Makita has added 2 new right angle drills to their 12V Max CXT cordless power tool lineup.
One model, AD04Z, features a 3/8″ keyless chuck, while the other, AD03Z, has a 3/8″ keyed chuck. Makita says that the keyed chuck provides improved bit gripping power, but it also looks to offer a shorter height, for fitting into even tighter spaces.
Both feature a 0-1100 RPM gearbox, 245 in-lbs max torque, LED worklight, and large squeeze-style trigger.
The keyed chuck right angle drill has a 2-1/2″ long head and weighs 2.6 lbs, while the keyless chuck version has a 3-5/16″ head height and weighs 2.7 lbs. They both measure 12-3/8″ long.
Both drills look extremely compact, with the keyed chuck version being quite possibly as slim as a right angle drill can get.
Don’t worry about the chuck key – there’s a place to store it near the battery.
Price: $123 for the bare tool, $189-193 for the kit
The kits (AD04R1), (AD03R1) come with (2) 2.0Ah batteries, a charger, and a carrying case.
Buy Now(Keyless Right Angle Drill via Amazon)
Buy Now(Keyed Right Angle Drill)
Buy Now(Keyless Right Angle Drill Kit)
Buy Now(Keyed Right Angle Drill Kit)
Makita came out with a 12V Max right angle drill nearly 5 years ago, and these new ones look to be better in every way. The new drills are more powerful, have faster speeds, larger triggers, and Makita managed to shave 3/16″ off the height of the keyless drill’s head.
Right angle drills typically have some compromises. For instance, there doesn’t look to be an adjustable clutch.
(Milwaukee’s M12 right angle drill, reviewed here, does have an adjustable clutch.)
See Also: Best 18V Right Angle Drill
I’d say that Makita has done a good job coming out with right angle drills for users that need to work in spaces too tight for a traditional drill or driver. Unless there are glaring issues with their performance – which doesn’t seem at all likely – these drills will likely be popular with installers and other users who work in corners or small spaces.
I wonder, for those of you interested in a tool like this, how would you feel about the keyed chuck version, and its smaller head size. Would you accept the inconvenience of having to work with a chuck key, for the shorter height and improved bit gripping power?
These won’t be suited for all users or all applications. But they seem like good additions to the new Makita CXT tool lineup.
I’d happily take the keyed chuck in this application. I prefer a corded version of tools like this though. I don’t use such tools frequently and would rather not find myself with obsolete batteries and an otherwise lightly used tool.
The more compact keyed-chuck tool would have been the choice of our installers too. The practicality of this tool is drilling in tight spaces – using stubby or machine-screw length drill bits to help with clearance.
Agree. This goes to what I was saying in the Makita cordless saw thread the other day. Certain tools are nice to have as an option…just because. A drill like this with the keyed chuck is exactly what I was referencing in that thread. Sometimes you want a certain tool that just works when you need it. Myself and other guys at work could have used this dozens of times when disassembling commercial kitchen dishwashers, ranges, and motor control cabinet devises. It would shine in MRO environments and equipment installations in labs and kitchens.
The fact that the key is housed onboard makes a huge difference.
If you need really compact – nothing beats an aircraft-style pneumatic tool – coupled with a stubby threaded mount bit.
A link to one we used in the shop:
Fred, you can’t get much more compact than that! Will a pancake compressor keep up with it or is the volume of the tank too small? I know that happens with die grinders sometimes. The small compressors simply cannot provide enough volume to keep speeds up. Thanks.
I don’t recall (if I ever knew them) the specs on the Nova and Dotco air drills that we had. If I had to guess – I’d say maybe as much as 15cfm @90psi – when running at full throttle. I see that for some air drills they advertise 4CFM – but that may be wishful thinking – or some sort of averaging over a start-stop drilling period. For us the real air hogs seemed to be the pneumatic sanders. We had a big Sullair compressor supplying the air in the shop where we did the sanding – and it had no problem keeping up – but it was a stationary 3 phase machine. In the remodeling business – our pneumatic tools were primarily nail guns and staplers – not real air hogs.
I have two Dotco angle drills of that type, as well as a couple of Sioux straight air drills. All wonderful tools, but I have to say the Dotco’s are spectacular. You can get really stubby drill bits which let you drill holes in amazingly tight spots. For compressors, I have an IR 5 hp 60 gallon single stage compressor in the shop, as well as a P-C pancake compressor. When using the pancake, I can drill two or three holes in sheet aluminum, before having to wait a minute for the compressor to catch up. The pancake will drive the Dotco, but the effectiveness depends on how many holes you are drilling, into what material, and how long you want to wait between holes. Probably fine for a few occasional holes into wood or countertop material. fyi – good used surplus Dotco’s occasionally come up on EB*y (aircraft factory surplus), so if you just want a backup tool, that might be a way to go.
Yep – using stub-length aircraft adapter drill bits – that screw into the chuck – eliminates the added depth requirement of a Jacobs chuck – making for a very slim profile tool. Re Dotco – I always heard from the guys doing the work (versus me sitting mostly in an office) that Apex- Dotco and Cleco made some of the best air tools. I also recall that their cost was commensurate with this reported quality.
you don’t work aircraft without one of those companies names on your drills. I mean I’ve never seen one. Dotco makes some of the tooling for Boeing – which is where they have that ultra compact head and the speed range.
But it costs. However under the floor of a 737 putting in a doubler for a repair and needing to drill skin, and stringer without other stuff in your way – cost vs time makes them seem cheap.
I acquired my first Dotco and Cleco tools when my partners and I bought out a metal fabrication business. We kept on the workers who wanted to stay and they helped inform our future buying decisions.
Prior to that, when I thought air tools – I thought CP and IR – but like many things there is good, better and best.
Wow that thing is indeed compact!
Totally agree, and I don’t understand why any brand thought of a similar design, with the power motor on the bottom, and an extension on the top.
This will be really compact, although a little heavy on the bottom.
These definitely seem compact enough to be really useful working inside cabinets and the like. I’m glad they’re offering a keyed chuck version, as well.
Though it’s not a true right angle, I’ve always been a fan of Milwaukee’s close quarters drill. I just wish they still made the 1/2” chuck model.
I believe that style drill was originally patented by Sioux.
They still make a pneumatic one:
It was. I have the Souix I bought new plus the later still US made Milwaukee (for building my HO train layout benchwork starting long before anyone had a battery powered solution) and I found an original 1940’s Sioux tin sign. (I collect porcelain and tin advertising signs). #TooManyHobbies
Agreed. Our carpentersmat work had one bouncimg aroumd somewhere. I think it may have been ‘liberated’ when we had a merger and reorganisation half dozen years ago. They used it for counter top installation and other close quarters work. There really isn’t anything quite like it out there. Glad to see Milwaukee ismcarrying on with it.
I dunno about these or Makita in general after their ancient 9.6 V dominance but I do know of no one who made better variable torque right angel impact socket driver. Ever.
But it’s extinct now.
We even look for more NiMH batteries for ours.
I know several people who refuse to part with their 9.6v tile saws and one who has the 9.6v mini circular saw, without exception they have no interest in “upgrading”. It seems to be both a comfort and confidence issue.
I really like the look of the keyed chuck one.
Yep. That one is about as close to ‘close’ as you can get. Some may balk at the keyed chuck but if you ever used one of these things you realise quickly the utility of the extra clearance easily trumps the momentary convenience of the keyless chuck.
Where’s the right angle impact driver?
The Milwaukee m12 right angle impact hex is the perfect tool, 2.5 ” lots of power,small hex head makes it so easy to use….2150 rpm…600in lbs….. variable trigger……the top black cover comes off for even tighter spaces…..we carry two per trailer…..don’t see the point of these new Makita tools, less power,less rpm…larger size….. certainly doesn’t replace an m12 ratchet….or the m12 tool I mentioned..
You’ll never see the point of a Makita tool because you hate them all on principle. No one agreed with your comments on the saw announcement. Yet here you are touting M12 again. If nothing else, just be happy that there are options. No consumer is ever hurt by competition and choice.
You’re also comparing an impact to a drill. Impacts have embellished torque ratings compared to drills. They advertise the torque at impact, not the constant torque of a drill. Different tools for different jobs. The M12 right angle drill is 3.75in thick at the head, so bigger than either Makita. It has 100in-lbs of torque, so less than half the Makita. Plus a whopping 800rpm, 300 rippems shy of the Makita.
I guess you should say that there isn’t really a point to the M12 right angle drill.
More idiotic comments. Comparing an impact driver to a drill is just ridiculous. Two completely different tools.
The M12 right angle drill is one of the M12 tools I sold off and I can tell you it is not very powerful at all, as the majority of small right angle drills.
I have a bran new bosch right angle drill. Still waiting to need it. Thought id be boring thru rafters like a mad man. Not yet . Sure looks good sitting there though.
I have a craftsman set I got includes, drill, impact driver, hammer drill, led light and right angle drill for 50 dollar all lith ion batts on craigs list. Used but all work well.
seller said he didn’t want sears china junk any more…. his lost was my gain’ right angle drill very useful in close quarters. that Makita looks good though, i’m no pro just a retired diyer…..
I was a car stereo/alarm installer back in the day, and having a right angle drill made life a lot more easy when installing speakers on rear decks or drilling holes through the firewall. I had both the Makita 7.2 (keyed) & 9.6 (keyless) versions at some point in time, but I prefered the smaller size of the 7.2. Ahhh, those were the days…
The Makita LXT 18volt version isn’t much bigger and it has a surprising amount of torque. It’ll drill 1” holes through joists all day long without hesitation.
Plus – one thing Makita seems to do is that the highly specialized tools are often made in Japan as opposed to China. My angle drill is, and their jigsaws are made in the U.K.
I have their 18volt 1/4” impact driver as well, and it will allow tasks that no other tool can do. Very handy for Hvac work or any other space constraint jobs.
I’ve moved to 90% drilling with an impact vs a drill.
Except for steel , chucking an impact rated drill bit into an right angle impact …gets you close to those dotco dimensions, referenced by Fred.
Obviously when it comes to steel(automotive starter bolts breaking comes to mind) ,impact drilling doesn’t work as well.
So to answer the question,yes to the keyed chuck…when you need it small,get the smallest available.
If you like to use the right angle impact for drilling in tight spots – you might also like to use stubby hex-shank drill bits. Milescraft (possible others too) make some in traditional twist drill pattern and in brad-point and countersink styles as well:
Our company is fence,exterior handrailing,as well as screen rooms.
90% of my work is fence installation.
But being the Sr installer I occasionally do hand rails,and as anyone that has ever set a stair rail knows the lower mount is impossible to screw without a right angle attachment of some sort.
I also have to do all the custom installations which can cause a guy to reach into the creative bag of tools and tricks.
There have been times 2#12 in extensions back to back have worked better then using the right angle adapter.
Thanks for the link. Those look like they’ll pair well with my Bosch Flexi-Click, and I’ve added them to my wish list.
With hex shank bits, the Flexi-Click is competitive with this right angle drill. Head heights, as measured by myself:
With right angle adapter, magnetic bit holder: 2 3/8″ (60 mm)
With right angle adapter, locking bit holder: 3 7/16″ (87 mm)
With right angle adapter, drill chuck: 4 3/16″ (106 mm)
my makita tools are shop floater tools now. Which i’m glad- 5 YEARS makita?! It was 5 years ago you introduced a right angle drill and it’s taken this long to get it in 18v?!
Anyway i would probably take the keyed version
only thing and I point this at other tool makers too namely Dewalt.
NOw that you have this make a 3/8 or 1/4 drive ratchet for your battery system.