The Reekon M1 Caliber is a clamp-on accessory for your miter saw, and it will measure any flat surface or building material that can fit underneath. This means flat stock, but also pipes and tubes.
We’ve known about the M1 Caliber for some time, and I’ve been very eager to get my hands on one, but time constraints and a tendency to worry about prototypes (both in terms of damaging them and whether functionality is indicative of final production quality) got in the way of that.
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Not to mince words, this looks like a must-have accessory.
Lasers and LED shadow lights are reasonably accurate when it comes to setting up cut lines on a miter saw, but precision can vary a bit. Plus, you first have to measure and mark up all of your stock. This can get repetitive when you have a lot of material to cut, or complex if you have lots of different measurements to keep track of.
Stop blocks allow for quick measurements and easy repeatability, but require a lot of space in your workshop.
The Reekon M1 Caliber basically clamps to your miter saw fence and its wheel tells you how much linear material passes by. It’s similar to how measuring wheels work, like this Komelon.
The M1 Caliber has a 4096 position encoder and is said to be accurate to ±0.02″ or ±0.5mm.
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Reekon says that it’s up to 110% faster than conventional measuring methods, compatible with most miter and chop saws, durable for the toughest jobsites, and versatile – capable of aiding almost any kind of cut.
It can work on the left or right sides of the saw, although automatic height adjustment will only work on the left.
It can make straight cuts, mitered cuts, and beveled cuts.
There’s a backlit LED display, allowing the screen to be visible in different lighting conditions.
Measurements can be made in imperial (inches and feet) and metric (centimeters and millimeters) units, and a one-touch zero button can adjust for the thickness of whatever blade you are using.
Beyond miter saws, the M1 Caliber can also clamp onto the fences of chop saws or horizontal band saws.
And if your fence isn’t large enough – it requires certain size for proper clamping – not to fret, they make an adapter plate to remedy that.
There is a catch.
Reekon says that severely twisted, bent, or warped dimensional lumber could result in measurement inaccuracies. You will want to ensure your stock is flat, otherwise the measuring wheel could build up a measurement error over longer spans. If it helps, visualize the difference in distance traveled for a car that drives over a hill compared to one that takes the tunnel through.
This seems like just the thing that would have saved me a lot of frustration in the past, and that could save me a lot of frustrations in the future.
Some people gang-cut lumber boards to help increase precision, others build elaborate miter saw cutting stations with long tables and stop blocks. This is just a small accessory that you simply clamp to the fence of your saw.
Fundraising Price: $99
The future retail price is said to be $150.
Shipping ETA: December 2020
(The $99 pledge level is the early bird price. Once supplies run out, the next pledge level will be $109.)
NOTE: Kickstarter is a fundraising program. You’re technically not buying the item, but funding (backing) the project with a pledge in exchange for the promise of one of these tools as a reward.
Here’s a video that demonstrates how it works:
The Reekon M1 Caliber is made in the USA with precision imported hardware.
Personally, I can’t wait to get my hands on one. I’m in line to receive a test sample, and barring any unforeseen issues, I anticipate buying one at retail. I can’t imagine any reason why this wouldn’t be incredibly indispensable.
The Kickstarter campaign offers enough savings that you’ll want to weigh the pros and cons between buying one via fundraising campaign or at retail once the tool officially launches in a few months.
I have had a lot of time to think about what the M1 Caliber offers, and every time I used a miter saw for a couple of cuts, I wished I had been able to say yes to the opportunity to vet one of the prototype.
This is one of the few “it’ll change how you work forever!” types of tools that I believe will actually deliver on its promises. It has a precision measuring wheel, a straightforward and flexible mounting clamp, and simple user interface with a large and clear display.
Aside from being less ideal for use with very rough or uneven lumber or other materials, what’s the downside.
Hmm, what about the wheel wearing out over time?
Components have been thoroughly tested for robustness with many of them field-replaceable increasing device lifetime and making it simple and easy to keep running all the time.
Are there any other hesitations? Seems like a well-thought-out design with practical benefits and reasonable price.
Cory
I think this is cool, I kinda want it
BobM
Seems to me like it’s on the wrong side of the saw.
I thought for most right-handed users, you usually put the “keep” side on the left, and the waste on the right. At least that’s how I do it.
This apparatus appears like it’s set up for the opposite.
Christian R
Hey Bob, it can also be mounted on the right side and flip the neg and positive signs. The automatic arm adjustment won’t work but it’s easy to just pick up and place on top of the wood.
Skye A Cohen
Perhaps to each their own but I’ve spent a lot of time behind a miter saw and I will say left and right handed both, the keep side is usually to your left, the reason is that’s the side you have a better vantage point to.see.the line you’ve made in relation to the blade. The right side of the blade usually has a.motor blocking your view.
Tim D.
I’m right handed and that’s how I work on a miter, usually.
Joatman
My “keep” Side is usually to the Right if cutting pieces up to 24”. Anything bigger, I’ll switch to keep my kept piece from hitting the floor once the cut is made. About 90% of what I cut is for frames, so I usually have my saw at a 45 angle. I can set up a “stop” to the right of the blade and flip the board after each cut to mass produce, with virtually no waste. But there are times when my keeper is to the left…….to each his own.
blocky
I like to set my boards right on the chopping block. I can’t imagine having to feed the board in from the side for every cut.
Especially if I’m cutting in sequence off one board. That’s a lot of back and forth.
blocky
Guess if I’m cutting in sequence, I could re-zero it out after each cut. Still not in love with the side-feed but understand that’s inherent to the design.
Adam
I agree if I’m cutting lots of material the same length, I have a stop block, if I use this that means I have to read the measurements on the Reekon measure, and stop when I get to the measurement and make the cut, that’s a lot slower than a stop block.
Lyle
I didn’t think today was April 1. I saw this before and thought that it was such a gimmick. I read the article and kept waiting for the joke or punch line. I can’t believe that this would be taken seriously by you guys.
Jon
I’m not sure why you think this is a gimmick or a joke. This would save a ton of time when I need to cut 30, 15.5″ boards, 10, 17″ boards, etc. Setting up a stop block is impractical when I have to use a miter saw stand and measuring every single board is tedious.
Tim D.
I wouldn’t hate it for making setting up stop blocks faster as well.
Lyle
Why did I think this post was a joke? Because this is a tool that is on Kickstarter. I saw the video for this maybe a few months ago, probably on YouTube in one of those clickbait videos for top whatever amazing tools. That doesn’t make this instantly a problem, but the fact that this isn’t a product that he has in hand and is testing (unless I missed something) kinda does. Both Stuart and Ben have tons of tools and I often read how they haven’t yet done a review of a product or can’t yet recommend something because while they might have used the tool, they haven’t had adequate time to really explore it thoroughly. Sometimes they post a quick preview and give a preliminary opinion. However, this time, the post is written and an opinion given and nobody has this product yet. Again, correct me if I’m wrong here, but didn’t he say he doesn’t have it? So I was really surprised and kept waiting for the just kidding, a April Fool’s or whatever. This is the only time that I can remember either of them stating that they think they need something before they’ve had a chance to thoroughly test or play with it. MANY Kickstarter projects fail and the pledge gets NOTHING. When this product can be reliably purchased and many people have their hands on it, then I might begin to consider it a serious product. Until then, just about anyone can make a flashy video that looks good.
Stuart
Ignore the Kickstarter aspect – do your feelings change?
I have NOT seen this in person yet. But the same is often true of other tool news or preview posts.
When I learn about a new tool, I’ll develop expectations and opinions based on what I know so far.
There are more fundraising success stories than flops. For instance, take the Centipede work table as a great example of a successful product – https://toolguyd.com/centipede-collapsible-sawhorse/ .
I receive emails about Kickstarter products and other launches on fundraising platforms all the time. Some of those tools I’ll write about early in the fundraising process, and for others I’ll backburner the topic and watch quietly.
This is the only time that I can remember either of them stating that they think they need something before they’ve had a chance to thoroughly test or play with it.
This drives a lot of my personal purchases. I can’t test everything out before I commit to buying it. In fact, most needs are purchased sight unseen and with leaps of faith, sometimes to satisfaction and other times disappointment.
There are always a few tools on my “must have” list.
To me, this tool has a very strong “it’ll benefit me I want it!” factor. Are there readers who feel similarly and would rather save money and get in line, rather than waiting to order via retail instead of a Kickstarter pledge?
If you’re going to wait – and I did try to remind about typical Kickstarter hesitations – you’re going to wait anyway, right? But if you’d rather have one at introductory pricing, it’ll be too late for me to post about it once it launches at full retail pricing.
So, I figured this post as written could benefit early adopters, and more cautious users who would rather wait would wait just the same.
Looking at the inventor/owner’s background, I think they’re credible to make this happen. Besides that, I did mention that the tech seems sound and plausible.
I have the expectation of a solid product that delivers upon its promises.
If you shared in my excitement, would you have covered the product intro and Kickstarter campaign news any differently?
DirtyDustyBear
At what point do we finally agree that we are Lazy?
Lyle
Look, this is your site, you can post what you want. However, I think you guys do an awesome job of really looking at the stuff that is out there and pay critical attention to all the details for the tools that you review. I think your assessments are fair and you take lots of stuff into consideration. Many people think very highly of your recommendations and that its one of the many reasons that you have such a successful site and following.
This is the main reason why I thought it was odd and a joke that you would post and say that you think this is a must have tool, even though you haven’t ever seen it in person or had time to work with it. I mean, I think you guys do such a good job that I wouldn’t have ever expected what I considered a “recommendation” on something that you didn’t actually get to thoroughly test.
Ok, so yes, I can understand that you guys are probably giddy with excitement (like many of us) when you see cool new tools. It just seemed like maybe you were a little bit over the top excited from your normal reserved self.
Kickstarter does play a role in this. With other tool news/previews that you may not have put your hands on, these are real existing companies with existing products (I’m speaking hypothetically here of course since we’re not talking about a specific instance) that people will be able to go out and buy and return if it doesn’t work out for them. This isn’t the case at all with Kickstarter and I’ve lost money several times on Kickstarter projects before, so I’m really careful.
I do think it is beneficial for you to bring an awareness to cool new products that come out that maybe people wouldn’t have seen or known about otherwise (or for a long time). My comments weren’t meant as criticism, just very surprised given the circumstances, hence the April Fool’s day reference.
Stuart
That’s fair.
With some tools, it’s hard to articulate optimistic expectations, and this is one of them.
What will it take to go from my miter saw use as it is now, to a much easier and predicting setup? That’s something I’ve been struggling with, as I lack the space for a full fence and stop setup and the imagination to improvise in some way. Here’s this new invention, and I can’t think of a solid hesitation or major downside. Combine that with a few months of awareness, and maybe my excitement for the best of me. That does happen – ToolGuyd was born and fueled by an almost unhealthy interest in tools after all.
I do tend to defend my passion for tools and innovations, but I trust and appreciate that you guys will bring healthy (what’s that term for the truck runaway brake zone at the bottom of steep inclines?) to the mix when my enthusiasm seems a bit much.
The benefit of enthusiasm like this is that the bar is raised and I shall pan it if it doesn’t meet my expectations. An accessory like this is only beneficial if it delivers on 100% of its promises. I believe it will, but you’re right in that I shouldn’t let myself out so much faith into it to the point of excess.
I’ll report back once I can vet it.
RickB
I perhaps would have taken it more seriously myself if it was Yellow or perhaps even Blue. Jk, but the color does suck!
Michael
You saw the price tag? LOL! Video is about as close to this I will ever get until the reduce the price by about $1,500.00 Yes, you are seeing this correct. They reduce the price by that much, I would buy it maybe!!!!
Larry K
Same thought I had. Nothing is said about it’s ability to stand up to tool box storage or routine bumps & knocks or whether it comes with is own protective case. For $99 or $150, it should have it’s own storage case.
Brett
1. How does it account for blade thickness? Does it need to be separately calibrated for that?
2. It occupies the safest place to put your hand on that side of the cut. Even in that 97 second demo video you embedded the operator has to put their hand right up next to the blade, far closer than the manufacturer would ever want you to put your hand and closer than I would like to put it if I have any choice in the matter.
Christian R
Hey Brett, you can enter the blade thickness into the device and it will automatically apply it to all measurements. The arm itself does not take up much real estate and your hand can still go in the same position it normally would go
Big Richard
Ditto on #1. My first observation was that it does not take into consideration the kerf of the blade. On the video, he lines up the piece on the left side of the blade, then pushes it in exactly 35.5″ and makes his cut. His piece on the right would be 35.5″ minus the blade kerf. He did take exactly 35.5″ off the piece on the left, if that was his goal. Kerf is generally around .1″, so its not a huge deal, you just need to remember to move it that extra .1″.
JM
Reading the kickstarter page it does include capability to factor in blade kerf.
Big Richard
Touche.
Michael Murphy
A 1″kerf that is some thick blade or is it a wobble set up
John Lobert
You definitely want to throw your money at any Kickstarter project. It is better for the environment than a bonfire.
Kent E Hanson
Haha I’m with you.
Adrian
I was interested in the headline declaring that this is a must have tool, and then very surprised and a bit disappointed to find out that that you haven’t even gotten your hands on one, let alone used it in a real world project.
It’s your site, so I recognize that it’s totally up to you what you post, but as someone who wants to use the site to get real information about tools, I was hoping for something a little more objective.
After reading the article, it sounds like your only source of information about this product is the marketing materials from the company itself. If there’s more to it, then I apologize for making incorrect assumptions.
Thanks for hearing me out.
Just a Medic
Agree with Adrian’s criticism. I used to value this site’s editorial recommendations. Indiscriminate awarding of “must-have” status to a device which the author has not tested, which isn’t even available on the open market, lessens the site’s value to me.
Christian
Youtube “M1 Caliber Review Reekon” – several people have demo units and have been using them
Stuart
3 votes convinces me that my choice in words was flawed – thank you everyone!
Now that I’ve re-read things a few more times, I lean towards agreeing that it wasn’t the ideal choice of words.
Now comes the hard part – how to dial it back a notch.
Here’s where we’re at right now:
New Reekon M1 Caliber Miter Saw Measuring Tool Looks to Greatly Improve Productivity
Less exciting while hopefully still conveying my excitement?
I still mention in the post that it looks like a must-have accessory, because that’s still my opinion.
Lyle
Stuart…I’m sorry if I rained on your parade. It could be a great product, and it’s awesome to know that you get as excited about tool stuff as many of us. I guess I just regard your opinion so highly that a must-have is really what made me think you were kidding. In all seriousness, this doesn’t at all take away any credibility in my opinion, it just shows that you guys are human just like us. Even more so that you read our comments, reply, and then come to a conclusion that maybe you understand why we had questions about your strong wording. Thank you so much for this site and the community that you provide.
Stuart
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Charles F
I still don’t like the thing, but I like the title MUCH better.
Stuart
Thanks! It has grown on me too. Nothing quite like hindsight.
John
I have mixed feelings about this. I do like innovative products and ideas, but the regimen to use this is not necessarily how we all use miter saws. Always sliding the workpiece through the device every time to make a cut seems more time consuming than a tick mark and cut. I’ve never backed anything on kickstarter so getting an early “deal” is not important.
I think the missing product is a universal dead on accurate attachment that is superior to a laser line or even a shadow line, even in bright sunlight. That’s the product needed.
Tim D.
Seems like it would work well for smaller cuts, but who wants to push 30-40” through for every cut.
I could see it being useful, but not for every type of cut.
Lyle
Interesting, I was thinking that it wouldn’t be useful at all for small cuts, but I guess I’m still thinking of how I normally use the miter saw. Normally I have the keeper piece on the left side of the saw/blade. I guess with this tool, mounted on the left, you would feed the wood in from the left, touch the blade, zero it out, and then push the wood farther through for whatever cut you want. In this way, you could use it for short cuts.
I guess this would really probably not work with my setup or with how I normally cut with the miter saw. For one, my saw is on a table that has about 5’ on the left side and about 6’ on the right side (unless I open a door, then I have about 20’ of space on that side). My normal operation would be cutting pieces off of an 8’ 2×4 or a shorter 2×4. My normal process is also to setup stop blocks on the left side for repetitive cuts.
fred
Under the recent post about the new Milwaukee cordless compressor – I quoted Alexander Pope:
“Be not the first by whom the new are tried, Nor yet the last to lay the old aside.”
I think that this old advice applies even more here.
I think that the concept is good – but the execution may need some tweaking.
The price point and size are certainly attractive compared to systems like those from Tiger Stop. If it actually makes it to market and survives for more than its initial production run – we’ll see how actual users like it.
If this had been a tool on the market 10 years ago – with a few months of a track record , I would have talked it up among our lead carpenters. If they thought it had promise – I might then buy one to try out and pass around to test before we bought any more. If you get your hands on one – I’d be interested in your observations on how it works for miter work.
Nathan
for a metal chop saw in a shop or say a pipe cutting stationary setup at a band saw I can see how this might help. In fact I swear I’ve seen something like this before on a mechanized band saw decades ago.
But I think on a mitre saw you will have issues with some cuts. especially things past 30 degrees miter or bevel without making sure you are counting the length run of the side inside the mitre or bevel.
Meanwhile straight on chop saw style I like the idea but I feel it would be too easy to throw off. Absolutely want to see a hand on independent review.
Nathan
OH and one other issue I have – I would want to use it with a hold down clamp
PETE
I saw this on TikTok. Looked really cool and that it looked like it worked really well. Then I kept on scrolling.
Dylan
Finish carpenter for 15 years now…i can easily say this would be an utter hinderance what a terrible novelty…so i have to start the material where the wheel begins and slide it all the way along? I cut 16′ baseboard and crown it would take forever to slide a 16′ piece down the whole length of the stand and under this wheel…also how do you make it calculate for different angles? I could measure mark and cut 4 pieces just as accurate having cut thousands of homes worth of casing closet components baseboard crown mould etc also even worked in cabinet shops for years and ran thousands of cut lists for doors faceframes and cabinet panels… this is a cool tool for that weekend hobbyist who wants to play in their garage and have needless gadgets but for a actual profesional carpenter there is absolutley no place…
Charles F
strong agree. Takes too long for rough work, not precise enough for fine work
MichaelHammer
That’s exactly my first impression. I would need to set up my saw in a 32’ space. That’s crazy. And like lots of readers have been saying, you keep the left piece, unless you’re left handed. Like others, I have deep concerns for miter and bevel cut accuracy. Very often the first operation is to square the left end of the piece, then slide it left, measure it, mark it with a crow’s foot (not a speed square, that’s idiotic) and make the cut. There is so much wrong with this device, I couldn’t possibly see a professional using this in the field. Think about how they used it in the video, about how you have to slow down to come into a landing on your measurement. I could see having to move slightly back and forth as I try to zero in on my number. With a pencil mark, I can get right where I want to be, touch the blade to the mark and go. Now think about repetitive cuts. Set up a stop block, it can be anything. It could be your truck bumper or a wall. It doesn’t matter as long as it doesn’t move. Now, square the end slide it to the block, repeat. Way faster then trying to zero it in on every cut. I’ll say it again, there is a lot wrong with this design.
Charles F
That’s usually how I do it, but speed square isn’t idiotic… it’s sometimes useful.
But crow foot 95% of the time no doubt
HTG
I’ve backed them. In fact, I got in so early, I got the even lower ‘price’ of $89. I’m really looking forward to getting my hands on it. I originally shared a lot of the concerns others have voiced, but watching a few videos on YouTube and some reviews has shown me that they really seem to have thought of almost everything. Assuming their moulds get made accurately, it is looking good. I think it will save me a fair chunk of measure and mark time.
And thanks, Stuart, for putting these thought together.
Albert
Not right for me, but I’ll give them an A for effort. And I’m glad there are people that are still innovating.
Skye A Cohen
I don’t see how it really works with miters unless each end of your board you’re cutting has the same Angle. If you’re cutting say door casing that has a 45deg on one side and straight cut on the other I don’t think that “zero” could possibly be the same.. right?
Jim Felt
“Is said to be accurate to +/- .5mm).
That’s really not very “accurate” for repetitive cuts.
I’m I missing something?
James C
I think you’re missing the ability to convert from metric to imperial 🙂
Half a mm is about 2/100ths of an inch. I’d say that’s pretty good accuracy.
Lyle
-1/2 for not simplifying your fraction.
*elementary age kids at home. ?
Kent E Hanson
Baaaah haha
Mark
Ordered mine 2 days ago
Eric
I backed this before I saw it on here and I am excited about it. I use a similar system as XYZ DRO on my mill and it is fantastic.
I figure this and my existing flexvolt miter saw will give me a lot of options to make fast and relatively precise cuts anywhere.
Chris
For those not concerned about accuracy, It guess it might work, although it seems sort of clumsy to use.
Their stated accuracy is not .02″, its plus or minus .02″. That’s .04″.
I guess that’s fine if you’re framing a house, but no serious contractor is going to use this thing.
Michael
You can’t make less than 1/16″ work?
Charles F
no. Not with any pride. Aside from all the other issues with this.
Do you see that all the pros don’t like this? I’ve been doing finish carpentry for 20 years, and am a gadget nut. But this doesn’t interest me at all. It’s like lasers on a chop saw
JM
I’m not sure what you’re building, but 0.02″ (+/-) seems quite good for a miter saw. Can you clarify what you’re doing now that gets you more accurate than that?
I build fine furniture, and .02″ (0.508mm) wouldn’t be acceptable for that purpose, but I don’t use a miter saw for final cuts for anything.
Charles F
.02 is pretty horrible for a miter saw. I’d expect .005 for jobsite, and well under that for my festool
JM
Charles I don’t understand your response, but want to. How is a saw (itself) rated at any particular accuracy? Isn’t it about the user measuring/marking/cutting?
.005″ is 0.127mm (sorry that’s how I think) – and there is no way I could get that accurate using a miter saw. My metric tapes/measurement devices may go to 1/2mm.
How can you work that accurately on a miter saw? I’m genuinely interested / curious.
Charles F
it’s not so much an issue of working to that precision – I should more accurately say its a question of blade slop. Make 2 miters, put them together, and get out the feeler gauges.
I want my miters to be table saw quality, at least in the shop. In the field, I still want the long ones to be tight. The bosch glide was fine for the field, but not the shop, so sold it and bought Festool.
Think of why you use a miter sled – I want that same accuracy on the chop saw.
Stuart
0.005″ is well beyond what I can achieve manually with a miter saw.
If you’re dealing with 0.005″ tolerances, short-term wood expansion likely starts to become an issue.
Charles F
yes, I should have been more clear. I’m not measuring to .005, I mean the cut needs to have that level of slop, no more, or any miter over say 4″ (number made up) starts to not look tight.
As for measuring and taking off tiny amounts, I do it the old school way, by pressuring a tooth. This can remove an incredibly fine amount with practice, though I’ve never measured precisely.
Wood expansion is always an issue that has to be design for of course. But the goal is airtight joints. Or piece of paper for many, which is .003 to .005 by recollection. If you can effortlessly pull a piece of paper through your joint, I’d argue it’s not tight.
Lyle
The saw is going to make the cut wherever you put the piece of wood. The real question is how does the wood get marked and placed for this cut. The accuracy of this device doesn’t depend on the saw, it depends on the user programming the blade kerf accurately, and being able to properly position the pice of wood after rolling it through the device.
For repetitive cuts, I’m thinking that stop blocks are going to be far more precise (all of the pieces are the same). You might roll that piece of wood through and get the numbers on the screen to be the same, but since it relies on moving parts and proper calibration, this is what gives it a +/- rating. You’d have to be a bit careless to get discrepancies with stop blocks (like getting some dust in between somewhere).
Accuracy depends on the user setting the stop block to exactly what the measurement is.
Nathan
I’m sorry what are you measuring with again. you use a rule marked in 32’s down the entire length.
accuracy vs precision. I wonder how precise or repeatable it actually is.
However accurate – I would think it’s more accurate than my tape measure and width of my 0.7mm pencil mark.
Precision or repeatability is why I often use stop blocks or double up my cuts on the mitre saw.
Chris
I guess I was thinking more about repeatability. Maybe the case is that its more repeatably precise than +/- .02, but its just not that accurate (relative to a given measurement).
Think about using that tape measure marked with 1/32’s (which is .0312). You need 2 pieces 12″ long. Make your mark with your .7mm (.028″) pencil. Maybe your mark isn’t at exactly 12″, but its not 1/32″ off, because if it was, it would line up with the next tick mark. Now which side of the line do you cut on? The fact that this is a consideration means that you know you can intentionally cut a something roughly +/- that measurement. Maybe you miss your mark just a hair, but with a little care, I’d say this method can easily result in +/-.01 accuracy all day long.
Do I need to be that accurate framing a house? Nope. But am I going to roll each stud through this contraption to cut them? No.
Lets go back to those two 12″ pieces. Say they’re a top and bottom piece of trim. I use this roller contraption to cut each to 12″, and I get 11.98 and 12.02. This is going to leave a noticeable gap. Did this save time over cutting one piece based on a pencil mark, and then doubling the piece to make my second cut? I don’t think so.
Lets say I need 16 pieces 36″ long. I think the time to set up a stop block would actually save time over rolling the pieces through this, and they’d all be the same.
I just cant come up with a scenario where this saves time, and is sufficiently accurate.
Koko The Talking Ape
Somebody help me out. I don’t see how this will save space in the workshop.
Say I have an 8′ board I want to cut into 2′ pieces.
With this thing, I put the board on the left of the saw, slide it past the dingus until it reads 20″ (I’m ignoring the distance from the dingus to the saw, and the width of the blade for now), cut, then repeat. So I need 8′ to the left of the saw and 2′ to the right for workshop space. Ideally I have infeed and outfeed supports of some kind.
With the usual stop blocks, I would put the board on the saw at about the 20″ mark, and slide it until it hits the stop, then cut. Slide and repeat. So I need about 6′ to the left of the saw and 2′ to the right.
Maybe the dingus saves me the need to have a FENCE to the right of the saw to mount a stop on. But you don’t need a fence for a stop. Once I used my garage wall for a stop, when it turned out to be about the right distance from the saw. I just shimmied the saw around a little until it was the right distance. Roller stands held up the cutoffs.
Also, this dingus goes against the general rule that physical things are more accurate than numbers, meaning you use things like bar gauges, transfer calipers, a complementary workpiece, or a stop to lay out cuts, instead of numbers like 2.046875 (2 3/64ths).
RCWARD
Do you get your money back if it’s a bust? I don’t think “Shark Tank” would go for this one . “ I’m out”
Jack S
Anytime someone tells me that I “must have” a new tool raises an alarm and, quite honestly, immediate resistance and skepticism. Further, saying that without hands-on proof of its value is a second alarm. I searching YouTube as above and see multiple headlines along this same “must have” and “wow, it’s great” theme – third alarm. And risking (yes, risking) $99 on an unproven and undelivered product raises a fourth alarm. Fifth alarm, is the company reputable? (e.g., Milwaukee, Makita, Dewalt, Festool, etc.) Sixth alarm, it doesn’t fit in all situations so you need to remove it, then re-install and recalibrate it. I’ll stop with the alarms here.
Re the product, it could be a time saver in limited situations when precise accuracy is not needed (sorry, mho). For example, I cannot understand how repeated cuts on a miter saw can be any faster or more accurate than with a stop block. As for mitered cuts, I will continue to rely on my pencil mark(s) to get a precise cut – length and angle – until there’s a product which has the crowd acclaiming it.
I’m not saying this is not a good product, but rather it is a concept product looking for a market. But hey, if it works as claimed and folks get a positive return on their $99 payout, go for it. As for me, I need some of those alarms silenced.
Stuart
I wish more people shared your approach. Too often it’s “I want one” or “I can’t use it, it’s crap” with few in between.
My “must have” labeling stems from my knowing about this for a couple of months and then running into many situations where I wish I had one. If you look through my post titles, I try to be as descriptive and non-embellishing as possible. In this case, it wasn’t intended as hyperbole, but I do recognize that it’s overused and often shallow terminology.
There are a lot of “this will change how you work!!!” products these days, But in this case, the technology is already proven. This isn’t a magical “see through your walls!!” wall scanner, it’s a precision wheel, a display, a user interface, and a clamp.
I’ve seen digital miter saw fences and measurement systems in the past, but nothing quite as accessible as this clamp-on device, which fueled my excitement, even without yet seeing it in action.
This IS a “generation 1″ product. It’s probably not perfect. There might be an unforeseen issues or frustrations down the road. The question to ask is whether its use and functionality in the meantime are worth the investment. If you’re on the fence, wait until your alarms and concerns are addressed.
Consider a DIY project I worked on recently, where I needed 2x4s cut in half. Out came the measuring tape and a pencil and then marking knife for measurements. I didn’t have an 8′ workbench to create stop blocks on, and so each cut was done independently. Being off by 1/16″ means a 1/8″ difference in length between two boards.
Now, let’s say I want to cut a 2×4 into exact measurements: 24″, 30″, 18″, 18”. I always find it difficult to lay out cuts like that precisely all at once, which would mean 4 separate measure-mark-cut sequences. Let’s say I want to cut off the first 1/4″ because it’s rough – I’d have to do that first and then measure. With this, I visualize being able to cut the end off, zero the device, and then make my four cuts in a faster and smoother sequence, and with less eyeballing of the cut line indicator shadow to perfectly accommodate the kerf with respect to my measurement.
I can do it manually and with little error (usually), but this looks to provide a faster and easier way to do to.
But here’s also the complication – if you want this tool, buying/pledging it now will offer some savings. Buy later, and you’ll have to spend more. It’s a risk, of course, and you have to weigh the benefits.
There were tools and other products I wished I bought as part of Kickstarter fundraising campaigns when they would have been priced far lower, and others where I didn’t mind waiting for retail pricing and availability.
Further complication is that retail units won’t be in the field until after the pre-purchase opportunity passes.
If it works well and to your benefit, ordering as part of Kickstarter support pledge will save you money – assuming MSRP stays where it is. If it ultimately wouldn’t work to your benefit, or there’s a big problem with how it works (but what kind?), waiting is the better choice. All interested users will have to weigh the decision for themselves.
My goal will be to address any red flags or alarms, not to tell you whether to buy it or not, but to give you the info you need to determine that yourself. Unfortunately, I can’t do that at the moment, and so all I can do is share my hands-on impression as it is now.
Matt
I couldn’t figure out how to reply to this tool post aside from replying to a comment. I hope you don’t mind me replying here.
I won’t be buying this, since I don’t think it would have enough use from me to purchase in the type of work I do, but all the people decrying it’s usefulness to others because it is something they can’t see using themselves makes me want to make the light hearted response on behalf of those who do want it and see uses for it….
“They hatin’, we rollin”
Stuart
Update: Point taken, title changed.
Thank you!
michael
Recently splurged on the Bosch 12” dual sliding mitre (I believe the same as in the video). Any, I was shocked, ABSOLUTELY shocked that this expensive, high end saw DID NOT come with a laser. NO FRIKKEN LASERS!! Will buy, kick starter price seems reasonable.
JM
Have the same saw. Check out https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Miter-Saw-Shadow-Line/ – $12 (I think) and 15 minutes and you get a really good shadow line. Works great.
Charles F
that’s the bosch axial glide from the looks of it. Thought mine came with a laser, but honestly the Bosch system is junk. I pitched them in the trash immediately. Only good laser type systems are Festool and Milwaukee. But truth is, I still prefer the old school way which is just as easy, for anything requiring precision
Charles F
I might have been unclear above – by bosch system I meant the bosch laser on the miter saws
JoeM
…This is a “Specific Type of User” tool, isn’t it? The idea seems… What’s the word?… Well-Intentioned?… Honestly Considered?… Anyways… I can see where they wanted it to help, and why… I agree with that intention.
Couple problems… There’s an awful lot of stuff that gets front-loaded on a Miter Saw. Far more than gets side-loaded. So… Without trying to discourage the idea of it… Why is it designed for the least-common orientation for use?
Second issue… Umm… Is that metric error rate accurate? Half a Millimeter is actually a lot of error, since it’s plus or minus half, it means it can be ENTIRELY off by a millimeter… That’s the full width of a thin-kerf blade. In fact it’s the width of my 108 tooth particle board blade for my 6.5″ DeWALT DCS391 Circular Saw… I know, different saws, different blades, but… The point I’m trying to make is… In Metric, that’s a Blade’s Width error. That can be enough for a Miter to not meet flush with a surface.
Do you Americans hate the rest of the world that much, that Metric common sense measurements are deliberately bad on US-Made tools? I didn’t think that was true, or ever thought it was possible… but… That’s a lot of error in Metric. Personally… I think this would work better as a clamp-and-beacon combo. Load (Whatever) in whatever direction. Drop the beacon on the board, look at the screen, move the beacon until it’s at the point you need it, move the board so the beacon is under the blade, and all the measurements match. Remove beacon, Cut, Repeat. Can’t have errors when you’re moving an actual object an absolute distance from the reader.
It’s so late it’s early, maybe I’ll look back on this comment after getting some sleep, regret it, and say so underneath. Not sure. I AM sure the inventors had good intentions, and this wasn’t meant to be garbage in any way. They were definitely trying to solve something with this.
Chris
The stated accuracy is consistent between the standard and metric units (.5mm roughly equals .02″). I tried making the same point above, that the accuracy isn’t adequate for a lot of work that I could see using this thing for. I think that when people who are used to working with fractions see “small” decimal numbers, they assume a high level of accuracy.
fred
That’s why I suggested to Stuart that I would be interested (if he gets one to test) in his impressions about how good it is for miter work. I was questioning if it would produce consistent results for tight fitting miters on casings and decorative moldings.
I can see how it might be OK for framing work – repetitive cutting of studs, blocking etc. – but I am a bit skeptical that you could use it cutting repetitive picture-frame-style wall moldings
JoeM
Yeah, I apologize, as hypocritical as it might be, I see the Metric, and the Imperial just looks like gobbledygook to me. I didn’t bother to even pull out a conversion calculator to see if they equated.
But, just looking at the Metric… a 1mm error at the base of a Miter, could equal something like a 4 or 5 cm length shortage at the edge, or even an edge that is too thin to hold even a staple to fasten it.
I admit my off-the-top-of-my-head math is bad, I’ve never been good with the actual symbols and numbers, just the visual shapes and results. And I certainly don’t want to discourage this item… or… This… CLASS of item? Accessory? Attachment? Utility? What are we calling this kind of item? Because it’s more than just a calibration meter, or accuracy measurement tool… It includes a physical connection to both the tool, AND the material… Honestly, this doesn’t really fall into the same category as, say, a Ruler, Caliper, or Distance Measurer. Whatever it is, it’s nice to know someone has thought of the first generation of it, in the hopes that this is not the final one of its kind.
Now that I’ve slept on it, I have to say I’m not interested in THIS one… Especially the Kickstarter factor… I have a lot of problems with the Kickstarter model of products, and how they come to market. But, I do hope they get funded, and they make enough to develop more like this as a company.
Come to think of it… I think my half-witted beacon idea was off base. Or, off center I should say. Perhaps if this clamped to the FRONT edge of the saw, specifically underneath the front edge, right in the middle. Then you place a beacon on whatever side you’re cutting off, at the length you need it cut. Then you just cut it and let the beacon fall with the piece you want (maybe it’s slightly sticky somehow so it can be retrieved from the piece cleanly for the next cut?) the distance from the front meter is a Hypotenuse, the backstop is the 90 degree right angle… The little device finds B by calculating A^2 and C^2, instead of relying on the direct contact of a wheel. We know even small, underpowered, microchips can do math more accurately than rounding up or down sensors and friction grips. Plus, the calculation for the processor is faster than the analog-to-digital conversion of potentiometers and grip wheels.
Sorry, most of my training is in Computers, my DIYer and Maker experience is nowhere near as old as my impulse to “Just make the Computer calculate it” training.
I like the IDEA, but this isn’t developed enough. This wasn’t even ready for Kickstarter yet, if I’m being honest. I wish it was further along so more answers were available.
Stuart
Why would an error exaggerate when dealing with miters? If the miter angle is off, then yes, a small deviation at the inside edge is amplified at the long edge. But with linear error, there might only be a linear shift, preserving the angle if the saw is calibrated properly.
My biggest concern wouldn’t be individual miter cuts, but situations where you might have a square frame or box and all four joints need to line up perfectly.
Complaining about imperial vs. metric system is a fruitless frustration. It is what it is, deal with it.
JoeM
When side-loading a saw? Forward slippage at the cut point, Grip slippage at the Meter, Depth errors at the extreme angles, leading to the narrow edge being so thin it breaks off, all of these leading to the reading at the side being off physically, but not digitally.
Front-Loading a piece entirely lacks this uncertainty, because you are directly pressing the flattest possible miter against the back fence. 1mm error remains linear from the front, but the side can lead to slippage, as the larger mass has to be constantly pushed back to the rear fence. The device is poorly placed to have that big a possible error.
And, frankly, since I’m Canadian, not American… Metric does matter. There’s nothing to “Deal With”… I’m already in a Metric-using zone, which is effectively the entire planet except the US and one or two tiny African nations, last I checked. Metric is Superior, Universal, and Easy… That is what it is… What’s taking Americans so long to see this, THAT is the question. The only time WE have to deal with Imperial is, oh yeah, bringing stuff from the US. The very same quality control problems you USA folks have with other countries, we Canadians have with you. Nearly nothing you make is to spec with what we use. So, it matters.
Dennis W McMillen
Is the Reekon M1 Caliber Miter Saw Measuring Tool still a go for Dec. 2020?
Stuart
Maybe? I’ve asked for an update from the inventor/manufacturer.
Rodney T Java
I invested in the Kickstarter campaign and waited many months before it finally arrived. I had great expectations. However, after receiving it and trying it out, IT WAS A BIG MISTAKE! I’m 65 yrs old and have been the “trade” for a long time. and know about tools. Not intuitive to operate. No one can walk up to their chop saw and figure it out without reading the “hokey” manual for 15 mins. Even then they won’t make it work correctly
Christian Reed (REEKON Tools)
Hey Rodney, as mentioned in our email exchange, happy to answer any questions you have as well as work through any issues you are facing. The M1 is a very easy to setup and use tool; while it is certainly non-traditional when compared to a tape measure, I am confident we can get you setup and running! Please feel free to reach out again with any questions or check out our support site here: https://reekon.zendesk.com/hc/en-us