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ToolGuyd > Power Tools > Cordless > Why Powerful Drills MUST Have Auxiliary Handles

Why Powerful Drills MUST Have Auxiliary Handles

Jan 31, 2014 Stuart 19 Comments

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Heavier duty cordless and corded power drills and drivers often come packaged with auxiliary, or secondary, handles. Speaking from personal experience, auxiliary handles often make larger, heavier, and more powerful drills easier to balance, manage, and control.

But auxiliary handles aren’t just provided for user comfort, they’re there for increased user safety.

Until recently, I did not really think too much about this. It just made sense, that large/heavy/powerful drills should come with auxiliary handles.

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A few months ago I learned about a new compact hammer drill that was nearing release. When talking with a product manager about the new drill, I found it curious that the mentioned the new compact drill was so powerful that it required an auxiliary handle.

When I asked a brand representative about why an auxiliary handle was required for a compact and relatively lightweight drill, they said that this was done to satisfy updated UL certification guidelines that will soon be going into effect.

Digging deeper, I was informed by a product manager that UL standards now require that drills exceeding a certain torque that are so below a certain physical size (height, diameter, etc) must come with an auxiliary handle. This didn’t really clear things up, so I reached out to UL directly and had a nice long chat with a very friendly engineer there.

Understanding UL and UL Standards

UL, Underwriters Laboratories, is a US-based global independent safety science company that certifies, validates, tests, inspects, audits, advises, and trains. One of their primary missions is to inspect manufactured products, including power tools, against a series of safety guidelines. Products that meet UL requirements receive certification.

Essentially, UL is an independent testing organization focused on consumer safety.

Generally, and this is my interpretation of all I have read thus far, if UL approves or certifies a product, it could be considered safe to use as intended.

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UL approval means that a product was tested by UL experts and deemed to be safe to use.

That does not mean that products without UL approval are not safe to use. It just means that they are not certified by UL to be safe. For instance, I have a Micro-Mark drill press that is not UL certified, and understand that Grizzly Tools and other distributors of imported tools sell non-UL-certified tools as well. Certain imported products have CE markings, but that’s not the same thing.

With regard to the construction industry, OSHA 29 CFR 1926.302(a)(1) and 1926.403(a) requires that electrical tools and equipment be approved by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL), such as UL.

All electrical conductors and equipment shall be approved.

According to UL, there are no [United States] laws specifying that a UL Mark must be used. However, in the United States there are many municipalities that have laws, codes or regulations which require a product to be tested by a nationally recognized testing laboratory before it can be sold in their area.

Thus, while it is not compulsory for manufacturers to comply with UL safety standards and seek UL approval and certification, it is highly advisable.

Back to Drills

The UL modifies requirements as needs arise and in response to technological advancements. The latest modification to UL guidelines that govern cordless power drills was drafted in 2009 and put into effect Oct 7th, 2013. A UL safety engineer I spoke with has said that most manufacturers were already in compliance with the updated guidelines before it went into effect.

UL sometimes updates their guidelines to help harmonize US standards with international IEC standards and other export requirements. This way manufacturers don’t have to worry about designing their products to meet different sets of guidelines.

In terms of cordless drills and similar driving tools, the guidelines, including the requirement for auxiliary handles depending on power output and tool dimensions, is done to help prevent users from suffering unexpected injuries.

Holding onto a drill with one hand on the pistol grip and another hand on the auxiliary grip makes the drill much easier to control and stabilize in the case of recoil or reactive forces. For example, if a user is drilling into a wood stud and the bit binds or jams, the drill itself might twist around violently and potentially injure the user.

The UL guidelines are also there to help protect a variety of end users. Not everyone who uses power tools are tradesmen, industrial professionals, or DIYers. I have known artists, sculptors, scientists, and stage crews to use pro-grade power tools. UL-rated products are deemed safe to use by any user, regardless of body size or strength.

The UL Guideline for Common Power Drills

UL Guideline 60745-2-1, section 19.101 specifies that:

The force on the hand due to static stalling torque shall not be excessive.

Torque is a function of force and the distance at which force is applied. An auxiliary handle that is effectively longer than a drill’s pistol grip handle increases the reaction force that a user can oppose. It can help to think about lever arms and see-saws.

UL Requirement for Max Power Cordless Drill Handles

This information is provided for the purpose of editorial discussion. For the most accurate reference information, please consult official UL guidelines. The following discussion reflects my personal interpretation of the limited information supplied to me by UL.

Since I could not republish the images from UL’s guidelines, I picked out a suitable image of a Dewalt cordless drill to work with.

In the image above, I have drawn two lines, a and b, which denote two lengths – a: the length of the pistol grip handle, and b: the length of the auxiliary handle. Both lengths are to be supplied in meters, and are taken from the center of drill rotation to the bottom of the handles.

For the purpose of UL guidelines, 0.04 meters, or about 1.57 inches, is subtracted from a and b to yield L1 and L2.

To meet Ul guidelines, a cordless drill’s maximum reaction torque must not exceed 400 times the length of the handle, in newton-meters.

Consider a cordless drill with a 6-inch handle. This is 0.1524 meters. Subtracting 0.04 meters gives us an L1 length of 0.1124. Therefore, the maximum reaction torque must not exceed 44.96 NM, or about 400 inch-pounds in order to meet UL guidelines.

Let’s say the drill is designed such that a 7-inch auxiliary handle can be attached. This would be 0.1778 meters. Subtract the 0.04 meters to yield a value of 0.1378 for L2. As per the above equation, a maximum reaction torque of 55.12 NM, or 488 inch-pounds is allowable in order for the drill to meet UL guidelines.

The same guidelines apply to both corded and cordless pistol-grip power drills.

A Note About Maximum Reaction Torque

Cordless drills are tested by UL such the maximum reaction torque does not exceed a magnitude of 400 x the length of grippable handle area.

UL engineers measure a drill’s maximum reaction torque, which is the static stalling torque, by:

  1. Connecting the drill to its rated voltage
  2. Adjusting the mechanical gearing to the lowest speed setting
  3. Setting any electronic control to its maximum speed setting
  4. Powering the drill in its full “on” position

The mean measured value of stalling torque of a drill should not exceed the value calculated via the equations above and which are determined by the drill’s geometry.

Summary

I always thought that auxiliary handles were provided because two handles often make powerful drills more controllable. While this might still be true, the relationship between drill handle length, auxiliary handle length, and drill power is a lot more involved, at least for manufacturers that are seeking UL certification for their products.

UL-rated drills can still cause injuries, but if a cordless drill meets UL guidelines and passed certification, it generally means that the force on the hand due to static torque is not excessive, at least by their judgement.

I don’t mean to suggest that auxiliary handles are only provided to meet UL certification guidelines, as they do provide improved user comfort, control, and safety. Reaction torque is one of many things that UL looks at when evaluating power drills for certification.

I should point out that this all applies to cordless drills that have reactionary torque. Impact drivers and impact wrenches do not create reactionary torques, and thus this is why you don’t see compact impact tools with side hands.

While this article mainly focuses on auxiliary handles from a UL safety certification standpoint, I hope it prompts you to think about tool designs in general and how everything must be balanced.

This all also explains why power tool brands often engineer their new drills and drivers below a certain power/torque ceiling. Yes, they probably can design new drills capable of delivering over 750 in-lbs of torque, but not without taking main pistol grip and auxiliary handle lengths into consideration.

Related posts:

Dewalt 20V Max Impact Driver MotorDewalt Cordless Power Tools, UWO, and Torque – Here’s What it all Really Means Greenworks Cordless Drill 2X More Torque ClaimGreenworks’ “2X More Torque” Cordless Drill Marketing Claims

Sections: Cordless, Drills & Drivers, Editorial, Tool Science 101

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19 Comments

  1. Ross

    Jan 31, 2014

    I’d be curious to look up the specs for a Milwaukee Hole Hawg to see how long the auxiliary handle should be for one of them. I know the one my dad has can yank me around pretty well. He has a 4-5/8″ self-feeding bit for it and it can be pretty vicious.

    Reply
    • Stuart

      Jan 31, 2014

      With something like the Hole Hawg (link), the handle is long enough to where an aux handle might be required for UL certification.

      With compact drill/drivers, an aux handle is not the only way to meet UL guidelines; product teams could instead re-size their tools’ handles to be longer, but this could make their drills undesirably long from an ergonomics perspective.

      Reply
  2. fred

    Jan 31, 2014

    Thanks for this informative and pretty thorough piece. You probably know that folks like UL and Factory Mutual fortunately (or unfortunately) need to maintain anti-counterfeiting operations. A few years back I recall seeing a piece in This Old House Magazine that talked about this problem – and have seen items from time to time about fraudulent UL labels on everything from solar panels to extension cords.

    On the topic of torque reaction, I think that I’ve posted before that we had often resorted to using 1/2 or 3/4 inch impact wrenches – fitted with add-on Jacobs Chucks to drill into large timbers and structural steel (e.g. wide flanges) when we had to do this by hand. I think that the first time I saw this technique it was being used by a linemen installing hardware on a telephone pole – using an impact wrench and a ship auger. Holding onto a pipe auxiliary handle on a big drill (we used 1680 Super Hole Hawgs with selfeeds – and sometimes pulled out a Milwaukee 1854 3/4 inch chuck drill) often gave a false sense of security. A better strategy – when available was to brace the auxiliary handle against the proverbial “immovable object” capable of taking the “immutable force” . Of course getting you fingers in between the two was something to be avoided.

    Reply
  3. Michael Quinlan

    Jan 31, 2014

    I’d be interested to see what UL determined the reaction torque to be on DeWalt tools with UWO ratings.

    Reply
  4. Chris Fyfe

    Jan 31, 2014

    I never use mine , with the exception of the Hole Hog . I will confess to removing the handle to get in tight spaces .

    Chris

    Reply
    • Tom Inger

      Nov 4, 2018

      I just got home after setting 60 metal posts for a fence 10 ft fence and got to a spot where auger would not work and used post hole diggers and sharp shooter, got to 16 inches and ran into sand stone, very hard like concrete so grabbed a few desalt hammer drill a big on ??? The size but took the safety handle off due to the hole diameter it would not fit so I used one hand on drill not thinkin that this is hard stuff and got in a bind and I twisted to (you know what) out of my wrist and hand so here I am swollen can’t move 2 fingers and if someone try’s to shake my hand they are beat. Anyway bad deal lots of pain. Come on whiskey lol

      Reply
  5. Dave L

    Jan 31, 2014

    I once saw a guy get his wrist broken drilling a metal door with a 2 1/8 hole saw…and it caught. This with a corded Milwaukee D-handle (without side handle).

    Reply
    • Kevin

      Jan 31, 2014

      yeah I had a close call with my milwaukee hole shooter, years ago I was drilling through a 4×4 post and two 2x 8 girders, something caught, almost broke my wrist and got thrown off a ladder

      Reply
      • Jason

        Feb 1, 2014

        Bosch is putting in accelerometers to help with the issues of drills binding up and causing injuries. Hilti also has it on some of their rotary hammers also. It’s a great idea more companies should jump on board with it.

        Reply
        • Jerry

          Feb 1, 2014

          Things like this are why I use the clutch on my drills whenever possible. I have found that most of the time, the highest setting is enough for whatever I am drilling, but will ratchet if it snags, rather than injure me. Also, for drilling holes in metal with a twist drill, having the clutch at just a high enough setting so it won’t slip during operation, goes a long way in preventing a chipped twist drill bit from chipping when it comes through. If it catches, the clutch slips, and I just reverse the bit out, which often clears the hole. Saved many a bit sharpening this way.

          Reply
  6. jesse

    Feb 1, 2014

    When I was at Bell Labs there were many pieces of sophisticated test equipment from the big-name manufacturers that had no UL labels. The reason – the nature of the UL testing was ultimately more or less destructive, and the equipment was so expensive that the manufacturers did not want to sacrifice them for the sake of a UL label. Nobody at Bell Labs was concerned.

    Reply
    • Paul

      Feb 1, 2014

      I’ll venture that Bell labs has their own specs when ordering those tools that specified the safety criteria.

      I worked in Nuclear Power for years and U.L. wasn’t as much of a requirement as the tools meeting the needs of what we wanted it to do. (And had the paper trail to prove that it would meet those needs) Like Bell Labs some of the uses were so specific that the manufactures made only 100 or so of that tool.

      Reply
    • firefly

      Feb 4, 2014

      UL labels are just safety certification, I really think they are a must for the general public. For a true engineering shop, I wouldn’t be so concern… unless you got really dumb engineer working for you.

      Like Paul said, most establish engineering shop will have their own safety spec anyway. For a new shop, the UL or any other safety standard are good go to guide to devise your own.

      Reply
  7. joe

    Feb 7, 2014

    From personal experience I have found that drilling in to metal is the most high risk for hurting a wrist or even fracturing it. From what I have noticed, lower RPM drills require less down force than higher RPM drills….cannot quite understand the science behind it but if I don’t follow the on the job acquired experience, I will for sure end up where the drill bit takes a big bite of the metal where it cannot chew where it gets stuck, the energy to stop the drill from spinning goes to your hand and jerks it to make it stop.

    I tend to use a little bit of motor oil to lubricate the drilling if I’m drilling into thick metal (or even 1/8) and I hold the battery button part of the drill with my other hand, in effect using the drill grip as an auxiliary handle.

    Also, I accustom to clamp down the metal piece because, if small enough, that thing can spin on you and hurt some fingers. Even drilling small metal pieces can give a nice jerk. One of the guys working with me on metal fence installing a doorknob got a nice hit on his arm with my drill battery…

    Reply
    • Stuart

      Feb 7, 2014

      Metal absolutely should always be clamped down, especially smaller and thinner pieces.

      Reply
  8. OnTheWeb

    Mar 17, 2015

    Split studs and a hole saw will get you every time. Pinches the saw like no tomorrow, guaranteed to stop the hole saw cold which gets ugly on the wrist very quickly.

    Reply
  9. Simon

    Jul 29, 2015

    That IEC guideline is about to be updated soon as manufactures are abusing it by making longer and longer auxiliary handles which is contrary to the purpose of the guideline. The new guideline will consider the position of the on/off switch in the calculation of the max. torque.

    Reply
  10. martin Davies

    Jan 27, 2016

    Could you please explain to me why the clutch system failed on a hilti multi drill while I was boring a hole out for an air vent, the chuck locked and the drill kept rotating & caused an injury to my shoulder

    Reply
  11. David B. Schwartz

    Aug 12, 2016

    Changing from my AC Holeshooter to the new 18v DC cordless drill increased the torque so much that instead of binding up and stalling in metal it broke loose and I ended up with 4 stitches on a finger. I think that thing would break your arm before it bound up. I see that with the new technology it behaves like a different way tool. Going to be attentive to the clutch and use an aux handle.

    That sucker out to have a shear pin in it set 5lbs less than the force required to break bones!

    Good, though.

    Reply

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