It’s just about winter, and the first snow has already fallen. If you haven’t already started prepping your winter auto tool kits, now’s the time to do it.
I’ve got a couple of winter-time favorites, and know many of you do as well. Let’s hear about ’em!
Here are most of my notable favorites:
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Mallory Snow Brushes
I reviewed the Mallory Ultra Maxx snow brush two years ago, and it’s still my favorite. These snow brushes, at least the ones I own and use, are about as indestructible as they come!
Unless something has changed, these brushes should still be made in Canada, and Canadians know a thing or two about snow.
Price: $14
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They also make an extending pivoting head brush (also available on Amazon), but I like to use the simpler brush whenever possible. With the Telebroom, the pivot is a potential weak spot, although mine has been growing strong for a couple of years now.
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My Mallory brushes are entering their 6th season of service.
Rain-X Windshield Washer Fluid
Back in college, I used a gallon of the cheap blue stuff once or twice with my first car. It was always a pain, because it would freeze onto my windshield in winter, doubling or tripling how long it took before I could get going. Then I discovered Rain-X’s windshield washer fluid, and I’ve used it ever since.
Rain-X used to offer a special orange winter formula and greenish summer bug-clearing formula, but they’ve become harder to find in my area. I recently picked up another gallon, but all I could find this time was the 2-in-1 formula.
This washer fluid works well to help clear away that last bit of ice or frost that I might have missed when scraping or brushing off the windshield. And even in the harshest weather, it doesn’t freeze up on the windshield, at least not to my experience.
The all-season formula is rated for temperatures as low as 0°F, but the de-icer and 2-in-1 formulas are rated for temperatures as low as -25°F. I try to buy the one with the better cold-weather rating whenever possible.
You can find Rain-X fluid for $3-$5 or so at auto supply shops and some big box retailers.
Energizer Lithium Batteries
I have discussed batteries and cold weather before, but it’s a good time to bring this up again.
Lithium batteries cost appreciably more than alkaline batteries, but they fare a lot better in cold weather. They also have longer shelf lives.
I use Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries in AA and AAA sizes. They offer a cheaper version under “Advanced Lithium” branding, and while they aren’t quite as good in cold weather, they are still better than alkaline batteries.
I sometimes use Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries in place of rechargeable Eneloops in higher powered devices, such as the Zebralight LED headlamp I reviewed last year. But mainly, I use Lithiums when I know I’ll need consistent and reliable battery power out in the cold.
My current favorite toss-in-a-glove-box flashlight is Rayovac’s 2AA indestructible model ($15 via Home Depot). I keep one in my car, one in the wife’s, and I gave away a bunch of the camo ones that were heavily discounted at Home Depot after last year’s holiday season. These are basic flashlights, but they’re tough and seem to offer great bang for the buck while still being reliable.
Lithium cells cost around $2 each and they’re not rechargeable. But they’re worth it. Lithium batteries definitely offer superior cold-weather performance, but I still check my glove box flashlights every now and then to make sure the batteries haven’t leaked. I also try to remember to bring another good flashlight on all longer or nighttime road trips.
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So what are your favorite winter-time tools or supplies?
Jason
Once it gets below freezing I also break out the good window washer fluid. In general it seems I have been buying the premium stuff all season lately. It’s not that much more and it so much better.
Mike
Winter was always such a special time of year for me and my telescoping brushes. Before each snow we’d mark their size on a door frame and see how much they had grown and how much stronger they were than the year before. I remember when they were just little handheld things, it really brings a tear to my eye. Thanks for bringing up such great memories.
Ram
Hahaha
DanG
I read this on the Daily Curio (which btw is excellent reading material)
A Chinese scientist has developed a lithium ion battery that charges in a few minutes instead of hours, and has a life expectancy of 20 years instead of 3. Standard lithium ion batteries use a graphite anode (negative end) and a metal oxide cathode (positive end), along with an additive that helps facilitate electron exchange. The new design replaces the anode with a gel made of nanotubes of titanium dioxide, also eliminating the need for the additive. This makes more room within the battery, increasing the amount of energy it can store. Most importantly, because it is an adaptation of the existing battery technology, it is easy to modify existing manufacturing processes. And electric car manufactures could significantly lower their prices if they didn’t have to factor in replacing the batteries every few years. The first new batteries could be on the market as early as 2016. This is wonderful news for all the lithium battery incorporated devices.
w-bee
anode is positive cathode is negative, but interesting find.
SteveR
Stuart–One trick you can try to increase conductivity with batteries is to coat both ends with a bit of dielectric grease. It should be available in your local auto parts store in the lubricants section, in a tube; the Permatex brand is the one you’ll likely find. It will minimize the corrosion damage that ocurs when batteries leak, making cleanup faster. They make a very small tube (~$2.50) and a much larger one (~$7.50), which should last for years. You’ll find lots of uses for it, though, like putting it on anything electrical for ease in removal/repair operations. A dab inside each spark plug boot now will help in removal when it’s time to change spark plugs. I put it on the threads of the valve stems of my car’s tires to make it easier to remove the caps to add air. And it prevents corrosion from road salt starting during the winter months if you live in the snowbelt.
As for spare batteries leaking in the glovebox, try placing the batteries in a propylene plastic case you have laying around; that should isolate the problem. You could also repurpose a small box for fishing lures from a sporting goods store.
I had some batteries leak and expand inside a Maglite years ago, and it wasn’t fun getting them out. A coat of grease on the battery bodies would have made the job easier.
DanG
Stuart,
Zoro has the Mallory snow brushes for $6.94 and free shipping!
Rob
Block heaters/frost plug heaters/etc. I have one in my van (uses 400 watts plugged in)…run it for an hour or 2…even well below 0F and the van fires right up like it was a spring day. Sure everything else is frozen (tranny fluid/axle grease/etc)…but the motor is at least not squealing/screaming. Every car up here in WI should have one…I use mine anytime we get into the single digits (last year we had almost 50 days below 0F)…
Tyler
Snow chains or similar alternatives are recommended, even a bag of kitty litter can help gain you traction.
A good sturdy shovel for digging out is a must. If it’s a car or SUV a sturdy collapsible shovel, my truck gets a lightweight but heavy duty grain/scoop shovel.
Having lock deicer, accessible on the outside of the vehicle, has come in handy. I even picked up a small butane torch/lighter when my toolbox locks froze shut, worked great.
Finally, and probably most importantly, in addition to one’s roadside emergency kit you need to make sure you add winter clothing, blankets and long lasting heat candles with a good supply of matches. Don’t forget a supply of bars for energy and sustenance kept in a air tight container to avoid attracting critters. Before setting out on road trips grab a fresh supply of warm/hot water in well insulated containers to delay freezing. Thaw or replace as often as possible.
Dave L.
If you spray WD40 or or TriFlow in your locks now and then they’re not likely to freeze. I also spray silicone on a paper towel and rub it on the weatherstripping so the door won’t freeze to the frame (keeps the rubber “live” too).
Many people wash their cars below freezing. No point to it since salt isn’t very reactive when frozen, but the washing will force water in the locks, making them more likely to freeze.
Tyler
The WD40 or Silicone Spray are good suggestions. Most lock freeze-ups for me happened on long road trips where the roads are slush starting off and then moving into freezing temps. The toolbox locks are the worst since most types seem to have little thought put into protection from harsh elements. Knock on wood, I haven’t had any freeze up in a long time. Maybe because I’ve been lubricating them to keep the tumblers from stiffening up.
Hang Fire
WD40 is designed to migrate, and does so. If not reapplied often it will leave you with an unlubricated lock.
Use a true lubricant.
Good points on the silicone and washing cars. I always wait for a warmer day.
Dave L.
Then use TriFlow or similar. Now, if you live in a dusty area, a dry teflon spray would be better, but then snow and ice probably aren’t problems you have.:)
But it's me!
Much to my dismay we don’t get much snow in my neck of the woods, but we do get ice. When it does snow the occasional inch or two, the whole city hilariously shuts down. Not even sure there are snow plows here. I just use the 25 year old banged up plastic scraper purchased when I did live up north in snow country.
Rain-X fluid is the one thing I insist in all our vehicles, year round. Leaves that nice siliconized layer behind, making it easy for me to forget the wipers when over 60mph. Stuff is amazing and also makes easy work of clearing some ice. Worth the premium over the usual methanol mix.
Watts
Definitely some good items in the article and in the comments, here are my additions:
Hopkins Ice Crusher Scraper. I have a telescoping brush/scraper, but for thick ice or stubborn frost, you really need a good hand scraper. This one is very durable, even in low temperatures, no worries about the blade or handle breaking.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DKO3X6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SnoBrum. These are invaluable for clearing snow off your vehicle without scratching the paint. They breakdown and store easily, but are strong enough to push/pull large amounts of snow off. No more soggy gloves from pushing snow off and no more scratches from using your scraper’s brush.
http://smile.amazon.com/Auto-SNOBRuM-Snow-Removal-Tool/dp/B000E0RFMC/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1417633530&sr=1-3&keywords=snobrum
Caleb
I had a snow broom for a long time until it broke. I keep wanting to replace it, but since I park in a garage now it is not all that needed.
Jimmie
I have two hand scrapers. One is about 20 years old and has a 3/8″ polycarbonate “blade”. Pretty durable compared to plastic scrapers you find in most stores these days. After 20 years, the blade still doesn’t have any nicks or deformations.
My other is a brass-bladed scraper. If you’re only dealing with frost or light ice, brass blade is the way to go. Try one, you’ll like it.
John S
I live in Minnesota and still haven’t figured out what to get when it comes to a “good” shovel – both for pushing and for scooping. Anyone have good ideas? I will gladly pay a premium for something that works well and has a long life. Same goes for a good ice breaker
Also, anyone have a link to solid advice on how to maintain your snowblower?
Allen
I think pushing and scooping require two different sets of properties. The new “plastic” grain shovels are really good. Get them cold before use.
Dave L.
Now and then, check to see all the bolts and screws are tight on your blower. Wax the inside of the chute and auger housing with car wax to make the snow throw better. Keep an eye on the scraper blade and auger to see if and when they need to be replaced-makes a huge difference if they do!
Bryan
At least for a solid pusher shovel, check out this site. http://www.jmenterprises.com I bought a 36″ model last year and am very impressed with how well it is made. This company makes the shovels that NHL teams use during TV timeouts.
A good link for blower and other small engine tips/how to’s is Donyboy73 on YouTube. I found several of his videos helpful.
John S
Thank you everyone!!!
Matt
I second the plug for the Sno Plow shovels. My new favorite shovel. Doesn’t scoop much, but it is super fast to push to one side, then switch to a grain shovel to scoop it. Very efficient and easy.
firefly
Thanks for Snow Plow suggestion. Seems well build, made in USA, the price is reasonable as well. Added to my shopping list 🙂
ktash
I was going to mention my brass bladed scraper, I’ve had it a long time, don’t remember when I got it. much better than other scrapers.
I also use a car cover made of a thin synthetic fabric that covers both windshields when the weather warrants it, when I expect thick, tough ice. It’s a bit of a pain, but oh so worth it when I have to scrape my car in the dark early in order to get to work. It hooks in the car hubcaps. I don’t use this for the easier to scrape ice conditions. If I had a garage I wouldn’t have to do this.
ktash
I use a regular broom to sweep off snow especially from my van. Goes faster than the brushes.
ktash
About shoveling, especially if you are older, ask your doctor if you should be doing this. My brother had a stroke shoveling snow. He’s mostly recovered but it took a very long time. Hire someone else if you are older. The reason being that your blood vessels do funny things when you are cold and even mild exertion, things you could/would normally do becomes a big danger of heart attack or stroke.
Michael
Rain-X is the only one I use
rob
Word of advice on the washer fluid-in California most metro areas only sell washer fluid good to 32 degrees. If you want 0 degree you need to head towards mountain communities that are allowed to sell lower temp washer fluid. If you want 20 below, head to Nevada. I often buy min in Reno for this exact reason….this trick was told to me by an auto supply store in the Truckee/Tahoe area about 5 years ago.
fred
In an ideal world – we probably all should use the low-VOC stuff when the weather is warm – and only switch to lower-temp-rated stuff when we need it. In some of the country knowing when you need it is the trick as severe weather sometimes takes us by surprise earlier into the season than expected
Phil
I carry a Hopkins 2610XM extending snow brush in my car and one truck, the 52″ length allows me to clear the front and back glass by standing on only one side. It has a brush and squeegee head on one end, and a typical plastic scraper on the other. I highly recommend them. I carry a similar snow brush in my other truck that is even better in construction and reach, and the broom/squeegee end folds parallel to the handle to either use as a side-sweeping brush, or to save some space when kept under a seat or in a trunk. I don’t remember the brand name of that brush or where I purchased it, however. It’s worth searching for.
Ken S.
Jeep Wrangler TJ. Best winter tool I have ever had.
ktash
Question about adding Rain-X. Do I need to drain the old fluid out? Or just put it in on top of the old fluid? I don’t have a garage or even a driveway to do car repairs, so I’d be draining it in the street.
Stuart
Rain-X fluid should be used at full strength.
There are ways to drain a windshield washer fluid tank. I checked Google and there are a bunch of different methods. Or you could exercise your spray pumps a couple of times over the course of a week and get really clean windows.
These days, I just put it on top of whatever decent stuff is in there from when I get my oil changed.
ktash
Thanks, Stuart. I have the fluid from my recent oil change in there, too. I’ll just get some clean windows for now unless it gets really cold.
Stuart
There might be good stuff in there already. If it starts freezing on the cold windshield, then there’s a need to flush or run the fluid down.