Ridgid recently launched a new 18V cordless track saw, and I don’t see it as a serious competitor to offerings from Festool, Makita, and Milwaukee.
A couple of readers have asked for my thoughts, and I’ve been having a hard time seeing it as a compelling competing option.
The way I see it, there are two types of track saws – premium models and budget-focused alternatives.
Advertisement
To me, it seems like the Ridgid tries to look like a premium model, but it falls short and has more in common with budget value-focused models.
To start, the tool-only SKU, R48630B, comes with 2x 27.5″ track sections, 2x connector bars, and a track clamp. This gives you an effective 55″ track.
There’s also a bundle that comes with a 60″ track.
Or, you can buy the 60” track later for a little more money. The track comes with 2 connectors. Why?
There’s no escaping buying the 27.5″ track sections as part of the basic tool-only SKU. Like the Ryobi track saw that’s made by the same company, the tracks are presumably split to lower packaging size and shipping costs.
That’s annoying. What if I just want only the uninterrupted 60″ track?
Advertisement
So to get just the 60” track, you have to pay for the 27.5” tracks anyway, and also 4 track connectors.
Premium brands have bundles, but they also sell track saw components a la carte, so that you spend money only on what you want.
The saw has a 6-1/2″ saw blade size. And… what’s the arbor hole size so I know which blades will fit? Ridgid doesn’t list this in their Home Depot product listing, and there’s no listing on Ridgid’s power tools website, only a thumbnail image with greyed-out “coming soon” text.
So Ridgid doesn’t offer replacement blades, and doesn’t make it clear which replacement blades one can get. The user manual isn’t available online.
That’s not a big deal, but it’s again very different from what the big track saw players do. They all offer speciality and replacement blades, but also provide details so that you can source alternatives that will fit.
As this saw has a built-in riving knife, compatibility is going to be specific and important. Even if users know the arbor hole size (usually 20mm for 6.5” track saw blades), the kerf and blade thickness is also important. Some track saws are compatible with standard thickness blades, others are compatible with newer-style blades that are thinner to help manage performance and conserve battery life.
What happens when (not if) I need to replace the anti-splinter rubber cut strip? Ridgid doesn’t look to have any replacements. Yet?
Different brands’ tracks have different anti-splinter strips, and it’s best to buy ones designed for those tracks.
Other brands have such parts available at their many tool dealers. When Milwaukee launched their cordless track saw last year, replacement anti-splinter strips were available from the start.
Which Ridgid 18V batteries are a good fit for the track saw? Ridgid only offers this as a bare tool. Maybe the 5Ah would be okay?
Makita’s cordless track saws are powered by dual 18V batteries or a 40V Max battery. Dewalt has their FlexVolt track saw. Milwaukee has High Output batteries for theirs. Festool has dual 18V cordless track saws that can operate on one battery in a pinch.
Is the Ridgid saw going to be underpowered?
Ridgid has been answering compatibility questions in their Home Depot product page listings, saying that their track saw and tracks are only compatible with each other. If that’s true, it’s very discouraging.
The Ridgid saw starts at $399 for the tool-only and 2x 27.5” tracks with connector rails. Adding a battery (which one?) and charger will add a bit to the price.
The design seems to have all the right features in all the right places.
But track saws are rarely standalone tools. Premium track saws are part of larger ecosystems with blade options, supporting accessories, and replacement parts.
The Ridgid doesn’t look to have any of this. Will they? When? Without a supporting ecosystem of accessories, add-ones, and replacement parts, it’s just another consolation product – a cheaper alternative for when you haven’t saved up enough yet for a Festool, Makita, Bosch, or Milwaukee.
There is a strong market for less expensive cordless track saws, but with compromises and potential frustrations down the road.
I’d consider the Ridgid as a potential upgrade from Home Depot’s Ryobi track saw, or models from brands like Kreg and Wren. But when you can get Dewalt at competitive pricing, or spend just a little more on a Makita kit, the Ridgid offering loses a lot of its appeal.
We’re talking about a $399 tool-only saw that comes with split guide rails, and you have to source a battery and charger separately.
So if you want to know what I would do, I’d skip this one and either go with a less expensive option, or spend more and go with a brand that has better accessory, add-on, and parts support.
A few weeks from now, Makita will almost surely have new or returning promos or discounts on their 18V X2 and maybe also XGT cordless track saws. Unless you’ve already bought into Ridgid’s 18V system, saving you the expense of a battery or charger, Makita’s options offer much more.
I debated whether to sugar things, but readers asked, and this is my opinion.
Some of you might say “well, why didn’t you test it first before forming an opinion.” Okay, let’s say it performs as well as a 36V x2 model, or 40V Max and 60V Max track saws, which I doubt. That won’t change much of what I said above.
Corded and cordless track saws and their guide rails aren’t like regular circular saws; your business with the brand won’t end after they sell you on a saw and track.
Milwaukee launched their M18 cordless track saw with blades, replacement parts, and accessories from the start.
Ridgid has what, one size of split-length track – which everyone must buy as part of the tool-only SKU – and a single size of 60” track saw, with which you also get more track connectors that you might not need. That’s disappointingly paltry.
I can understand the business reasons behind this. But if I were shopping for a new cordless track saw, Ridgid wouldn’t be on my shortlist for purchase consideration.
James G
Not what I wanted to hear but those are good points. I’m bought into the Ridgid ecosystem so I was hoping this would be good. I don’t really have the room for a tablesaw and a track saw would fit my needs better.
TomD
You’re basically the target market from this as far as I can see. Many contractors will have already broken the “only one battery type” so they might not even be interested.
Bob
I happen to own a Ridgid track saw and I think it’s pretty fantastic actually.
Does it have premium power or universal tracks? No. But for bevel cuts it is spectacular. Whether I’m cutting at 90°, 45°, or anywhere in between, the splinter guide remains dead on, which is noteworthy. Also the riving knife is spring loaded and works very well. It is a big step up from budget track saws, and for not much more money.
DaMunk
Man I wish it worked on Makita tracks. I have plenty of those I bought a Wen because I needed one immediately but didn’t want to spend all that money. I’ve used it more than I thought I would do I need an upgrade. I have Ridgid and Milwaukee tools and Batteries. I don’t guess Milwaukee fits perfectly but does work but I want it to fit correctly. When I ordered it from HD instead of sending me one box with two tracks they sent 3 each with two 50 inch tracks. No way I’m changing tracks now.
Tom
I don’t really get the appeal of cordless track saws. I’m never going to run mine without a dust collector, so why is a cord a big deal? It seems like a lot of extra hassle to have to charge batteries and be part of a cordless ecosystem when the corded model gives you more flexibility.
IronWood
In a shop setting you’re probably right. I thought the same about cordless sanders, and then I used one and now I own two. Its just one less thing to set up or manage while working. Probably not worth replacing a good corded tool used in a shop, but if you’re buying anyway or working outside it’s pretty nice.
TomD
I’m surprised someone hasn’t made corded tools where power comes in the dust collector connector.
Would do something to guarantee that the dust collection is actually used, too.
MM
That technology does exist, at least on a smaller scale. Dyson vacuum cleaners, for example, have hoses and rigid extensions that work just like that. The hoses/tubes have wiring and contacts built-in so that it powers the brush attachment without a separate cord. There may be other brands which do this too, that’s just one I happen to be aware of. Come to think of it, my corded Shark vacuum cleaner also has a similar feature. I agree with you, this seems like a no-brainer for someone like Festool or Mafell.
Adam
I think all the major manufacturers have dust extractors that have an outlet to power auto-on functions. High end abrasive companies like Surfprep and Mirka have their own versions as well.
I use corded and cordless dust extractors both in the shop and on the jobsite for sanding and track saws. It’s just one less thing to manage and the 36V Makita track saw rarely runs through 2x fully charged 5ah batteries in a day for my purposes.
Julian Tracy
You’d be surprised at how less of a tangled mess it is only dealing with the hose and not a cord + hose.
And outside, no need to use a vac as these saws direct the sawdust so efficiently, you can throw a planer cloth dust bag on the saw and it’ll fill itself full.
Peter
I had that problem with my Festool setup and you are right it is no fun.
Solution to get a fish net (?) sleeve/hose that slides over the cord and vacuum hose.
Added bonus is that the vacuum hose does not catch on things anymore.
Plus I got it in a matching green.
:-p
MM
Using braided mesh loom or sleeve is a great idea for securing an extension cord to a vac hose neatly!
Adam
I have the 30ft festool sleeved hose with the plug it cord all included in the sleeve, it is on a roll just inside the back door of my install trailer. For on site breakdown or assembly of large cases i can keep the extractor and everything in the trailer and i just open the barn doors and roll that out. Makes it easy to set up a work station on site. The damn sleeved hose is like 400 bucks but it has worked so good and saves me a ton of time. I have been thinking about adding a swing out boom arm to the set up to utilize it better. The sleeve material is rugged but it does get dirty dragging it around on the ground. I only do cabinetry though.
Lyle
I’ve used mine in a parking lot to break down sheet goods that couldn’t fit into my car.
TomD
Cries in “Home Depot used to have a panel saw for that and they’d do free cuts”
I built some plywood furniture with just a drill heheh
DaMunk
I didn’t know they all didn’t, the one I go too has one. Probably can’t find anyone to run it but they have it and a big radial arm saw.
fred
I have an older Festool cordless. But I bought both one Makita XGT and 2 Mafell (91B302 and 91B702) track saws as gifts for some of my progeny. For me the corded saw is fine – being used mostly for breaking down sheet goods in my garage before bringing them down to my table saw for final dimensioning. I almost always use the saw with a Fein corded dust extractor. The only quibble I have with the cord is that it sometimes snags – even though I attach a Festool 489022 (FS-AW) cord/hose deflector on my track.
Franco Calcagni
The gifts you make to your family, that I know about from reading this forum, would make a nice little hardware store. And I am not talking about a set of Husky screwdrivers or a pair of Irwin vise grips, always power tools, and premium stuff!
If you are ever looking to adopt…I am available!
Kent
The one place I see track saws used the most where dust collection wouldn’t be an issue is with deck boards. All the time I see them run long and then they break out the track saw to make sure everything is bang on.
John
A dust bag works quite well for track saws when a vac connection isn’t easy or convenient. You would be surprised how quickly a Mafell dust bag which fits Makita cordless track saws fills up and works wonders. Won’t catch everything but so much better than no collection at all.
Harrison
Sometimes you only have access to one circuit on site. Vacuum + track saw is easily enough to flip a 15amp breaker unless you turn down the speed on one or both.
I’ve also had bad experiences with the sparking commutator in corded tools tripping some sensitive arc fault breakers.
Cordless tools solve both of these issues.
Charles
Because a lot of us use these on jobsites. In the shop its my festool 75. On site it’s the Milwaukee m18. If I’m trimming a door (classic case) I’m doing it on sawhorses outside.
And my m18 shop vac does a good job of dust collection cordlessly. Any of the 3 I own.
Cordless tools aren’t really designed for homeowners, though even in the shop we often reach for cordless first. They are for contractors.
mattd
Ridgid is also notorious for releasing a product and then immediately stopping it’s production, or halting it after less than 5 years.
Stuart
Sometimes this happens in months. Their miter saw disappeared shortly after release and then was re-announced and rereleased a few years later.
Such limited offerings does give rise to the concern Ridgid could make a quick exit, or only offer the track saw seasonally.
fred
Might this have more to do with Home Depot than with TTI (the OEM for this segment of tools bearing the Ridgid brand name)? If TTI is producing a Ridgid-labeled tool for HD – and HD doesn’t like what it sees in sales/profits they may just tell TTI to halt production after some initially contracted run.
The miter saw you cite may have been produced by Emerson (not TTI) for HD – but the same concept might apply.
Julian Tracy
Couple false points made – doesn’t matter who’s anti-splinter rolls of tape you buy, they are all just getting stuck onto the bottom of an aluminum rail. I didn’t care for the Festool clear-ish anti splinter stuff – not as easy of a read for me – so I bought the black Dewalt version. It’s just a self-adhesive semi-Ridgid plastic/rubber tape.
Also – most folks use track saws for sheet good primarily. Has anyone here EVER had a power issue with an 18volt circular saw cutting plywood? Not really, I’d guess. Sure – the riving knife indicates a use for solid lumber, but I’d guess that’s not what m,ost people use their tracksaws for. I’ve been a general contractor/carpenter for the last 20 years and have had numerous tracksaws: Festool, Easy smart, now Makita. Have only ever used them on sheetgoods.
Obviously whether the Ridgid riving knife is easily removed is an appropriate ask though.
As for blade availability – when Makita introduced their track saws – it was near impossible to find the blades for it. Doesn’t help Makita’s website sucks A$$ in terms of generally finding accessories and parts for their tools, but the tracksaw blade was elusive for months. I can’t think of why Ridgid would differ from either the standard 1/2”, 5/8 arbor or the 20mm arbor. Hard to believe it’d be impossible to find blades for it.
These days – whatever tool battery platform you’re it – that’s the specific tool you should probably get. You use Ridgid tools – just buy their tracksaw and move on.
It’s like digital cameras – they are all capable of amazing results nowadays, so don’t worry too much about which one in any general form factor – your talents will be the limiting factor.
Same with tools these days.
Stuart
I’ve heard of incompatibilities before. That’s a basic consumable every track-maker should offer.
I’ve run into cutting power and performance issues with cordless track saws before. They’re not just used for plywood, but things like countertops and other workpieces you cannot easily cut with a table saw or miter saw.
With digital cameras, aside from the most basic point and shoot cameras, you absolutely have to take the system and form factor into consideration. Lens choices are limited depending on whether Canon, Sony, or Panasonic mounts. Adapters are sometimes available.
Jared
I’m not sure it’s fair to say “most folks use track saws for sheet good primarily” and therefore 18 volts is sufficient. While the first part might be true, wouldn’t most prospective purchasers want to know if this was a light-duty model that struggles with denser and thicker material? At least that way they could tell if this was the correct model to buy based on what they’ll be cutting.
I use my puny Bosch DBD181 drill as much as any other (300 in/lbs max torque) because MOST of my drill duties don’t need much power and I like that it’s light and has an easy to control trigger. However, I would be mad if I bought that thinking it could keep up with my heavier-duty 1000 in/lbs Ridgid.
John
Just for casual information, the corded Festool TS55 is notorious for having a weak motor and bogs down in sheet goods, yet it’s been sold and used by thousands of people worldwide for 15 years or longer.
Stuart
Yes, and no.
When I bought my Festool TS55 12 years ago, I learned early in my product research that the TS55 was suited for sheet goods and thinner hardwood, and the TS75 for thicker cuts in harder materials.
I have used it on up to 1.5″ softwood, hardwood, and laminated boards, the same as I expect modern cordless track saws to be capable of cutting. If my track saws are equipped with a finish blade (which is the case maybe 98% of the time), it’s usually easier for me to make tougher cuts in 2 passes than to change the blade to something more suitable.
Bob
You’re right about the blade size. It’s just a 5/8 arbor. It’s actually easier to replace than most track saws.
Also, the riving knife is spring-loaded. There is no need to remove it. I hope the author comes back to this after laying hands on the track saw. I bet they warm up to it.
Stuart
That’s my point. It would *not* be a 5/8″ arbor. If you guess that, you’d be wrong, and out time and money if you bought a blade with a 5/8″ arbor instead of 20mm.
Why would the riving knife need to be removed? What I mean is that riving knives require blades be a certain size, or it defeats the purpose.
It takes maybe 30 seconds to look up the ideal blade thickness for any Festool cordless track saw. Ridgid doesn’t publish the arbor hole size, at least not that I can find, let alone the blade thickness it’s designed for. Seeing as how it’s a single port 18V saw, I’m guessing thin-kerf.
I’ve been spoiled by Festool and other brands publishing any technical specs I might need to know about a track saw, and offering any parts or accessories I might need now or in the future.
If the Ridgid was maybe $399 for the entire package – saw, tracks, battery, and charger – I’d be much more forgiving.
I can’t shake the opinion that it’s too expensive for a value-targeted track saw, and too weakly supported for a premium-priced setup. With a little more care, maybe Ridgid could create a middle-ground option, but I just don’t see that yet.
Bob
You mistake me sir. I own this track saw. In fact I went out to my shop and grabbed it just to check. The arbor size is printed right on the blade.
5/8 arbor.
It also lists the blade size in the manual. I am happy to send you a pdf if you would like to peruse it.
Stuart
Ah, thank you!
Track saws typically have a 20mm arbor.
So you’re saying it’s designed for use with standard circular saw blades? That would explain why Ridgid didn’t see the need to have replacement blades.
Scott
O agree with Jared’s reply, in that’s it not fair to say most folks use track saws for cutting sheet goods. It’s not only contractors who use track saws frequently or DIY users. You’re overlooking the fact a lot of woodworkers are part of the track saw user demographic. Cutting wide panels of hardwood that have been glued up from dimensional stock is a lot easier with a cordless track saw from the premium offerings and a 18 V model from Rigid will be under powered for when I’m cutting through 22″-24″ wide panels of walnut I’ve glued up for a dresser case and I won’t have deflection issues cutting a 45° bevel if it’s a mid century dresser I’m building.
Charles
sheet goods are big. But cutting doors to fit is the classic field carpenter use
John
Virtually every track saw of this type and size uses 160-165mm diameter / 20mm arbor blades. There are plenty to choose. Tenryu has made them for years; they have worked great on my Makita cordless track saw. Before Makita had extra track saw blades, I’ve used Tenryu blades in 2016-2017 going forward and. Owned a Festool TS75 back in 2012 going forward and used Tenryu blades for it as well.
The rail compatibility and short lengths will be annoying, but all the other points are of little concern. 18V is plenty, these saws are primarily for sheet goods, blades will be available if not already from other brands. For owners of Ridgid tools, it seems like a shoe-in for them when they visit Home Depot and pick one up.
John E
On Makitas 2x18V tracksaw the rear arbor plate is removable and reversible and has a 5/8″/16mm lip on the other side to take standard 6 1/2″ blades. You may want to check the splinter strip clearance if you do this but on mine it is neglible (less than 0.1mm).
You can also order the part from the cordless saw to do this on the corded version.
Tomas
The more I’ve been researching this it seems like if the $350ish corded Makita deal comes back this holiday season it’s going to be the one to get in terms of value.
I’m curious how likely you guys think that same deal is going to be back? (I would consider paying a little more for the battery version but I really can’t justify going over $400 for a track saw I may use just a couple times per year)
Dave D.
Factory reconditioned Makita corded track saws (which have the same warranty as new) are occasionally available for about $250 (saw + case, no track). I bought a recon a few years ago and a set of (2) 55″ Powertec tracks for about $130, so for under $400 I had a like-new saw and two tracks. I love recon tools and buy them whenever possible. The Powertec tracks are 100% compatible and are quite good, with the only fault I find being the weak adhesive on the splinter guards. I’ve used double-faced carpet tape to reattach them, but I’ll use Makita replacement strips when the time comes.
Stuart
Corded? I don’t recall seeing any deals on their corded track saw. Maybe there have been, but if so they haven’t been well-publicized over the years.
There’s usually some deal on the cordless track saws, but the exact details change year to year.
I’d say the chances are 80% that we’ll see a good Makita track saw promo (18V X2, XGT, or maybe both) this holiday season.
MKY
Stuart –
“…saving you the ***expensive ***of a battery or charger, Makita’s options offer much more.”
Stuart
Oops – thank you *fixed*!
Saulac
“The way I see it, there are two types of track saws – premium models and budget-focused alternatives.” I may add a third. The track compatible circular saws.
I would refer a good track compatible circular saws over a budget “track saw”. It is too bad that the are very few track compatible circular saw. Makita has few track compatible circular saws and a few circular saws + adapter. I have the 6 1/2 ” cordless with adapter. I have used it on any long cut now, because as they say, once you tracked, you can never go back. I even made a few modifications (not recommended, for safety reason) to fit a 7″ masonry blade to cut stone countertops.
Bob
Tracksaws are for Pros. I use my home-made one 1-2 times a month, and it’s very accurate and the saw isn’t dedicated.
If you whack 4×8 ply every day, I imagine a good track saw is priceless.
Mark
Stuart,
I have a Makita corded track saw which is great even though I have lots of Ridgid battery powered tools.
I think most of your comments were kind of petty, since you have not used the tool.
The 6 1/2 blade and rubber cut strip are pretty standard things to buy. You raise a valid point about the tracks though.
I look forward to you fairly reviewing the saw not their press release.
MM
I don’t think the problem is that this saw needs special blades or the rubber strip–all track saws use those. The problem is that those vital consumables don’t appear to be available for purchase (yet). It’s not a technical problem with the saw, it’s a product availability issue. And you don’t need the saw in-hand to comment on that.
Stuart
I tend to be very strongly opinioned about certain types of tools, with track saws being one of them.
The question isn’t about whether it’s a good tool, but about whether I would buy one. The answer to that is no, and the bulk of the post is to explain why not.
Is this a well-developed tool? Or simply a “me too” mid-priced model so that Home Depot can sell something more expensive than Ryobi and less expensive than Makita or Milwaukee?
Charles
I’d say this applies to just about all of Ridgid actually. Most people would be better off buying either Ryobi or Makita. Ridgid is just a marketers midpoint.
The warranty sounds good but is a pain to claim on. I’ll take Milwaukees real 5 year warranty any day.
Michael F
I think the best comment in this analysis is that a track saw isn’t really about the saw but the system. I don’t see the point of a “consolation” track saw at all. I’m either going to continue using one of my circular saws with a guide or I’m going to actually spend the money for a Festool – not because I expect the saw to be head and shoulders above the Milwaukee but because the system is just so incredible. If I’m buying a track saw at all I want the kind of unique utility that comes from the Festool system with an MFT style table.
John
Hate to burst your bubble, but there is nothing unique about a Festool track saw that 10 other track saws can’t do on an MFT table, connected to whatever brand dust collection. In fact, nothing special about MFT tables, DashBoard makes a better table leaps and bounds over Festool. The only unique Festool track saw feature is the $1K one with a second scoring blade.
Steve L
I have had the corded Festool TS 55 and TS 75 for years. 55 for single sheets, 75 for multiple sheets or dimensional lumber. I was scoring with these saws from day one:
– set blade for 2 mm
– pull backwards the length of your cut
– set blade
– normal cut
Extra time needed?
– better to clamp guide rail to minimize movement
– setting blade depth twice and making two cuts
Once you get in the habit the extra time is minimal – not an incentive to get a new track saw with a scoring blade
Can do this with any track saw to eliminate splintering
Michael F
I know, I know, every time you mention Festool people jump out of the woodwork to tell you why other tools are equal or comparable. To each his own. I will say that a Makita/Milwaukee track saw and a DashBoard are about the same price (if not more) than a Festool saw and MFT table. So it’s an interesting comparison – you’re not saving money at that point.
Steve L
I was trying to show the scoring feature is available with some extra steps using older Festool saws or any other track saw.
for close tolerance interior woodwork I am mainly Festool. I think the “system” has value above that of a single tool.
My MFT and assembly table are DIY torsion box design. Not as lightweight as Dashboard but larger, sturdier, and cheaper. Did use an OF 1400 attached to LR32 guide rail to punch the 20 mm holes
Lyle
Can anyone comment on track compatibility across brands? I know some are compatible. I have a Festool and want to know what other brand tracks might work.
MM
I’d also be curious what tracks are compatible with other tools, like routers.
fred
I’m told that Makita track saws can be run on Festool tracks – but that the Makita tracks have a slightly different geometry built in to work with Makita’s anti-kickback system. So’ if I’m correct, you lose the ant-kickback feature by running a Makita saw on a Festool track.
I also believe that the Bosch tracks and Mafell tracks are for the most part compatible. The anti-kickback strips are of a different color between brands – with some folks saying that the Mafell ones take a pencil mark easier. I also think that I read that Flex uses the same rail configuration.
As far as running a router, circular saw, jigsaw, biscuit joiner or domino machine using a tracksaw guide rail – I know that Bosch makes some adapters and I’ve bought some 3D-printed ones for my Lamello Zeta P2 and Festool Domino machines from a company called Toolcurve:
https://toolcurve.com/product-category/rail-adapters/
Steve L
TSO has a $40 adapter which attaches a Dewalt Compact router to the LR32 guide plate and a LR32 guide rail for punching holes.
Dewalt sells the DWS5031 ($72 on Amazon) to attach a router to a Festool guide rail
Milwaukee has made their track saw so it will work on Festool and Makita rails. The anti-tip feature however will not work.
From what I have read there are differences between guide rail profiles so while you can use Brand X saw on a Brand Z rail I am guessing you should never attach different guide rails
Robert
I run a Mafell cordless tracksaw on Bosch Tracks just fine. A few years ago during holiday season the deals on Bosch made it about 40% the cost of Mafell.
John E
A decade or so ago, you could buy the Bosch 2x1600mm rail set with connector and bag from a store in Scotland called Toolstop for under $130 (no VAT) shipped free to your doorstep in the US. I ordered three. Cut one of them down to make custom lengths. Those we’re the days
Lyle
Wow
Lyle
Thanks for the comments. I’m wondering if anyone has a Festool saw and is using it on another brand of track. I might want to pickup a longer track and don’t know if I’m willing to spend Festool kinda of money if something else would work, especially since the usage is quite low.
fred
Early on with my corded Festool – I found that their rail connectors were sub-par. For long cuts out in the field (like on the lawn of one of my kid’s houses) I could not reliably connect 2 shorter rails and get them to stay aligned perfectly. I ended up buying 1900mm and 2700mm guide rails — the price being a major “ouch”. If I were doing things today, I’d either look to some better aftermarket rail connectors and/or buy a more affordable Makita rail.
Steve L
Bought the Festool 3000mm guide rail for same reasons, the TS75 needs more rail compared to TS55 for same length of cut
When they came out I bought TSO connectors, use with 1400mm + 1900mm rails. . Provides portability the 3000mm will never offer.
3000mm is still handy to pull out in shop.
Lyle
Yeah, I have a 1400mm rail and a 1080mm rail and the official Festool connectors. They work ok. I’m never making precision cuts with them. It’s silly to even think of getting a longer rail with how little use it would get. However, if there was a Bosch, Dewalt, xyz rail that would work and was cheap enough, I’d consider it.
Charles
I have run my m18 track saw on my festool track, so I’d imagine the reverse will work
Josh
I appreciate the insight on this Stuart. I’ve been in the market for one and you have validated my feelings on this particular model. These looked really tempting when first announced even though I’m not on the ridgid system. I’m a facilities guy that takes on in-house projects and not a GC so it would only be used a handful of times a year but would be worth its cost when it does get used.
Harrison
As a physical product, I’m sure they saw will be totally acceptable. A bit slower than the Milwaukee, but it’ll get the job done.
The only reason not to buy it is the same as anything else from [orange] Rigid- It’s functionally a Home Depot house brand, and all the pros and cons apply.
Rigid cordless stuff is great value and known quality, but you never know when Home Depot will get bored and drop a product line.
I only buy stand-alone tools or corded stuff from them- For example I bought a Rigid wet tile saw in a pinch after a bad experience from our local rental shop. It did the job nicely out of the box, and paid for itself on the job. I don’t do much tiling so it’s fine.
fred
Most of the Ridgid tile saws that I’ve seen were made by Emerson Electric (UPC’s starting with 648846) – so if HD gets “bored” – Emerson might still maintain some service parts.
Harrison
Good to know. Hopefully we don’t have any issues with it.
Kent_Skinner
These are issues I’d expect from Ryobi. It’s like Rigid can’t decide if they are semi-pro and “almost Makita/DeWalt/Milwaukee” or budget and “almost Ryobi”.
The 27″ track is an expensive joke.
Harrison
Yeah the track is disappointing. The saw itself is a nice looking unit, but the short tracks are useless, basically a ‘poor man pays twice’ hidden cost.
fred
The Mafell KSS 60 that I gifted – comes mounted on a 30 inch track – and as equipped is fitted out for cutting dimensional lumber for framing. But it spins a 185mm (7.28 inch) blade – perhaps more suited for framing – that the 6.5 inch used on this Ridgid and many other cordless track saws. I don’t see the Ridgid being aimed at the same set of tasks – so I don’t know what’s up with selling it with a 27.5 inch track as standard.
John
Small tracks are easier to package and ship. Also the longer the aluminum extrusions, the worse off bends show. It’s the cheap way out for manufacturers.
fred
I’ve never tried one – but the Mafell roll-up track is intriguing:
https://www.timberwolftools.com/flexi-guide-1-4-m
Robert
Fred, notice Mafell/Timberwolf say on the same page:
“however for ultimate precision, the Mafell Guide Rail System is recommended”
John
I have a flexi-guide rail for my cordless KSS40 and it is very impressive to use but it is not perfectly straight if wanting edge jointing.
John E
That flexible track is quite unique and very ingenious.
I don’t use mine very often, as I usually have a bunch of different length tracks close at hand, but it’s very, very accurate. Length is limited to around 1600mm, I think, and you can’t extend it. I wish they’d make a 9′ one for full sheet rips
Benefit of the roll-up track is portability (obviously) and the fact it’s only about 1/16″ thick so you can rip 2x using the KSS 40/KSS 300 if you have no other saws handy, which you can’t do on the regular FSN tracks.
Stuart reviewed the little Mafell a while back and was ho-hum about it. For me, it gets used more than all my other saws combined. It cuts as accurate and clean as the MT55. Better even. I think that little blade spins at close to 9000rpm; at least on the corded version. Dust collection is 90+% with the onboard bag. 95+% with a vac. It feels like an extension of you hand. Only down side is the price. I love it so much I now have three.
Stuart
@ John E
The Mafell wasn’t bad, it was just too highly specialized for my needs and preferences. It cut beautifully though.
Stuart
I don’t mind that Ridgid has a doubled-up 27.5″ track option. My gripe is that you *must* buy this as part of every tool-only package. So if you want just the continuous 60″ track – or no track if you can figure it some other brand of guide rail it’s compatible with – you’ve wasted funds on the split tracks and several pairs of connectors.
AlexK
Am I missing something? I crosscut 24″ and my Milwaukee track at 31″ is fine, but I think a 27.5″ would also be fine. Doubled up is good for 4′.
Got 2-55″ as well as the 31″, so I’m good for 2′, 4′ and 8′ cuts. Went with Milwaukee rails for the anti tipping feature. As I’m typing this, I realize that the sting of paying for the saw, tracks, track bag and connectors is long gone (because I paid in full) and I’m very happy to have everything I might need.
I run it with a HO 6ah, but I’ve also used it with the regular 4ah batteries and it was fine. For dense, thick wood, I’ll make a couple of cuts, like taking small bites with a router, if needed.
Milwaukee did not have the rail clamps available when I bought my track saw.
Stuart
Milwaukee announced rail clamps alongside the track saw. If I recall correctly they did start shipping slightly after the saw launched.
Here’s everything that Milwaukee announced and then launched at around the same time:
Milwaukee M18 Fuel Track Saw, Tool-Only (2831-20)
Milwaukee M18 Fuel Track Saw Kit (2831-21) – Includes XC 6Ah battery, charger, Packout tool box
31” Guide Rail (48-08-0570)
55” Guide Rail (48-08-0571)
106” Guide Rail (48-08-0572)
Guide Rail Bag for the 31” and 55” Rails (48-08-0576)
Guide Rail Clamps (48-08-0573)
Guide Rail Connector (48-08-0574)
Anti-Splinter Strip (48-08-0575)
Non-Slip Strip (48-08-0577)
24T General Purpose Track Saw Blade (48-40-0624)
40T Finish Track Saw Blade (48-40-0625)
48T Fine Finish Track Saw Blade (48-40-0627)
4T Fiber Cement Track Saw Blade (48-40-0670)
52T Laminate Track Saw Blade (48-40-0643)
josh Morris
I just wish more companies would go for the bosch/mafell track for their track saws
I hate all the stick on rubber bits, if you keep you track in your truck the heat and cold mess with the stick on bits and its awful
Mix that with the amazing track connectors on the bosch setup its a no brainer.
Lookin at you dewalt with your awful single rail design
I use a bosch rial ready circ saw for rough work and a mafell setup for nice stuff but I wish I could get a decent cheaper track saw
Lyle
I have the battery Festool track saw. It does feel anemic sometimes, but I was attributing that to nearly 10 year old batteries that don’t get exercised/charged that often. It could also be that I sometimes cut 3 sheets of 3/4 ply at a time.
I wanted to comment on the blades. I’ve only ever used it with whatever universal blade that it comes with and I don’t have another tool that makes such clean cuts. The only thing that comes close is my Kapex which is also using whatever universal blade it came with. I’ve tried Forrest and Diablo blades for my table saw, but nothing has come close to the smoothness of the Festool blades. For anyone who has used the Festool blade and some other brand that they prefer, can you share what it is, how much it costs, what type of blade, etc?
John E
The Diablo blades are very good. The Freud track saw blades are even better. The original Makita blade that came with my SP6000J is excellent but I don’t think they make it any more. Haven’t tried the Tenryu blades but I’ve heard they are good, but not particularly cheap.
The Mafell blades are fantastic, but make the Festool blades look like they are on sale.
My daily driver is the KSS 40 from Mafell whick uses a 120mm propietry blade. Hard to find alternatives.
Diablo used to make a 4 3/8″ 36 tooth blade with 20mm arbor that you could get for around $13-15 and the are fantastic. Glass smooth cuts in sheet goods. They cut 5mm shallower than the stock blade but will do 3/4″ ply and 1″ composite decking all day. Sadly, they don’t make them any more. The Mafell blade is $95. But none of this matters if you don’t have the KSS 40 or KSS 300.
Found some nice ELU blades on eBay UK very cheap that have 20mm arbor and they make excellent cuts. This was some time ago.
If you have the Makita cordless 36V track saw you can use 5/8″ arbor blades if you flip the rear arbor disc around as it’s designed for this but they don’t advertise it for some reason.
Honestly though, I’d spend the extra money and stick with OEM blades and take care of them. They can all be sharpened for a reasonable fee. I just like to shop around and try different stuff.
Good Tools
” My daily driver is the KSS 40 from Mafell whick uses a 120mm propietry blade. Hard to find alternatives. ”
From the Bosch euro online catalog
2608644003 12T 120mm x 1.3/1.8 x 20mm
2608644004 40T 120mm x 1.3/1.8 x 20mm
2608644497 24T 120mm x 1.2/1.7 x 20mm
These are 20-35€
092558 Mafell 120mm x 1,2/1,8 x 20mm T24
092559 Mafell 120mm x 1,2/1,8 x 20 mm T40
30-50€
John E
I only have one Festool 160mm blade. 28 tooth, I think. It’s decent, but I got better cuts with the ELU blades I bought off eBay.
This was in 1 3/4″ teak and maple butcher block.
Remember that other blades may alter the splinter strip edge, affect the function of the riving knife or even be slightly too big for the saw. Festool typically use a 160mm blade, Mafell and Bosch use 162mm and Makita 165mm. They aren’t always cross-compatible. The newer Festool uses 168mm blades – same as some Mafells. This allows them to 45° 2x stock.
fred
Like you – when I was looking for blades to go along with the Mafell saws that I was packaging up as gifts – I found alternatives to be almost non-existent.
As an alternative to the Mafell 120mm blades the only one that I’ve spotted is a Dart 120208 (GTIN 5055297100242) 28 tooth – 1.8mm kerf.
For the 185mm size – the original blades are only 2 – a 16T rip blade and a 32T crosscut. Both have a 1.8mm kerf. The only thing close that I could find were 1.9mm kerf blades from Makita – B-15148
(24T) and B-15154 (40T)
fred
When I was looking for 6.5 inch – 20mm bore – saw blades as alternatives to what Makita offers – I could find many more choices – that included these:
COMPANY PART_NO TEETH KERF
CMT TOOLS 272.165.36H 36 0.067
DEWALT DT10300-QZ 24 0.065
DEWALT DT10640-QZ 40 0.065
DEWALT DWAF16542 42 0.076
HIKOKI 0037-7181 65 0.075
MILWAUKEE 48-40-0670 4 0.087
MILWAUKEE 48-40-0643 52 0.087
MM
Forrest, makers of the best table saw blades I have ever used by a large margin, have a wide variety of blades for metric saws like Festool, Mafell, and others.
https://www.forrestblades.com/metric-blades-for-track-saws-and-chop-miter-saws-offered-by-forrest-mfg./
They are not cheap, but if those are anything like their table saw blades the “street price” from most dealers is lower than MSRP and their performance is amazing.
John E
Fred, you’re a treasure trove of useful information and it’s always a pleasure to read your input on here.
I did some blade research several years ago vis-a-vis Mafell saws. The 120mm blades are hard to find an alternative for that are actually 120mm. There was one I found in England that I can’t remember the name of now but the price wasn’t much better that OEM.
I’ve used some of the Chinese 4 3/8″ 20mm arbor blades off Amazon that sell for under $10 and they are all junk. The Diablo blade (D036X) is the only one I’ll use that isn’t Mafell but it has a thinner kerf so the riving knife will bind in solid wood, but I’ve never had a problem with plywood or composite decking using that Diablo blade. Unfortunately, Freud changed the arbor size from 20mm to10mm a few years ago while increasing the blade diameter to 4 1/2″ (115mm) so the new version will not fit the KSS 300/40
You mentioned you bought a KSS 60. It’s been on my wish list for some time. So much so that I’ve stocked up on a dozen or more quality 180-184mm 20mm arbor ELU blades that I picked up in England for almost a pittance. How happy are you with that saw? I think I’m on the fence between the corded and the cordless and that’s what’s holding me back.
fred
I think that I said – my Mafell and Makita track saw purchases were as gifts – passing on tools to the next generation in my family. I’ve heard more “wows” about the KSS 60 than the KSS 40. But they went to 2 different recipients – who each do different work. I believe the KSS 60 is being used mostly (if I’m correct) for deck building – while the smaller saw is being used mostly for flooring.
Stuart
That’s why replacement strips and blades (or at least clear and specific sizing info) is important.
Brands tend to recommend that the splinter strip be replaced with every blade change, but I generally don’t unless the edge doesn’t perfectly line up with the blade. I set my tracks on the cut line, and so it has to match up. If not, a new anti-splinter strip needs to be cut to fit.
John
This is buried in almost 90 comments but needs to be stated clearly, kerf is not the primary concern for track saw blades, the difference between the plate thickness and the kerf thickness divided by 2 is the value that needs to be compared between blades. That is the only portion of the blade that exists between the blade mount and splinter strip. Then you will see that many blades will have less than the thickness of a piece of paper difference (<0.004" for standard copy paper). If that is the difference between blades, there is no reason to worry or change splinter strips ever, until they are too damaged to use. Do the math, make a spreadsheet and you will see the issue dwindles away. I am using 2.2mm and 1.6mm kerf blades, but the plates are different thicknesses which reduces the difference in what happens at the splinter strip to negligible. A pencil mark swallows that difference. Only time kerf really matters with track saws is the offcut side opposite the splinter strip.
John E
This is what most people don’t recognize. We’re talking a few hundredths of a mm variation between most blades. I bought some .001″ machinist shims/washers for this adjustment but have had no reason to use them yet. This is while using Makita, Festool, Mafell, Freud, ELU and DeWalt blades on the same track saw. However, I did put a 2.6mm kerf blade on my Makita once and the blade tightening nut would just about rub on the inside of the blade cover when the saw was being plunged. Had to run the nut over the belt sander to thin it out a little. Worked fine on the MT55.
Stuart
@John E
New cordless track saws – with or without riving knives – are designed for use with thinner kerf blades.
Portable table saws often come with two riving knives of different thicknesses. To my knowledge, track saw riving knives are not swappable.
It has also come to light that the saw does NOT work with track saw blades; it’s designed for 5/8″ arbor circular saw blades.
Whatever blades you might have used for Festool, Makita, Milwaukee, Bafell, Bosch, or other track saws will NOT work on this one.
Chris
Amen a man that speaks the Truth!!!
I happen to already have a stock of Ridgid 18v cordless tools. And they’re okay….just okay, from a professional woodworkers view. There’s nothing they do that’s better than anyone else. Except for the availability to most people. They’ll make money off this new track saw, before people realize you get what you pay for. And I’m not necessarily referring to quality, because Ridgid does okay producing quality tools. What they do not do well is offer professional grade tools for woodworking. I can’t speak for their plumbing line up, I’m not a plumber!
Here’s what I did was bought the Bosch corded track saw. Why corded one might ask….well I 99% of the time use dust extraction to minimize the mess and extend my own health. Yes they’re are cordless dust extractors….but if I’m using a cord to charge batteries, why not skip that step and use a more powerful and reliable tool?
Ridgid is what it is….a big box store tool manufacturer….for the masses and not the professional.
fred
Ridgid plumbing tools and some of the Ridgid-brand power tools for the plumbing trades come from an entirely different OEM (The Ridge Tool Company in Ohio – a subsidiary of Emerson Electric). My family was in the plumbing business for generations – probably using Ridgid pipe wrenches since their introduction in the 1920’s. Their design – now copied by many – represented an innovation that has been copied by many. They still represent professional quality – but competitors like Reed and Wheeler Rex also make professional quality tools. To my way of thinking – Emerson’s licensing the Ridgid brand name to Home Depot may have been a lucrative deal – but by allowing HD to go to different OEM’s for non-plumbing tools – it has eroded the brand and may have caused confusion among the buying masses, So , as an example – if you buy a Ridgid brand shovel at HD and the handle breaks – do you blame Ridgid-Emerson – or Ames (the OEM)? Similarly – for Ridgid brand small power tools – made by TTI for HD – who’s at fault if you don’t like the specs or performance?
xu lu
This is one of the very rare posts on this site i find totally pedantic. The criticisms are inconsequential. What will actually matters is how the saw performs. If i had bought into the Rigid battery system, i would be delighted to have this as an option. A track saw is like sex-even when it’s bad, it’s good.
Stuart
If I were exclusively tied into Ridgid’s cordless system, I’d likely feel differently. But I’m not.
Gus
I agree, Stuart is usually on the mark but to not even talk about the performance or actual experience of the product is poor.
Stuart
I meant the title as literally as possible – *I would not buy it.*
This isn’t a review, it’s an opinion piece, and I like to think I explained myself as clearly as possible. I was asked for my thoughts about the track saw, and that’s what I think – that the launch was weak and that I don’t see this as a serious contender to Festool, Makita, or Milwaukee models.
Let’s say it performs as well as can be expected for a single battery-powered 18V track saw. I don’t see that changing my opinion in the least bit. If it were an average-performing track saw – or better even – I still wouldn’t buy it, for the exact reasons mentioned.
Carl
What about WEN cordless track saw?
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-Cordless-6-5-Inch-Brushless-20691BT/dp/B0BR8JNM4X/
Dave
Stuart,
While I agree with your general point that this product is not going to be as good as a Festool level product but is certainly higher quality than ryobi, I think many of the negatives you list in the article are pretty ridiculous. More than half of your criticisms are about you inability to find information about specifications – yet at the time you wrote the review, not only had you not tried the saw, the saw hadn’t even been officially released yet. You yourself mentioned that on the ridgid webpage the tool was “greyed out” and listed as “coming soon”. Don’t you think that the specifications will be available when the tool is actually available? And in fact, now that the tool became available on 8/25, all of those specifications are now available.
You complain “Which Ridgid 18V batteries are a good fit for the track saw? Ridgid only offers this as a bare tool. Maybe the 5Ah would be okay?” Seriously? This is reaching deep for a criticism. You know that the tool will work with all Ridgid 18v batteries, just like every other tool in the 18v lineup. Of course it will work better, with more power and longer life when used with the higher Ah batteries (exactly the same as premium brands).
You also like to note that the Ridgid is built by the same company that supplies HD with Ryobi power tools, suggesting that the Ridgid tool is somehow guilty by association. But I notice that you fail to mention that Milwaukee tools are also made by the same company which produces Ridgid and Ryobi. Are the Milwaukee tools also per se suspect because of the association?
I think you hit the nail on the head when you suggested maybe you should have tested the tool before providing a review. I own many Ridgid tools as I find the lifetime warranty (including batteries) amazing. But, I also own Festool products (domino, rotex 125, dust extractor).
You also seem to be hung up on the track size. I don’t get this. Without a doubt, the most common use of a track saw is for breaking down 4×8 sheet goods. A 60″ track will not be long enough for this use. But a 60″ track with a 27.5″ track added on will be perfect. So, buying the bare tool which comes with the two 27.5″ tracks, and then adding the very reasonably priced $99 60″ track will be perfect for nearly all uses.
All of that said, having used this saw personally, I’d say you are correct that it slots in somewhere between the premium brands and the likes of Ryobi and Wen.
Stuart
The saw *was* available for purchase.
This isn’t a review, it’s an explanation of my opinion. As a tool user, little things can sway my interest in big ways.
If I cannot find the information I’m looking for about a tool, it loses points. If I cannot find information or product listings for consumable parts, it loses points. If I’m stuck buying accessories I don’t want because it’s only available bundled with them, it loses points.
Ridgid 18V and Ryobi are Home Depot house brands. Milwaukee is not.
Milwaukee launched accessories and consumables alongside their 18V cordless track saw. In my opinion, Ridgid should have done the same.
To be frank, I also don’t trust Ridgid’s long-term commitment to any singular product, which could be why they launched this track saw with limited accessory and informational support.
Can you buy Ridgid JobMax tools anymore? MegaMax? Octane? What about their Stealth Force oil impulse driver? Their cordless air compressor? Any 12V Max tools?
Do you know what would convince me of Ridgid’s commitment to their track saw? Consumables, more information, and a lot or tool-only version that isn’t bundled with short split-rail tracks.
You bought one, but didn’t share why. How many people argued with my opinion here but didn’t say “I would buy one, here’s why”?
If someone is not tied to the Ridgid 18V system, why buy this model? I only see reasons not to. Yes, they’re little things, but track saws are big purchases and Ridgid’s launch doesn’t measure up in my opinion.
Dave
Hi Stuart,
I did buy one. These are the the main reasons I decided to go with the Ridgid:
1. It is considerably cheaper than a Festool. ($499 with a total of 115 inches of track, as compared to $699 for the Festool without any track). It’s closer in price to some other brands sale prices (Makita when on sale for example), but being someone who already owns Ridgid and Festool, I was not interested in adding a third brand/battery to my tool mix. As you correctly noted, most people who buy the Ridgid are probably going to be people who are already committed to the Ridgid ecosystem.
2. The new rigid max output batteries provide a surprising amount of power, and from the video reviews of the saw that I have seen, the Ridgid is sufficiently powerful. I watched reviewers cut through 2″ thick walnut with the rigid in a single pass. And while it was a little slow going, it worked. When I consider that 90% of my use will be breaking down 1/2-3/4 inch sheet goods, power was not a concern. Also, I have no problem making multiple passes when cutting thick slabs of hardwood.
You make a valid point that Ridgid seems to continually replace its entire lineup of tools (octane, jobmax, etc.). That said, they still stand by all those tools and all those tools have a lifetime warranty. In my experience, if something breaks they replace it no questions asks. And if the tool in question is no longer available, they replace with with the current tool. All of the 18v batteries are compatible across all of these historical tool lines, so I have not noticed any problem in my use of their tools.
As for consumables like blades, these are not something I would ever buy from the brand that makes the tool so it does not bother me that Ridgid does not offer them. Even with Festool I rarely buy festool blades (the one exception being bits of the domino).
Finally, the one point you raise, that I did not consider and might worry me a bit, is the track. Because the Ridgid saw uses a proprietary track, if Ridge were to discontinue this saw, getting tracks could become a problem in the future. I’ll have to consider this. I could buy a couple extra to be safe I guess, but that starts to cut into the cost savings.
Stuart
Thanks for that, I appreciate it!