A reader asked a series of great questions, about whether to complement their cordless drill with an impact driver.
The short answer is yes – impact drivers deliver higher torque than most cordless drills, and provide performance benefits with respect to application speed.
Not everyone might need an impact driver, but there are definitely benefits even when a cordless drill can power through tougher fastening tasks.
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John wrote:
Without understanding how torque ratings translate into real world applications, I can’t decide if adding Milwaukee’s entry-level M18 impact driver to my tool bag would be worthwhile.
I currently have an M18 Drill-Driver (2801-20) with a Torque rating of 500 in-lbs and have come close to needing more torque power on a couple of occasions.
I don’t want to find myself in the middle of a repair in an awkward, difficult to access space where insufficient driving force would cost me more in time, energy, potential injury, etc. by not having an impact driver available!
So, I’m curious what DIY-Homeowner situations/materials I could run into, where others had wished for torque over 500 in-lbs, if not over 1,000?
There are a lot of overlapping questions here. The biggest question I see is whether John should upgrade to an impact driver or not, but I’ll have to work my way there.
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When digging into brands’ product spec sheets or user manuals, they will sometimes provide guidance as to their tools’ application limits.
A tool brand might say their cordless drill has a maximum drilling capacity of 1/2″ in steel, or 2″ in wood. These tend to be rough guidelines, and many brands don’t provide these application limits.
You’re not going to find a torque table that assigns torque levels to real-world tasks.
Let’s say you want to drill a 3/4″ hole in wood. The same drill might deliver different output levels when drilling the same size hole, depending on the type of wood and type of drill bit.
It’s hard to identify exactly how much torque one needs in a drill. Most of the time, it’s a binary decision – either a drill has enough power, or it doesn’t.
I would say there are 2 classifications of cordless drill torque.
Compact – 300-600 in-lbs torque
Higher Power – 650-1000 in-lbs and up
With a cordless drill, the higher speed setting delivers lower torque delivery, and the lower speed setting delivers higher torque delivery.
Because of this, impact drivers will typically deliver faster fastening application speeds. With an impact driver, the faster the speed, the greater the torque delivery, due to how it works.
When driving larger or longer fasteners, you will have to exert effort to hold the cordless drill steady. If you don’t, the rotational energy can twist the drill from your hands. Impact drivers deliver non-reactive torque, and so there’s far less worry about kickback sending the tool spinning.
The 2801 is Milwaukee’s M18 compact brushless drill. The next step up would be their pricier M18 Fuel model.
For driving tasks, such as John indicated being interested in, an impact driver would be a great addition.
Cordless drills, with their adjustable torque clutches, are still fantastic for driving smaller and medium sized fasteners. But for larger or longer screws, or things like lag bolts, impact drivers often have speed and torque advantages.
Back to the original question, as to how a drill or driver relates to a DIYer’s household needs. What material are you drilling into? Wood studs through drywall? How old is the wood? Are there knots? What types of screws are being used? Do you drill pilot holes first?
There are too many variables to be able to say “this is how much torque you need to drive a #10 wood screw.”
In my experience, it typically comes down to trial and error, except when the application can be well characterized. In a factory production line, a self-threading screw might be driven into a plastic housing at an exact torque. But in residential and many commercial environments, materials change, as do the fasteners or accessories being used. The torque required to drill holes can vary wildly, even from hole to hole with no change in material or drill bit.
In a DIY or home environment, drilling larger holes in harder wood or harder metals such as steel will typically call for greater torque than the roughly 500 in-lbs compact drills can deliver.
The same is true for driving larger or longer fasteners, such as 3-inch lag screws into 2x construction lumber.
I can build an outdoor raised garden bed from 2x cedar or cypress wood boards far quicker with an impact driver than just a drill. I use a compact cordless drill for quick pilot holes, and then an impact to fasten everything together.
Even when using smaller fasteners for certain parts of the construction, an impact driver is quicker. Not only that, it’s more compact and lighter, too, which is very welcome when working overhead.
It’s a great idea to start with a compact drill. Personally, I use compact drills more than heavy duty models, as I don’t have to drill larger holes too often. But when I need a hole saw, larger drill bit for wood, or other more demanding drill bit, compact drills are rarely enough.
An impact driver is, in my opinion, an indispensable complement to any cordless drill.
The higher torque is part of the reason, but it also comes down to application speed.
Even if one were to upgrade to a heavy duty or extreme torque cordless drill, most impact drivers will complete the same fastening tasks in a fraction of the time.
Referring to our guide to Milwaukee cordless drills, their top of the line M18 Fuel 2903 and 2904 brushless drill and hammer drill deliver 1400 in-lbs max torque, and with 0-500 and 0-2100 RPM speed ranges.
To get that 1400 in-lbs max torque, you’ll need to be in the 0-500 RPM speed range.
Let’s say you go with Milwaukee’s M18 compact brushless impact driver, which is a $99 promo at Home Depot right now (and seasonally) for the tool with a battery and charger. It delivers up to 1600 in-lbs max torque and 3200 RPM. In most cases, it should outperform Milwaukee’s best cordless drill in fastener driving tasks.
John said that they have:
come close to needing more torque power on a couple of occasions
If you’re pushing your cordless drill to the limit, it might be a good idea to expand your tool kit.
For drilling tasks, a higher power drill might be a good option. For fastening tasks, I would definitely recommend an impact driver, not just for its higher torque but also its speed, compact size, and lower weight.
Do you agree or disagree with my opinion on this? How would you answer the same question?
Jared
I agree that if you’re approaching the limits of your drill, you probably need another tool. If you’re deciding between a higher-torque drill or adding a impact driver, I think that depends somewhat on what you’re using those tools for.
If it’s drilling that’s taxing your… drill, then maybe you just need a higher torque drill. You can drill with an impact driver, especially with spade bits, but it’s less versatile in that role since you’re locked into a set bit size.
An impact driver is a much different experience than just a higher torque drill. When driving a tough screw, the twisting torque of a high-power drill can cause bits to slip, chew up the fastener head and require more strength to keep steady. Even when approaching an impact driver’s limits, it’s not really an issue to hold it one-handed.
While I would recommend buying a drill before an impact driver, I would also recommend an impact driver before upgrading a compact drill.
frobo
Jared, I agree completely with your final conclusion. Having said that, I can also say that as a fairly serious DIYer, I rarely have a need for my impact, and tend to rely on my drills for 99% of my work. The impact is great when I need it; I just don’t need it very often.
Jerry
I’m the other way. Since I got a set of i.pact duty drill bits, I use my impact driver much more often than my drill. Just the torque reaction reduction when using larger bits alone is reason enough to grab it over the drill the majority of the time.
Bonnie
Same. I’ll reach for the impact 95% of the time. Got a decent set of impact drill bits, and spades for running electrical and the like. The handheld drill is only really used when I don’t want to be swapping bits or I’m drilling into concrete/masonry. For the really big asks like a 6″ holesaw I’m going corded anyways.
TomD
The M12 Surge does almost everything I do now. I know where it is. I don’t even know where my drills are.
Badger12345
I too am hooked on my M12 surge and use it for most jobs except where I need relatively clean holes, then I will dig out a decent drill.
Aaron SD
The other bonus of the impact is that it is easier to change bits with the quick release. I’d use a drill only if I have a bunch of pilot holes and screw to avoid changing often. For just a couple holes no big deal.
Jeremiah James McKenna
You can get one of those quick release Collettes that attach to tue chuck.
Steve L
The lead-in picture shows a hole being drilled. Maybe you need two pictures, second picture shows a screw being driven.
I use a drill to make a hole. I use an impact driver to turn a screw. Have 20V high torque drill & driver and 12V low torque, compact drill and driver. Use all four, pick the one best suited for I want to do. Use the 12V more often, can do a lot with a low torque compact tool.
Mechanicmatt
This is the right answer. Like some people are answering on here, I used to only use a drill for most things. I did a stint working and a furniture manufacturer, and all the elite carpenter. The guys that work there used a drill for the holes, and an impact with a 2 to 4-in impact rated screw bit for torx or Philips or square heads to drive wood screws. It really worked beautifully, and I do the same ever since at home.
I have a Ryobi 18 volt pair and a Bosch 12 volt pair, and usually use the Bosch for most of the work I do.
Stephen
I wasn’t sure if I would need an impact driver in my DIY tool arsenal, so I started with a small inexpensive one. In reality I only grab it when I need to DRIVE things, primarily when driving screws and bolts into or out of wood. I don’t use it much but I think its worth having one on hand when a drill won’t quite do it.
eddie sky
I drill holes with a drill. If it has hammerdrill feature, I use “specified mason bits” with it.
I screw in screws with a driver. It should have a clutch setting as to not over tighten if set.
I use impact driver for lags and bolts/nuts. I do not use impact driver with screws, nor with non-impact related bits/sockets.
Chaz
Technically no. Us DIYers are bad at impact drivers, going all willy nilly in a hurry. Need the discipline to use them straight in and level, not driving them past the finish or stud, etc.
Pre drill using drill bit, drill in fastener.
So many kits are impact and drill.
DIY should be something like a hammer drill and a subcompact drill or a right angle, or a impact ratchet.
I do have impacts, I do love them, but gosh, mistakes can happen in a second with some of these modern cordless impacts. They go through stuff so fast now.
JW
I personally don’t use my impact drivers a lot these days. Drills used to be much weaker than impact drivers but I don’t think that’s still the case now. Especially when driving long screws into softwood I find the drill is a lot faster because the wood just absorbs the impact force.
I grab the impact drivers usually only when I have to use phillips head screws because drills will easily chew up the head, or when I need multiple types of bits and don’t want to keep changing bits.
Steven+B
Definitely need it or a power screwdriver, which I prefer. I use the DeWalt 12v power screwdriver because it has a torque setting and I can use it in an enclosed space without hearing protection. Installing shelves with an impact driver in a closet is a recipe for hearing loss.
However, it saves so much time. As a DIY-er, I have a dayjob and demanding kids. If carrying 2 tools to the spot saves 5 minutes and dealing with dropped screwdriver or drill bits, then it’s worth it. I also am fighting my own short attention span. Having what I need right there and ready is definitely worth a $100 1-time purchase that has lasted me over 20 years so far.
I use an impact driver for lag bolts or concrete screws and tend to use my power screwdriver for everything else. I always prefer having a different tool for driving than drilling.
MM
Is an impact driver strictly required? No, unless you are driving large fasteners the drill cannot turn. Is the impact driver a better tool for screws? Usually. It’s faster, it’s typically a smaller/lighter tool, it’s faster to switch bits, and there is less reaction torque back at the handle. It’s also safer in the event of a bind-up. If you have to both drill holes and set fasteners then it is easier to swap tools than it is to swap bits.
When I was first getting into tools I had only a drill as I couldn’t afford both. Once I got an impact driver it is rare that I use a drill for screws, now I only use a drill when I want the mechanical clutch for small screws.
Jared
Good point about the clutch. Higher-tier impact drivers usually have two or three power settings that can help with smaller fasteners, but it’s not the same as a clutch on a drill. Impacts are less precise and the operator needs some coordination to avoid over-driving fasteners.
The trade-off is the power, weight, speed, safety, etc. stuff you mentioned.
MM
I like the variable power settings on impact drivers, mainly because they are so powerful these days that you could very easily overdrive or break many common fasteners if you aren’t careful and the tool is running at full power. My DCF895 is several years old so it’s not as powerful as today’s models, but even so I nearly always have it on setting “1”. Even on that setting it will happily drive 3 1/2″ no. 10 exterior screws. But in my opinion those torque settings are no replacement for a mechanical clutch. Not only is the precision lower but even on setting “1” the torque is just too high for many jobs.
Adam
There is a safety advantage to impact drivers over powerful drills. Might need hearing protection, but I’d rather see my dad use an impact than wreck his wrist.
If you are just looking at an impact to add, then maybe the hydraulic based one would be enough power. Seems some hesitation to the tool is the noise
Scott F
DIYer here who was drill-only for several years, and after buying the impact driver fell in love. I use it 99% of the time now – it does a much better job than drill at long screws and lags as everybody is mentioning, and is a lot shorter in the nose/easier to deal with. Also quick swap of bits is nice, I keep a 2″ T25 in the chuck and 2″ phillips in the bit storage next to the battery.
Drill is better at drilling, and I don’t often use an impact for any drilling save Spade bits where speed helps, and little holes that can be imprecise – I did buy the 1/4″ shank drill bit set because it’s nice to have quick change ability.
My only drilling/driving tool for a long time was the M12 Fuel Gen2 non-hammer drill – I definitely have gone over capacity with it with hole saws, but otherwise it takes what I throw at it pretty well. But it is basically relegated to drilling duties these days because the experience of the impact driver is just a lot better/nicer. Drill also comes out to play if I’m using different fastener types continuously to prevent constantly swapping bits…
In all, I personally would not want to go back to drill-only, and would highly recommend adding an impact driver to the arsenal next, over adding a bigger drill.
Michael F
Has anyone else seen that guy on YouTube shorts trying to prove impact drivers are stupid? Just curious.
Chaz
No. I did see a thumbnail of the opposite but never clicked on it.
Farmerguy
The small (or none on specials) price difference to add a impact driver with a kit makes sense for a buyer to experience both and have them both accessible as they see fit.
Franco Calcagni
Agreed, specials for 1 or the 2 in a kit is often the same or too small to warrant just the one.
Jeff
There needs to be more talk about regular, non-impact, bit drivers. Those are what people need in their lives. With a small set of cheap quick change drill bits, you can do so much stuff around the house. Add a small (or large) drill and you can handle larger holes. Add an impact driver and you can handle driving larger fasteners.
I just hate to see people driving screws with a drill. There’s nothing particularly wrong, but chucking bits in and out is annoying. A dedicated driver is such a luxury to have. Especially if it’s small.
And while an impact is great when you need it, it should be the last choice. They’re just loud and rarely have any torque control. It will do the job, but it’s overkill so much of the time.
The real winner for around the house, is a multi headed installation driver in my opinion. Bosch and Milwaukee make my favorites in 12V.
Michael
I have a lot of DeWalt tools, and my absolute favorite is the 12v screwdriver. So simple, versatile, and underrated. I’ve got two, one at home and one in my box at work (aviation maintenance). Definitely my most used tool in both places. I have the multi head drill at work too, it overlaps a fair amount with the driver but I’m occasionally tempted to double up on that one as well.
eddie sky
The little 12V Max driver? Yeah, that is my favorite. I also have their gyroscopic driver and long Milwaukee bits for when I assemble PCs or doing work with hinges or torque-sensitive connections.
Michael
I have two of the gyroscopic screwdriver as well, love them! Convertible handle at work and the regular fixed one at home.
Clay
Same! Love this thing!
Chaz
I have this at work, I love it.
A W
DIYer and one of my favorite tools is my M18 Surge (quiet) impact driver. It’s much better at driving long screws or lags into 2x material than a drill is. And with larger impact rated drill bits, it’s better in any situation where a drill would kick back.
I use a drill for precision work, including pilot holes. I got away with just a drill for a while but not that I own an impact driver I end up using it for almost all fastening tasks.
I upgraded to the Surge model from a normal impact driver while building a tree fort and it has been incredibly useful as we slowly remodel our house.
Franco Calcagni
I also love my M18 Surge. Hard to put into words, but very different, in a great way, and although very different, it is subtle.
I know, doesn’t make sense, but the best thing is to try one for driving screws for 10-15 minutes, it is an impact, like all the others, but the subtle difference becomes more apparent as you use it…or pick up a regular impact.
Steve
I use an impact 90% of the time and a drill 10%. An impact can drill – it’s shorter, lighter and the impact action can give you a lot of extra grunt. Bit changes are very easy as well. I have 1/4″ drive drill bits up to 1/2″, spade bits around 1″ I use all the time. For bigger stuff or drilling in concrete, a good hammer drill is the way to go. Beyond the above sizes, hole saws and concrete bits are all with a drill. So, impact for just about anything threaded and small holes and a drill beyond this.
I have 2 Milwaukee Surge impacts and their latest (gen 4) hammer drill…
Scott K
Absolutely. You can definitely get by with one or the other, but if you think you need both, you likely will. From an efficiency standpoint, it’s really nice to drill a hole and then switch to the impact to drive a fastener. While you can use a magnetic bit holder in a drill, switching bits in an impact is much quicker which is great if you’re working with different types of fasteners on a single project. I also prefer the ergonomics of my impact when driving.
xu lu
Of course. Unless you like wasting time, effort and energy. The incremental cost is diminimis compared to value.
Shawn Y
The drill or impact driver decision was how I found this site about 8 years ago after becoming a homeowner. They seemed functionally the same to me but being my first big boy tool, I was scared the impact would destroy regular home DIY stuff. I settled on the DeWalt DCF895 because of the 3 torque settings feature +
this keyless chuck adapter: https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/763198-1 for non-hexed bits.
It worked well for me for years doing home DIY stuff in which I found the impact function very helpful. It was when I got more into making my own stuff that I realized that not all my holes ended up in the exact location. It was also here that I learned later in the comments that I needed a drill for more precision + ease of drilling into certain materials like metals. Since I was in the Dremel battery line too, I picked up the Bosch 12V 5in1 drill.
So… I guess I would have gone the same path as it didn’t even dawn on me the advantages of a drill til I started doing more than basic home stuff. Having learned about the potentially wobbliness of the impact does answer why some of my early home projects like putting up towel bars resulted in unaligned holes when I very clearly started the hole on my pencil mark.
MM
I love the DCF895 because of its trigger bit release. I find that much more convenient than the collar style that is so common. Unfortunately not very many impact drivers have that feature and the 895 is now discontinued.
Ray
As a DIYer I love my impact driver. I’d say it sees 80 percent usage to the drills 20. If all you have is a compact drill, the best move, in my opinion, is to get an upgraded combo kit around one of the holidays, and kill 2 birds with one stone.
If you have reached the limit on your compact,and are a serious DIYer then the day is coming when the mason bits and lag bolts are coming out and you’re going to need the power. And having a drill set to drill pilots and your impact to drive the fastener greatly speeds things up.
Steve
Just about everyone should have a drill and impact driver, you still the pilot hole with the drill then quickly switch to the impact driver to drive the screw, for that reason alone. So much faster than changing bits
George
Like so many things in life, the answer is: no, but you will never regret having one or not use it.
I have one I got with my 20v Dewalt drill and you can have it when either it expires or I do, whichever comes first.
Dave
I find an impact driver resists skipping out of a phillips bit much better than a drill and requires less axial force applied to the fastener to keep it from skipping/stripping out. Less of a concern for torx or other bit types but still can happen more with a drill.
So – drill for making holes and impact for driving fasteners.
Mike
I think using an impact driver once to drive in a tough screw will be enough to tell if it’s worth it. The issue for me was cam out/stripping the heads when using a drill. Doesn’t happen often with an impact driver.
Impact drivers have a rotating hammer that hits an anvil to create quick blows. The very short gaps between blows let’s the bit reseat and decreases chances of stripping the screw. Or at least that’s how I imagine it’s working.
Jeremiah D
For drilling applications occcasionally requiring higher torque another option ideal for diy types is a high torque corded drill. There are many available used now with many switching to cordless. You should be to find something quality like a hole hawg for under $100 and it will have as much or more torque than a cordless that you spend over $200 for. It should last the rest of your life with no battery platform considerations and the inconvenience is probably not bad if used only occasionally.
For fastening, especially lags and such, a higher torque impact is ideal.
If very occasionally needed keeping a ratchet and bit adapter in the kit as well as pilot drilling can compensate for a lower cost.
Chip
As a professional I use the m12 surge for 95% of my work,3% of the remaining is because the bit doesn’t fit a hex driver.
Pros of drills they have a clutch ….. over driven fastners either split wood…or do not hold.
Pros of an impact driver ,no chuck rubbing in tight places,bits last 10x longer .
Trigger control/using variable speed trigger ,and matching driver- screw angle is the key to better screwing.
An impact wrench should be used over 5/16 lag bolt ,or 1/4 inch screw IMHO.
As a professional I use an impulse driver most of the time,sds for drilling even small tapcons next,impact driver 3rd,and a drill absolutely last.
Jeremiah James McKenna
The other issue is being in a situation where you only have one hand to use while maybe on top of a ladder and hanging on with the other. An impact is going to be your saving grace compared to a drill driver.
Jeremiah James McKenna
We are all missing the real answer here. We always Need More Tools, regardless if we use them once or one million times. Come on gentlemen, we all know the answer he is looking for. “Yes.”
john
my dad uses his impact driver for everything, the drill not all the time
Franco Calcagni
I got my first impact in 2008. I was buying a 3 piece kit, which had an impact, which I thought I would not use, but the other 2 tools plus battery and charger were to good a deal to pass up. Boy…I fell in love with the impact.
Like many have said, you can do without, or you don’t really need one. BUT, that can be said of many tools, there is always an alternative that can work relatively well.
I have a least a dozen drills, and also a dozen or more impacts. I am a DIYer, in that I do not make money or a living at what I do. But I typically use my power tools 3 to 6 days a week. Too many things to do, and always new projects coming up.
Today, living without an impact would be tough.
For anyone on the fence about getting on an impact, don’t wait, just get it; you will be happy.
Charles
as a pro who owns too many impacts to count, the idea of working without an impact boggles my mind.
Bill
I recently experienced an excellent example of the need for more power/energy to get a job done. I had been planning to upgrade the electrical ground for my house, for several reasons, to a more dependable ground-rod system over the existing use of water pipes. Also included in this project was the use of some pyrotechnics to weld the ground cable to the two ground rods, but more on that part later.
Because NEC (National Electrical Code) calls for two, eight foot long x 5/8” diameter ground rods placed six feet apart, driven vertically into the ground, I knew the driving part could be a challenge in my rocky soil. While I have two SDS Plus hammer drills to choose from, a Bosch RH328VC and a Milwaukee 2715-20, I wasn’t all that confident either was up to the task. Despite having watched a few online videos of similarly sized SDS+ drivers used for the same task, none appeared robust.
So after selecting the site and doing a little digging and trenching I climbed my ladder to start the first rod with a hammer. After a few inches in, enough to stabilize the rod, I switched to using the Milwaukee driver. Well the Milwaukee was slow going and after a little more than foot or so down it stalled out and would drive the rod no further. Unsure if the rod had hit a large rock or simply reached its limit on power, I hopped in my truck and drove to HD tool rental. At HD I rented a Mikita HM1213C SDS-max along with the requisite driver bit. Still unsure if this would solve my problem, I hauled this 23 lb monster up the ladder and it was like the proverbial hot knife through butter. Unable to wipe the grin from my face, I actually had to restrain it from going too fast. Within seconds the top of first rod was about six inches below ground and in equal fashion the second rod was in place.
So what made the difference? In short it was the energy the SDS-max brings to the table. In looking up the stats, it becomes evident that at 25.5 joules of impact energy from the Makita is more than 5 times what my Milwaukee could muster. What a difference having the right tool for the job at hand can make.
Now to the fun stuff, the pyrotechnics!
It was a first for me, using the Erico, Cadweld One-Shot exothermic welding system to bond the #4 awg ground cable to the two ground rods I had just driven into the ground. You can look this up to get more details, but it’s a system that uses Thermit powder and an ignition powder contained in a ceramic crucible that you ignite once you align and enclose the wire on the end of the ground rod. Both ends proved relatively easy to setup and ignite, although I thought the pyrotechnics would be more spectacular Because this was my first time using this system, I was just hoping it would turn out as secure and completely bonded as I envisioned. In the end I was quite pleased with the results.
Oleg K
It depends if they need to both drill into a material and then fasten it. If they don’t need to drill into it then they can do without a drill and if they don’t need to fasten anything then they won’t need an impact.
I know plenty of people who swear by their drills and claim they never use an impact, they’re the absolute champions of destroyed screws, cracked bits, etc.