So my parents bought an outdoor storage shed a few months ago, and a team of Amish builders (seriously!) hauled in the pre-made walls and roof and assembled the small structure in the backyard. There aren’t really any valuables in the shed, nothing anyone would want to steal, anyways.
A few days ago, my father found a few of the door hinge square recess/Robertson screws on the floor. After looking it over myself, I agree with his conclusion that it is impossible for the screws to have fallen out themselves. In other words, someone hopped the yard fence and tried to get into the shed.
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So… we’re trying to think of ways to prevent someone from casually removing these screws again. I’m thinking small 1/8″ steel ball bearings secured in the screws’ recesses with a bit of wax or putty. If the screws need to be accessed in the future, we can pull the balls out with a strong magnet.
Please share any suggestions you may have. For reference, shotgun and protective dog methods are out of the question.
Kimber Janney
For my tool shed I used large strap hinges with carriage bolts through the walls and door so the door has to be open to remove the hinges. I also layered cement board siding over plywood for both door and walls so it would be difficult and noisy to cut through either.
Russ
I do like your ball bearing and wax idea. Here’s a source for more exotic screw styles. The square heads are kinda oh-hum common now.
http://www.tamperproof.com
I do not recommend star or hex with raised centers. I’ve found it’s way to easy to pound the center down.
Clint
Get a dog.. a big one.
jeepnut
Tamperproof torx screws/bolts. But the lag bolts through the wall are better.
Stuart
Thanks for the tips! Unfortunately, a dog is out of the question.
I suggested a motion-sensor flood light, but that might also make it easier for a thief to work easier. Maybe an attached camera would be a good idea. I’m not sure either of these would make for a good deterrent.
I’m not sure what’s going on either, maybe some kid(s) hopping the backyard fences to see if there’s something worth taking that’s not bolted down?
As it is now, there are 3 hinges in each door, with 4 screws into the frame and 4 into the door, for a total of maybe 12 fasteners that would need to be removed to gain access.
Driving lags through isn’t really an option, although I will take a look later to see what can be done on the inside of the door.
ClarkM
It may be possible to drill through the structure and use tamper proof through bolts with nuts on the back side. add some loc-tite and they should be good deter all but the most dedicated interest. The type used on public bathroom stall doors would work.
c
Years ago, I bought some security bars for a couple windows. They came with square drive screws and some lead BB’s. All you do to protect the screw is pound the BB into the screw recess with a hammer; while someone can probably dig the relatively soft lead out eventually, it’s unlikely.
Greg
C I like the lead bb idea. It’s a pretty smart deterrent.
Itz Hawaiian
Use a variety of screws heads. Some might be that coffee can on the top shelf.
Time is the critical factor. Having a lot of tools is not common for a break-in “expert”. Aloha
rob
My local Public Works dept usually takes longer screws bolts them down then bends the screw over really good. I haven’t noticed a missing stop sign or street sign in a long time since they started that practice.
fred
What a pity – probably some low life with a cordless drill and a set of bits – out to see what’s in the shed and steal it if its worth taking. Beefing up the hardware may discourage the culprit – or may just promote the notion that there is something in the shed worth stealing.
Phil G
If you are stuck with surface mounting and exposed hardware, the most secure variation would probably be to drill completely through the door and wall surface and install machine screws long enough to go through the various surfaces and thread some locking nuts on the inside. The type of fastener is irrelevant for the most part, the security comes from the nut on the inside being “locked” onto the fastener and turning with it if the outside fastener is turned. This prevents gaining access by removing the hardware yet allows you to easily remove or replace the hardware at a later date without having to undo any particular precautions such as filling in the screw heads.
For the best yet cheapest version of this antitheft fix, use carriage bolts on the outside, there will be nothing to get ahold of on the outside, and if you square up the holes in the hinges and hardware, (use a file or dremel) the fastener won’t turn anyway.
Steve
Add more light to this area. Most crooks will not want to be in a well lit area while they try to break-in.
I would say ditch the “security” screw idea. Go for something that cannot be removed from the outside, its pretty easy to get drivers for those screws (i have one with most of the common security bits in the handle got it at a normal hardware store)
Colin
I would fill the head of the screw with something like superglue. Most theives have no patience (hence the reason they steal). Superglue will be a pain to get back out, but if you needed to get it out, you could with a pick or something similar. The theif would be there all night in the dark trying to pull all the screws.
CJ
I’m going to agree with the carriage bots. Cover them with some finish trim that you tack down paint and seal. Then if you should ever really need to access them you just pry it off strip it down and fix it up and put it all back together. I wouldn’t go cheap on the locks either.
Last but not least put a motion sensor light pointing at the shed and just for good measure get a sticker that says “Danger VERY high voltage” make it look official.
;-). I bought some Name brand security company stickers and stuck them at entry points around my rental and I haven’t had any break-ins sense. It’s all about the perception that it’s a more difficult than breaking into the house next door.
CJ
just thought of another one…. fill them and paint them to try and conceal them. Then if you need them find them with a magnet.
Mac
All good ideas, proven to work in the past. I use carriage bolts first where possible.
A BB in the square head seems like your easiest best solution so far. Add a small bit of adhesive too.
Motion lights help – it does seem to be a deterrant. At least to the idiot crooks around my area. A motion activated camera won’t stop them from getting in, but will help identify them later.
I like the ‘danger high voltage idea’, just take it one step further, adding ‘live wire’. 🙂 On one of my sheds I added a handwritten sign ‘hornets nest!’. Haven’t seen even a footprint near the place in years.
Walty
Concertina wire around the fence perimeter. Trembler sensors in the fenceline. Laser beam detection system. Seismic sensors in the ground. Security cameras. Motion lights. Armed security guard. UAV platform surveying the area. M60 machine gun nest. Moat filled with sharks with laser beams on their head. (I think I’ve worked for the military/government for too long.)
dd
Better late than never. Thanks for the belly laugh.
Armando
Try some epoxy resin on the heads and sand them down a little. I did that in my house makes it look like a nail head. If the screw is tightened and seated right it should never loosen or back out. If you ever have to remove it use a small chisel to break loose the epoxy off just enough to back out the screw. TRUST me when they see it they are goanna think someone used nails instead of a screws.
James H
I had this same issue when securing my vacant property and came across your post! I had to board up the windows as well as fit an external barrel bolt lock to the door and the problem was anybody could have just turned up with a screwdriver and removed everything!
I used some Bondo Plastic Metal (basically just epoxy resin but in one tube instead of two) and when I was finished I just went around and filled in all the screw heads with it. It’s designed for car-body repair work so it bonds to metal. It’s so strong that it’s pretty much impossible to scrape out and makes breaking in a lot tougher.
Hope this helps someone in the same position!
michael monroe
When I worked in a prison as a maintenance person when ever we would need to screw something down we used a screw that had a double head, when the screw got to the right torque the outside head would break off & leave a mushroom like head, no way could the inmates get them out unless they had a grinder. Only the only place I’ve seen them was in the prison. There’s another idea. counter sink your holes just a little & fill them with water putty & sand them off & with a dab of paint they would have a hard time finding the screws, & instead of just using enough screws to hold the whatever on use lots of screws. Screws must be cheaper than what their going to steal.———- And if your going to use wrought iron on windows always put inside the wrought iron a piece of rebar before you weld it together. When they try to cut the wrought iron they will hit the rebar & the rebar just keeps turning around & around & they can’t cut it. I hope this helps you out. Mike Monroe
Andrew Leung
Epoxy and a small rock or ball bearing into the screw head. Also epoxy on the screw thread to prevent plier twist.