spots. Some grades of SS or alloys can have surface corrosion and it will be black. This is often from the nickel content and it’s a surface conditions. Really high quality, clean SS is passivated before final assembly or after. Passivization is a process of cleaning the SS parts with a nitric acid solution and it’s purpose is to “burn off” free nickel and other elements on the surface that are out of solution. I’m not a metallurgical chemist but think of it as once the SS is made it’s a soup of elements (this is true of all alloys) and in that soup after other processes some of the elements are left unbonded. So left free they will attract oxides and oxidize leaving cosmetic blemishes. This is what passivization fixes.
With a braided hose short of passivating the braid itself without the hose it would be difficult. The other option is to use a higher corrosion resistance SS alloy like 318 or such. Which you can find in other uses. for a hose that is PTFE coated rubber and the mesh is there to help the hose hold pressure without expansion. at grade like 278 or 294 is more than plenty. I suspect 304 is the most common.
Too Long – Didn’t read version – those black spots don’t mean anything to the structural or hydraulic stability of those hoses. I wouldn’t worry about it.
Personally, and I may be in the minority here, but when I need to replace these, I get whatever I can find at my local Menards or Ace and make sure it’s a SWEAT fitting. I know they’re everywhere but I’ve never been a fan of compression fittings.
Shark-bite ball valves for fixture connections.
they slide on like a breeze and can be rotated to eliminate kinks in the hoses…
never ever had one leak or flake like your pictures.
I agree Matt. Why make a simple repair complicated. Shove it in the supply pipe, attach the faucet supply hose on the other and call it a day.
I love ready all these stories from pretend to be plumbers. I’m a general builder that has used brass craft quarter turn shut offs and braided lines supplied by lowes and home depot, and I can honestly say I have never had a problem. We use half inch Male adapters copper to 3/8 compression. We just finished a bathroom that was started by another contractor, that was fired for numerous reasons, including using press fittings that leaked to cause major damage to this customer’s house. It’s your choice, choose wisely. The damage was financially rewarding for me .
(actual plumber) it looks like the dope that put on that compression fitting used PTFE tape or something similar in it which is completely un nessecary. Isolate the water, and remove the fitting (it may be a pain to remove the olive from the pipe but DO NOT CUT THAT PIPE STUB) if its stubborn you may find yourself having to slide a small hacksaw blade or something in to cut partially through the existing olive before you can get it off, be very careful not to damage the pipe doing this, take it slow and don’t rush.
Out of the 80 shut-off valves (90% 1/4 turn Brasscraft and 10% Nibco) that I’ve replaced in the past ten years, only two didn’t meet my expectations, and that’s because the plastic in the “solder” fitting melted during installation. Unless permitted by the manufacturer, I would never use pipe dope or Teflon tape on compression fittings for copper pipe. It could prevent the nut from fully compressing the ferrule to the valve. That is what surmise that the corrosion came from your posted picture
I am a contractor an do renovations for a living supply house .com is an excellent source for plumbing and heating supplies and they have a pretty good website with lots of info.
Agreed,. Supply house.com is great and knowledgeable staff on hand for ??. They’ve helped me at work source some info and things and were probably more helpful than manufacturer.
Never, ever buy plumbing parts/supplies from stores like home depot, Lowes, acme, etc… Also get friendly with a local plumber (pro) if possible. When I took my current job, I quickly befriended the plumber used for larger projects and build outs. He always hooks me up with any parts I may need or puts me in touch with the local suppliers that will make sure you get what you need. He also has the best job site stories, usually pretty disgusting, but always hilarious.
Great discussion! I love this article for a couple of reasons. 1. A knowledgeable discussion that includes higher quality options on parts for jobs we all hate to do. 2. Great recommendations of professional quality specialty tools to make the jobs easier.
I wholeheartedly concur with Stuart’s closing comment, “I love designing and building new fabrications. Fixing things drives my blood pressure way up.”
I didn’t see it in comments but I wouldn’t recommend the plumber who did that the first time. Supply hoses have rubber seals which seal between the faces of the hose and pipe or essentially small nipple on the stop valve. Same as a garden hose. The threads just hold the two surfaces together. They aren’t tapered threads. On the one with white/yellow dopeThey put Teflon tape on this which just makes it harder to tighten the threads and get a proper seal. Same with most tubular drain fittings. Some pipe dope will help lubricate and seal imperfections or irregularities but doesn’t add much bulk. Need to be careful with dope it doesn’t get in water supply, Can clog small holes in aerators and such.
If it’s not a tapered pipe thread it probably shouldn’t have Teflon tape. Flare fittings same concept,. Straight thread.
Ive had good luck with sharkbites under sink. Usually replacing an older leaking valve. The key is proper prep though. Making sure the pipe is very clean, smooth, and deburred. With old pipes I usually wipe with isopropyl to remove old gunk, and use a very fine emery cloth to polish the end of the pipe up. I usually also use a deburring tool on the exterior of the pipe to chamfer the end, especially if I cut it because pipe cutters leave a burr that can damage the oring in a sharkbite.
They are great but poor prep can compromise them.
I do not like compression fittings.
I do not use anything but quarter turn shut offs because they work as a ball valve.
Multi turn shutoffs are stop valves with a rubber washer that WILL fail.
Solder when at all possible.
Preventing leaks and water quality are more important than brand.
Prep your copper really well before attaching any fitting (Sand, remove irregularities, make sure it’s round, etc.).
Turn off main supply before using a shutoff under a sink to stop the water (Don’t rely on a valve that has sat there for a decade, or longer, to suddenly fully function).
DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE OR PIPE DOPE ON A FITTING NOT DESIGNED FOR IT (Compression, flared, etc).
Hand tighten until unable and then quarter turn with a wrench is plenty tight where washers are concerned (supply lines).
Stainless Steel flex lines are only beneficial over the white ones in cases of pests chewing up lines or for aesthetics.
If you see a leak, turn off the system, release pressure and redo the leaking fitting, do not just tighten a fitting more while the system is pressurized.
If pipe dope is used, only use it upstream of a valve as the pipe dope can make it’s way into the fitting and cause a clog.
After working on any part of your system, always remove the strainer of the faucet upstream of the work (pieces of debris/rust/minerals will flow through).
Most of this is learned through experience, but hope it’s helpful.
I second Roberts comment… I always sweat fit the valve body. Over time if it fails to fully seal or leaks around the shaft I will remove the core, clean the seat with fine Scotchbrite then swap out the core. Its not that I don’t trust the compression and sharkbites as much as I don’t trust the homeowner who has his buddy come over to help him “quick fix” the valve by muscling it closed the wrong way.
For odds & ends I use HD/Lowes as needed. But for a large project (i replaced ALL my house’s antiquated plumbing with PEX ) i went with Supplyhouse.com. Great customer service, lots of online help and prices beat amazon. Wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Supplyhouse.com.
Actually went with a full PEX manifold and having to do rework in one of the bathrooms is so easy to turn off a single room. Cost was pretty reasonable, wish i had done this years before. I didn’t buy my PEX crimper from them and wish I had bought separate 3/8″ & 1/2″ crimper i bought. It works but individual crimpers would have been more useful in some of the places where you need to put a crimp. 3 years later and i haven’t had a single crimp fail or any leaks. I think if i had gone copper it would have been at least 3-4x the cost.
I thought of two things i wanted to add to my post above. My house was built in 1949 so the supply lines were all galvanized & Waste mostly cast iron. After i cut out all the galvanized i examined the lines. It was gross! Much blockage of the lines meant reduced flow and that was the first thing that was noticed after replacement was how much better it was after PEX replacement. PEX is so easy to deal with. I used crimp connections but my plumber uses Uponor piping & these stretch type PEX connections. 95 % of my PEX connections were in the basement so I can see all the connections and see if there were any problems.
Cast iron drain pipes are much quieter than PVC but are a pain to deal with being so heavy. They do leak after an extended period of time. If you wrap some of the PVC main drain lines in the wall with insulation it eliminates hearing the sound of a flush in the bathroom upstairs. Glad i took that extra step. My plumber did the majority of cast iron replacement for me which was good since some of those pieces replaced were massive.
Just placed my first supplyhouse.com order this morning for some pex and fittings. They have a 6% off coupon today only.
Alexis K. Stephens
The break might be occurring a direct result of the channel dope or potentially Teflon tape you have in the two pics. Pressure fittings don’t require either and when utilized can really break the genuine seal and cause the hole. ( As do top strung fittings). The 1/2″ end-setting off to the fixture shanks don’t require tape either in light of the fact that they have a situated elastic oring. In case you will supplant the SS interlaced lines , I propose the Fluidmaster brand. For the stockpile valves, Dahl’s 1/4 ball valve like you have pictures is a decent decision.