Earlier today a reader described a dilemma that I see from time to time, and even encounter myself. He’s in the market for a new power tool and wants something good. There are a couple of top models that are priced accordingly, but he’s more in the market for the mid-level tools and is wondering if they’re good enough.
It can be hard to shop for new tools. The urge to buy the BEST can be strong, especially if such tools are pricey but within reach.
Here at ToolGuyd, choosing new tools can be even more of a trying experience than when I shop for personal tools. There is a disconnect between my tools and ToolGuyd’s tools, which means I can sometimes justify larger expenditures than I can with my own tools. But just because I can spend more doesn’t mean I should.
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It’s always nice to be able to use the latest and greatest tools, but it’s important to always weigh needs against wants.
My secret weapon to fight the temptation to blow my budget on the best tools is to think about accessories. A great tool with cheap accessories is not going to be as good as a good tool with great accessories. With power tools, that can mean bits, blades, and fix turning components such as clamps. With hand tools, such as socket sets, it means a broader selection of drive tool accessories.
Sometimes I think about other tools when making my purchasing decisions. For example, instead of spending $60 on top-quality precision needle nose pliers, I might spend $15-$20 (or less), as long as the quality is there, and save money for other styles I might need or want, such as angled nose pliers.
There will always be better tools. If you work with tools regularly, whether for a living or hobbies, there will always be more tools to buy.
Sometimes I will buy the best tool I can, even if my usage might not warrant it, but that usually only happens when there is a sizable difference in quality or features between the best and next-best options, and there is enough of a need to justify the upgrade.
But most of the time, I like to think about what the price difference could mean in terms of future tool or accessory purchases. Or, I look at the budget and realize that I have to settle for a lesser tool. Mrs. ToolGuyd is also a great sounding board. “You want to spend how much on WHAT?” settles things every now and then when I’m on the fence about something.
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How do you fight the temptation to buy better tools than you really need?
firefly
Just do it!
firefly
My motto is that always buy the best tool that you can get. It’s all about budgeting so it’s important not to spend more than you can really afford. So set aside some disposable income then go to town with it. Personally I have never regrets buying any of my expensive equipments (not just tool) but the same can’t said for cheaper equipments.
Spending more than you can really afford is a problem, but spending too little is also a problem IMO. Because if you don’t spend your money on the right thing you will end up spending your money on the wrong thing or somebody else will spend it for you :).
Josh
When I buy a tool, I try and make sure that I’m getting the features I need even if I have to spend extra. I find that many cheap tools are a pain to use. A tool that just sits on the shelf is worthless.
Upgrading tools is the hard thing for me to resist. I try and only upgrade if it gets me new features, or if it’s a tool I use constantly. I just ordered NWS pliers to replace a cheap pair of DeWalts that like to pinch me when I use them.
Jotham M
My rule of thumb is that you should buy a very good or great tool on your second purchase. If you are using something enough that you either wear it out or exceed it’s capabilities, then it’s time to step up to something higher end.
That said, I usually have a lower limit. For example, the chances that a pair of pliers you purchase from a grocery store is going to cut it, are pretty small.
I have this friend that needs to buy the best of everything in spite of never owning it before. So he ends up with a $60 cordless screwdriver when the $30 one would have met his needs, especially considering that the only person who has ever used the $60 screwdriver is myself assembling a bunk bed at his house.
My cheap heat gun and rubber mallet from Harbor Freight are perfect for my needs. If I actually manage to wear out the rubber mallet then I need to re-evaluate my life choices as I am obviously assembling plastic sheds too frequently.
Jimmie
I agree with this advice.
Your first version of a tool should be useable but inexpensive. This allows you to amass a serviceable collection of tools quickly and affordably. Having a top-of-the-line hammer drill doesn’t do you any good if you need a saw but don’t have one because you spent your tool budget on the drill. When your needs outgrow a particular tool that’s when you should consider replacing it with a more premium version.
I’ve long argued this mantra for things like router bits. One recurring newbie question in woodworking forums seems to be which router bits to buy when starting out. Inevitably someone will recommend buying the best bits that one can afford. You can certainly do that. You can make an educated guess on what profiles you’ll need and spend your entire budget on a handful of Whiteside bits and it’ll be a very nice collection. And you’ll be very happy until you come across a project that calls for a profile you didn’t buy. Or until you look at your collection and realize that of the 10 bits you bought at $35 each, only 5 have ever been used and only 3 get used frequently.
I submit a saner approach would be to buy a reasonable assortment of bits from a shop like MLCS. After a while, you’ll have a feel for which bits get used most often. Those are the candidates for premium replacements. Doing it this way gives you the best of both worlds: you eventually have a set of premium bits for those that you use most frequently while having a serviceable assortment of other bits for when the need arises.
Caleb
I agree as well. It took me 6 years to burn up my cheapo Ryobi cordless drill that I got for $40. Now I have a better one.
Depending on the use I tend to start with Craftsman (though it is not as default as it used to be) or Harbor Freight. Both have a warranty and if it needs replaced I will replace it for free and then consider buying something better and bumping it down the line.
If it is something that gets used infrequently (step bits, A/C manifold gauges) or can be clunky (rolling floor jack, some yardwork tools, impact sockets) I tend to start with HF. Most of my emergency trunk tools are HF or tools that got replaced in the garage box – I would rather lose $100 than $500. I also go there for introducing someone to tools (kids, extended family) unless I know they will use it a lot. I always check the reviews and have pushed many things further than they should have lasted.
If it is something that will get more use I used to default to Craftsman. After reading ToolGuyd I am more careful but still end up there much of the time.
If something from one of these breaks – or I know I will use it a lot – I will get something better (hammer, pliers, chainsaw). I also shop sales a lot and will sometimes buy something I don’t need yet if I have the budget free.
It is very hard to make sure I stick with this. I like nice things, but I am trying to use the mentality of my parents and grandparents – if it works, use it. If it doesn’t, fix it or replace it; don’t blow money on something you don’t need.
I am also an early 30s DIYer with kids and many other expenses. I try to buy something that is good enough for my uses, which is rarely professional grade. If it is something that is putting my life on the line I tend to be willing to spend more.
Jason
It’s hard to do if you need that tool right away, but go out and look for deals. You can find some amazing deals sometimes on the internet or sometimes you just have to go and visit your local stores to check out what they are currently clearancing out. I got a bunch of Knipex tools that I could never have justified before, but when Lowes stopped carrying the brand and clearance them out I got a whole nice setup of electrical tools. It’s the same thing with my datacom tools Home Depot had a good deal on those kind of tools and was able to add to that tool bad. Power tools its I never buy anything unless its on sale, or they have some kind of promo like a free bare tool or extra battery. Here is a post I made on Tools In Action about current deals. http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/4471-a-few-in-store-and-online-deals-at-home-depot/ If you have an issue about links to the TIA forum just let me know Stuart.
John
I’m in the buy best tool that suits your needs and only buy it once camp so that means I’m looking at all features, price, quality, local access to parts and service, and compatibility in the case of cordless tools. Accessories also play a part in the decision because I can’t always afford to buy everything at once and may want to add to a set over time so long term support is important to me.
To date, I only have two real regrets when it comes to power tool purchases – buying a DeWalt tracksaw instead of Festool and buying into the Bosch 12V line instead of Milwaukee. I get the feeling that the DeWalt tracksaw is going to go away at some point making some accessories hard to come by. That decision would have also driven me toward Systainers instead of L-Boxxes. The price was right (half off and mail in rebate for a driver) on the Bosch tools I bought first but the number of new offerings is very disappointing compared to big red – I just can’t justify the expense of shelving perfectly good tools for a different line and spending more money.
Since my toddler son is obsessed with my tools, I can see where I’ll be upgrading hand tools and giving him my old but still functional tools down the road which will let me buy better quality as I see good prices.
As far as the budget aspect goes, I don’t normally buy things just for the sake of buying them or without a specific use in mind. If tools are being purchased to do a project around the house, I roll the tool price into the project budget and clearly show the budget committee (wife) what I’m planning to buy and how much it will cost – getting what I want for a price at or below what she’s comfortable with us spending always wins me brownie points.
Javier
The way I see it is that its better to get what you want now even if it is pricey. You might not need the extra features yet but might later and not only that you will always regret your current purchase if you didn’t get exactly what you wanted because you wanted to save a few bucks.
mike
Yeah I just go for it usually,but I always look for deals and have patience to wait for a price i find reasonable.
In my mind there is no replacement for getting good or better stuff the first time as you can. The good stuff will last much longer generally and usually have better warranties and such.
Jerry
When it comes to hand tools, unless it is something I will use only on rare occasions, tools I may lend out fairly often, or one I may need to modify (bend at a certain angle, for instance), I tend to go with a higher quality over lower price. This doesn’t always mean best, but at least very good to excellent quality. When it comes to cordless power tools, I’m more on the fence. Way back when, I spent the extra money for DeWalt 14.4v tools, as they were the top of the line at the time, and priced accordingly (this was long enough ago they were even USA made). All I had at the time was a hammerdrill/driver, and a saw. While they lasted for years, Things like new batteries and tools in the 14.4 line became hard to find, and pricier than the new top dog, the 18v. Since my needs expanded to include an impact driver, right angle drill, and angle driver, I went to the 18v, which is now slowly being replaced by the 20v, just as my batteries are going bad. Looking back, I would have saved quite a bit of money going with a middle of the road brand like Ryobi, Craftsman, or PC, instead of going through 2 families of DeWalts, even if I would have worn out another drill or two.
Allen
A person gets into trouble when they are unable to separate needs and wants. One aid in determining the difference is to not make impulse purchases if you can. If one item still looks to be a better buy over another when considered a week later, then I might spend the extra money.
‘Course there are always items like air compressors and such where your needs tomorrow may be different than your needs today. No one can make the decision for you whether money spent on added capacity today will avoid you having to make two purchases rather than one larger one.
As to quality costing more, I am a firm believer in buying better tools than your skills would dictate, especially when you are younger. Pride in workmanship starts with pride in the tools. Yes we can all point to a craftsman who can do magic with dime store tools, and there are folks who will constantly flounder while working with top of the line equipment, but most people try harder when they have good quality resources.
It all comes down to personal attitude. I saw a sign once that said something to the effect that “The pain of poor quality lasts longer than the sting of high prices.”
A person just has to avoid getting both.
Greg
When looking at new tools I try to optimize them for my uses. Like a drill for instance, buy a hammer drill and impact combo set. If you need the hammer drill you have it ….a hammer drill will make holes just as easy as a regular drill so why not just have 2 drills (hammer drill and impact) instead of 3 (Hammer drill, impact, regular drill)
Staplers are another example, Dewalt has a new gun that does staples and brads. Multi bit screwdrivers is a good example too. Why carry a bag full of screwdrivers when all you need is a multi bit. But invest in a good one. Flush cut saw by Bosch ($80) is a tool that you really don’t need when a multi use oscillator ($140) is available and will do a dozen more things.
Space is a premium when your a contractor, even a diyer. Having the right tool for the job is important but if a tool can do what you need and even more its worth the extra money in my eyes.
Pete
A tool that is expensive but saves more time is worth it to me. For example, I bought a spark plug specific magnetic socket with a wobble extension permanently attaché, it cost $17. I already had the socket and a universal joint with the same sized extension. But because the it was magnetic and permanently attached it saved me probably an hour chasing down dropped spark plugs and or sockets that fell off the extension.
So while I didn’t “need” the spark plug specific, it was worth it because it cut down on the job time.
dan
I buy the best I can afford at the time, with hand tools this means good kit most of which is made in a first world country but with power tools it will be something from Makita, Bosch, DeWalt or Hitachi usually, SDS drills last 10 years, battery kit lasts about 5 usually, angle grinders need new brushes every few years and other kit is yet to wear out. In still using my dads Swiss made Elu planer which is from 1994, the Elu router is even older, but I think your be looking at the Festool or equivalent level to get power tools that good now.
SawdustTX
I try to buy the best quality I can, but almost always used. I have a shop full of top line Delta, Porter-Cable, etc., almost every piece bought used for less than I would have paid for cheap new tools. It takes patience and a bit of haggling, but since the tools are quality, buying used is not so much of a risk. I look for clean tools indicating they have not been abused. Only once (a $30 Porter Cable Industrial jigsaw off eBay) did I got a bum deal. The only thing I buy used are the cordless tools, and I’ve been able to buy the Milwaukee line with all the money I’ve saved buying everything else used.
SawdustTX
that was supposed to say “the only thing I buy “NEW” are the cordless tools”
Joe M
My rule of thumb is a little different. I’m happy to listen if someone has a better way for me.
I’m a devotee of DeWalt and Dremel for power tools. Refuse to ever buy another brand, because they’ve been so reliable to me. They are worth the investment, to me. Dremel for their Rotary products, as well as their Glue Gun, VersaTip, and Engraver. So… Crafty/Small Scale stuff. DeWalt for big tools. Drill, Saw, Screwdriver, Etc. They’ve never let me down, and investing in them for how much I use them for results in them lasting longer, which means I spend less on them as a whole.
Accessories for said power tools… Doesn’t matter. I’ll get huge variety kits from in-store brands, online brands, and bargains, just to have them. However… The second it becomes obvious that I wear out or use a specific one more often than the rest, I immediately look to the Name-Brand version (If it isn’t a specialty of the place I bought it in the first place.) as the need arises.
Hand tools are different. I don’t use them quite as often, but I do use them. To get started, just to get some tools, I bought a variety all-in-one pack of 300 pieces from the in-store brand. As time went on, and I discovered what tools of that I used more often, I would then switch to the best brand FOR that tool. Usually Stanley/FatMAX, so far. But, I have gone with larger variety packs that were on sale, or were incomplete in the 300 piece I bought. Screwdrivers, for example. I bought Mastercraft sets. (Canadian Tire Brand, basically.) And I will continue to use them until the most important ones break, telling me what ones I need the most. I will ALSO buy tools that are just on sale, but I have none of. Wrenches, Pry Bars, Rasps, for similar reasons. It’s better to have it, and not need it, than need it, and not have it. Again, if it comes down to those ones getting used regularly, I take note of it and invest in a better brand later.
jason. w
Well let’s see. First off I try not to buy anything unless I have a specific need to fill. All my tools are kept at my job, so they are all job specific tools. I buy cheap.
For hand tools I have…
33% harbor freight
33% husky
33% Stanley
Power tools are all ryobi with the addition of a Rockwell versacut.
My acsesorries are cheap too. Bluehawk (I think) multi tool blades. Ryobi drill bits and drivers. Though I have been upgrading my driver bits as they break.
I’m hard pressed for money.
Bill K
As an engineer, I’ve always tried to make informed tool buying decisions based on need and product information. As much as I’d like to have the best of everything, my practical side often takes precedence, but not always. In the past I’ve bought some very expensive cheap tools and some costly tools that have turned out to very economical based on usage. Most of my impulse tool buys are typically not cost effective. Finding that best value sweet spot for the intended use is a challenge….. at least for me, which is the essence of this posting.
I do know since being a ToolGuyd reader, I’ve made better buying decisions in both quality and often cost (sales). It’s cost me money, but the quality and quantity of my workshop tools is far superior, as well as my knowledge about tools.
Thank you Stuart for bringing us ToolGuyd. Much appreciated!!!!
Toolfreak
Generally I buy the best tool I can, but I get it for 50-75% off waiting for sales, clearance, or just buying it online when it’s cheap, so it winds up costing less than even the cheapest piece of junk tool.
If you really need the best of the best (which is never discounted and never cheap), you may as well spend it, because you will spend a lot more NOT having it, both in time and hassle, and in going back and redoing a job with the right tool you SHOULD have been using in the first place.
Sometimes a $100 saw is great because it gets the job done and does what you need it to do. Sometimes it isn’t that great and you really need a $600 saw, which will save you hundreds if not thousands in time and materials, not having to redo it, and not having to buy new materials to redo it.
Robert
The pertinent question is; what constitutes the “best” tool? Sometimes it’s more related to the circumstance than the tool itself. If for example I’m looking for a tool that I intend to use one time only, a cheap Harbor Freight item may do the trick. During that one time usage, it may pay for itself. Obviously it depends on the tool. If it does the trick however and I won’t use it again anyway, the one that makes the project financially feasible may in fact be the best tool for the circumstance.
If it’s a tool that I know I’ll continue to use, it’s typically cheaper in the long run to purchase quality. While quality is always the primary issue, the individual circumstance and the realities of personal budgets all play a role.
Bart
With tools, there will always be that choice between buying the best available, and what is adequate to get the job done for the expected frequency of use.
Obviously for the home mechanic, handyman, etc., it is hard to justify (for most) spending $300 on a bearing puller set that will see use once every few years, vs. buying the $50 one at Northern Tool or HF that may not stand up to everyday use, but is “good enough” to get the job done once or twice.
Same can be said for more frequently used tools, it doesn’t make sense for someone to load up on a box full of truck brand tools (honestly, I don’t think there’s much of a reason for anyone to have a box full of truck branded general hand tools, but that’s another discussion) for home use unless they just have money to burn. But in this instance, I’m not going to cheap out either. I’d much rather buy a higher quality tool once than buy a bunch of cheap junk just to get a job done today, knowing that I’m going to use that same wrench or set of pliers over and over again. So while that $20-30 price tag for a good set of pliers may seem steep vs the $3-4 ones at HF, I’ll probably still be using those Channellocks and Knipex pliers 30 years from now, instead of tossing them in the trash and buying new ones every few years, or spending the money to buy the better ones anyway.
Garrick
Great topic that is of importance to everyone who uses tools, with the exception of a real estate magnate I once worked for… who had an 80″ hobby lathe.
There are two other avenues that may be practical if you need quality, but can’t justify it based on the amount of use a tool will get:
Craigslist still has honest people selling stuff. Even some of the amateur dealers can be worthwhile if I need something immediately.
Renting is the other option. While we probably pay very roughly 20% of the tools’ cost for 1% of it’s life, it can still be worthwhile.
The main problem I have nowadays is not how long a tool lasts, but how quickly better ones are coming out. What do you do with a serviceable tool that is now obsolete? Friends, relatives, neighbors or Craigslist?
TH
Spend the money. In a professional world tools make their owners/users the money they need to spend on tools. It’s a give and take, but remember spend cheap spend twice.
matt
If said lower cost tool is still functional, Who cars if you spend twice?
I have never ever in my life looked in my tool box and went man I wish I didnt have 2 hammers( I have more)..
RX9
My way of holding back the temptation to purchase tools of higher quality is based on four estimated factors:
1. How much time/money they will save/make me – I bought a floor jack, because three pumps to lift a car is a lot less taking than spending 15 minutes winding a scissor jack. I bought an inspection camera, because knowing what’s inside the wall for $100 is a lot cheaper than repairing a water main you just drilled into.
2. How often I will use them – I think an occasionally used tool is a good place to cheap out, the idea being that you drop more coin on the things you use a lot. For instance, I haven’t needed to make any holes in concrete, so a rotary hammer, as awesome as they are, is out of the question. I do however, spend a lot of time working on cars, so a nice impact wrench is justified.
3. How much of an advantage they have over their cheap counterparts – There is no comparison between a Harbor Freight ten dollar angle grinder and a Metabo grinder. The increased safety, power, comfort (autobalancer FTW), and reliability is worth the cash to myself and many others. However, I own a set of HF impact sockets that seem to be every bit as good as their higher priced competitor’s sockets.
4. How well my existing tools do the job – If all you have is a reciprocating saw, then a circular saw might be a good purchase for cutting 2×4’s and plywood. If you need to cut a small piece of pipe though, that reciprocating saw is good enough and you don’t really need a band saw.
I only buy top of the line stuff when I am sure I will use it, and even then I try every trick in the book to avoid paying full retail.
Ron
The “Law of Diminishing Returns” should be considered when deciding what ‘grade’ tool to buy. After a certain point, the more you spend on a tool the less value you are getting per dollar. For example, if you spend twice as much as the next best tool, are you getting twice the performance or dollar return (or whatever is valuable to you)? If not, you are probably overspending.
fred
This is a proverbial dilemma. One can easily question does the tool limit the capabilities of the user or does the limited capabilities of the user limit the usefulness of the tool? While I strive to never knowingly purchase a poor quality tool – I may not always buy the top of the line fully-featured model until I find that I have mastered the use of a journeyman-quality tool and now need one of greater capability. This is sometimes easier said than done since it is often difficult to discern what features and options offered by different manufacturers or by the same manufacturer within their product line will make a difference for you in the type of work you plan to undertake. Sometimes buyers guides (e.g. those published by some woodworking magazines) may help – but just as likely you need to do a lot of reading between the lines. In the now seemingly distant past – I recall that you could find folks with tool-using expertise at hardware stores and industrial supply houses. These folks have become as scarce as hen’s teeth – perhaps being somewhat replaced by online forums and Amazon reviews. For hand-held power tools – how the tool feels in your hand may be as (or even more) important as other features. This would suggest a trip to a supplier who carries a good selection of more than one brand.
Dave Wittmann
For me, it is usually pretty easy. I make my living with my tools. So, it is a matter of where do the diminishing returns start. How long will it take for the tool to pay for itself and how often will I use it. This is also the logic I try to use when deciding between renting or buying a tool.
Mr. X
I have never heard a tradesman or mechanic complain that his tools are built to too high a level of quality. Too expensive maybe, but never too good. As a vocational teacher in the electrical field, my electrician’s tools are almost exclusively U.S. made Klein. They are expensive, but they work and last. Power tools are a more subjective choice. Here, I prefer Milwaukee, which I consider the best overall quality regardless of price. I do own a few random power tools from other manufacturers, though. My DeWalt sliding compound miter saw, Bosch palm grip sander, and Makita grinders come to mind. For mechanic’s tools, I take a step back. Snap-On would be great, but since I do not make a living with my mechanic’s tools, U.S. made Sears Craftsman (Professional, if available) is my choice.
My point is, those of us on a budget need to be smart. If you are making money with your tools, it is far easier to amortize the cost over several jobs. Using them for hobby or part time work makes top quality tools a luxury rather than a necessity.
I NEVER suggest anyone buy cheap tools, but there needs to be a common sense approach to tools and equipment that see occasional or limited non-professional use. Many people give the advice: “Buy the best you can afford.” I agree, but add to that “Appropriate for the job at hand”
Chris
Hang Fire
A lot of mental confusion can be cleared out quickly by simply following the old adage- “Only buy a tool when you need it.” There are very few tools that can be purchased on the assurance of future need- a drill/driver, basic socket and wrench sets, pliers, dikes, screwdrivers and a hammer, tape measure, that’s about it. Chances are good everyone here already has those tools.
Too many tools are purchased because they are on sale, because they would have made a completed job easier, because they are new and shiny, because someone we know has them. How do I know? My initials are HF, and I’m a recovering tool addict.
Chris
Shop for deals. When I see a tool I want or “need” I shop around for it. Often times I find a better performing/ more versitale tool. Perhaps the most important thing to remember is buy the appropriate tool for the job. Just remember next year there is sure to be a big, better, longer running, more ergonomic, lighter, more durable, (insert any tool marketers dream adjative), etc. modle.