Earlier this week we posted about Milwaukee’s new M12 Fuel Extended Reach cordless ratchets.
Jared asked a great question, about whether the ratchets can be used manually.
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Just curious, after tightening under power, can you finish manually so you can feel the torque you are applying? If so, is it safe to exceed the 55ft/lbs the tool is capable of applying? Just curious whether that would damage the tool -especially with these extended models where it would presumably be easier to apply more torque with your hands.
I thought it might be alright, but wanted to double-check with Milwaukee just to be sure.
I asked Milwaukee Tool whether their cordless ratchets can be used manually (unpowered) for final tightening or initial loosening without concerns about damage to the gearing or internal components
Here’s what they said:
We understand people do this but it is not recommended with these products.
So, although you could use the ratchets manually, it’s not recommended. I would think that final tightening is less stressful on internal components than breaking stuck fasteners free, but I suppose that depends on the circumstances.
If a cordless ratchet can’t break a fastener free, use a breaker bar, which mirrors how you’d use traditional hand tools. Or, if the fastener’s in a more accessible space, you could use an impact wrench. And if you need more torque than the ratchet can provide, then use… maybe a larger-sized tool or a torque wrench?
For those of you that use cordless ratchets regularly, do you use any other tools for your final tightening, or do you turn the unpowered ratchet by hand?
Buy Now(Milwaukee M12 Fuel Ratchets via Tool Nut)
Mr. Certainly says
It’s odd — they advertise this feature with their M12 drill/drivers, but not with the ratchets?
Chris says
Well, technically you wouldn’t be twisting your wrist with the drill to tighten a screw down further than the drill can on its own. I know I’ve done it, I know other people do it. But it’s not quite the intended use of a drill driver. Most companies don’t advertise cordless drill drivers as wing used by hand.
Taras says
The 1/4″ drill/drivers have a Sprague clutch behind the adjustable clutch ring. This allows you to turn the driver when it’s not powered because the balls lock out the clutch/chuck assembly from the gear drive that’s powered by the motor. The ratchets don’t have this structure as it’s too bulky, so any input from the socket side of the tool would be borne by the gear drive mechanism instead of being locked out to the tool body. I know the ratchet has pawls that perform the same function, so I’m guessing it would have to be due to either the metal/plastic interface, or handle battery interface. Unlike a hand drill, there isn’t as much meat for tool structure in a slender item like this.
NZTom says
I would venture the weak area is the plastic handle, especially the screw pillars holding it together. If using it to tighten/loosen manually, it would be natural to pull hard on the battery end to gain leverage. With predictable consequences.
TG says
This doesn’t make any sense.
The pawls are engaged and there’s no torque being transmitted to the motor so it should be just as rugged as any regular ratchet with that sized head.
Now it IS possible that the plastic portion of the tool is not up to high load.
TG
rmkilc says
Pretty sure the handle would be the problem, not the head.
PETE says
Well the main issue is that the most likely spot to apply pressure is the end of the tool- which is a removable battery portion. Which does NOT like to be pushed on.
Chris says
Pete, that’s my biggest problem with air ratchets. no matter how many times I use them, I always find myself working my hand down the ratchet closer to the air fitting for more torque. It’s obviously not good for the air fitting to be using it like a cheater pipe😂
I was quite disappointed to see that the metal didn’t extend further into the plastic handle during AVE’s teardown of one of these.
Brandon says
AvE just recently tore one of these down and says that is his plan to use it just as described: running in power for initial high-speed driving, then tightening by hand. His impressions were pretty positive, especially of the head and ratchet mechanism. I don’t think any long term damage will come to the operating end by using it like this, but commenters said that the one issue they’ve had with durability in such regard is that the plastic casing flexes and loosens up due to the constant stress: that’s a lot of torque to apply to a hollow plastic casing. Choke up on it and you should be fine, if you need more torque grab the proper tool or plan to replace the ratchet after a couple years.
Stuart says
I think it’s also recommended against because there’s no telling what different users might try to do. Some users might try to whack it with a dead blow mallet, or use a cheaper bar.
It should be able to handle some manual use, but it probably isn’t a good idea to take things too far. I was focused on the internal components and didn’t even think about the stress that unpowered use might exert on the plastic housing or other components.
Chris says
I feel like I’ve read that the ratchet is capable of 100 or so foot pounds of torque manually.
Jason says
Seems like it shouldn’t be called a “ratchet”, then. It’s more like a 90 degree cordless driver with square drive.
Derek says
Wouldn’t any time savings by using a cordless ratchet be lost when you have to switch to a regular ratchet for final tightening?
Stuart says
Not necessarily.
Consider how impact wrenches can be paired with torque wrenches.
Lance says
So, according to Milwaukee’s official statement these are pretty much useless then. A 1/2” drive tool limited to 60 ft-lbs has no place, really.
Chris says
Not really. cause they can still save time since you don’t have to spend 5 minutes either threading the fastener in my hand or with a ratchet.
Lance says
The 1/2” in my statement is the key. The 3/8” version is good for 55 ft-lbs, more than enough to thread fasteners. The 1/2” model only gets you an extra 5 ft-lbs, so why does the 1/2” exist?
Rory says
They are excellent tools, hands down the best 12v tool on the market for mechanics.
You can undo bolts with them and then spin them off.
Final tightening is done by hand after the electronic clutch turns the motor off and because its by hand you have control over the fastener and feel for what torque is being applied.
NZTom says
Because not everyone wants to have a set of 3/8” sockets?
Andrew says
Talking to two friends who have the 1/2, they aren’t big fans. They both said they feel gutless, and that they wish they had just bought the 3/8″ instead.
Peter Laucella says
I was wondering the same thing. I have the Husky brand one and it allows up to 150lb torque manually.
Nathan says
I suspect like lots of CYA for warranty. WE don’t recommend ________
you break the tool doing __________ 3 times a day every day for 4 months.
Typically with Air ratchets you have something with an AL body for the airmotor anyway. Newer air ratchets with plastic bodies still have a metal shaft .
So I could see where this might have some issues with the bottom of the handle flexing or the plastic around the battery latch distoring.
Sort of wonder if the MAC and IR versions say similar. I suspect they are used exactly like air ratchets. Which reminds me I know a few people with the milwaukee I should see if they had issues.
Brian A says
Pretty sure the manual says you can, but the key is to not have the lever on which the manual also says. Having the lever on with the motor trying to work and manually helping it is a sure fire way to break the tool.
JoeM says
…Wouldn’t it be easier to settle this if they just made them capable of higher torque values? Then you don’t need to finish off anything manually… the tool would naturally do it for you first-go.
Honest confession: Until I saw how low the torque value was, I actually said to myself “Hey, I could actually see myself using one of these, despite being a DeWALT guy… I’d consider buying Milwaukee for once…”
Sadly… That was kinda ruined for me… Had my heart kinda fluttering and everything.
Nathan says
most air ratchets are also fairly low running torque. Reasoning is more to do with size than anything else.
same would apply here. The idea of most was to help you run in or out long bolts and do a final tighten at the end manually or with another tool.
Example Alternator bracket bolts on an GM LS motor run about 4 inches or so – threaded for 2 inches. yes you can take them out by hand – but while you’rs still doing than 10 minutes later one of these would have you on the next step already.
high tooth count ratchets do make the need for a power ratchet a bit less – but they still help alot. if I did car repair professionally I’d have 2 of these or some version of them. Probably the IR ones.
jayne says
I have the older 3/8 drive model that I use when working on my Toyotas I have never had any problems with this tool. It’s nice to have and use…
PETE says
Have the same 3/8 model. It works fantastic- seems like those complaining don’t own the tool.
When you do use it frequently it ends up being a necessity- Like, I can’t live without one now.
JoeM says
Dead serious… If it had a higher torque value, I’d get one. I have zero other complaints, as I don’t belong to the group that wants to manually torque this tool. I’m a DeWALT guy, but if I could replace my socket drivers with a set of these? I’d go team Red for that alone. I don’t use sockets in tight spaces anyways, so it doesn’t bother me otherwise. I’d still want the DeWALT Impact Wrench, sure… but for just… a Socket Turning Tool? It’s a Power-Ratchet… It would save tons of time!
Though, if this is such a common thing, for the torque rating to be so low… I may only want the DeWALT Impact Wrench or Impact Driver and save the expense. But, I’m not the typical audience for these.
RKA says
Same here. I do final tightening with it provided it doesn’t need to be tighter than an oil drain plug. If I need to put more torque on it I’ll get a wrench. If it breaks under those circumstances, I’ll suck it up and get a new one every 7 years (or however long it’s been since they first came out). If I was using it in a professional environment and it was breaking every 6 months I might feel differently.
Andy Reuter says
To all the people saying “if you can’t torque it down, it’s worthless:” I’d argue the real purpose of these is for loosening/tightening bolts in horrifyingly tight spaces. For example, trying to replace an alternator in a modern-day vehicle’s every-square-inch-has-something-in-it engine bay. I gladly forked over ~$200 for one of these to save myself 2 hours of moving the ratchet 1 degree at a time for such a job on a Rav4. No big deal to drop a torque wrench down in there for the final, precise tightening, in comparison.
glenn says
I have had the 3/8 brushed ratchet since it was released and have done this with it when needed since I bought it with no apparent detriment to the tool as it still works perfectly.
I will add that my uses are relatively light duty but frequent use. (Installing split aircons) ie; where sometimes the mounting bolts for the brackets don’t quite pull up, I use it manually to cinch them up etc.
I would suggest that Milwaukee have said this to avoid liability in situations where some gorilla has been swinging off it trying to undo a bolt. or nut that this tool was never designed for.
Indeed the manual for Makita’s new CXT ratchet states that it can be used as a manual tool, with a proviso.
Quote,
Using as hand tool You can use the tool as a hand ratchet wrench by turning the tool in the direction arrows as illustrated. In particular when loosening a stiff bolt/nut, loosen it by hand first then turn the tool on.
NOTICE: Excessive fastening torque may damage the bolt/nut, the socket or the tool.
So a degree of common sense comes into it.
glenn says
I left a paragraph out,
I just sold the Milwaukee ratchet to a co worker and bought the new Makita CXT ratchet as I have swapped over to Makita for 12v [email protected]
The What? says
Why would anyone want to use a cordless ratchet or an air ratchet for that purpose? That’s not what the tool was intended to do. It’s purpose is for nothing other than a thread running and that’s it. That’s what normal ratchets & torque wrenches are for. I’m sure Milwaukee said it’s not recommended because as soon as you lay into it or use a cheater bar or a hammer, the damn plastic is gonna snap like a twig. I thought Milwaukee would have at least made this thing out aluminum considering that the damn thing costs $350. That’s pretty steep for a plastic ratchet that only has 55 ft/lbs of torque.
JoeM says
…You’re making a lot of sense to me again… When this happens I tend to start regretting what I’ve said in the thread…
Seriously? It’s that much? Damn… At that price, why ISN’T it able to go at a higher torque rate, to save the switch to a torque bar at the end?
…I regret my daliance with going Team Red for these things… That is an awful lot of money.
Kevin says
Umm, I bought mine for $170, battery included from home Depot…
chad says
Seems to me there is a potential perfect product here. An electric ratchet that is strong enough to be used manually for final tightening and with built in strain gauges that will announce at preset torques.
Diego says
I’ve used the non fuel versions for years. While I have tightened or loosened bolts/nuts down for years using it as a hand ratchet. It’s not very ergonomic to do so. I will often switch to my non powered ratchet for final tightening or loosening.
This is why having two sets of metric 3/8 sockets or whatever comes in handy.
D
Ken says
I have a 3/8” M12 Fuel ratchet and I love it. I use it all the time. I do use it to both break free and to tighten fasteners past the tools electric drive torque limit and have had no problems.
However, I remain aware that I am using a 3/8” ratchet and plastic body. I choke up on the took to me sure I am on pulling on the section that is backed up by the metal body and I limit my torque to somewhere around 80ft-lb (estimated).
Dave says
First off, I don’t own this tool, but I was thinking about the 1/2″ drive version.
I DO own 2 pneumatic ones, and I use them manually to both loosen stubborn fasteners and to put the final torque on things that I want to tighten by “feel”, or tighten past the limits of the tool when used pneumatically. I do this way more than half of the time.
In the real world, there’s rusty fasteners galore to be disassembled, over-tightened stuff to be removed, and things that need tightened by feel or past the tool’s limit.
I guess I figured that the plastic handle wrapped around a full-length steel spine or tube until out at the end where the battery attaches, but from what I’m reading here, that might not be the case.
1)Plastic– 2)not recc’d to “pull” on the tool and use manually—
A big PASS on this tool for me; I”m no longer interested whatsoever.
Simon says
Had a couple of the 3/8” non fuel ratchets at work in a tractor trailer shop for over a year. Used these just like a real ratchet breaking loose and tightening things past its capability. I only used the grip and never pulled on the battery. You could feel a little flex in the tool, but it never caused a problem and I ended up getting one for home too.
Jared says
Just posting to say I thoroughly enjoyed getting the official answer – as well as all the debate that ensued. Thanks!
Denis Curtis says
I’ve had the fuel 3/8 ratchet for close to two years now and I do heavy equipment repair, big stuff, 349 cats and up with my company and this thing hasn’t quit yet. And yeah I’ve pulled the battery out a few times grabbing it for that little bit of extra leverage. If your not careful when the battery pulls out you can wind up on your back side or off the excavators counterweight. We’re though on stuff and ALL my cordless stuff is Milwaukee M12 and M18. I traded in my Snap Ons for other tools. Snap On cordless couldn’t compete with Milwaukee, even my dealer won’t knock the Milwaukee.