Milwaukee has come out with a new M18 Fuel metal-cutting circular saw that they’re saying is the industry’s fastest. The new brushless metal-cutting saw, model 2782, is designed for cutting EMT conduit and other small-diameter metallic materials.
In my experience, metal-cutting circular saws are great for cutting things like Unistrut and other metallic channels, medium diameter thin-walled tubing, angle iron, extrusions, threaded rod, and other such materials.
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Aside: cordless band saw vs. metal-cutting circular saw? I suppose a metal-cutting circular saw like this one is a better choice when straight cuts are desired.
Milwaukee says that the M18 Fuel metal-cutting circular saw cuts faster than its cordless predecessor, as well as other leading cordless metal-cutting circular saws from competitors.
As has been the trend for some of Milwaukee’s other Fuel brushless tools, the new metal-cutting circular saw borrows components from the corded version their high performance corded circular saws. In this case, that means it gets the same lightweight housing and gearing system.
Milwaukee drives the point home in their press materials, saying that no wearable components (thanks to the brushless motor) and superior durability means less servicing needs and thus lower cost of ownership.
Features & Specs
- 5-3/8″ to 5-7/8″ blade size
- 20mm arbor hole
- 3,900 RPM
- 2-1/4″ cut capacity (with 5-7/8″ blade)
- Weighs 6.5 lbs
- Hanging hook
Milwaukee says that its cut capacity – 370 cuts in EMT per fully charged 5.0Ah battery pack, is 40% more than other metal-cutting circular saws today.
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There’s a hanging hook, which going by this image means you can temporarily hang it off of Unistrut or other structures.
Buying Options
2782-22 Kit: Saw, (2) 5.0Ah M18 XC battery packs, multi-voltage charger, 30T blade, contractor bag
2782-20 Bare Tool
Price: $200 for the bare tool, $400 for the kit
ETA: April 2017
Ohio Power Tool is the first to list the new metal-cutting saw.
Buy Now(Kit via Ohio Power Tool)
Buy Now(Bare Tool via Ohio Power Tool)
First Thoughts
Seems like a strong option for anyone looking to pickup a metal-cutting circular saw.
Part of me wonders why Milwaukee had not come out with this saw sooner. If it shares some durability features found in their corded saws, why the long wait?
As mentioned, this is not the first Milwaukee cordless tool to feature corded-like durability. Their M18 Fuel brushless deep cut band saw is said to share over 90% of the same parts found in their corded version.
Milwaukee’s a strong name when it comes to saws, and I expect this one to rise in popularity once it’s available. The price point stings a little, though, but if it truly does last longer, in regard to both runtime and longevity, it’ll be worth it.
Update: It doesn’t look like Milwaukee makes a comparable corded saw, but they do have a brushed motor cordless version. I believe that Milwaukee’s smallest corded metal-cutting circular saw is an 8″ model. Another look at the press materials cleared something up for me.
The lightweight housing and gearing system was shared from their corded circular saws. They didn’t necessarily say metal-cutting circular saws.
Looking at the details, such as the main handle shape, aux handle position, and other aspects related to ergonomics and control, this saw looks to have been designed from the ground up. Yes, it looks like the brushed motor model, in the same way that many circular saws look alike, and many metal-cutting circular saws look alike. They didn’t just take their existing cordless model and swap out the motor and electronics.
z2w
Would this make more cuts on a single charge than a cordless grinder with a cutting wheel?
Stuart
Possibly? Hard to say. Maybe not, since bigger motor and larger saw blade.
There are benefits of going with a metal-cutting circular saw over a grinder.
For one, greater cutting capacity.
Abrasive cut-off wheels can shatter. It’s much rarer to break the teeth off a toothed saw blade.
Abrasive cut-off wheels create lots of sparks. The metal-cutting circular saw should run cooler and produce fewer sparks.
You can use this for a wider range of materials.
Pete
Im sure this would cut faster. And since there’s no sparks you wouldnt need “fire watch”
A W
Unrelated buying advice: I’m looking to buy a jigsaw, mostly for woodworking, but I could see using it for occasional metal work in the future. My first project will be cutting out a map of a coastal state in 1″ pine. I am trying to decide between three very different saws: the Bosch js470eb, which seems to be a fantastic corded barrel saw, the M18 jigsaw, which has very good performance, probably more vibration, but it would be cheaper since I already have the M18 batteries, and a cheap Black and Decker.
Most of my current saws are corded (miter saw, table saw, circular saw, OMT), and I have the M18 hackzall.
I like the idea of the barrel grip and the low vibration of the Bosch, I like not having to worry about a cord with the M18, and I’m leery of going cheap because that rarely saves money in the long run.
Thoughts?
Stuart
I’m a fan of corded jig saws, Bosch in particular.
I’m sure the M18 is a fine tool. That you have M18 batteries makes this a tougher decision since batteries and a charger are not factored into the equation.
I’d still go corded – you have more options, and choice between barrel grip and D-handle.
The yeti
I have the newish bosch cordless jigsaw . It came with both wood and metal blades . I’ve only used it a few times . Very strong little tool. Like most bosch stuff u can feel quality instantly when u pick it up
A W
Thanks Stuart. I went with the Bosch barrel grip and am really happy with it.
Cr8ondt
Cutting with this type of saw is EXTREMELY loud! Used an old 18v NiCad DeWalt one on steel studs, worked great but bystanders up to 100ft away need hearing protection!
Marty
Agreed! I use a bandsaw for cutting conduit and strut.
RKA
20mm arbor? Any guesses where they borrowed this saw from?
Stuart
I’ll check to see if it comes with 5/8″ bushings.
Update:
*Facepalm*
There’s no way to get a saw blade with a pinky-sized hole onto a saw arbor the size of a thumb.
fred
Bushings are not too expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-BL71MGW9-Blade-Arbor-Bushing/dp/B00004RK8L
and Oshlun (probably others too) sell 20mm arbor 5-3/8 inch blades.
a 20mm arbor is what Festool uses on the TS55 track saw
fred
Whoops! What was I thinking – a bushing will only work to let you put a 5/8 inch – bores saw blade on a 20mm arbor – not the other way around. You would have to rebore a 5/8 inch hole up to 20mm.
Stuart
I got confused too, thinking you were right the first time around and wrong the second.
But then I visualized – a saw blade with a pinky-sized arbor hole, and a saw with a thumb-sized arbor. Nothing’s going to make that work.
fred
I think I said it wrong again – a 20mm hole can fit over a 5/8 inch arbor – and be centered with a bushing. A 5/8 inch hole can never fit over a 20mm bushing. Sorry about my dyslexia – or senior moments.
Stuart
Nope, just works with 20mm arbor blades.
I checked for saw blades, and in my initial search I only found blades with 5/8″ arbors.
But Bosch’s saw also has a 20mm arbor. https://toolguyd.com/bosch-cordless-metal-cutting-saw/
My second searched turned up blades from Milwaukee, MK Morse, and Irwin, so they are out there.
RKA
Yeah, I was thinking they took an existing euro saw and modified it to work on their battery platform. At least then I could find reviews on the other saw to get a better sense.
Their nailers were junk and now I’d rather wait on any new cordless tool they offer to see how they hold up.
Stuart
I consider Milwaukee to be a strong name in portable saws and metal-cutting circular saws. There are some new tools I would consider with some hesitation, but not this.
I’ll need to get my hands on one to be sure, but I’d consider it to be at least competitive to other cordless saws currently available. More cuts per charge isn’t important to me, at least not as much as performance, speed stability, and ergonomics.
fred
We had a couple of Makita BCS550Z – 5-3/8 inch blade with a 5/8 inch arbor. I recall that at first the saw got used a bit – then not so much as it was replaced by a cordless bandsaw for most of our work – and was not up to the task for jobs where our Evolution/Morse 9 inch saw was used. I believe that the Makita XSC01Z is their new saw replacing the older BCS550Z.
fred
I see a third party vendor is selling the Makita for just under $133 with shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XSC01Z-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cutting/dp/B00K194N76
ca
The claim “no wearable components” seems dubious at best.
fred
I guess that compared to an abrasive wheel cutter – which visibly wears as you use it – the claim makes a modicum of sense. A some point the blade’s teeth may reach a point where they no longer cut effectively.
Stuart
I took it to be a reference to the brushless motor not having brushes that wear and need replacing over time.
Paul
If I could only have one, a metal cutting circular or a portable band, how would I choose? Especially if I’m not cutting sheet, only ferrous and non-ferrous bar, rounds, and tubing no larger than 4-5″, what might be the basis for choosing? Thanks for any insights!
BTW, great site!!
Stuart
4 to 5 inches? That’s at the limit of deep cutting band saws, and we’ll beyond what this saw can do.
Does it need to be portable? Portable band saw. (Based on the cut capacity you mentioned.)
Does not need to be portable or cordless? Cold cutting chop saw, maybe a 14″ model.
Have more space? Maybe a horizontal band saw. But that would be overkill. A horizontal band saw would probably be most suitable for cutting thick walled materials or solid bar stock.
Paul
Thanks Stuart! Yes, I realize that the larger tubing will be out of the circular’s range. But other than that use on large tubing, comparing apples to apples, I’m thinking portable and cordless for both. Based on the follow-ups below, sounds like most are recommending band saw, unless sheet or plate needs to be cut. I see the picture that Milwaukee shows cutting EMT, but I think that cut would be easier with a band saw. That said, I’ve never used a portable metal cutting circular saw before.
fred
Now if you really had room – needed to miter or cut big pipe (say up to 12 inch) and had 3 phase power in your shop – I’d recommend the Do-All saw and Marvel saws that we had in the pipe/metal fabrication shop.
What we found was that with a nice Morse blade – in a purpose-designed metal cutting circular saw – we could cut thin plate or corrugated decking on the jobsite. And – we could do it overhead (like roof decking) without scattering hot debris all over the place. We mostly used corded saws – had one Evolution 9 inch (EVOSAW230) and one of its Morse (CSM9NXTB) cousin. Milwaukee also makes an 8 inch corded metal cutting saw 6370-20.
John
You may not be aware but Milwaukee has had a cordless M18 metal cutting saw for quite a number of years the 2682-20. So it isn’t based on their corded one this is basically a brushless version of that exact saw:
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2682-20
I know because I’ve been waiting for a long while to pull the trigger and now that there is a Fuel version it looks like the right time to do so. I’ve also seen this saw used for cutting sheet metal and metal roofing in addition to angle iron and rod you mentioned.
KL
This. I’m not sure why everyone thinks this is new. The only think new is Fuel (brushless motor). I have the V28 version but it uses 6 7/8″ blades. It’s great but all carbide tipped metal cutting blades are spendy. A bandsaw is the choice for something like unistrut. If you need to rip plate get the circular saw. Bandsaws will have exponentially longer blade life, exponentially less expensive blades, and are exponentially more quiet.
Nate818
I have the old one and use it often. Almost always on 26 gage riser duct.
Does anybody know why they’re left handed? Opposed to your everyday circular saw for wood cutting that has the motor on the other side.
I sure wish they changed that.
KL
The M28/V28 puts the blade on the left side of the tool:
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/0740-20
Nate818
Do you use m28?
KL
Extensively, yes. Bomber tools.
Corey
I’m curious who would actually choose this over a band saw for anything but sheet metal?
fred
Exactly what our experience had been. The older Makita models that we had – probably came bundled in some kit deal – and they were available before a cordless bandsaw hit the market. Once we had the cordless bandsaw – it became our tool of choice for unistrut. We also did a batch of jobs cutting corrugated roof decking – but this sort of little saw was not up to the task – s we continued to use one of our corded 9 inch metal cutting circular saws.
A bit off topic – but for unistrut, I came across this interesting socket wrench:
https://www.amazon.com/19mm-Strut-Channel-Socket-Drive/dp/B016MWLXT6
Reddogminer
To cut light steel au to medium thing,
Fred Manke XXIII
I’ve used the m18 brushed version of this saw for a year now, it’s louder than just about everything else on the jobsite but it really chews through metal, cuts through sch40 1-1/4 scary fast. I’ve used it to drop cut holes in 1/4 plate, and you can set the depth to skim a 16th out of something for neat bends in 1/8th inch. It’s also my go to for nail embedded wood. It does tend to hang up in thinner stuff though, which is where you might expect it to excel.
The blades do last a crazy long time if you don’t abuse them, pinching seems to be the carbide cruncher.
It’s a right side saw to spare your forearms some of the wicked hot chips that it tends to spray.
If the brushed version is sick the fuel version is gonna rule.
Brad
How well do you think it would cut wood … if it had the right blade