Zachary wrote in about a new Ridgid angle grinder deal at Home Depot:
I was in Home Depot today and saw that they are now selling a combo pack of two 4.5″ Ridgid angle grinders for $79. Thought it might be a good thing to mention.
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I saw the same deal online, but was on the fence about whether it was worth posting about. On one hand, two grinders could be useful. You could equip each one with a different grinding wheel or accessory, and quickly switch between grinders rather than having to switch accessories back and forth. On the other hand, some users would benefit more from buying a better grinder, or a single grinder and some quality consumables.
The combo comes with (2) Ridgid R1006 angle grinders, complete with wheel guards, grinding wheels, side handles, flanges, clamp nuts, a spanner wrench, and operator’s manual.
These grinders are engineered with 8A motors and spin at 11,000 RPM. They’re equipped with a slide switch and spindle lock for easier wheel changes.
Price: $79 for the 2-pack, or $50 each
Buy Now(via Home Depot)
Compare(One Ridgid R1006 grinder via Home Depot)
It doesn’t look like the grinders come with a cut-off wheel guard. It looks to come with a Type 27 wheel guard, which is used with grinding wheels, but I believe it’s generally required or at least very strongly recommended that thinner cut-off wheels be used with a Type 1 guard that provides greater protection against shattering.
When I shop for corded or cordless angle grinders, I make sure that there’s a Type 1 guard either included in the package or available as an optional accessory. While all grinding wheels and discs can fail, thinner ones can fail more spectacularly, hence the need for greater guard coverage. Type 1 guards also prevent users from applying loads against the surface of cut-off wheels, as they’re not intended to be used in such a manner.
This combo bundle looks like it could be a good deal for anyone in the market for 2 basic angle grinders, and those who don’t intend to use them with cut-off wheels. Other brands occasionally have similar promo bundles, such as Bosch.
If you’re not very familiar with angle grinders, keep in mind that this one has a slide switch. Others have paddle switches. Some brands give you a choice between slide and paddle switches. Slide switches are on/off, which you might not want. If you take your hand off the tool, such as if it kicks back or binds and wrestles itself free, you’ll have an angry and dangerous grinder on the loose. A paddle switch must be actively squeezed in order to power the grinder, which can be safer, but fatiguing for very long cutting or grinding tasks. Some brands have paddle switches with on/off features.
fred
Your point about grinder safety and using an appropriate type guard (be it for one of these angle grinders , for a straight grinder like the Milwaukee 5223, or a bench grinder) should be well taken. A defect in the wheel – or misuse can cause serious injury. Your other point about imposing a load on the side of a cutoff wheel – also applies to many grinding wheels where the manufacturers caution against side-grinding. In pictures of old-time metalworking shops – you saw a man at a grinding station wearing a face shield, gloves and a heavy leather apron – rather sensible protection from flying debris – especially if a wheel failed. Fas forward to some residential jobsites and you might see a tile worker – wearing no PPE but cutting and edge grinding tiles with an angle grinder.
IMO – the soft start feature on many better angle grinders also improves safety. Using the right grinder for the job is something to be considered – and pushing a small (4 or 4.5 inch ) grinder when you really need a 7 inch machine or a straight wheel grinder might also put you at added risk.
http://www.tools-plus.com/milwaukee-5223.html
Stuart
Good point. Glasses or goggles + face shield and gloves should be worn at a minimum, although I’m not sure what the current safety standards and recommendations say about aprons or other body protection.
fred
Our requirement for working around hot metal (molten material, welding, sparks flying etc.) and/or high voltage electricity – was that all clothing (including undergarments) worn must be natural materials (e.g. cotton or wool) and that over-garments (coveralls, jackets and so on) needed to rated for flame retardency. We used a uniform service to provide and clean this sort of PPE. I’m told that there is lots of evidence out there that many synthetic fabrics (were not talking Nomex – but the rather the stuff you might buy at the department store) will add to potential injury by melting and/or propagating flame. In today’s market – the heavy leather apron might be nice – but some might find it offensive – and others way too costly. Our treated denim jackets and coveralls plus welder’s gloves and sleeves worked for us.
Farid
We are required to wear Nomex and/or non-flammable treated cotton when working in high voltage areas and near the pot-lines in smelters. This includes underwear. Polyester (Fleece), Nylon, and other synthetics can catch fire very easily and can melt and stick to the skin, which makes healing much more difficult.
I have a class IV coverall suit. It’s nice to wear when it’s below freezing, but it stifling to wear even on a nice spring day.
As I recall, I don’t OSHA mentions anything about using aprons when using hand tools. A heavy apron can be a life saver when using certain tools.
Brandon
Do you have to have underwear with a cotton drawstring instead of an elastic waistband?
Farid
@Brandon LOL
Farid
Excellent safety points, Fred.
Stuart: I am glad you brought up the slide switch issue. I was about to pull the trigger online, but not anymore. I thought that by OSHA requires a constant pressure switch on grinder with 2″ Diameter wheels or larger. If so, then these grinders are not targeted for pro use? That would be an odd offering of two-pack for home use, don’t you think?
BTW, the spec on these does mention a safety clutch to prevent kick-back.
Mike
Slide switches such as these aren’t any less safe. It has to be locked forward manually to stay on continuously, and that isn’t possible while you are gripping the switch itself. In other words in can be locked on if desired, but acts as a momentary switch unless you intentionally do so. Let go of the switch otherwise and it turns off.
logan
There are Type 27 cutoff wheels that work great, and they use the same guard as a standard grinding wheel. Norton and SAIT are two mfrs that come to mind.
Lock on triggers like this are dangerous for the reasons Stuart pointed out. As far as regulations go, I’ve heard of more than one jobsite that has completely banned any grinder that has a lock on feature. Even a paddle switch with a lock on button isn’t allowed.
I’ve seen a few too many guys who got hurt bad from grinder accidents. Lock on might be nice for a long cut or taking down a fat weld, but safety is more important. I got rid of my toggle switch grinder for a paddle one when I had it kick and try to tear my jacket off. Lose control of a paddle and it turns off.
Stuart
I’ve seen those Type 27 cut-off wheels, and believe I have 2 in a toolbox somewhere – expired by now.
But I don’t think I would trust the safety of such a combination anywhere as much as I would a Type 1 wheel guard with Type 1 cut-off wheel. It’s a way to use cut-off wheels with Type 27 guards, but you don’t gain any of the extra protection that a Type 1 guard provides.
Nathan
is there maybe something to the naming convention – angle grinder vs grinder/cut – off tool?
I ‘ve noticed recently some items are labeled that way – especially cordless devices. angle grinder/cut off too. or small angle grinder
does the other protection cup from the other ridgid product fit this item – I bet it does. for 2 for 79 I’d probably try one if I was in the market for an angle grinder – as it stands I have one so I don’t need another. well unless I buy a 6 inch
logan
They’re cordless cutoff tools because most drain the battery so quickly when grinding. The new Makita XAG03Z is brushless, so it should last a while. I got to use one, and it felt strong. Took as much pressure to stall as my corded grinder. Had to bury it. It removed stock pretty well for an 8500rpm grinder.
The naming could also refer to included guards. Most cutting wheels found at big box stores are Type 1, and would need a type 1 guard, while most grinding wheels are Type 27.
These are items you’d be better buying from a welding store than from Home Depot.
Nathan
looking in Lowes yesterday I noticed that even some corded ones are labeled as small angle/cut-off tools. the porter cable on the shelf seems to be the only one that comes with 2 different guard ends.
also all the others – including the pricer porter cable – seems to have these click stop rotating guard cups. having never shopped for an angle grinder I’m curious – does anyone have a link for these group 1 or 27 guards that everyone keeps talking about. is there perhaps some universal guard?
Stuart
I have seen more cordless angle grinders being officially described as cut-off tools, and when they are, they typically include both guard types.
Here’s a good example of a Type I guard. Notice how it is designed to surround half a cut-off wheel along the top, edge, and bottom.
A Type 27 guard only covers half a grinding wheel on the top and along the edge.
With both, the covered edge faces the user, who grinds or cuts away from themselves.
Bill K
Good discussion and points on Safety. Good reminders for all!
At first glance this Ridgid grinder @ $40 to $50 looks to be identical (switch, transmission casting, +) to the $20 to $25 Harbor Freight model. I assume all are made in China, so what’s the real difference? Anyone ever done a tear down comparison to actually see what the difference is?
logan
In the case of the ones mentioned in the article, they are 8 amp grinders. The HF is a 4.5 amp. These will have more power, and should have beefier armatures allowing for some more abuse. Dewalt grinders (4.5″) can go up to 13A, and Makita grinders are 6A+ (usually 7.5). Not to mention that a 4.5A grinder would bog down obnoxiously easily.
I know that between Porter Cable and Dewalt grinders, the grease in the gear case is cheaper in the PC. Mine sounded like a chainsaw, and burned up like a cheap cigarette. Dewalt has many similar looking parts, but at least the industrial ones are made far superior.
I’ve not done a teardown, but talking to guys who use a lot of grinders, the HF ones burn up constantly. The difference will be in motor construction. Gears are hardened regardless of brand, so the armature design and quality is paramount. Similar molds for handles and gear case components tells very little about internal quality.
Nathan
some are meant to be serviced – I noticed on some of the dewalt and milwaukee ones seem to have covers in the gear box that appears to be for servicing. IE clean – relube etc. I’ve done so with a dewalt grinder I was given – it’s got to be some 20 years old.
also motor brushes are replaceable some cheaper ones are meant to be tossed.
logan
Side note, for those curious as to why anyone would need 2 grinders. Many rig welders have at least two – one for cutting, and one for grinding. When you’re paid by the job, it’s easier, and faster, to grab a grinder set up for what you need at the moment, be it cutting or grinding. It’s a time saver that also helps prolong the life of the tools (no single one is getting the beat down)
Bill K
@ Logan – Thanks for the reply and info. This data point supports that HF grinders are effectively not much more than a GSO (or Grinder Shaped Object)…. buyer beware.
Farid
My last corded tool from HF was not a grinder but a router/drywall cutting tool.
A few minutes into using the tool, the The cord got really hot under the strain relief and melted, exposing the the copper wire. I was lucky I was wearing gloves at the time. Upon examining the wires, the wire consisted of half dozen very fine strands of copper – about the equivalent to 24AWG wire. I can’t see how the tool was ever approved for sale. Never again!
Jerry
I won’t buy a 4 or 4 1/2 angle grinder unless it has a paddle switch, with a spring loaded safety toggle that prevents the paddle from moving unless it is pressed. I have had careless or possibly misguided co workers somehow put away a flip switch locked in the on position, and the grinder kicked on as it was plugged in. Maybe not a concern if you are the only user, but it only takes one accident to go from all thumbs, to no thumbs.
As far as brands, though, I think Ridgid is pretty good for the money.
skfarmer
2 4.5 inchgrinders? four is the minimum………. set up wire brush, grinding wheel, flexible grinding and cutoff. the 5 inch and 9 inch are always close by as well.
me
And a flap wheel and a straight wire wheel for weld flux.