Yes, this is a serious question. Many new router bits, as well as pricier cutting tools, such as end mills or some drill bits, are coated with a thick layer of some kind of waxy, oily, plasticky protective material.
How to remove this stuff before a bit can be put to use?
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Well, I’ve peeled it off with my nails before, but that can be slow and messy. I have also used a utility knife to score, cut, or lift off the material, and that seems to work okay most of the time.
I installed a new bit when I wanted to test out the Porter Cable 7518 router that I bought and recently disappointed me, and the waxy plasticky coating simply disappeared. I found it about 15 feet away later that day, and presumed that either the heat or speed caused its spontaneous ejection.
So how do you remove this thick protective coating from your router bits and other tooling?
Using my nail is messy, not to mention risky. The coating is soft, and gives false confidence that it’ll protect you if you grab the sharpened cutting edges by mistake. A utility knife seems a lot safer to use, but I worry about scratching any sensitive bits of the coating or leading edge.
I suppose that a sharpened pencil-shaped dowel might be ideal for something like this. Or maybe a plastic spudger.
I’m curious to hear about your method, and am also wondering if there’s a “proper” way to do it.
fred
I’ve always just used the point of a utility knife and then my fingers. Most times it comes off in larger pieces – sometimes it a scrap or two need to be picked off.
FishStick
Same here, carefully cut all the way down and then start peeling it off. I’ve had a few pieces stick but just a fingernail or piece of wood quickly took it off. I’m very careful with my Whiteside bits as those are hands down the sharpest bits I’ve ever used and will slice you open.
glenn
By using them…it burns off near instantly.
Chance
I don’t think you understand what he’s talking about. Using a bit or blade with the protective material on it is a terrible idea. I worked with an older guy that decided one day he was going to try that, he said it was one of the stupidest ideas he’d ever tried. He was picking that waxy stuff out of the tool for days.
glenn
I do understand….use it on a sacrificial piece. Ain’t hard to use common sense.
Chris
“Out of the tool” It would be easier to take the coating off rather than clean your tool everytime you get a new cutting accessory.
SawdustTX
Seriously? That would make a mess and potentially gum up the bearing. Just peel it off, easy-peasy. I’ve never had an issue peeling it off in a few big pieces.
Reflector
Use a sharp knife and cut it in half except for the top. It peels right off without effort.
Pete
Your looking at cosmoline. Guys that like milsurp rifles know cosmoline too well….[crying inside]
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline
Stuart
Isn’t cosmoline generally goopier and grease-like? New equipment from China tends to be slathered in the stuff.
But with these bits, it seems to be more of a hot wax dip.
John Lobert
This is NOT cosmoline, believe me.
Pete
I dunno, i guess i’ve never bought a tool with the stuff Stuart is talking about. Maybe i’m to cheap? lol i guess the one on the right looks like plastic, the middle one looks like a nicer cosmo which i assumed is what it was.
But apparently i’m totally wrong lol. I’ve gotten some tools with cosmoline on them, i think they were some taps?
Stuart
With cosmoline, the protection is against corrosion. I think this coating is more for handling, so that a knock during packaging or shopping won’t chip a carbide cutting edge.
I have to check, but I think these are $20-$30 bits. I bought assortments during the holiday season and don’t remember.
Rob
Definitely hot wax that the packing department dips the oil covered bits into before packaging. It protects the edges, but also protects against corrosion.
I cringe when I buy bits that aren’t dipped (Italian and German manufacture), but those are generally painted, and I suppose that covers the corrosion part. Lot’s of bits I’ve received were floating around loose in the plastic container, but the carbide was always fine, so, I guess my worries are unfounded.
The US (Whiteside) and some Taiwan bits are dipped and I have a weird childlike fascination with removing said wax (think Kinder Surprise).
Usually one knife line will do, but I’ve been known to just use my teeth. :0
Adam
Ironically, Peachtree router bits are on sale for $5.99 today. I am not familiar (with any router bits really), but passing this on from GJ. Seemed relevant to the discussion. Only one that caught my eye is the key-hole bit
https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_router_bit_stone_mountain_sale_599.html
John Lobert
Just curious, but why is this an “irony”?
Adam
The deal popped up on the other site the same day Stuart posted this article
Benjamin Stephens
It’s a coincidence.
Anthony Morales
I agree with glenn, just use them, the coating will come right off. For the ones with bearings, I could see that being difficult, so just melt them off with a torch, I bet even a lighter might do it, I’m sure the bits can handle a little heat
glenn
Cheers man. Every router bit with bearing that I have ever used has a sealed bearing. If it didn’t…I would not buy it.
Late Night
acetone or gumout parts cleaner. Mineral sprits with acetone rinse good too. May need to soak, maybe not, depends on composition.
Late Night
^^ Solvents used after initial mechanical removal…
fred
The issue with using some solvents on router bits that have bearings it that it can remove the lubrication in the bearing – so you may have to relubricate.
Farid
That was my thought exactly. It might even let some of the coating into the bearing.
Farid
LOL this stuff always reminds of a conformal coating that we sarcastically call “bear snot”, but that is for another use altogether. This stuff is called Dip Seal (http://www.dipseal.com/faqs.html).
I use a hook shaped pick tool (http://www.ullman-devices.com/scribers_hooks_picks/individual_hook_n_pick_set.html) to slit it , keeping the point away from critical edges.
I like your idea of using a spudger, but I would wear leather gloves to prevent nasty cuts in case of a slip .
Sometimes, this stuff can be reused and reheated to seal. in this case, I use a blade and cut carefully.
Gription
As Reflector stated –
Single – edged razor blade or Olfa knife working in the direction from shank to tip. either cutting the plastic away on the side opposite the carbide insert, or at the carbide insert side, at a point closest to the axial centerline (the edge is the working part of the carbide – I keep the blade away from that. Generally once you start it it will peel off.
Sometimes you may have to pick at it around the ball bearing and for that I would use a scribe or pick.
If the bit has a ball bearing, I would NEVER soak or otherwise expose it to solvent as this might leach the lubricant out of the bearing.
Some coatings are tougher to remove than others. Depends on manufacturer and how long they have been on the shelf.
Reflector
If your cut line is clean and you run it up to the ball bearing, it should pop free from the ball bearing. In my experience with the bits I’ve bought with coatings like that (Amana In-Techs being one of the notable ones) they pretty much peel away. If your cut lines are good you can even slip the conformal stuff right back on.
Mainly you want to look at the shape of the coating and cut it so it can peel off without much resistance.
Rob
What’s all this talk about acetone and mineral spirits? It’s soft wax/plastic with a generous layer of oil surrounding a bit. It can come off in one piece with a fingernail.
I wish everything came dipped, instead of dried up and pitted. 😀
The only time I’ve seen something similar to cosmoline on a tool has been on cast iron surfaces of stationary machines.
You could write a book on chasing rust once that stuff comes off. :0
Grady
The stuff is called “dip coat.” Usually an oil based wax product that is melted in a dip coat pot (very similar to a deep fryer) at approximately 310 °F.
I use a pocket or utility knife to to split it and peel it off with my fingers.
If you are worried about the bit it self, it’s more than likely harder than your knife . But just to be safe, cut the dip coat in the flute areas of the bit.
RKA
As stated above, I use a 90 degree pick to pull it off, avoiding the cutting edges. I resist the urge to pick it off with my fingers because it’s so easy to slice the tip of my finger (which becomes a complete PITA to avoid splitting open repeatedly over the next 3 weeks). It’s easy if the tooling was bathed in oil completely before they applied the dipped coating. On saw blades sometimes the plate isn’t well oiled and the coating sticks. I’ll just get a flexible plastic scraper and run it around the plate to get the last remaining bits off.
But I do like your idea of putting the bit in the router and spinning it up to fling it off! :). Haha!
JoeM
…If it really is a wax or oil based coating… I’d use what I use on my family’s Minorah… Boiling Water… Wax Floats… Oil doesn’t mix with water, so, therefore, also floats… metal stays at the bottom of the pot, while the coating floats off at melting point…
Is this stuff too volatile for boiling water? I’ve never encountered it, as all my Router bits and Cutter bits are for my Dremel Rotary Tool, not a standard Router.
DC
Utility knife and scribe or scratch awl/scribe point then I wipe it with acetone.
SawdustTX
I’ve never had a problem just peeling it off with my fingers. It usually peels off readily in a few big pieces. Just peel from the back of each flute and don’t run your finger over the cutting edge. I would never suggest using the bit with it on there, going to gunk up the bearing and throw this stuff everywhere.
Mick
Being a retired to room machinist, we used dip seal for everything. Taps, end mills, thread mills, drills…even single point tools. The shop machinists would usually whip out their pocket knife and slice it down the the flutes or behind the cutting edge. A rag took care of oily film. Pick a point away from the edge, slice it, pick it off with your fingers, wipe it and make chip fly.
David George
Seriously? Been in the sharpening biz for 32 years. Quality dip-seal with enough lubricant comes off very easily.
Roger
Depending on what it is, crumble most of it off;
small utility knife and pick.;
disassemble
WD-40 and pick;
reassemble;
test run to clear.
Disassemble and reassemble to make sure bearing is free and bolt is properly tightened. Don’t want anything to stick and fly.
Sam
I hold a scrap board firmly on the bench and grab the router bit with the other hand. Using the edge of the board, I push the sharp part of the bit into it. This creates a break in the protective coating along the cutting edge of the bit. After that it’s easy to peel off the coating. In other words, I use the cutting edge of the bit to cut through the coating.
Nathan
Yeah like a few have said dip seal being a wax melts fairly low temp. I’ve done one of 2 things when I have to remove some.
find a nearly straight line to follow – score with a knife – peel up with fingers – knock off as much as you can with a easy pull. rest – often falls off.
If it is particularly complex tool bit and has too many edges and valleys (like an end mill) then I’ve resorted to heating with a heat gun on low and then scrubbing the bit in a solvent tank washer. but that’s when I was in an industrial setting. at home I’d probably use the heat gun and wipe a few times with mineral spirits.
Peter Gamache
I’m from Minnesota, land of Rockler, and they always cover their store brand bits in wax. I’ve received quite a few wax-coated bits from online sellers, too. I just use an ordinary pencil to pick the goop off. The graphite point and the surrounding wood in the pencil are both a lot softer than carbide, so there’s no risk of damaging the bit.
Hang Fire
With all the different countries and manufacturers making router bits, I think it’s fair to say that not all use the exact same coating substance.
Diplomatic Immunity
Better question might be how the hell do you sharpen router bits accurately?
Tino
however I get the first one off, I find a good dose of blood helps loosen the other side.
Mike boney
Hold the bearing tightly and twist it. It’s a very pleasing task actually.
Jason Beecher
Just bought a set of Whiteside bits with the coating. Lightly score the wax with a utility or pocket knife. The wax comes off the straight bits with no effort and the other ones I scored both sides and around the ball bearing. The wax came off easily in a few big pieces.
Sonic Pop
From the manufacturers website:
How do you remove Dip Seal?
To remove, you simply slit the protective coating with a sharp object, or your thumbnail, and peel it off like a banana or an orange. It removes easily and can be reused if you’re careful to keep the coating clean which helps reduce the already low cost of using Dip Seal even further.
http://www.dipseal.com/faqs.html