In the losing battle of trying to keep stuff organized and accessible, I’ve been doing what I can to knock down the clutter around my shop and make it easier to access the supplies and tools I have. In one particular cabinet, I store paint, glue, other liquids, and the requisite tools for these supplies. It’s always a mess; I’ll go through it every few years, throw out all the old expired stuff, and try to organize it, but it gets disorganized pretty fast.
A few weeks ago I had an idea, I was working with PVC pipe for another project and I happened to notice that a standard sized caulk tube fit almost perfectly inside some 2″ PVC scrap pipe. It got me thinking that I might be able to make the tubes of caulk and adhesive more accessible all while using some previously unusable space in the cabinet.
Advertisement
The next time I was at the hardware store, I looked for a 10 foot section of PVC pipe. While looking for the pipe, I noticed they sold “foam core” PVC along side the “solid core” PVC. I’d never seen foam core PVC pipe, but figuring that I didn’t need the burst strength of solid core for this project and that the foam core was significantly cheaper and quite a bit lighter, I picked up the foam core PVC pipe.
Since the shelves in the cabinet are folded sheet metal with about a 3/4″ lip for strength, I needed a base to lower the PVC pipe sections so I could get the caulk tubes in and out. I decided to use a 1×6 which got the pipe sections below the edge of the lip and gave me something other than the cabinet to fasten them to.
The 1×6 also worked out well because I didn’t want the PVC pipe to fully cover the caulk tubes. I thought that by leaving the first few inches of the caulk tube exposed, it would let me identify it without having to remove the tube. Cutting the PVC to 5-1/2″ lengths gave the caulk tubes enough support while exposing enough of the label to read.
I set up a stop block on the miter saw and proceeded to cut as many PVC pipe sections as I could get to fit onto the 1×6, which I had trimmed to a length that would allow me to get it into the cabinet without much finagling. All in all I was able to fit 13 sections of pipe onto the board.
Then I ran a bead of hot glue down each pipe section and attached them to the 1×6. Once I had all the pipes attached, I ran another bead of hot glue between each pipe to stiffen the whole rack.
Advertisement
To fasten the rack to the bottom of the shelf, I drilled through the top of the shelf and drove screws down into the rack. I previously made sure the screws would land in the spaces between the sections of pipe. Even though the screw heads stick out above the shelf a bit, they really don’t interfere with loading and unloading the shelf.
That’s it. Now I am utilizing previously unused space in my cabinet to organize my tubes of caulk and glue. To be honest, I probably don’t need all 11 of those tubes, I should go through and figure out which ones have expired or hardened.
As a bonus, look below to see how I organized most of the tools that I keep in the cabinet.
Here’s the quick explanation: I cut 1/4″ grooves in some 2x4s and fastened them to the top and bottom of the shelf, similar to the way I did it for the caulk rack. Then I just cut pegboard to fit the opening.
It really makes a difference when I need to find a tool – I don’t need to go digging around, I know exactly where to look.
fred
I used to keep mine stored in a rack that was designed to store 6 boxes of plastic wrap, waxed paper and aluminum foil. Your solution has a better packing-factor and uses what might otherwise be wasted space. My current solution is to not save open tubes and buy new tubes only as the need arises. I’ve always found that shelf life of open tubes is relatively short – no matter what I used to try regarding resealing the tip – and I prefer to have a fresh tube for a new job.
I have not tried those new sealer tips that use water to prevent air infiltration:
https://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=59112
but I’ve tried both store-bought and homemade (caps, golf tees, screws, dowels, tape etc.) ways to seal open tubes.
Hilton
I bought some of those little ‘durries’ most probably from Fastcap and they seem to keep the air out but I suspect I now need to use PTFE tape in the nozzle to keep the air out from those coarse threads.
I normally put a new nozzle on every time I use the gun as I don’t have the patience to poke the end to get the flow going. They are free after all.
William
I’m surprised that you have problems with caulk going bad. Maybe I use it frequently enough as a professional but I very rarely have problems. I just leave the end uncapped. I like have a very small bead of caulk so the hole is only as big as the poke rod on the gun.
I dont use caps at all. The caulk will dry at the tip blocking air from entering the rest of the tube and ruining the caulk. When I need to use the tube again I just poke the rod in the top and clear the little bit of hardened caulk.
Don
Love both ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Scott K
Ii currently keep mine in a small filing cabinet with various quarts and other misc. liquids. I really like the sliding pegboards- great idea!
A W
Great idea Benjamin! I like both solutions.
Don Miller
A suggestion. With two pieces of slightly larger diameter PVC pipe you could store the caulking guns next to the tubes.
Just a thought…
Don
Don Miller
I also want to add: that is a very clever idea.
Don
Benjamen
Not a bad idea, but I’d already mounted them to the pegboard.
Nathan S
I’m putting this on my (growing) list of improvements to make to my shop: thanks!
On a side note, are there rules of thumb for caulking storage shelf life? I’m not necessarily referring to expiration dates. My shop is unconditioned, and it seems every time I go to retrieve a previously opened (and resealed) tube of caulk, I find it takes awhile to poke through the dried stuff, or it’s just too far gone.
michaelhammer
No. No is the answer. I throw away as much product as I use bacause, as Fred said, it can’t be preserved. (I haven’t tried that fastcap sealer tip either). It always seemed like such a hassle to get a few dollars worth out of the tube with the now destroyed tip. For this reason I try to buy the smaller squeeze tube whenever possible or feasible. I just need to invent a gun for those things. That would be awesome! I have a pretty good idea of how it would work.
Jeremy Brown
They do have a gun for them. Works reasonably well too
Hilton
Just put a new nozzle on, they’re free.
Cr8on
Wait a second…. You guys actually keep caulk around long enough to need to store it!
Nice work Benjamin, great solution, I really like simple projects to solve problems regardless of my own need for it, I often find it helpful for coming up with ideas.
Benjamen
Yeah, there’s always that half-used tube of caulk at the end of a project. I don’t like throwing stuff like that away. Unfortunately, when I need it 6 months later it’s usually dried up and I have to run to the store anyway,
Some of the tubes are unopened. I have a few tubes of the color matched caulk for my siding and I also like to keep a fresh tube of liquid nails type adhesive.
Adam
thanks for the projet idea(s)!
ktash
Thanks for the ideas, Benjamen! I’ve been trying to figure out some storage options using pegboard and I like yours really well. I’ve built some cubbies into a large metal rolling cart and have room at the sides to store some hanging tools. The groove in the 2×4 (sounds like a new jazz sound) idea is exactly what I needed to fit the space.
I’m not in love with pegboard on the walls in a small shop like mine, but it’s perfect for some other things like your project. I also plan to use it for shop drawer bottoms so the sawdust drops thru.
fred
If you Google “swing-out pegboard” you might find some other ideas including this :
https://www.amazon.com/Moveable-swinging-Boards-Storage-Sides/dp/B001JT85O4
Some of the woodworking and handyman magazines also have compendiums of tips and tricks and/or shop storage solutions.
Your idea about pegboard drawer bottoms seems useful. I’ve also made “drawers” out of wire baskets – no dust collection – but wont work with items that can fall through the wire mesh.
Over on the Community Forum web site there also was a thread on some storage ideas:
https://discuss.toolguyd.com/t/unique-storage-solutions-in-your-workshop/189
ktash
“swing-out pegboard” ha, ha another musical genre. That community forum thread has some great ideas.
I especially like the pegboard panel with the pliers/cutters that you made for the ceiling. I may try that. My basement ceiling is not high, but high enough for that. There are some pliers that I rarely use, but that are essential for certain jobs. Pliers and other small hand tools could be stored like that. I’m trying to figure out what the “pegs” you used were. Also, my main objection to pegboard is that the pegs fall out. I like the ones that screw in like in Benjamen’s pic of the paintbrushes. More research needed on good pegs.
Jim
Can you share the brand of pegboard you use that use a screw to secure them?
Jim
Pegboard hooks that is…
Benjamen
Durahook. They are a little more spendy, but after you use them, you won;t want to use anything else.
I previewed them here https://toolguyd.com/triton-durahook-pegboard-hooks/
They come with screws for both 1/4″ and 1/8″ pegboard.
BTW the pegboard is commercial grade stuff I picked up from a store when they re-arranged their shelving, It’s slightly thicker and coated with a really durable paint on either side. I’d also recommend it, if you can find it.
ktash
Hey, I was just in Menard’s and they have the Durahooks. I didn’t want to buy an expensive kit on Amazon, but got a cheaper one so I can try them out. You can also buy them singly there, if you want to see how they work. With Amazon it’s hard to try them singly since the shipping would be prohibitive. Menard’s is regional.
Benjamen
Yeah, I purchased the “set” at Menards that’s normally $18 – $20 for $10 one week when they were on sale.
I find I use the following hooks the most, so I’ve purchased them in 10 packs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LDF8YY/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KI3O62
MacLean
I always have a fresh tube of silicone and roofing patch available for emergencies.
You could use a label maker to identify the tubes.
A thin drizzle of PVC cement poured in the crack between pipes will also work. And so will a plastic welder.
I like the idea for bigger tubes for the guns.
I also really like the pegboard idea…I might try that with rollers on top…or a drawer slide.
Until I build the 84′ by 48′ pole barn I am dreaming of I’m stuck to my 3rd garage bay…stacking things just like this helps. Every ounce of space has a purpose.
michaelhammer
Wine labels would work perfectly for labeling tubes in this instance.
Hilton
Like these? I’ve never heard of wine labels before so thanks for the idea.
https://www.amazon.com/Reusable-Plastic-Erasable-Perforated-Bottles/dp/B01M1S85MR/
firefly
I love both ideas especially the sliding peg board. Both are simple and useful yet economical and easy to make.
Rock Hound - (J.Sutter)
I really dig both the tube and brush holder ideas and will be stealing both. I always have a bunch of tubes of grease and caulking and very much like this over my “dump it all in a box” sort method.
Koko The Talking Ape
Brilliant!
Re caulk storage: if the wood plank had been countersunk, and flat-head screws been used, would the screw heads have pulled the sheet metal into the countersink, so that the heads end up flush with the shelf?
Re sliding tool panels: that is the best idea I have seen in a long time. I might consider putting a bit of abrasion-resistant material at the near end of the slot, which will get most of the wear from the sliding panels. Perhaps a little bar of steel could be nailed to the ends of the 2x4s, so that they are flush with the bottom of the groove.
jec6613
A bit of plastic might do better than the steel – self lubricating and easier on the boards. Also probably cheaper.
Koko The Talking Ape
Yes, but I think the pegboard would eventually wear out most plastic. I was thinking the steel piece should be polished and rounded, but didn’t say it. 🙂
IJK
If you need it to slide better, you can buy sheets of PTFE. Just trim to size/length and just stick it in. Usually self-adhesive.
Koko The Talking Ape
You mean you stick it into the bottom of the groove? That seems difficult…
Ryan
I Store Used tubes by melting the cut end back closed. I have a plastic welding tip for my soldering iron, looks like a small spade. A quick heat and then i fold the cut end back in on itself, is an airtight solution and appears to work fine for 3 months plus. I then just re cut the tip when ready to use again.
it works really well on those small squeezable tubes for touch ups.
MacLean
If you dado out the 2×4 or cut the groove deeper you could use umhw…or just cut the groove in a 1″ thick piece.
Ray D
Very nice Benjamen, I really like the PVC pipe caulk or other tube-like gooey stuff rack. Going to give this a try once I built my table saw station.
Neil
This is really timely. I am working on trying to build a rack that will hold aerosol cans, caulk, and spray bottles on a wall section. I was going to order some stainless or metal versions with magnets but I don’t think its cost effective. Still trying to plan it out. I hope to figure something out but I like this pipe idea. I want to store vertically. I hope to find a cap or something so I can hold them up….
dave
I have had very good luck with these little red rubber caps for sealing up my caulking tubes.
https://www.amazon.com/Little-Red-Cap-Contractor-Saving/dp/B019RRDYEU/
Dave
Mike
1) I use wire caps and they work nice all the time. I first make sure that after use there is no air in the tube nozzle by pushing out the caulking with the gun and then twist the cap on… it preserves the caulking from drying.. depending on how much I cutted off the tip on the tube, will tell me what size of wire cap will fit best..
2) With the new tube I usually cut small tip off as much as I need and if later the caulking will dry I’ll take 1/8″ drill bit with a drill and drill out old dry caulking on high speed pushing drill slowly in, instead of pushing it in with a wire.. as it will come back and block the opening too soon
Wire caps
158PCS Electrical Wire Connectors Screw Terminals,with Spring Insert Twist Nuts Caps Connection Assortment Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPXUEPO/
Nathan
huh and all this time I’ve just been putting them on a shelf upright so I can read the labels . I don’t think I keep that much on hand – mercy Saw a guy do the PVC pipe thing but then turned them on say a 60 degree angle or such so they rack slide in and the weight keeps them down – but they are at an angle on the shelf.
This is in his panel van though.
However that peg board paint brush thing is very interesting. Keep on with the organization threads they are interesting reads. thank you
Frank D
With several paint projects going on an multiple extra brushes, rollers and gadgets coming in … it was running through the back of my head I would have to sort out my metal paint cabinet.
Bottom and lower shelf has paint cans stacked in it. Middle shelf has all the hand stuff in a couple if boxes. Top shelf has primarily spray paint cans. Caulk tubes are in a win bottle box tipped on its side.
Thanks for the caulk tube and paintbrush perf board rack tips.
I may try the caulk tube thing later, when I’m done with weatherization, remodeling and re-finishing. Right now I’m buying almost bulk.
For the paint brushes, I may try putting the peg board on the doors, making a 1x friction fit frame inside the overlap of those metal doors, then applying pegboard over it.
Thabks for the ideas.