I have been making good progress on my OLFA-sponsored project, taking advantage of the opportunity to try out some new techniques.
Given that the sponsorship is centered round OLFA snap-blade knives, I have fully integrated several of their products into my work, treating it as I would a review.
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It started out slow. I would be working on something simple, when the same thought came to mind – “I should use my OLFA knife on this.”
Before long, the thought process changed to “I want to use my OLFA knife for this.” It’s now where I seek it out, as a preference.
The biggest and best parts of these knives is that they have sharp blades – and several of them readily available – and great user-friendly engineering.
These aren’t like the snap blade knives I was introduced to years ago, they’re easier to use, and simply more convenient.
There is one simple truth that I learned about myself. In general, many tool users don’t change power tool accessories frequently enough. They wear down blades and bits until they’re completely non-functional, and even then, some will push the accessories further.
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What I realized was that I tend to do the same with utility knife blades, and I’m sure I’m not alone in this. With a standard utility knife, I reverse the blade when the first side starts to noticeably lose its performance. But then that second size, I tend to keep the blade in the knife until it’s practically useless, especially when I’m using a knife with no built-in blade storage compartment, or when I know I’m on the last blade.
In using these OLFA knives, I have found that I change blades more often, and in doing so I’ve been seeing less frustrations.
I have used my knife to cut:
- Ceiling tile – as a test, I have a replacement project coming up
- Drywall (scoring)
- Foam insulation (scoring)
- Rubber sheating
- Card stock (for shim and template)
- Wood (marking, and to prevent tearout)
- Small rubber hose
What I found is that in most applications, it performs as well as or better than a standard utility knife.
When setting up layout lines in wood, I typically use a pencil, marker, or knife. A sharp marking knife leaves a crisp and straight line that can be easier to cut to than a thicker pencil line. Thin pencil lines typically lead to broken leads, and marker lines can be even thicker.
I cannot find my marking knife. I have tried using my utility knife for marking wood in the past, but anything other than a fresh blade can make a mess of things. And as mentioned, like many others, I suffer from a reluctance to change utility knife blades as often as I should.
I have been making small boxes as part of a separate project. With the first box, trimming the side pieces to fit has been a trial and error process, in one case resulting in short cuts that I had to scrap.
With my last box, I had my OLFA knife available, and used it as a marking knife as I had in a couple of other projects. I had a fresh blade, made the cut line, and went to the miter saw, setting it up to the line exactly.
Poof, a perfect trim and perfect fit.
With a standard utility knife, there are plenty of times when I think to myself “I should have changed my blade.” When a blade is dull, but not even completely dull, it can fray or tear lots of materials, not to mention increase cutting effort.
The biggest thing about the OLFA knives is that they encourage as-needed blade changes. A single segmented blade lasts a long time, but there are backups at the ready. I don’t change blades frequently, but I don’t wait as long as with standard utility knives, and this has led to better results. This has been my experience with their knives, but I imagine that it’s true for many others.
The blades are extremely sharp, very durable (meaning they don’t dull very quickly), and have impressed me more than I expected. So far, the knives have held up well. To be frank, I was surprised at first, due to the fiberglass construction, but after many drops and rough handling, my main OLFA knife looks almost as good as new, and works the same as Day 1.
Here are some reader comments from the previous giveaway posts:
Scott: Got my trial from the first opportunity it is way better than the Stanley I have. I went ahead and bought a small cutter to match.
The Yeti:Olfa knives are the best. I use the 25mm all the time. Very few brands I would stand behind like I do Olfa. I just dont think they have an equal.
JML: Olfa and Tajima blades and handles are outstanding. The variety of blades is worth checking out – three standard widths, two angles, coated blades, and heavy-duty versions.
ESA: I started using OLFA knives as a little boy in Finland for cutting balsa wood when building free-flight and RC planes. For perfect cuts, there just wasn’t anything better available. Since then, for the past 30+ years, they have been the only knife I use on any project. The 18mm size seems to be the best all around knive. I can’t even start listing all the materials I’ve cut with them over the years while building a house from ground up, doing three complete remodels on my homes, and working on hundreds of other projects. The blades are extremely sharp and deserve respect (I won’t tell you here why/how I know that!)…
RCWARD: I got a free one awhile back and it was much better then I thought it would be. A quality knife that is sharp and works well. Nice edition to the shop.
ca: I use OLFAs on the job instead of the standard utility blade. Just remember they’re designed for cutting, not prying.
KENT: I am a commercial carpenter for over a decade and Olfas are the only knife I’ll use. I use the 18mm x series with the hook on the back. I use the hook on the back as much as I use the knife. If you’re doing drywall there is no better knife.
I can now see why OLFA utility knives are popular, and why their users swear by them.
My OLFA knives have taken the place of my standard utility knives in a lot of areas, but not completely. I still use standard utility knives for cutting cardboard (most of the time), and there’s one with a recessed cutting slot that I have been using on twine.
At first, my OLFA usage was part of the sponsored project exploration process, but then it developed into a natural preference once I become more familiar with them. Once this sponsorship is over, there will still be an OLFA knife at the ready.
Part of my preference stems from the fact that it has made certain tasks easier and quicker to accomplish. Because a fresh cutting edge is usually quick snap away, I don’t struggle as much with dull blades that should have already been swapped out.
With a standard utility knife blade, I rarely use in-handle blade storage (which isn’t even available on my most-used utility knives), which means that I have at most one backup cutting edge, and that’s it. Even then, I can’t glance over to check the condition of that second blade.
I use the 18mm size most of all, and the 9mm when I need a smaller blade. There’s also a heavier duty 25mm knife.
Buy Now(18mm LA-X Knife via Amazon)
Buy Now(9mm LA-X Knife via Amazon)
Chris
Speaking of blades (and I know this is the wrong post, and wrong type of blade) but I sent out two submissions for the freebie Lenox jigsaw blades. And I still haven’t gotten them. Has anyone actually received any?
DRT
Nope, nothing yet.
Hilton
Nope me neither.
Joren
They have both a “super sharp” blade set – black oxide coating I think, and also a stainless steel blade set – better rust resistance for the truck or pocket.
I keep stock of them, and have put both the 9mm and 7mm blade tools all over the house, work, car, truck, etc.
Altan
I do like Olfa blades and some other Japanese products but I try to buy less of Japanese products as I feel they might have a bit of radiation after Fukushima! Unfortunately some DeWALT batteries are also made in Japan…
Jim
Concerned about radiation from Fukushima when buying Japanese products?
Are you insane? Do you just assume that all Japanese are radioactive and their entire country is as well?
fred
No need to name-call. The fact is that most everything is a bit more radioactive ever since the first atomic bomb was tested at Los Alamos.
I’d probably be more concerned about eating lots of fish caught off the coast of Fukushima – but not so much about radiations from Japanese tools.
My family bought a business in the 1950’s that happened to have a warehouse with a stockpile of pig-lead. Turns out that it had been squirreled away in the 1930’s and the lead had been cast into pigs before Los Alamos. Turns out – the lead was rather valuable because it had fewer radioactive particles cast into it compared to newer lead. Even though new lead might have some infinitesimal amount of radioactive material in it – the old stuff is better for use as shielding in sensitive instruments.
Jim
I wasn’t name calling. I was asking a very serious question. It’s not exactly hard to get an answer to questions about radiation levels in Japan, hell, you can see real time levels on the web.
Very big difference between Japanese seafood and products shipped from japan.
Redcastle
Fred
Completely off topic Rigid were proudly present as an independent producer of decent plumbing tools at the tool show I was at on Friday doing good business.
As part of the arrangements put in place with TTI they were acting as a distributor for AEG and were both sad that the multi head OMT tool seemed to have disappeared and also that Bunnings Australian version of Home Depot which purchased Homebase the second big box store in the UK having sold Homebase had put the arrangement whereby Homebase had Ryobi and AEG literally in some cases on back to back racks in jeopardy, however the AEG income stream was peripheral and it’s potential loss not a threat.
With regard to the purchase of that business that owned the lead are you familiar with the expression fell in a sewer and came up smelling of roses (slightly modified as I know Stuart does not like rude words) I distinguish between fortunate and lucky with the distinction being I buy a lottery ticket and win that is pure luck, being presented with an unexpected opportunity and then through smart actions or hard work exploiting the same is fortunate. The Gary Player comment the harder I practice the luckier I get always springs to mind in this case your family was definitely fortunate.
Altan
I don’t eat fish from oceans, organic farmed fish from lakes only. I do agree everything is becoming more and more radioactive by time.
ktash
Fred, you should publish a book, “The Interesting Stories and Tool Wisdom of Fred.” Just collect your comments and put them together. I’m always happy to see your comments, containing these things. The pig iron story is fascinating and instructive. Who knew how many kinds of pliers (or clamps, or …) there were?
The perspective of those who have a lifetime of experience in using tools is so valuable. Plus, a kind of perspective on life. I’m not joking about the book (or maybe an audiobook).
Altan
I am just concerned about Japanese products after that disaster, I have the right to be concerned, I remember just after that diaster Danish government told its citizens in Japan to stay there for a while to be checked (I think) probably to prevent bringing any radiation to the country. People have the right to be concerned about these things and I am not going to ask you to be or not! You have your own life and I have my own. Learn to leave people alone with their minds! I have not assumed anything like that and I don’t think the whole country and their products are radioactive, but if I don’t have the option to know which ones are and which ones are not I better keep away from them as much as possible. I still use some Japanese tools when I don’t have another option being always stressed while using them! I think you are more insane than me having verbal attack on people when they just say their opinion, looks like a general middle eastern mentality to me.
Koko the Talking Ape
I have been using cheap snap knives (pen-sized ones that cost a little over a buck at Home Depot) for marking cuts for years. They are just about ideal for that task. They are light and handy. They are short enough that the end rests nicely in my palm, and the tip extends just beyond my index finger. The blade deploys quickly and can be locked in place. It is reliably sharp. It is thin and flat, so it rides tight against a square or straightedge. The edge is straight and in line with the handle (like a Wharncliffe knife blade), which helps it cut deeply. The grind angle is fairly low (though I haven’t measured it) so even though it is ground on both sides of the blade, the knife doesn’t want to pull away from a straight edge as you draw it down the straightedge.
Two minor flaws: the blades can rust in a humid environment, and the plastic construction isn’t heavy. I’ve had the locking mechanism break on one or two knives over the years.
A larger knife, like the Olfa one here, doesn’t seem to work any better, and the blades are more expensive.
And a note: snapping off the TIP doesn’t give you a new BLADE. It just gives you a new tip. Marking cuts wears only the tip, so that’s fine, but other tasks (like cutting up insulation) puts wear further down the blade. Snapping off the tip won’t rejuvenate the blade in that case.
Adabhael
Good point in the last paragraph about new tip vs new blade. When I Olfa drywall (yeah, Olfa Knives are so ubiquitous that me and my fiends use it as a verb), I find the tip gets beat up scoring, so I score with the tip, fold and snap the drywall, and then slide a little more blade out to cut the second paper face neatly with the still-sharp “belly” of the blade. I find a worn tip that can still scores against a guide will often leave a mangled mess cutting paper alone. When the tip cannot even score anymore, I snap and get a new tip on the blade and keep going. My experience has been that the earlier cuts farther along the blade don’t compromise the ability of the tip to do a good job scoring. I also find the heavy-duty blades (black oxide) hold up better in this application, and are worth the small additional cost.
The yeti
Had no idea about the black blades. All mine are and always have been stainless. I will look for black oxide blades next box i buy
ktash
Ok, worth a try as a marking knife. I sometimes use an xacto knife, but like the retractable feature of this compared to the xacto.
Stuart
I used it in a pinch as a marking knife, but it worked quite well.
Wouldn’t the tip of an X-Acto or other hobby knife be a little too fragile for that kind of task?
Koko the Talking Ape
Yeah, I think an x-acto would be too delicate, or at least the standard #11 blades would be.
Also, the sharp edge is slanted in relation to the handle, which makes it better for slicing materials apart, but not as good for making a deep cut into a thick material (which is what marking a cut is.)
Redcastle
Stuart
I tried to post on this topic it did not appear and when I tried to repost it said I had already posted – any idea why?
Stuart
I don’t know?
There’s one comment from you in moderation, the one you said you didn’t want to public, and I’ll email you about it later before acting on it.
One of your other recent comments went to moderation too, and I don’t know why.
But here? I can’t find anything. I’ll look later when I’m in front of my computer.
I’ve been testing a plugin that was deactivated in May, and it can slow down comment submission, but that wouldn’t do what you’re describing.
Redcastle
Stuart
That is a pain in that it was quite long and covered my fondness for OLFA and it’s products and that they manufacture more than knives and rotary cutters.
It also spoke to double sided Japanese marking knives (For left and right handers in one tool) which in terms of marking particularly for hardwood beat any knife, pencil or other tool I have used.
I do not know if they are available in the USA but OX Tools do a 9mm snap off blade made out of a hard graphite which I originally bought just to see if it worked and have found it quite good on softwood.
Your post some time ago about using lead pointers/pencils for marking led me to invest in some of those for general marking, which then led to Progesso all lead markers for surfaces where black does not work well and so on.
Stuart
Sorry, that definitely sucks.
An auto-block by the spam filter leads to a 404 error, and in the rare case that that happens, my advice is to go “back,” copy the comment, paste something, and then paste the comment in an email to me (or the contact form) for me to edit into your published comment. Certain word sequences trigger the spam filter. This happens to me or is brought to my attention maybe once a year.
There’s a morning post from you at: https://toolguyd.com/my-recent-experiences-with-olfa-snap-blade-utility-knives/#comment-1189622 .
And there’s another early morning comment, but it went to moderation because there was an extra letter added to your email field, leading the spam filter to treat it as a “new commentor” comment. That’s the one I’ll keep unpublished as you suggested, at least until we talk about it more.
It’s possible there was a comment system glitch, a browser glitch, or both. There’s nothing in spam, trash, or pending.
ktash
You’re right, depending on what the item/wood is. I need to sharpen some of the vintage marking knives I have, or buy a new one. Maybe BF sales will have something good. Any ideas about a good quality but reasonably priced one?
Stuart
Can’t go wrong with Veritas.
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=60044&cat=1,42936,60044
Koko the Talking Ape
I tried one, and also a Japanese marking knife. I like the snap-off knives better. The thinner blade, sharpened on a long side, penetrates better, and it is safer and lighter. With the Veritas, I was afraid it would roll off the table and pierce my foot (it has flats on the handle to prevent that, but still.) The snap knife is so light that even if it fell on my foot, it wouldn’t penetrate. It is also easier to keep in a pocket.
ktash
Thanks for the comments on Veritas marking knife, Stuart. I’d looked at the Veritas before. Their free shipping just ended, so I’ll wait for another cycle. I’ll look at the Japanese knives in the meantime, thanks Redcastle and Koko. Maybe Japan Woodworker is one source.
JAYoung
I began using and Olfa to replace an X-Acto decades ago in preparation of camera-ready paste-up of copy at a newspaper, before Quark X-Press came on the scene.
I had seen a lot of blood spilled when X-Actos got out of control and the retractable Olfa solved that problem.
ktash
@JAYoung, agreed! They’re not scary sharp like a good chisel, but rather scary and sharp. Why they make the handle round is beyond me. I used to use them to cut mats then just decided to buy pre-made mats. The Olfa might get me back to cutting them.
Stuart
Have you tried dedicated mat cutters? (Such as by Logan?) They’re pricier than multi-use knives and cutters, but work quite well, especially when paired with the special straightedge.
BayLectrics
Without question, combine the metal bodied Dewalt 9mm snap knife with the Olfa 9mm BLACK snap blades and you have the most convenient, practical, all purpose “slicer” (a snap knifes inherent inability to pinch prevents me from using the word, cutter) reasonable money can buy.
It solves any and every qualm you’ve ever as it maintains the slim profile despite noticeably increased weight and user confidence, and ancient samurai sword like cutting edge
DRT
Yes! That is exactly my favorite setup.
Redcastle
OLFA make an all metal 9mm knife which with the black blades is marketed over here particularly at decorators I do not know if it is sold in the USA. Yes it is more expensive than the equivalent Stanley or DeWalt but it is an expectionally nice knife to use.
Redcastle
OLFA make an all metal 9mm knife which with the black blades is marketed over here particularly at decorators I do not know if it is sold in the USA. Yes it is more expensive than the equivalent Stanley or DeWalt but it is an expectionally nice knife to use.
CX
Weird seeing a review of Olfa cutters. Maybe they’re more common in Canada but these things have been in and around the house since I was a kid. Standard reversible utility knives seem like something handed down from neanderthals.
I find their thicker heavy-duty blades best for most jobs, with the ratcheting wheel knives providing the most secure hold on the blade. Also do yourself a favor and get one of their blade disposal cases like a cheap DC-4. It’s genuinely great for such a simple accessory:
https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-1064415-DC-4-Blade-Disposal/dp/B0006SDOJ0
Dedicating an Olfa with a harder to find serrated pull-saw blade also comes in handy.
Matt Jones
Thanks for posting that! I came here to say that I’ve been using Olfas for years, both in hobby and construction work and my one bed is having to find a place for the snapped off tips. I do wish they’d figure out a way to integrate it into the knife, but that’s a nice little catch can.
Also, I agree on the ratchet being the best grip, but I’ve been pleasantly surprised with the x series auto lock from the giveaway. It’s much better than the older one I have, which doesn’t hold up to much pressure.
Redcastle
The serrated tool blade was sold in the UK via stationers rather than tool retailers never understood why.
David
So, now I’m looking at the Olfa handles on Amazon. There are many sizes and shapes, regular, craft, and heavy duty. There are stainless, black coated, hooked, and whatever else blades.
Who wants to comment on their favorite handles and blades, and perhaps why?
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=Olfa+snap
Thanks!
Alex
Go with the fiber glass 18 mm. I think it’s the more practical size and it’s a very nice handle. Then if you need to cut something really thick like insulation, buy another 25 mm which is a bit too big to be an all around kinfe. They also gave 9 mm and rotary cutter but I think they are more oriented toward finer crafts than construction.
As for the blades, go with the black ones. They are super sharp and worth every penny. I would also buy a blade disposer. Much more practical than using some pliers to snap the blade and you won’t have leftover blades laying all round. You can keep it in your tool belt.
I didn’t know olfa knives were not well known in the US. Here’s in Canada, they are everywhere and they are reallly great knives.
David
Thanks.
Framer joe
Not for framing, remodeling, construction of any type…also the couple I bought to try ,we’re inferior to other brands…
…most utility knifes don’t have storage? Everyone in the trades uses folding utility knifes with blade storage and extremely easy quick blade change,just a button or you can buy Auto blade change…
….these type of knifes have a purpose for hobbies or to cut out in shapes in foam.
Matt Jones
Olfa makes one that holds another 5 blades, so up to 40 snaps before you need to reload. It also auto-loads each blade. Not trying to change your mind, but it’s super convenient just having that in my pouch instead of worrying about carrying spare blades. I definitely prefer the snap blades anyway, but having 4 times as many cuts (compared to my storage on my utility knife) in my knife would sell me all by itself.
The yeti
Curious what brand u prefer Framer Joe. Up here. OLFA is standard. Market leader etc. I can not find anything near as good never mind better. Not sure what you guus are using down south. Must be good stuff if it is better than 25 mm OLFA .
Could take a finger off with a new OLFA blade real easy
Redcastle
Framer Joe
As part of a much more comprehensive post on the topic of OLFA knives I referenced I have half a dozen Stanley knives as they are known over here and blades to fit them from over a dozen manufacturers.
While I own all OLFA’s non stationery tools including their very heavy duty scrapers, I am not a hobbyist. I grew up with Stanley knives, own examples of attempts by companies particularly Stanley to develop special purpose blades which in most cases died because the basic tool and blade are excellent at what they do, however there are activities for which snap off knives are more appropriate, you can use a Stanley knife but you will achieve a better result with a different tool. I CAME across OLFA because we conducted very specialised restoration of woodwork in one case to repair window frames holding 200 year old glass which was subject to a preservation order, the work needed scrapers which were well above the ones normally available and in looking for them came across OLFA. They make a lot of tools which are not snap off knives.
I referenced in another post to an uncle of mine who was rumoured to have only four tools in his toolbar the problem was they were all hammers. You can express a preference and support a particular tool without denigrating people who use something different.
fred
While the oldest houses in the US are probably in St. Augustine – we did restorations on a number of colonial era house in the Northeast. Preserving and restoring window sashes and old glass was sometimes de rigueur. Dental tools were often employed along with various scrapers. We bought (per an old inventory that I have) various shapes from Allway, Hyde Goodell , Red Devil and Russell (all USA Made – back then anyway), We had a few Harris scrapers make in the UK. We also used Automotive plastic scrapers from Bojo and specialized scrapers from CRL (CR Laurence). We never tried Olfa – but lately our painting subcontractor was touting another Japanese made brand : Nisaku
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=nisaku+scraper
Redcastle
Fred
The OLFA scrapers we used were very sharp and mostly could be reshaped, they also can with offsets and in handed versions, I must find out why Japan seems to produce more handed tools than elsewhere (I am left handed) their standard straight approximately 50mm wide scraper has become my scraper of choice. It is not cheap but after using it, it is difficult to go back to a “normal” scraper.
fred
My home shop tools include a batch of standard and custom handled-scrapers for wood from Auriou Tool Works in France. I recall that they cost around $25 a piece 10 to 12 years ago. They cut and sharpen up very well. Since Auriou has morphed into Forge de Saint Juery – I’m not sure if they are still made – and a Google search just locates their stone scrapers.
Alex
Where did you buy it? I can’t find it in Canada
Comms Guy
I use mine mostly for stripping cable. They also make great scissors and, of course what they are known for, rotary cutters.
Redcastle
Below link gives an idea as to the range of tools available and there are even more in Japan.
http://Www.olfatools.co.uk
E F Tee
I got my Olfa XMT-1 from this place in the UK https://www.olfacutters.co.uk/olfa-xmt-1
I also use Olfa FWB-10 Excel Black Ultra Sharp Blade, ideal for Splicing two layers of wallpaper, makes easy work and the finish is perfect,
John
I don’t do most of the stuff mentioned here., but I cut a lot of cardboard (emphasis). I hate snap-off blades as they seem to perform poorly compared to the old style. I use m-fastback knives, and I change blades very often because they dull so quick. Now to my question–sort of. After reading your post (which was far more inclusive than cutting cardboard) it seems that ~50% of the love for this knife is a prompted behavioral change–switching blades. That is a non issue for me. What about these blades is inherently better? Do they grab the material better? Do you believe that trait would last on cardboard? I’ll buy if it is an inherently better tool, but that is not what I interpreted your review to say.
Stuart
It was suggested that I explore applications outside of cutting cardboard, and so I did. Not because of any performance concerns, but because they’re particularly popular for such tasks, but can be used for so much more.
For cutting cardboard, almost anything will do.
That all said, part of what I like is the behavioral adjustments they encourage, but the blades are also top-quality, (subjectively) performing every bit as good as the best utility knife blades I’ve tried. I’ve cut some cardboard, and didn’t find any cause for complaint.
Apples to apples, I did end up liking these better than other snap blade knives I’ve used or remember using.
Apples to oranges is what I’ve been mainly exploring, trying to see if they could stand in for traditional utility knives, and I found that they can.
ktash
Question about the disposal case: Are there different sizes for different blades, or a one-size fits-all Olfa sizes? I understand from the Amazon reviews that you can’t use them for utility knife blades or razor blades. Also these apparently come free with some of the products (blade refills?). These sound great especially if there are children in the house.
Stuart
From what I can tell, there are different sizes, and also the Olfa DC-3 looks to be a one-size-fits-all type of product.
I haven’t seen any that come with blade refills.
Some of the disposal containers look to be temporary holders. The DC-3 looks like it could be a throwaway-type disposal product.
CX
The slot in the DC-4 disposal case is 1.5″ wide so it’ll take any size snap blade or double-pointed utility blade. Trying to force a single-edge razor blade through it is tight but nothing that can’t be made easier with a strip of sandpaper or emery cloth and maybe taking the case apart.