On top of regular ToolGuyd activities, I’m working on a couple of projects. The following are in different stages of planning and execution.
These are not typical DIY activities, but I hope you find this to be interesting.
Benchtop Mill
I have started working with my new benchtop mill. As you can see from this photo, I have a bunch of cleaning up to do. I cleared a hole so I could assemble the stand where it needs to be, and now need to find a place to put the lumber.
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Wire Rope Swaging
I have been working on a garden project – a trellis for certain veggies – and have been coming up short in trying to rework its design.
The way I want things built, wire rope is the most versatile solution. So, I finally gave in and dug into things.
I searched for USA-made swaging tools a few weeks ago, and didn’t have much luck. It’s not that I required swaging tools – the crimping tool – to be made domestically, but that I wanted to buy from an established brand.
I have been redesigning around not using wire rope for a few years, and so I have a good idea as to the types of projects it can be useful for. If I’m going to buy a swaging tool, it’s got to be a good one, as it won’t be a one-time tool.
Looking into it again, it seems that Loos & Co and Nicopress are the two main brands. Loos & Co seemed more easily available, and both brands’ tools work with their own and other’s compression sleeves.
There are other connection types than compression fittings that need to be crimped, such as bolt-tightenable clamps, and special plug-lock end terminations.
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Clamps are considered temporary and would be installed in a position they’d be difficult to tighten. I considered plug-lock terminations, but they’re expensive – $68 each for stainless steel ones, plus the need for an installation tool.
Swaging tools cost quite a bit up front – $200 and up – but allows for inexpensive fittings for creating strong looped ends.
This will be interesting.
Industrial Control Box Wiring
I’ve talked about terminal blocks before – DIN-Mounted Terminal Blocks – but a lot has changed in the industry since then. Well, a little has changed. These Phoenix terminal block with push-in connections and sensor-friendly wire connection setup looks to be compact and straightforward.
I’m planning out the electrical controls for my CNC conversion project, and an enclosure filled with DIN rails and terminal blocks is a good way to keep things neat and organized.
A block like this isn’t necessary, but will save a lot of space.
The most common terminal block makes a 1-1 wiring connection – a point where two wires meet. For instance, if you have a wire entering a control panel enclosure, it gets connected to where it needs to go, or to a terminal block. From the terminal block, it then connects to where it needs to go.
The terminal block shown here is a special one for 3-wire sensors. Three sensors could be connected via four terminal blocks and two jumper/bridge wires. One block brings in positive voltage (e.g. 24V) and common (0V), and jumpers distribute it to three other blocks. For the three sensor blocks, proximity sensors can each be connected to the separate positive, common, and signal ports. The last port takes the sensor signal to where it needs to.
Or, the simpler way to do things is to connect positive voltage (2 terminal blocks), common voltage (2 terminal blocks), and sensor signals (3 terminal blocks) separately. This would take 7 blocks and 2 jumper/bridge inserts (for the voltage distribution). Or, distribution blocks (such as Wago Lever Locks) can be used for positive and negative/0V connections, plus the 3 sensor signal blocks.
Four blocks seems more straightforward, but costs a bit more. There’s also one that has an LED to signal sensor activation, but it’s at considerably higher cost.
Three sensors can also be wired with 2 4-way blocks plus 3x double conductor blocks. That would be 5 terminal blocks vs 4.
Having a single sensor attached to a single block is elegant and allows for easier troubleshooting or replacement.
Do I overthink things? Absolutely. I’m not saying you should buy this, or that I will; it’s simply good to know what’s out there any why.
As this is my first time combining AC and DC in a single enclosure, I did some research into wiring color codes. There’s a lot more to look into, such as disconnect switches, a circuit breaker, and so forth.
How Square are Squares?
I have been looking for a good way to test squares for squareness, and cylindrical squares seem to be it.
There are other ways, such as a granite triangle, which takes up a lot more space on a surface plate, and metal squares that are known to be good.
The curved surface should make it easy to see and measure gaps.
This wasn’t the first thing I tried. At first I ordered an 4″ x 4″ x 6″ iron right angle bar from the same company, but when it arrived I realized it wasn’t flat enough to serve as a master square.
A reader put the idea in my head a while back. They complained to me that their square wasn’t square, and I saw the same with mine. But at the time the most I could do is compare several squares together. With this, I’ll be able to measure exactly how out-of-square a square is.
I ordered the 12″ online with a coupon, and am also looking for a good price on the 6″. I went with Suburban tool, partially because it’s made in the USA, and partially because few other brands make them. Fowler has 6″ and 12″ cylinders, but the 12″ isn’t available right now and the 6″ is too small.
Checking the squareness of triangular-shaped tools – and others – with a cylinder doesn’t seem very intuitive, but I can’t think of a better way.
The 12-inch cylinder is said to be square within 0.00015″, and the 6-inch 0.00010″.
At least ToolGuyd will be getting its money’s worth – the cylinder weighs 50 pounds and comes with a fitted wood case. The Fowler looks more user-friendly and has a useful-looking lifting handle.
Amazon has the Fowler 6-inch square in stock for $281, and I’d consider it. However, I doubt Amazon’s ability to ship something like that to me unscathed.
The 12-inch square might look silly next to smaller squares, but it should serve as a good squareness reference for shorter and longer tools all the same.
A shiny new Proto tool storage combo arrived.
I stacked everything up, but quickly decided that I would test the components separately. The top chest was placed on a workbench, and the bottom rolling cabinet will be used for heavy duty tool and part storage.
This is from the Proto Velocity series, their most affordable line of USA-made tool storage products. I have an older 540 series tool box, and this one is definitely better in some ways.
I’ll let you know how it goes.
And with that, a question – do you guys tip freight delivery drivers? I usually do, depending on the size and weight of the load.
Please let me know if you wish to learn more about any of the above topics.
Steve
I never thought of tipping a delivery driver like that. Some fun projects there to work on…
Stuart
It can take a bit of exertion to get up the driveway, even with my help, and some will take care to get a pallet in the garage.
If a driver shows up, drops a pallet, and races out of there before I can check for damage, that’s a bit different than the driver that calls ahead, handles my shipment with care, and places it gingerly in the garage.
I stress over most freight deliveries, and if a driver delivers an average or better drop-off experience, a tip seems justified. I’ll also usually offer a bottle of water, especially in hotter months.
With the mill, I paid a delivery/freight fee, a liftgate fee, and an “inside delivery fee”, otherwise it would have been simply left at curbside. A tip to the driver on top of that didn’t affect my total costs by much.
Sometimes I feel on the fence about it, but a lot of the time it’s clear when a tip is earned.
Albert
Out of curiosity, what would be considered a reasonable amount to tip?
Stuart
I don’t know, which is why it seemed interesting to bring up.
I’ll usually grab two 10’s and determine if one or both are justified. More recently, I’ve just been tipping $20, partly due to inflation, and partially because I consider ToolGuyd delivery tips to be a business expense. (Part of every tip would be lost to taxes anyway, and so I’m only really spending an extra 70 to 75 cents per dollar. In other words, the way I see it, it costs me $14 or $15 to tip $20.)
I’m usually very stressed about freight deliveries, and so if a driver helps with that, whether with a successful and pleasant delivery or very easy refusal, a tip is a good way to show my appreciation.
A retailer recently sent a sample for curbside delivery, and it would have been a pain for me to get it onto a dolly and up the driveway myself. They took the 2 minutes to bring it up the drive, and I made sure to tip.
When I came back with the cash, they were on the phone in the back of the truck complaining that I got the higher delivery package without paying for. I *do* upgrade delivery options when possible, but in this case the order was placed for me, and I didn’t have that option.
That driver was great, and seemed very appreciative. If that driver comes my way again, there’s a lower chance they’ll recognize my address and kick me to the bottom of the day’s delivery list, or worse.
A few years ago a driver essentially extorted me for a tip. They wanted to leave 6-foot garage-style cabinets at the curb, and I had no means to bring them up the driveway. So I tipped them a little more than I would have anyway, because refusing the curbside delivery would have been a bigger hassle.
The Proto driver had a motorized pallet jack, and I learned that it’s his personal one, with payments taken out of his paycheck every month. He was here a few months ago for a Craftsman delivery, and I don’t believe I tipped him then. This was a more stressful delivery, and so I tipped based on satisfaction rather than effort. I hope I get the same driver again, he was great about everything.
Steve
Good call Stuart – I’ll have to start keeping some cash around for just such an occasion…
Peter Fox
I went down wire rope and aircraft cable rabbit hole 8 years ago. I have set myself up with the full range of tooling and parts from 1/32″ to 5/16″. Honestly it really pretty easy once you decode a few things.
You are on the right path, Nicopress and Loos are both good quality. Its not worth wasting time on cheap crap when good parts and tools can be had for reasonable prices.
The first and most confusing hurdle is figuring out which tool is for which size. My experience is primarily with Nicopress and they use letters to code or designate which size a tool or groove in tool is intended for. Unfortunately they are not in any meaningful order. Here is a partial list of common sizes for oval or duplex sleeves.
B = 1/32″
B4 = 3/64″
C = 1/16″
G = 3/32″
M = 1/8″
P = 5/32″
X = 3/16″
F2 = 7/32″
F6 = 1/4″
G9 = 5/16″
Some stop sleeves use a size or two larger crimp groove some use others in between sizes. I thing some of the 3/32″ and 1/8″ stop sleeves I have use a “J” groove. In addition Nicopress makes a large range of products for overhead utility lines and similar so they have a fair number of crimp tools with different groove sizes that are not applicable for wire rope and aircraft cable.
If you you only need to do smaller sizes you probably want to look for the 64-CGMP tool as it will handle 1/16″, 3/32″, 1/8″ and 5/32″ these some up on eBay pretty often and can be had for $50 to $100 with a little patience. Otherwise single size tools are really common with most sizes up to 3/16″ easily available for around $50 or less. The big ones for the larger sizes are less common and usually more expensive. One advantage to using the single size tools is that they can also be used with the stainless oval sleeves, the multi size tool lack the strength and crimp force to properly compress the harder stainless sleeves.
There is not much risk buying used them used as they are really well designed an manufactured. Unless it is rusted solid or just plain beat to hell it isn’t they are not hard to clean up and adjust. basically you just adjust the tool until the finished crimp fits into the Nicopress GO gauge number 2930. Easiest place to get it is probably from McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/3377T13/
One additional reason I prefer Nicopress is the packaging for the sleeves has clear information on the size, correct tool numbers, number of crimp required for each of the tools, and which order to do the crimps if more that one is required.
Peter Fox
This catalog while a bit old is still quite relevant
https://archive.org/details/nicopress-catalog-no-4
Stuart
I decided to go with Loos partially because Nicopress’s website is so difficult to navigate, and I was having difficulty matching wire rope fittings to tool sizes.
Loos’s is much better in that regard.
I did slip up though – I quickly ordered the 1/8″ tool from Amazon, as they had the single-size version discounted by around $80 or so, before realizing that the 1/8″ tool corresponded to 5/32″stainless sleeves.
So I went with the 3/32″ as clearly shown on their website, as well as a multi-size tool and tin-plated copper sleeves to test.
McMaster has tin-plated copper and as well as black oxide copper, but I couldn’t find any information anywhere as to why one would with black oxide over tin-plated. Perhaps it’s only for color separation so that one doesn’t confuse tin-plated copper for aluminum.
The tools are all advertised as shipping with go/no-go gauges, or at least Loos’s are. McMaster’s site suggests they carry Nicopress tools, and they specific gauges are included with the tools.
I’m curious about both brands’ informational materials, and so I ordered parts from both. Amazon carries Loos at competitive pricing, Zoro has them individually instead of in say 5- and 10-count packages, and McMaster presumably has Nicopress in typical-to-them package counts.
I figured that if there’s a lot of interest in the content surrounding this exploration, I’ll add a Nicopress tool (maybe the supersized one) to the mix for brand variety.
Thank you also for the letter code. I had been wondering how to match VM/VG ferrule sizes to particular tools.
I picked up U-bolts, eye screws, small shackles (which I can always use if even not for this), turnbuckles with clevis attachments, and 1/8″ stainless steel rope in 7×7 configuration and 7×19 with red vinyl coating.
I couldn’t seem to find much on how to strip the vinyl coating though. I opted for vinyl over nylon given its higher-advertised UV resistance for outdoors use.
This is why I like McMaster Carr. A lot of times they have a no-frills approach, but they provide high-level information needed to help steer a decision.
I’m hoping the 7×7 still wraps around the thimble, but that’ll be part of the learning process.
There were discrepancies in the literature I found online. Apparently Nicopress 1/8″ stainless sleeves require 1 crimp, and Loos requires 2. Both should adhere to the same standards, and so I’m hoping the packaging cards sort that out. I’ll know tomorrow.
fred
We had quite a number of tools from Loos – their Cableware division and their Locoloc brand. I don’t ever recall any complaints.
I have personally used their cable tension gauges (PT-CR, PT-1, PT-2, Pt-3). Here’s a link to one:
https://www.amazon.com/Loos-Co-Professional-Hands-Free-Tensioning/dp/B001ESYZ1C
Koko The Talking Ape
“…how to strip the vinyl coating…”
I’m no rigging pro, but this doesn’t seem difficult. If you don’t have a cable stripper with plastic or soft metal blades that’s large enough, you can improvise a knife made from plastic or some other soft-ish material, like an old credit card. You don’t want to use a steel tool, because that will nick the cable and create a potential failure point.
Folks who know more, does this sound right?
Once I had to strip a hair-thin electrical wire, so I used a wedge made of scrap wood. Worked fine.
Stuart
I might try a hot wire in a well-ventilated space.
I’m not so much concerned about how to strip the wire rope myself, but knowing how it’s *properly* done.
Wayne R.
That list of sizes is nuts. Can it be avoided by going metric?
Peter Fox
I agree that the current Nicopress site and information is a bit substandard. I suspect that most of their markets and customers just have enough institutional knowledge that it doesn’t really matter. From what I remember when digging in years back it seemed that Nicopress (Div of National Telephone Supply) was more common in small aviation, theatrical rigging and utility/overhead markets where Loos seemed to be marketed more toward the sail boat and recreational maritime application.
Regarding sleeve materials and platings. Aluminum are the low cost option for use in non critical applications. If i remember correctly they a slightly lower strength than the typical MBS of standard cable. Plain copper are used with galvanized cable in dry environments when full strength is needed and can potential be used in overhead lifting application when properly inspected/tested. Zinc plated copper is used with galvanized in outdoor and wet applications. Tin plated copper or solid stainless are used with stainless cable. I suspect that black oxide copper sleeves are probably intended for theatrical use when you want a non shiny option. I know ZFX Flying has black cable and thimbles for theatrical flying application. https://zfxflying.myshopify.com/ They also have a really nice GO gauge that has openings for identifying cable and sleeve sizes https://zfxflying.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/zfx-o-gauge
For stripping a combination of shaving a section of the jacketing off with a sharp knife and then peeling the rest of or using a basic electrical wire stripper works well. I would recommend either dedicating or using a stripper you don’t care about as steel and stainless steel are much harder on the sharp edges of the stripping holes. Vinyl will definitely outlast nylon in an outdoor setting. I usually only use coated cable in applications where it will be handled by people and want a more hand friendly finish.
I suspect that 1/8″ 7×7 stainless is going to be less than fun to bend around a thimble. Even most of the 3/32″ that I have is 7×19. You might even be outside the recommended cable configuration for 1/8″ sleeves. My Nicopress 28-3-M sleeve package only lists 7×19 not 7×7 on it. While it will absolutely work on 7×7 a single sleeve may not be sufficient to achieve the full strength of the cable. In you use it should not matter however I have heard that Nicopress can be contacted for engineering information regarding non standard application.
Regarding tool and sleeve interchangeability. As far as I can tell sleeve size and length are standardized and should be interchangeable. The number of crimps required should be based on the tool used. Nicopress has all of the relevant information on the package which is nice as it is less likely to get lost that an instruction sheet included with a crimper. I did buy some Loos brand sleeves from Amazon at one point and they came in a bag that only had a part number, it was not even marked with a size. I will gladly pay more for clearly marked packaging with important specifications included. It makes remembering what goes with what much easier if you don’t use it everyday.
Stuart
Loos:
They don’t reference the stainless sleeves.
McMaster’s specs listed 7×7, 7×19, and 7×19 IWRC.
Loos lists 3 crimps for copper and aluminum sleeves on 1/8″ cable. I can’t find it now, but I believe I saw reference to 2 crimps for Loos and McMaster lists 1 compression for what I believe are Nico stainless steel sleeves.
If the 7×7 is too stiff, McMaster is good about returns. I have something else to go back, if I need to I’ll combine them to save on return shipping.
For the application I have in mind, a bit of stiffness will be a good thing.
Robert
Stuart, I do tip freight delivery, and for all the reasons you mentioned, white glove service. Usually $20 per person. But if they really had to hump it, I up it to $40. To me it’s to incentivize and thank good service. Same for other types of service. So it really gets my goat (not the greatest of all time meaning) when restaurants impose the tip on you. I want to control “extra” for good service. Otherwise, it’s just a tax placed on you without representation. I would fight it, but my wife doesn’t want me to make a scene. My dad was a waiter so I rarely stiff a waiter, and when I do I explain why I didn’t leave a tip. Yes, if wife is around I just leave a very small tip. Another brick coming down in what was a great state, trying to decouple cause and effect.
Gary
Hi Stuart, I would be very interested to know … in what ways is the Proto Velocity series better than the older 540 series?
Stuart
It’s larger and has soft-close drawer slides.
Construction seems good, but there are a couple of issues with burs at very specific locations of the drawers, which could be a fluke issue.
The casters roll like butter. For that reason I’ll be testing the roller cabinet as a mobile unit and the chest has been moved to a workbench.
MM
I generally don’t tip delivery drivers, but that’s not because I’m a tightwad, it’s because either:
a) all they did was idle the truck for 30 seconds while I unloaded with my forklift
or
b) I hired a professional rigging service so they’re already being well paid for the work they are doing.
Those few occasions where I had a delivery driver help with moving things when I didn’t have a forklift or they really went above and beyond with their service? I have tipped in those situations.
Bob
might be a little late to the conversation, but, regarding your trellis / cable job, how’s about a hanger product tinners are using?
‘gripple’
https://www.gripple.com/en-us/products/building-services/standard-hanger/
there’s quite a few ‘termination’ selections. i was interested when tinners on the job were using them.
(i have no affiliation with that company, feel free to delete if the link is against the rules)
Stuart
I need the wire rope to span horizontally with twine hangers to be repositioned anywhere along the length.
fred
I’m more familiar with using gripples to secure tensioned wire fencing. I’ve used them around the property constructing enclosures and trellises. Their tensioning device was $55 when I bought it 12 years ago:
https://www.amazon.com/Gripple-Torq-Tensioner-Trellis-Fencing/dp/B00QMTMHNG
Koko The Talking Ape
The discussion on swaging tools has been fascinating to read. I’ve used 1/16″ cable for furniture projects (to serve as anti-racking bracing on bookshelves, etc., instead of a full back panel. It’s handy if you want the piece to knock down.) I’ve “crimped” the ferrules with diagonal pliers, which is strong enough for that purpose (apparently.)
fred
Quite a few years ago, cable railings became all the rage in one of the areas we were working. Although they had a dramatic look, I did not see them as particularly practical and always wondered about safety compared to more traditional rail/baluster designs. I was advised that properly spaced and tensioned they were safe for little tykes – and we installed them according to code and manufacturer guidelines for spacing, tensioning, post and guardrail sizing etc. They always seemed to pass inspection – but I would still not choose them for myself or family – maybe just a bit of over-thinking on my part. We also installed quite a few railings with tempered glass panels. These too had a different look – going well with beach houses – but perhaps less so with houses like mine that look out over lawns, gardens and trees.
Stuart
I’ve seen DIYers recommend crimping compression sleeves with bolt cutters, but I wanted to do things right.
fred
I suppose crimps can be not deep enough, too deep or just right. With an automated full-cycle tool there may be some assurance of the quality of the crimp – assuming the tools is calibrated correctly and working right. Otherwise, you might use a go-no-go gauge. But I’m not sure if the go-no-go crip gauges tell you if the crimp is too deep.
When we were building components for aircraft the consequences of an imperfection could be very serious. Building a home bookcase probably poses less risk as long as a failure mode does not include the possibility of crushing a toddler.
Koko The Talking Ape
Exactly. In my applications (diagonal bracing), the cable doesn’t undergo any steady, critical load. IF you nudge the bookshelf sideways, the cable resists that, but the task of simply holding the bookshelf up is left to other members (i.e., pieces of wood.)
Years ago I did make a bookshelf where the cable did experience a critical load. It had an 8′ wide span supported only at the ends, and the shelf material was 3/8″ plywood. I ran steel cable from one end to a spacer in the middle and back to the other end, forming a very wide, short triangle with the apex pointing down. The spacer carried the cable in bolts in an oversize hole, with nuts to move the nuts up and down.
Turns out cable stretches under load, unlike chain. I had to tighten the nuts a few times over several weeks to take out the sag.
And then it worked fine. Under load, the cable was very taut indeed, enough to make me nervous when I looked at it. And the structure was strong but not very stiff; it would bounce a little. The load (all books) was enough to make the plywood itself compress lengthwise. When I took the books off, the shelves bowed up into the air like an archer’s bow. But I got an enormous amount of storage out of minimal materials. 🙂
Koko The Talking Ape
Sure, and for your application, doing it “right” might be very important.
It strikes me that bolt cutters might not be the right tool even for DIY projects, because they’re TOO powerful. Of course, that will depend on the size of the cable, the loads, etc. For my work, a bolt cutter might shear through the sleeve (which I call “ferrule,” but it seems that’s the wrong term.)
Short of a calibrated and precise (highly repeatable) tool, I wonder if it would be enough to simply squeeze the sleeve flatter in a vise or with a hand sledge. Maybe then, all you’d need to know is whether you’ve flattened the sleeve enough, and the particular means would be immaterial.
Chris
I would love to have a milling machine and a metal lathe. But I have no good space to put one. I have a workshop but it’s full of woodworking tools and I don’t want sawdust all over machining tools. Not that I could have them anyway because I still wouldn’t have space in my shop for them 😭
Stuart
At some point, once the conversion is complete, I’ll build an enclosure to help keep metal chips in and sawdust out.
If I want to add a lathe – which I do – I’ll have to solve my space issue first as well.
You can always go small – there are some benchtop metal lathes that can be placed out of the way on a shelf and brought out when needed.
But the problem with metal lathes is that even smaller ones have a sizable footprint.
Koko The Talking Ape
Maybe you could curtain off the metal working tools? There are several systems to do that. I think Rockler has one.
jake
What did you use to lift and lower your bench top mill into place?
It would be interesting and helpful to learn more about some lifting options and trade-offs that you have used or considered over the years.
jake
I am curious how your project will unfold. Have fun with your new baby mill (grin) and thank you for any info you can share.
In the picture it looks like it’s hanging from a mobile “shop crane” or “engine hoist”. Do you own or did you rent the lifter?
Do you have any preference(s) for lifting heavy things like this to bench height by yourself?
Stuart
Sorry – I missed your question the first time.
It’s a Harbor Freight 2-ton shop crane. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-58755.html
I didn’t buy it, it’s a review sample.
I looked into renting, but there aren’t any good options in my area. I wasn’t sure which to buy, and didn’t quite trust Harbor Freight, so I requested a test sample from my PR contact.
It’s very decent – I used it a few times already. I ordered the slings from elsewhere.
I have creatively lifted heavy equipment with an automotive jack and sawhorses. One time I built a gantry with a pulley and rope. I bought a winch that I never really used due to mounting complexities.
This worked perfect.
I want to pick up a leveler as well.
The user manual for the mill outlined exactly how to prep for lifting with a shop crane, and where to put the slings (which I previously purchased separately).
An alternative would have been to disassemble the mill and move it in pieces.
Even with the crane, it was a bit tricky to position the mill perfectly. I had my wife hold a 2×4 in position to help prevent the mill from rotating. A second person is recommended, but I worked slowly and carefully.
I tend to plan things out, but sometimes things don’t work out as smoothly. I also recently purchased a cabinet-style table saw, and the crane didn’t work perfectly for that. A person whose strength matched my own might have helped me make quicker work of things.
I also look online for tips.
For instance, I had to lift up my drill press head to install it to its column. That’s what I used my DIY gantry for. After, I read online that it’s easier to attach everything horizontally on the ground and then pivot the drill press to the vertical position.