I’ve heard about the Micro Jig Grr-Ripper push block numerous times before, usually with loads of praise following.
They reached out to me a while ago, and sent over a box of Grr-Ripper products for me to play around with. I don’t remember what happened but the box ended up in storage for the longest time.
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I was retrieving some equipment for a recent project, and something compelled me to bring the Grr-Ripper box as well. I’m so glad I did, because I had needed a push block but misplaced my much-loved Bench Dog push blocks!
I opened up the box of Micro Jig Grr-Ripper push blocks, grabbed their famous Grr-Ripper, and put it to use. I figured it’d do in a pinch.
What surprised me is how much I really enjoyed using the push block. I had to do a few partial cuts and a bunch of 1/4″ dados (dadoes?), and it’s reassuring to have extra distance from the blade without compromising anything.
I didn’t use the push block over the blade, at least not for through-cuts when the guarding was in place, but it still came in handy when ripping thinner pieces of wood.
The push block spacers are adjustable, as is an L-shaped piece of plastic that I found to aid in stability. I rested the push block pads on the workpiece, adjusted the L-bracket to the table saw top when working with narrower stock, and to the workpiece height when ripping wider stock.
It was grippy, the adjustments came in handy, and I feel it improved the control over my cuts, compared to not using any push block. Its functionality overlaps with that of regular push blocks a little bit, but there are lots of other things this block can do that others cannot.
I have an advanced Grr-Ripper in my box of goodies that I hadn’t tried yet, and also a bunch of accessories. I’m only halfway through my cabinet build, and so I should have plenty of opportunities to try out the rest of what Micro Jig sent over.
The pricing seems a little high, but there’s nothing quite like this on the market.
My test sample is black and yellow, and it looks like the newest version is all yellow, aside from grippy padding and adjustment knobs. I also used a more basic Micro Jig push block for longer pieces, for a 2 push block combo, and will be posing about it separately.
Price: $59
Made in USA
Buy Now(via Amazon)
See Also(More Grr-Ripper Products)
This Micro Jig promo video features what looks to be an older version of the product, but still shows you a lot of the ways the Grr-Ripper push block is designed to be used:
Thank you to Micro Jig for providing the test samples unconditionally!
Jason says
I think I am the only one that doesn’t have one of these yet. I have the bench dog tools push block and it is pretty decent. I’ve had a grripper on my wish list for awhile. It seems like a genius product. Looks like they got everything covered that you would ever ask of it. Eventually I’ll get one so I can join in on all the fuss.
MT_Noob says
Never fear, you are not alone. I am also in the same boat as you. I want one and have it on my wish list, but still have not pulled the trigger. I bet if I ever tried one out, I’d probably pull the trigger, but it is hard to tell the build quality and ease of use from photos and short videos.
@ Stuart – how easy or difficult is it to set it up for specific material size and or cut type? Would you say it is “fiddly” or is it easy to use and intuitive? I know those are pretty subjective, but when I look at the device, it seems like it might be overly-complicated to setup just to make a cut.
Emma says
Very simple. You just loosen a couple knobs and slide the center section of the device to the left or the right depending on where the blade is. Then if you have a narrow board you loosen a couple others on the outside outrigger to drop it to your table giving support. Tighten all the knobs and you are ready to go. Just a few seconds.
Todd says
Something to add to the ease of adjustability is each thumbscrew has an o-ring holding it in place, so you don’t have to worry about thumbscrews rolling about if you take it apart to reconfigure it.
Stuart says
Pretty easy, there are finger knobs.
In the 2nd image, a photo of the block on top of a Dewalt table saw, I have the larger pad moved all the way to the right. I should have spaced it out more, but *shrug* that suited me fine.
And the black plastic angle was adjusted lower than the main push block legs, giving it stability against the table saw, otherwise it would wobble.
There are all kinds of attachments you could buy, and adjustments you could make.
It’s not very fiddly. You adjust it as the need arrives, and then the adjustment stays locked in until you need to change it again.
MT_Noob says
Thanks, it sounds like I need to get off the fence and get one, I like the idea of extra control beyond basic push stick and push pads. Especially if that leads to more safety.
Adam says
Zoro flash sale today. Goes until 2pm CT. 30% off!!
I didn’t know of a better way of quickly getting this up.
Adam says
20% off for the rest of the day @ Zoro .
missed that earlier in my haste to checkout before 2
Travis says
Lowe’s sells them on their website, free shipping can easily be hit. Use a coupon code to knock that price down some if have one.
Lenny says
This is something I’ve seen many times and never thought I needed. After this write up and watching the video I’m seriously considering picking one of these up.
Emma says
These are great. I have two so I can use them for longer cuts. The best thing about them vs. a standard push block is that they hold down the wood on both sides of the cut and allow you to push them both fully past the blade. They are very confidence inspiring.
Nathan says
I’ve been thinking about one of these for a long time but I don’t do enough to justify one – or so I thought.
anywho – I want their angle device too.
Nathan says
addon on – looking at your picture again. why do you have the extension arm of the dewalt fence setup like that? was that just for the picture or did it have a purpose?
I’ve never used mine that way but I did notice it has that pin stop location.
Stuart says
For others: It’s a pre-installed attachment that folds down to 2 positions. The first, as shown, is for use when ripping thin stock, and I found it helpful when cutting a dado 1/2″ from the edge. When the fence is extended beyond the table, it can be set to a lower position to provide bottom support instead of side support.
Nathan,
I felt it gave me greater support and visibility. It’s definitely handy when ripping narrow pieces from thinner stock. If you don’t, the guard hits the fence.
The manual mentioned its intended use – there might be a better explanation than my own.
RKA says
I like their products too. I have two of these for the table saw and two of the other push blocks with the little hooks for the router table. Anything to keep the digits away from spinning carbide!
I could make do with my own inventions, but these are reasonably well thought out and with the accessories, they are pretty adaptable to most situations, which means I’ll use them! That’s what makes them so great.
Kevin says
So just so I understand correctly (I’m new to this…), you run your saw without the usual blade guards and anti-kickback stuff on top? I have a Bosch 4100 I am just learning how to not chop my fingers off with 🙂
MT_Noob says
Assuming your trolling for the age old table saw safety guard argument. There are some situations, like a dado, where you may need to remove the guards. A dado is a groove cut that does not go all the way through the wood and therefore you might not be able to use all guards in that case. But you still want good control over the material, in that case this would be a great way to do that.
Good luck with keeping all your digits. Work safe, read your safety manuals, and trust your gut if it says something just isn’t right.
MT_Noob says
Oops, I meant to say “assuming you are not trolling”….
Kevin says
Hahaha, thanks! At first I was like, “ah man, I wasn’t trying to troll at all!”…just new and don’t want to lose anything important!
In any case, thanks for the feedback! Appreciate the help and clarification!
MT_Noob says
If you are new to table saws the other danger to be on the lookout for is kickback. There is plenty of info on the web for that as well. Whenever I get a new power tool, I like to search youtube and the web for safety videos related to that tool. Just to make sure I cover all the safety angles.
Stuart says
It might sound obvious, but user manuals are also great sources for safety info.
There should always be basic safety info, such as how the rip fence and miter gauge should not both be used at the same time, and how to rip thinner pieces.
Stuart says
I always use the guard, except when making non-thru cuts, such as dadoes, grooves, and other such cuts. For those types of cuts, the guard must be removed.
Ian Random says
Looks good. Only 2 digits numeric digits , not 3 makes it a possibility.
MtnRanch says
Right after he cut off his thumb on a table saw I gave one of these to a friend who had been a professional carpenter all his life. I don’t think he ever used it because “he was a trained professional” and did need such things – despite the obvious evidence to the contrary. Whenever he mentioned it, I just held up all ten fingers.
I now have four of these, two for the table saw in different configurations and two next to the router table and jointer.
Besides the obvious safety benefits, these just give more control over the work which leads to less waste and more precision. These are one of the few “gimmicky” looking devices in the shop that are actually worth every penny.
With two of these at the table saw I keep wondering why I’d need a SawStop – my hands never get near the blade so a SawStop would never detect them anyway. The material is soft enough that an accidental encounter with the blade (there have been several) is not an exciting event.
A BIG improvement would be replaceable stick-on grip pads. I object to the waste involved in throwing away a perfectly good part just because a piece of soft rubber got worn out.
Fran tark says
My local lowes was clearing out their stock of these a couple years ago and they were $19… I bought two and figured if I didn’t like them, I’d sell them on Craigslist.
I still have them and use them all the time. They are very useful and on certain cuts give better results than push sticks and/or human fingers. The ability to hold both pieces as they pass by the blade is unique to this design. There is no “off cut” that sits right next to the blade as you push the other piece through past the blade along the fence.
As another poster said, this one little contraption eliminates the need for a saw stop. Your flesh never gets near the blade.
There is some kind of an ego thing involved in the reluctance of people to use the grrripper… I think a lot of people view them with disdain – like a Harley rider who doesn’t want to wear a helmet. The thing about this “helmet” is, it actually improves the performance of your “motorcycle”…
despite the product’s incredibly dumb name and gimmicky look, it’s very well thought out, very well executed, and built very tough. It’s a super high density plastic. I’ve dropped mine dozens of times on my concrete floor and it’s still perfect.
ca says
I have built-in push blocks. I call them hands.
Stuart says
You can’t buy replacement fingers on Amazon.
ca says
No need, I cleverly don’t run them through rotating blades.
Stuart says
That’s what everyone says until it happens to themm. Accidents happen to experienced users as well as beginners. Maybe even more to experienced users.
Jacob Edmond says
You must not own plyers, or wrenches either, since you have built in bolt and nut turners.
ca says
Actually I just cut them off in the table saw last night…
But, alas, my nut turners never did posses the requisite strength to turn most nuts.
BikerDad says
I have a set, overall I like them. The adjustments are really simple to make. My only gripe is they aren’t as grippy as I would like.
Nathan says
I was thinking they have a set of numbs or hook you can put on the back side as a catch – even if it doesn’t modding that would be easy.
JimM says
Agreed about the loss of grip. They are “grippy” when new but with time the pads become less effective which is why I’d really like inexpensive replacement pads to be available. They are adhesive and could be swapped out once or twice a year if MicroJig would sell them.
I guess they’d rather either sell a whole new part or have their customers suffer along with a deprecated tool. Wouldn’t it be in their best interest to make sure the tool is well maintained and that their customers get peak performance? After all, a lot of this stuff is sold on word of mouth (or keyboard) recommendations.
Stuart says
Did you try cleaning the pads? I wonder if that will help.
Fran tark says
I have found that couple quick swipes over a piece of 220 sandpaper laying on the table saw top brings them back to new. The rubber does dry out a bit over the years.
My buddy hits his with low tack adhesive spray… It works but it has to be cleaned off after a while.
Michael says
Thanks for the mini review and discussion. I have been considering one for awhile now.
ktash says
These have helped me quite a bit on the jointer, too. Makes it possible to process a lot of large heavy pieces of wood without my hands getting stressed and very tired. I have a little arthritis and don’t want to make it worse. The hook on the back combined with the gripping makes a lot of difference. For some woods they help with the planer, too.