Milwaukee Tool owners have been waiting years for a cordless track saw, and the brand finally delivered one this year at Pipeline 2022. Meet the new M18 Fuel 6-1/2″ plunge track saw (2831-20/2831-21). We got our hands on this track saw for a few hours and asked as many questions as we could.
First off, here are the specifications:
- 6-1/2″ blade with 20mm arbor
- 2-1/4″ cutting capacity
- 2,500 to 5,600 RPM
- Variable speed dial
- -1 to 48° bevel angle
- Splinter guard and riving knife
- Weighs 9.8 lbs without battery
- Up to 90% dust collection efficiency
- 5 year warranty
There’s an adjustable speed dial at the rear of the saw below the battery port.
Advertisement
The depth stop has inch markings and a dual indicator. When facing the scale, the left indicator reference (I) is for when you are using the saw without the track and the shorter indicator reference on the right (II) is for when the saw is on the track. There is a fine adjust knob to dial in the exact cutting depth on the right side of the scale near the 0 line.
The track saw also has a feature that lets you make a scoring pass before your final pass, to ensure a crisp clean cut, but I did not get a photo of the mechanism.
The little knob on the front of the saw, below the angle scale, changes the operation of the angle adjustment. When it is pointing at the 22.5° mark, the bevel scale will have a detent at 22.5°. When the knob is turned 180°, the saw will bevel past the 45° stop to 48°, and also let you go past the 0° stop to -1°.
Finally, the front rail tensioner is the knob in the lower right of the above photo. Along with the rear tensioner (show in a photo below) these knobs adjust the amount of play between the saw and the track. Too loose and the saw might rotate on the track, making a sloppy cut, too tight and it will be hard to push the saw along the track.
The Milwaukee guide rails come in lengths of 31″ ,55″, and 106″, and are compatible with several other brands’ guide rails, most notably Festool and Makita. This means that you should be able to use the M18 Fuel track saw with guide rails you might already own.
Shown above, you can see how the Makita and Milwaukee guide rails look very similar, with the main difference being the Milwaukee rails having squarer edges.
Advertisement
Milwaukee placed the bevel locking tab at the rear of the base. The bevel lock keeps the saw on the guide rail when you are making a bevel cut. You might need this because, as you tilt the saw toward 45°, the weight of the saw won’t be over the center of the track and it will want to pull sideways off the track.
Having the bevel lock in the back is an interesting placement because it means that the saw has to be on the track completely as you start the cut, whereas Makita’s track saw has the lock towards the front.
The rear rail tensioner is behind the bevel lock.
Here is a better view of the bevel locking tab and the rail tensioners.
Milwaukee has a plunge lock on the side of the saw that locks the arbor into the center of the cutout window. This makes it easy to change blades without trying to align the arbor to the window by hand, or having to remove the blade guard plate.
The riving knife seen behind the blade is spring-loaded. It will ride on the surface of the material until it springs down into the cut, to keep cut material from pinching the back of the blade.
The arbor wrench stores conveniently in the handle as show above, and the arbor lock is where you’d expect it to be on a circular saw — the lever in the bottom of the above photo.
I removed the arbor screw and the blade, and it was a really easy operation. I may or may have not been scolded for trying it on their demo saw.
Pushing down the clear window helps with dust collection, and it rides on the surface of the workpiece material to keep pressure on both sides of the cut. This helps to prevent splinters on both cut edges.
The blade guard has a series of vertical marks that align with the front and back of the blade at various depths. To the best of my memory, the outside marks are the full width of the blade, and going inward the markings correspond to the front and back of the blade at 1″, 3/4″, and 1/2″ depth.
When making stopped cuts, you just line up the correct mark rear mark with the end of the cut, plunge the blade and cut forward until the correct front mark lines up with the end of the cut.
The swiveling dust collection port is compatible with the nozzle on Milwaukee Tool’s new vacuums with 1-7/8″ hoses, or can be used with the included dust collection bag.
Milwaukee created a custom foam insert for their Packout XL tool box to hold the track saw, battery, charger and dust bag. The tool box also features a full-length folding top handle, which is not available on Packout XL tool boxes purchased separately.
You can purchase the track saw as a bare tool (2831-20) or in a kit (2831-21) that includes:
- M18 Fuel Track Saw
- Dust Bag
- M18 XC 6.0 Battery
- Rapid Charger
- Packout XL Toolbox
Price: $399 tool-only, $549 for the kit
ETA: October 2022 January 2023 (updated on 10/24/22)
Accessories
Milwaukee Tool is also announcing several accessories for the track saw. Of course, what is a track saw without guide rails? There are 3 different lengths – 31″, 55″, and 106″.
In addition, they have clamps to lock down the guide rails if the non-slip rubber isn’t enough to hold it in place, connectors to join two or more guide rails together, a guide rail bag, and replacement non-slip and anti-splinter strips. The last items are important because after long term use the strips can become damaged and can sometimes be hard to find.
Available accessories:
- 31” Guide Rail (48-08-0570)
- 55” Guide Rail (48-08-0571)
- 106” Guide Rail (48-08-0572)
- Guide Rail Bag for the 31” and 55” Rails (48-08-0576)
- Guide Rail Clamps (48-08-0573)
- Guide Rail Connector (48-08-0574)
- Anti-Splinter Strip (48-08-0575)
- Non-Slip Strip (48-08-0577)
New Milwaukee Track Saw Blades
Along with the new track saw and accessories, Milwaukee also developed a new line of 6-1/2″ track saw blades. The blades have cobalt-infused tungsten carbide teeth that maintain sharpness and extend the life. Laser cut reliefs in the blade reduces warping as the blade gets hot. And the blades have an anti-friction coating to resist corrosion and reduce build-up
Each of the 5 new track saw blades were designed for a different task:
- 24T General Purpose Track Saw Blade (48-40-0624)
- 40T Finish Track Saw Blade (48-40-0625)
- 48T Fine Finish Track Saw Blade (48-40-0627)
- 4T Fiber Cement Track Saw Blade (48-40-0670)
- 52T Laminate Track Saw Blade (48-40-0643)
Price Range: $34.99-89.99
ETA: October 2022 January 2023 (updated on 10/24/22)
Discussion
Several people have noticed that the Packout XL tool box that comes with the track saw kit has a long folding top handle. We have learned that this version of the Packout XL tool box will only be available with the track saw kit.
Milwaukee says that the saw “delivers the power to rip solid hardwoods, cutting 1/4″ plywood to 2” thick oak or walnut without bogging down,” and we certainly saw demonstrations of the saw ripping approximately 6/4 hardwood using a 6Ah high output battery. I tested the saw on some 3/4″ plywood and wasn’t really surprised — it performed just like other track saws I’ve used.
Milwaukee also says their track saw will achieve more cuts per charge and [offers] greater durability than other track saws, but this remains to be seen.
There aren’t any show-stopping features, but the addition of a track saw to Milwaukee’s M18 lineup will make many on the Milwaukee battery platform happy.
GregS
Super review! I feel like I could start using the tool already. Makes me want one but unfortunately I don’t need one.
Robert
Pleased to see price is reasonable. The design looks better thought out than the Dewalt track saw. Which seems its main rival in terms of the big 2 brand loyalty.
H
Festool all day long for me. Never Dewalt
MoogleMan3
Even though I just got the new (to the US at least) TS 55 FEQ, this saw has me thinking long and hard about getting a second tracksaw lol
I’m already in the M18 system and have plenty of HO 6.0 batteries but the bundle with the packout, battery and charger is a pretty nice deal.
Gonna be watching reviews on this one closely. If it ends up as a buy more save more item at the depot during that sale I’m all but guaranteed to end up with one.
Stuart
I have come to strongly prefer 1-battery track saws over 2-battery saws that require extra attention to battery selection, charge status, and recharging. The Festool can be used with 1 battery, but not to its full performance.
I bought the Makita XGT track saw, thinking its single 40V Max battery would be much better than their 18V X2 model, but it feels very underpowered when cutting thick hardwood, such as 1-1/2″ oak. Even with a fresh blade, the Makita bogs down on me, stalls, and then can’t finish the cut in a single pass.
The Milwaukee M18 made a very compelling case at the media event. My only qualms is about how its Packout tool box is better suited for jobsite transportation than compact workshop storage.
Adam
Cutting 1 1/2 oak in one pass is a lot for a track saw, I have a Mafell MT55 corded track saw saw, and I would cut 1 1/2 oak in two passes.
Stuart
I know, which is why I haven’t complained too loudly in a post yet.
I’m excited that the Milwaukee M18 can do it in one pass, and with what looked like a very clean finish cut quality.
I went many years with 1-1/8″ to 1-1/4″ being the thickness hardwood I’d have cut regularly, but now I often need to cut thicker and longer hardwood boards.
Saws like the Festool TS75 are better suited for cutting thicker materials – I knew this even when I bought my TS55.
But cordless brands don’t have multiple sizes, and it’d be great to have a do-it-all saw that doesn’t bog down or stall.
Julian
No chance the Festool TS55 is cutting 1 1/2″ oak either – no one has ever accused that saw of being a powerhouse.
i’ve had 2-3 of them and sold off my last one to just use my cordless Makita. The two battery thing is a non-issue I’d say, as two fresh batteries will cut for days on end for my uses, mainly sheet goods.
fred
Not track saws per se – but Makita now has some larger-blade cordless saws that have bases that will run on their tracks. I wonder how powerful their GSH04Z (10.25 inch) saw is. Nominally it should be able to handle up to 16/4 hardwood at 90 degrees – but I’m just guessing that a slab of 16/4 dense hardwood might bog it down in a long crosscut – and do worse yet trying to rip.
I generally don’t try to rip 5/4 or thicker hardwood except on my table saw. If its 12/4 or 16/4 I’ll switch to my bandsaw – then clean it up on the jointer.
Jimmie
Agreed. Bandsaw then jointer for wood thicker than 8×4. Safer that way.
fred
We had an Oliver Straight Line Rip saw in the shop. Its 12-inch blade could handle larger stock and its automatic feed made it much safer than ripping at the tablesaw. While I have a big home shop space – it’s not so big to accommodate every piece of machinery – so my choice is between the Unisaw and bandsaw.
MoogleMan3
My TS55 is corded, which is fine for the way I use it (this one is my “on-site” saw), but needing two batteries turned me off of most of the cordless versions out there. That’s one of the things that has me most interested in the m18 saw. If their claims turn out to be true in regards to power and runtime vs competitors, milwaukee definitely has a winner on their hands.
David
They’re not selling that packout box? My friend went to great lengths to add a top handle to his xl.
Stuart
Not at this time. I don’t know what their plans are, but Milwaukee confirmed you can only get that Packout tool box with this kit. Maybe that will change at some point.
TomD
I suspect that part of the problem is that the XL is rated for “too much weight” to have a top handle normally, but the kit they can argue “won’t weigh more than X” – and the manual will say something about not using the box with the top handle with anything but the saw kit.
However, at only $150 more than the bare saw, I daresay those XLs will appear in various locations, the kit price seems a good deal.
A W
This is exciting!
I’m glad they took their time to do it really well.
Luke
Can someone explain the appeal of a track saw vs a circular saw + a clamped guide? I just can’t wrap my head around how a dedicated tracksaw setup is preferred to the versatility of a circular saw. Not trying to discount it, just looking to learn.
fred
Perhaps I can explain one of the appeals with an example:
When I got frustrated carrying 4×8 sheets of veneered plywood down to my Unisaw -I started breaking them down with 4-1/2-inch PorterCable worm gear saw and a straight edge. But it was always a need to mark the cut line – then measure where the straightedge needed to be for the offset of the blade versus the baseplate. I got annoyed with this – so I fabricated a 2-part straight edge with the top piece (maple) being what the baseplate was guided along while the bottom piece (masonite) was registered along the cut line. I would then clamp this down. Worked OK – but still a bit cumbersome and I never attempted making one over 8ft. long.
When I bought my first track saw (TS55) – that changed to just laying the edge of the track on the cut line, mounting the saw on the track and cutting away. Fewer steps and the anti-splinter edge also reduced tearout. While used less often – the plunge action of the track saw has also helped with some mid-panel cuts. The extruded tracks are also less cumbersome to use than my shop-fabricated straight edges.
TomD
Youtube has some videos with various people explaining: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=why+use+a+track+saw
But think of it as an upside-down table-saw in a lot of cases.
Adam
I bought a Mafell track saw, it’s very good , I used to clamp a straight edge and use my makita circular saw or make a guide from plywood I did that for years, on doors I used to have to score the door with a knife, before cutting, with a track saw it’s so much quicker, you just put the track down on the material line the edge of the track with your pencil marks and and cut your sheet material or doors or anything else, my Mafell has a scoring function I just flip a switch and the blade will only score the material , then second pass I cut right though.
Luke
That sounds great. A lot less hassle than manually adjusting the depth of a circular saw. Sounds like the M18 one has a similar feature.
fred
I kind of miss the separate scoring blade/motor that on the sliding table saw that we had in our cabinet shop. It did a great job on the bottom face – so you had both faces that were virtually splinter free.
I have an old sliding table (Delta add on) on my old Unisaw – but no separate scoring blade and Delta’s sliding design leaves much to be desired.
Bill
Benjamin, thank you for the in-depth review of all the features and adjustments on Milwaukee’s new track saw. I’m now in the market for a cordless track saw and I think Milwaukee has risen to the top of my list. I really wanted to like the Dewalt 60v Max track saw, and while it does have many early positive reviews, Rob Robillard of Concord Carpenter/ Tool Box Buzz performed a comprehensive head to head review where Dewalt did not do well. In his review Dewalt ranked either 4th or 5th in every category but price, where it was ranked 1st.
Rob’s review is about a year old now, but it does seem that many of the issues of ergonomics and adjustments that hampered Dewalt’s performance have been nicely addressed in Milwaukee’s version. At one point in his YouTube review, Rob even refers to the Dewalt as a “train wreck”. However, the one big caveat I would add to his review is that in his website, Toolboxbuzz.com , Rob did a “Look Back” of his original Dewalt track saw review (done prior to his YouTube head 2 head review). In the Look Back he said that he and his crew loved and used the Dewalt so much that they bought a second one!
If you have any thoughts on a comparison of these two saws I would love to hear them.
alex
The DeWalt saw is far from being terrible. It’s just less refined than the other ones (switching the blade is a pain in the …) It has a ton of power though and can take a beating. I think it was more designed for rough carpentry than finish work so it depends what you want to do with your saw.
Bill
Your assessment of the Dewalt unit is probably correct and I’m still partial to the 60v Max platform. I like the calculus of higher voltage tools, particularly in high demand applications like a track saw. The problem I’m having with the Dewalt track saw is no one has any in stock, so I can’t even go see one much less purchase one. This problem seems to have been an issue for a while now and I don’t know if the Milwaukee will be in any better a situation when it’s released later this year, as it will likely be a hot item with many waiting buyers.
Hopefully Ben has some thoughtful insights.
fred
Ben:
Have you had a chance to try out the Milwaukee track connectors?
The ones for the Festool tracks were one of my pet peeves. They were finicky to set up and keep the tracks perfectly aligned. I could manage to do it on my assembly bench – but not out on a lawn. I ended up buying one of the aftermarket connectors (Betterley)
Benjamen
I have only seen the Milwaukee Connectors in a video, I did not see them at Pipeline. I don’t know about the Festool connectors, but I purchased the Makita one (singular) because I thought it was actually two. It is pretty cumbersome to use. I ended up 3D printing another “aligner” to keep the tracks from wobbling at the joint because I didn’t want to pay another $30 for the crappy one Makita sells.
If I had to purchase another connector for any guide rail, I would buy these: https://tsoproducts.com/accessories/grc-12-self-aligning-guide-rail-connectors/
Interesting, I didn’t know Betterley made that. They are literally down the road from my house, Before they moved to their new store, I got a tour of their shop when they had a Festool event. They definitely make some nice high-end jigs.
fred
Before the “stone age” – when laminate countertops were still in vogue – we use many Betterly routers for cabinet making. Back then they were all based on Porter Cable router motors.
The Betterley track saw connector may have been the first to the after-market (bought mine in 2015) :
https://www.burnstools.com/slc23-straightline-connector-tracksaws
Nathan
looks well thought out and I guess it should be for being the last comer to the tool. I mean even Grizzly and Kreg make one.
I agree the dewalt leaves a bit to be desired in some spots but people swear they work well. I don’t own one but I’ve thought about it alot.
Still say, Red, Yellow and Blue should all make a track sled attachment for their circ saws. would be nice.
Curious about that speed dial – does anyone else have that but Bosch? I don’t recall seeing one on any other. Do they have listed expected speeds to use with each blade? I figured most would just want to run wide open.
Bill
Nathan, I know that Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita, Festool and Bosch all have variable speed dials. Bosch actually has a button rather than a dial and an LED display that changes each time you push the button.
Jimmie
So what’s your take on the location of the bevel lock? Suppose you’re cutting 48″ plywood at a 45-degree angle. Is the 55″ guide rail long enough that you can have the entire saw on the rail before the cut or will you need to plunge to start?
Benjamen
I was thinking about it and I wonder if it’s just a matter of positioning the track further back to make that cut. Then the saw might run off the front of the track a few inches.
After thinking further though, the problem is that whether you start off the track or end off the track, you are only going to be using one of the two track tensioners. If there is enough play between the track and saw one of the ends might not be as precise. So does it make a difference where the bevel lock is if you need to be 100% on the track for the whole cut?
Doug N
Thanks for mentioning the scoring cut feature. I haven’t seen that mentioned in other reviews, but it is extremely useful when cutting melamine and veneered plywood.
I’m happy with my Makita x2 saw but may upgrade at some point.
Benjamen
I have asked Milwaukee to clarify that feature for us. When I talked to Tyson, he showed it to me, but I did not get a photo of the mechanism or of the saw in scoring position.
Benjamen
I should really read my email before replying. Here is Milwaukee’s answer:
3) How is the scoring cut actuated? – There is a black sliding “switch” between the handle and the blade guard. When moved into the forward position, it keeps the tool from plunging beyond the predetermined depth for a scoring cut.
I think you can just see the switch in the very bottom of photo where I talk about the arbor wrench and lock.
Ken
I still don’t get the appeal of a *cordless* track saw. I purchased a corded track saw about 5 years ago and it has been awesome for my home/hobbyist use. I recently decided to upgrade and considered cordless models. But one of the huge advantages of a track saw is dust collection that actually works, and this means that a cordless track saw is still “corded” to a vacuum. If I was a pro and needed to work without 120v outlets, then obviously a cordless track saw would be useful. But since I work out of my home, batteries are a disadvantage since they cost additional money and need to be charged. Can someone clue me in to why so many people seem to want a cordless track saw? Or is it more that people just want a Milwaukee track saw?
fred
The cord is not a deal-breaker by any means – but can sometimes snag on the track when moving the saw along the cut. The same might be said for the vacuum hose. But if you don’t wish to use either and don’t mind spewing sawdust over a lawn or driveway. then cordless would seem less encumbered. It’s just a matter of degrees.
Festool sells what they call a “deflector” for the cord and hose:
https://www.acmetools.com/deflector-guide-rails-489022/4014549081259.html
I can’t say that I have found it needed – but I don’t use my TS55 everyday.
MM
I do little carpentry work currently so I don’t have a use for a track saw. If that suddenly changed and I needed to buy one I would look hard at the cordless models simply because of power. For the past few years the top end cordless Circ saws from most major manufacturers are more powerful than a corded saw. I do not have any experience with cordless track saws, but I’d guess the same thing may be true for them as well.
The cordless feature would be nice for two other reasons. First is those times when you’re working outdoors and don’t need dust collection. Second is that I would be able to skip my age old routine with corded tools: first thing I used to do when I unpacked most new corded power tools was to take them apart and replace the factory cord with 25′ of SO cord and a really heavy duty plug on the end, the purpose of which was to eliminate the need for extension cords for most jobs, and to keep the plug away from the work if an extension cord is needed. There’s few things as annoying as ripping a long board and then having the plug get caught on the edge. A cordless tool already avoids those problems, and IME vac hose is a lot less likely to get caught on something.
Also, speaking generally, if one is already invested in a cordless platform new tools on that platform can be attractive because combo kits often have excellent value for money when you consider that you can use the batteries in the kit with your other tools that you already own. So buying that new tracksaw kit on your existing cordless platform isn’t just a track saw, it’s also more runtime for your other tools.
I’m not saying I’d necessarily buy a cordless one after I was done doing my homework but I’d certainly look there first as there are some compelling advantages.
Ken
Interesting points, MM. I agree that if one is not using dust collection, then cordless makes much more sense. But like I said, dust collection is one of the amazing features of a track saw, so I don’t know why you wouldn’t, even when working outside. Dust collection saves the lungs, and in many cases I imagine even outdoor jobsites would benefit from less sawdust mess (e.g., customer driveway). Additionally, sawdust in the face is simply unpleasant.
If you are always using dust collection (like I do, even when outside), then the cord length also becomes a moot point if you are using a proper dust collector instead of a shop vac. I plug my track saw into my dust collector, and then the vac automatically turns on when I press the saw trigger. So the 13′ of cord on the saw is more than enough to reach the nearby vacuum. Between the 13′ of cord on the saw and the 15′ of cord on the vac, I have never needed to use an extension.
The “more power” issue is the one that initially made me assume I would upgrade to a cordless model. But in reality I rarely cut anything other than 3/4″ sheet goods. If I was cutting thick hardwood then maybe this would be an issue, but from what I’ve read my old 12A model or new 13A model have no problems in this area.
I originally assumed I would “upgrade” to a cordless model, but it quickly became apparent to me that there was absolutely no advantage to doing so, and a number of notable disadvantages (at least for my use case). I bought another corded model and have my old system for sale right now.
MM
The reason I wouldn’t use dust collection when working outdoors is simple: I don’t have a good solution for it.
In my workshop I have a proper dust collector with a cyclonic seperator so if I’m working in there I certainly will use dust collection. But otherwise? I don’t really have a good solution for it, and I don’t do that kind of work often enough to justify buying it. I do have a standard “shop vac” but I’d generally rather wear a mask than drag it out.
chip hershberger
I install cabinets on mainly new construction .The temp power is usually 100ft + from cutting area.
Every tool I own is cordless ,from m18 tablesaw,Ridgid shop vacuum running on Makita batteries, packout vacuum for small cleanups,Makita miter and tracksaw.
To run 2 or 3 100ft cords to run several tools is a waste of time.
chip hershberger
Regarding the M18,and a current user of the Makita .
Does the arbor sleeve flip to accept standard circular 6 1/2 blade ?
I cut lots of nails,and using a $6 blade VS $40 “track saw” blade can get expensive .
So little talk about the tracks,and actual use of mixing and matching brands to tracks.
Specs mean very little these days.
If the m18 fits on my 3 Makita tracks,I may consider buying the saw only.
Milwaukee waited 6 years after Makita,which was way to long for myself and 1000’s of other folks.
It went from needing ,to spending roughly $2k in teal tools and batteries and no recent purchases of red.
fred
Most of the 6-1/2-inch track saws that I know of – have a 20mm arbor. That compares to the 5/8-inch arbor on most to the regular 6-1/2-inch saws.
Dewalt seems to make a construction-type blade in 6-1/2-inch – 20mm arbor size:
https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DT10300-QZ-Portable-Circular-Blade/dp/B00D1D0XKK
But it is not priced like the $6 burner blade you might be seeking.
The last time I was in the UK – I spied some “Saxton Brand” 160mm blades – presumably for a Festool TS55 . I think that they were selling for under £10. Looking on eBay there is a listing for one at $10.82 – but shipping is listed as $21.50 from the UK
eBay also lists a CMT 165mm-20mm arbor blade for $16.97
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154425961169
MFC
That’s the issue I have with track-saws. The regular 6.5″ Blades have a 5/8″ arbor (15.88mm) compared to track-saw blades having a 20 mm arbor. I had to find a manual and search through it to confirm they were 20mm because different sites said the flexvolt tracksaw blade was a 5/8, and others said it was 20mm… Even vendors are confused about a very important part of the items they sell.
Blythe
This was one of my first questions too. As a remodeling contractor I have to cut into many unknown materials. If the arbor plate is removable, I hope someone machines aftermarket 5/8 arbor plates
MFC
And I forgot to mention that the manual reminded me that it’s not just the arbor you have to worry about, but also the kerf since the riving knife is a certain thickness. Some blades with 20mm arbors will say to not use them with riving knives (on a track-saw) because they are too thin (or possibly too thick) to work well.
fred
I suppose that if you really need to you might find the spare part# of the riving knife, buy a spare or 2 and then grind it down to fit a thin kerf blade. But that seems like a lot of trouble (and possible risk) for a speculative benefit. Kickback from a sawblade tooth geometry that is not meant for tracksaw use could be another issue.
fred
I am assuming that track saws with riving knives have some +- tolerance on recommended saw blade kerf. I notice, however that Makita’s recommended blades for their XGT track saw (no riving knife – but supposed anti-kickback sensing) do vary quite a bit. The stock blade (B-57342) is said to produce a kerf of 0.057. Other recommended blades like the A-99960 has a 0.079 kerf
Paul
Am glad Milwaukee finally introduced a cordless track saw. Two things that I thought we might see in it though is some type of auto-start with a cordless vacuum and anti-kickback electronics. At least it has a riving knife. Or will Milwaukee introduce these features in the future sometime?
David A
It looks like a great track saw, I would like to get one eventually. It would be a nice touch if the Milwaukee tracks had a cutout in the middle that allowed them to slot over the top handle of the pack out box- or if the packout box had some clips or something to secure the tracks. That way you could carry the saw and track(s) in one hand. It seems to me Milwaukee missed out on an easy-to-implement quality of life feature for contractors/carpenters that are always carrying gear to and from job sites.
fred
Maybe you could adapt / glue on something like the brackets made by Fastcap:
https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-02896-Track-Systems-Mounting/dp/B085FPHJTH/
Kent_Skinner
I waited for this for so long, and last year broke down and bought a Makita corded track saw (no 3rd battery style, please).
I wonder how much I can sell the Makita for?
Oleg K
I don’t see the point with this thing, I mean, if it were cheaper and less complex of a tool then yeah but, Milwaukee, just like my comment, is a bit too late to the party. They won’t be able to capitalize on those who have corded track saws nor will they attract any of those who have track saws made by other brands or those who fit used to using conversion kits… And since Milwaukee doesn’t offer any breakthrough features or is priced below it’s competition, I don’t know why they even bothered. This saw should have been released back when they released their table saw, it was a huge omission on their part.
Guilherme Pieruccini
Sounds like you’re cutting metal…
Stuart
UPDATE (for anyone subscribed to comments): ETA is now January 2023.
D.
Hopefully Milwaukee will be pushing the envelope on power and battery performance. If so, this will raise the bar and others will have to catch up.
A few other quick comments for those considering their first TRACKSaw from someone who has used corded TS55 Festool TRACKSaws for 15+ years. I use it almost exclusively for sheet goods and have not needed to buy the larger TS75 for thick hardwood cuts (yet). With some practice and TRACKSaw guides you can make extremely precise repeat cuts for cabinets and built-ins – arguably as well as with a very expensive and very large cabinet saw designed for cutting sheet goods . Dust collection is a must after you are used to it (not really needed if you are doing new home builds?). Bluetooth dust collector auto start is a must for battery-powered tools. Also one of the best features that is on the Festool is the outside splinter guard. This prevents splintering on the opposite side of the cut from the track splinter guard saving material and eliminating the need for a second cut to clean up the edge. No need for a second scoring cut and therefore much more efficient over a long day of cutting.
I use tracksaws primarily for breaking down sheet goods and making splinterfree precise cuts. If you are looking for cheap blades and might be hitting nails etc I think you should look at a carpentry saw (Festool, Mafell) or the worm drive cordless carpentry saws such as the Milwaukee 7 1/4 worm drive saw. The Festool and Mafell carpentry saws are pretty cool and also have very short detachable tracks making them an alternative to a compound mitre saw (but not as precise for furniture or cabinet making).
For those buying the new Milwaukee, enjoy and let us know what you think when you get one.
Emyr Harries
I’m after a milwaukee plunge track saw, where’s best PRICE
Stuart
The price is the same everywhere right now.