When I need a low-profile adjustable wrench to fit narrow spaces, I reach for my Stanley MaxSteel 6″ wrench. It has narrow tapered jaws that in places my other adjustable wrenches just cannot go.
This Engineer thin jaw adjustable wrench (TWM-07) doesn’t just have narrow jaws like my Stanley wrench, it has machined-down super-thin jaws that are just 2mm thick. This is the adjustable wrench you want when nothing else will fit, except maybe for bicycle cone wrenches.
The wrench geometry makes it optimized for tightening operations, but in a lot of cases it can fit in the reverse direction for loosening operations.
The wrench measures about 6.5″ long and has a maximum jaw opening of 0.94″. Engineer makes these adjustable wrenches in Japan.
Buy Now(via Amazon)
Engineer also makes a 4-inch “Pocket” version of this wrench (TWM-08) with the same jaws and a molded handle grip.
Buy Now(Pocket version via Amazon)
Update: there’s also a 6.14″ soft-gripped version as well.
Buy Now(6.14″ soft-gripped version via Amazon)
I have mixed feelings about whether this is a tool worth buying, except with specific uses in mind. On one hand, I can think of a few times when the thin jaws would have come in handy and saved me time and effort. On the other hand, the thin jaws probably make the adjustable wrench less suitable for heavier duty tasks. It seems like a better tool for an electronics or specialty tool kit, for users that encounter thin nuts and fitting flats on a regular basis.
Looking at the Amazon site, I see even they are having a hard time figuring out the necessity of this wrench. The examples show could easily be done with a regular adjustable wrench, or even better, just use the right size wrench from a set.
Now back in my misspent youth, we used to take Craftsman wrenches, which were cheap but decent quality, and grind the jaws to thin them down or grind the box end to reduce their thickness to made what we called “header wrenches” – they allowed use to kinda sorta tighten the bolts of the close quarters custom exhausts which tended to loosen up and leak. Modding an inexpensive wrench will usually be the cheapest and smallest alternative to service a poorly designed assembly.
Kurt, must not have a lot of mechanical experience. This type of equipment comes in handy when working tight spaces. They also make wrenches that they call skinny wrenches. Its the same concept. Working on a lot of HVAC equipment requires skinny wrenches.
I carry the smaller one in my EDC pouch at work. It comes in quite handy and so far has held up pretty well (a few nicks in the jaws, that’s all).
Well maybe I’m just an early morning coffee shop impulse buyer (so true) but this seems particularly legit to me. I just ordered the very last stubby version on the the big Brazilian river.
So thank you Stuart for bringing this oddity to our collective attention. Really.
(I’ve actually had a number of odd uses for just such a wrench and never thought to explore the marketplace. Or do a likely shitty grind down of an otherwise decent regular tool)…
The body of the tool is “normal”, so when you start cranking on it (which you probably shouldn’t), you may torque or bend the jaws. This is a good one for bringing a fastener almost tight, then possibly using a chisel or other implement to drive it home by tapping it with a hammer to apply force on the flats.
Eight or nine years ago I purchased a set of Lisle thin metal open-end wrenches (SAE) to get into tight spots. They are stamped rather than forged, and have the the same thickness their whole length. However, they appear to have enough meat on them to not twist into a pretzel if used correctly. Sizing is from 3/16″ on up to 1-1/8″ in openings; they range from 1/8″ thick to about 5/32″. on the largest. Lisle also made a metric set, as I recall. I’ve never had an occasion to use them, although I loaned them to a guy at work to use in a tight spot, and they were just what he needed. I noted that they are stamped “Warning: Low Torque Only”, so be careful when using these or any other similar tool (wear gloves and safety eye wear or a face shield.
Another possibility if space is a problem is to use crowfoot wrenches with a ratchet and an extension. That takes your hand and a lot of the tool out of the equation when space is at a premium.
I’ve had a few situations where a standard wrench was too thick and had to improvise in some less than satisfactory fashion. I think I’ll buy this thing actually; an entire set of flat wrenches is a bit silly for my occasional use but this can do the job. Generally thin nuts with limited clearance aren’t high torque items so I think the flimsy adjustable wrench is fine.
This is freaky… I was in my shop trying to get a small pneumatic random orbital sander chuck loose, and busted my knuckles with the 3″ long stamped wrenches I could make fit in the small slot. I got mad and came into the house. There, on my screen, was your review of this tool….3 clicks, and $29.93 and it will be here before my knuckles heal….Thanks!
I work on bicycles enough to see a use for this. A full set of park tools cone wrenches aren’t always the easiest thing to lug around. I try to avoid using adjustable when I can use “the right tool” but in the case of bike hubs, the torque values are pretty low and cone wrenches spread easy enough anyway, so assuming these are relatively tight I think they would work perfect for a mobile bike toolbox.
Wow, Like Jesse I can see a use for this as a bike mechanic. I had often thought of trying to grind my own version of this tool but I could not figure out how to do it and not somehow wreck the wrench in the process.
Yet another tool that I had no idea existed until Toolguyd enlightened me.
Wow. i’ll have to order the small one. I occasionally run into a need for a wrench just like this once a month. I got the smaller one to try and prevent me from torqueing too much on it lol
I have a TWM-03 and a TWM-08 – very handy for slim-profile jam nuts.
These are exactly what ive needed numerous times around the shop.
The slim profile of the jaws is really handy for jam nuts and such.
Engineer makes some nice stuff in my experiences with their products. Thanjs Stu for sharing.
Bacho has an adjustable with machined down jaws like these and has done for many years, not quite as thin as those ones though.
Just been and looked in one of my catalogue’s, 200mm long, 38mm opening, its got the ergo soft grip handle on it.
In Japan, several manufacturers offer this style of adjustable wrench. My personal favorites are produced by TOP. They make three versions, a straight, angled and compact.
If I only had one, I prefer the angled. The TOP adjustable wrenches are made with the tightest build quality of any adjustable wrench I have handled, with no noticiable play. Much tighter than my top of the line Iregas.
I am a fan in Engineer, and have three differnt pairs of their Screw removal pliers, PZ-56, PZ-57, & PZ-58. But, in this product catagory, TOP makes a better product.
Another thin wrench option in fixed metric sizes, 6mm – 19mm, is a new product to be released by VIM Tools.
VIM Tools are often offered on Tool Trucks and have a good reputation for quality among professional mechanics. The tools I have from VIM are top notch in terms usability, quality and durability. Many readers of this site would probably be particularly interested in their magnetic socket rails, MagRail TL tool organizing system.
The 2mm thickness is about the same used in bicycle ‘cone wrenches’. Both tools are used for similar purposes.
Now I want pliers with thin jaw profile too. I’m sure I will use them.
“made in Japan” = glows in the dark, alas
– a worthy sub?
here’s a bit of Bahco. history:
I made one with a HF adjustable and a bench grinder. Works great on bikes.
I had just ordered the regular sized Engineers (TWM-07) a few days before this post came out. Having received and used them, I think these thin wrenches are . . . okay. Good for tight spaces or when dealing with jam nuts, but definitely not for high torque applications. The adjustment mechanism is fairly loose so I would expect it would need occasional adjustments. Also, it appears to be cast, not forged, which would have been nice considering that a hunk of the jaws is machined off, weakening the jaws.
This is the same thickness as some thin stamped wrenches I have. Definitely will find a use for them, but I probably would have gone for something a little beefier like the TOP wrenches linked above.
I could use these just for tightening the jam nuts on toggle switches.
This wrench works great with the thin lock nuts on toggle switches and coaxial cable connectors. Also useful on lock nuts of petrol taps fitted to the tanks of classic British motor cycles.
Unusual for an Engineer brand tool my example was not very well finished.
I realize this is a comment on a post from nine years ago…I bought one of the stubby versions recently and took the overmold off. It turns out that the stubby version is the longer wrench, cut to about 3″, with the overmold attached with thermoset glue — for what that’s worth.