Home Depot has started advertising new Leviton Decora Edge electrical outlets and switches, which feature a Wago-like lever-locking mechanism for installing wires.
Leviton claims that, with Decora Edge, wiring electrical devices can be as simple as Push. Click. Done., and that this is “the future of wiring.”
There are no screw terminals, and no need to loop wires.
Leviton Decora Edge is said to be faster, easier, and safer.
At launch, it seems there are 3 types of devices – tamper-resistant 15A outlets, a rocker switch, and a 3-way rocker switch.
The levers are color-coded – black for hot, white for neutral, green for ground, and red for the traveler terminal of 3-way switches.
If you have ever used Wago Lever-Nuts, you’ll be familiar with the installation process.
There are testing points in the rear, for use with multimeter probes and circuit testers.
Here’s a peek at the internal connection point. The lever makes an audible click when properly seated.
Leviton says that the size of the Decora Edge has a longer and wider strap, which aids installation in “oddly cut” drywall.
Multiple devices self-align for simplified installation, thanks to an integrated tongue and groove system.
Leviton says that their Decora Edge devices are designed to fit Midway wall plates, and also have breakaway tabs to fit standard wall plates.
The devices are also self-grounding.
A “standard strip gauge for all devices” adds to the convenience.
The outlets and switches are compatible with solid and stranded 14 and 12 AWG copper wire.
Here’s pricing as of the time of this posting:
- TR Duplex Outlet – $3.48 each (E5325-0SW), $24.99 for 10-pack (E5325-0MW)
- Single Pole Switch – $3.28 each (E5601-0SW), $24.99 for 10-pack (E5601-0MW)
- 3-Way Switch – $4.98 each (E5603-0SW), $37.98 each (E5603-0MW)
At this time, it doesn’t look like there are any color options other than white.
The new Decora Edge electrical devices look to be exclusively available at Home Depot, with no indication if or when they will be available elsewhere.
In Home Depot’s listings, a “Leviton Product Expert” says that these are residential-grade products (as opposed to spec grade), and that the outlet has a tab that can be broken off to separate the top and bottom outlets for separate feed applications.
Is this a Problem-Solver or Gimmick?
Most of the electricians I’ve spoken with or heard from passionately dislike the Quickwire and “backstab” installation methods found on Leviton and other brands’ electrical devices.
Even when a switch or receptacle features push-in connection points, they usually – if not always – also have traditional screw terminals. This gives electricians and installers some choices on how to wire things up. These outlets and switches feature the lever locking installation method exclusively.
I would presume that these devices are reusable, or at least easily removed, which should eliminate the frustrations and hassles of working with devices previously installed using Quickwire or backstab-type methods.
With no exposed metal parts, wrapping an outlet or switch with electrical tape, which some electricians practice, is no longer necessary.
Here’s the big question – are these indeed going to be faster, easier, and safer?
Is it secure? The devices are UL-listed, and so I’m sure Leviton and UL made sure of this.
Can these switches and outlets be used as replacement devices? How easily will the lever terminals accept wires that have been bent back to straight after being looped under a screw?
If you can’t get a good connection with a previously bent wire, does that mean the installer has to cut and re-strip the wire or install a pigtail?
Leviton says that the new outlets and switches are “DIY friendly,” and that they will also save pros time on the job.
According to Leviton, this is “the future of wiring.” What do you think?
Nope! I’ve seen enough overheated and melting Wago connectors to say that I won’t be quick to adopt these
Were they properly installed?
I’ve seen a lot of complaints about Wagos, but much of the time the issue is improper wire prep or installation.
I disagree Stewart – it’s backstabbing. It’s not a good connection and it should be outlawed. Low voltage connections are ok for this, but nothing over 50V. The electrical code is very stringent in parts of the code – this makes absolutely no sense to me and makes me believe large companies (profit) rules over common sense. They just won’t hold up under prolonged use under high or even medium use.
The best ones I’ve found have clamp style connections, which clamp the wire tightly – no need to loop the wire around the screw (which a significant percentage of the people do wrong anyway).
I’d advise against these…
To be 100% honest with you, I don’t install them, so I don’t know that answer. I usually see them after a circuit fails, and it’s generally been someone unqualified to begin with that dod the bad wiring, so your point could be valid.
But again, if these are purchased by “unqualified” persons also, then we will see the same issues.
“But again, if these are purchased by “unqualified” persons also, then we will see the same issues”….but would this not be the same with normal receptacles, switches and wire connectors? When “unqualified” people do things, don’t you see problems in the field, regardless Wago type or standard connectors?
If they’re easy to use improperly that’s still a mark against the design. Particularly for a DIY-focused product like this.
Considering how often I see wire nuts installed wrong, don’t just blame the connector. BTW, I am not an electrician, I have found failures doing car audio. Yeah, numbnuts install wire nuts wrong under your dash. Now imagine what those geniuses are doing in your walls with high voltage.
Joke’s on you. My residential electrician doesn’t install car audio!
I am not an electrician, but I talk to a lot of them. All of the Wago failures I hear about are the push connect style, similar failure to backstabs. Lever Wago seem to be perfectly cromulent, albeit more expensive than wirenuts.
Thanks for helping to embiggen our awareness on that failure type
Also, thanks for “cromulent”, and lets not forget “embiggen”
I use Wago (lever lock in 2, 3, 5 conductor sets) and only once had an issue, and that was during installation testing (I failed to fully seat a neutral tail). Other than that, no issues ever. They are far less using space in a tight box, than wire nuts). And I’ve found wire nut caps off with the coil exposed. Which then means taping them.
But I’m no fan of backstab outlets/switches. Too many fails in condo/townhome. Which I suspect these are for… fast and dirty installs, mass housing.
However, if the levers lock and and not easily released (effortless), and I can see being a bit safer with no exposed screws, and less time used to wrap wire… jury is out on this. I’m still fighting with TR tamper resistant outlets and some newer appliance plugs not going in.
*You still need to have pigtails if multiple outlets or feeds.
I think I’ll stick with Leviton “commercial grade” outlets and switches.
The switches are honestly kind of expensive but the outlets are only like $0.75 more each and are SOOO much nicer than the residential grade junk.
Agree 100% The outlets are absolutely worth the extra money. Total difference in quality. I have used a few Wago’s here and there but the bad stories scared me off.
Agreed. “Residential Grade” is a non-starter for me.
100% agree with this. Commercial grade stuff is typically the way to go.
Industrial Hubbell HBL 5262 are the only ones I’ll use.
Rear entry with a full wire screwed down clamp.
That is my preferred style of connection as well. The wire goes into a hole in the back and gets clamped down with a screwdriver.
No way Wago! For example, finishing up on my 2-story shed (60A service) and only used Leviton commercial grade outlets and switches. Not a fan of backstabbing or any “speed” connection vs wired with the exception of a very low amperage device designed for it (e.g., Lightolier LED ceiling light). I’ll put forth the extra cost and time to wire up commercial, then sleep well.
I’m not an electrician, but I’ve installed plenty of outlets. If this works and is robust – awesome! It certainly looks faster and easier – it’s just the “safer” I’m wondering about.
I’ve installed many many hundreds (prob thousands) of switches and plugs, timers, etc. so this is one area I can actually speak from experience. Stripping, hooking and installing wires is not that time-consuming, and you end up with a solid mechanical connection (assuming it’s done right). When you go to push everything back in a box, you don’t worry about a connection getting wonky and on the off chance something does get weird, you can see it. With this, wires are going to bend at the point they exit the device, and likely at sharp angles if the box is crowded and/or shallow. You also won’t be able to visually check your work, before or after screwing it into a box. I’m not saying it’s bad, maybe they have a better mousetrap on their hands, but I would take a pass.
Yeah, even as a DIY/homeowner doing his own wiring, I have never considered wrapping the terminal to be difficult or particularly time-consuming.
I love Wagos, and I would definitely give these a try. Except… the old style Decora switches seem to have only a modest lifespan. At my Dad’s apartment building, the electrician had a full time job, going around and replacing broken Decora switches. I don’t know the exact age of these switches. 15 or 20 years ? That’s a wild guess. Normal toggle switches seem to last forever.
We’ve used spec grade Decora switches and receptacles for decades and have never had a failure. Exactly the same results with spec grade toggles etc.
The Leviton USB chargers in both the older A and now the C plug versions have yet to fail either.
Mostly 12 gauge wire as well.
I’ve had a few toggle switches fail on me in 1-3 years. Others feel mushy and I’ll be replacing with higher grade when it bothers me enough, but I digress.
Maybe people tend to be harder on rocker switches, such as by using their elbows instead of fingers?
That’s the whole point of the rockers in my opinion, you can bump them with various other body parts when your hands are occupied.
But if one fails from that I replace it with a motion sensor instead.
So, we use wagos all the time so I can’t see any more of a fire hazard from these and if they’re properly engineered then this will be faster, however, I can currently get 4 conductors to each side of an outlet, though I’m usually just doing two so these would speed up install for 98% of the outlets going in residential.
However, I would want to see these in a 20 amp configuration because I only run 20 amp receptacle circuits and would never use a 15 amp receptacle on it regardless of what code says because I’ve only ever seen fires started from 15 amp plugs melting when a home owner turns on a space heater somewhere down the line. AFCI’s were made to address this kind of issue and I pretty much use AFCI/GFCI for every single 120v circuit in a home now, but still, you can’t be too safe with electricity.
If you are looking for a downside for these that does not involve safety: The switches (at least, don’t know about the receptacles) have “Leviton” molded into them. Not only do you see the name of the company, but it is recessed and will probably accumulate dirt.
However, I did pick up some and they seem pretty solid and the installation was easier (as a DIY).
IndianaJonesy (Matt J.)
100% on the name thing. I have the normal decoras with these recessed names and they get disgusting, especially the disposal switch. Terrible idea on leviton’s part.
Depends on the longevity. As a commercial guy I have to install commercial grade outlets. If they made them commercial grade quality and modestly priced I would buy them. So many good ideas in our industry end up getting tossed out because companies will charge a huge premium for innovative products. Usually they price it so it comes basically exactly the same as if you did it the traditional way. But the traditional way has fewer risks.
Please explain the differences between the regular or residential outlets & switches, vs the commercial. What kind of difference is there?
15A is a no go. We only install 20A receptacles these days for durability reasons.
These are more expensive and lower quality, so that doesn’t help.
My biggest worry is working in a crowded multi gang box and pulling these out of the box and the wires pop out the back like the garbage stab-locks.
I only see DIY-ers trying these and that’s not a good thing in my opinion.
May I ask a question ?
Do you install 20A outlets on a 15A circuit?
I sure hope not, but I’ve seen plenty of 15A outlets on 20A circuits…
15A outlets on 20A circuits is code compliant.
That’s code, as long as there’s more than one outlet.
I should have clarified. We only install 20A receptacles and 20A circuits unless someone specifically requests 15A (no one does).
I price 20A into all my jobs. Customers are aware as it is in our quotes and I can easily explain the benefits to anyone that wants clarification. We have a 1 year “no questions asked” warranty and not having to send guys out to troubleshoot breakers tripping from portable heaters pays for itself pretty quick.
The cost is also pretty negligible when buying in bulk at supply houses (you’re doing it wrong if you are buying your wire and devices from home depot as a business).
Which supply house do you use? I do the same and always spec 20amp circuits for all receptacles.
Thank you sir!
I am currently visiting my grandmother in Japan and have been doing some light electrical work around the house. In doing so, and in doing the associated research to see what ‘code’ is over here, I have found that pretty much everything in residential electrical installed in the last 30 or so years has been wago style releasable backstab devices. A light fixture I installed was actually labeled as being incompatible with screw terminal light mounts that exist in older, Showa era houses. I have always been anti back-stab but this realization has given me a new perspective on the reliability of these setups, when properly installed (any electrical installation over here needs to be done by a licensed individual).
How many “pros” use a torque screwdriver to ensure that terminals are properly torqued? My guess is only a small minority due to the time and hassle of doing so, even though the manufacturers specify an installation torque. There is even a subset of “pros” that will use backstabs if they are available. And DIYers are even more likely to do substandard installations. With that in mind, I think it is quite possible that these new Leviton devices could ensure more consistently safe installs on average, not the opposite.
Some comments express concern with how good the Wago-style clamps hold the wire. But they are UL listed. I’m inclined to trust the UL testing.
I checked to see how my 220V outlet was wired up in case I needed to switch it. It was newly installed a year or two earlier by a professional licensed electrician. The screw was completely loose and maybe never tightened down at all.
With level lock terminals, as long as the wire is properly stripped, there could be fewer opportunities for error.
Wago connectors are also UL-listed.
I’ve had similar problems with “Pros” not tightening breakers and other devices. With old fashioned screw terminals you get an “A+” connection 99% of the time. With Wago and this Decora terminal you’ll probably get an “A-” connection 100% of the time. I’d rather have the latter.
That one failed connection can make a real mess.
This is a really good take that is making me reconsider everything I thought I knew about wagos.
My entire house was wired with the backstabs on the $0.50 switches and outlets. New construction in 2014. Super frustrating when making any changes. None have gone bad yet, surprisingly.
I’m not sure of your experience, but just because it is UL listed, doesn’t make it right. Backstabbing (which is all this is) is not a good connection. I’ve seen countless failed connections because of this – it shouldn’t be a thing. Even in my house that is 5 years old, I had a failed backstabbed device. I went through and changed them all. Outlets get used – there is movement of the device when you plug things in/out. Heat and cold cycles with power being used. This connection is a weak link. It will work for a while, but they fail, especially under a larger load. I can’t understand how these things are legal…
But wagos are not the same thing as backstabbing. You can make a great argument that screwdown connections are stronger and have less resistance than wagos, but lever lock wagos have a much better connection than cheap push-in connectors.
The largest number of failures in plugs and switches I see are related to backstabbing. Specifically, the plastic around the current-carrying parts gets brittle over time and breaks from the pressure of the wire. Any time the connection is reliant on pressure from a bent piece of metal (a la backstabbing), it will wear out. Granted, the lifespan of these devices might be the same as current options.
Is a lever lock faster? Yes. Easier? Yes. Is it a better connection? I don’t think so, from experience. Is a wider and taller frame better? Inarguably yes. All in all, it does seem like a solution to a problem nobody has. I see this being useful specifically in apartments (high volume, repetitive connections) with 15A circuits and nothing else.
I mean with that logic there are circuit breakers and standard switches and other stuff that fail also. Pros muck up installations probably as much as diyrs do. And that’s less a dig on pros than their management. Wire up this 2600 sq ft house today. By your self.
Anyway. I hate taping installs and worse I hate untapping an install to fix or modify it. Some company makes outlet boots but that sucks too. I live in a place that taped outlets aren’t code. But some do it. I get the concern but the separation is there for a reason. I hate backstab. I see less of that in newer homes now. My 2013 house doesn’t have any.
All that to say. My 1 concern is the lever breaking 3 years later when you want to trade the _____ out for something. Like a dinner lever breaks off and now what. 2nd concern do I need/want the cost. And for that no. But I see the appeal for people like my neighbor that is terrified of electrical
I like the spacing helper and the test point. But they had to add that once you couldn’t touch the wire. I see this as the improvement and replacement for all the backstab installs. At great cost
Your neighbor who is terrified of electrical should not use these or do any electrical period….they should always call an electrician. If they are terrified but also cheap (to not call an electrician), then you should explain to them how terrifying and expensive a house fire is.
I am all for DIY, but you have to understand what you are doing, to a certain degree, otherwise, leave it to a pro. At the very least, DIY it and then have a pro or inspector make sure it is done right.
On that screw torque thing. Last time I was in an electrical supply store some company was marketing with a torque set driver of some sort. Forget the name but it was one of the breaker makers. Eaton maybe. I thought it was a great idea in general
Torque screwdrivers seem to be much more common in Europe, from what I’ve seen. They also seem to be in use in HVAC, maybe due to the consequences being higher for an improperly torqued leg of a 50A 3-phase connection (compressors destroyed by single-phasing, etc.)
I get the torque argument, but I really haven’t seen even half a$$ wires wrapped around screws, the wrong way fail. I’ve seen plenty of backstabs fail though. That’s all these are – big no thanks for me…
No argument from me about backstabs. They are universally terrible, in my experience.
Several commenters are claiming that these new Leviton Edge devices are the same thing as backstab connections. That is not true. I’ve linked a video below that shows the Leviton device disassembled and compared to a backstab device. The Leviton Edge is clearly more robust. The Leviton Edge is not as secure as a *properly installed* wraparound screw terminal or compression/plate terminal. But I think it is clear that the Edge devices will result in more consistent, safe connections compared to backstabbing. And given that there are many subpar installations with screw or plate terminals, the Edge devices may be better overall.
If you are one of the good guys that uses commercial grade devices and a torque screwdriver, then the Leviton Edge devices aren’t for you. If you don’t trust yourself or your installer, then I think the Edge devices may be a game changer.
Good video, thanks. While I still like screwed down connections, the Edge (and Wagos) are better than a backstab or a poorly done screw connection.
The flaw that I see in backstabs, and to a lesser extent, Wago and Edge is that the contact surface between the cylindrical wire and the straight edge of the outlet side of the connection is minimal compared with what you get with a well wrapped wire and screw. This creates a potential high resistance connection and a hotspot. Not a problem with a cell phone charger plugged in but connect a space heater and it’s a different picture.
It would be interesting to see some thermal photos of these connections, in use, with a high load. I’ve taken some of circuit breakers that weren’t torqued to spec and they are enlighting.
As luck would have it, the same youtuber linked above did a video just last week on exactly what you are wondering about:
In short, the Wagos do in fact result in more heat relative to both a wire nut and direct wire (screw terminal) connection. But this is only useful information when there is a meaningful threshold to compare to. In this case, a useful threshold is the design temperature of both Wagos and wire nuts: 220F. When compared to the design temperature, the difference between Wagos and wire nuts is negligible.
IMO, it is possible, if not likely, to have a poor quality wire nut connection 1 out of 1,000 times (or perhaps much more often for bad tradespeople or inexperienced DIYers). The Wagos may have less contact surface area (although meaningless in practice), but I think are extremely consistent, possibly leading to less error and safer installations.
There’s more to connector design than contact area; for example, oxides can build up on the wire and contact which increases resistance. That’s why gold coating is so popular for high quality connectors: it’s very resistant to oxidation, and is a fairly good conductor.
Phoenix and Wago claim that their spring clamp / spring cage connectors are better in this area than a screw terminal. (Note that is might not be true for Leviton’s products).
At work, our machines use a mix of spring clamp (looks similar to these), screw terminal, IDC connectors; in the past, we used mostly screw. We mostly use Phoenix with a bit of Wago.
Thinking back over feedback from the techs in the field, I’d say the most important factor is the quality, because we haven’t had major problems with any of them; the biggest issue was screw terminals getting loose on the contactors, and even that doesn’t happen often (cause could be poor installation or vibration; screw terminals don’t handle vibration as well).
Note that industrial is a bit different; for example, we never use solid wire; it’s always stranded wire, normally with a ferrule on the end.
Count me as a Wago fan. Properly used, they’re a huge time saver for both installation and troubleshooting. They keep the terminated ends of wires relatively neat and clean, no worries of metal fatigue, no chunks of wire breaking off at the top of your wire nut sending you scrambling doe another one.
Most of what I use them for is 24v, but I have no issues with using them within their amp rating on 460v.
For a residence using LED lighting – I’d have no problem with using the switches. Iirc the smaller Wagos are rated for up to 30 amps, so I wouldn’t have an issue with putting these on most general purpose outlets as well.
I like them, but I’m just a DIY guy. I first came across them in our RV installing a new control panel for the AC and my goodness did they make that job easier. I was unsure on quality but there don’t seem to be so many issues with the lever lock ones, at least that I have found. Time will tell.
But as a DIYer who knows his limits, I like this option. I won’t run circuits or anything like that, but am more than capable of changing an outlet or switch, and this is certainly better than the push method (which I won’t use, but our previous house was definitely wired that way). Now will I pay a premium for this versus a screw outlet when I’m probably not going to touch it for 20yrs? Maybe not.
I could live with it, if it becomes the only option. But, I do still prefer side screws. I prefer Wago Lever Nuts in the situation that I’m connecting the input wires out to a set number of places, so that I can outright label each Wago as being the one at fault, should a problem arise.
But, I don’t usually do entire house wiring. And I’m not a licensed electrician. So, I’m only thinking of times when I’m modifying furniture to have a power bar in it, or making a tool-safe power bar itself. If ever I’ve used something on house wiring, in a pinch, I just go for lug nuts. I’ve usually used the previous couple generations of Leviton (and similar) products, typical lever switches, and two round recepticals, or the Decora line where everything is made all square and pretty. (Not knockng them, they’re just the same with a different face.)
I honestly don’t know about these. They seem over-engineered to me. Not for actual electricians, but rather for first-time homeowners and project builders. It looks like it’s for the DIY market more than anything. Considering how easily they are just, flipped open and removed… I would see them more at use in temporary positions, like science fairs, home staging, anything that means you’re going to remove it as soon as someone decides something, or it’s going to get packed up.
Just because I can see some usefulness, doesn’t mean I recommend them. In fact, I’m a little wary of them. The old terminal way wasn’t broken. What are they trying to fix? And who has to go that fast to wire any of these components? It’s already a very fast process.
I think the best part of this is the self aligning tabs. I *hate* trying to line up two or three units in a box.
I don’t trust Wago or backstab for anything with high current. Perhaps they would work better in the part of the world where everything is 220v, and current is half of what we use in the US.
I don’t think Wago Lever Nuts are meant for house wiring at all, in a purely personal opinion. The levers make them extremely temporary, so really they’re best served as temporary connections, until you can put proper Lugs on the wire connections. If they melt the Wagos when you plug them in/fire them up, then consider them to be fuses/circuit breakers. It tells you when you’ve overloaded things, allowing you to change the wiring so you don’t blow it on the second attempt.
Otherwise? Wago makes products that are great for experiments and small projects. Power Bars, Temporary Circuits being taught in a Classroom, Etc. I just don’t trust them in permanent in-wall/fixture circuits.
They were seemingly developed for industrial applications and are under-spec’ed for residential use.
I am an electrician. I will buy these. No need to screw, no need to wrap tape, no need to teach apprentices how to create j hooks. No need to prefab boxes worth. Easy as those snap on recepts but far easier to take apart and without a second piece.
Man hours are stressed upon us. Faster installs without go backs or needing extra pieces means this is a winner. We earn a high wage. We also have to prove our worth. These just need to be all tamper proof and we need a gfci model.
No more stripped screws, no more worrying about terminating stranded wire, no more push in, no more BS.
I just need a tab to break for half hot plugs. And gfcis. And half hot controlled gfci
Callbacks are the key – an elechicken who notices that all his callbacks are a certain type of connection will stop using that connection, even if in theory that connection is just as good.
“The levers are color-coded – black for hot, white for neutral, green for ground, and red for the traveler terminal of 3-way switches.”
There are several methods for wiring a three way switch circuit. While the red conductor is almost always a traveller, this is not always the case. Also, a white is often used as a traveller, and sometimes a common. I see this as a way for a DIYer with no electrical experience to get into trouble quickly by simply attempting to match up the colors. There’s also the issue of the grounding (bare or green) conductor(s) and how they must be bonded before connecting to the device.
There’s also the issue of multi-wire branch circuits which can not rely on the device for grounded conductor continuity (white wire). An improper installation here combined with a loose grounded conductor can introduce 240 volts on the circuit and do some real damage.
An experienced electrician will likely be able to save some time with this set-up, but that same person can install a device using traditional methods pretty fast. This product is clearly aimed at the DIY market where there is too much room for error by inexperienced people playing electrician.
Backstabs are not the same as back-wire with a clamp. This is closer to the latter, and I think it looks fantastic.
Especially having a proper lever for the ground wire. It’s always so much more awkward to get the ground to loop around its screw, but here it’s co-equal with the other terminals.
I share others’ 20A hesitations, but for that I can just use regular Wagos in the box to pass the 20A circuit down the line, with pigtails to serve the receptacle. It adds a dollar, but I’m not doing a thousand of the things.
I installed 17 of the 3-way light switches last weekend (not all of them were used as 3-ways). They go in super fast and the connection is solid. I pulled on all the wires to test them. This is not a back stab, the hole for the wire just happens to be on the back. Removing the wires is simple as opening the lever. I had to do it a few times to figure out the wiring for a traveler that was using a white wire instead of red. I did have to straighten wires that used to be hooks but didn’t have any issues with slightly bent wires holding in the lever. I liked these enough that I’m going to do all the outlets with these next.
Interesting how many negative Wago comments there are here. Wagos are pretty much standard use in Europe for the last decade (240V mains) without issues BUT there are plenty of poor copies on the market. Unlike a wire nut, a Wago has a few parts that need to be up to spec to work properly
I’m sure these outlets will be fine – but I don’t really see the need for them. As far as Wgos go, they do help out in many situations – just make sure they are the real deal
The backstab argument could have been avoided by just referring to the set screw, but it is still backstabbing. I won’t even use the straight wire compression plate – still backstabbing. Loops are not hard.
I won’t buy these. I’ll charge extra if a customer specs for them. Idk who leviton made these for, but they didn’t design them for the trade. Designed to fail.
Also, why are there ‘test’ holes for the meter – in the back of the device!?! Why would I not just use the blade slots in the front? Garbage marketed as a gimmick with a higher price tag.
Hard pass. I hate product designers marketing crap directly to consumers. I expect a recall on early models
Wagos are a whole different argument. I use them a lot in hot work. They look very clean in j boxes. Plus people are terrible at pigtails
Let’s say you want to read the voltage of the hot or neutral compared to ground – you can’t do that with the front of a TR outlet. Since the connections are internal, and they lack external metal terminals, you need test connection access.
I’ve used an ordinary multimeter to make those measurements from the front of tamper-resistant outlets many times. It’s simple: insert both multimeter probes into the hot and neutral slots simultaneously. This defeats the tamper-resistant mechanism and gets the probes in. Then remove one probe and transfer it to ground while the other remains in place in either the hot or neutral slot.
This. I do this regularly. They also have bladed/prong leads for the meter. I can’t think of any use case for removing the outlet to test it. I’m gonna remove it – then throw it away and use a real one
I replaced all the switches and outlets in our home with Lutron hardware and found many were oxidized, loose, or switches that were not properly grounded with pigtails (the house is 25+ years old). The only exception was that I had to use 20A Leviton GFCI outlets in metal boxes that were too narrow and shallow to use Lutrons (even wrapped with electrical tape, the Lutrons were often too wide to safely use without possible shorting on the boxes, and the Levitons provided more clearance). If Leviton ever comes out with shallower GFCI variants like these new ones, without any screws on the sides of the outlets, that would be great – and safer.
The WAGOs have been used in Germany for many years and are certainly far easier to use than wire nuts, especially for things that will likely need replacing in the future, such as smoke detectors and light fixtures. And those all-in-one LED light fixtures that won’t last anywhere as long at the mfrs. claim (just like bulbs that fail one year into their “20-year lifespan.”