Dewalt has come out with new woodworking saw blades, featuring new exclusive and patent-pending “ToughTrack” tooth technology.
Dewalt says that their new framing and ripping circular saw blades are engineered for straight, accurate cuts over the life of the blade. They feature an ATB+R tooth grind, which helps the blade clear debris from the cutting channel, allowing for straight and smooth cuts.
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The blades also have patented body slots, to help reduce vibration.
Dewalt also says that the blades’ thin kerf design “delivers exceptional user feel.”
The teeth are made of high-density tungsten carbide for wear resistance and long life. The shoulder is reinforced for impact resistance and durability. Dewalt says that this is especially true when faced with cutting nail-embedded wood.
A ToughCoat anti-stick coating helps to reduce friction and gumming-up.
The blades are optimized for both cordless and corded circular saws. They’ll be available in several sizes:
- 6-1/2″
- 7-1/4″
- 8-1/4″
Blade Sizes and Styles
- DWA161218, 6 1/2″ 18T BLISTER, $10
- DWA161224, 6 1/2″ 24T BLISTER, $11
- DWA161240, 6 1/2″ 40T BLISTER, $16
- DWA1612CMB, COMBO PACK- 6 1/2″ 18T & 24T, $20
- DWA171424, 7 1/4″ 24T BLISTER, $10
- DWA1714242, 7 1/4″ 24T 2PK, $19
- DWA1714243, 7 1/4″ 24T 3PK, $28
- DWA171424B10, 7 1/4″ 24T BULK (10), $10 each
- DWA171424DB10, 7 1/4″ 24T WORM DRIVE BULK (10), $10 each
- DWA171440, 7 1/4″ 40T BLISTER, $15
- DWA171440B10, 7 1/4″ 40T BULK (10), $15 each
- DWA171460, 7 1/4″ 60T BLISTER, $20
- DWA171460B10, 7 1/4″ 60T BULK (10), $20 each
- DWA181424, 8 1/4″ 24T BLISTER, $12
- DWA181424B10, 8 1/4″ 24T BULK (10), $12 each
- DWA181440, 8 1/4″ 40T BLISTER, $29
ETA: Spring 2019
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Buy Now(7-1/4″ 24T via Amazon)
Buy Now(7-1/4″ 60T via Amazon)
Dewalt says that all of their 6-1/2″ and 7-1/4″ cordless circular saws, and also combo kits that include saws, will come with one of these new blades.
First Thoughts
The new Dewalt ToughTrack circular saw blades look different from the previous Precision Framing and Precision Finishing blades.
They also look different compared to the Dewalt FlexVolt circular saw blades.
Honestly, we’re not given much to go by. Current sell sheets sound good and proper, but don’t actually describe what users can expect from the new blades, at least compared to current or existing blade types.
They deliver “exceptional user feel.” But what does that mean? The new Dewalt circular saw blades are designed to cut straight and last long. But how do these saw blades stand out?
Looking at Dewalt PrecisionFinish and FlexVolt saw blades in 7-1/4″ and 60T sizing, the new blades do look to have updated tooth geometries. In the photos, it looks like the teeth are larger, which would be a good improvement.
Dewalt power tool accessories are generally quite good, and the pricing of the new blades seems to be comparable to that of their other premium circular saw blades.
These blades should start rolling out to stores soon. If you try one, please let us know what you think!
Julian Tracy
I’ve always thought the yellowed rimmed 10-12” Dewalt blades were basic crap ; buy and throw away. My preference is to buy quality blades at $65-85 each and get them sharpened instead of considering them disposables.
But for a middle priced option, considering the (red) Freud’s are made in Italy, why wouldn’t you buy those instead at roughly 30-40% higher price?
Having said that, the stock Dewalt blade on their 20v 7.5” mitersaw gives very good results and is only about $18 to replace.
It’s a delicate blade though, if you hit a knot or are cutting something oddball like plastic threshold moldings, you can easily destroy the blade – it literally will lose 4-5 teeth and bend the plate, so you have to always have a spare. I’ve had that happen 2-3 times and each was completely unexpected and I was not slamming the blade into the cut.
I keep trying other 7.5” blades, but most don’t have the right geometry for a mitersaw so they cut like crap.
Brandon
Basic crap is an understatement. I have two 12″ Dewalt miter saws in my high school woodshop, one with a Dewalt 72/32 (set-up changes often) tooth blade and the other with a Craftsman 60 tooth blade. I much prefer the Craftsman blade for cut quality and life over the Dewalt any day of the week; from day one the Dewalt one has been marginal at best and one can feel the difference in force required to push down on the head of the mitersaw to cut (we use poplar, cherry, hard maple, and red oak). I do not know who the OEM for the blades are, but for the cost that I can get the Craftsman blade, I will use them until Sears is no longer.
Nathan
HMM – I haven’t used a dewalt circular saw blade but I might try one – last one I bought was a 60T diablo blade for ply and laminate. I’ve been happy with my diablo stuffs so far.
But my Dewalt table saw came with their 10 inch 40 tooth combo blade and it’s been great. However I also bought a diablo 50 tooth combo and use it on interior wood – and the dewalt blade on pressure treat or other exterior wood.
Nathan
Forgot to add. Who makes these blade? Are they a premium Irwin or Lennox blade – and are they made in the USA?
fred
The Acme Tool listing for the DEWALT DWA171424 says that the COO is China
Ozzy
Dewalt started bringing production back into the United States in 2013. You may have old stock.
Stuart
These are new blades, with new product listings. There’s no reason to believe that the COO listings are inaccurate.
Hoser
If you read my comment you will see that the blade says Made In China on it.
fred
The Acme listing is for pre-orders on the new items – not for old stock
John
What dewalt products are made or assembled in the US? The only thing I’ve seen is impact drivers.
Ozzy
What and where have you researched?
Hoser
Unfortunately mine says made in China.
Ozzy
I use Dewalt blades daily, never had a problem with them. Never lost a tooth, even when hitting a nail in reclaimed material or continues cutting of white oak. As for people using them as throw away blades, shame on you. I resharpen all of my own blades and have done for many years. I have the Dewalt 10in table-saw and 15in mitre saw. As a second choice I will purchase the Diablo offerings.
fred
In the cabinet shop we had a machinist/mechanic that worked on maintenance and keeping things in order (including sharpening ) in the tool room. In the GC/Remodeling business we had no such “luxury” – or place to do this in our workout centers. At an environmental consciousness level it was a shame that we considered re-sharpening of so many items like saw blades, drill bits, and router bits as not being economical. But at what we paid our lead carpenters – and even helpers – their time seemed better employed in accomplishing other work. That is possibly – and perhaps sadly – why low cost “disposable” blades made in China is often what we buy. Conversely – I would not think about throwing out one of my Forrest USA-Made blades – when their re-sharpening service returns a blade to me in “almost-new” condition at a much lower cost than buying new.
BTW – this is perhaps a comment about our “throw-away society”. On a visit to India – I saw folks repairing “cheap” fold-up umbrellas – the kind that sells for around $3 to $5. Apparently for a few rupees (pennies) its worth their while to do this job – and worth it for the customer to undertake the repair. In the US you see these sorts of umbrellas in the waste bins at train stations and airports – after a on-time mishap with the wind.
Gordon
Whenever my blades get too old, dull, or damaged, they go into a box. If someone needs to borrow something or if I need to cut junk wood I use one of those blades. And I’m never sad if it gets damaged even more. Whenever my Ridge Carbide blades need to be sharpened I send it all in together. Even Freud/Diablo blades have enough carbide to warrant one or two sharpenings. As long as there are less than 3 teeth missing, it’s more cost effective to repair and sharpen.
Tom
Diablo tracking point have been out for a couple years. Best blades I’ve used. Don’t like the dewalt . Diablo demo deman are even better..
HD has them BOGO at holidays.. I’ve used a bunch of blades and find diablo to be the best.
Nathan
I was going to say diablo on their site mentions resharpening. I don’t know what it costs but more often than not a Diablo blade is the same or very similar to it’s Freud counterpart.
For a 7-1/4 blade I don’t know I would bother paying to sharpen it – but I do clean the 2 that I have. I often find just cleaning them helps a good bit. I clean my mitre and table saw blades after every project.
The What?
When they started using carbide tips for the blade teeth that’s when they became disposable. These are no different from anybody else’s blades and all that tough track and tough super coating stuff is a bunch of BS. Besides, all that coating crap they put on the blades is for advertising purposes and to make the blade look like it’s cool or something. That shit doesn’t do anything but get paint on whatever you’re cutting. It doesn’t keep the blade straight and it doesn’t improve how the blade goes through the cut. That’s all done by the operator. Anything made with brazed carbide teeth is a disposable saw blade no matter who its made by. The blades that I use have been out of production for decades and were made before they started brazing teeth. Skil Super Sharp 40 tooth combo blades. Made in the USA. I’ve used the same two blades for demolition, ripping and crosscutting for almost 20 years. Every single tooth is still on it and I’ve ripped through nails, screws, staples, hangers etc many times. Simply sharpen it back up and it’s ready to go again. No gimmick coatings or laser cut vent slots or brazed carbide tips. Just a plain simple looking piece of steel that cuts the shit out of wood. I even use them for finish carpentry. Tougher than nails. I’m pretty sure that the entire blade is carbide. They beat the hell out of anything made in the last 20 years. I stopped wasting money on 7¼ blades a long time ago. If you can find one, get it and sharpen it real well with a diamond file and it will cut any type of lumber you throw at it for a long time. Best saw blade I’ve ever used.
Gordon
The only other possibility for teeth is HSS. There simply isn’t anything else that could or would have been used. HSS is sharper than carbide when new. But it dulls significantly faster and requires more care. If you hit a nail with carbide you’re likely to snap the tooth off. If you hit a nail with HSS, you’re just going to mangle it. Both require significant repair.
You sound like the guy that tries to convince everyone that cars got more dangerous when they added seat belts and airbags.
Carbide, like airbags, is a technological advancement that makes everything better.
Megatron
The What!,
I have not obviously used these blades, but 22 years of barnwood and trimming experience I have used 5 blades and just sharpened them which has worked well. On the flip side don’t demean someone for their preferences.
[Redacted]
Stuart
c’mon – the personal attacks are uncalled for.
Julian Tracy
Saying all carbide tipped saw blades are the same is as silly as saying all drill bits are equal.
I’m sure there’s still old school plumbers that are installing pvc supply lines, but they’ve come up with a better way.
fred
My first business was plumbing and pipe-fitting.
“Old school” for me was replacing galvanized, yellow brass (subject to dezincification) and even some lead water pipe with (depending on the locale) copper/red brass – either sweat fitted or threaded connections. We still worked with lead for caulking CI bell and spigot joints, shower pans, and bends for toilets.
On a recent TOH show – they were installing a gas dryer – showed a black-iron service going in and talked about a drip-led to catch any rust that might form. I’m old enough to know that its called a drip leg because – the gas in parts of the country was manufactured from coal – and delivered to your house carrying some liquid/vapor remnants of the manufacturing process that could condense out and drip. Mercifully the last manufactured gas plants closed in the mid-1950’s – with natural gas now coming via an interstate pipeline system.
fred
“drip-leg” – not “drip-led” – darn those fat fingers!
The What?
You obviously don’t know your as_ from a hole in the ground about plumbing. And you obviously shouldn’t speak what’s on your mind if you’re going to [redacted]
Stuart
That’s uncalled for, too.
Ozzy
Dang, carpenters are a feisty bunch aren’t they? Everybody has an opinion, that’s a good thing. Whatever floats your boat and works for you is a good thing.
Megatron
A-firm Ozzy. Valid point.
Garry
Just by a blade made by a top supply Leuco for one
Tom
So ,Im new to commenting but…the what is belittling anyone else that doesn’t follow his experience and Megatron is calling the what out by name and calling him a derogatory anatomy part for expressing his opinion.
I’ve seen other guys get reprimanded by Stewart for much less…is there favoritism on here or he just hates some people on here.?
Stuart
I’ve been preoccupied this week, at home with my preschooler who just had their tonsils out, and my car’s brakes bottoming out today. I’m mostly caught up with recent comments, but did NOT catch that one. That’s obviously not allowed, thanks for bringing it to my attention!
“The What” has a history of difficult comments (sorry, just being frank), but that doesn’t mean they deserve to be abused. They’re entitled to their opinions and input.
Oh, I do have my favorites, but I generally try to treat everyone equally and fairly, and so no, there’s no favoritism.
MichaelHammer
The what is catagorically correct. Those old blades that aren’t thin kerf are best. Thin kerf is a rip off and sales pitch for them a myth.
Ozzy
Please explain your theory for a thick kerf. I for one love the surgical cut of a thin kerf, lack of sawdust and ease of sharpening but would appreciate your feedback.
The What?
Kerf means absolutely nothing when doing framing. If you’re doing trim carpentry, kerf isn’t as important as understanding blade placement. It’s about knowing how to leave the line, take the line, or split the line.
fred
Isn’t it a compromise – between thin kerf blades that presumably work better with under-powered saws and blade stability the blade plate material in thinned down.
On some table saws with riving knives – there may be another issue in that the cut kerf has to be at least as wide as the riving knife is thick – otherwise if you try to use that riving knife it will bind in the kerf. I believe that Infinity Cutting tools sells a 10 inch blade that they advertise produces a 1/16 inch kerf. I think that the blade uses central stiffener plates and they sell a special splitter for it.
On my Unisaw – the Forrest blade that is usually mounted produces a 0.125 inch kerf. On my Bosch 4100 jobsite saw I chose a blade with a 0.094 inch kerf – because compared to the Unisaw the Bosch is underpowered. The choices had nothing to do with conserving wood, making less or more sawdust or being able to cut to a line.
With handheld corded circular saws – you might not consider a thin kerf blade and certainly not if it was mounted in something like a Skil 77 as an example. But a thin kerf blade might make a difference with a cordless saw – especially one of the older brushed-motor ones. With the market moving to more and more cordless saws – the blade manufacturers have continued to work on thin-kerf designs to reduce things like blade wobble – where thicker makes this easier to control – while thinner makes it more difficult. Presumably the thinner kerf helps the cordless saw power-through cuts and reduces battery drain.
If you think about it in the limit – having a paper-thin blade that was super stiff, cut straight and true and had long-lasting carbide teeth – would be great – but they haven’t figured out how to make such a blade or what plate material could be used.
Conversely a 1/4 thick steel blade would probably reduce wobble/deflection in the cut better than a typical 1/8 inch thick 10 inch blade and a 1/8 inch thick 7-1/4 inch blade might be more stable than a 0.075 kerf blade – but in both cases the power needed run those thicker blades – and maybe the potential for kickback would be increased.
MichaelHammer
I don’t think I quite understand a circular saw finish blade. Seems like the wrong tool for the job. Maybe in a track saw? That I could see. I’m unimpressed with what DeWalt has offered so far. Diablo is nothing special either. Tenryu has been proven more reliable at a similar price point. For table saws, Fred is right, Forest is tops.
Hoser
Maybe you have a stack of 16’ sticks of casing that you need cut in half for door casing legs, much easier to cut them right there in place with a nice finish blade on a circ saw.
Or suppose you don’t have and can’t afford a tracksaw, then a finish blade on a circ saw and a straight edge clamped to your material is the next best thing.
Or any one of many other situations that would require the use of a circ saw and a relatively clean cut.
ulf olsson
Don´t forget that there are different lines of Blades from DW, thin kerf/wíde kerf, coated/ non coated, different grinded teeth’s, resharpable or not , Angleson teeth’s and so on!