Milwaukee Tool announced a new M12 cordless planer, model 2524, describing it as “the most powerful 12V planer on the market.”
The new Milwaukee M12 cordless planer is built specifically for professional finish carpenters and remodelers working on finished and unfinished pieces.
It has the power to plane and scribe in soft and hardwoords.
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Features include a 2″ wide shoe, up to 14,500 RPM, compact size, 2 cutting blades, and 21 depth settings ranging from 0 to 5/64″.
It also has a lockable kickstand, dual-sided shavings port, shavings collection attachment, and universal hose adapter for dust collection.
The planer’s 2″ wide shoe is said to be optimized for common applications, such as trimming doors.
The M12 model is smaller and lighter than the M18, making it a more attractive choice for overhead planing tasks.
It weighs 3.5 lbs (tool-only), compared to 6.1 lbs for the M18 model, which is a considerable difference.
It’s interesting to note that the M12 planer has the same maximum cutting depth (5/64″) as the M18 model, but smaller cutting width. The M12 has a 2.2″ max planing width, compared to 3-1/4″ for the M18.
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Key Features & Specs
- Brushless motor
- 2x carbide blade cutter head (4 blades included)
- 14,500 RPM
- 2″ shoe (2.2″ max planing width)
- 21 cutting depth settings
- 5/64″ max cutting depth
- On-tool blade storage
- Shavings port adapter
- Universal hose adapter
- On-tool battery fuel gauge
- Measures 11.1″ L x 3.9″ W x 4.9″ H
- Weighs 3.5 lbs
Price: $199
ETA: March 2023
What do you think about the new M12 planer? Is this one for your shopping list?
Chris
Under you’re second picture you say “features a 2″ wide show”.
Is that shoe?
Stuart
Yes! Sorry – thank you, *fixed!*
Jared
That looks super handy. It would be nice to have a small-sized option.
MM
Yeah, it’s a nice compact size but it looks like it has plenty of capacity for common jobs like doors and trim. It could even take a little off 2x lumber if you needed to do that.
I doubt I’ll be picking one up, I use a plane rarely and I already have a Dewalt 20V cordless which suits my needs fine. But if I were using a tool like this often and I could get by with the 2″ width? Heck yes, it’s much lighter.
JoeH
Isn’t it discouraged to plan end-grain since it’s dangerous, can cause catastrophic damage to the workpiece, and can cause damage to the planer itself?
The first image seems to suggest otherwise.
JoeH
*Plane end grain….oops
MM
I know that planing end grain can cause splintering at the end of the cut. However, I’ve always dealt with that by clamping or screwing a block of sacrificial scrap to the workpiece during planing and then removing it afterward, the same way you might put a scrap of wood on the backside of a hole you were drilling to avoid splintering when the bit breaks through. Or for smaller pieces, you can use a “shooting board” in which case the stop on the board acts as that support, though I haven’t seen that done with a power plane before.
I don’t see how it could damage the planer in this instance. It does take more force to plane end-grain, so perhaps where people might get into trouble is trying to use a light-duty stationary planer (the feed-thru kind, not a hand plane) on a butcher block or something like that? Maybe then the machine just isn’t rigid enough for that kind of cut? But with no power feeder and nothing to physically clamp the cutterhead against the work I just don’t see a hand plane being harmed by this, and I don’t think there’s much risk to your work so long as you’re cautious about splintering on the end of the cut.
fred
Sacrificial pieces at the start and end of the planing run is a good way to avoid any propensity for snipe or tearout. End-grain and some highly figured woods are sometimes better sanded than planed. With a hand plane you might buy a high angle frog (HAF) – sometimes called York Pitch – and back bevel your plane iron to match the task. Using a larger bevel-up plane (sort of a block plane on steroids) is another alternative for planing end grain or figured wood.
BTW – I’ve owned the Bosch equivalent (12V – 56mm wide cut) for almost 5 years now. I find it handy for the light-duty work that I’ve put it to. I’ve never tried planing butcher block with it – but it works great on trimming small doors and panels. Debris collection on the Bosch could be better. I bought it and Bosch’s diminutive 12V router at the same time. They were both made in Hungary.
Mopar4wd
For end grain I have always used a bevel up or low angle plane, actually my favorite type of plane. I always taught that at boatbuilding school in my 20s. Also found low angle and bevel up to be the only types you can use with success on plywood.
MM
Not to derail the topic, but if anyone wants to see any fantastic carpentry & wooden boat construction, ranging from working with massive timbers to finish cabinetry, check out Sampson Boat Co’s restoration of Tally Ho on Youtube. There are a lot of interesting tools to spot along the way as well, and plenty of end-grain planing!
fred
The trick with using a high angle (55 or 60 degrees or higher) is to hone a back bevel on the iron and use a plane with enough heft to carry you through on the push stroke. A LN 4.5 works better for me than even a bronze #4. A hefty low angle BU plane is indeed a good alternative for curly maple. Of course – for final smoothing – I might change to a card scraper.
Some say that the name “block plane” traces its origins back to its use on butcher blocks. But whatever its origins – a Stanley 60-1/2 low angle block plane was my early choice for end grain.
When we brought on or promoted a new lead carpenter in our remodeling business – we had a tradition of presenting a choice of a Lie-Nielsen block plane as a welcome gift (to encourage leadership and craftsmanship). The LN 60-1/2 was the choice in at least one instance that I recall.
For plywood – if I need to rough out – I’ll use a Surform style tool. For cabinets – where a plywood side might have an edge standing a bit proud – my Cantex lipping plane seems to get it down so that even the fingernail test can’t feel it. Hopefully. Lamello keeps making replacement cutter blades for the Cantex.
Dennis
So is the Bosch 12v max the only competition or does another manufacturer make a 12v planer too?
Dave
I already have the Bosch and it’s a must have tool for any trim carpenter. This looks to be almost a carbon copy, so I’m sure it will perform similarly.
Dodegy Jack
I agree and it what sold the Bosch to me in the first place was the 17mm rebate capability , which the Milwaukee does not seem to have ?
Ajax
Bosch 12v version of this is excellent
Ct451
I’ve seen incarnations based on the bosh one. Here’s one (german site):
https://www.lidl.de/p/parkside-akkuhobel-pha-12-b2-ohne-akku-und-ladegeraet/p100324717
Liang
Stay away from the Bosch clone it just lacks power and inferior to the original in every way, you will regret buying it even if it’s half the price of the Bosch!
Mike McFalls
I love the Bosch 12v. I used it last week on an old oak door and for my nephew’s pinewood derby car build.
Milwaukee appears to upped the Bosch in two areas.
1. the depth adjustment scale looks to be better
2. the dual blades, albeit there is no sniping with the Bosch
While lacking the size of a 3-1/4″, which is heavier and harder to balance on door edges and the edge (of up to 2x materials), the Bosch powers right through soft and hardwoods.
Dave
It does look considerably larger than the Bosch, that is my main concern with the M12 as the Bosch fits in my pouches and is basically on me at all times like a block plane. This looks too big for that.
Steve
I have the M18 version and use it occasionally for doors and such and this version seems like it would be a much better solution for me. I’ll pick one up and sell my M18 as the M18 is nice, but it is heavy and it appears the M12 will do everything I need it to. A little pricy for what it is, but you can say that about nearly all of Milwaukee’s tools. Thanks!
fred
For full-sized doors and larger planing jobs, I still revert to one of my corded Rockwell-Porter-Cable planes. My #126 (2.5 inch wide spiral cutter) is still my go-to tool – but I also have a 3 inch (#653) R-P-C Versaplane .
For landscaping projects I’d love to see someone make a cordless power plane larger than the current crop of 3.25 inchers. But asking a battery-powered tool to do what my corded Makita 1806B (6 inch) planer can do – is probably asking too much.
I also own a Lamello Cantex (sadly no longer made) lipping planer. I would think that that’s also a tool that one of the higher end folks (Mafell, Festool or even Metabo) might consider for their cordless lineup.
Jeremiah D
Ive got the ryobi 18v. Only used it a few times so far but happy, especially for the price(got it new for $60 I think)Ive been interested in the bosch 12v and very interested in this.
Matt Rentz
I’ve watched people use corded planners to trim horse hooves. I trim my four mini horses with traditional knives and nippers, but I think doing it with a light weight cordless planer would be the cats meow.
Kirk
I only see the left side in pics except the vacuum hose port, so its not flush one side? That would be a definite must have if it was able to plane flush one side or within 1/8″ of a wall like the Triton TPL180B https://www.toolnut.com/triton-tpl180b-1500-watt-180mm-triple-blade-handheld-planer.html the blade extends through the shoe to edge of tool, then remove or shorten vac port
Big Richard
That is a great point, check out this video at around 0:34, gives a better idea of how flush the right side its – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZSGJXy1s1k
Mark M.
A planer is one of those when you need it, you need it tools. If I was a trim carpenter or on a frame punch crew, or facing a big DIY remodel project I would snap this up in a heartbeat.
Charles
I would buy it when I needed it. I love Milwaukee. But I’ve had the bosch power planer for 20 years, and when I need it it’s enough.
It’s pretty rare to find oneself in that situation.
For doors a festool track saw and a proper plane are far better. A power planer is a framers tool to my mind. Sometimes you just need to adjust joists the hard way
kent_skinner
I can see this being popular with the finish carpenters and door hangers.
Julian Tracy
After trying out Bosch’s 12v jigsaw and finding it near useless for anything of substance (I bought it primarily to use for coping and it barely had the power to do that lightweight task, on pine trim molding no less!), I’ve given up ever buying any other of their specialty, like the planer that looked like a great tool, but now that I’m firmly in the M12 lineup of tools, I’ll be buying this in short order.
The fact that it allows the dust port to be on either side is the single largest feature that’s needed on a powered planer – hopefully they’ve developed a slick little wire framed dust “bag” like Bosch has with their powered 3” planers – a square-ish self supporting fabric deal…. I use that Bosch bag with my tracksaw if I’m not using it hooked up to a vac. Even outside, it keeps the work piece so much cleaner.
Powered planers generally do a good Job with passive chip collection.
Chris
Is this not a “fuel” model? I see that it’s brushless but usually fuel tools have “fuel” plastered all over them.
Stuart
I noticed that as well. I asked Milwaukee and am waiting for clarification.
Andrew D.
Chances are they don’t anticipate enough use/heavy use to warrant the brushless motor.
Big Richard
It is a brushless motor though, it’s just not “Fuel” branded.
Josh
This would be handy but what I REALLY want is a 12v mini belt sander like the old porter cable armadillo sander. I do use my Makita cordless planer for cabinet and base scribes but for that final 1/32 a belt sander is a little less likely to bite too deep and wreck your day LOL
Julian Tracy
I still use my little PC belt sander. Great little machine. Was thinking the other day of making a mini stand to hold it on edge at the job site work table
Dominic S
Ah yes, Satan’s tool, now available in 12V and 18V
Andrew D.
Ah, it’s fine. You didn’t need all those fingers anyway.
Andrew D.
I hope they are built a little better than the M18. The cutting head on mine is about 1/16″ out of true. Not particularly a problem shaving doors and narrow stock, but one time, I was trying to use it as, well… a plane! I wanted to hog material off of a table top I was making, as I didn’t have a working thickness planer and I wanted to save some time on sanding. I made a pass across the grain to set a baseline for all of the cuts with the grain. Got through three passes that way, only to discover I had three DEEP grooves along the right-hand side of the cuts. Had to break out the Stanley to fix it.
eddie sky
I’d like to see these with Carbide replacement blades, like Shelix/Helical cutters. No brainer for flushing out of spec studwalls or trimming down jambs. Or when a handplane is too little but job can’t fit in a planer.
fred
I think that’s why I like my old Porter Cable 126. Its cutter is one-piece of steel with spiral cutter edges. They sold a replacement carbide one – but a sharp steel cutter actually produces a finer cut.
James A Russell
My M18 planer has non adjustable back plate connected to non adjustable drum head. Because that’s not even, you get snipe at end of every board. I fixed it by buying an adjustable Makita!
Any issues with that problem on this M12??