I have been trying to decide on a new compound miter saw, and it has been a tough process that has me flip-flopping back and forth.
At the moment, the Dewalt DW716XPS is at the top of my shortlist. It’s a 12″ dual-bevel non-sliding miter saw with LED shadow cut-line guidance. This saw has a maximum cutting capacity of 2″ x 10″ at 90°. It can can bevel left or right to 48°, and miter left and right to 50°. Without utilizing the back fence, the cut capacity is 2″ x 8″.
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My aim is to keep this saw – or whatever miter saw I end up choosing – mounted to a benchtop as part of a miter saw station, with raised benchtops to the left and right of it. There will be below-bench dust collection, and potentially a dust shroud to help capture more dust.
If I need wider cutting capacity, I can use a circular saw or table saw, or a test sample miter saw, as it seems I am always testing one or more cordless models.
LED shadow-light cut-line guidance is almost a must-have on cordless saws. Even though my miter saw station will eventually have rulers on the side fences, there will be times when a board will be marked, and not measured, and so a shadow of the blade kerf will still be handy to set up the cut.
I haven’t planned out the saw’s location yet, but as of now I don’t think I want a slider, as they simply take up too much space.
Here’s a tough question – what will it be used for? Now, I’ll move a miter saw outside if I need to make long cuts. Let’s say I need to cut a 2x4x8′ down to 60″. Or, let’s say I want to cut it in half. That’s going to require a 10-foot span of workbenches, which I simply don’t have the space for.
But, when cross-cutting boards for any number of smaller projects that I do, it’ll be incredibly convenient for me to have a “miter saw station,” where I can use a stop block and make repeated cuts at a saw that’s already set up and ready to go.
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So then my thoughts turn towards “well, maybe I should then go with a 10″ saw.” But that would result in fewer options unless I wanted to dial-back on certain features, such as the dual bevel angle range or XPS/cutline light.
I have also wondered if maybe I should buy a personal copy of the Milwaukee M18 Fuel 7-1/4″ sliding miter saw that I’ve been using so much recently. It has a 2×8″ horizontal cutting capacity, just like the Dewalt 12″ I had been considering.
While blade selection isn’t as good, I’m still able to find what I need. Last week, I picked up a Diablo non-ferrous blade for cutting aluminum channels. I’ve been flip-flipping about buying a 14″ saw for such work, but for the time being, miter saws with non-ferrous blades are good enough for most of my needs.
Something like the M18 Fuel saw can be bolted down for regular use, and taken outside or to a stand when I need to cut longer work than my eventual “miter saw station” can allow for. Maybe I can work out some type of quick-release bolt-down solution that allows me to slide the saw forward and out. That could be true for any saw, although it’ll be easier with something as small as as a 7-1/4″ slider.
I don’t work with crown molding; most of my miter saw needs are for cross-cutting project boards, shelves, or trim that can be cut flat against the base.
Most likely, I will flip-flop between choices until November comes around. There were some great deals last year, and so since my needs aren’t urgent, it’s safe to wait until then.
Tied for first-place: Dewalt 12″ dual-bevel DW716XPS, and Milwaukee M18 Fuel 7-1/4″. It sounds weird to me too, to consider a cordless saw for more or less fixed-position placement, but it’s a good saw that I love using, and one that’s far more portable than larger saws.
Following far behind those two choices would be a 10″ non-sliding saw, or perhaps a 10″ slider – maybe the new Ridgid?
Decisions, decisions.
What miter saw are you using right now, and would you recommend it?
In case you’re not familiar with the concept, here’s a miter saw station Google image search. It’s basically a long workbench with a lowered section at the center for a miter saw. The top of the miter saw base is at the same height as the adjacent benchtops, and there are often fences or other fixtures for setting accurate and repeatable cuts.
Frank
I’m a professional finish carpenter and cabinet builder and I say go with the Milwaukee.
I currently own a 12” Bosch slider, 10” 36 Volt makita, 8 1/4” single Bevel hitachi slider, 10” non sliding Bosch and the 7 1/4 Milwaukee.
I use the Milwaukee the most unless I’m trimming out a whole home or cutting something wider then 8” ( hardly ever), the makita would do great for you as well as you could butt it up against the wall due to its forward sliding system and the dust collection is better then the kapex.
Just my 2 cents
satch
Frank, great reply. I am not(I assure you) a pro carpenter or anything close to it. In your opinion, is a mitre saw sometimes a better everyday choice for handy work around the home than a portable table saw? I ask because I have an old Milwaukee non-bevel model that was a hand-me-down and is about worn out. I know how to use a table saw just fine but I am thinking about storage. With a mitre saw station you could build it thin and narrow enough to stand against the wall and not take up half the garage. Which is my limit right now. A two car garage that my wife expects to be able to park her car in.
I am already scheming a small knock off vesrion of a Ron Paulk style torsio box work bench that could knock down and store the same way. The mitre would have to be off the station to do what I want which is no big issue. I ask all this because I noted you like to use the 7-1/4 inch Milwaukee and I wondered if this size would be sufficent most tasks. Say, cutting 5/4 ×6 decking boards or a 4×4 post? A sliding model could help with depth of cut but I wonder if a person would be betrer off with a sort of generic 10″ standard mitre saw? Thanks.
satch
Oops. Should have read; torsion box work bench.
Frank
Thanks stach!
You should be totally fine with the Milwaukee, I’m building a IPE deck tomorrow with it.
But with that being said if you plan on doing a Ron Paulk bench you might want to lean towards the makita LS1019 due to the rail clearance, Ron runs a Kapex and it’s very similar to that.
I’ve noticed some of the miter saw’s with the rails coming out of the back will bump into the table when you bevel it, so the forward facing rails will avoid that.
Also if you plan on adding a table saw like Ron Paulk does the. The rails will be out of you way.
You won’t go wrong with the Milwaukee or makita though.
Good luck dude.
satch
Thanks for the nice reply.
satch
Frank, just wanted to add I recognised the LS1019 model number and went and looked it up. Yeah, I see what you mean. Having the sliding rails on the front of the saw makes a HUGE difference in not only clearing the fences but if you have to use it against the wall you can chuck it up against there pretty close and still have plenty of slide clearance.
I do what woodworking is needed around the home and do not really need a full on slider 99% of the time. So the Makita is largely out of my budget and needs. I know teams Yellow and Blue get most of the glory on mitre saws but from what I gather that Makita is one very well made saw. Again, thanks for the response.
Mike
My last miter saw died and I ended up restoring an old Millers Falls miter box and I’ve been using that a couple years now and really like it. That being said if I do decide to buy a new powered sliding miter saw I’m definitely getting one like that Makita with the rails in front. Those take up so much less space than a normal slider and ever little bit helps when you’re working in a basement shop like I do.
Rebecca Hylemon
I own a 12 inch sliding double ryobi. I have a woodworking.shop and I love it,plus the price was fantastic!!
Framer joe
That’s not the experience that my finish contractors have… better dust collection then kapex, not even close at all….
The Milwaukee chop saw either one has no balls…good luck cutting ipe…the larger maodel has serious bevel problems. The smaller one also
Frank
I don’t know what to tell you, I run both saw fine and am building an iOS deck right now, I’m a huge festool user 75 track saw, both Domino’s, 2 vacs, jigsaw, 5 sanders and 2 routers, yes it has better dust collection.
The kapex is a great saw But they notoriously have motors that burn out and is much is I love festool, I can’t risk having a motor go out on something that cost three times the price of the Mikita. And for what it’s worth I don’t think a battery Saw could ever replace a corded saw for a professional that’s why I own a corded Hitachi slider and a 12 inch Bosch slider, But they will replace it for 95% of the stuff we do.
Frank
*ipe deck.
Vito
I agree 100% ! The Milwaukee is a great saw for a handy man jumping from job to job. The dust collection doesn’t come close to a kapex. I wouldn’t use a kapex for cutting ipe I use mine strictly for trim. The best over all saw imo is the Hitachi C10FSH if you can find one. Best finish trim miter saw is the Kapex if you can afford it. The best saw for decking , flooring & running long boards like soffits & fascia boards is the mafell ks300. You cut right off the pile and cut time in half !
Ronald McClellan
Hitachis 12″ sliding miter saw will slide conventionally or forward, Great saw.
Tom
I own a Craftsman single-bevel 10 inch slider. It’s my first miter saw and I really feel like I am outgrowing it. I learned a lot with the saw, but I just don’t think that it’s ever been 100% accurate, no matter how much I fiddle with it.
I am in the same boat as you though…. for my next saw I definitely want to build it into a big workstation. I have really enjoyed having a slider though. 10 inch blades are less expensive and I like the big cutting capacity for making a nice (almost) square cut on a piece of plywood when I just don’t want to bother getting out my Kreg Rip-Cut and circular saw.
For me, getting a slider that can be fit close to the wall would be key. The Festool Capex seems to have the best design with the sliding bars more forward, but that is way out of my price range. I know that Bosch has a clever model as does Makita. I’ll probably end up with one of those.
JohnD
I don’t work in carpentry professionally and can’t buy and store multiple saws. I needed a single saw that was able to cut large stock when needed. I spent the extra $200 to get the DHS790. Being able to cart it off to the back yard without dragging an extension cord out is a nice extra perk.
The DHS790AB is $465 on Amazon atm. I got the version with the adapter and two batteries on sale last summer for $499.
Dewaltsickness
I currently have the dewalt 12” double bevel non slider and is the most accurate saw I’ve ever used. I’ve been a professional carpenter for over 26 years and have tried many saws. When the 7 1/4” cordless saw came out I picked that up when it went on sale. This is a very handy saw and if your trimming out a house with standard base and casing this saw works great for that. Sometimes you need more capacity so last year Home Depot online had the flexvolt 12” slider and the 110 adapter on sale for $400. I couldn’t pass up that deal and glad I got it because it has the capability to do everything. Love it and already had a lot of flexvolt batteries at home
Raoul
I have the Dewalt Flexvolt DHS790. It doesn’t hold me back. It has high capacity and works great on batteries. The only drawback is it is heavy but not a big deal if it’s going to be stationary. I recommend it highly (it is also durable). The only way I would consider something different is if space was a concern and I wanted something to hug the wall better then I would look at something that doesn’t have the sliders in the back.
Paul
After owning Craftsman and DeWalt for years, I purchased the Bosch 10-Inch 15-Amp Dual Bevel Axial-Glide Compact Miter Saw, CM10GD in 2016.
It’s the best saw I’ve ever used.
I always had the miter saws mounted in a workstation but this time I went with the Bosch Gravity Rise Stand. It’s freed up so much room in my shop!
Stuart
I considered that – keeping a saw in a gravity-rise stand – but I have a hard time keeping floor space clear. Having a saw ready for use and in a dedicated space will drastically decrease the time and effort it takes me to get to “ready to cut” stage, especially if the boards need extended support, which requires even more space.
Koko The Talking Ape
I have heard some of the Axial saws have alignment problems that basically can’t be fixed. I guess that’s not your experience?
Adam
I’ve got the 12″ version (GCM12SD), and it’s dead-on square to the best of my ability to measure. I just cut a bunch of 2x4s on it today for a small workbench, and all of the cuts came out perfectly.
I can see that it would be possible to torque the head if you tried to, but at least for what I’ve used it for, including cutting some pieces of oak for a project, there’s been no problem at all getting square cuts.
John S
I had one ultimately returned that had an uncorrectable alignment issue. The problem isn’t that it isn’t square, its that the mechanism can open along its travel axis “un-square”. This leads to burning on one side or the other of your cut. At any rate, there is no adjustment to fix the opening mechanism, it either is or isn’t forged completely correct.
Adam
Interesting.
Mine doesn’t seem to have that issue, but I’ll keep an eye out for it.
OldDominionDIYer
I have been using Ridgid’s R4221 12″ sliding Compound Miter Saw and I love it (I have mine mounted on their awesome gravity stand). Mine worked flawlessly after assembly and I couldn’t be happier! RIDGID really built a fantastic unit in this model. They designed a compound sliding miter saw that cuts 70 degrees in both directions, has the best type of cut line indicator, the kerf shadow LED marking system, it includes a blade brake, has great ergonomics in a solid platform. If your looking for small and portable this is not your saw, but if you can handle the size and weight, (especially if considering a bench install) it will likely be the last miter saw you will ever buy. I have yet to use all the angles but all my cuts thus far have been spot on. I did purchase the crown molding jigs and a second clamp so I won’t have to keep moving the one that is provided from side to side. I am completely satisfied with this beauty, and recommend this to my friends and family. By the way I am a DIYer, not using it professionally, although I think it would be a stellar performer for most professionals. The deep cut ability and massive 70 degree miter cut ability take this saw’s capabilities to the next level. May be to big for what you’re planning on putting together but it is quite a thing of beauty!
David A. Haggerty
Are you kidding me, that saw won’t make a square cut. You’d better check your cuts with a square.
ca
You should check out the Bosch “gliding” mitre saws. They have large capacity and can sit close to the wall. I own a DeWalt but I’ve used these Bosch saws at work and they’re pretty slick.
Nathan
reading intently – I’m in a similar boat but I’ve been thinking about it for a while. I don’t want a dedicated stand/table for mine. I don’t have the space for it anyway.
I put mine on a knock down dewalt stand I got years ago on fire sale. right now I use a ryobi 10 inch – and after fine tuning the square and such I not drop it on the stand at the end of my garage and I have a material support I put up as needed. I’ve about talked myself into a 12 inch non sliding device but the what and why – still up in the air. I also like the idea of keeping a 10 inch and doing a 10 inch slider so I have the same blade size as my table saw. Again Curious as to how this plays out.
Evadman
I have no opinions really, but 2 questions and a comment:
If the saw is semi-permanently mounted, will it be annoying to reach behind the Milwaukee to swap out the battery? Does the Milwaukee come with a wall power converter that would remove that as a consideration?
The dewalt has a lot better visibility on the right side of the blade than the Milwaukee does. That’s probably a bigger deal for a left-handed person, but the difference in visibility looks quite large.
Stuart
Not really – even if I build an ultra-tight chip guard, I could just swing the saw to the left-most miter angle and fold the saw down to make the battery more easily accessible.
Plus, there has to be some clearance, in order to reach in back to adjust the bevel angle.
No, there’s no AC to M18 power converter that I know of.
I swapped in a non-ferrous blade earlier today, and made (40) cuts in aluminum channel. I placed the saw in a box, but there were still shavings on me, behind me, and to the sides, with some shavings even going above the top rear of the box. Granted aluminum chips will behave differently than sawdust, a dedicated station will allow for better containment.
I am also *kind of* debating about the Dewalt DHS716 miter saw, which can come with an AC adapter and FlexVolt batteries. This saw was actually discontinued, which makes me a little concerned about spare parts. The DWS780 was a great saw, as is the DHS790, but I don’t want a 12″ slider if I can help it.
John S
Yeah I’d have to mirror the same conclusion. If this is being semi permanently mounted to a miter saw station, I don’t understand getting a battery powered unit of any kind. In fact, for the money (including the batteries) you can step up to some way better permanent and beefier models.
Jon Miller
Yeah, I don’t get it. Battery powered saws are a great thing to have for certain applications. I cannot figure out why anyone would want to permanently mount one, though. The saws cost more than a comparably featured conventionally powered saw, and there is simply no point in wearing out expensive batteries for a stationary tool.
Kyle
I would go with the Bosch knuckle saw if it was me.
Cr8on
I’m curious of the Delta glide saw myself, our work Hitachi has been a pain lately and I’ve been tasked with finding another…
Jon Miller
It’s a clever design, but more flexible (less rigid) and therefore less accurate than the Hitachi. The Delta Cruzer had the potential to fix the shortcomings of the Bosch design but ultimately just copied the same errors. That and the Hitachi being $200 cheaper made it a no-brainer for me.
Steve
If it’s fixed, go with the RAS! If you need portability just use a circ saw.
Robert
Exactly my thought. I picked up a mid-50s dewalt that is Green! And after building a bench around it, setting it up correctly, and finding a good selection of blades, I only use that now. I cross cut and dado, miter cut, and even rip. I built a height adjustable router station into the table and it does pretty much everything I need.
Matt Jones
I suggest you check out the Hitachi 12″ slider. It really doesn’t get a lot of press since it’s an older design, but I’ve used a lot of sliders over the years (Ridgid, DeWalt, Bosch slider and glide, Makita, Hitachi 7 1/4) and it’s the best over ever used. It stays true over long periods of time (unlike the axial glide) and still has the same close to wall advantage. My only complaints are the laser (versus shadow line) and lake of forward bevel controls, but it’s accuracy, adjustability, digital gauge, and compact footprint make up for it. You’d be doing yourself a disservice to not check one out (even if it is kinda ugly).
I’ve not used the Milwaukee even though I’ve heard good things, but I do appreciate the economy of 7-1/4 saws. If you’re not doing crown or larger timbers, they’re good enough for 95% of your work anyway and a crosscut sled for your table saw can cover most gaps.
Jon Miller
Yep. All that. It’s a great saw. And Lowe’s will match the Amazon price. Got mine for like $380 + tax.
ChrisK
I run a Festool Kapex and a Milwaukee M18 miter. Both great machines. Though I don’t have a mitersaw station for my Kapex I do have the MFT and the Fastcap wings. My Milwaukee normally sits on the tailgate of my truck or on a sawhorse.
rrich1
I have the Bosch Glide and am pretty happy with it. The action is smooth and it takes up no space compared to a traditional slider. The saw I previously had was the Hitachi 12″ Slider with the forward slides. I was very happy with that saw. The saw was bigger than the Bosch but I feel was a little more accurate. The laser was also spot on. The Bosch does not have one but can be added but only with the blade spinning. Neither had the greatest dust collection.
The Hitachi can be had for a great price from either lowes or menards. If you find a lowes coupon code it can be made even better. My local wood store as the new Delta cruzer and it seems like a great saw. The 10″ version of that or the Bosch would be great options.
I recently (within the last month) finished my miter saw station. One thing to add is a dust shield for the front. Mine is removable with magnets for easy replacement. Miter stations can be made in any configuration that you want or need. Mine is not in the most optimal space with just over 6ft to the right of the saw for my cut capacity with a stop block. Mine is positioned opposite as most people have the stop block on the left of the saw. With the Bosch either hand can operate the saw so it isnt an issue. I also have a door to the left so if i only have long lumber i can open the door and place the wood partially outside.
I placed vertical sliding doors in mine which I love. I have one door that holds nothing but router bits and accessories.
Marty
I have a festool kapex in my shop, dewalt flexvolt 12″ slidern and a hitachi fixed 10″. They’re all great saws, but the shadowline is definitely bwtter than even the lasers on the kapex. The dewalt is my go to saw for jobsites and the hitachi is great for punch list stuff.
I would definitely consider the new makita if I was in the market for a new saw. It looks like a great design and it’s been out long enough now to have moat of the kinks worked out. That would give you the capacity that you’ll need, but it also won’t take up an enormous amount of space.
Jon Miller
The Hitachi slider (I forget the model number; it has a 12 and an R and a C and 2??) may change your mind about sliders. Like the Kapex the guide bars stick out the front instead of the back, and the carriage moves over the bars instead of the bars through guides. It’s a big, heavy sucker, but it’s so much more saw than any non-slider, and I love having that kind of capacity permanently mounted in an always-ready miter saw station. It’s so nice to not need to set up anything to cut over 12″. I even find myself using it for small ripping operations, though the blade really isn’t meant for that. Speaking of the blade, it’s the best stock blade I’ve ever seen come with a saw. I haven’t even bothered to mount my (professionally sharpened) Diablo or Makita blades on it yet. Six months in and no complaints. I’ve used dozens of miter saws over the years, both my own and those belonging to other guys in their shops and on jobsites. This is my favorite by far.
Jon Miller
C12RSH2. And I forgot to mention that it has a laser. Mine came with the blade and fences all square to each other and the laser perfectly aligned with the left side of the blade, so the blade removes where the laser shines. I had to make zero adjustments, and I’m a hobby machinist with the tools to measure a very accurate square relationship.
Jim Premo
How user friendly and easy to read is it compared to the DWS780 ?
rick
if you design your space to work around the gravity stand, it helps a lot.
If you get something with the built in support and rollers, the height of the surrounding cabinetry isnt as critical.
Dominic S
Better to have the extra cutting capacity and not need it than the other way around. Yes, a circular saw gives you the cutting capacity you need but nothing will be faster than throwing it on your sliding miter. I currently use a single bevel 10″ craftsman compact slider w/ laser and I love it. I thought about going to a 12″ saw but then you lose your blade sharing ability with your standard 10″ table saws. I’m sure you can’t go wrong with any of the top brand dual bevel sliders. I’ve had sliders and non-sliding saws and I always go back to the sliders because they’re simply too convenient.
Michaelhammer
Do you ever actually share blades between the two? If you buy higher quality blades individually designed for each saw you will enter a whole new world of wood working.
David Funk
It sounds to me for what you’re doing your DeWalt pick is perfect. In a fixed location stay away from batteries, I would stay away from slider unless you really need to cut capacity. I envision you’re going to build face frames boxes and other small shop projects where that capacity is just fine. I’d also imagine that the cost of the saw is fairly cheap.
Nathan
Question – Re-reading your initial article are you planing to also use this saw on a portable stand. IE out in the shop to have the room for long boards – or to use like outside for the same reason?
If so do you have a stand in mind – would you consider the stand is the home it rests on and building your cabinet around it?
Stuart
Although I have a Dewalt universal stand and Milwaukee compact miter saw stand at my disposal, I’ve found myself placing portable saws on the ground or on a Dewalt folding workbench more often, when using the saw outside.
I would not consider semi-permanently mounting a miter saw to a stand because of the sacrifice to storage space.
My workspace is ultra-messy, they all are, and so my goal is to build cabinets for everything to have its place. A miter saw on a cabinet, with custom dust collection hood will allow for tools to be stored underneath, something I can’t do with a 4-foot folding miter saw stand, or a gravity-rise stand either.
Part of my internal conflict is the voice that says “but what if you need more?” What if a new product requires precise cutting of 12″ boards? What if I need to cut longer boards?
Most of my personal products involve boards less than 6 feet wide. But I had a couple of gardening projects this year that involved 8-foot 2x4s being cut down to different sizes, the largest being 5 feet.
So before I make any decisions, I’m trying to plan out contingencies for ways I’ve used a miter saw in the past but might not be able to accommodate on a miter saw station.
I also have my under-utilized MFT table and Festool track saw.
At the source of my dilemma – a miter saw needs a surrounding shroud to make up for lousy dust collection. Thus, if I am to use it in the garage, it should be in a fixed miter saw station with enclosure. If I am to use it in any other way, it should be outside.
Using a miter saw outside isn’t always easy, as the setup time can be a hurdle. If it’ll take 20 minutes to get a stand or table outside, and the miter saw, and the work, I am more inclined to put things on hold.
The way my life is now, I need to be able to get to the saw for immediate use. That pretty much means a fixed-location setup where it’s ready to go.
I’m a lot better at making tool decisions than I used to be. But with miter saws it’s particularly hard because they all have terrible dust collection. Well, except for the Festool Kapex, but I don’t want to buy a Kapex.
Michaelhammer
Don’t want to buy a Kapex? Price? Worth every cent. Stuart! Worth every cent! Fits closest to the wall, has the smallest foot print, it’s the lightest for when you take it outside and once you use it you will say, “oh yes, I made the right choice.”
Stuart
Over the years, I’ve heard a lot of negativity about the Kapex, ranging from criticisms about its build quality, to complaints about its motor burning up.
The price is also a big detractor, seeing as how it costs a THOUSAND dollars more than many other very capable saws on the market. That’s a thousand dollars that can be put into a future table saw, jointer, or band saw.
ktash
Since you have a Festool track saw, there’s an accessory designed to help you when you need to crosscut wider boards. Dave Stanton reviews TSO’s grs-16. It appears to be dead-on accurate. TSO is a reputable company, btw, US-based.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83H3V49Zk84
Everyone who has this seems to love it, with glowing reviews, I’ve not seen a bad review of it except the price. It’s a Woodpeckers-type price, but a far more useful thing than most of their one-time tools.
One of the cool things about it is how easy it is to set up, virtually no setup. Someone with a 10″ non-slider might find this a worthwhile investment since it solves a lot of problems with crosscutting wider stock.. One other problem solved would be taking larger or longer work outside using a festool tracksaw instead of moving your miter saw from the station. If you only had a few boards to cut down you could even use foam 4×8 sheets on the ground with the Festool.
Framer joe
It always comes down to one thing ….do you want the best ? Or do you have a price point? …..the best is Kapex period..for a shop….
On the job , every finish company in the last 30yrs I see using the Dewalt 12″ slider or the Hitachi….
Why get a fixed saw then wish it wasn’t later, Bosch has a nice saw also..for framing, everyone uses the dewalt 12″ slider, preferably the flexvolt..
Does it have to sit against a wall or is there room? … Milwaukee 71/4 No… Milwaukee 10″ No…DeWalt 7 1/4 No…no power……..is dust collection important?.. shadow line is the best on Dewalt..
Justin
One of my friends ended up with a saw similar to this one: Hitachi C12RSH2 (not sure if its the exact model or not, but looks the same).
It is a slider, but the slide can be moved forward or backward so it doesn’t need so much room behind it. This way, you get the smaller footprint of the regular saw with the added cutting width.
Honestly, unless I need to move the saw around a bunch, I’d always get a slider over a traditional miter saw. T
Jim Premo
Stuart,
Non sliding miter saws are more accurate than sliders. If you were to spend $1500 on the Kapex that may not be an issue. If can use your track saw for larger cuts. I agree with the idea of a battery saw if you are moving it outside to cut longer materials. I hate extension cords with a passion.
That said, I have a DWS780 in my shop, a Milwaukee 18v 10 in slider for the job site.
Nathan
I don’t think the KAPEX is the best mitre saw either. It has nice features but the price is so high you could buy 3 mitre saws and use each one for a specific need and still come out ahead of the game money wise. But I do get the appeal especially when coupled with that nifty marking gage device.
I mean for a fixed unit what about JET not that I’m actually advocating it.
I know you keep going back on dust collection but from what I see with a vac hose attached it seems most of the big names do fairly well. YOu mention using a hood – do you already have shop dust collection in place. are you planning to setup a second hose at this location for cleanup. I would.
For me I have to knock down and put back up my mitre saw setup every time. I timed my self with the current kit – takes less than 10 minutes – most of which is I think due to the dewalt stand and the quick attachment locks of the mitre saw bracket. So maybe it might help you to consider making your cabinet such that the saw of choice – sits on these brackets. That way when you need that 12′ boards or whatever and you want to setup outside – it’s as easy as taking off the vac hose – unplug – and pick up the saw.
Stuart
I recently bought a 1.5HP Jet dust collector, and for the time being I plan to duct it to individual tools. I also have a portable Festool that I’ve been using until I bought the Jet.
Built-in dust ports don’t collect a lot, and their performance is even worse when cutting anything else, such as aluminum with a non-ferrous blade.
Because my workspace I’d also a mixed space, there is a great need for me to have a place for everything. So, a miter station fits the desire to have a ready to go solution, as well as fixed dust collection box.
Nathan
Is it really true that a non-slider is more accurate than the best sliders? Has that been proven or just conventional wisdom? I read in one review the person said one of the benefits of the hitachi slider with the vertical handle was that it wasn’t as easy to induce wobbles in the action when sliding through the cut.
Of the ones I’ve used Dewalt and Bosch it does seem like you can wiggle it as you slide through a cut but it didn’t feel like the cut was really “off”. Is it more an issue for really tight joinery.
Jim Premo
Backed up with zero sliders extended, brand new and no play in the slider bearings, they can be dialed in tight. A piece of crown with a compound cut at the splice will show what is off as far as your saw settings.
This is why the Milwaukee 10 inch slider gets deserved criticism. The slide system is reversed and the play of full extension is present when using it as a chop saw.
BUT!! It weighs 45 lbs as opposed to the Makita 10 inch and the Dewalt 12 inch cordless models that weigh 80 plus lbs. 45 lbs makes it the only option as a portable saw. In my opinion.
Jim Premo
I have a Ridgid 7 1/2 inch dual bevel 18v. Cutting paint grade MDF trim stock on the flat , it is fine and weighs 25 lbs. It rules when cutting scribe mold and shoe molding.
The Milwaukee will cut any stain grade and cabinet crown that you can throw at it.
Curtis
One of my favorite miter saws is one I’m guessing no one here is considering, the Ryobi 18V One+. It’s just so small and light that I find myself using it when I otherwise wouldn’t spend the time to get out and set up a miter saw. It’s more than a little limited in terms of performance, but at 15 lbs and about half the size of most small saws I find myself grabbing it and throwing it on top of a box or tailgate or whatever flat surface is there.
I’d really like to see DeWalt or Milwaukee come up with something similar, but more powerful, as the Ryobi is pretty gutless.
Nathan
what blade is on the ryobi – Dewalt as that 7-1/4 inch 20V(18V) saw that I hear works amazingly well.
I think milwaukee and makita have one too
Grady
1> Dewalt 12in
2> Ridgid 10in slider.
Chip Herwegh
I have the Bosch 10” knuckle saw. It fits on a regular width counter top, it doesn’t need the huge depth for the sliders. Also I would go with the 10” unless you have specific need to cut really big things because of the price of 12” blades are significantly higher.
Adam
Though oddly, the saws themselves are almost the same price. The 12” is something like $50 more expensive.
Rod Wolfy
I like my Bosch 12″ knuckle saw. No problems with alignment. It sits mounted on a mobile cabinet in my shop, but it goes against a wall & I don’t loose the 12″ behind it. If I need to cut long boards, I move ther cabinet. Conversely, it’s much too heavy to move off the cabinet for some work on the back side of the house or at a friend’s home, which is why it’s bolted down.
For that, I have a Milwaukee 7 1/4″. It’s small enough to hang off a lag bolt on the wall and light enough to carry around. It will do 95 percent off the cuts in the field.
David A. Haggerty
Don’t get the Ridgid saw, it can’t make a square cut to save its life. I know, I’ve had two. Dewalt made square cuts right out of the box.
Aaron
Stuart- I’m going through this now so wonder what you ended up with. I’ve been using a 10″ Delta I got 20 years ago for $50 and it has been fine so hard to justify spending too much. I keep it in a rolling cabinet and can move it around.
I’m thinking maybe another 10″ but the Dewalt XR could be ok but afraid of needing larger cuts sometime.
Stuart
I’ve been dragging my feet over and over again. Will likely eventually setting on a 10″ or 12″ non-slider, maybe in 2 months when Father’s Deals start appearing.
Aaron
I just saw in home depot the Ryobi 10″ sliding saw on sale for $129 again. I’m wondering what the position is and if work getting. I’m still in the fence. My other option is to invest $20-30 on a new blade.
Mdd
Buy the Ridgid 7 1/4 ” 18v cordless saw – have to but thru directtools.com or one of their stores
( Not available any where else)
They say blemished but I have yet to see one that is … $299
Lifetime guarantee ! On battery and saw
Yes that is available on blemished items.
Milwaukee priced to high in my opinion.
And that’s only a 5 year.