What’s your stance on Bluetooth and app-based tools and equipment?
Personally, I tend to much more strongly prefer equipment that work without apps.
In the case of OBD2 code readers, which read diagnostic codes from modern cars, I would normally prefer physical devices over increasingly-visible Bluetooth and app-based solutions.
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My stance on this changed about two weeks ago.
A maintenance light popped up in the dashboard of my wife’s car. I wanted to read the diagnostic code, and so I connected a ~10-year old Innova-made Craftsman OBD2 code reader.
No DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) came up, which meant it was likely a make or model-specific code.
On startup, the code reader asks you to input the make and model of car, and only goes up to 2013. Her car is a 2015 model that wasn’t in the code reader database.
Basically, this particular Innova/Craftsman OBD device is capable of reading enhanced codes, but not for the vehicle I needed to use it on.
Neither Innova nor Craftsman have any firmware or software updates for the reader – I checked online, found Innova’s updating software, and connected via micro USB to confirm that no updates were available.
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Because of this, I needed a new OBD2 reader that can read and interpret modern enhanced trouble codes.
I spent some time researching options, and weighed the choice between a new standalone tool and a Bluetooth reader. Some of auto diagnostic apps are free, at least for basic features, others are paid.
I came across the OBDLink MX+ Bluetooth-based scanner that will connect to iOS, Android, and Windows devices.
OBDLink has their own software, and their MX+ model allows for free access to manufacturer and model-specific diagnostic databases.
OBDLink says:
You also get access to hundreds of additional parameters that are not available over standard OBD2. Enhanced diagnostics are free with OBDLink MX+ and can be purchased in-app for other OBDLinks.
This is what I was looking for.
The MX+ seems priced at a higher premium than competing alternatives, but in my research I read about issues that can happen with random brands.
I also researched a couple of modern OBD2 code readers, but they were priced considerably higher if I wanted enhanced scanning. Even if I could find a model that had exactly what I needed, would the same happen as with the Innova/Craftsman scanner I had in-hand, where its usefulness would be extremely limited on future vehicles?
For me, this is a once-in-a-while type of tool. $150 was about the most I was willing to spend for a device and software. Pricier handheld solutions were out of the question, especially given how disappointed I was in Innova and Craftsman.
Lower-cost products, whether Bluetooth and app-based, or all-in-one hardware, didn’t seem to offer the enhanced code reading functionality I was looking for.
I wanted to be able to troubleshoot the current problem, as well as any reasonable future issues that might come up.
At least one 3rd party app recommends OBDLink adapters, and so it seemed worth a try. FORScan was also my second choice app to try in case OBDLink’s wasn’t sufficient. If that didn’t work either, I’d return the adapter and start my search over.
I bought the OBDLink MX+, and it arrived later that night via free same-day delivery from Amazon, which luckily was available in my area.
I downloaded OBDLink’s app, and followed its instructions.
The process was fairly straightforward, and it held my hand without my having to refer to a thick user manual.
I got to the bottom of things, or at least I was able to see what the car was complaining about.
Ultimately, I was impressed with how usable the Bluetooth code scanner was. It quickly connected with my phone, and was simple to use.
I trust that OBDLink will update their app and databases on occasion, allowing this device to be used on current and future cars.
I figure that’s part of the purchase price here – you’re paying for the adapter and OBDLink’s app and databases, whereas other devices cost less but don’t give you the same software capabilities. Or at least that was what my brief research showed.
If OBDLink takes their app down for whatever reason, this device is confirmed to work with other actively developed and supported apps and services, such as FORScan.
It seems that I am less likely to run into the same issue than what happened with the Innova/Craftsman OBD2 reader, which is outdated with no updates available.
I trust that the older OBD2 reader can still read common DTC codes, but that’s not enough these days.
Modern scan tools and adapters can also open up a world of monitoring features and options beyond troubleshooting maintenance warnings and diagnostic lights, and I might explore those more when I have the time.
$140 absolutely seems overpriced for a physical adapter, but I didn’t have to pay anything extra for the software or enhanced code database specific for my wife’s car.
Frankly, I would rather pay $140 for a physical tool than for a plug-in module that requires a smartphone and apps to make use of. The problem is, I couldn’t quickly enough find a standalone OBD2 code scanner that offered the same features, at least not within my budget range. There are ones that are advertised as having enhanced code reading capabilities, but at much higher price points.
If the need wasn’t so pressing, I could or should have asked ToolGuyd readers for recommendations, but I also saw it as a testing and review experience. This was an opportunity to go against my typical preferences.
In hindsight, my reluctance was a bit unfounded, and this seems like the perfect type of tool for Bluetooth and app-based integration.
I’m still very much of the mindset that standalone tools are generally better, but I’ll allow myself to stray from this on a case by case basis.
If this was more than a once-in-a-while tool for me, I might have looked closer at pricier standalone hardware solutions that offer comparable capabilities. But, while code readers have saved me money in the past, they haven’t saved me enough to spend hundreds of dollars on more sophisticated equipment.
I don’t regret the OBDLink MX+ purchase, and I look forward to using it more – but hopefully for monitoring and not any more dashboard lights.
I wish I was able to find a less expensive alternative, but it offered capabilities I couldn’t quickly find in lower priced models, and I found their marketing convincing, with respect to choosing it over slightly lower priced alternatives.
The fact that it has Android, iOS, and Windows software was another selling point, on top of the enhanced code diagnostics.
I do still wonder if I could have gotten the same enhanced code diagnostic capabilities for less money.
Another question remains – will this adapter still be useful 10 years from now? I would like to think that it will still work with apps and software that update with the times, but there’s no guarantee.
Fritz Gorbach
For $140 I’d say that it’s a steal! Especially if you get good data on newer and dealer specific codes.
A few years back I gave up my Innova scanner for a slightly used Snap On Modis Edge, with all the bells and whistles. Bought it for about 3k (probably closer to 10k new) and it’s been an amazing tool, and works way beyond my pay grade.
The previous owner subscribed to all the updates, foreign and domestic, so it was completely current until I bought in 2019.
But just the other day, I helped a friend out with some MIL issues in a 2020 Chevy truck, and sure enough, there’s some manufacturers specific codes newer than the last update. I was able to track these down with some internet research, but it added steps.
Anyhow, your device cost the same as about a month and a half of update subscription from Snap On. Of course, the Snap On updates feature more than just code information, but I rarely touch a vehicle that new, so it doesn’t affect me often .
If this keeps up with manufacturer specific codes alone, it might be well worth adding to my toolbox for $140.
Mangerms
I’ve had the MX+ for a few years now, they push updates often. The added parameters are so helpful. I like how easy it is to use and the dashboard feature lets you see if you have a bad battery quickly by just looking at the voltage. It’s a nice tool for the price.
Plain+grainy
A parts dealer in my area reads codes for free. Low batteries can cause a whole range of false error codes. Usually have to drive awhile before they reset themselves.
Stuart
Same here – Advance Auto offers this, but from what I recall they tend to use basic code readers. They can read a check engine light, but can they check up to date enhanced codes?
MM
Local auto parts stores can be hit-and-miss, and it’s not always new or obscure vehicles that are the problem. My work truck is a 1996 F250HD. You’d think that would be very easy to get scanned: it’s not new, it’s not old, and it’s a very common vehicle. That’s not the case, it uses a “heavy duty truck” data standard not the normal OBD standard that most passenger vehicles would use. The basic scanners that all the auto parts shops around here use for “free check engine light scans” are totally useless for it.
RCWARD
26 years old is old for a truck dude.
Bonnie
Old, but definitely not “hard to find parts for” old at that point. Even 80’s trucks are still quite common around me (we don’t salt our roads so older vehicles survive a lot better).
Steve
I’m still rocking a 78 F 250. Its not my daily driver but its a beast when I’m hauling my cords of firewood out of the woods.
My 03 Silverado could not do half of what my Ford does, and it’s a 3/4 ton too.
Uh, nor would I want it to. Its not as fragile sheet metal wise as an 2020, but it’s far from 78 steel.
itsgalf
I remember messing around with my OBDLink LX and the app Torque quite a few years back. One advantage that I saw of using these Bluetooth readers is that outside of just reading error codes you can use the reader and the app to show measurements of your car on your phone as you’re driving. I remember you could customize the dashboard on the app to show different parameters all on one screen. I’m sure this unlocks all kinds of other customizations for people that are serious car enthusiasts. I’m not much of a car guy so I never got too into it.
Lance
Agreed. I use the MX+ with DashCommand, OBDLink, BimmerCode, BimmerLink and FORScan. OBDLink offers extended code access on Ford vehicles which allowed me additional insight to troubleshoot a couple issues on my Transit Connect van. BimmerCode/Link allow customization of certain settings, programming, resetting of service data, battery management system reset etc.
The MX+ is a little spendy, but OBD app developers are most likely to certify on popular models and this makes the MX+ worth the premium in my opinion.
TonyT
I’ve heard that super cheap BT OBDII readers can have a lot of problems, and many won’t work with Apple; heck, OBDLink’s cheaper models won’t work with IOS, either. I have a fairly cheap (~$30) BT reader that’s worked OK for me (on Android).
So for $140, you’re getting iOS compatibility, and hopefully better hardware, software, and support.
I think BT + App makes a lot more sense for OBDII readers; equivalent stand alone readers cost a lot more, and I’d be skeptical about how much they are updated. In my case, I’ll stick with BT + App, and if I needed more, I’d try to get the full blown Mercedes reader (around $1K used IIRC, and supposedly can do things for MB cars that no other reader can. It’s a much more likely purchase if my next car is another used MB).
TomD
The bluetooth spec is like 3,000 pages long; Apple’s implementation is better than some but it’s also pickier; many cheap bluetooth chips don’t implement the whole spec, and what they do implement is sometimes (technically) wrong.
Rob H
I bought the Bluedriver and have had nothing but problems with it. My 2004 pickup actually freaked out when I plugged it in. Our 2014 minivan did ok, but I was afraid to use it after the truck fiasco. So many more electronics on the van to possibly screw up. I just use a basic wired reader now. I really wanted to see the advanced data the bluedriver should have accessed but I need functional vehicles.
Aaron+S
for $22 the Konnwei bluetooth version does everything I need. The community developed app for scanning EV batteries recomends this particular model, and there seem to be quite a number of compatible apps.
I have found that i need to disconnect my bluetooth headset to get consistent data.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073F57QT3/
Stuart
Thanks!
That one looks close enough to the OBDLink MX+ that it might the same or similar on the inside. I can’t find anything about KONNWEI’s apps however.
I saw reviews about how the OBDLink app is near-identical to another brand’s, and so it’s possible they source their hardware and software from 3rd party companies.
For my needs, I really needed that make and model-specific database, and the MX+ was the only one that looked to guarantee it. I found some apps that offered basic functionality, but make and model enhanced codes tend to be locked behind subscription or add-on costs. If the adapter didn’t work for my needs, I wanted to be able to return it in one-go, rather than be stuck with different app subscriptions or paid unlocks.
Nathan
Now you’re fully in my wheelhouse
I’ve had both the mx and the mx+. And I might get the USB one. I also have the HP tuners device because LS engines
Anyway love them recommend them all the time. I tell people buy the brand name because you plug it into a multi thousand dollar machine. Bad wiring crossed wires and etc can hurt the pocketbook
The other key is the software you use. On mobile I use torque pro and forscan lite
On windows PC I use HP tuners, forscan and jscan and something for gm cars but I forget what. Anyway deep probe software needs the right device. These work very well
If you want to tune I like a wired version but wifi and secure BT works. And with the right software and mx functions you can do things like check compression just by pushing a button. No plug removal no gage.
Anyway let us know if you have questions or the like.
Mopar
I like AlfaOBD over Jscan. A little more $$, and a little less intuitive, but it’s licensed for unlimited VINs.
https://www.alfaobd.com/
Nathan
Forscan does it all. There are dealers that use forscan as do some of the suppliers to ford
Get a windows license. It’s not much and you can program new keys if you need to.
The snap on and new Innova and I think it’s Mac tool is spendy. Alot of shops are moving to this as cars have used CAN buss for a while. Anyway. These things are great for the diyr. And for the people that don’t want to pay for a pro tool and pro tool servicing
Pietro
Forscan will not program keys if you lost them and will not do initial install of BCM; or all car theifs would be having easy time. Other than that, it is excellent.
Jared
I have a regular scanner, but I bought the “Veepeak Bluetooth OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner for Android” to keep in my truck.
It was only ~$20, but I’ve been pleased with it. I bought an app called “Car Scanner” for another $5-6 to use with it. I’m not suggesting that combo would do what you needed, but it works great for me.
My 2003 F150 throws an intermittent code for “unable to bleed up fuel tank” – by intermittent, I mean that 6+ months can go by with no code, then the CEL comes on, I clear it, and it will come back the next day – only to then go away for several more months. No pattern. I think my in-tank pressure sensor is faulty, but I haven’t gotten around to dropping the tank to check.
Between codes I also use the dashboard feature to check fuel consumption, coolant temperature, average speed, intake temperature, distance traveled, fuel trims, timing advance, throttle position … and a host of other things.
I don’t need to know any of that, but it’s one more source of entertainment on long trips!
After my budget experience, I could definitely be persuaded to spend more on a unit better suited to the much newer vehicle my wife drives.
Jamin
Did you have any concerns about data privacy? Do you have to create an account? Does the app require lots of permissions, etc?
I’ve been more privacy conscious recently since many companies have made it a business model to sell their customer’s data.
Stuart
Given how many junk mail letters and spam phone calls we get about vehicle warranties and such, I doubt there’s little more that an app can collect that isn’t already available to app companies.
If privacy is a concern, you can always field-test free versions of certain apps, or look into their practices.
I don’t recall having to create an account or input any personal information.
Jamin
I probably should have just looked at the android play store before my first post. It pretty clearly spells out what is shared (location, app activity, device and other IDs) and collected (location, personal info, app activity, device and other IDs). I imagine the type of data collected is similar for iOS, however it likely goes through a different gamut of checks by Apple so they can skim their portion of data under the guise of privacy controls or whatever they call it.
Again, none of this is unexpected but it is good to point this out in any mobile application review so others know what they’re signing up for to use that service.
Nathan
The only things I use that have my email are the ones I paid for
The others don’t.
When the connect they will have the car vin and it’s miles, age and etc. You’d be as exposed at any dealership or whenever someone take a pick of your license plate
I don’t worry but I do use multiple emails for things
MFC
I’ve had the OBDLink (LX?, it’s green) bluetooth reader for about a decade now and the app still works with it. Occasionally I have to update it but it still connects and spits out the codes I need. I keep expecting to try and use it and find that the app is no longer functional, but it’s always worked so hopefully that continues for the both of us.
MacLean Flood
Had a couple for a while. Torque Lite works perfectly on my 2001 F250. Bought a $25 license for JScan for my wife’s 2012 Jeep Wrangler JK…that didn’t work with my original Bluetooth adapter so I bought another…and that one works but so far has failed to correctly set the tire size.
Kevin+M+Smith
I’ve been using them since I bought my F350 in 2013. Combined with Forscan, I was able to change certain parameters and customize things, such as when I added the 65 gallon fuel tank, I could change the DTE and fuel gauge to account for the extra capacity.
I just bought a new Bronco and have been using Forscan to change things. I added Sport mode, the headlight & foglight behavior, stupid annoying chimes, etc.
I’ve used torque to read ODB codes and clear them as well over the years. It’s also handy for keeping an eye on exhaust temps when towing over the mountains and all kinds of gauges.
This is probably the most important diagnostic tool anyone can own for modern vehicles.
rob
I have access to an Autel but even then, some things can only be read properly by dealer software.
I have a bunch of APP only things and for the most part, they work very well. Lynksys, HubSpace, b-hyve, NEST.
Mopar
If you had asked first, this would have still been my recommendation.
For starters, it’s one of the ONLY ones in this price range that can access information on the newest high speed CANBUS certain late model vehicles use. It will also allow you to read and log data from all the various control modules. Very helpful when you need more than just a simple code.
Second, it’s not just a reader. It can also write. In other words you can make changes to the programming that normally only the dealer or manufacturer can do. Caution is of course needed while doing this, or you can really mess things up. Also you might need a vehicle specific security bypass cable as well.
What kind of changes? Perhaps you changed tire sizes on a truck, Jeep, or performance car. On a modern car, that impacts a lot more than just the speedo. Transmission shift points, engine programming, even wiper speed may all be wrong unless you adjust programming for the proper tire size.
Or perhaps you want to add some factory options your car didnt come with, say proximity door locks. On some cars that only requires a couple hundred dollars worth of parts, but you need to turn on that option in the computer.
Living in a rural area, one thing we do is reprogram the computer to allow you to keep your factory driving/fog lights on with your highbeams if you want. In the USA, they are disabled with the highs. But on dark rural roads at night, that extra light low and close really improves safety.
David Brock
Being able to configure your head lights really caught my attention. Are you also able to disable notifications that pop up on the dash each time the car is started stating that a backup sensor is malfunctioning? I have a couple of these that are not worth the cost to replace but would love to get rid of the annoying messages.
Mopar
It is all very vehicle specific, but if you found the right place for it, you could possibly tell the computer your car doesn’t have backup sensors. I’ve never tried that, but I know some people have ADDED various hardware options like adaptive cruise control, front cams, or proximity locks and turned those features on, so it theory I would think you could turn an existing feature off.
Ryan
Wow the price has skyrocketed, i paid $65 on sale for mx+ in dec 2019. The reg price i think was $80 at the time.
I had the mx already for forscan and alfaobd then bought the mx+ so I could use the code reader app with my iphone. I typically use forscan and the mx. The mx+ is annoying because it never links to my laptop, I have to remember that it automatically links to my phone and to turn my phones bluetooth off. It usually takes 5-10 minutes to remember so the mx+ is relegated to back up use or iphone app only. I use the app on newer cars that my autel wont work on.
I also bought the ex when it was on sale, it seems faster. I like the cord connection to laptop so I cant forget it like I have the Bluetooth ones. I hardly use it though, i always grab the mx even though there right next to each other in the computer bag.
Overall all 3 products have worked as expected. I updated all of them a few months ago and it was easy and uneventful.
Steve
I started to say, I don’t think I paid anywhere near 140$ for mine. It’s been great for some simple mods I’ve done to my F-150. I’d be skeptical of the off brands as well. I have this exact one – good product…
Matt
You bought the right thing. Buy it once and you’re good. I bought the usb one years ago and still love it, but wish I had that one so I didn’t always need the laptop.
Forscan adds some great features and diagnostic capabilities (having not used the device specific app). And it’s free now that you have a compatible adapter. I think it requires a PC to do full edit if you add/remove features, but should work with the same adapter. I’ve compared Forscan info to some local independent shops I trust (and at one time worked for) and I get the same or better info (with compatible vehicles) as they get – hugely helpful with diagnostics.
Daniel
FORScan has been great for me. I have used it to program PATS keys and to find out what the keyless entry password was. It saved me from having to tow my truck to a dealership for key programming.
Ryan
Its almost mandatory with a VW. Some dumb codes they throw leave the vehicle not drivable. Especially during the winter. One code was saying my door was open and wouldn’t let me start my car. I’ve taken in under warranty and was told all of the codes were just due to the weather. 100’s of codes a year. 2019 VW golf wagen 4 motion 🤷🏼♂️
Bonnie
I had a $25 basic model probably 10 years ago that I used with Torque free to pull some codes off my cars. I lost track of it a few years back, because *knock on wood* all our cars have been pretty reliable since then. For me the only thing I ever wanted it to do was pull the code so I could research it later elsewhere, and I saw no reason to add an extra screen and whatever associated e-waste versus using the screen I already carry everywhere with me.
Jack S
Sorry to sidetrack for this reachout. OBD2 read-only vs bidirectional scanners. My experience has been that the read-only scanners become outdated, limit troubleshooting and may not provide reliable/usable readouts. Occasionally, they’ve worked well-enough, but not for the more complicated repairs. It will be interesting to see how well the OBDLink MX+ performs over time.
It seems that a well supported bidirectional OBD2 scanner is the way to go for someone who repairs/maintains their own cars noting they’re at a much higher buy-in price point than the read-only scanners. One + is that it pays for itself (in most cases) if just one trip to the dealer/mechanic was avoided. (Like the quoted $1,000+ cost to replace a 2014 Camry A/C compressor when it was a bad $24 externally mounted A/C compressor sensor.)
After reviewing many (!) online “This is the best OBD2 scanner” reviews, the buy-once-keep-forever challenge I have is deciding on a highly functional and reliable sub-$1,500 bidirectional OBD2 scanner to maintain recent and future build American and Asian vehicles. Recommendations appreciated.
Nathan
As I said before the bigger issue is the software. Get the corded or wireless obdlink device. And software you like. And you might have to try a few
I don’t work many Japanese based cars but i have read a Mazda cars with forscan. And I hear there is a Honda software that does read and write. Car model specific forums are better places to sort out that part
Steve
As someone who has never used any type of scanner outside of the sketchy Autozone ones – will this possibly detect the parasitic draw killing my now 3rd new battery in my 15CRV?
I’ve spent hours watching youtube videos about how to use a multimeter, amp clamps, some kind of amp dog???? and mechanics wire, but it’s just me and I can’t be under the hood and under the dash at the same time. And, I’ve just spent over 10K on my work truck (new trans and diff), so money is tight now.
I’d gladly plunk down $150 to 200 if it saves me 8 hours of labor (at least) at the dealership.
J. Newell
Steve, I don’t think you’re going to be able to detect and log parasitic drain with one of these.
The theory that all those YT videos are using is dead-simple, but as you (and I) discover when you watch some, there are various different ways to set up the meter to monitor current drain, and there are vehicle-specific variables as well…a vehicle is not really shut down when you kill the ignition. Lots of electrical functions will remain active, some for surprisingly (and annoyingly, if you’re trying to test something like parasitic drain) long time periods.
Nathan
My mx and my mx+ both have had firmware and software updates. And there was a time I would leave the mx plugged in to my old car for data logging.
I like the feature set and how well it responds.
I tell people all the time you can’t work on a new car without a quality scanner.
Jason
I’ve been using Torque Pro and a BAFX adapter for years without issue. I’ve also used the Chevrosys app and the same adapter for reading codes, including ABS codes. Very cheap setup to have, but it is Android only.
I will note that you really should buy the BAFX (or other adapters) directly from the manufacturer if possible. In the car communities I’m in, we’ve found over the years that you can often get knock-offs, even from a listing that is sold and shipped by Amazon. Somehow the knock-offs get mixed together in their inventory system.
Scott F
Any feedback from a 7.3 Ford diesel owner on the MX+and whether it can read/interact with all of the special sensors and run the tests that can only be done by specialized programs? AutoEngenuity being one of the only consumer-grade ones I am aware of?
Have wanted to buy AutoEngenuity for a long time but haven’t because I would need to buy a laptop too.
Buzz test, reading the ICP/various other fueling sensors/etc.
Also…. I’ll buy it right now if anybody knows if I can turn this damn “you’re going to fast” chime off when I hit 72mph!! 99 F250 SD that started it’s life as a commercial fleet vehicle, cannot stand the chime!
Nathan
one of these with forscan should work – they do say that programing modules is best done hardwired or with the MX+ model. I have a hardwire version also but I use it rarely. I can’t guarantee it would remove that chime but I bet it would. unless it was something put on aftermarket – IE wired into the system and not in the module itself
Smokey
Did you use this on iOS, Android, or PC?
These bluetooth things are hit and miss, especially for iOS. I recently spent ~$30 on a Veepeak BLE something and it kicked ass with a $10 or $20 license for a Jeep Grand Cherokee using the JScan app, every command possible. I think it’s good for BMWs too from the comments online. However I haven’t found an app for that one that gives me anything real deep on Fords with the Veepeak.
Stuart
I used it via iOS so far.
Nathan
If on a Ford product use forscan
Adam
I bought the Veepeak OBDCheck BLE OBD2 for $33 and the BimmerLink and BimmerCode apps when I replaced the battery in my Mini with a higher capacity battery. It was unfortunate that I needed to buy these things just to upgrade my battery, and the BimmerCode app is a bit overpriced for my needs (I think it was near $100), it all worked pretty well and saved me a needless trip to the dealership, and who knows what they would have charged me. I imagine with many/most modern vehicles having such sophisticated software integration, these device combos are basically essential to being able to DIY pretty much anything on a car. And I would say the interface of an app will always be much more intuitive than the awkward buttons of a hardware scanner, which seem to always label buttons with weird acronyms or abbreviations of their functions, and have nowhere near the display resolution of a phone screen.
Chris
I have a BlueDriver. It’s been really cool. I don’t use it a whole lot, but it has come in handy a few times.
J. Newell
I purchased the same OBDLink MX+ in 2021 and have been very pleased with it. I had purchased a BlueDriver unit earlier and discovered that it couldn’t monitor some of the functions I was interested in. (I probably could have discovered that if I’d done more research before buying, but it’s not always easy to identify how these devices deal with manufacturer-specific data streams.)
I leave the OBDLink plugged into he OBDI2 connector full-time and have noticed no impact at all on the battery (and I think I would, because my vehicle sometimes sits for fairly long periods). I fairly often run the app while driving to monitor things like transmission oil temps and actual battery charging voltage.
In terms of longevity, there is a massive (almost three decades) installed base of vehicles with federally mandated OBDI2 compliant hardware. I think our obsolescence risk is much greater with respect to the many manufacturer-specific functions (which is sort of what I found out with BlueDriver). On the other hand, possibly three decades signals that the timing is right for a major tech change. That’s hard to know because there are all sorts of inputs, some of which are somewhat tangential, like the right-to-repair movement and the growth of EVs. Who knows where that all leads… 🙂
Andrew
I’ve got a basic one myself, and had a bluetooth one years ago that I used with the Torque app and have had good experiences with both.
The “cheap” ones can also remove current codes, but they can’t fully remove one of the types of codes (Pending or Stored code, I can’t remember the distinction) without the passage of time.
THe really expensive ones costing hundreds of dollars are the only ones that can fully clear codes, but they also offer a lot more driver info too, depending on the modules you pay for.
Funda
This is timely because my son’s 2014 Kia Forte had an airbag light come on. From the reading I’ve done, the associated codes are hard to read and I’m not sure if that is a hardware or software problem.
I do have an OBDLink SX (wired) reader but haven’t tried it with the PC application yet. I probably should before buying something else.
Any recommendations for hardware and software for a family with Kia and Toyota vehicles?