Redcastle brought up a great idea, asking for a Hall of Fame type of post that discusses the best of the best tools that we – and you guys also – can recommend.
Such a list, he proposed, could focus on tools that carry out their function well and will do so over a long period of time with function always outranking form.
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It has been a long-term goal of mine to create a “Tool Guide” that discusses the best options of each tool category, but it keeps getting away from me. I do test different formats every now and then – for instance: Best Precision Screwdrivers, Let’s Talk About Long Nose Pliers, Best Multi-Bit Screwdrivers?, but it’s still hard to break up the “big picture” plan into workable chunks.
I had attempted a quick and condensed guide back in 2014, and there have been a couple of requests for that list to be updated.
Rather than delay things further, let’s get the conversation started. I’ll follow the same approach as before, putting down my recommendations as fast as they come to mind. Do your recommendations differ? Let’s talk about it!
(See Also: If I Lost All My Tools, Which Brands Would I Pick for Replacements?)
If I were building a fully featured tool kit today, these are the tools and brands I’d fill my box with.
Hand Tools
Hammers
Ball Pein: Vaughan
Claw or Framing: Estwing
Dead Blow: Nupla
Mallet: Estwing
Screwdrivers
General Purpose: Tekton (Good), Wera (Better), Proto (Best)
Torx: PB Swiss
Ball Hex: Bondhus, Bahco (formerly Irazola, and unfortunately metric-only)
T-Handle: Bondhus
Hex Keys: Bondhus (Good), PB Swiss (Best)
Precision: Wiha, PB Swiss
Insert Bits: Apex, PB Swiss
Pliers
General Purpose: Channellock (Good), NWS (Better)
Diagonal Cutters: NWS
Wire Strippers: Stride, Klein
Precision Pliers and Cutters: Xuron (Good), Lindstrom (Better), Tronex (Best)
Locking Pliers: Milwaukee (Good), Grip-on (Better)
Adjustable Pliers: Irwin (Good), Knipex (Best)
Adjustable Wrench
Channellock/Irega
Specialty: Knipex (Pliers Wrench)
Electrical Tools
Test Equipment: Fluke
Soldering Irons: Hakko
Wrenches
Combination: Facom
Ratcheting: Proto
More Budget-Friendly: Gearwrench
Ratchets
Gearwrench (Good), Wera (Better), Proto (Best)
Sockets
Gearwrench (Good), Tekton (Good), Wera (Better, but Shallow)
Mechanics Tool Set
Wera
Best bang for the buck: ??? TBD (Update: Maybe Husky)
LED Flashlights
General Purpose: Husky
Multi-Tools
Leatherman
Folding Knives
Spyderco (if I had to pick just one, it’d be a Para 3)
Utility Knives
Retractable: Milwaukee
Folding: Milwaukee
Blades: Dewalt carbide
Measuring Tools
Tape Measure: Milwaukee
Calipers: Mitutoyo
Micrometers: Mitutoyo
Dial Indicator: Interapid
Rulers: Mitutoyo (precision), Woodpeckers (woodworking)
Squares: Empire, Woodpeckers
Power Tools
Drill: Dewalt (18V class), Bosch (12V class)
Impact Driver: Hitachi
Circular Saw: Festool
Reciprocating Saw: TBD
Portable Table Saw: Dewalt
Dust Extractor Vacuum: Festool
Tool Storage
Ball Bearing Drawer Unit: Husky (Good), Proto (Best)
Modular Tool Box System: Dewalt
Parts Organizers: Akro Mils
Parts Drawers: Sortimo
Tool Bags: Husky, Milwaukee, Veto Pro Pac (Readers’ Choice)
Power Tool Accessories
Impact Bits: Bosch, Milwaukee
Drill Bits: Precision Twist, Triumph
Brad Drill Bits: Lee Valley Veritas
Spade Bits: Bosch Daredevil
Forstner Drill Bits: Freud
Nut Driver Bits: Milwaukee
Circular Saw Blades: Diablo, Freud
Reciprocating Saw Blades: Milwaukee
Air Tools and Nailers
Compressor: Rolair, (I’ve been meaning to try California Air Tool’s quiet compressors)
Air Nailers: Hitachi
Air Hose: Hitachi, Coilhose, Flexzilla
Fittings: Legacy
Cordless Compressor: Dewalt
Personal Safety
Goggles: Uvex
Hearing: 3M
Respirators: 3M
Disposable Gloves: Kimberly Clark, Microflex
Work Gloves: TBD
Missing Categories?
There are specialty categories to get into, such as woodworking and metalworking, but did I leave out any general categories?
Painter’s Tool: Hyde?
Demo Screwdriver: Milwaukee? (My favorites are a Made in England FatMax 2pc set, but you can’t buy them anymore.)
Aviation Snips: Midwest Tool
Levels: Empire
Scissors: Milwaukee, Wiss
Clamps: Bessey (parallel for woodworking), others TBD
Punches: PB Swiss (limited selection), Tekton, Dasco, Mayhew (smaller sizes might need to be inspected first based on observations at 2 local stores)
Cold Chisels: Dasco
Nail Puller: Vaughan, Shark
Wayne R.
How’s Veto Pro missing from the Tool Bags list? A No-Brainer for me…gotta be there.
I’ve got two of them, outfitted with tools that I rely on and find perfectly satisfactory, always reliable, never a problem. And only a few of them show up above. A lot of Klein drivers, too.
Ought to add Power Bits in there too – almost all of mine are Wiha.
Stuart
I was iffy about including it this time around.
For power bits do you mean hardened or impact-rated? I’ve found that I use impact bits for anything power tool related, and insert bits or proprietary “blades” for handheld drivers. There are a handful of long driver bits I use for special purposes, such as driving in pocket holes or drawer locking device screws.
Wayne R.
I try to be equipped with power bits to use on anything, with either just a simple handle, a 10v Bosch impact up to a 20V driver. Almost every screw I turn is a machine screw – rarely wood.
My preference is 4-6″ length power bits.
This scheme gives me a lot of flexibility without necessarily carrying a lot of “handle weight”.
Zach
You are missing Veto Pro Pac for best tool bag – in my opinion there are none better. Built incredibly well.
Eric
Agreed, I used to buy CLC tool bags annually until I bought a Veto Pro Pak. I’ve been using the Veto for 4 years now and haven’t had one problem.
Jim Felt
My oldest is from the month Fine Homebuilding mag ran the first Veto ad or write up. Maybe both.
Maybe 15-18 years ago?
I called the inventor to order mine that very day and still use that bag and we’ve several others as well. Never wrecked one yet.
Tom
I think that I would add Flexzilla to the list for air hoses. I’d also like to hear your opinion on hose reels. The prices vary so much. I wonder whether it is worth it to get an expensive one.
I would also add Knipex under some of the pliers categories since they are way easier to source than NWS.
You might also want to add a line for ratcheting wrenches.
Stuart
Thanks! I forgot about Flexzilla. I like that you can use their fittings to create custom length hoses, or repair damaged ones.
I’ve got Proto down for ratcheting wrenches.
Knipex is easier to source than NWS, but if I had to pick one, it’d be NWS. They’re pretty even with each other, but I felt the need to choose.
AC
Cool list.
GVS Eclipse respirator has eclipsed 3M in form and comfort in my opinion.
Also, what do you think about Wera, Wiha or Felo impact bits and such? Even if alloys are all the same, manufacting precision seems to be better.
David
I completely agree on the Eclipse. I’m still likely to go with 3M for specialty purposes, but for dust and most shop tasks, the Eclipse wins every day.
Tom
I’ve been thinking about what my favorite tool is since I first read this post. I think that one of the most indispensable things that I have is the Kreg Rip-Cut. I’ve cut hundreds of feet of plywood with that simple power tool accessory. Yes, it isn’t a track saw, but it give you so much precision with just a simple circular saw. I think that I would add that under “Power Tool Accessories”.
Hilton
Agreed. I bought mine and I couldn’t have laid down my laminate flooring without it. I don’t have one of those ‘snap’ devices that the pros use for cutting flooring and it worked perfectly with my Makita 18v Circular Saw.
satch
Wow. A big template to fill. So I will only go with a few.
Pliers:
Linesman/Combination; Knipex 02 05 225
Long Nose; Knipex 38 15 200(no cutters)*
Long Nose; Klein D203-8(w/cutters)*
Wire strippers; Klein-Kurve 11055
Diagonal Cutters; Klein D2000-48 Angle Head
*Long nose pliers such a wide category it is hard to make blanket statement. This regards typical electricians/HVAC usage.
Screwdrivers:
General Use; Tie between Wera Kraftform or Wiha
Precision; Wera Micro
Heavy Duty/Demo/Prying; Klein
Utility Knife:
DeWalt. Any of their angle handled aluminium models with plastic
overmoulding.
Soft Tool Storage:
Bags; Veto Pro Pac
Pouches; Ergodyne(too varied a category to nail down. Ergo
met my electrical/maintenance needs perfectly)
Torch/Flashlight:
Coast. Not because they are the ultimate quality but because
they provide good quality and illumination at a price point that
does not make you cringe when it gets nicked at work or you
drop it down a wall opening.
Kenneth Stephens
I’m a proto guy through and through, but for screwdrivers I love my wood handles Felo drivers
csroc
Big fan of the Felo drivers as well, and they’re extremely reasonably priced.
Corey
I’ve had Diablo Freud’s recip blades outlast and out perform Milwaukee’s blades for as long as I can remember, including the torch.
Tom A.
Absolutely. My company sells Diablo, Milwaukee, Lenox, Ridgid, DeWalt, pretty much every blade on the market and nothing comes close to Diablo for longevity and retention. We’ve done several field tests across the board and nothing on the market compares to Diablo, and the price point is almost equal to every other blade as well.
AlexV
For hex keys, have you considered the Wera hex plus?
I was under the impression that their unique profile made them the best available because they won’t damage fasteners. I love my color coded + holding function set.
Eric
Agreed. I haven’t used an PB Swiss hex keys so maybe I’m missing out. But I have both Bondhus and Wera, and I’ll go for the Wera every time. Hell I’ll go out of my way to get the Wera keys when the fasteners look like they might give me problems.
Gordon
For framing and finish hammers it has to be Martinez for me. I’ve swung a lot of hammers over the years, and while I like Stilletos because they’re so light weight, I hated how quickly the face got mangled. My new Martinez instantly felt like a hammer that I had been using my whole life.
For mechanics tools, I really like the Tekton sets. I think their 84 piece 1/2in drive set is the most complete, do all set you’ll find. It has shallow and deep sockets for every size from 10 to 32mm and 5/8 to 1-5/16in. Plus a breaker bar, extensions, and flex adapters. I like it because it doesn’t artificially inflate the number of pieces with crap you’ll never use. Husky is a decent alternative to Tekton, but they tend to do this. Their 268 piece set contains “77 other tools.” There is also no overlap with the Tekton set. You won’t find 4 of the same sized socket in different drives and both 6 and 12 point. I would pair it with a set of Metric and SAE end wrenches.
JoeM
…Wow… I have NONE of these…
Best Rotary: Dremel. Exception: Model 4200, Gimmick Autoload feature solved no one’s problem with the wrench.
Best Oscillating Tool? For Ergonomics, DeWALT. For Versatility… YIKES there’s a lot to choose from!
Best HOUSE BRAND… That’ll keep people arguing for decades… Canada: Mastercraft, USA: Ryobi, unless ToolGuyd readers disagree. (They Will.)
Best DUCT TAPE BRAND! That may require an entire article to itself, and a full on examination and experimentation done by Stuart… AKA Stuart gets a valid reason to go out and both buy AND PLAY WITH Duct Tape of all sorts.
EDC SCISSORS!!! Then we could see if the Engineer Scissors face the Leatherman Raptor as well as we think! I have both, so I’m biased. Someone else should examine this one.
Other than that, now you have me trying to source Canadian retailers for Proto and Wiha again. Didn’t think I needed to upgrade from my Stanley sockets, or Mastercraft precision screwdriver set with the lifetime warranty.
fred
Engineer scissors vs Raptor? I bought both as gifts – and tried them myself. Neither are a perfect match to my big mitts. My wife and daughter like them. Just another reason why its nice to try tools out before you buy.
JoeM
Oh, don’t worry fred. I’m just having a little fun with the topic. Both scissors fit my hands okay, but nothing’s perfect. At the same time I carry a Leatherman Wave, Surge, and both Style CS and PS on my belt. So, I have another 4 pair of scissors on me at all times. I don’t think an actual category for EDC scissors is necessary for the list. I’m just having some fun with Stuart’s love of the Engineer scissors, and everyone who loves the Raptor.
I’m LITERALLY just playing with the topic. Looking down the list, I can’t find a single category or choice I can legally source in Canada, let alone agree with their rank on the list. So, my suggestions are just for a laugh.
Stuart
Your memory is dangerous! =)
I’d rank the Engineer scissors above the Raptor for EDC use, simply because you can pass them to someone and they’ll be able to use it right away.
Best duct tape? I like Duck brand. Gorilla tape is stickier, but smellier.
JoeM
It’s alright, Stuart. I wasn’t serious about my post. Just noticing that I own literally zero of your recommended items in the categories you’ve got up there. And when I looked them up? I hit Proto at blackrocktools.com (Canadian online retailer owned and managed by Acklands Grainger) and was suddenly overwhelmed by the urge to cross myself for protection. Here’s the thing… I’m Half Native American, and Half Jewish. I have NO IDEA why I crossed myself.
But, you DO get your revenge. I saw the “1258 Piece Master Set with Workstation” and realized… I’m quite happy with my Stanley Black Chrome set that I DIDN’T have to pay $32000 for. In fact, I think I paid $85 for it, on sale.
As for the Engineer versus the Raptor… I own both, so I don’t have to choose. I have so many Multitools on my belt I rarely need scissors of that class, except on projects. And on those projects, both have come in handy for various reasons and strengths/weaknesses.
And, let’s face it… I only posted the thing about the Duct Tape because… Don’t we ALL love an excuse to play with the stuff? Not a single serious tone is being taken on this thread with me. I’m completely joking around with everyone, and keeping it light.
Stuart
Here, maybe this will hurt your wallet some: https://toolguyd.com/ultimate-tool-gift-guide/ Take that! =)
JoeM
I remember that one! It needs serious updating… not to bring up old wounds, but some of those items, and the companies that sold them no longer exist. 😉
STILL FUN THOUGH!
Matthew
A lot of these feel more like wish lists than “does it do what it’s supposed to” like Redcastle asked. I’ve got a wish list too but there’s a delicate balance I have to do with function/price/form in that order.
I have Gearwrench ratcheting wrenches (non-reversible) that hit the sweet spot of function, ergonomics, price.
I have some house brand (Lowes, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool) combination wrenches that have served well but will look to upgrade in time.
I have a fair amount of Ryobi cordless drill/impact driver accessories that do their job really well for their price point. I ended up with these after my DeWalt accessories had been consumed/pilfered over time and didn’t want to break the bank on DeWalt/Milwaukee/Bosch sets or wait for Black Friday deals.
Give me a few grand and I’d just order a new GMTK from Armstrong and call it a day on almost all of my hand tools.
For cordless power tools each of the major non-house brands (with apologies to the improving quality power tools available from Rigid/Ryobi/Kobalt) have quality products so I’d just go with one that is readily available with good access to a service center in your location. I went with DeWalt because I can get them at several local outlets and there’s a service center locally and another 2 hours away.
Matthew
I don’t know why this posted as a reply, it was supposed to to at the bottom…
Frank
I think you should pick up some Gedore pattern 7 combination wrenches to try. They’re very lightweight but comfortable and very well made. They make ratcheting and reversible ratcheting versions of the same pattern but they’re a bit spendy (in the same ballpark as Proto). Probably my favorite wrenches.
Your taste on sockets is a bit basic too, try some Gedore or Stahlwille. Hazet is nice too but very pricey.
John S
Try other blades. Tenryu is one of the top blade manufacturers in the world, better than Forrest, better than Freud. Carbide Processors makes high end blades to order that destroy Freud. Ridge Carbide comes to mind as a top blade maker. There is more out there than what Home Depot and Lowes sell.
Kinex out of Czech Republic makes squares with accuracy down to one ten thousandth inch at prices below Woodpeckers.
Shars Aventor digital calipers can rival Mitutoyo.
Bormax forstner bits over Freud.
fred
We had good experience with Tenryu MP-30580AB (12inch-80T) blades – but I don’t recall that the guys thought that they were better than Forrest Chopmaster blades. For some cuts we’d go to the 100T Forrest Mitermaster blades. We also used Forrest’s sharpening service. Re the Tenryu blades – when I was buying them they were made in Japan – and were as top notch. Have you had experience with them since production has been moved to China?
I can also recommend Carbide Processors – we had their blades (scoring and main blade) on our sliding table saw in the cabinet shop – and they were excellent through many re-sharpenings.
RKA
Some of the tenryu blades are still made in Japan. I’ve heard mixed reviews on the China stuff, but terrific feedback on the Japan blades.
fred
I also agree that the German-made Famag-Bormax – Forstner bits are superior (faster cleaner cutting over a longer period) to their more ubiquitous Freud counterparts (made in Italy). Another brand we likes was Fisch (made in Austria.)
Famag makes several different types of Forstner bits:
https://www.famag.com/EN/Home/Products?pri=4adff66a-7c83-48a7-be20-4dcf458682df
Ian M
Adjustable wrench – Bahco wide mouth
Tape Measure – Komelom Inox, you could keep this in a bucket of water and it would still work
Charlie
I miss my K12 Cutawl. Best tool ever. It did what nothing else could do at that time.
DannyK
Some of my favorite are:
HAND TOOLS
* Mallet: VAUGHAN Soft Face 12 oz. Smoothed Face Rubber Mallet
* Pry bars: VAUGHAN 21-in Steel Indexable Pry Bar; Harbor Freight 4 Pc Heavy Duty Pry Bar Set; Stanley Wrecking Bar
* Painter multi tool
* Speed square: Swanson
* Punch: Dasco Pro Pin Punch Set
* Pliers: Knipex plier wrench, cobra, needle noses; NWS Fantastico; Klein linesman
* Wrenches: Gearwrench reversible ratcheting wrenches
* Clamp: Bessey
* Screwdrivers: Klein & Wera, esp. Wera ratcheting screwdriver RA 27; Wiha precision bits & mini ratchet set
POWER TOOLS
* Cordless: drill / impact / circular saw / reciprocating saw (regular & hackzall) / grinder / oscillating tool / ROS / rotary hammer / finish nailer / framing nailer / work light
* Corded: Dewalt 780 miter saw; router; table saw
CONSUMABLES
* Dixon REACH Permanent Marker
* Cle-line drill bits
* SDS drill bits: Dewalt 4-prong
* Mirka random orbit sand disk
* Hole saws: Lenox bi-metal; Spyder carbide-tip
* Paint brush: Whizz for fine application; dollar store brushes for rough work
* Sunex impact sockets
ktash
Dixon reach also has a pencil, packaged with long reach leads. I’ve gone to this over the marker because pencil is easier to take off wood than a permanent marker.
DannyK
Cool. Will get one for sure.
MT_Noob
I’ll second the mention of a painters 5 in 1 or 7 in 1 multi tool. I only got one recently, but I now firmly believe that it should be part of every tool kit. It is inexpensive so it can do light prying, light scraping, light hammering with the handle… built in bottle opener.
Under screwdrivers I’d add either a nice new “demolition” screwdriver or an old flat head dedicated to prying, chiseling and levering.
Stuart
Thanks! I’m still trying to pick a favorite 5-in-1 painter’s tool.
As for demo screwdrivers, I love my FatMax (made in England). I have a backup set somewhere, still in the packaging. I guess I’d look closer at Milwaukee if I had to buy new.
Paul C
I didn’t see drill bits. Lately I’ve been buying the American made (Viking is one name but there seem to be several retailers of the same bits) set that comes in sort of a coffee cup looking thing with a screw on sealed lid which keeps the bits nice and dry. Available from Zoro, Amazon, etc. Now advice from my college shop instructor on drill bits. Keep in mind this is advice for steel. If all you drill is wood, buy any old cheap stuff at the local big box store.
1. Do not buy ANYTHING gold colored (TiN). In 99% of cases this is a huge tip off that it’s a junk drill bit with a pretty colored way-too-thin coating on it. In fact as a general rule don’t buy anything coated at all. This automatically screens out everything sold at big box stores.
2. Buy jobber length drill bits. This basically means “bread and butter” to a machine shop purchasing agent and screens off the professional grade bits from everything else.
3. Buy American. Noting against Asian manufacturing, just Asian quality control. I’ve had great success lately with a little plastic “coffee cup” looking bit holder with a rubber gasket seal with names on it like Viking that advertise they are American made, jobber length. Yes it’s “only” high speed steel. But it will beat the pants off anything that didn’t pass rule #1.
4. If you don’t sharpen your own, buy 135 degree points. They are slower but last far longer. If you sharpen your own, you have choices between speed and resharpening time.
5. Nothing to do with the material itself but SLOW DOWN. 99% of bits fail quickly because guys use the exact same speed. The right speed is the slowest speed you can go without it chattering. If it’s screaming at you, you should be crying as your beautiful tool steel melts and becomes junk or shatters. At 1/8″ on wood that means nearly 10,000 RPM but on stainless you’re down to under 1500 RPM. That’s around mid range for a lot of cordless drills so no real problems here. Switch that out for a 1/2″ bit and on wood you’re still looking at 2200 RPM so you can still set it on high speed, hold the trigger all the way down and go to town. On stainless you’re down to under 400 RPM so you need to be feathering it as much as you can and it’s still very hard to run that slow while avoiding chattering and ripping up the drill.
John
I think your right about the TiN coated stuff!
JoeM
For some reason, my TiN coated Mastercraft stuff from Canadian Tire seem to outlast everything else I have. Otherwise, I totally agree that TiN coated bits have been greatly overshadowed by Carbide, and Diamond, consumables.
As to the “Buy American” sentiment… Uh… No. Thanks to some bad Politics, Canadians are about to start paying three times what we used to, just to get American Made anything. You know who’s Canadian? Veritas by Lee Valley. THEIR HSS and HCS steel bits WILL beat your “American Made” bits easily, and we don’t have to Import them to get them up North here. Say what you want for imported goods from overseas, but quite often they’re the only source not crippled by bad Politics.
Kevin
I bought some of the Lee Valley replacement drill bits in the smaller sizes to complete sets that had broken bits. They work very well. Some of the brad-point drills are shaped and sharpened from American sourced drills.
The Restorer’s Cat’s Paws bars at Lee Valley are made in Japan and as stated in the description they are ‘Excellent tool value’.
Stuart
Yep, those are the ones I’m talking about!
aerodawg
For drill bits, just don’t buy Chinese. Whatever those bits are made of it ain’t HSS. I’ve personally had good luck with Hertel cobalt, 135* bits with TiAlN coating as of late.
Reed Prince
I’ll add a few Japanese favorites.
Ratchets and sockets: KTC and Nepros
Screwdrivers: Vessel
Adjustable wrenches: TOP and Lobster
Heavy duty scissors: Kai 7000 series
Pliers: Keiba
fred
One of my favorites from Japan is this offset scissors:
https://www.amazon.com/ALLEX-Super-scissors-Stainless-Scissors/dp/B001M0E5YO/
Other quality Japanese makers include:
ARS – garden shears
Blazer – hobby torches
Hakko – soldering tools
Hit – bolt cutters
Hozan – bicycle tools
Iwasaki – files and rasps
Ko-Ken – socket wrenches
MCC – threaded rod tools
Nisaku – scrapers
NT Cutter – staple pullers – strap cutters
Olfa – hobby knives
Shimano – bicycle tools
Silky – the best pruning saws
Wood Owl – auger bits
DannyK
Cool list. I want to add Engineers. I love their scissors.
fred
Yes – both Engineer and Vessel – would have been on my list had they not been mentioned earlier in the post
D
Vessel screwdrivers are my favourites, especially the 220 ball grip series
Wayne R.
Those cutters look like Kitchen Aviation snips. I think I need some.
Stuart
Ditto.
Greg
Torque wrenches ? I have Tekton in the “budget” category
DannyK
CDI and Precision Instrument beam torque wrenches are on my shopping list
JoeM
I agree, Greg. Thing is, Tekton does some tools where “Budget” is all you really need. They have this “Lighted Inspection Mirror” that I bought for a grand total of $5 CAD, and I gave it to my Mother, who has some mobility issues. Yes, it’s Tekton, no, it wasn’t expensive, but it has been totally invaluable to her remaining as independent as possible. If a pill, or a coin, or anything falls under the edge of the couch, or the coffee table, she can just pull out that $5 inspection mirror, and find it. And I bought my Dad a pair of their 11″ long reach pliers to go fishing with. Unfortunately he passed away before he got a chance to use them, so now they’re with me again, and I use it to unclog hair from sink and tub drains without having to strain myself. THEY were all of $7 CAD.
So, yeah, Tekton is definitely in the “Budget” category. It doesn’t mean they don’t do some really simple stuff, really, really, well. Sometimes these budget brands surprise us all by making something better than the more expensive brands make that same thing. And it’s not because “It’s Tekton, and Tekton is #1 in the world!” like some other brands might claim for themselves. It’s because Tekton makes THAT rare tool somehow freakishly better than it is expected from Tekton.
William Adams
Just bought a tiny Sturtevant Richmont torque wrench — incredibly cute and amazingly well-manufactured.
ktash
Razorsaw Ryoba Saw – Gyokucho From Japanwoodworker and Woodcraft, Reasonably priced quality. Other Japanese saws from this brand, too.
For Tracksaws, the GRS-16 square from TSO products. It may seem ridiculously overpriced, but if all my tools got lost, this would be in the first ten I’d buy. Makes square cuts effortlessly and at least as perfectly square as a table saw. Unlike any other tracksaw square. Setup time is less than 1 minute. (Since the Kreg Ripcut was mentioned, )
This is a great resource list, Stuart and commenters!
fred
I have a Woodpeckers track square (a one time tool – $100). It can do 90 and 45 degrees – but I think the GRS-16 looks like it might be better.
ktash
I read/watched a bunch of reviews, Fred. I remember someone saying that the Woodpecker square was much more fiddly than this square. No source, but it stuck with me because the Woodpecker one looks closer in design than many of the other squares.
fred
Exactly. You need to set the Woodpeckers against a known true square and then lock it down with knob-screws. Then if you use it a lot – it can still shift – needing to be reset.
ktash
Yes, the GRS-16 square will never shift and if it does it’s a defect (not a feature). They will replace it since they have a lifetime warranty.
Frank D
No links to specific tools??
;P
I think the one thing with some of these tools that is lacking is value. This winter I will try to condense some tools to make a primary tool kit, like I used to have … but a lot of my stuff is 1/2 1/3 1/4 the price.
John
As Orchardists in the far flung regions of Thailand with no quality tool stores nearby we just buy the best we can get, but when it comes to PPE I mail order 3M respirators, cartridges and suits as I am not going to compromise on our health.
This thread could go on forever with so many different opinions!
RKA
One clarification, for the Festool saw, I would list track saw assuming you were talking about your TS55REQ. A traditional circular saw is a different tool imho.
DT
Facom 170A pliers are top shelf and probably better than the Knipex alligators. I would also add that the Facom locking pliers (501 AMP and similar) are in a class of their own as well.
Mike S
I think that a “list of tools” – should list specific tools. This is more of a list of “brands of tool types”. And really, I think that the most value would come from – here’s what I recommend as your tool set for a total budget of: $x; $y; $z (so, different lists for different total investments). Lists like these might be more beneficial to people with few or no tools – but, those people maybe need the most direction. Listing brands is better for people that already have an idea of what they need and where to look.
So – being critical – this is not a “best toolkit” post at all. I’d really like to see that type of post. This post is useful, but its incorrectly labeled and misleading, and therefore disappointing.
Matt
This post was not misleading or mislabeled, it just didn’t meet your expectations. I’d be willing to wager that most of the readers find this type of post more beneficial than a list of tools that totals $100, $250 or $500.
Joe Hanson
You forgot levels, scissors, clamps, punches, cold chisels, and really for most people a good work apron is a good idea and convenient.
Stuart
Thanks, I’ll add them in at the end.
AngryDrumGuy
If you meant a full torso apron, I agree, but for extra hands, the amount of help this $20 Carhartt Nail Apron has provided me is unreal, particularly on a ladder.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NHDASEK/
ToolOfTheTrade
The perfect tool kit is having all the tools you need to get the job done. Whatever that may be. Brand names bear little importance to most people in construction (or at least the people I know) while they’re working with the primary concern being getting the task at hand done properly and quickly. I don’t think I’ve ever asked anyone at work for the perfect screwdriver when fastening a screw or for the perfect hammer for driving in a nail or the perfect pipe wrench to tighten a gas line. I’ve never been asked that. I have a multitude of many different brands of tools that meet my needs when the duty calls. I’ve never really paid attention to the brand. Although I can tell you that this is a very broad question and I don’t think that a tool’s brand matters as much as its ability to help you get the job done. So what do you exactly mean by the perfect tool kit?
JoeM
I think we’re all having fun sharing our experiences with certain brands succeeding on a job, where others have failed. Stuart’s original list is probably just a guide to those tools that have presented the best longevity, and performance.
You do raise a great point though! All the brand names in the world don’t mean anything if they don’t do what we need done! But many of us who have commented here gravitate toward certain brands, for certain types of tools. So, say you were on a job site, and asked for a specific tool, and ten people offered you that tool from their own personal preferences. You’d be just as capable of doing what YOU are doing with THEIR tool in your hand, but what we’re kinda… exploring? If you will? Is what would those ten people happen to hand you, brand wise? What is most commonly trusted in each case.
So many of us are in totally different trades, it’s just interesting to see what we’ve gravitated to in order to get the job done. And for those of us, much like myself, it can save decades of losing bad tools to the wrong level of tool, simply by looking at the benefit of experience that others have had.
You, for example. I could totally see us, sitting on a porch somewhere with BB guns, firing at squirrels that are attacking the birds in the trees. All the while, you explaining your preferences in materials over the years. What has made you happy, or made you angry, or how you conquered a specific problem. Just listening to more experienced tradespeople is an education to the younger folk like myself, who have always dabbled in trades, but never made it a career. So, we’re very green, even though we’ve been using the tools all our lives. But YOU, sir, have much valued experience in your noggin that could easily help someone like me not make the horrible mistakes you might have made while you were still green.
Plus… It’s FUN to learn what everyone’s found throughout the tool world! It’s like an unfiltered review of a huge number of tools, all at once! And you’re not getting it from a sponsored site, or a single perspective, you’re getting twenty, all at once, all for you to compare data with! Call me a Nerd, but that kind of open access to information is irresistible!
fred
We all know that there are some pretty poor quality tools sold – ones that fail to perform their expected task – or just fail prematurely in use. The bad twist drill bit or the screwdriver tip that shatters with even moderate twisting come to mind. But putting those duds aside – one can attempt a cost-benefit analysis when buying a new tool and try to pick from a range of prices and perceived quality of manufacturing. While buying the really bad tools might hinder or make your work impossible – and buying the very best (if you can define that) may inspire you and enhance your work – having the best tool is no substitute for having the training and skill to use your tool properly. Having a great tool does not make a great mechanic – but great mechanics may choose great tools because they may their jobs easier, safer etc.
In another field (photography) – in which I’ve dabbled starting as a HS then College newspaper photographer – I’ve been asked : “which camera takes the best picture?” My response is that photographers take pictures and cameras are just tools in their hands. So if you want to pick the best tool (camera etc.) then acquire the skills needed to do the work which will give you enough knowledge to choose your tools wisely. Meanwhile – being able to glean some knowledge from others – as in reading ToolGuyd – might help in making those choices.
BTW – in one of our businesses, when we’d bring a new lead carpenter on – we’d give them a choice of a Lie-Nielsen or Veritas block plane as a welcome gift – and as an indicator of the quality of work that was expected of them.
Wayne R.
Great, great post. Thanks!
Jim Felt
Where’s USAG and their acquisition Facom? They both make wonderfully finished and unique tools.
Plus a bunch of boring ones too.
And they’re US owned.
fred
I thought that Facom (owned by SBD) was now the parent of USAG – only because when I was looking at some Facom webpage I saw a link. So I looked at USAG’s history page – they say that they started in 1926 in Italy and became part of Facom in 1991.
While I think I saw a USAG toolbox in Europe (maybe Italy) – I don’t recall seeing them in the US. Is there a convenient US supplier that you use?
aerodawg
No love for SK sockets? I bought a small set of 3/8 to try and ended up filling out my 3/8 and 1/4, SAE and Metric with them. Nicely made with a great fit. I filled out my much less used 1/2 with much less expensive Gearwrench though….
Kit
I grew up watching my father use Stanley tools so I’m likely to stick with Stanley for the hand tools but I’m not married to Stanley either.
I’ve been doing a great deal of research online but still not committed to any particular brands.
Hand tools
Several types of saws
Several types of pliers
Several types of hammers
Several types of screwdrivers
Several types of wrenches
Several types of measuring tools
Several types of clamps
Ratchets
socket set
utility knife
mutli-tool
X-acto collection
Couple of smaller miter boxes
Storage cases or boxes
Power tools (looking at 12V for most of it)
Dremel collection
Hot glue gun
Screwdriver with right angle attachment and driver bit set
Drill driver (maybe hammerdrill capability) with drill bit set
Impact driver with bits
A couple different sizes of skilsaw with various blades
Jigsaw with mixed blade set
Sawzall with mixed blade set
Router with router bits
Couple of different sanders
Angle grinder
Oscillating Tool with blade collection
Miter saw
Wet/dry vac
Storage cases or boxes
Safety equipment
cleaning supplies
first aid supplies
Koko the Talking Ape
Thanks to Stuart for a post guaranteed to generate a ton of discussion. My two bits:
– No Starrett tools in the measuring tools category? How the mighty have fallen!
– Suggest Stanley FatMax in the tape measures.
– I’ve used Hakko precision pliers and thought they were fine, about equal to Xuron.
– In LED flashlights, I’d suggest Princeton Tec headlamps. Headlamps free your hands and don’t leave things in shadow. They won’t be searchlight-powerful, but I have never needed that kind of power. Even a weak headlamp can do a lot to make up for inadequate room lighting.
Stuart
I’m not a fan of the Starrett accessories I tried, and the last few times I searched machinist forums, others’ recent experiences steered me away. I’ve been very pleased with Mitutoyo pricing and quality, and so I’ve stuck with them for the past decade or so.
Princeton Tec is another good brand. There are a couple. Generally, if one doesn’t want to do any research, Petzl is a good “just buy it and you’ll be happy” brand.
I’ve seen Hakko bundling mini shears with their soldering stations at times, but I don’t think I’ve seen any other products of that kind by them.
Andy
I loved my Hakko soldering station. Until I got my Ersa station. Give one a try sometime.
Stuart
I’ll check that out, thanks!
Which Ersa?
The ones I see on their site are pricier even than the Hakko 951, which is itself a big upgrade over the FX-888D.
Andy
I have an i-con pico. About $150 on Amazon. Too be fair, the Hakko I had was the FX-888d. I never used the 951.
jsbson
I prefer Metcal solder stations but hard to justify price for home use.
Tojen1981
No love for Snap-on tools?
Not cheap obviously, pretty much the iPhone equivalent of tools.
Very hard to beat for ergonomics. Lifetime warranty. They just “feel” like they’re an extension of your hand. Definitely my go-to brand in hand tools and tool storage, especially if I can pick them up second hand.
Stuart
Couldn’t afford it before, and even with more buying power now, I can’t justify it.
With Snap-on, part of the cost goes towards the service aspect, being able to get most common tools replaced at your door by a mobile dealer. With tools they don’t manufacture themselves, there is a huge premium.
I would argue that their non-dealer brands are good buys. But if it comes down to Williams vs. Proto, I like Proto selection and quality better.
Tojen1981
No argument on cost here, but the fact remains they should be considered at least equal to Proto or Williams in the “high-end” category.
The question is this to me:
If you had tool x in your hand 80% of the day, wouldn’t you want it to be the best tool possible?
If my livelihood depends on that tool, whether it be a shovel, hammer, rifle, knife, scissors, pick axe, bulldozer, car, etc, I want the best.
Stuart
True, and I’m not saying you’re wrong. For the sake of the post, I drew upon personal experiences and impressions. A future exploration of individual categories will have room for side-by-side equivalents, but for here I tried to focus on singular personal picks from the same tier, with few exceptions.
Generally, I would think that an automotive tech would lean towards Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, or other brands that are harder to justify for other user types.
This was also a “top of mind” type post, where I required myself to provide a near instantaneous answer. With very little exposure to Snap-on tools, I don’t even think they came to mind. But the same can be said for Stahlwille, Mac, Cornwell, Hazet, Nepros, and other highest-quality brands.
Yadda
Best wood chisel?
Gary
Stanley (budget), Narex (better), Veritas (best)
Stuart
I like Narex and Veritas, Lie Nielsen is also popular with deeper budgeted woodworkers.
I wouldn’t go Stanley right now, or Dewalt. I’ve seen a few complaints about easily dulled edges.
JoeM
I wouldn’t go Stanley or DeWALT at all for chisels. They’re not even worth the budget level. Veritas from Lee Valley are ranged in price enough that you can get the “Best” while still being on a “Budget” and I’ve found their customer service to be spectacular about if there’s a dulling problem with the model you bought.
I’ve experienced a “No Questions Asked” kind of customer service from Lee Valley. Okay, they ask your name (Customer number if you have one) and what happened, but after that it’s usually “It’s cheaper just to send you a replacement.”
fred
Narex seems to be the up and comer for budget minded quality chisels.
I think that lots of folks tend to buy chisels in sets – on the speculation that they may someday need lots of sizes. I did that too – but to be honest there are a few sizes that you gravitate to depending on what you are doing. What you buy and use if making furniture – can be a whole lot different than what you buy for chopping out or cleaning up the occasional hinge or strike plate mortise (My butt chisels are 50 year old Stanleys). You might use your chisels and gouges for wood carving (I dabble – and use mostly Two Cherries Brand in the shop – but use Flexcut when camping)) – or for chopping dovetails (mine are H. Koyama and Toshio Odate chisels from Japan) – or for paring (mine are a mix of Henry Taylor cranked neck, Lie-Nielsen fishtail, and Blue Spruce ). For chopping and cleaning up machine cut mortises (pre Domino days) I used Ray Isles chisels. For general chisel work – like cutting furniture hinge mortises, trimming dowels etc. – I use old Stanley (#40 series) pocket chisels, and newer Lie-Nielsen C-B series bevel-edge socket chisels.
A few years back – Stanley reintroduced a line of socket chisels – under their “sweetheart” moniker – I have not tied them – but Amazon’s choice algorithm seems to have been applied to this set:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8/
William Adams
Blue Spruce Toolworks — love their coping saw, and looking forward to getting a set of chisels
William
Oscillating Multi Tool, I like my Fein corded, but that’s the only one I have much experience with.
Angle Grinder, I use a 4 1/2 Corded Metabo that I’m happy with.
General Purpose Handsaws?
Jigsaw?
Dead Blow Mallet, I like Trusty Cook
Glue Gun?
Tap and Die?
Hole Saw?
Heat Gun?
Pipe Wrench?
Gary
Hacksaw?
Axe?
Sledgehammer?
fred
@Gary
I just looked at your post again and saw the Axe question.
This is a tool where specifics might matter. I taught a lot of boy scouts and scouter(adult volunteers) how to properly use a hand axe (sometimes called a hatchet). I shied away from doing much (other than teaching sharpening) with a long handled axe. My take is that unless you use a long-handled axe regularly – or your name is Paul Bunyan – you might not have the muscle and/or muscle-memory to use it effectively. For felling trees you are better served with a chainsaw – (or if your religion forbids power tools – use a 2-man saw.) For splitting wood – there are various splitting wedges and sledgehammers that will work – or you can step up to a hydraulic-engine-driven splitter if your doing a big pile. For cutting big limbs into small pieces a bow saw is easier/safer than using an axe. But for camping – a small hand axe – using the contact-method is effective for splitting kindling – can be used to point stakes, make fuzz sticks etc.. I have several hand axes – and some 30+ year old Swedish (Gränsfors Bruk) ones were what I camped with most. They are far superior to the Collins axe I had (still have) when I was a scout in the 1950’s. More recently – I acquired a Silky 568-12 – that is more like a cleaver – but is handy for camping.
.
Gary
Thanks Fred … I appreciate the information.
fred
Glue Gun?
What you use it for may define what you think is best.
We did a lot of countertop templating – you need to flow a lot of glue quickly – we used guns like these from 3M:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Applicator-Quadrack-Converter-Trigger/dp/B001AO27V0/
Now my wife is at the other end of the spectrum – doing a dab of glue here and there for crafts . She really like the convenience of her Ryobi cordless:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-ONE-Cordless-Full-Size-Glue-Gun-Tool-Only-with-3-General-Purpose-Glue-Sticks-P305/300335930
fred
Pipe wrench?
Hard to go wrong buying ones (pipe wrenches often need to be used in pairs – one for holding – on for turning) from Ridgid (Emerson), Reed or Wheeler Rex. Rothenberger make good ones too.
ktash
Jigsaw?
Bosch has great jigsaws. Based on this, I got the Bosch 1591EVSL 120-Volt Barrel Grip Jigsaw some years ago. It’s been a great saw in all ways but one. You can’t use it with the Collins Coping Foot.
fred
I bought a Bosch JS572EBL but did not get rid of my much older 1584VS on which I usually have a Collins Coping Foot mounted. The newer JS572EBL is perhaps smoother cutting – but having had lots of trial and error trouble getting the baseplate locked in at 90 degrees – I am now loathe to change it. So I revert to the older saw when I want to make anything other than a 90 degree cut.
Kit
Heheh, you guys are great with new people – all these suggestions for brands and whatnot.
My biggest project (full size captains bed with 12 drawers) that I’m finally finishing up on here is what prompted me to start thinking about getting my own power tool collection so I won’t have to borrow my partners tools anymore. Any future projects will be much smaller than that one.
This website was one of the first that I came across when I started my research a few weeks ago and I have bookmarked quite a few articles here. Even I’m disappointed in Sears/craftsman and I hope SBD does turn them around (maybe bring back Matrix and Bolt-On) as those are really space saving (much needed as I have an issue with lack of space in my 700 Sq ft home).
Redcastle
Stuart
This is what I like best about Toolguyd you start the ball rolling and lots of people join in either in a light hearted or serious way and everybody’s pool of knowledge grows deeper. While it is always good for a source of debate my intention was not to try and define the absolute best tool in any category but rather have the Toolguyd hive mind identify tools plural which perform well at their intended function so there could be ten chisel producers.
To differentiate between tools which can do the job and try and rank them in absolute terms is too difficult because how a particular tool feels in the hand is important but varies from individual to individual, Fred mentioned that he had big “mitts”, one of the reasons I like Kong gloves is they come in XXXL but are also well made and do their job which is why I would recommend them as for most people the extra large sizes are irrelevant.
Some of the cabinet maker level carpenters I know have custom made (in Canada at a cost of £800+) planes which they obviously consider makes them more effective in their work however other than to the very small universe they inhabit such tools are a curiosity not to say they should be ignored but rather that they fit in a category which recognises both the cost and the specialist nature of the tool.
That is why I raised the question in the context of a “hall of fame” format so there is room for the Beatles, Rolling Stones and The Who.
Rain
Swanstrom and Lindstrom flush cutters.
Mike
Hey Stuart I’ve been following your blog quietly for the last 4-5 years and I’ve recently started a job where I need to make a pretty decent investment in tools. I was scrolling through this list to see your recommendations (I’m staying more on the budget side) and since you still have “tbd” on the bang for buck mechanics set I thought I’d throw my two cents in.
I did a lot of research on sockets because between that and the tool chest they were the priciest of the things on my list. Without seeing your list I nearly bought Husky or Tekton, but finally arrived at the Dewalt 6 pt 192 pc set. Not sure how familiar you are with the set but it seems to go on sale regularly. I got the set for 160 dollars and it includes a nearly full set of sockets from 1/4-1/2 in drive with minimal skipping, extensions and adapters, ratchets and hex keys. I haven’t used it yet but the ratchets felt decent, the sockets appear to be good quality, and the reviews matched my hopes for a serviceable kit. I got it at a third of the price, and although not as comprehensive as the husky set, it has everything I should need.
What are your thoughts on the 192 piece kit?
Stuart
Thanks for the feedback on the Dewalt set, and for your years of support!
Dewalt makes great mechanics tool sets, and as you have found, some of them are really good values when they’re aggressively promoted seasonally and in between.
With that Dewalt set (Amazon link), you do get a lot of good stuff.
I think the 192pc set is a better deal than their 108, 142, and 168pc sets, at least based on what you get. There’s also a larger 204pc set, but you’re paying for incomplete wrench sets.
I was going to say that I don’t know if I would recommend a $150+ tool kit as a “best bang for the buck” option, but the 192pc set does look to be a very good value. You’re getting hex keys and bit sockets, but that’s much better than insert bits and nut driver bits. And as mentioned, you’re not paying for a very limited set of combination wrenches.
I think this is a good bang-for-the-buck recommendation, thank you for bringing it up!!
Boots
Wrenches:
Combination. Proto
Flare. Snap on
Box end. Stahlwille deep offset
Screwdriver:
Wiha heavy duty
Ratcheting. Snap On
Precision. Wiha
L hex keys:. PB Swiss
Hand drills/braces. Miller Falls/ Yankee
Electrical /testing & measuring equipment:
Fluke
I-gaging caliper
Ideal outlet tester
Starret square
Pliers:
Knipex pliers wrench and cobra
Klein Journey man side cutters and linesman
Klenk Metal shears
Peterson vise grip
Ratchets. Snap on duel 80
Industro vintage
Prybar. Tove
Bolt cutters. Krenn
Flashlight. HDS
EDC knife. Spyderco
Multitool. Leatherman
Pen. Felholter. /. Fisher space pen.
Shop Vac HEPA. Nilfisk/ Fein/Starmix
Hand Planes. Veritas/ Lie Nielsen
Wood files. Aurieu
Drill bits:
Famag/ Fisch/Lee Valley HSS