I mentioned in a couple of social media roundup posts that I had purchased a Powermatic 8″ jointer, and a few readers asked about how I made my purchasing decision.
I have been wanting to buy a jointer for a while, and I kept flip-flopping about all of the different options.
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Should I go with a benchtop jointer? A lot of woodworkers lament about their low quality, limited capacity, and small table sizes. I was not sold on this idea.
What about a 6″ floor-standing jointer? Powermatic’s looked appealing, a 110V motor meant it could be powered from any outlet, and it had a manageable size.
What about an 8″ jointer? Powermatic’s is longer than their 6″, it requires 220V power (I do have a single 220V outlet and can have more installed), and it costs more.
What about Powermatic’s 8″ parallelogram-style jointer? Parallelogram-style jointers are said to be much easier to adjust than their dovetail table models? Powermatic’s requires 220V power, costs quite a bit more money than the other options, and it’s very large.
Every time I tried to make a purchasing decision, I settled on two options – Powermatic’s 6″ 110V model and their 8″ parallelogram model. I figured I’d go with the more compact 6″ plug-in-anywhere model or completely future-proof with the 8″ parallelogram model.
I started working with a Jet 6″ benchtop jointer review sample – it’s amazing by the way – and immediately got the itch to come to a purchasing decision. It was time to buy a floor-standing jointer. Powermatic’s holiday season deal came along, and I went with their 8″ dovetail adjustment model – the one model I ruled out almost from the beginning.
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The 8′ dovetail table model is not perfectly futureproof. If I at any point get a larger workspace or move into an industrial workspace, instead of making do with a 2-car garage and cramped low-ceiling basement, I might want to trade up to a parallelogram model, or maybe one of a European brand’s pricey combination planer-jointers.
The model I went with is smaller and lighter than the parallelogram jointer – but not at all small or light in weight- and although it wasn’t easy I managed to set it up solo. Plus, the shape of the machine is different. The tables overhang the machine like wings, and that means there’s at least some usable storage space underneath them. I put the jointer on a wheeled base and can have wheeled and moveable storage under the wings.
So far, I’m pleased with my purchase, and although I have only taken test cuts, one of my first projects is going to make good use of its capacity.
When you read jointer purchasing questions in online forums and boards, there is a very widely shared opinion that most users will quickly outgrow a 6″ jointer.
There are some users who say they bought a 6″ jointer and it worked for them, but a great majority of jointer owners report that either their 6″ jointer has limitations and they wish they could upgrade, or that they upgraded and wish they purchased an 8″ jointer from the start.
Some users don’t have access to 220V power. Others are on a tight budget. There are lots of reasons why a woodworker might buy a 6″ jointer, but the general online community consensus is that users who could buy an 8″ jointer over a 6″ would be wise to do so.
I started buying wood boards for an upcoming project.
When I ordered the 8″ jointer, I did so thinking its added capacity vs. a 6″ jointer would be a future-proofing decision. The 8″ capacity was not something I anticipated needing to take advantage of immediately or even in the near future, this was an upgrade for “future me,” and not to suit any planned needs.
I should also mention that one of the reasons I went with the 8″ was because I read one user’s account of their 6″ jointer being a little underpowered. This factored into my decision as well. I have a 220V outlet I could use with an extension cord short-term, and can add in another 220V outlet or two in the future.
Boards from the local lumberyard vary in width, with some being ~6″, but others were a little longer. I ordered more – and better quality boards – from an online supplier, and they measure 7-8″ in width.
I need ~3″ wide boards. I can get (1) out of a 6-inch board. The 6-inch board might barely measure 6 inches, and some might have edge defects that take away from the usable width. The ones that don’t are still rough cut. Joint one rough edge of a perfect 6-inch board, or create a straight line rip, then clean up the opposite edge, and it will be at most 5-3/4″ wide and often less.
The pictured ~7-1/2″ board has one edge already straight-line ripped, and if it’s perfect without big knots or defects at the edges, I can definitely get two 3″ boards out of it, and with a lot less waste than if I was working with 6″ wide boards.
The boards are already planed by the lumberyards, but some aren’t perfect and have rough spots, others are a little warped and need to be corrected. I wouldn’t be able to face-joint these boards on a 6″ jointer.
My processing of these boards will likely involve jointing one face, ensuring one smooth and flat edge, planing the opposite face, and rip-cutting the width I need out of the boards.
If any of them adjust and warp after the first rip cut, I can switch the process to cut them down to say 3.5″ boards first and then mill them to perfect squareness. I’d have to do this with a 6″ jointer, but it’d be double the work – at least. If I can face-plane the 7-8″ boards without first cutting them up, that’s the best approach.
I’ll also have some 7-1/2″ cutoffs left over, and I might turn them into side projects. I’ll still need an 8″ jointer for that.
I didn’t anticipate being able to take advantage of the 8″ capacity so quickly, but I’m glad that my first project with this jointer has validated my purchasing decision.
What if I had a smaller budget and even less space than I do now? I’d likely go with the Jet 6″ (true) helical-head benchtop jointer ($849 via Tool Nut). (I’ll be posting more about this model soon!) With a smaller budget, get a good hand plane (I have had great experiences with Lee Valley’s Veritas brand).
There are a couple of 8″ benchtop jointer options, but there’s no way I would be able to effectively use them with the ~2″ thick 7-1/2″ wide hard maple boards I’m working with like the one shown above.
As for why Powermatic?, I went based on reputation. Powermatic’s reputation isn’t quite as stellar as it used to be, based on some online complaints about their quality these days, but I took a gamble and so far there are no major complaints aside from some paint defects and chipping due to rough handling during packaging or shipping.
KajunFramer
Nice machine. Next time, take a look at Oliver. Geetech manufacturers equipment for Powermatic, Jet, Laguna, Grizzly,and SawStop. But they own Oliver, and sell their own brand directly through them. They’re excellent machines, and have excellent customer service.
Stuart
I have looked at Oliver a couple times before, but they always look to be just Grizzly tools but in blue and without many details or feedback among users.
If I’m going with a value brand, it’d likely be a more popular brand or one whose customer service I’m more familiar with such as Jet, Laguna, or Grizzly. Less known, familiar, or popular brands can leave me by myself when a problem arises and I need to take to the internet for advice or parts.
It’s like getting a smartphone that’s not among the most popular models – good luck finding accessories or finding others with the same problem as you when something goes wrong and you can’t find a quick resolution.
Ben
‘Just Grizzly tools in Blue’ – but Powermatic’s are the same thing in yellow?
Stuart
That’s my impression of Oliver from when I looked into them a couple of times, I didn’t say it’s a universal truth.
I have NEVER seen Powermatic tools rebranded as Grizzly or Laguna.
KajunFramer
Compare Powermatic, Jet, and Grizzlies shapers, table saws, and jointers. You’ll see that theyre largely the same. That’s because they’re made by the same company. Geetech just adds a few features, per the distributors request.
“Oliver” is their own brand, build to high specifications. Think Powermatic, without the frills.
As to part availability, you would purchase parts from the manufacturer, the same one whose been manufacturing Powermatic and Grizzly for years.
Oliver isn’t marketed as effectively as other brands, but they are solid industrial machines.
Ben
Stuart,
Powermatic and Grizzly (and Jet and some others) are all the same basic designs made in the same factory. Powermatic’s get the curved base compared to the others, but those are cosmetic changes on effectively accessories. You can go look up head replacements from Byrd and they’ll usually fit multiple models across different vendors. The argument on the woodworking boards is that Powermatic has better quality control (maybe Jet gets some rejects or less perfect castings), better bearings and a better warranty, however at this point very few people argue that they’re materially different. Maybe you’ll get better resale too. Especially ‘simple’ tools like jointers or planers.
Dylan
Nicely put…
fred
We had an Oliver straight line rip saw in our cabinet shop. It was one of the guys favorite tools. Its not a home-shop (440V 3-phase) tool – and today’s price for one puts it out of reach for most hobbyists.
BTW – you can still sometimes find pre-WWII Oliver machinery – but I believe that the original Oliver company that produced it has little or no relation to the original Michigan-based firm
fred
I meant to say that the new company that uses the “oliver name” may not have any relation to the old company
Plain grainy
Are the knives much more expensive for the parallelogram model? I’ve always been very extra safety minded when it comes to jointers & tablesaws. My shop teacher was missing part of a digit courtesy of a jointer, that image still lingers in my mind. Of course shop safety in the 50’s & 60’s was a far cry from today’s. Your electric costs should be lower with a 220v version. So you will recover some of your initial investment slowly over the years.
Plain grainy
By electric costs i mean motor replacements over the tools lifespan. The 220 volt version will run much more efficiently.
Stuart
I went with the helical head, and so instead of knives you use the carbide inserts. I don’t think the two 8” jointers would have different cutter heads. Both are said to have 54 inserts.
MtnRanch
I was wondering when you’d say what type of head. Never, ever buy straight knives, they are a thing of misery left over from more primitive times.
I went with the Grizzly 12″ which is a very similar design, probably out of the same factory, and have zero complaints.
MM
Sounds like a nice tool, Stuart. I think you’ll be happy with the 220V. I’m of the opinion that 120V is adequate for handheld power tools but the moment we’re talking stationary machinery like a table saw, jointer, planer, drill press, etc. I will opt for the more powerful 220V machine every time, and the heavier the machine the better. I’d much rather work well under a machine’s capacity than try and force a lighter duty machine to work beyond its limits.
I’m curious if you’ve given any thought to installing one of those indexable carbide cutterheads in the jointer? I’ve only used those with traditional straight knives but I hear the inexable ones are very very nice.
Stuart
I went with the helical head from the start.
I hear they’re generally quieter, it’s easier to replace individual cutters if they wear or chip, and there’s reduced snipe.
Some users prefer straight blades but the only reason I see is to save money short-term. But why buy a burger when I really want a steak and have been saving up for a steak?
Marko
It really bothers me when when I hear a reference to 110V or 220V and even more when 120V and 220V are used together – the second number should be exactly double of the first number.
The nominal phase voltage in North America is 240V. In every house I have lived so far I would get at least that much, sometimes even 250V. I understand that there could be a voltage drop when you put a high load, but this is usually not the case when people talk about these things. So, did you really measure 110V/220V from your outlet?
208V some people get is a different topic which I am not diving into here.
MtnRanch
I agree. If you measure 110V or 220V, call the power company and have them adjust it to the correct level. If it’s at or below either of those two, it’ll drop too low under load, particularly at the end of a long circuit or extension cord.
I also often wonder why people think putting in a 240V circuit requires some kind of special magic. My whole shop is wired with combo 120/240 outlets and the only “magic” it required is some 12/3 wire and 240V GFCI breaker. Leviton makes a combo 120/240 single gang outlet or you can just put one of each type into a double gang box.
Stuart
Is that why some split the difference and use 115V?
Officially I don’t have a 220V or 240V Machine, Powermatic specifies it as 230V, and their 6″ jointer operates on 115V.
I can’t tell you why 110V and 220V are stuck in my head. Sometimes it comes out as 120V and 220V. I don’t think 240V is ingrained in me, but 220V is, and half that is 110V?
Irregardless (hehe), I’ll make it a point to try to adjust moving forward.
On that point, different people have very different triggers – some cannot stand “dampening” over “damping” even when technically correct to say, and it was drilled into my head that “deaccelerating” is blasphemy. While we’re on this, any other phrasing or common errors I should be on the lookout for?
Marko
220V is the nominal phase voltage in Europe and they do not split it there. I suppose that is why some people talk about “120V/220V”.
I have no clue where 230V comes from. The “averaging” theory may be correct there.
Plain grainy
I have one circuit that I monitor constantly. It usually is 122 lots, then 120-121 under load.
Plain grainy
Make sure when it’s wired up that the motor(cutter head) are turning in the right direction.
frobo
The one that always bugs me is people using “foot-pounds” when talking about torque. In engineering school they hammered into our brains that it’s “pound-feet” for torque, and “foot-pounds” for energy.
Stuart
hmm. Pound-feet sounds weird to me. But then again, from a physics standpoint torque is Newton-meter. Pound-feet follows the same mass-length unit ordering. inch-pounds and foot-pounds sound *correct* to me, but not meter-Newton – that would be absurd.
frobo
Well, it’s confusing, I’ll admit. Most people know when foot-pounds is referring to torque, but it’s technically incorrect to use it that way. Wikipedia does a good job of explaining the situation and the nuances between SI and Imperial nomenclature.
Marko
One is scalar and the other is vector product. But I have never heard Newton-meter or meter-Newton being used in the scalar product (work or energy) context. One would use Joule there.
Stuart
That’s the thing – foot-pounds is widely used in the same context Newton-meter would be for describing torque.
What frobo is saying is that using foot-pounds instead of pound-feet is like using joules to describe torque instead of Newton-meter.
I’ve never realized this before, but I also never learned any differentiations between foot-pounds and pounds-feet. I picked up on the context from fastener or tool specs, which are always in inch-pounds or foot-pounds.
Mr. Creek
Ingrained the difference between concrete and cement. Drives me nuts when used interchangeably.
Chris
I have the Jet version of yours (8″ with the helical head) and have been very happy with it. I picked up an inexpensive motorcycle cover to put over it when I’m not using it.
Nathan
Don’t the cutters have 4 cutting surfaces per side so you can turn it a few times before replacing it?
Stuart
Yes, that too. And they typically last longer per side as well.
Nathan
OH anyway nice piece. I lust after things like that too.
My neighbor just made a table top and hand planned – jointed the boards.
Nathan
110V and 220V is considered the lowest supply voltage nominal. while 240/120 is considered the highest nominal.
IE any AC cirucit in your house should give at min 110 and at most 120 – with most rolling 115 which is why you see that used alot.
Example when I test my outside outlet as I replace my GFCI – I get 115.2VAC.
Over seas – 230Vac 50 cycle is also considered the norm -but 240 is a circuit expected max.
That’s how I was taught and so far it seems to work that way. I have maybe 3 outlets that will test 120VAC always.
Rick
Good write up. I went thru almost the exact same process ~20 years ago when I got my first 8″ jointer- a perfect size for easily doing 90% of what I wanted to.
I’m one of those who prefer straight blades in the jointer; helical in the planer. BUT, factory blades wouldn’t do; once I upgraded to the ESTA blade system (dispozablade), life was great!! Worth a look .
rob
You bought the Powermatic jointer because either it or the extra long Jet are the two ways to go. End of story. 😉
Allen
I’ve never joined the face of a board, always used a planer for that.
Stuart
A planer will smooth and reduce the thickness of a board but it will not flatten the top face of a board if your bottom reference surface is not flat.
Sometimes you can get away it, but it depends on the condition of the board.
Face jointing is a big reason why I got the machine.
Tool Junkie
Allen, if you have a cupped board, all you will get out of a planer is a cupped board with parallel faces. They are made to thickness a board to a uniform thickness. There are rollers inside that push the board flat to the cutter head. You can put cupped boards on a jig sometimes, with supports underneath, so that the bowed points don’t get forced down, but it’s not the same.
Stuart, good choice! You’ll love the carbide knives on the spiral cutterhead. I never had to change mine on my 12″ J/P. I did make the mistake of buying a 6″ jointer, which I felt was too small after the first use!
Many of the machines are made at the same foundries in Taiwan; however, the outfitting of components, fittings and quality control vary by the companies’ inspectors that are in the place when their run is being put through for their brand. That’s why the bolts fit the same between a Jet & a Powermatic, but maybe the blade guard is particular to one brand.
I have a Hammer 16″ J/P coming next month (11 month wait).
Nathan S
Honest question: if I only have a rare need to use a jointer, is there a reason to spring for a jointer (not to mention shop space and electric power requirements) versus using a router table with a straight bit?
Bill W
A router can only join the edges of a board, much like what you accomplish on a table saw with a jig. A jointer allows you to join the face of a board to achieve a flat and true surface.
Stuart
For small boards, I would consider spending the money on a good hand plane or two and sharpening stones, or a benchtop jointer if those rare projects will be very work-intensive.
With this jointer available to me now, all kinds of new and backburnered projects are going to be easier, even if it’s pushed aside most of the time.
OR for larger boards, you can build or buy a router sled for face jointing and a hand tool or router table for edge jointing.
I’ll be working with 8/4 (~2″) boards at least 54″ to 60″ in length. There’s no easy edge jointing that on a router table. Even hand jointing might be a chore.
Nathan S
Thank you, gentlemen.
Steven L
Stuart, hope you don’t mind me posting here after a year.
I am moving to a larger work space and now have room for a jointer. The 60HH is on my list; but, complaints about quality having dropped raise questions for me.
How is the jointer performing for you? Would you buy it again?
Many thanks