Dewalt is soon coming out with a new compact corded SDS rotary hammer, model D25052K. The new rotary hammer features active vibration control, for increased user comfort and safety, and a built-in clutch that protects users in case the bit jams.
- SDS Plus chuck
- Rotary hammer and rotary-only modes
- Integral clutch
- Floating handle (as part of vibration dampening)
- Kit includes side handle and carrying case
- 6A motor
- Max Capacity: 3/4″ (masonry materials)
- Optimal Capacity: 5/32″ to 1/2″
- 6A motor
- No-load speed: 0-2200 RPM
- Blows: 0-6200 BPM
- Impact Energy: 1.5 ft-lbs
- Power Output: 330W
- Hand/Arm Vibrations: 7.9 m/s^2 (Source)
- Sound Pressure: 87dB (a)
- Weight: 2.6 kg (5.73 lbs)
Street Price: $210
Buy Now(via Amazon)
In addition to being compact from an ergonomics standpoint, the new D25052K rotary hammer also has a narrow nose that could help it fit into areas larger tools just can’t go.
The rotary hammer also features a reversible gearbox and rotary-only mode, so you could use it with an SDS drill chuck adapter for occasional fastener removal tasks. The ability to spin bits in reverse also comes in handy for releasing bits that have jammed or bound up.
The built-in clutch is designed to reduce sudden high-torque reactionary forces, such as the wrist-wrenching motions users experience when a bit jams up or binds during drilling.
According to the product listing at Amazon, the D25052K rotary hammer is made in the Czech Republic.
Unrelated to this particular model but possibly of interest:
According to the Contractor Supply Mag, Dewalt has been working on a new electronic clutch, and we have heard from Dewalt that their upcoming 1-7/8″ hammer D25723K ($915 via Amazon) will be the only new model to have this E-Clutch Anti-Rotational Technology feature.
Dewalt is not the only brand that has been building tools with new or improved safety features that help protect users. Some of Bosch’s new cordless drills feature built-in kickback-reduction engineering, or Electronic Rotation Control (ERC), which is centered around an accelerometer that sends a signal to kill power to the motor if sudden twisting is detected.
Noobie question here: What’s the difference between a rotary hammer and a hammer drill? The reason I’m asking is I’m planning a spring project to install low voltage landscape lighting with a heavy duty transformer located in the basement with several runs of low voltage wire headed in different directions from that one transformer. I need to drill a couple of holes through brick or concrete. I was looking at a couple of corded hammer drills to purchase, with use on future projects. One other reason for the purchase would be a “heavy duty” replacement of an ancient corded drill that I occasionally use. But I saw this review and I’m not sure what would be the better category of tool to purchase.
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Generally, you can think of hammer drills as having more of a vibratory action, while rotary hammers have a more piston-like action.
If your primary use will be drilling holes in masonry, then the rotary hammer is the better tool for the job.
I bought a corded hammer drill and occasionally use it for non-masonry-drilling. I also bought it to use with small polishing wheels every now and then, because it has a much faster motor and gearbox than non-hammering corded drills.
It also depends on the size of holes you’re looking to make. If 1/4″, then a rotary hammer might be overkill.
Rotary hammers typically cost more than hammer drills.
The interface is different. With a hammer drill, you need masonry bits with smooth shanks. With a rotary hammer, you use SDS bits. If you want to use smooth-shank bits with a rotary hammer, you need an adapter which runs $40 or so.
For casual around-the-home use, a hammer drill might be better. If you ever have a big project where you need to drill many large holes in brick or concrete, you could always rent a rotary hammer.
I would point out that the SDS (now mostly SDS-Plus and SDS-Max interfaces probably do allow for more torque application with less slippage. There are also a few electric tools out in the market that use spline drive – but electric hex drive (originally larger electric rotohammers seemed to favor this style) tools have seemed to have disappeared. Hex drives still seem to dominate the pneumatic market.
I like that they provide lots of specs, but some of those mean nothing to me. I mean, Hand/Arm Vibrations: 7.9 m/s^2?
Vibration is measured in terms of acceleration, which has units meters per second squared.
This figure, 7.9 m/s^2, could be used as a comparison figure, for those interested in shopping around for tools that impart the lowest hand and arm vibrations, but it’s also used in determining safe usage parameters.
With hand/arm vibrations of 7.9 m/s^2, it is NOT safe to use this tool for 8 hours straight, at least not without a lot more dampening.
Vibrations of more than 5.0 m/s^2 over an 8-hour period can lead to serious health risks. Vibrations of more than 2.5 m/s^2 have the potential to lead to symptoms in some individuals.
I previously could not find good references from the CDC or OSHA, but the US Army and European organizations provide a lot of information about hand/arm vibration control and practical limitations. This is possibly why the vibration specs and noise level measurements are often found in European datasheets and not USA ones.
US Army Pocket Guide (PDF)
I understand the difference between the rotary hammer vs hammer drill, but my question is would this make a good corded drill (with an appropriate SDS to Chuck adapter) for occasional use in wood as well as concrete? I have my 18v dewalt cordless impact and hammer drill, that I use now and that gets me 95% of the way there but sometimes batteries die on longer jobs and I have to wait for recharging them. I would be purchasing this for the purpose of chiseling tile/concrete and the occasional hole in concrete as it’s main function, but since I don’t have a corded drill I was wondering on how well this would work as that function drill in wood or the occasional decking screw.
From what I’ve read, this hammer only has rotary + hammer and rotary-only modes. There doesn’t look to be a hammer-only/chiselling mode.
Honestly, for about the same money, I think you would be better off with a D-handle rotary hammer and an inexpensive drill with 3/8″ chuck.
The D-handle hammer would have a hammer-only mode, which would be better for chiseling tile and concrete, and for drilling the occasional hole in concrete, and the corded drill would be more ergonomic for occasional drilling and driving tasks when your cordless batteries are recharging.
I have never used a rotary hammer with a drill chuck, so I can’t tell you how well or poorly it works for drilling holes in wood or driving screws.
This *could* be used for non-masonry drilling and driving tasks, but personally I would only use it in such a way as a last resort.
I didn’t realize that this drill didn’t have a hammer only function. That is seems like a major short coming of the drill. I appreciate the advice and I was looking at one of the Bosch rotary hammers anyway at the moment. (RH228 or RH328) Still trying to decide which style I prefer at the moment. The longer skinnier body vs the squarer body.
There are other models that do offer hammer-only modes.
The decision not to add a hammer-only mode could have been based on different things. Maybe it was to keep the cost down, maybe it was to forego more power for less weight and smaller form factor.
Isn’t it better for there to be no chisel-mode rather than an under-powered chisel mode?
I read that Dewalt will be releasing “a whole range” of new rotary hammers this year. So maybe there will be a new hammer in this size that does have a hammer-only mode.
The D handle version of this tool has the chipping function. D25023 is the model number and it’s also 6.9 Amps. There is an 8.0 Amp Pistol Grip (D25123K) and D-Handle (D25213K) version with Chipping function too if you needed the extra power.
UPDATE: The post has been updated to reflect that the D25052K will feature a built-in clutch, and not the E-clutch that we initially heard about.