A new Milwaukee Tool press release hit my inbox today, and it’s titled: Milwaukee Wrecks the Jobsite with New Drilling Hammer, Nail Pullers, and Pry Bars.
That’s definitely one of the best titles I’ve seen so far, but I digress.
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I think the nail pullers and pry bars might be of strong reader interest, but found myself compelled to tackle a post on the drilling hammer first.
Drilling hammers are as fairly simply as hammers can be, but they’re also incredibly versatile.
I went back and forth about buying my first (and only) drilling hammer for a while. Did I need a drilling hammer, or an engineer hammer? I ultimately concluded that an engineer hammer was more akin to a mini sledge hammer for demolition work and a drilling hammer would be better suited for general workshop use. I eventually caught a good sale and bought a Stanley 3lb drilling hammer for $15 online.
But then, here’s Milwaukee advertising their new drilling hammer as a demo tool. I think that drilling hammers can be demo tools, but I use them more like a stubby and heavy-weight ball pein hammer, for driving larger chisels, punches, and other such things.
I think I would treat Milwaukee’s new drilling hammer as a sort of hybrid tool.
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Milwaukee’s new drilling hammer has a milled face on one side, and a smooth face on the other.
The milled face is said to provide additional grip when striking chisels, punches, stakes, and spikes, helping to prevent slippage or misstrikes. The smooth face is better suited for general demo or driving tasks.
The hammer features a high-strength fiberglass handle that’s reinforced for overstrike protection just under the hammer head.
Milwaukee says the new design provides ultimate power and durabilty, and that the hammer is precision balanced and delivers forceful blows with less effort.
Additional features include a peel-resistant grip and tether-ready lanyard hole.
Price: $18
ETA: July 2020
Model: 48-22-9310
Buy Now via Home Depot (Coming Soon)
Compare: Estwing Fiberglass Hammer via Amazon
Compare: Estwing Steel Hammer via Amazon
Compare: Gearwrench Fiberglass via Amazon
Discussion
When I said that drilling hammers are as fairly simply as hammers could be, I meant that they’re basic in a “they’re boring and there’s not much to them” kind of way. Still, when you need one, I’m sure you’re glad to have one. I rarely use mine, but when I need it, there’s no easy substitute.
It has been more than 12 years since I bought my Stanley AntiVibe drilling hammer, and it practically looks brand new. I remember going back and fort for a while before settling on a drilling hammer vs. an engineer hammer, and Amazon temporarily dropping the price on a Stanley helped me decide on the brand.
If you want a steel-handled hammer, it’ll cost a bit more. Looking at competitive fiberglass-handled drilling hammers, Estwing has one for $16 at Amazon (linked above), and Gearwrench has one for $21.
The press materials list the new Milwaukee drilling hammer at $18, and Home Depot’s product page has it for $20.
Compared to the other fiberglass-handled drilling hammers I took a quick look at, Milwaukee’s has the added overstrike protection zone, the addition of a milled face on one side of the hammer head, and a tether-ready lanyard hole, while being in the same ballpack with respect to price.
It seems that the new Milwaukee drilling hammer is a little more thought-out than the competition, or at least a little more premium-designed.
The Milwaukee hammer also looks to have a greater taper at the end of the handle, and I wonder if this is directly related to the “precision balance” that they’re talking about, or if it’s just a hand-stop.
Looking at a couple of competitive options, why would I buy another brand’s offering over this new Milwaukee? At around the same price, the Milwaukee looks to deliver some extra features. I don’t know if I’d take advantage of the milled strike face, but it seems like it could be potentially useful.
To put it bluntly, Milwaukee’s new drilling hammer isn’t a game-changer, and it has hints of “me too” as they deepen their selection of general construction and demo tools. However, despite the subtle suggestion of this being a “me too” product, it has obvious competitive benefits. Do the Gearwrench or Estwing hammers have an overstrike zone? Do they have lanyard holes for securing the tool when working above? No and no.
Dewalt came out with a new drilling hammer last year. Their 3lb drilling hammer is listed at Home Depot for $17, but it doesn’t look like you can actually order it.
That Dewalt hammer is in the same $15 to $20 price range as the Milwaukee, and it similarly features a fiberglass handle with overstrike protection. It seems more oriented towards demolition work, described as a drilling sledge hammer with an aggressively pointed face on one side.
It might have been interesting to see how the two hammer styles compared, but Dewalt’s doesn’t seem to be widely available right now (anymore?). The Milwaukee looks more “traditionally designed,” if there is such a thing. I’d categorize or describe the Milwaukee as featuring improvements over existing tried-and-true models, with the Dewalt trying harder to be brand new.
That’s why the Milwaukee seems a little “me too” in nature, but this is a good thing. That it offers slight improvements with regard to features and geometry, rather than trying to be too new and different, makes it compelling.
If I were to buy a new drilling hammer today, I think I would narrow my choices down to either this fiberglass-handled Milwaukee, or Estwing’s steel-handled hammer. Fiskars also has a 3lb hammer ($35 and change via Amazon), but I don’t if it’s worth double the price.
Just a few years ago, Milwaukee entered the hand tool market with just a few offerings. Now, what don’t they offer?
TomB
They make great persuaders of things slightly stuck. Much prefer these with a narrow wood handle, let’s you use a thumb forward grip and just a flick of the wrist.
fred
In some trades/industries persuaders (hammers and mallets) come in different materials to best suit the application so while the weight might do the persuading the material might prevent some damage. A steel hammer might be OK – but you might also think about (in alphabetical order):
Aluminum hammers
Brass hammers
Bronze hammers
Copper mallets
Deadblow mallets with urethane or steel faces
Lead hammers
Nylon mallets
Plastic-faced hammers
Rawhide mallets
Rubber mallets
Sorbothane mallets
Wood mallets
Zinc hammers
Koko The Talking Ape
I think I saw beryllium hammers some decades ago. They are spark-free, but so are copper, bronze, etc. Maybe they’re harder?
fred
Stuart might explain bronze alloys better – but I know beryllium bronze and aluminum bronze are sometimes used in tool making. Ampco is one brand of Bronze tools that find favor for use where sparks are a no-no.
https://www.zoro.com/search?q=ampco%20driling%20hammer
I guess when ancient man learned to alloy tin with copper – ushering in the Bronze Age – man’s tool-making possibilities expanded mightily. Once iron smelting – was perfected – hand tools moved to another level in the Iron Age.
aerodawg
I keep steel, brass, copper, lead, rawhide and rubber handy in the machine shop. That covers 99% of my needs anyway
Sam
Yes Sir!
fred
The name “drilling hammer” derives its name from when star drills and hand drilling of masonry and stone were in common usage. When the steam drill (as in the John Henry song) appeared – hand drilling in the mining industry faded away. Once pneumatic then electric and finally cordless rotohammers appeared – the tedious usage of star drills all but faded into oblivion.
https://www.hardwarestore.com/dasco-products-inc-star-drill-3-4-x12.html
Other hammers in somewhat similar shape are sometimes called:
Club hammers
Hand Sledge Hammer
Lump Hammers
Stone Carving Hammer
As Stuart points out so called Engineer’s Hammers are an alternative – some come with 2 octagonal faces – some with one crosspeen end.
TomB
Thank you for the history Fred! Always assumed they were just a difference of colloquialisms.
Koko The Talking Ape
I saw drilling hammers and star drills in a tour of a mining museum in northern Colorado.
But what’s that “engineer’s hammer” that Stuart talks about?
Andrew D.
Engineer’s hammers are usually about 12″ long, 4lb heads, and two flat faces. I think they were probably named so for the engine maintenance workers on locomotives and ships. Just a guess on that 2nd part though.
Koko The Talking Ape
Aha, thanks!
Jim P.
I still have a star drill in my box for small jobs in block. Hardly use it though
Allen
When I taught school I gave Estwing drilling hammers for graduation presents. I’ve seen students twenty or more years later tell me they still have that hammer. None better in my opinion.
fred
My Alma Mater’s logo includes a graphic of a drilling hammer and an engineer’s crosspeen hammer crossed in a X-pattern. The school’s origin traces back to a school of mines that was started up as part of an older university during the Civil War
rob
I’m sitting here thinking, “Why would I buy a Milwaukee or Dewalt branded and oem’d from a faceless manufacturer drill/club hammer when I’m swimming in Estwings and Picards that will outlive my grandchildren?”.
KMS
Where are these being made?
Stuart
Most Milwaukee hand tools are made in Asia, except for their squares and certain other layout tools.
fred
If you want excellent quality – made in USA hammers for stone work – take a look at Trow & Holden – still made in Vermont:
https://trowandholden.com/hammers.html
Allen
Thanks for that link, I’m going to look into them.
Brían S Du Bois
Thank you for the link. I was looking for USA made sledge hammers. I am sick of major brands making tools in China, Vietnam, India, Mexico, etc. It is past time to put US workers first!
NoahG
For a USA made sledge look at Harwood
Jared
The Estwing hammer is the one I used to hammer those fencing nails I complained about in the other thread. It’s a good hammer, albeit I still think not quite the right tool for that job. I like the look of this Milwaukee though – I actually think the milled face could be handy.
Stuart
If a 3lb drilling hammer can’t do the job, a 4lb engineer hammer is the next best thing. In addition to the heavier weight, the handle is usually longer, giving you a more powerful swing.
I know that a palm nailer was brought up, but I’m not convinced that’ll do the trick with say a 5″ nail/spike.
JSBson
My palm nailer does fine with 5″ spikes into 100 year old pine beams. Not the fastest thing but better than me with a 24oz. hammer. Due to wrist tendon issues a heaver hammer is not a possibility.
Stuart
Thank you!
I found myself thinking more about the “autohammers” from a few years ago, which can drive in framing nails although not very fast or comfortably.
Joe H
I keep a drilling hammer in my truck’s tool bag for vehicle repairs on the side of the road or in parking lots or a friend’s driveway. The short handle is nice when you dont have the luxury of a floor jacks, jacks stands, cribbing, or a vehicle lift to have the room to swing a typical ball peen. Otherwise I’d consider buying a very heavy ball peen and cut the handle.
DRT
I like 3 lb drilling hammers for the same reason that Joe H mentions – they get the job done within limited spaces. I own several. Actually, a Craftsman 3 lb was the first tool I ever bought and I still have it. I also own both the fiberglass and steel Estwing’s. The Milwaukee looks useful – might have to check one out.
fred
Here’s a link o an Italian Brand (Osca) club hammer:
https://www.amazon.com/OSCA-Hammer-3-Component-Handle-OS200086/dp/B00KXX9B9U
And what Picard (a German brand) calls a mining sledge:
https://www.amazon.com/Picard-0030490-600-Chisel-Mining-sledge/dp/B0001JZX52/
DRT
Whoa ! I like that Italian one.
Grady
I Think The Dewalt Drilling Hammer Will Make A Good Paper Weight.
Jammer
I really like my Gedore 1250g club hammer. It has a short handle and the weight is nearly perfect for using with most cold chisels. If I need to use my big 1in cold chisel more I might need to step up to the 2000g version, but for the most part it’s more than sufficient. I really like the square shaped faces and they are flat, so it doesn’t slip when contacting the chisel head.
rob
I really like ALL of my Gedore hammers. ?