Milwaukee has expanded their hand tool lineup with two new pry bar sizes – 36″ and 42″.
The new Milwaukee pry bars feature an I-beam design for greater prying strength, an all-metal core, and hammer-ready strike cap.
The tips have checkered grip zones to help prevent slipping.
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The handles have a tri-lobe shape, with user comfort and control.
The shaft has a chrome finish for easy cleaning and corrosion resistance.
These and the other pry bar sizes are backed by Milwaukee’s lifetime guarantee.
Here’s the full lineup with MSRP pricing as of the time of this posting.
- 8″ (45-74-9208) – $14.99
- 12″ (45-74-9212) - $19.99
- 18″ (45-74-9218) – $29.99
- 24″ (45-74-9224) – $39.99
- 36″ (45-74-9236) – $89.99
- 42″ (45-74-9242) – $99.99
ETA for the new sizes: June 2023.
If you need the smaller sizes, the 4pc set seems reasonably priced at $74.97.
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If ordering from Acme Tools, coupon code TOOLGUYD takes $10 off $79 (one use per customer, resets after 30 days).
Discussion
There’s not much to say here, as this is a rather straightforward hand tool expansion. I see these as a “if you’re in the market for new pry bars or sizes” type of tool, rather than “toss your existing still-functioning tools aside for an instant upgrade”.
I’ve used Milwaukee’s pry bars before, and they’re well-made. I would add that I prefer Milwaukee’s handle style to other brands’.
The lifetime guarantee is noteworthy.
Jared
I like the checkering. Simple idea, but it seems like it could help and none of my pry bars have that.
MM
The idea is interesting but the proof will be in their durability. The grooves cut to make those serrations are stress concentrations, it may very well end up in promoting broken tips.
Koko The Talking Ape
Right. I wonder if that’s why the grooves seem pretty shallow, just scored into the surface. For this purpose, I wonder if it would’ve been better to sinter, if that’s the right word, some hard metal to the tip to create a rough, sandpapery texture.
MM
I like smooth, narrow pry bars. The number of times I want them as thin as possible to fit into a tight spot far exceeds the number of times I have problems with them slipping. Also, smooth tips won’t mar parts as badly. If friction is needed then I stick a piece of emery cloth “shop roll” or a piece of an old sanding belt between the pry bar and the work, when you apply force the abrasive bites quite well.
Jared
I’d like to try it, but those are good reasons to have smooth pry bars too.
Koko The Talking Ape
Aha! Your idea is better than mine. 🙂
MM
@Koko
I wouldn’t go so far as to say one idea is better, it really depends on the application. I’m sure there are people who use pry bars differently who would really appreciate a durable rough texture on the bar more often than not. And sintering some bits of of carbide on there would certainly do the job.
Collin
They should adhere diamond particles to the tip.
Angle grinder discs have diamond adhered to the metal disc and these metal/diamond discs last for thousands of cuts despite intense friction, heat, pressure, etc.
No reason it wouldn’t work on a simple pry bar which doesn’t spin at 10,000 rpm.
KMR
The knurled tip is a great idea.
Lance
Lol at the picture – I’ve never considered using a pry bar to remove the front fender of a car!
Jim Felt
Perhaps you haven’t been exposed to “freelance” chop shops. ;-)~
Jack D
I’m guessing if it’s a bumper cover being replaced entirely why not just tear it off of wth the pry bar…
BrownBuilt
I have to suggest spending your money on the Mayhew USA brand of pry bars. Straight, curved and many lengths to choose from and I believe competitively priced. I have had great luck with all my Mayhew Dominator products!
fred
The prices seem competitive. I have a set of Mayhew ones. The 14123 – 44 inch long one is made from 7/8 inch stock. The 14119 (48 inch) and 14120 (58 inch) are both made from 3/4 stock. They are all USA made – and cost me around $90 each ( as part of a set) when I bought them in early 2022.
https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-14123-Dominator-Curved-Screwdriver/dp/B07N2GHDZM?th=1
Chris
The “I-Beam” part is interesting but confusing.
I thought an I-Beam got it’s strength from pressure being applied on the horizontal plane/faces with the vertical/ “I” portion allowing it to withstand pressure that would normally bend or snap steel.
This design seems to put the “I” portion on the horizontal plane (relative to the prying head) and doesn’t seem like it would have any benefit.
Jared
The graphic makes it look like the sides protrude, but in the photo it looks more like cutouts – e.g. I think it has hollow slits on the sides, so it would be applying force to the vertical I.
However, the horizonal “-” on the top and bottom of the I-beam shape are way thicker, so the middle I still ends up looking like the weak spot.
The pry bars look adequately thick regardless, but I’m also not convinced the “I-beam” design is adding much besides visual interest.
Koko The Talking Ape
@Chris: Yes, an I-beam should have the center section (the “web”) aligned with the applied force. In buildings, that force is typically gravity acting on a load to make the beam sag, so the I-beam is mounted upright, so the web is vertical.
But at least as I see it, the pictures show the I-beam aligned that way, with the top and bottom sections (the “flanges”) parallel to the prying tip.
@Jared: “…the middle I still ends up looking like the weak spot.” Maybe not. The function of the web is just to separate the top and bottom flanges, which are in tension or compression when prying (and not twisting.) The flange experiences some bending force, but mostly it experiences shear, which roughly stated is the difference between the compression and tension forces in the flanges.
And it’s good that the top and bottom flanges see only tension and compression, because materials are generally stronger in tension and compression than in bending, which is what a beam with a solid rectangular cross-section would experience.
So if you were to construct an I-beam, you could use solid strips of steel plate for the top and bottom flanges, say 2″ wide, but the web could be short sections of steel plate lined up like a train, say 2″ x 2″. That row of sections wouldn’t withstand any bending forces (it would just fall apart) but it can withstand compression, and keep the two flanges apart. So the beam will work.
And an I-beam will be stronger and stiffer than a beam with a square or rectangular cross-section using the same amount of material. It will mean more strength for the same material.
Incidentally, that’s the same principle behind torsion boxes. The webs or spacers inside the box don’t have to withstand much bending force. All they have to do is separate the top and bottom skins, which experience just (mostly) tension and compression. I built a torsion box for a worktable with two 1/4″ skins separated by 1×2 MDF trim (because it was completely uniform), which has almost no bending strength. The 2’x4′ tabletop can easily support 500 lbs, maybe more, and it weighs maybe 10 lbs.
xrh07
not very price competitive vs Wilde. Who’s definitely going to have the better quality steel on top of selling an even longer 45″ for $50-$60.
knurling is all the Milwaukees have going for them. Pass.
Nathan
it’s interesting but where are they made and who else puts groves on the tip. I think I’ve seen it before but it’s been years and years. most don’t – and I would say the biggest reason is potential to jam or damange parts.
LIke in that knuckle situation – it might score or abrade the knuckle -if oyu were planning to reuse that and just get the ball joint out you might have to now replace a knuckle.
The striker tip I see others doing this too I have some that have it and some that dont. the though handle bar is important and expected on a quality bar but the hammer end – meh. it’s not a chisel nor a pickle fork. Then again if I was to whack mine I would use a dead blow. Eitherway I’ll take that. I don’t so much like their “I ” beam design it’s not an I beam. and I find I twist my pry bars probably as much as I straight pry on them. I think all of mine are some form of square with maybe flutes on the fancy one.
As someone else said I’d have to double check the pricing but. I’d go Mayhew and Tekton first. If i recall Tekton bars are usa made too now they’ve added a bit to their usa made list.
Otherwise I would look and see if those proto bars still exist and I might give an autoparts store brand a look if they have a through handle.
All that said I like to see competition and options so I’m glad they are in the market. And again I assume here since it’s not stated that they are not USA made.
Nathan
OH one other thing. I might like the chrome plating. None of mine are and I haven’t used one that was but I could like that idea. I do rarely use one and when I do I wipe them – all of mine are black oxide that I know if.
Mark M.
Looks like typical Milwaukee quality and innovation, which is to say- good. For anyone needing/wanting a USA-made budget option, Walmart has HyperTough brand bars made by Wilde which for me at least have been tough as nails and I was able to get a whole set for maybe $60.
Nathan
I looked up. Tekton is made in USA and their 3 piece of common sizes is 48.
And despite the argument the Milwaukee thing is not an I beam. And if using a real I beam for this. It would take any torsion well. I beams are very specific directional loading. Not what you need for a general purpose pry bar
Chip
I have beat and abused 20 yr old,and bought used back then…the Snap-on 4 pc set.
I’ve done the same with my larger 42/58 Mayhew’s.
I learned about us steel when installing fencing.
A potato/digging bar is 6ft long ,1 inch round in the shank,has a 3 inch mushroomed head,and comes to a sharp chisel end.
I’ve bent several chinese brands,but never a USA built.
Soft steel bends but doesn’t chip off into your eyes,domestic is much stronger but will send tiny shards when struck with a hammer.
Nathan
One thing I’ve noticed changining over time is that alot of companies that make items with a striking end use a different tool steel grade. or specifically use a different steel for the striker plate or plug than is used for the working end.
would not surprise me if milwaukee did similar
JR Ramos
I’m struggling to think of an instance where the checkered surface would be any advantage although I can think of several potential disadvantages. Chrome plating is an added expense that I can see just getting chewed up and damaged in very short order on a tool like a pry bar (and would rule it out of some applications where chrome flakes are bad news). Maybe used more for light wood construction and warehouse use it’s a great idea. Hopefully the i-beam engineering is solid on these. Someone did that back in the early 90s and they were terrible failures (for the life of me I can’t recall the company/brand but I’m fairly certain they were imported). Not sure what appreciable improvements there were to be made over high quality square stock steel with proper tempering and a good phosphate finish.
Patrick McIntosh
I love the GearWrench indexing pry bars. They just work.
beau
CBM Tools has a 4pc set at a good deal with the 8″, 12″, 18″, & 24″ with a storage tray: https://cbmtools.com/products/234428189663
Stuart
Home Depot has it for $77, and as mentioned Acme has it for $75 and eligible for $10 off $79 coupon. Add $5 to your Acme order, and it comes out to just under $77 shipped.
The retailer you linked to seems strange. For instance, their website’s social media links go to Shopify, and a look at the address on Google Maps shows a sign for a different tool supply company. I can’t find any reviews or even online mentions for the company you linked to. I’d sooner order from known reputable stores.