Wandering through Home Depot the other day, I found a new addition to Husky’s line of adjustable height tables. It features the same base and top as their 52″ model, but has two full-width drawers mounted underneath the benchtop for extra storage.
The table top can be raised and lowered with a manual crank. When using the table with polypropylene casters (included), the workbench height can be adjusted from 29″ to 42″. Alternatively, if you use the supplied leveling feet, the total height is lowered by 3″.
Here’s a summary of the features:
- Total dimensions: 52″ W x 24″ D x 26″ to 42″ H
- Total weight: 70 lbs
- Total load capacity: 300 lbs
- Top drawer: 40″ W x 8.12″ D x 2.25″ H, 15 lbs load capacity
- Bottom drawer: 40″ W x 16″D x 2.25″ H, 35 lbs load capacity
- 3″ x 2″ PPR swivel casters with locking brakes
- 1.2″ thick worktop
The top is constructed from hardwood cutoffs finger-jointed into strips and laminated together to form stable solid wood surface measuring 1.2″ thick, 52″ wide, and 24″ deep. The frame is 3 mm steel with a powder-coated finish.
The workbench is available in two colors, white and black. The white-finish version of the table is a special buy right now at $199. I saw it in store, but I can’t guarantee whether your local Home Depot carries either table in stock. The black-finish version is priced at $249.
Price: $199 (white), $249 (black)
Buy Now (Workbench in White via Home Depot)
Buy Now (Workbench in Black via Home Depot)
I’ve been pretty happy with Husky’s 46″ adjustable height table. I purchased one to create a standing desk for my computer that could be adjusted to the height of each family member and still be usable as a sitting desk.
I actually don’t use it as a standing desk very often, because I’ve been planning to build a motorized height adjustment that would automatically go to the pre-programmed sitting and standing positions, but I haven’t gotten around to that yet.
The table top and frame are very solid and there is no discernible play in the height adjustment mechanism. The table doesn’t move when I’m typing seated or standing.
I originally was going to use leveling feet, because I was afraid that even when they were locked, the casters would make the table wiggle too much, but to my surprise they actually keep the table pretty steady when I’m typing.
An unforeseen benefit of using the casters was that I could easily roll the table away from the wall and get access to all my cables, or to clean behind it if I ever needed to.
I was a little bummed when I spotted this table the other day. I would have to do a lot of rearranging to get a 52″ table in the same place, but having two full width drawers might have been worth the effort.
The fact that the top drawer is only 8″ deep bothers me a little. It’d be nice if both drawers were full depth. The reason the top drawer is shorter is the mechanism for adjusting the height that connects to both legs, runs down the middle of the underside of the table.
The description still states that the table has “an overhang so that you can easily attach your vise grips or clamps while working on a project.” The new drawers seem to interfere with that functionality, but I suppose you still have that capability on the rear side of the table.
I picked up one of the white ones a few weeks back.
My thoughts were to use it as an in-feed/out-feed table for my different tools. The height adjustment makes it easy to mate it up with the different heights of my tools, and this seemed easier than trying to build stands/benches at equal heights for everything.
The quality on it is pretty decent. The top drawer being 8″ deep is kind of sucky, but it’s in line with the mechanical guts/screw responsible for raising/lowering both sides.
I recommend not purchasing an assembled one, or inspecting it before you do. My HD only had one left, I noticed the IGMO that assembled it put the height adjusting knob towards the rear. It doesn’t affect how I’ll use it that much, so probably not worth my time to pull it apart and re-assemble it. However, if you plan on using it as a desk, it would be annoying.
Oh, I almost forgot. I’m digging those curtains Ben!
Yeah, I totally missed that there was the support/mechanism in the middle, I fixed the post and added a photo. Thanks!
On the curtains, my wife is the one with the taste, I just do the dirty work.
I am looking to purchase this Husky 52 in. adjustable Height Workbench Table with 2-Drawers in White. However, Home Depot is out of stock. Would you know place where I can purchase it. WayFair does not carry it either despite the ad on this page.
Unfortunately, it looks sold out in my area too. I’d guess that they only had inventory in-stores and they sold out. Maybe it’ll be restocked for the holiday season? Home Depot is the only source for new Husky tools. Have you checked with their customer service regarding availability?
How do I remove the drawers they were assembled upside down?
The drawers are upside down? Ouch, I’m not impressed with the newer staff at my local HD. Some of them are there just to stand around, not help, and collect a paycheck.
Anyways, to remove the drawers is like removing other standard drawers
1. Pull the drawer out as far as it can go
2. Look to one side and locate the slide and see when the drawer is slid all the way out. Push it back and out in an inch.
3. Look carefully and you will see a thin tab protruding out of the center of the inner slide.
4. There will be that same thin tab on the opposite side.
5. at the same time push both tabs up or down and slowly pull the drawer out, the drawer should keep sliding out
If you need further help, go in the kitchen/bathroom and look at drawers there. The concept is the same, but the the thin tabs are usually white or plastic and easier to see.
Good Luck !!!
I purchased the white one for $200. as a mostly stand up desk. Very pleased all around. Stable, and the lift mechanism is smooth. The drawers are better than I thought they’d be. The top one is only 8 inches wide, so 8 1/2 width paper doesn’t lie flat. I recommend as a desk, craft space, and work surface. A much more substantial alt to the like priced Ikea desk. https://m2.ikea.com/us/en/p/skarsta-desk-sit-stand-white-s49084965/
as soon as I read the first part of the post I was thinking this would be an awesome outfeed table kit for my saw when I setup in the garage.
Might have to buy one. thanks for the heads up
RE: standing desk
When one does a little bit of digging online, motorized frames are available relatively inexpensively ( compared to some brands ) and you you can apply your own desktop.
I have a six foot butcher block on mine with a 5 float long floating shelf underneath it. I don’t move it up/down often. Only downside mine has is the control module keeps going dormant, whenever I try to move it, so I have to unclip and reclip the wire.
Any hints on where to dig for these motorized frames? I have a great desktop, but need a frame. I like this Husky 2 drawer (style/price), but would like to see other options.
I just picked one of these up yesterday at Home Depot. I am using it for a desk as well. I like the fact I can roll it around. It’s built very well and seems pretty sturdy.
Hi Gregg, do the drawers interfere with your ergonomics when sitting? I was planning on having my ergo-keyboard in the top drawer so it will be tucked away when I’m not using it.
Also, do you find the drawers useful?
Have you tried using a drill to lower/raise the desk?
I saw these in the weekly sale ad. The added depth of the drawers might make clearance for a sit desk a bit awkward if you’re sitting to type like I do. That is, the desk, lowered to meet your thighs if you’re big, might have a bit too much height because of the drawers.
Would be PERFECT for a stand desk, though. The adjustability would mean you could lower for tasks that require bearing down (drilling, etc) but raise for assembly, maintenance, or electronic work.
Most desks have drawers, typically one relatively deep one, these two extra shallow ones are no different than the average keyboard shelf really …
That’s my point. In the absence of a keyboard tray, you’d need to sit higher for a keyboard on the table which would mean greater chance of those drawers getting in the way of legs/knees, especially if you’re big.
Mmmm … In our office space, at our regular L shaped desks, we’re used to keyboards in the trays and keyboards and / or laptops on the desk surface, as we have 3-4 systems per L desk.
I’m six foot tall. Trays never hit my legs.
The trays on that husky are quite shallow. I don’t think they’d interfere with legs if you were using a keyboard on top …
But try it standing! After I got my standing desk, I actually prefer to stand with the desk and keyboard at elbow height, arms near the elbow rest on the desk a bit …
Sometimes I lower the desk a bit while I sit on a bar stool, …
The ergonomics of sitting with a keyboard on a desk and having to sit low enough to accommodate a keyboard tray (or equivalent drawers) puts your arms too high unless you have some combination of long torso and short arms. Not saying it isn’t a great stand desk or that it couldn’t be used with a bar height stool, but bar height seating (generally) is not the kind of task seating one should sit at for good ergonomics either.
I’d use it in a heartbeat for a hobby table or workbench. But the design isn’t economically accommodating for sitting office work.
… but the original point posted was about using it as a standing desk …
How much does the height change with one rotation of the hand crank? I’d like a desk that can be made standing, but not if it takes 5 minutes of cranking to get there.
Good question! On my 46″ table one turn is approximately 3/16″. This means it takes 5.33 turns to raise or lower the top an inch. To get the full 13″ travel, that means about 69 rotations.
Fear not, the handle is 10mm hex key, so if you chuck a 10mm hex key into a drill, you can raise and lower the table top much faster. If you set the clutch just right, you don’t even have to worry about slowing down!
Tested in store … it took a LOT of cranking to raise and lower it.
Would get frustrating really quick, if you had to switch between sitting and standing height twice a day.
I use this as my primary work desk 1-2 days a week. In a full day, I will move it up and down 1-2 times. It’s tedious, but not a problem. As Benjamen pointed out, you could hook up a drill/impact and make it faster.
*I have the version without the drawers. Kind of upset about that as I just bought mine about 6 months ago
When I say work desk, I mean computer work.
How much weight can these handle while cranking up? I’ve been thinking about putting a 250-lb machine on one, because some operators prefer to work at different heights.
I suspect I’d end up adding gas-charged lift cylinders to counteract most of the machine’s weight, but I can’t find any examples of someone having done so. That makes me wonder if it’s a bad idea and I’m just not seeing why…
Just got back from HD. I wouldn’t put that much on them. My biggest concern is the amount it wobbles as you crank. With that much weight you would absolutely need a drill to raise and lower. but I still think it would be putting weight too high off the floor, on a wobbly table.
Success using a cheap Chinese power screwdriver (not even an impact or actual drill) on raising/lowering a Husky:
Ben, let’s talk about that PC, do you want me to send you some components to upgrade? Or are you running a sleeper?
I’ve never heard a computer called a sleeper before, but I guess you could call it that.
You don’t like my case? It’s nice and roomy and very easy to work, with, so I’ve just kept it over the last few upgrades.
A sleeper PCis a car that has high performance and an unassuming exterior. Same as a sleeper car, it’s a silly but fun concept.
Checking out both the 46 and 52” benches. Great post as I would not have thought of using as a computer desk…till now. And the fact I will be looking for a computer desk soon, one of these may work great for me also!
Looks like a cool computer desk. Wish I needed one.
I’d like it for a island in my kitchen but. I already made one out of old lumber from a barn teardown…
Why is the white desk cheaper than the black one?
Possibly because there are more of then and they are stocked in stores or regional warehouses, allowing for less expensive shipping and distribution?
You’ll find different color options at higher and lower pricing across many industries, and I’ve given up trying to understand it.
The Top (with the drawers ) would make a good transplant into existing motorized sit stand desks. I never liked the manual crank computer desks, takes too much work and they arent any cheaper.
Could anyone measure the distance between the legs(interior) on the 52″ one?
trying to figure out if I can put this over a 48″ table
Any idea where i might find one of these on Australian shores?
I’m sorry, I don’t even know where to start.
No worries, its almost a year before I see anything shown on here in stores locally anyway. Just bought the GenII M12FID and then they start releasing that modular driver a month or so ago. (Not the new Installation one, the one from last year with the black case)
Well, at least that model is available to you. We have to pay enough in import and shipping fees in NA for the multi head driver that buying the Bosch Flexiclick 2 battery kit was cheaper than buying the Milwaukee bare tool! 🙂
The price get marked up quite a bit here too. $399AUD for the multi head kit. $349AUD for the Packout Rolling box compared to $129USD
I saw one of these at my local HD yesterday. I was surprised to see a white one with a $250 price tag on it, but upon closer inspection the tag said “BLK” on it, so it was mislabeled. Usually that wouldn’t be an issue to get the wrong color in the sticker, but here it makes a 25% difference in price!
The desk itself seemed sturdy enough, but the drawers seemed a little flimsy. They deflected pretty easily, and didn’t close fully in alignment with each other. They’ll probably be fine for use ask regular desk drawers, but I wouldn’t count on being able to load them up with tools.
This is perfect for my home office. I bought two. Unfortunately one is missing a panel that goes behind the drawers. I’ll have to give that 800 number a try on Monday. Benjamen, I see your computer desk has two rails on the bottom. Did you order an extra rail or make one? Your setup seems very useful.
Astute observation. I used a metal stud and welded ends onto it for attaching to the second set of screw holes. I wanted my subwoofer and computer to be sit underneath so I could move the whole thing as a unit — I just need to unplug the power and network cords.
Note the store photo has the brace in the center, while the sample ones have the brace in the rear …
White sample shows a centered set of screw holes … while the store does not appear to show holes at the end of the leg.
I meant to ask how you planned on motorizing/automating the up and down.
I assumed an attached gear motor with limit switches and a relay setup. but one hates to assume.
Saw this last weekend- It worked really well especially being the display on the floor. They are/were having 20% off desks at the time.
I would love to get these desks for our office, but they are no longer available. Does anyone know where to find them?
I wish they sold the drawer assembly separately so I could add them to the 4 tables I already purchased
I finally bought a white one with drawers assembled VERY well at my local Home Depot for $227 (military discount). I would love to get my wife a longer table and have the drawers to the far left or right as to add a keyboard tray.
My big Microsoft ergo keyboard can’t fit in the 8″ deep top drawer. It and my trackball are in the lower drawer and are working great!
These are in stock at the Marysville, Ohio store. $224 I think.
I’d like to buy this table as a music workstation. I have a Native Instruments S61 mk2 midi keyboard 39.6″ long, 11.7″ wide, and 3.3″ high. Will my midi keyboard fit into the bottom drawer if I choose not to use the top drawer? My midi keyboard is also weighs 14.44 lbs. Would that cause problems for the lower drawer? Also, how much height would I have from the lower drawer to the table surface if I don’t use the top drawer. I need to know if my midi keyboard will fit length and height wise.
Short answer: No it won’t fit width wise
Width (left to right) Deep (front to back) high (top to bottom)
The interior drawer (top and bottom) are 39″ wide
Top is 8″ deep and 2.5″ high
Bottom is 16″ deep and 2.5″ high
real-world measurements because this laptop is on this awesome desk
Thank you for your feedback. Assuming I remove the top drawer, if I put a 1.54″ thick wooden plank in the bottom drawer, so that the my midi keyboard is elevated 1.54 inches just above the top of the drawer’s walls 1.54″ high walls, would there be enough width to allow the drawer to close? I just need to know how much space there is between the edge of the drawer and the black rail that’s screwed to the table . The midi keyboard (a Native Instruments S61 mk2) is 39.6″ wide. As it doesn’t fit into the drawer, I was wondering if by elevating it above the height of the drawers walls, the drawer would be able to close or perhaps there’s not enough space between the drawer and the black rail? Thank you in advance.
Sorry, I didn’t mean to ramble there. Just trying to find out how much space there is between the edge of the drawer and the black rail that’s screwed to the table? I’m thinking that if it’s just 0.5 inches, I might have enough space.
Sorry for not seeing your question back in May. I received an email alert about this thread and posted a reply further down.
Quick answer your question: no your midi keyboard won’t fit.
Long answer to have it fit with modifications:
1. remove top drawer
2. Your midi is 39.6″ wide and with the rails still in there is only 39.25″ wide of space. Remove pop rivets to remove the top drawer rails
3. The depth to the back center rail where I believe the height adjustment mechanics is 10.5″ from the front edge of the desk. Your midi would stick out front a bit.
4. The bottom drawer bottom to the bottom of the desktop is 4″. You could create a thin board to support the midi, but the front handle is taller than the side walls of the bottom drawer . From the top of the bottom drawer handle to the bottom of the desktop is 3″. You could leave the keyboard out a bit.
My local Home Depots usually build a few for display this time of year. Last year I saw a few of different sizes built so I could compare them.
Good luck and Happy Holidays!
Thank you very much for your reply. Rather than buy a husky table with drawers which will not work for what I have in mind, I’m actually thinking instead of buying the both a 52” and 62” husky adjustable tables which Home Depot actually sells as a pair. They come without drawers so I would use the 52” as my midi keyboard table. Could you measure the width of the horizontal bar at the bottom which can either be placed in the middle or at the back of the husky work table? Because whatever the width is, that would give me an idea of how much the 52” table would stick out underneath the 62” table. Because of that horizontal bar or rail, I don’t think the 52” table could fit entirely underneath the 62” one.
The bottom bar on mine is 3″
Thanks again Positivewalt. If I do buy the pair, I’m wondering if I’d be able to slide one table completely under the other, if I decided to apply the caster wheels to one table and not the other. I think this would be the only way to do it. The 62” table would stay in place without caster wheels. But I’d add caster wheels instead to the 52” table. I’d then wheel the 52” table in and out whenever I use my midi midi keyboard. I just don’t know whether the 52” table could slide completely under the 62” table if I used wheels on one and not the other. Or would the 52” table still end up hitting the 62” table’s 3” wide horizontal rail bar? There appears to be a 3” height difference between using caster wheels and not using them, so I’m hopeful this will work out.
I am looking to buy 18 52″ adjustable height husky workbenches in white for an art classroom and one of the same which is 72″ to use as my demo table. Do you seel this and if so, could you shott me a quote as soon as you can?
Also, what would be the additional cost to deliver these preassembled?
Cedar City, Utah
If you can still buy these units, you might be able to hire someone local – via Task Rabbit or otherwise – to help with assembly.
Home Depot won’t sell these pre-assembled, unless perhaps you buy a floor model.
The desk is not hard to assemble. My husband finished it in about 1/2 hour. Great desk, have 2 for my 2 college daughters since they are doing online college classes at the moment. Being adjustable is perfect so they can sit or stand while doing their work. The drawers are good for phones, writing utensils paper, clipboard, etc. Nothing too thick such as a binder. There is plenty of space on top to spread out a laptop, books, binders, etc. The white is best for inside our house as we have natural wood framing.
I have found that HD does not honor the price of $199 for the white one, when I directed myself through the provided links. I found it first, when I visited today my local HD store. There it was poorly assembly, one drawer was damaged, I it was the only one in stock at $229. Therefore I have tried to find it online at better price.
Can the bottom drawer come out, so there is more leg room? If anyone set up a motorized set up I’d like to hear how.
Maybe? It might be better or at least simpler to just get the one that doesn’t have built-in drawers.
This person is using a cheap electric screwdriver on his Husky desk:
Yes you can take out the bottom drawer for more leg space. Pull the drawer back, look on each side for the slides and pinch the stoppers on the hinge and pull the drawer back to slide the drawer off the hinges.
I bought a 10mm hex socket to attach to the many power drills I have at home. This way I can adjust my desk to any height. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Drive-10-mm-Hex-Bit-Socket-H3DHBS10MM/202913545
Personally, I use the top drawer (it’s only 20cm/8in deep) to store my keyboard and mouse. I pull back the top drawer and the keyboard and mouse are ready to use (snake the cables through the back of the drawer). My legs don’t come close to the bottom drawer. When I’m done I close the drawer when I’m done for a clean desktop.
You use a power drill to raise and lower the desk? Which power drill do you use?
My only concern with using a drill instead of a cordless screwdriver is that the higher torque of the drill might prematurely strip the internal gearing.
That’s what the torque ring is for :>)
What drill do you use? What number do you set the slip ring at? What speed do you raise the table at, roughly, as in how much time does it take from lowered to fully raised?
I’d personally use a drill and set the torque ring low enough that it torques out without moving the desk, and then bring it up until it just begins to move.
Yes, I use cordless drills. I have a Dewalt 20V drill that I use. I pull the trigger halfway and slowly adjust the height. I also have an old, small li-ion Dremel hex screwdriver that I also use pulling the trigger halfway. I say in a year or two I’ll take off the top and stain the top another color and open up the internals and see what I need to lube.
Since both drawers are removable, yes, you may have more clearance for your legs.
Apologies, Tony. I forgot to look before I posted. Thank you for confirming the width of the rail bar for me.
All good brother. I appreciate your questions. It gave me some ideas for a second one
I bought one for my home office and want to buy another one but it looks like they are out of stock. I read at the top of the post that they were out of stock before. Hoping they restock. These things are very sturdy and worth the money.
I just got an email that they are back in stock.
Happy New Year!
3D printed a headphone rest , simple curve and a round peg that goes through the crank handle.
Bought my desk Dec 2019 and love it!
I know this is an old post but figured I’d throw it out there. How did you get a second support rail for the bottom? I see you have 2. I wanted another to support my PC on it. Thanks in advance.
It is a steel stud that I cut, bent the ends for the attachment holes, and painted.
Has anyone used this desk/table as an outside prep table for cooking ??
I think that’s a good idea. Customize the height of the table for you. Just realize that countertop isn’t prepped to be food-safe.
However, from what I’ve read I think I can use mineral oil or cotton seed oil
help seal it so I can use it for food prep