One month later, our Milwaukee NPS15 new tool coverage is almost finished. There are just a few more posts left, and I believe this will be the last M18 Fuel brushless tool post. The LED lighting post is still in the works, so I can’t promise that this will the last cordless tool coverage. There’s also a new 6-ton version of their ForceLogic knockout punch tool, which is also a discussion for another time.
These next couple of months will see lots of new M18 Fuel tools. I already posted about the 2nd-generation Milwaukee Fuel drill and hammer drill, the 2nd-generation impact driver and wrenches, the new higher capacity M18 XC battery packs (6Ah and 9Ah), and the new braking angle grinder.
This is going to be a short post, focusing on tool categories I have limited experience in, and so there’s not much in the way of opinions I can offer, at least not yet. I plan to post more about these tools once official specs and details are available, but don’t expect me to review ’em!
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New M18 Fuel Tools
- 2787 1-1/2″ Magnetic Drill
- 2788 1-1/2″ Lineman Magnetic Drill
- 2711 Super Hawg with 7/16″ Quick Chuck
- 2709 Super Hawg with 1/2″ Drill Chuck
- SDS Max Rotary Hammer
Milwaukee M18 Fuel Magnetic Drill
I briefly teased about the new Milwaukee mag drill, and had the opportunity to check it out at the event. This was my first-ever use of a magnetic drill, and I can’t tell you when my next use will be.
There are 3 things to highlight about the new M18 Fuel magnetic drill.
First, it’s tool-free. No wrenches, hex keys, or specialty tools are required to change cutter bits or anything else.
Second, Milwaukee emphasized the strength of the magnet, saying it can provide a good hold even in 1/4″ thick steel. They compared it to other magnetic drills which required thicker steel to provide a safe and secure magnetic hold.
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Third, it’s said to be faster than corded counterparts. Battery life is said to be up to (40) 13/16″ holes per charger.
There will be 2 models – a standard model, and a Lineman model. I can’t tell what the difference is between the two, but know that the Lineman kit comes with an additional AC/DC vehicle charger.
M18 Fuel Super Hole Hawg
I already posted about the M18 Fuel brushless Hole Hawg, which you can see here – it’s the smaller of the two.
The smaller Hole Hawg is designed for electrician’s needs, the Super Hole Hawg is designed to plumbers’ needs and the larger holes they often need to drill.
It makes sense now why there are two different tools. If you’re drilling a smaller hole, you don’t need the size and power of the Super Hawg.
I drilled a couple of smaller holes, maybe 2-1/2″ or so, no problem. A small cutter is easy, and I imagined a large hole saw would be too. Give me the big bit, I asked. This 4-something-inch cutter… it bested me. Looking at the photo, my angle was way off. Oops.
I got all the way to the bottom of the hole, and saw daylight, but couldn’t quite push it all the way through. Maybe there was a knot, maybe the height and angle of the board was awkward, or maybe I just need to get back to the gym.
This was also my first time using a drill of this size, and I was surprised that it was recommended I reverse my grip to be able to brace the tool against my left hip. Looking at this entry angle, yes, the drill kicked back, and I was no longer surprised as to why I was told to hold the drill this way.
Using the Super Hawg will probably be a lot easier to use on a floor or vertical board, than a slightly downwards-inclined board at waist-height.
There will be 2 versions, one with a 7/16″ quick release chuck, and another with a 1/2″ drill chuck.
After using this tool a couple of times, I think I’m more comfortable with one of Milwaukee or Dewalt’s new heavy duty impact wrenches.
For those of you that regularly drill large sized holes, would you rather use this new cordless Super Hawg, or an impact wrench?
M18 Fuel SDS Max Rotary Hammer
There’s a new SDS Max rotary hammer, and if you can’t tell from the photo, this is one of the tools Milwaukee designed their 9Ah Li-ion battery pack for. You don’t have to use it with a 9Ah battery pack, but it seems to be optimized for the big pack size and power reserve.
If I recall correctly, this might have been touted as the world’s first cordless SDS Max rotary hammer. If not, then definitely the world’s first 18V-class SDS Max rotary hammer
Milwaukee’s entire range of M18 rotary hammers were on display, including this Fuel brushless model that I believe is also new, or at least recent.
I hadn’t tested either, but others who had tested the SDS Max rotary hammer seemed to be impressed. Or maybe they were faking it. I’ve used hammer drills and SDS rotary hammers before, but can’t say that I’ve ever needed to drill large enough holes in masonry where I would have needed the power of a SDS Max hammer.
fred
So maybe we have a worthy successor to the corded Super Hole Hawg for drilling big pipe-clearance holes.
Now all we need is the smarts not to drill them so as to weaken structural members (e.g. beams and joists). While selfeed bits range up to 4-5/8 inch diameter – if you use the rule of thumb that the hole should be no larger than 1/3 of the dimension of the beam , then the 4-5/8 selfeed should not be used on anything smaller than a 14 inch piece of engineered lumber (3 x 4.625 = 13.695 — rounded up to 14). Naturally the center of the span is the worst place to drill big hole. Another rule of thumb is that the edge of the drilled hole should be no closer than 2 inches from the top or bottom of the beam. When we were called on to bring a big waste pipe into a space (say for a new washroom) – and it had to be put through floor joists – we’d have an engineering design prepared – which sometimes required sistering – use of glue lams – or even steel reinforcement. Sometimes after evaluating the plan and its costs – the client might rethink the whole idea.
Stud walls have different rules – depending on code jurisdictions – but generally it is not permissible to drill out anything larger than 2-1/8 – and at that size, usually in not more than 2 successive studs – even if doubled up.
Ross
Well put, but I have one correction. The center of the span is actually one of the better locations to drill a hole. 2308.4.2.4 of the 2015 International Building Code specifies that notches should not be located in the middle third of the span, but this does not apply to holes.
For a single span beam, the center of a beam has the highest bending stress but low shear stress. Alternatively the ends of the beam have the highest shear stress, but low bending stress. Looking at a cross section of a beam/joist, shear stress is largely resisted by the center of the depth, whereas bending stress is mainly resisted by the top and bottom edges.
Therefore, a hole in the center of the span won’t have very much structural effect.
fred
Thanks for the correction.
I guess I was thinking about notches/cutouts when I was thinking about mid-span.
I was also taught that arched notches were much preferred to making a square cut with right angle corners. Early in my career – doing this with a hand saw and/or chisel – often translated into more straight – but angled lines. Doing it now with a reciprocating saw – its much easier to follow an arc.
Chris Fyfe
I have the M18 Hole Hog . It’s pretty punchy . My old Skool corded Hole Hawg is pretty much in retirement , tho it might get the not for mixing duties , the low range on those old blisters was very torky . I have had a few bruises to prove it .
I wouldn’t mind one of the super hogs . Tho a bit spendy , I would’nt mind a Cordless Mag Drill , both for lock work , and as a portable drill press ( just weld a piece of 1/4″plate onto my old Greenlee gang box ) .
Chris
James
Don’t tease a new knockout tool without details!!! Very interested in hearing about that as well!
Stuart
=)
I’ll try to get the post prepped soon, but here is some info for the meantime:
6-ton.
Smaller, lighter.
Quicker stud attachment and release!
The existing 10 ton punch tool won’t necessarily be updated with the quick release stud, as it needs full thread engagement to withstand forces involved.
pete
Ooooo what did milwakee buy you out?! oooo look at all these innovative new tools, and all these updated tools with class leading power and run times and the biggest battery. There’s no way you or your readers could be interested in all of that, Milwaukee is probably paying you millions of dollars for posts on your website that is dedicated to awesome and cool new tools and news. Because that doesn’t make any sense.
lol
Dwain (OZ Tool Talk)
you speak without knowledge pete.
Stuart
I thought he was being satirical, because of a discussion in another recent Milwaukee post.
Dwain (OZ Tool Talk)
ahh cool.
Sean
Yes, post more on the uninteresting stuff, please. You could do a post on a 1998 model 3/8″ VSR drill, or one of those $99 mid-sized reciprocating saws, or a shop-vac that hangs on the wall!
Stuart, you asked in the post whether one would prefer to use hole saws with a right-angle drill or an impact wrench. I’m wondering how well an impact wrench would work with a hole saw because that is not something I’ve ever heard about. I know people drill the occasional hole with their impact drill, but it’s far from ideal. I’m just trying to imagine how a big hole saw would react on a 1/2″ impact wrench or how you would even set that up. I know there are 7/16″ quick-change impact wrenches, but on a model with a 1/2″ drive, you’d need a crazy set up of adapters to make it work. I’ve never seen a 1/2″ square to 7/16″ hex adapter (but that doesn’t mean they don’t exist.) You could run a 1/2″ to 1/4″ hex, connect a drill chuck with a 1/4″ hex shank on the end, chuck your hole saw into that, and probably end up with something 10 inches long that would make you think twice before you began drilling.
I have recently been interested in an SDS-Plus drill chuck and using my SDS drill for other applications. Bosch and a couple other people make (or used to make) hole saw arbors with SDS-Plus shanks. Turn the hammering off, and you probably have a decent drill. SDS drills have cornered as a one trick pony (well, two with the chisel action) but they probably make a great regular drill. I wonder how they compare to a right-angle drill like the Hole Hawg. Maybe they lack the double- or triple-reduction gearing that makes Hole Hawgs so powerful.
Jeff
How can you compare a Hole Hawg to an impact wrench? Did I miss something? I have never heard of drilling holes with an impact wrench.
Stuart
Some users have turned to impact wrenches (such as with 7/16″ chucks) to drill large and long holes, such as with auger drill bits. Impact tools are non-reactive so they won’t twist your wrists if or when they bind.
David
Uhhhhhh. No. You have no clue. Impact driver is a fail for drilling large holes. Does not work. Try again…
Stuart
Who said anything about impact drivers? Many brands have come out with auger bits specifically designed for use in impact wrenches.
If you think that’s wrong, take it up with the manufacturers and everyone who uses a 7/16″ impact for drilling purposes.
McLane
Do we know what difference between the lineman and regular mag drill models is yet?
Lee
When will you bring out a 9 inch grinder