I’ve spent a large portion of the last two years testing tools, rearranging my shop to accommodate that testing, and working on home projects. It occurred to me that I hadn’t made anything for fun in way too long.
At the same time, I’ve seen different makers creating some beautiful mallets on my social media feeds, so I figured I’d construct one out of the library of wood scraps I have lying around. What better project could there be to showcase on ToolGuyd than the making of a tool?
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I decided on making a Carver’s mallet, because there isn’t any special joinery involved and it can all be done on the lathe. I didn’t have any plan for the mallet, just a general shape in mind. So before I ruined a nicer piece of wood, I made a quick prototype of the mallet head, to make sure it would work.
See Store-Buyable Wood Mallets, via Amazon
I created the head blank by cutting the corners off a scrap of 4×4, and then chucked it into my lathe. I first turned it into a completely smooth cylinder, and then I cut a pleasing taper into the blank. Finally, I rounded off the top and bottom.
Next, to drill the 3/4″ hole for the mallet handle, I had to change the way I mounted the mallet head in the lathe. To turn the head, I squeezed it between a spur center and a live center so both ends were secured. But for boring out the handle socket, I screwed the mallet head onto a face plate with a screw center and used a drill chuck to hold a Forstner bit.
With the test run successful, I turned my attention to wood selection for the “real” mallet head. I wanted a hardwood with some striking grain, so I chose a piece of Canary wood I purchased on a whim at Rockler. Once I glued up four pieces into a blank for the head, I knew I had made the right decision.
After waiting a day for the glue to fully cure, I chucked the Canary wood blank into the lathe. I mostly copied the prototype head, except I made the taper a little shallower. In other words, I thought the prototype head was a little too narrow on the bottom. In my mind I was trying to balance maximizing striking force and being able to hit a chisel straight on.
I was really pleased with the outcome, but I had a lot of trouble drilling the hole in the base for the handle. For some reason, I wasn’t able to thread the face plate into the top of the mallet head as I had done for the test piece; the screw just shaved the wood out of the hole rather than creating threads.
So to get the mallet head to spin so I could drill the hole on the lathe, I had to put an extra screw through the face plate into the top of the mallet head.
With just a little bit more sanding, I removed the cross grain scratches from sanding on the lathe. Then I cleaned the head with some mineral spirits to show how the grain would pop when it was finished. This also really made the long crack in the head stand out.
Somehow, one of the glue joints had separated slightly and created a shallow crack in the face of the mallet. If you look closely at the above photo, the crack is positioned right in the middle of mallet head, running from top to bottom. You can also see the extra hole I needed to get the head to spin while drilling the handle socket.
Cleaning the head with mineral spirits revealed another problem. I was originally going to turn the handle out of walnut, but I felt the walnut wouldn’t compliment the colors in the head. So instead I glued together a few scraps of Yellowheart, fitting in all 6 of my Bessey 6″ Clutch Clamps, to make the handle.
Before I turned the Yellowheart, I wanted to make a prototype handle from some scrap. Again, I had a shape in mind, but I wanted to be sure that it fit my hand well. I picked out a piece of 2×2 and created the above prototype handle. Satisfied with the general shape of the handle, I started shaping the Yellowheart blank.
I followed the general shape of the prototype handle, but I extended the base slightly and made the middle just a little thicker. Perceptive readers will notice that I used the Rockler Dust Right Lathe Dust Collection System (which I reviewed last December) for turning the handle. While it collects a lot of the dust, you can see that turning is still a messy business.
Also notice the Rockler Piston F-clamp in the photo above. This glueup didn’t require 2000 lbs of clamping force, but I haven’t found many uses for the piston clamps yet, so I’m using them any place I can.
After gluing the head on the handle of the mallet, I applied three coats of Minwax Tung Oil. (Strangely enough I don’t think it actually contains any tung oil.)
I think that the mallet turned out really well, and more importantly it made me excited to go down to my shop the few mornings it took to make. I haven’t struck any chisels with it yet, not that I’m afraid to damage it, I’m just happy to admire it for a little while longer. Plus, I have a perfectly functional prototype mallet to use too.
Sometimes you’ve got to go out and make something fun, and there’s something especially rewarding about making your own tools.
Nathan says
nice – I would love to have your lathe. oh and the space to have your lathe.
meanwhile that dust collector – would it help to have it closer in – and maybe have 2 of them. second one a bit lower down.
just a thought – never used one.
fred says
No lathe? Then you might make another traditional style mallet that has flat sides and angled striking faces. Several plans are out there on YouTube and Instructables – just Google “making a mallet.
Meanwhile – kudos to Ben for making his and suggesting this as a project.
Benjamen says
The problem with dust collection at the lathe is depending on the angle and tool the chips/shavings can go left, right , up , down or straight back towards you.
There are shields that almost totally enclose the work piece, but short of that you just try to catch as much as you can.
As for space, I don’t have a dedicated lathe stand. My lathe lives under my workbench and I pull it out when I want to use it (it’s not light though). I used to use it right on my workbench, but after I made my down draft table I made a special top to catch as much of the debris as I could.
Steve says
chip collection with woodturning is always a lost battle. one thing that can help are those cheap window blinds, the ones that are kind of accordion like, screw them to the ceiling around the lathe such that chips are contained when you are working, and can be retracted when you are done
BonPacific says
I’d be interested in hearing your thoughts on that lathe Benjamen. I can’t decide if it’s too cheap, or just cheap enough.
Have you used it much? Found any glaring problems?
Benjamen says
I’d worry more about tools. As long as you have something that can spin wood with a true and balanced head stock and ways to hold the wood securely, I don’t know if you can get too cheap. The tools and other attachments are going to cost you way more over the life of the machine.
When I bought this Rockler had it for $200 with the bed extension. I traded the bed extension for my friend with the same lathe and he machined me two carbide insert bit holders. All I had to do was buy the inserts and make handles. The holders are just a square piece of stock with a recess for the insert and a threaded hole. There’s no going back once you’ve stepped up to carbide tools.
When I bough this lathe, the Harbor Freight lathe was almost identical for cheaper. I’m not sure if it’s the same lathe anymore.
A few people have asked on my website about some broken parts on the tail stock, but I haven’t had any problems. I’m annoyed at having to change speeds and would love an variable speed motor. On a really cheap lathe, maybe if the Morse tapers weren’t ground properly there would be a problem.
I’ve made probably 50 different parts on this lathe. My only real issue is that I’m limited to the size of the project (diameter and length). I’ve made due though.
If you are looking for cheap lathe check out Matthias Wandel’s homemade lathe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCt3LooUVsQ
bobad says
You can make adapters to mount wooden or metal tail stock and tool rest on your floor mounted drill press. No motor or belt to mess with, and working vertical is easy to get used to.
Hilton says
Very cool indeed! Well done.
Travis says
I like this project. I have used a lathe for many, many hours before and I really miss turning shapes. There is something about making a useful tool yourself. You will definitely enjoy using it for future projects.
Well done.
Bolt says
Neat coincidence. I just got my first lathe (well it’s an old shopsmith so it’s not just a lathe) a week or so ago and I’ve been thinking of making a mallet next.
Yesterday I made a file handle when I was using the file and wishing it had a handle and then I realized I could just make one. It’s very fun and liberating being able to easily make stuff on a lathe. Now I’m sizing up every tree that needs pruning for bowls and spindle projects.
Yadda says
Benjamin,
Are you concerned with the strength of the glued blocks on the head of the mallet?
Benjamen says
Since I had never used it, I looked up canary wood on the wood database and they said it glued up well. I know there are some woods that are too oily or waxy and work better with other types of glue.
When I’ve glued wood correctly (had flat, well mating surfaces, made sure it’s spread evenly, clamped it tight but not too tight, and let it cure for long enough) it’s been my experience that the wood breaks before the glue. In this case one of the pieces was very slightly cupped, but I thought it would be okay if I clamped it tight enough to bend the wood.
And it was fine except there was the one small crack that formed when I was turning it. The more I think about it, the more I think it was a piece chipping out when I was rounding the blank than anything to do with the glueup.
I also don’t plan on walloping anything with it. Your really don’t need to hit a sharp chisel very hard anyway. It’s more of a series of sharp raps.
I am more worried about the connection between the handle and the head breaking, probably right at the shoulder of the peg, but I think it’s okay.
fred says
I sort of like Glen-Drake brass mallets for chisel and gouge work, With them the handle is more of a way to hold onto the head. Either was – as you say – it is more allowing a really sharp edge ( mirror-polished and honed – and don’t forget the back too) to do the work
bobad says
I saved a piece of white oak branch, which was still alive and green. I simply cut a piece, and turned it to fit my purpose. I rubbed it with antifreeze so it wouldn’t split as green wood usually does. I’ve used it for over 20 years. It has bruises on it, but it still looks great when I give it a quick sanding. Not a single split or check anywhere on it, and it’s plenty dense and hard for chiseling.