I started buying Rayovac alkaline batteries a couple of years ago, starting around 2014 when I came across a holiday promo and posted about. Rayovac claims that their batteries last as long as Duracell.
Some batteries were made in the USA, others in China. I sought out the ones with made-in-USA packaging. I bought more Rayovac batteries the following year, and more again the year after that.
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Almost every year now, I buy multi-packs or bulk packs of Rayovac batteries. They are made in the USA and had decent pricing.
I like using rechargeable batteries in some devices, but don’t really want to put pricey NiMH cells in kids toys. Rayovac’s disposable alkaline batteries worked well enough at good pricing, or so I thought.
I still have a couple of packs around the house, with expiration dates ranging from 2024 to 2028. I have a couple of dozen “fresh” Rayovac batteries.
But I am NEVER BUYING RAYOVAC BATTERIES AGAIN. (Or at least not for the foreseeable future.)
Maybe 18 months ago, batteries started leaking. A kids toy here, a flashlight there. Some were easily cleaned, others not so much. I still have a kids toy in the garage that needs to be very thoroughly cleaned, and two penlights that are out of commission.
A couple of months ago, I had to throw out some Rayovac batteries because some of them leaked and corroded in their packaging. The printed expiration date was still years away. Maybe it was a defective batch? Maybe the batteries were somehow short-circuited? I didn’t trust those batteries and discarded them.
A couple of weeks ago, I came across MORE Rayovac batteries that leaked right in their packaging. These batteries are supposed to have a 10-year storage life guarantee. This is an unopened package!!
Are you kidding me?
Two weeks ago, our TV remote stopped working. That’s weird, I changed the batteries a couple of months ago. The Rayovac batteries had leaked.
The other day, my kids’ Lego Duplo train stopped working properly. I checked the batteries. The Rayovac batteries had leaked.
I have a battery pack on my desk that I use with electronics projects. It has a physical switch, which was toggled to “off.” The leads also weren’t connected to anything and were separate. I checked it, just in case, as I had not used it recently. Rayovac batteries with a November 2024 expiration, lightly used, had leaked.
I checked the remote to my Lego train set. I bought the set in July 2018, and used the remote every now and then since then. The batteries were fresh and the last I used the remote everything was working well.
The batteries leaked in the device, corroding some of the terminals.
I’ve had Rayovac batteries leak inside two penlight flashlights and two keychain flashlights. I don’t remember the brand, but they were likely Rayovac because that’s the predominant alkaline battery brand I’ve been using for just about five years. I was perplexed, wondering how there could have been vampiric drain or other unusual behavior. Were the batteries being over-depleted? What was going on?
Luckily, I use Duracell Professional batteries for many ToolGuyd-related test products or equipment, and I don’t remember experiencing any leaky cells with that brand.
When my parents moved a few years ago, we went through boxes of toys that were stored in their shed and I discovered several toys that still had batteries, and they still worked! Toys that I hadn’t seen for at least 15 years still worked, despite being left in a non-insulated shed.
But here, I have Rayovac batteries that leak in remote controls, battery packs, kids toys, flashlights, and even in unopened factory packaging?!
The first couple of times these batteries leaked, I blamed the devices. Maybe they were draining batteries and over-depleting the cells, or something to that effect.
But now, I’m convinced it’s the batteries. They’re stored in different places in the house, such as in a cabinet in my office, in a box in the basement, in a kitchen cabinet, and in a drawer in the heated and air conditioned garage. They’re all kept in room temperature conditions.
I had other brands of batteries leak before, but on rare occasions. But what’s happening with these Rayovac batteries? It’s just absurd!
Most if not all of my Rayovac batteries have been purchased from Home Depot or Lowes, and all of the packs I’ve purchased since 2014 were made in the USA.
At this point I have zero faith in Rayovac. I asked them why this could be happening, but they never responded. I provided some serial numbers and they sent me some packs of replacement batteries.
I used Duracell and Duracell Pro batteries prior to Rayovac, and I’ll be going back to them. I also use Energizer Lithium cells, but I probably won’t buy Energizer alkaline batteries anymore either. Energizer purchased Rayovac in early 2019. What if Energizer-branded batteries start coming out of the same factories and lines that make Rayovac batteries? I’m not taking that chance.
I’m just so mad about all this. I have experienced so many more leaky Rayovac batteries in the past year or two than with all other brands in the past 15-20 years combined.
There’s no common factor by which I could blame the leaky batteries on anything but Rayovac.
I’m not storing the batteries in direct sunlight or elevated temperatures. The batteries aren’t being left unused for long periods of time. Sure, some of the devices are not being used daily, but they’re not being shelved for long periods of time. I never mix new and old cells.
I no longer trust Rayovac batteries, and I don’t trust their “10 year storage life guarantee.” I won’t use them in kids toys, flashlights, or really anything anymore. How can I? I’m tired of cleaning out battery compartments, and I’m tired of Rayovac-powered devices unexpectedly failing to work properly.
I’m going back to Duracell.
All of the headaches that Rayovac batteries have given me are nowhere near the money I saved.
Maybe somehow I’ve been unlucky. Or maybe there are unknown factors at play. Maybe this failure rate is due to… I just don’t know. Did Rayovac redesign their batteries with weaker seals than in previous years? Did they make some other change to save production costs on the bulk packs I like to buy during holiday season promos?
All I know is that I’ve experienced an unacceptably high number of Rayovac battery failures and leaks in the past year or two, and I’m done with the brand, at least until they can explain the situation.
ToolGuyDan says
The ones that survived 15 years, were they alkaline, or “heavy duty” (zinc chloride)?
In any event, I’ve switched over to Kirkland for frequently-swapped batteries (paintball), Lithium for (even potentially) lifesaving equipment, and Energizer MAX for everything else.
I’d happily pay 2x the cost for a battery with up to 10% less capacity but that literally can’t leak unless punctured. I want less marketing and more chemistry and engineering, please.
Stuart says
My parents typically bought Duracell or Energizer alkaline batteries, whichever the wholesale club carried when it was time for a resupply.
Vards Uzvards says
Energizer Bunny never stops, remember?!
I used to buy Duracell Coppertops mostly, but a few years ago switched to Energizer (probably because it’s easier to find these on Amazon). First I tried fancier new things – Advanced and Ultimate Lithium, but then settled on MAX Alcaline – https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004U429AQ/ – and have no complaints whatsoever.
Adam says
Kirkland batteries are Duracell batteries, that’s why they are rated #1 for performance to cost. So I have no issues using them if I’m out of eneloops.
Also, Stuart have you attempted to have Rayovac replace any of the damaged items? Maybe more so to give feedback on the process.
When I still had an insulin pump, I could easily tell when not using a quality battery. Almost half the battery life, and when you got to the low battery warning, an Energizer/Duracell would go a couple more days, and cheap-o’s a day maybe a little longer.
Only leaks I can recall are from Rayovac, and one set of Duracells in all the years I can recall
PeR says
I had Rayovac send me a $20 check for a 2D Maglite that the batteries leaked in. Considering I only paid $10 for it, I wasn’t too upset. This was probably 10 years ago.
Benjamen says
You know I had heard that Kirkland batteries were Duracell too, so I started buying Kirkland batteries.
That was a huge mistake. Pretty much everything I’ve used them in has been damaged by them leaking. And not just things that drain the battery slowly, but with real on/off switches that disconnect the battery.
I know I’m not the only one with this issue. Google “Krikland batteries leak”
I still buy the Duracell batteries from Costco and do not have the same problem with the real branded Duracells.
Max Musial says
I was going to suggest Kirkland Batteries. I’ve seen several people doing testing and they seem to be the best.
JP says
Please Rechargables! 🌎
Tom says
Similar experience. I liked their packaging and promo pricing, but stopped buying after a number of leaks.
Duracell Procells have treated me well for decades. Have had fine luck with Costco Kirkland and Amazon Basics lately too.
DHCrocks says
I don’t know….about Duracell either. I have had serveral Duracells leak in the past two years. Totally destroyed a radio, several flashlights and a clock. In the flash light (maglight), I could not even remove the battery, it had swelled and corroded it self into the aluminum tube. If its an application where its an expensive item or that is seldom used and just sitting on the shelf for a long time I have switched to using Energizer Ultimate Lithium. I have not heard of these batteries leaking.
Tim D. says
Duracell is supposed to cover the replacement of any items damaged by their batteries. I haven’t tried to get them to cover any items, but I have had them send me vouchers for free batteries to cover leaky ones.
Thom says
Rayovacs leak for mt too, I’ve had to replace a couple of remotes because of it. Now I use Duracell.
Roy says
I had Duracells leak and they sent me a check to cover the damage to the electronics.
Scott P Wisniewski says
Kirkland batteries are leakers also. I now purchase only Duracell. Have hade many leakers in the Costco Kirkland brand.
Tim D. says
I’ve had a lot of issues with Duracell’s leaking as well, and a few kirkland batteries too. The Duracells I’ve had issues with are all well within the use by dates printed on the package and batteries
Albert says
Rayovac ruined my Palm Pilot from back in the day. I switched to Duracell and that ruined a Mag Lite. I switched to Energizer and that ruined a Sony remote. I think all alkaline batteries leak. Supposedly the non-rechargeable lithium batteries (eg. CR123A) don’t leak, but I don’t know for sure.
Chris says
Only disposal battery I use is Duracell. Rayovac is junk, energizer don’t last, and leak in my experience… Duracell or Duracell quantum are the only batteries I use
db11 says
Stuart — I understand that you’re piseed , but what do you expect? It’s typical of our purchasing reasoning: I’ll save this money over proven brand/solution and get the same thing… but there’s no free lunch.
Plus, FFS why are people still using disposable batteries? There’s no excuse and you, in particular know better: it’s the same thing as thinking that there’s real economy in buying cheaper tools over higher-quality ones. False. The only savings is the day of the purchase — the costs are just distributed differently than for buying the proper quality in the moment of choice.
Here’s what you should buy, and nobody can tell me that replacing dozens or hundreds of cheap disposables is a more rational buying decision than these (or equivalent):
https://www.newegg.ca/fujitsu-4-pack-aa-ni-mh-batteries-rechargeable-batteries-aa/p/N82E16817109007?Item=N82E16817109007
Stuart says
That’s 4 batteries for $20. A TV remote that goes through batteries once a year doesn’t need $10 in rechargeable cells. Although, aome brands do offer low-drain cells at lower prices and I opted for that this time around.
One of my kid’s toy cars takes 4 batteries and they all have screw-down compartments. It’s still on the first set of batteries after more than a year. Using rechargeable batteries for that just doesn’t make sense, especially since they have a ton of toys like that.
Rechargeable batteries sound better on paper, but for a lot of applications alkaline batteries might play out better.
Altan says
I don’t mind to pay more for rechargeable batteries to use in everything. I have never seen them leaking. But I had bad experiences with Duracell batteries in the last 3-4 years. Before Duracell batteries were the best for ages, but not anymore, I have not seen Energizer batteries leaking at all, my friend uses them a lot and he never complained to me, also. I don’t want to waste my time cleaning my kids toys, remote controls and etc. because of leaking batteries, plus crystalized looking particles fall around always and I don’t know if these are OK. I have not read about it at all, maybe it is the time to read now…
MC says
Can you even get a direct replacement tv remote if the batteries leaked out bad?
You have a couple dead penlights. $10 for those rechargeable cells seems like they would make sense whether you paid 5 or 35 for the lights, because you would still have the working lights and batteries.
With kids toys, if you’re not expecting to replace them often if ever, that is where lithiums go. Greater capacity and shelf life could make it one and done. You know you’re already having leaks. If they’re in your house in 5yrs, how many of them do you think will be leaking wherever they got left?
So… yeah I’ve been done with alkaline for a while now
Stuart says
The battery pack I threw away because its cost (maybe $1.50) wasn’t worth the headache of cleaning it. But for toys and remotes, I clean them and they *should* be fine.
Replacement TV remotes should be available. FIOS sells replacement cable box remotes, Denon referred me to a 3rd party parts department when my remote’s volume buttons stopped working (but the price was crazy and so I never fixed it). I would imagine that TV brands would be able to supply replacement remote controls for recent model years. For older TVs, universal remotes might be an option.
For penlights, they’re damaged, but workable. They’re not sold anymore, and so if I contacted Rayovac they would reimburse with what they thought is fair market value, which is unspecified.
Those things now have rechargeables. But take toy lightsabers for example. We have three of them. So that would tie up ~$30 in batteries?
You can’t exactly unscrew, load, and then screw the battery compartments of toys every time kids’ play preferences change. So that’s a lot of batteries, most of which are not changed often.
Ikea Ladda bateries (made in Japan the last time I checked and presumed to be Eneloop) are $7 for 4. I also have some lower drain and less expensive ones that cost less. So I guess I’ll get more of those this week, for things like toy trains or higher-valued items.
But there are still plenty of devices that still need alkaline batteries, either due to economics or for proper functionality. Lithium cells can be very pricey. Right now they’re 8 for $12 on Amazon. During holiday seasons, I bought maybe 60 Rayovac alkalines for around
that amount.
These experiences are pushing me to switch some more devices to NiMH cells, but I still need reliable alkaline batteries.
Ren says
IKEA Ladda’s are made by FDK (Fujitsu) out of an ex Sanyo Eneloop factory in Japan.
When Panasonic purchased Sanyo, they sold the factory off to avoid monopoly type complaints.
Ron says
You’re not taking into account the cost of destroyed devices and inconvenience. Plus, what’s the environmental damage of all these battery’s in the landfill?
And yes, I’ve had many Duracell’s leak, too, even if they were left in the device beyond expiration dates.
Altan says
Great comment!
Altan says
Definitely there is no free lunch…
Any brand becomes famous after a few years starts to abuse the name.
Fazal Majid says
The phenomenon has a name, “quality fade”.
Fazal Majid says
Amen. Eneloop (or nowadays the made-in-Japan Fujitsu) is the only brand of battery one should buy.
Ron says
Long live Enloops!
Frank D says
Guess what – very long time Duracell only user here – Duracell does not live up to their brand name any more.
It was the only battery anyone ever really trusted in the family or work space … and in the past ten years I have thrown AA Duracells out unused in package with a promised shelf life of 8-10 years into the future because some leaked in the package … and I had some corrode in the flashlight, radio or sensor they were installed in. Never had it with them since a young bloke, but not it even happens with Duracell. Similarly, the 12v replacement battery in my primary mower failed < 12mo. The car and alarm battery seem ok, knock on wood.
Anyhow, I am starting to suspect that Duracell now is not what they were 25 years ago and start to look like they upsell rebranded outsourced whatever batteries from whichever factory.
db11 says
P.S. I have used both Panasonic and Fujitsu rechargeable batteries exclusively for over 5 years and I’ve never had a single leak in any device.
Tim D. says
I don’t much care for rechargeable batteries, but the Sanyo eneloops (now Panasonic I believe) are incredible. I’ve got some old logitech mice that still have the original battery and they still charge and work almost as well as the day they were bought like 7-8 years ago.
PB says
I invested in enloops and they have so far been a dream come true.
I have tons of kids stuff. You aren’t just paying for expensive batteries in a cheap toy. When that toy is done, you just put those straight into the replacement toy.
The time for holding a charge is amazing. So far I’ve used them on an electronic zwave deadbolt for perhaps the last few months. No recharge needed yet. Roku remotes, kids led lanterns, and even the magic trcks cars.
The lanterns are what’s truly paying them off.
I’d add in that fry’s batteries leak too.
the only non rechargeable batteries I buy are Energizer Lithium.
Bruce says
I’m seconding Duracells not being much better the last few years. We have a lot of test equipment that gets used once or twice a year in our shop. Most of them require some kind of basic disposable battery. I’ve switching to 100% lithium cells in these devices because even a short single use will leave me cleaning out the battery compartment next time I need to use them. It’s sad really.
Travis says
Agreed. Duracells have gone way, way down hill. We use a lot of batteries on our farm and I can show you packs of Duracell batteries that have leaked before use (only a few months old.) I even sent them some pictures of them but they don’t seem to care. We have had better performance with the Rayovacs (red.)
Chris S says
Some may find “Project Farms” videos on batteries to be useful.
I think there are 3 videos on batteries so far.
Brian M says
This video also backed up what I told Stuart on IG; The red/silver Rayovac are the good Rayovac batteries, the blue ones are terrible.
I used to be a Duracell person but I started getting a lot of poor performing and leaky batteries.
Enloopes outperform everything but I only use them for things that need somewhat frequent changes…never had one go bad and have been using them since they were Sanyo branded. They seem to last as long as any other battery and never leak.
JML says
Lithiums don’t leak and work in temperature extremes that exceed the capabilities of alkaline cells. I will never buy any alkaline cell again. I just tossed a bunch of year-old Duracells that were stored in a battery case where several AA and C batteries leaked. For equipment using AA, AAA, and 9V batteries, the more-expensive lithiums are worth the peace of mind (and not having to deal with ruined equipment and warranty claims).
Stuart says
I’ve read the same. I use lithium in things like household or auto LED flashlights, but NiMH and lithium cells aren’t economical for a lot of ehat I use alkaline cells for.
RandyM says
A couple years ago I had a similar experience…enough is enough. I threw away some really nice flashlights because of bursting batteries. I started researching good’ol copper tops only to learn of the horrible state of deception the internet has brought with it. Knock-offs have saturated the marked. Not only are they expensive, but now I have to be a detective to know if it is genuine…no thanks. I took a dive into the realm of recharges. Tenergy got my money and I have not regretted it. It was an expensive transition at first, but now nearly every battery using device in the house has Tenergy batteries.
I’m going on three years since my first purchase and have NEVER HAD A SINGLE PROBLEM. Just to list a few devices: wii motes, xbox controllers, motion lights through the house, remotes, kids toys (thomas is a hog), all flashlights, on and on. It varies greatly how often they need charged, but every time they go back into the charger i feel like I’m money ahead. Can’t say enough how much I am hooked.
Only occasionally do I find something that complains not having a true 1.5v, and those things I just hold my breath for the inevitable battery rupture.
db11 says
Obviously not going to change Stuart’s mind on rechargeables, but for others looking for the best value/quality on lower drain rechargeable, these Fujitsu’s are identical spec to Eneloop with 2000mAhr/2100 recharge cycles at $3/battery.
…also the 2550 mAhr/500 cycles batteries are $4 / ea. (my previous link was to newegg.ca, so in CDN$5 .00 / USD$4.00 https://www.newegg.com/fujitsu-4-pack-aa-ni-mh-batteries-rechargeable-batteries-aa/p/N82E16817109007
Stuart says
I have a LOT of rechargeables and definitely encourage their use for many things.
But for things like toys that go a year or two or longer without needing replacement batteries? Why pay $4 per cell for batteries that might very rarely need to be recharged? $16 in batteries for each $5 to $15 toy will get out of hand fast.
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/ladda-rechargeable-battery-20303874/ are what I put in my remote once the batteries leaked. But I only have a few of those and Ikea doesn’t seem to sell them anymore. They’re half the price of the regular higher-capacity cells and less expensive than Eneloop.
Those? I might put those in toys, but $1/cell is still a lot for certain devices.
There’s also “Eneloop Lite,” but I can never find them anywhere.
Anson says
Leaking batteries ruining battery compartments and devices is why we made the effort to go all eneloop. Yes, we make the effort to clean the unit with vinegar and alcohol.
For toys/devices that may be hard to replace (tv remote), I’ll use eneloop.
If the toy is a throwaway then I use the duracell procell units.
If the device is expected to be used in wet conditions or camping, I’ll use durcell and take the batteries out afterwords.
We use ammo boxes to hold batteries, each cell gets an individual spot, if they leak only that battery is ruined. They cost $2-$5 to hold 50 batteries.
Typically lithium are half the cost of eneloop which means if I recharge it once we win.
We only buy the packs of batteries that give us the best $/cell cost which means we’re typically at $1.80 to $2.15 per cell. Typically the 12 or 18 count.
Our average cost between the devices we recharge a lot and the devices we don’t is still better than the cost of alkaline or lithium.
db11 says
Oops! Forgot the first link for the 2000mAhr/2100 cycle batteries: https://www.newegg.com/fujitsu-4-pack-batteries-rechargeable-batteries-aa/p/N82E16817109004
Brian says
Similar experience. I used Rayovac for years, and liked their promo pricing, but stopped buying after a number of leaks. I think they changed the design.
Steve says
The only batteries I have known to never have leaked for me are also the Energizer Ultimate Lithium ones. Those are probably built to a much higher standard because lithium leaking out would be really bad. Problem is, you’re right, they’re too expensive to put in everything.
Vards Uzvards says
IKEA-branded (made by Varta, AFAIR) are cheap and reasonably good batteries.
Alpha Kale says
All,
A common issue for Leaky Batteries that have exploded inside Electronics, which leave white corrosion on the Battery +/- Contacts what is the best and safe way to clean it off? Is there a special solution to use, or is there a product even available that’s in a package of wipes to buy?
Thanks!
TimS says
I have absolutely stopped using *any* brand of alkaline batteries in anything of value (e.g., anything other than Harbor Freight giveaway LED lights).
They *all* leak and fail: Rayovac, Duracell, EverReady, Costco’s Kirkland (among the worst) … they all will leak and fail. About 10% to 20% of the batteries, over say a year, in my experience.
Have had leaky cells ruin flashlights, test equipment like multimeters, radios, you name it. About 18 months ago, went thru our emergency kits for the yearly checks and found flashlights etc. inoperative from failed batteries from multiple brands. Found a whole 24-pack of Costco AA batteries in our earthquake supplies where half had leaked … they had a 2024 exp date as I recall.
Since then for AA and AAA, only use Energizer Lithium or various rechargeables (mostly Eneloops and Amazon Basics). None have failed. Where I could, have substituted “packages” of these AA or AAA for alkaline C and D cells in radios etc. But sometimes they will not fit (esp in flashlights) because the packages are slightly too large in diameter.
It was a big initial expense to switch, but cost per for the lithium and the rechargeables is very close if you shop carefully, so economics heavily favor rechargeables over time. And I suspect there is some environmental plus to them, esp if you go through a lot of batts. This is, of course, once you have made the decision to never use the alkaline cells again.
JoeM says
I kinda gave up on the disposable battery game a while back. We don’t have “Radio Shack” anymore, but they were bought by another company that was a subsidiary of Bell/AT&T here in Canada. Due to a lawsuit from Radio Shack in the US, they had to change their name to “The Source by Circuit City” and then just “The Source” when Circuit City went under.
They sell their house brand NexTech InfiniCells in these giant tray packs. Sometimes you get 48, or some years they release a 60 pack, usually on sale for ~$15. Do these last long? Meh? I have one of the last generation of Microsoft Intellimouse Explorers, with the optical tracking, 2-way scrolling, and 5-button layout… Usually eats batteries for lunch, if I’m working on some basic CAD design, or just some big design project… lots of Duracells and Energizers would last from about Noon to 3PM. Same conditions, these NexTech batteries seem to need replacing once every 3 months. No leaks, Alcaline batteries, no real problems.
I am still trying to convince my Mother that she can’t keep batteries in LED flashlights all the time, because they will only last a few hours at a time, and she is losing her eyesight. (Macular Degeneration due to Diabetes. And she’s in her 70’s.) She uses these little flashlights for HOURS every day, trying to see things, and wonders why they don’t “Just Work”… The NexTech batteries aren’t magic or anything, they’re still basic Alcaline batteries, with all their limitations. But with how much they get used by my Mother’s abuse of flashlights alone, I’m not spending any more than I already do, for a losing battle.
I have yet to have a single leak in any of the EnerCell batteries. Going on 20 years I’ve been going with the basic bulk packs, and no leaks. They die long before they leak, and they’re cheap to replace. If not for the problem of going through so many on my Mother alone, I would go with something better.
I can say Rayovac is garbage anyways. They went downhill in the mid-90’s. I don’t know why, or how, but the quality just dropped off the edge of a cliff around then. Up until that point, they were my go-to for school projects and science experiments. Then came a time I was older, had some tech gear, and it was Duracells and Energizers. Disposable or Rechargeable, I was going through them extremely fast. The costs were mounting, and I just couldn’t keep up. So, I admit I quit playing the game, and just went with the Then-Radioshack Tray Packs. As the company changed, the product didn’t. The name of the product changed half a dozen times, but they were the same, and went on sale frequently. Sometimes that $15 tray pack was only a dozen or so batteries, sometimes it was the newer 30 pack trays. Sometimes that 30 pack would be 48, or 60, and still be $15, marked down to $9.99 during certain times of the year. But they’re the only ones that haven’t failed me within a reasonable budget.
I could go conspiracy theory on you, and say some of these companies are deliberately sabbotaging their battery quality in order to push you toward their higher end Lithium series cells, but I’d only be joking about that. I honestly stopped playing their games. They’re all too expensive for what you’re getting.
Flotsam says
Has anyone ever seen a real scientific analysis of why batteries leak or more realistically under what conditions they are prone to leaking? ex:
– Temperature extremes
– Disuse of the item with the battery
– High discharge cycles
– Manufacturing defects
Edwin says
I had the same experience with Ray-o-Vac so I stopped using them a few years ago. I’ve also had leakage problems with Duracells. So far, the Energizers are holding up, but I don’t trust them either; the important stuff is on a every-30-day inspection list – which is a royal PITA that a consumer should not have to endure – and a strict battery replacement schedule – one year and replace them no mattter what.
So far, I’ve not had a problem with brand-name R123A batteries; they’re lithiums, of course, and more expensive, but if I really, really have to have it work – primarily flashlights but also “other critical uses” – I’ll replace a AA / D cell device with one that uses 123s, and if I can find a lithium to fit a device that now uses alkalines I’ll do it. I think there’s a market for an adapter to replace alkaline Ds with 123s; the voltage is different, but I’d be willing to buy 123s AND an adapter to replace all my extremely questionable D cells in led Maglites with 4 123s wired in parallel. Until then, I’m slowly replacing Maglites with Surefire, Elzetta, Streamlight and Fenix flashlights that use 123s and buying only brand-name 123 batteries.
I have no idea what happened to batteries; I suspect government interference, “clean air” or some such malignant EPA rule driving chemistry changes; I also do not rule out that the battery manufacturers may be lying to us about where the batteries are really made, or from where they get the chemicals for manufacturing so-called “made in the US” batteries. I recall the problems from Chinese-made drywall about 12 years ago.
MikeB says
No evidence, but I suspect that RoHS compliance may have forced the removal of some key substance in the battery housing formulation. Something similar to lead-free solder resulting in tin-whisker issues in electronics.
Altan says
I can see lots of complains about famous brands even, and that shows clearly there is a problem with non-rechargeable batteries. The number of complains grow quickly also, I think I will see minimum of 70 comments here.
JoeM says
Undershot the guess by just a hair, Altan! Nearly 80 already!
Jamie Davis says
SAME . PROBLEM…….. They were at a fair price. Well within expiration date. S**t the bed! Switched to the Aldi Alkaline. No problems yet. But, Duracell is probably the way to go.
David says
I’ve almost entirely switched away from disposable cells in favor of Eneloops – I’ve continued to buy a set when Costco puts them on sale, and any time I run into something running non-Eneloop batteries, I swap them. I’ve had zero issues with Eneloops, and they pay for themselves after I charge them a handful of times. With their very long life, they’re a long term good economic choice for me.
The few devices that I do want disposable batteries in get Duracells, or, in the case of 9v batteries, whatever name brand has a good price for a bulk pack when I need them. I’ve never had a 9v cell leak, but AA’s an AAA’s from many brands have leaked all over the place. Duracell is simply the least likely to do so from my experience.
csroc says
As far as I’m concerned, it’s worth switching to NiMH for anything AA or AAA. I don’t buy alkalines in those sizes at all anymore.
I would recommend getting low self discharge (LSD) batteries, that way you’re infrequently used devices will still have a charge after a year or two, and you have no risk of leakage.
You don’t have to spend $20 a 4 pack either, although I do use better cells like Eneloops in more critical situations. But for game controllers, remotes, other odds and ends like that? Go for another brand or wait for a sale on the Eneloops. The main thing is avoid buying the smaller packs. Buy more than you need in the 16 or 24 or larger packs and you’ll save a lot.
16 Eneloop AAs for $34ish: https://amzn.to/2IztWAn
24 Tenergy Centura AAs for $33: https://amzn.to/2VaFqPC (I’ve had good luck with these, reviews are all over so YMMV)
Another option would be the Amazon Basics cells, I’ve got a handful of their AA and AAA batteries and they’ve worked well.
Considering I’ve been using some Eneloops for over 15 years, and Tenergys for near 10 now, and they’re still in regular rotation in remotes and game controllers and the like, I’d say it’s been worth it. No leaks and no batteries to constantly dispose of. When a device needs fresh batteries I pull already charged batteries out of storage and pop the drained batteries on a charger. The LSD cells mean I can just leave them waiting with a full charge for the next time I need them since the charge loss is so minimal.
Nathan Killion says
I also switched back to Duracell after leaky Rayovac’s welded themselves into two of my Maglights.
I also no longer store any of my sensitive testing equipment with the batteries installed.
Farid says
As materials or manufacturing plants seem to change all the time,l I am not supersized this happens, although I wish there was a way around it.
I too have bought some the HD Rayovac deals a few years ago and we bought a bunch at work as well. I found the AA size lasted longer than the energizers. However, I quickly ran into leaking problems and quit buying them. I have had my share of leaky energizers too. I have had the least problems with Duracell, but they are not immune either. I had a couple of fairly new ones leak. The other day I pulled a box of my guitar pedals that I have not used in over 20 years, and some still had Duracells in them and they still worked!
The other issue I ran into is Duracell used to be labeled as 10-year batteries. After they introduced the Duracell Ultra, they labeled the standard ones with 5 years. Is it marketing only? I have had ones that only lasted 5 or as little as 3 in storage. I have not had that issue with the pro batteries yet.
Nathan says
I don’t have the time to go around recharging a bunch of batteries over time – let alone sets of chargers.
So few things – when you have leak issue do you bother to tell the company. I try to they don’t really test things 100% remember they make millions of these things.
So they might need to check their machine setups. Also I don’t buy bulk batteries at the box store. those 50 pack sets for Sam’s or whatever. PASS. Everything sold at sams or costco or whatever – is all made to a price point standard set by them and may not always be the same as the other product you buy at some other store.
Just because it says ________ on it doesn’t mean it’s the same one you buy at target.
or you know wherever.
Of these companies how many of them do you think actually make the batteries? Who is the parent company and how many factories are there actually. It’s like researching car batteries.
Rechargeables can come apart too – yes it’s alot rarer and it doesn’t mean the leak a gel. But lithium battery can cause lots of damage to something if it gets hot and pops the case – they can vent hot hydrogen gas.
So I use alklines in somethings. LIke Stuart says – in the kiddo’s toy that gets used sporadically in a sealed battery box and it uses 4 AA size – it gets standard batteries. and I get them from target or wallmart or in some cases lowes and home depot. I use both energizer and duracell and I never buy a set of much more than 12 at a time. I don’t keep 60 + batteries in a box in my draw or whatever. It’s not necessary.
Even if you are a full up doomsday prepper then you should read more books and know you should use other battery types too. Diversify your stuff.
Meanwhile on the corroded terminals when I do get them and last time I did it was on a video game controller – I use lemon juice and alcohol to clean it off. Lemon juice to clear out any alkline residues (acid to nullify basic) and then alcohol to help dry out and clean any residue.
Finally on things like maglites. why do you put batteries in there without coating the body with wax paper? Seriously my 4D cell light or police batton I put the batteries in a row on a piece of wax paper and slide them in like an assembly.
I like some rechargeable batteries and use some. like in my headlamp for example. but something that sits on a shelf more than it gets used – there isn’t really a good rechargeable for that that doesn’t have a leak down ramp and expensive cost. And I do enough mx of things around the house that I don’t really want to also chart my rechargeables that needs cycle recharge MX. For everything I own.
Home theater remote is a Harmony and it’s rechargeable. Bed room remote is roku box remote and has 2 double aa energizers in it. Kids toys that make alot of noise all have alkaline in them. Headlamp in the garage that gets used – eneloops. other flashlight in the bedroom that is there for night time noises – has 4 all lines in there.
OH and yes the alklines that I throw away – are put in battery recycling boxes at work because we do that. I don’t just put them in the trash.
Ed says
Panasonic eneloop rechargable best batteries ever use them in everything
Pablo says
Ni-Mh is a better bet such as the Panasonic Eneloop.
Only the rarest chance of leakage and more eco friendly.
Bigger setup cost, but well worth it. Paired with some Storacell battery holders you can carry on your and it makes it a no brainer.
Mickey says
I’ve had the same problem with Duracell. I’ve had very good luck using Energizer.
Paul K says
I would go with rechargeable in anything I cared about or used a lot. That said, there’s still a use for alkaline. Obviously I’d like them to last a long time but for me the most important thing is to not leak.
Kirkland (circa 5-8 years ago) were AWFUL for leaking. Maybe they’re better now, but I’ll never find out.
Rayovac also leaked, but didn’t seem as bad, but didn’t use as many to really know.
Duracell are pretty good, but much more expensive and to me, if I’m putting a premium battery is something, it’ll be rechargeable.
Been using AC Delco (which i’m sure is just a licensed name on a generic battery) from Amazon for about 5 years with no leaks that I can recall. They’re cheap, work well for the most part, and do not leak. There’s about 10% 1 star reviews (which is about average or better for any battery on Amazon) but 90% of them are for life or total lack of charge, very few for leaking.
John Sullivan says
Ever tried making a claim against the so-called guarantee? Forget it… Rayovac knows that they made it more costly to bother than it would cost to buy a new pack of batteries. Short sighted decision on their part, since I came to the same conclusion as you, bought a competitor’s battery, and I will never go back.
Diamond Dave says
Good to know others experience the same leaking problems I have occasionally. I usually purchase the Rayovac multi packs during the holiday season when they go on sale and then stock up for the year. I had less problems (it seems) when the Rayovacs were the silver and blue rather than predominantly silver as they are now. I also use rechargeable lithium batteries in my flashlights and have around 20 AA and 8 AAA eneloop rechargeables that I rotate on certain devices. Like most others have stated, I never have had a leaking eneloop battery but agree also with Stuart that they are still too expensive for remotes and many other low draw or occasionally used devices.
Typically in low drain devices that are using power constant like a clock, I use regular non alkaline “cheap” batteries due to alkaline’s predisposition to leak. Garage tools like IR Scanners, stud sensors and circuit detectors I usually take my batteries out or at the very least turn them inside out so even if there is a very small amount of leaking voltage running through the device when turned off the batteries cannot release any voltage current being backwards in the device.
As far as leaking in the store package…no I have not had those issues as of yet. I usually purchase multi variety watch type batteries (alkaline) for button cells and yes I consistently have about a 3rd of these batteries leaking in the variety packages themselves that have to be discarded.
MT_Noob says
Yep, I’m done with Rayovac. No matter how good the deal is, I’m going to pas on Rayovac. I’ve had too many leaks.
Chris Fyfe says
Beware of Duracell 9 volts , lots of reports of leaks involving expensive meters , all my Flukes , that use 9 volt cells , arenowon a Lithium diet .
Best Regards,
Chris
Mike (the other one) says
It’s better to use Carbon Zinc batteries in things like remotes, clocks, or other low drain devices. They tend to last long in those applications, and rarely leak.
For high drain devices, go with Panasonic Eneloops. They are among the best rechargeable batteries you can get. You can also get spacers that allow you to use AA batteries in a D-cell flashlight as an example. They last a long time, can hold their charge for a long time while being stored, and they don’t leak. They can also be recharged thousands of times before end of life. These are MUCH better than Energizer/Rayovac rechargeable batteries. I know for a while, some Duracell rechargeable batteries were rebranded Eneloops, but it’s hard to tell which ones they are. I don’t know if this is still the case.
For high drain devices that need instant power (no time to wait for charging), I use Energizer lithium batteries. They have better life spans than alkalines, they don’t leak, and they can be left unattended for a long time. (example: a flashlight in the garage that only gets used from time to time.) I generally use these as backup batteries for important things.
I generally only use alkalines in high drain devices that get frequent battery swaps. Things like microphones, or cameras get new batteries before they are about to be used, because I can’t risk a low cells causing something like this to die in the middle of an event. Used batteries are tested and I may use them in a flashlight or something for a bit, but then they are recycled.
BTW, get a battery tester. Some Multimeters have a battery test option, which is very handy.
Generally, it’s safe to assume that ALL alkaline batteries WILL leak, because eventually, they do.
RCWARD says
The old saying “ you get what you pay for” comes to mind here. Why did you ever think buying cheap batteries was a good idea?
Bruce Pierce says
I work in the fire service and Duracell batteries leak like a sieve. We are switching over to Energizer batteries to see if they are any better.
Stacey says
Bummer, sounds like these are worse than the cheapo batteries from fries. They run from 9 cents to $1 a pack but leak like crazy if you leave them in too long, so I use them in this Christmas snow globe that sucks batteries in a day, then toss them. Sounds like you need to upgrade to Sony or Eneloop for mid-grade uses like toys and Eneloop for good flashlights, etc.
S says
My guess is, you’ll be putting up an article in about a year, saying you’re not buying Duracells, any longer. They are bad about leaking. Yes, Rayovac are the worst I’ve seen. Kirkland and Duracells easily come in second. I’ve had a lot of things damaged by leaking Duracells and Kirkland batteries.
We have a LOT of electronics and even lightly used items, having Duracells (and previously Kirkland), USUALLY leaked. This occurred with different batches (lots) and from different suppliers. They are not like they used to be. I won’t touch them anymore.
I have had the best track record with Energizers. I did have a set of Energizers leak in something earlier this year, which surprised me because they have such a good track record.
Duracell was good about replacing a number of things that they damaged (it took a long time, though). Do a search online. There are several forums with discussions about how Duracells are no longer good.
I’ve also had a good track record with Panasonic alkalines. Most of these have been batteries that came with a device and I don’t think I’ve ever had a set of those leak. I don’t know if they would replace something that was damaged by leaking, though.
S
:) says
Energizer MAX…a lot of hashing out on this subject over here –> https://modernsurvivalblog.com/preps/battery-corrosion-why-they-leak-and-how-to-prevent-it/
Nate B says
I don’t use alkaline at all anymore.
All alkalines can leak when they go dead, as the electrolyte basically runs out of electrodes to eat, and starts eating the can instead.
I use NiMH AA’s for frequent-use stuff, and lithium AA’s for standby service. They cost more, but store more power, and it’s basically impossible for them to leak. Not having to clean corroded schmutz out of battery compartments is worth it!
Travis says
My experience with Kirkland and Duracell AAA & AA cells has been horrible for the last few years. They leak in the packaging and during use. The Duracell CR123A batteries have never leaked in my flashlights. I’ve switched to Energizer alkaline and lithium AAA & AA batteries.
The warranties of on their website guarantee to replace or refund. I return the Kirkland batteries to Costco with the two sets of electronic ear muffs they ruined with an Amazon listing of the cost to replace after about a month I got a check for the muffs and batteries. I mail damaged items to Duracell with a receipt or Amazon listing for the damaged item with batteries that leaked in a zip lock bag after a few months I receive a check for the item and a coupon for free batteries and page instruction me how to care for their batteries.
Over the last few years, I’ve sent & received a check from Duracell for about 10 items the most expensive was a Nikon flash that was over $200. They do not ask the age of the item. Their batteries are not what the used to be but they do honor their warranty.
Scott P Wisniewski says
Kirkland batteries are leakers also. I now purchase only Duracell. Have hade many leakers in the Costco Kirkland brand.
SubJock says
In case no one else has said it: Eneloop. Don’t leak, ever.
Cm says
I have had no issues with my rayovac holiday packs but they have been the older matte colored batteries instead of the newer shiny high energy rayovacs. I have had more energizers leak and rarely Duracell’s. I have had dcell maglites ruined by all 3 brands. The Duracell procells haven’t leaked for me. After having a red dot scope ruined by a leaking AA I just check then often in things like that.
Chris says
Eneloop or Amazon rechargeables for me.
bob says
i’ve gotten away from duracell because of leakage. except for the 1 incident where ray o vacs leaked, (destroying a fluke 233), i havent had a problem with ray o vac. they did replace the 233, without an issue.
however, now i remove batteries from whatever, unless the use is daily.
John Sullivan says
This article was fresh on my mind when I was pulling the hinges off of a storage closet door that was secured by (an unexpectedly dead) electronic keypad. The batteries had leaked, but fortunately it seems to have happened very recently and the battery compartment was undamaged.
SO– off I went to the nearest (and only, for 20 miles) hardware store. They had Duracells that seemed super-premium, but they were in an opaque black package and I couldn’t see the expiration date. Then I saw a package of “normal” Duracells in a blister pack with a 2028 expiration date… and they were leaking in the package. And so was the next one.
Maybe I’m overreacting, but I’m pretty sure this means that we’re all doomed.
Ryan Jacob says
I’ve had major issues with Rayovac batteries as well. A couple of years ago I bought 2 36-battery boxes of Rayovac batteries on black Friday and they were so horrible that I ran through both boxes in less than a year. I didn’t have the leaking issue but that was because they were dying so quickly that I was lucky to get a month out of them in a tv remote control. I had some batteries that were so depleted that they wouldn’t even work in my Z-wave door lock. When you’d put the batteries in the lock everything seemed to be fine but the lock would start cutting out or running really slowly. They were by far the worst batteries I’ve ever used. I’ve since switched to Duracell for my door locks, which generally last me about 4-6 months!
Greg says
I had so much trouble with leaking batteries including Duracell now I only use Energizer lithium in AAA and AA that won’t leak and last for 20 years but when it come to C and D sizes I just keep everything out of my flashlights ready for use as needed. When I was repairing my flashlights with leaking batteries Duracells leaked worse than all the other brands. I would never trust any alkaline battery in something important.
Thad says
In some devices, Durocell batteries leak even before they stop powering the device.
Kentwank says
Been using Costco batteries for years.Those Kirkland batteries leak. Not impressed. Got everyone excited on this subject. Best to get a battery tester. For 35 years I would throw out all the batteries from the unit. After getting a 5 buck multi size tester started testing and found that one out of 3 batteries would be low and the rest good. Think back on throwing out those pricey d cell energizer batts that went into ghetto blasters in 60s and 70s without testing.