We will soon be upgrading our workshop, a position a lot of DIYers, hobbyists, and pros find themselves in.
While I have made up my mind about a few things, I figured we could all throw in ideas for inspiration.
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Plywood Wall Sheathing? I’ve seen a lot of OSB-lined walls on YouTube, and the benefit is that you can fasten anything to anywhere, and not necessarily just over a stud. Plywood was recommended to me, and I think that’s the direction I’ll go in, painted white or light gray, with thin wood strips over the seams.
I’m not 100% convinced about this, but I don’t have a good argument against it.
Electrical Subpanel. We need more outlets, and it makes sense to install a subpanel rather than bringing in more lines from the main breaker panel in the house. Let’s say I want an air compressor in the corner, or a 220V table saw. A subpanel will make future upgrades and installations a lot easier.
Belt-Driven Garage Door Openers. We’ll be getting new doors – 7-footers rather than the 6-foot something’s from years ago, and with them new openers. This will be a great time to test out the Ryobi garage door opener and accessory system. For the other door, I was thinking of maybe a Chamberlain.
Mini Split for Heating and Cooling. It seems that a mini split will be a lot better than a window or portable AC and ceiling-mounted electric heater.
How Would You, or Did You, Upgrade Your Garage Workspace?
In my dream workspace, I’d have a Tardis, so that I could have unlimited storage space with a teeny tiny footprint the size of a small closet. But that’s fantasy, this is reality. Realistically, insulated walls, heated and cooling, flexible electric, quieter openers, and plywood instead of drywall seem to be the best I can think of.
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Oh, and high-powered Big Ass LED lights. But that’s just a plug-and-play upgrade. They recommended 2, which they sent over for testing and review, but I think I might want to go with a 3-light setup.
Photo Details: One of several awesome Lego garage models.
Blake
I bought a 3/4 HP Chamberlain that I installed myself and have been very happy with it. We have a wooden door so I wanted something more powerful so that it wouldn’t stress the motor too much. I also bought the link accessory that you hook up to your network which will send you messages when the door is left open and you can close it with their application. I bought this after getting a knock on the door by the police at 3am when it was accidentally left it open all night.
Jon H
I recently installed a 3/4hp Chamberlain and have been very happy with it, especially the wi-fi capabilities. Be warned however, it doesn’t work with Homelink openers (built into many cars) without a ~$70 adapter.
fred
We had good luck with the Liftmaster Brand (Chamberlain’s sister ?) – but we were not full-time garage door folks – and only installed openers when asked to do so as part of larger residential renovation work. I think the current model of the type we installed is #8365-267. It’s a chain drive – no battery backup – but I don’t recall getting any complaints or callbacks.
Jon
Better still than a belt drive opener is a direct drive unit (LiftMaster 8500) Also if your garage roof is high enough consider doing a high lift door track that places the open door way up out of the way instead of just 7 feet overhead.
jeff
When I add plywood to my studded walls Im going to add a “chair” type molding just above bench height. This will be flush with the wall, maybe a 10″ strip, probably just a section cut from the plywood itself. This section will allow easy access to add wires, receptacles, etc.
Phi Nguyen
Racedeck Freeflow Flooring, NewAge Products Pro 3.0 Cabinets, and PVC Slatwall!
Stuart, what climate zone are you in? What size is your space?
Dacan
I was gonna say also, Stu how could you forget about flooring?! Was also gonna recommend the racedeck.
Stuart
Still working on that. Might get the current floor refinished. Or just a deep cleaning plus Racedeck in some areas.
But I’m pissed off at Racedeck. They sent me a flyer, and in it they quote what I wrote for a PopMech article a few years ago. I don’t like it when my writings are used for commercial means without my knowledge.
Hang Fire
Fair use is fair use, unless they failed to quote properly, then it’s not fair use.
Stuart
They credited PopMech, not me. Which is reasonable.
I’m not talking about fair use, I’m talking about common courtesy. My words have been used for commercial purposes before, but I’m typically asked first.
Besides which, “Fair Use” doesn’t usually permit for commercial and advertising purposes. Fair Use usually applies to educational or artistic use of copyrighted materials.
If a brand copied a paragraph off of ToolGuyd and used it to sell tools, that would not be an example of fair use. But in that case, if a brand supplied the tool, or they link back, I generally allow it. I just like to be asked.
Tom
I see the advantage of covering your walls in OSB or Plywood….. but isn’t that a bit of a fire hazard? I always wonder what would happen if there were a fire in the garage with that setup. Perhaps cover it with 5/8 sheetrock?
In addition to the subpanel, I have seen people run Wiremold Raceways, allowing you to add plugs anywhere along the line.
fred
I believe that many fire codes say that an attached garage should have at least 1/2 inch of gypsum board as a fire-retardant covering. Doors to the house also need to be self-closing and fire-rated – and there should be no penetrations into the house like dryer vents.
Code in our area also requires that garage floors be made of non-flammable material (e.g. concrete) – sloped to allow fluid spills to drain to the outside. The wall of the house is also to be protected from intrusion of fluid spills. This is sometimes done with a concrete curb or foundation that raises the wall’s sillplate off of the floor.
If you are no longer using the garage to store a car – you may have some additional latitude – but a check with local building inspectors might be useful.
Anton
So wouldn’t covering a wall in pegboard also be a fire hazzard? Or are pegboard sheets treated somehow?
BonPacific
I would think pegboard to be a bigger hazard. It’s less dense, almost perfect as a firestarter.
It really comes down to what you’ll be filling the space with. If you’re doing a lot of metalworking or car repair, plywood walls are probably a step up in hazard.
In my case, its a woodworking shop, already full of sawdust, shavings, and stored lumber, so a little more wood doesn’t really change the fire risk or time. I’ve also got a furnace right up against the shiplap house siding, so I couldn’t cover the whole place in drywall anyways.
Andy from Workshopshed
I think pegboard is just untreated hardboard, as BonPacific says it’s a great fire starter.
There’s some stuff called “Hardie Backer” here in the uk that’s designed for wetrooms and showers. It’s a kind of concrete and would give some basic protection to the walls from welding and torches. Limited help with a furnace unless you really layered it on.
RC Ward
Would anybody really cover a wall with pegboard? I can see the steel pegboard but the cheap stuff? Can’t see doing that.
Bolt
I’d want a few Windows and a sink.
fred
We did quite a few garden or garage sinks – that were “dry” most of the time – but could be made functional via a hose from an outdoor hose bib. If code allowed – we’d run the outdoor drain to a small drywell – rather than try to plumb it up to the house septic system. Otherwise connecting to house drains can be an issue for a seldom used sink – where traps may sometimes evaporate dry allowing sewer gas to enter.
Koko the Talking Ape
I would probably start with more lighting. Many garages have just a single ceiling fixture. Not good.
Plywood or waferboard on the walls seems like a good idea, but yes, fire risk. Also harder to repair than drywall if you bash a hole in it. Those are not deal-breakers, but just a consideration.
I would also make the floor more friendly. You could put down mats, but some floors might be so rough or slanted that you might have to build it up: a vapor barrier, then furring and plywood. You’d want to think about point loads from the tools…
A mini-split is good if you are going to seal up the garage and keep it warm or cool all the time. But if you use it only a few hours a day, then it might make more sense to install a few radiant electric heaters. They are relatively cheap, and make heat instantly. It will still take a while for the air to warm up, which might affect finishing, but you will FEEL warm instantly. And if the shop becomes dusty or full of fumes, you can vent it out without dumping out a lot of heat at the same time. Electric heaters are expensive to run, but you might run them only while you are actually in the garage. I would be nervous about gas heaters in a sealed room (carbon monoxide, water vapor, gas leaks, soot, etc.) but maybe I don’t understand them well enough.
Jeff’s idea of leaving easy-access space in the walls for wiring is a great idea. I might just leave it open, if codes allow.
Acoustic treatment is something I think a lot of people don’t think of. It won’t make tools less loud, but it can make the garage a lot less reverberant, which affects your perception of loudness. It can also protect the rest of the house from your noise.
Air treatment is a must. And a dust collection system of some kind, preferably one that exhausts to the outside, unless it has a HEPA filter.
A landline phone in case you cut off a hand, with a ringer that flashes a light to get your attention when you are wearing ear protection.
Wi-fi might be important. You might end up using a pad for converting units or displaying construction diagrams. (I wouldn’t put a computer in the room. Dust is bad for them.)
It would be nice to have an area you could curtain off for finishing, to keep dust out and keep fumes in. Maybe it could have its own vents, a small exhaust fan or something.
I personally would like a few windows. They would eat up wall space, but something about the quality of light is really hard to duplicate with ceiling lights. And I didn’t quit a high-paying corporate job to work in a windowless box all day, even if I am doing something as awesome as woodworking. The windows could be high up, above head height. A skylight or even a Suntube might be enough.
Something like Amazon’s Echo would be pretty nice. I could listen to music or news all day, and with voice control I can turn it down or change channels just by speaking into the air. My brother has it and it works great. I hear now it can control lighting, security systems, thermostats, etc. Maybe it could control dust collection! Maybe it could call 911 on command!
Damn, this is fun to think about.
John
The Big Ass garage lights are sure drool worthy and I listed after those for a long time. However when one single fixture cost $400 (plus another $50 or so for the remote module) I couldn’t see paying $1200 for the minimum I’d need for my garage. Instead I got the 4 food Feit shop lights from Costco. They are about $40 each, provide 3700 lumens each, dead simple, and work great. They’re hard to get as they seem to sell out almost immediately so I had to call about 6 Costcos to fine them in stock. They sometimes run them in a 2 fer package variant too. At any rate I bough 6 of these, replaced the light sockets with a 2 outlet plug in all 4 fixtures, and laid them out on the ceiling. Now my garage is incredibly well lit at about a $250 less than half one Big Ass Light fixture. Btw if you want the timer/movement features you can get that built in on light switch. Best money I’ve ever spent and man the increase in lighting was life changing.
BonPacific
I did similar, with a cheap box of wireless switches from Amazon ($15 for three outlets). These lights are a fantastic deal.
If you plan on doing any video work in there, a track-light setup with some different temperature LED bulbs might be a nice addition.
Marvin L McConoughey
I have been installing multiple T5 light high output light fixtures, four tubes per fixture and about 20,000 lumens per fixture. These are excellent lights and I am slowly converting my old T12 light fixtures to the T5’s. A local big box store has them.
Mr. Creek
Use your Tardis, go back and convince the builder to make the garage 3x bigger. Problem solved.
Stewart
I’m sure someone is going to skewer me for posting this idea; but it’s worked great for me and a buddy of mine who used this lighting method in our garages:
https://goo.gl/photos/zsZMnH2gCKYYD9iz7
It’s a series of 16 100W equivalent CFLs on a 5 x 5 EMT grid through the garage. It’s a pretty cheap solution (though a little more labor, of course). It puts off GREAT light. And virtually no shadows to speak of.
Toolboxhero
I installed a 100W CFL every 4 foot in my 20 X 20 garage 10 years ago. No, shadows and plenty of light for old eyes.
Instead of a mini-split I went with a Packaged Terminal Heat Pump (PTHP) Air Conditioner. That’s the system you find in your local motel room.
It’s very simple to install – just slide the unit into a through-the-wall sleeve. I went that way so I didn’t have to hire a HVAC person to run the refrigeration lines.
When you figure in the labor it’s about half the cost of a Mini-Split.
Alick
I’m having some fun right now adding french cleat wall storage to my small (single car garage) workshop. Using 12mm birch ply for the wall board, hangers and tool holders.
I’ve scrapped my old bench and i’m changing over to a set of 3 adaptable workbenches – one a 1970’s original cast alloy workmate, second a walko that will handle upto 8×4 sheet, and third a collection of 8020 type alloy extrusions that can assemble into various sizes of bench and layout table.
Tools have gone into dewalt toughsystem cases for protection from winter damp and the table saw, planer and mitre saw are all now on wheels so they can park alongside the walls and be easily pulled out (even outdoors) for use.
Unless you have a good deal of space and do repetitive work, I think there’s an advantage in keeping stuff off the floor and being able to move things around easily.
BonPacific
Think about flooring. Concrete get’s really irritating over time. The permanent solution would be a moisture barrier and wood flooring. You probably don’t want to go the full framing router, but there are pre-fabricated plywood tiles that get some good reviews. I’d actually be interested in seeing a review of putting those down.
If you don’t want the permanent solution, you could just pick up a couple stall mats from a tractor supply store. Even a little bit of give will make time in the shop more pleasant.
Koko the Talking Ape
Oh, and about lighting, one trick is to paint the ceiling white and aim the lights upward, to bounce off the ceiling. The light will be more even and have less glare. You might even get away with small fixtures, like floodlights, because the ceiling will diffuse the beam considerably. Small fixtures are cheaper and easier to install. And the fixtures don’t have to be mounted on the ceiling, they just have to be above head height. That means they can be mounted on the walls, support columns, etc. You could make your own sconces by screwing a socket to a small shelf of wood, so that the bulb is aimed upwards.
The downsides are you will have to dust off the bulbs once in a while, and if you are using the ceiling for storage, you are out of luck. If you can, shield the bulbs so you don’t ever have to look at a bare bulb. That makes your pupils contract and eventually will make you tired.
RKA
The ideas are boundless. I think it’s a little easier if you can frame the anticipated usage of the space (and size), whether it’s dedicated for workshop or will be double duty as parking space. Will you be doing automotive work, metal working, wood working, other (describe potential requirements). The layout, size of the equipment, number of floor standing and portable machines and equipment factor into this.
How important is it to be able to change layouts? Costs you more time and money upfront but hopefully saves aggravation later.
Minisplit-hell yeah! I have the tools if you need to borrow them (Gauges, hoses, vac pump, vacuum gauge, etc. ). Every time I use it I smile. But I’m a princess when it comes to being comfortable in my hobby space.
Organization is turning into a big pet peeve with me. If I don’t know where something is, I’m wasting time or possibly purchasing something I already have buried somewhere. And if I’m really poorly organized, I’m crawling around and over stuff or can’t use horizontal work surfaces for work because I have to clear them first (sound familiar?). I wish I had dealt with this first before acquiring tools, machines, space, materials, supplies, etc.
Yadda
A separate compressed air hose connection system for all the work stations. Some of the quarter inch systems look interesting and relatively speaking they are inexpensive. I would also have a charging station for all my battery tools. You can’t have enough electrical plugs. Sounds like you are planning on more. Every stations should have two sets of plugs at desk level (at least one should be USB), two plugs below (if it is open) and one in the ceiling above the work station. It’s overkill, but in the long run you have all configurations covered. The minisplit is a great idea for the A/C. Considering some of your more recent ambitions you should run consider running LAN cables so you can set up web Cameras at every station (Left, right, center and over). Of course you can also do this via wifi. Finally, an enclosed paint station. Dust creeps into everything. A paint station really helps control those issues.
JMG
On the note of compressed air supply; The compressor itself does not have to be directly attached to the tank. Generally they are made that way to allow for the economy of location of fittings. In my case, the compressor head will be located in a serviceable location with the tank being mounted in an out of the way (possibly attic or overhead) local along with the main supply feeds. An air dryer is also planned along with an automatic tank drain for errant condensation. The separation of the head and tank will also allow me to easily isolate sound and ventilation issues to a much smaller footprint than otherwise might be required.
Marvin L McConoughey
Very true, and a small compressor can still be used to fill up a large air storage tank. The larger tank helps to even out peak demands on the compressor so that an air tool can run longer at a time despite a small compressor.
Hang Fire
You only need an air compressor for painting or auto work. Otherwise a little hand-held can be used to fill your car tires. I recall you don’t do much auto work, but if that’s going to change and you get air impact tools, get a compressor with the following minimums- oil lubricated (with the exception of California Air, oil-less compressors are LOUD and SLOW). 145PSI or higher max. 35gal or more.
As important as the rest, remove all the connectors and replace them with hi-flow such as Milton V or GuardAir. A small tank 110V compressor may take a while to recover, but it can hit as hard with a good impact wrench (for a little while) as long as the air can get through. Cheap imported quick disconnects really killed the performance of my 110V compressor, GuardAir High Flows fixed that. I now get 100% of the rated power of my impact tools.
Koko The Talking Ape
“You only need an air compressor for painting or auto work.”
Actually that’s not true. They can be great for woodworking. Air-powered sanding, shaping, cutting and grinding tools are typically lighter, more powerful and longer-lasting than their electric equivalents. (An air “motor” might have only one moving part.) I know one woodworker who uses compressed-air tools as much as he can. He even has an air-powered router he found somewhere. Of course, he has to run hoses to each tool, so he has some cordless tools for fix-it jobs.
Hang Fire
OK, I overstated that. I’m a big proponent of air tools, and I use them for just about everything. I even have an air powered Oscillating Multi-Tool. The fact they don’t overheat like corded or cordless tools is a big plus, especially when grinding and sanding. Often the air tools are cheaper, smaller and lighter (if you don’t count the weight of the hose) than their electric counterparts. They usually last longer, and are rebuildable by the user.
As much as I love air tools, I also recognize there’s a big upfront investment, plus a commitment to the space the tank takes up in your shop. In many cases, cordless tools like cordless impact wrenches (the better ones) can suffice for most DIY users. The tether is also a limitation, I can take my cordless tools to a friend’s deck project or broken down vehicle.
So, for me, the driving reasons to make the jump to a big air compressor is painting and auto work. Everything else is gravy. If you need to make the jump, make it early, and then you can consider air versus corded versus cordless for every single purchase.
I also have to point out that an air powered woodshop is by far the exception, and not the rule. I know several woodworkers, and only one has air in their woodshop. It’s a pancake compressor for brad guns. (Another worthy air tool.)
JMG
I use compressed air for other reasons as well. Air powered hoists, and vacuum generators top the list. The hoists were used in situations where electric supply was impractical to install and the vacuum motors for veneer press and home built panel lift to load sheet goods onto the panel saw or move large pieces around the shop.
Hang Fire
I too use air for more than automotive work. I only meant that auto work and painting are usually the primary driving factors to go to air. Once you have air, you find it useful for just about everything (everything in range of your air hoses, anyway).
I’d really like to see pictures of your home built panel lift.
JMG
Some day when I get the time, I will dig up the negatives and digitize them. There is a long story behind the why it was built, and I need to write it down as well.
garrett
Currently have a 1200 sq ft shop/metal building between Austin & Waco. It gets so hot in the summer that the only hobby you can pursue effectively is projectile sweating. I can’t tell you how much woodwork I’ve had to dry out and re-sand to get the sweat-stains out. Gross, but true.
So, I’d upgrade the shop in this order: insulation, an HVAC system, 3-phase power, an overhead crane w/at least a 3 ton capacity. Lastly, a mezanine to store long goods.
Hep
Currently:
– 16′ + wall control metal pegboard from cheappegboad.com
– 2×4 led panels overhead
– 14’+ of workbench
– rubbermaid utility carts
– rubbermaid FastTrack for yard implements
– dedicated 220v line for welders
– beer fridge
– 80’s era punch 45 car stereo amps with Bluetooth module connected to overhead spks
Future upgrades:
– built in drawer system under workbench
– home brewed grinder/vice stand
– vintage anvil
– ‘barnwood’ wall covering
David C.
I just spent $150 at cheappegboard.com after seeing your post. I have about 8′ of wall control now in front of my main workbench, but will be adding another 8′ around the rest of the garage. I wish I had ordered from them in the first place, as I would have saved a good chunk of money. Thanks for the heads up!
Hep
Sweet! Glad I could point you in a lower cost direction.
Btw- the merch from cheappegboad.com comes from wall control directly, and any ‘blemishes’ are minor/inconspicuous/unnoticeable.
Hep
Koen Bro
Upgrades in my 3 car garage (one car parked inside):
-1 x 220V outlet
-2 x 110V /20Amp circuits
-white paint on walls and ceiling (drywall)
-daylight-balanced fluorescent lighting (5 banks of 4 tubes)
-2-tonMitsubishi mini-split (I am in Arizona)
-styrofoam garage door insulation
-French cleat system on walls at 1-foot step-down from ceiling (5.5″ poplar boards ripped lengthwise in half)
-casters on most carts, easily reconfigured work units
Andy from Workshopshed
Workshopshed upgrades include more storage, a bench,electrical sub panel, roof insulation, more storage and more storage
Evan
I would go with a worm gear garage door opener (they are great). I personal am a fan of wood stoves for heat but that does take space and is not always everyone’s preferred method of heating. I would definitely put the sub-panel in. Even still I have all my lights flicker when I fire up the dust collected and table saw or the 3 phase converter for the milling machine. I wish I had your clean slate and could have the joy of building a workshop for exactly what I want.
BigDan
Comfortable chair or couch. Often want to take a seat and grab a beer but do it somewhere other than on that workbench stool.
Laundry sink and also a urinal if outside isn’t an option, so you can avoid having to clean up before going inside and out.
Sub panel is a great idea! I’ll need to add that to my wishlist.
Bluetooth panasonic phone so you can answer that instead of your touchscreen cell when your hands are covered in sweat, paint, sawdust, glue, etc.
David C.
My wife vetoed my urinal idea in our garage.
Greg
Just need a drain in the floor… for washing the garage now and then.
Greg
Since we’re dreaming, throw in radiant heat, enough room for a small machine shop, a blast deflector around the air compressor tank (yea, I’m paranoid about those things), and a gantry crane system.
Andy from Workshopshed
Oh yes, my dream workshop definitely has a gantry crane
JARED
Koko, your comment is longer than the article lol.
Brian
Every upgrade I do seems worth it in my 3 car attached garage. Drywall, 220 Volt subpanel, ceiling mounted vented natural gas heater, 16) 100W CFL bulbs, small fridge, ceiling fan, 8″ ventilator exhaust fan, Insulated attic and garage door, pub table with stools. I wish I had air conditioning.
Steve
1. Drywall painted in a nice semigloss color (easy to clean).
2. French cleats along walls and/or Wall Control.
3. Hose reel in ceiling.
4. Outlets along perimeter. MUST get 220v….preferably 50A. Do you even weld?
5. Insulate garage door panels?
6. Dirty/clean separation with filtration. Dust collector, etc. Saw an ingenious temporary paint booth design that rolls up to the ceiling on all 4 sides like a projector screen.
7. Horse stall mats are awesome and portable should you move.
The list goes on. Why not talk to the dude from Garage Journal? He’ll set you straight.
Fran tark
I’m going through the same process, Stuart… Here are some of my priorities:
1. A sink ( either plumbed out to a gray water pit or into the house line depending on what’s better for you)
2. Plywood walls: easy to unscrew a panel or two to access bays as needed and infinite hanging spots. OSB gets a little flakey after a while so I’m going with 1/2″ ply
3. Horse stall mats for flooring. Easier on my old bones than concrete and still hard enough to roll heavy tools/chests over. Plus dropping iron and/or steel tools (like hand planes) doesn’t result in damage to the tool or floor. And it keeps down noise.
4. At least 2 dedicated 20 amp outlets so you can run two high draw tools at once. (Compressor and shop vac e.g.) 220v and a sub panel is obviously great. 3-phase power opens up a bunch of tool options, but I run a phase converter on a 220v outlet with an idler motor in line and it works for me.
5. Outdoor flood lighting near the doors and where you will do your unloading/loading. Sometimes we have to do stuff at night!
6. Dedicated hanging spots on opposite walls for at least 2 fire extinguishers
7. A huge clock you can see from anywhere in the shop
8. A French drain along the length of the garage door opening. Don’t let water from rain or washing your car or your kid leaving a hose turned on or and errant sprinkler or anything else, into your garage floor! Only bad things can happen in a wet garage!
9. A router table built into the table saw wing
10. A cantilevered area along one wall dedicated to storing long 8’+ pieces. Pipe and lumber are the big issues for me.
That’s some of what’s on my list…
BigDan
I find horse products useful for a lot of stuff. Lots of local supply stores here that have it too. Its cheaper to downsize that stuff for my Danes than to buy little dog stuff at pet store prices.
I’ll have to look into the stall mats.
Jim Felt
I’d like to suggest a simple but very obvious upgrade for any reasonably well build concrete floor.
Sika (not Zika as spellcheck first offered) makes a water based clear concrete sealer. Both in matte and glossy. I saw it in a car collectors building and thought they’d polished the floors. Nope. Just mopped like crazy to clean (after a few patches) and let it dry then mopped on the Sika material. One day from cruddy to really high end.
The stuff cost like $30 a gallon and we did one coat. You can do more easily but we were in a hurry last month.
And it was thousands cheaper then a diamond polish I did a year ago in another existing building.
It just brightens the studio space up immensely. Just like in a shop.
Do it!
Stuart
I’ll consider that, thanks!
Right now there’s some kind of yellow and flake finish, but it’s cracked and worn. I’m guessing it’ll have to be removed first.
BikerDad
The ideal garage/shop will have:
Frosted windows in the garage doors. They lets natural light in, but doesn’t reveal the contents. Additional windows as the situation allows. Doors on two sides, to get flow through ventilation.
Insulation, heating and cooling as well.
Plentiful outlets. 50″ above the floor. 3 120v circuits (2 on the walls, one on the ceiling for drops), 240v circuits as required. 100amp subpanel. Throw in an Igor Switch if possible. (“Igor, throw the switch…It’s alive, it’s aliiiiiiive!!!! mwhahahahahahahhaa”)
Mine would have an in floor motorcycle lift. Running water is importante.
As far as the walls go, it depends on what’s going on in there. Lot of welding and metal fabrication? If so, then cover the walls with metal and paint ’em white or some other light color. Otherwise, check with local fire code on the plywood.
Nathan
this thread couldn’t come at a better time for me- moved into a new house and have a new garage to re-plan – work.
However on your garage door lifter. my new house has a LInear brand device – I’ve seen then in a lot of commercial applications but never in a house. They however make the most notable zwave/wifi add on garage door controllers. Anyway it is a chain drive track guide and is rather quite after I re-oiled it. since it probably has gone some 3 years without.
If you plan on having Zwave home automation they do make an add on device that is marketed with a number of different names (like the LInk version for example) and it works well – on any basic garage door. FYI.
I have one of those taller doors – 5 panel vs 4 – and it does rise high to the ceiling – but that also reduces the amount of storage ability above the door – and there still isn’t enough height to get a lift in play.
I would think the OSB would be fine for use in a garage/workroom I’d check your codes in your area but honestly it’s good enough for your hot attic with your gas water heater, and heaters and A/C units etc – with all that mostly flammable insulation – it should be fine for your garage. I would of course paint it and I think I would use OSB vs ply – but it might need like a skim coat of plaster or something.
I thought I would want running water in mine but decided against – I plan on using a industrial plastic sink and rigging it for the hose feed – when I need it. IE keep the faucet on there etc – but re-plumb the back for a hose connector or a hose QC
I need to read more about this mini-split idea. I was going to use a portable AC unit
Jungled
My garage is freestanding from the house with 30 x 30 exterior dimensions, CBS with 2 windows, one door and belt drive double garage door. So much stuff can only get one car in and my next big project is de clutter/garage sale to clear up some space and then find even more. After that new bench which will come from kitchen cabinets we replaced. Once re-attached will be almost 6 ft long so need to decide on top for it and how much overhang for bench grinder and vise. This will also create space for many tools now in other places. This list is longer but this would be great start.