I had been combing through older emails (sorry everyone, I’m still waaaaay behind), and found a reader question, or rather a reader complaint, about claw hammers.
Paul’s question could also be considered a request. He basically wants hand tool brands to increase the durability of their hammers. Here, I’ll let him explain it to you:
So I’m a contractor and kinda follow your website every now and then. Really like the content, but I like the fact that the manufacturers kinda pay attention to what you have to say…
I have not been able to find a straight claw framing hammer that will stand up to everyday use. Any ideas on a brand? I have been through Estwing (the classic) and recently a Dewalt 12 oz that “strikes like a 20 oz.”
All of them are junk.
-Claws that are forged too thick to get in between even dimensional framing lumber let alone something kinda thin. Forget about shingles or behind siding.
-Nail pullers that round out – in other words that don’t grab nails… defeating the purpose of a claw hammer.
I might as well start carrying around a 3lb sledge and just beating everything……
I would love to be able to work with a manufacturer…..to solve this problem.
If you have any people to bug about this I would appreciate it cause I don’t necessarily like spending $40-50 on a “consumable” hammer.
Paul’s email came in before I wrote about the new Fiskars Isocore hammers, but the vibration-reducing designs might not address his main complaints. The Isocore hammers also look to have the same thick claws as other premium hammers.
Curved claw hammers are better suited for removing nails, while rip claw hammers, which have straigther claw geometries, are often better suited for demolition work. I can definitely see how rip claws would be frustrating or ineffective for the removal of nails.
I tried to pull out some nails with a rip claw hammer at least once before, and it resulted in a trip back to the toolbox.
As for removing nails, even curved claw hammers don’t often compare well against dedicated nail pullers, which aren’t really that expensive.
Recommended: Vaughan nail pullers, Shark nail pullers
I definitely see the appeal in there being a single tool that works well universally. But, is there such a hammer?
This brings to mind a Husky hammer combo bundle from this past holiday season. It came with a 16 oz claw hammer, for finish work and pulling nails, and a 20 oz rip claw hammer, for heavier hitting and demolition work.
If you’re a pro, which hammers would you recommend? Do you have a one-stop-shop type of hammer, or even just a favorite one-tool-does-most hammer?
I have never worn through a hammer. I certainly try out different sizes and styles (this is ToolGuyd after all), but I don’t think I’m the right person to give advice about this.
It sounds to me that most of Paul’s frustrations are about his hammers’ claws. He didn’t seem to have anything bad to say about the striking faces, although he did say that he hasn’t found a framing hammer that will stand up to everyday use.
While we’re at it, do you have any complaints about today’s hammers?
P.S. That image of the Dewalt hammer at the top of the page? I picked it somewhat arbitrarily, because it’s got a straight rip claw design.
Milwaukee tool Steve
Ive never really had troubles with them.
Very good question, but I need to see some pics of these worn out or broken/disposable hammers. I don’t see it.
I don’t use one everyday though either but all I can think of is odd abuse.
When I do have to do demo work – I use various bars and the like. and a standard framing hammer. I’m sure I’m doing it wrong but between a double ended pry bar and my fubar and a hammer – I don’t know what else I’d need.
now I also have a brass drift in the garage and a rubber mallet and that 3lb sledge he mentions and I can relate to wanting to use that more often.
but how the hell do to smurf up a well made hammer without purposely trying something stupid?
With all respect, you are doing it wrong if you’re using a Fubar. All the Fubars i’ve seen are completely useless and dangerous to try to use. One end is just an axe, the other is a pry bar end that would be useful if you didn’t have to hold onto the axe-like end to use it. All in all a complete waste of money. Just my nickel’s worth.
There are quite a few different FUBAR’s from Stanley. One of them as you say – has an axe-like end to it. I agree that that style is problematical – possibly dangerous to use. The other styles have their fans and seem to fill a niche. One end is sometimes useful for “tweaking” 2x lumber into place.
I see now that there is just the one with the axe end. I guess it just stuck in my mind how dangerous I thought the design was that I couldn’t remember the others. I did actually pick up and look at the big Extreme Fubar, but realized that like all the others, when trying to use the hammer head side, as a right handed person, the pry bar end curves right into my wrist. I put it back down and thought “So close, but they blew it again”.
I’ve had a 19oz Vaughn framer for about 15 years now. My dad bought it for me when I first started working with him building houses. I’ve used a 16oz Stiletto and a 30oz Eastwing. I find my Vaughn to be a happy medium. I learned early on that if I couldn’t remove the nail with a hammer, it wasn’t meant to be removed with a hammer. I’ve snapped too many handles trying to do something with a hammer instead of using the proper tool.
good advice gordon, right tool for the right job. with that being said, if Paul is looking for a durabe hammer with a ripper that doesnt get in the way, and still pulls nails like a beast, is either the Hart 21oz milled face or the 20oz smooth face. The trick in the nail pulling is that both these hammers come with a side nail puller, which i thought was a gimmick before i used it, but turns out this is the best nail puller ive ever had! The reason it works so well is because the fulcrum is basically as close as possible to the work, which really gives an amazing mechanical advantage you can rarely ever find in a rip hammer. my favorite hammer hands down. They also make like 4 other models including a long milled framer i really like and a couple smaller hammers.
The Hart’s a great suggestion.
I have the 23oz on order –
Wow these Hart hammers look really great, side nail pull / side nail strike / magnetic nail set / angled face / thumb indent half way up for tight spaces all at under $30. For the occasional at home use, would anyone recommend a 16 vs 20oz and the Hickory or Steel handle?
Scott in GA
A 16 oz. hammer has a slightly convex head to protect the wood from dimples. A 20 oz. framer has a flat and even patterned head for putting together dimensional lumber that you don’t care what it looks like. Hickory has the rep of being easier on the user, but you can break it if you try (don’t even get me started on shovels when dealing with Georgia clay).
What about shovels and Georgia clay? Is your clay worse than anyone else’s?
I also have a Hart 21oz milled hammer and it could be perfect the side striking face and side nail puller are excellent .But , I like to hold my hammer on the end of the handle and with the angled face plus the curve in the handle makes it feel really awkward to use. If they made a straight handled variant and even did away with the angled face it’d be perfect. Sadly I’m back to my estwing as it just feels better in the hand
Love my 3 lb sledge. (And my 4 lb, and my 5 lb, and 10, and…)
Use a Wonderbar or the like for nail pulling. They’re cheap enough, and work way better to me. Mine pullers/claws have lasted years, but I don’t demo every day.
Maybe the claw on hammers were the original/first multitool?
Let’s assume he knows what he’s doing and give him the benefit of the doubt. That said, I would have thought a framing hammer or claw hammer would be one of the last tools to get destroyed onsite. The hammer head is harder than a nail and most certainly harder and stronger than wood.
Maybe he’s hitting concrete nails and then trying to pull them out?
I think his main complaint was about performance issues, and I can definitely understand that. Looking at my rip claw hammers, they are very beefy. That’s good for strength, not so good for wedging them into certain spaces. And when used on nails, you get almost no leverage.
Have you tried rolling the hammer over sideways when pulling a nail with a rip claw hammer (like 90 deg to what you’d do with a curve claw hammer)? I remember that would usually be my technique on framing nails. It’s not usually very graceful and often results in curly Q nails when removed, but gets around the leverage issue.
Perhaps maybe you can grind down the rip claw?
Bostitch has some hammers with thin rip claws.
A manufacture doesnt want to make a “life long lasting hammer” either. Especially at under $50. A consumable hammer is how they make their money lol designed to be replaced once a year makes them more money. Like cars, manufactures can make them more dependable but then you’ll never need to get them fixed and buy more parts or even a new car.
At the end of my working career, I kind of gave up trying to buy the ideal framing or claw hammer for my crews. If I gathered 30 carpenters together – and asked for their thoughts about the best hammer – I’m guessing that I’d get 36 opinions. Some swore by one or another brand – while others swore at it. Wood handle – or fiberglass – or steel – then how about steel or titanium heads – no 100% consensus.
Some wanted to carry their own high-end hammers – and I applauded so long as they did not expect that I’d buy them. I’d spring for something in the $50 range – but not a $200 Stiletto or even a high-end Dalluge. When I was paying – some of the guys would opt for a Vaughan or Vaughan-Douglas – while others wanted an Estwing. I don’t think that I ever heard complaints about the hammers’ lack of functionality. I’m guessing that most guys were not thinking much about its lack of capabilities as a pry bar or nail puller – but rather grabbing their favorite pry bar, dedicated nail puller or Pee Vee to get the job done. I guess they were not conscious of Maslow’s Law of the Hammer which seems to apply here in a bit of a convoluted way.
I’ve always used a wonder bar for removing nails. It works really well and you have two different amounts of leverage to use. The only time I’ve seen anything close to a worn out hammer was when the head and handle were loose. Then you just put a new handle on it.
I’ve been using a Kobalt framing hammer19.98 *on sale*, regularly @8 or whatever.
I haven’t pulled alot of nails with it, but it seems to drive as I expect it to drive. Used to have a Vaughn for 15-20 years, wood handle. It disappeared recently is the reason for the purchase of the new Kobalt.
I would agree that this isn’t really the proper tool for removing nails on the regular, wonder bar, cat’s paw would have an eternal life doing that.
As far as driving nails, my Vaughn was my baby, and I actually ground off the waffles to make it a smooth face, and used it for everything, even some finish work. The only issue that ever occurred is the head would loosen up from time to time.
The Kobalt was purchased because it had the closest feel in my hand weight wise to the Vaughn. It’s lighter, which I’ve learned ain’t a bad thing, to carry all day.
I love my Douglas Tool hammers. I wished I had found them sooner.
I still love my Bluegrass Hammers acquired ~50 years ago. Well used and well loved.
I personally still use old Stanley 100-Plus hammers – both 16oz and 20oz have pulling-style claws. They are about the same vintage as your Bluegrass Hammers.
When I acquired them (mine are made in England) there was an expression about them being in “Bristol Fashion” – which I took to mean that they were well put together. There was also another expression referring to them as a “Birmingham Screwdriver” – which I inferred meant to suggest that the inhabitants of Birmingham had much lower craftsman-like abilities than those of Bristol.
Bristol fashion comes from when Bristol had the best merchant shipping anywhere in the world, hence Bristol fashion means doing something the best or correct way.
Birmingham gets replaced with other towns frequently in that statement, just find any documentary footage from a British car plant in the 70’s, if they weren’t on strike someone is beating on something with a hammer.
Sounds like you need a stiletto. Just got the mini 14, expensive yes, but very well worth the cost. 14 oz solid titanium, will never swing a steel hammer again.
When I first started framing in high school, I bought a 28oz estwing framing hammer and it stood up to everything I have very thrown at it. I haven’t ever bought another framing hammer. It’s been about 6 years since I framed full time, but I still use it regularly as I’m remodeling. It definitely is not the tool for everything. I have always used it in conjunction with a wonder bar for pulling nails and prying boards apart, etc. They work great together for demolition.
Give me a 16oz estwing rip claw hammer, 20″ stanly wonder-bar, dewalt cats paw, and a millwaukee fast back knife, and I’ll get demo DONE.
16oz? i thought those were for thumbtacks
When doing demo all day you want something light enough to not wear you out. I had the Jackson pulveriser for the big stuff…or my FUBAR III (which I got for free from toolguyd 🙂 )
Hart hammers work well for me. They are abused daily and hold up. But I will say I have a hammer that wipes out the rest, my STILETTO.
I once got a Craftsman hammer that didn’t pull nails well, the claws would defkdm on a hard pull at the edges that would grab the nail. Sears replaced it with another of the same model.. Makes me think the first one wasn’t tempered properly as the second one seems almost indestructible.
I know my opinion will be received as blasphemy but after all the hype and reviews I sprung for a two Estwing hammers and I just don’t get the appeal at all. I got a 16 oz rip and a 24 oz ball peen. I know this isn’t a conversation about ball peens but I was greatly disappointed by the fit and finish on both but especially the peen. The grind on the ball end was so horrible and it had their hard enamel slathered all over the ball in an attempt to make it appear smooth but hiding the underlying metal completely not nicely spherical. This meant that after a few whacks the enamel came off in a nice chunk and revealed the off cylinder grind of the ball. Garbage. The rip claw was no better, same issue a overtly thick coat of enamel to hide a terrible grind finish. Again after a day’s work enamel is gone and you got bear terribly finished metal exposed. 24 hours later flash rust on both seeping through the lines of the cracked enamel and seeping deep almost like it got infected by some zombie disease. Now I am not going to be upset they rust, that’s going to happen but this seemed way excessive in such a limited time almost like some terrible stock of metal on both. Anyway I feel a bit cheated buying into the hype of Estwing of years and years past but these current ones are horrible and it feels like they just didn’t care on their QC and got seriously lazy on their builds the tossed these out cheap to capitalize on their old reputation and slapping a “Made in USA” for insult. So in all disappointed here.
Just goes to show country of origin isn’t the only indicator of quality. I’ll hand it to you that estwing’s quality had gone downhill.i picked up an estwing flat bar at a yard sale that claimed to be older than I was, and it’s much nicer than any of the “replacements” I could pick off the shelf at home despot. I’d recommend throwing that poor hammer on a wire wheel for a while and strip off all the crap enamel so you can give the faces some polish. It’s pretty common to have to dress forming tools to their desired smoothness. 200 grit should silk it up into a reasonable hammer. Stock from the factory most estwings are weighty hammer shaped objects, but a few minutes with some sandpaper and a grinder will fix most of its shortcomings, and it’s also a great time to paint it up custom.
Check out the Leborgne Nanovib hammer
Leborgne is French brand and now a part of Fiskars
Seems not as thick as the other
Thanks for the post
My wife has two garden tools (a dibble and a hawkbill knife) from Leborgne. I did not know they made hammers. You learn something new every day.
Maybe Fiskars will bring some of the Leborgne product to the US. We don’t get to see a lot of French tools – but they do produce some good ones like Auriou (Now Forge de Ste. Jeury) rasps, and VAR bicycle tools. Malco is now rebranding some tools from the French-maker Edma , Mayhew is sourcing their hollow gasket punches from a French factory and of-course some FACOM tools are made in France
So you want a thinner claw, but more durability at a lower price? A guy can dream I guess.
I too have been frustrated with the quest to find the, “best hammer.” There are too many factors to recommend a hammer for someone else’s use. That being said I have 3 things you can try.
1. Keep multiple hammers and chose the one best suited for task at hand. (ie roofing hatchet, general purpose, framing, demo)
2. I personally like Estwing hammer and occasionally sharpen the rip claw (of course there is a limit to how much you can sharpen).
3. Lastly keep in mind no matter how durable, expensive, or well engineered a hammer is realize they have a life expectancy/ need maintenance like any other tool. (There is a reason companies sell replacement handles and hammer face caps.)
Now you all have me wanting a new Hammer, and I don’t even need one. My 16oz Stanley FatMAX Anti-Vibe suits my needs fine, but now you have me questioning whether I need a new/better one.
MY Suggestion is this: Get a TRADITIONAL design. No new innovations, or revolutions in the design of the head. It’s when you get into all these re-inventions of the wheel that you get the crappy designs that don’t, and CAN’T last. Ergonomics is one thing, but the actual work surface has worked right for centuries now. So a Hammer has a more comfortable handle, so what? It doesn’t mean a thing if the head can’t do the job. So, go with the tried-and-true design, and the only updates to it that count are how comfortable your Hand is. Never go with the ones trying to do more than that.
I do finish carpentry and love my Stanley Fatmax rip claw hammer. The claws are thinner on it and I pull or pry just about anything I need to. I know that there is a framing hammer made like this as well. It’s the yellow handled one not the black if that helps.
I prefer my Estwing 28oz for formwork, demo, framing, and other heavy work. No issue with the straight claw pulling nails. But I also keep a cat’s paw on me just in case.
For finish work, I have a 20oz Stanley antivibe straight claw. Works well. Prefer it over a claw hammer.
My Dad prefers his old 16oz Craftsman red handle claw hammer. He’s been using it for 30+years and goes to it for most things, even some demo. He has an old 28oz Estwing that he uses for heavy work.
It is all personal preference. And when they wear out, replace them.
I used to think I was a one hammer man. Then I discovered the drilling hammer, the engineer hammer. Then the dead blow, then the ball peen, the tack hammer, then the differences in 12-16-20 etc ounce heads, in rip and bent claw. Who said a hammer was just a hammer? Theres so many kinds of hammers and mallets and each is the right tool for a job.
I like my Estwing. I like my Fatmax Anti-Vibe. I like my great uncles True Temper. Heck I even like my dads hollow handles crap hammer that he’s used on projects around his house for the last 25 years.
Here is an inventory of some of the types and sizes of hammers and mallets we had in our different shops:
TYPE SIZE COMPANY PART_NO
HAMMER – ALUMINUM 50 OZ. THOR HAMMER 05-A314
HAMMER – BALL PEEN 2 OZ. STANLEY 291B
HAMMER – BALL PEEN 4 OZ. STANLEY 54-004
HAMMER – BALL PEEN 8 OZ. STANLEY 54-008
HAMMER – BALL PEEN 12 OZ. STANLEY 54-012
HAMMER – BALL PEEN 16 OZ. STANLEY 54-016
HAMMER – BALL PEEN 24 OZ. STANLEY 54-024
HAMMER – BALL PEEN 32 OZ. STANLEY 54-032
HAMMER – BALL PEEN 40 OZ. STANLEY 54-040
HAMMER – BALL PEEN – DEADBLOW 16 OZ. STANLEY 54-516
HAMMER – BALL PEEN – DEADBLOW 24 OZ. STANLEY 54-524
HAMMER – BALL PEEN – DEADBLOW 32 OZ. STANLEY 54-532
HAMMER – BALL PEEN – DEADBLOW 50 OZ. ESTWING CCBP50
HAMMER – BRASS 2 OZ. LIBERTY 61.01
HAMMER – BRASS 2 OZ. SE 830BH
HAMMER – BRASS 9 OZ. GLEN-DRAKE TH#2
HAMMER – BRASS 11 OZ. GLEN-DRAKE TH#3
HAMMER – BRASS 14 OZ. GLEN-DRAKE TH#4
HAMMER – BRASS 16 OZ. STEELEX D2749
HAMMER – BRASS 24 OZ. PROTO 1430
HAMMER – BRASS 32 OZ. STEELEX D2750
HAMMER – BRASS 40 OZ. NUPLA 30025
HAMMER – BRASS – DEADBLOW 12 OZ. HAWK PH214B
HAMMER – BRICK 12 OZ. ESTWING E3-12BL
HAMMER – BRICK 13 OZ. BETA TOOLS 1376B/300
HAMMER – BRICK 16 OZ. MARSHALLTOWN BH760
HAMMER – BRICK 20 OZ. PLUMB 11502
HAMMER – BRICK 24 OZ. STANLEY 51-435
HAMMER – BUSHING 28 OZ. DASCO 145
HAMMER – CHASING 6 OZ. GFC 37.194
HAMMER – CHIPPING 22 OZ. LINCOLN ELECTRIC K-923-1
HAMMER – CLAW – PULLING 7 OZ. STANLEY 51-613
HAMMER – CLAW – PULLING 8 OZ. SLAYMAKER 10921
HAMMER – CLAW – PULLING 10 OZ. STANLEY 102-1/2
HAMMER – CLAW – PULLING 12 OZ. ESTWING E3-12C
HAMMER – CLAW – PULLING 13 OZ. STANLEY 51-350
HAMMER – CLAW – PULLING 16 OZ. STANLEY 51-411
HAMMER – CLAW – PULLING 16 OZ. STANLEY 51-616
HAMMER – CLAW – PULLING 18 OZ. RIDGID RH18
HAMMER – CLAW – PULLING 20 OZ. STANLEY 51-353
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING 16 OZ. STANLEY 51-716
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING 18 OZ. DOUGLAS DFI18S14CX
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING 18 OZ. KLEIN 807-18
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING 20 OZ. PLUMB FA571R
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING 20 OZ. STANLEY 51-944
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING 32 OZ. STANLEY 51-840
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 14 OZ. STILETTO TBM14RSC
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 15 OZ. DEWALT DWHT51138
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 16 OZ. DALLUGE 7180
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 17 OZ. DEWALT DWHT51411
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 19 OZ. VAUGHAN CFB2HCM
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 20 OZ. ESTWING E3-20S
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 21 OZ. DALLUGE 2110
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 22 OZ. ESTWING E6-22TM/WH
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 23 OZ. VAUGHAN 103-00
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 24 OZ. DEAD ON DO24C-G
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 25 OZ. SURE STRIKE MRW25LM
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 26 OZ. DALLUGE 2600
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 28 OZ. CRAFTSMAN 38-093
HAMMER – CLAW – RIPPING – FRAMING 30 OZ. ESTWING E3-30SM
HAMMER – COPPER 8 OZ. GRIZZLY G8075
HAMMER – COPPER 4 POUND THOR HAMMER 24-5706N
HAMMER – CROSSPEEN 3.5 OZ. STANLEY 1-54-077
HAMMER – CROSSPEEN 6 OZ. STANLEY 1-54-070
HAMMER – CROSSPEEN 10 OZ. STANLEY 1-54-001
HAMMER – DRILLING 2 POUND ESTWING B3-2LB
HAMMER – DRILLING 40 OZ. PITTSBURGH 67816
HAMMER – DRILLING 3 POUND GREAT NECK DH3
HAMMER – DRILLING 4 POUND STANLEY 56-704
HAMMER – ELECTRICIAN’S 27 OZ. BETA TOOLS 1379F/20
HAMMER – GLAZIER’S 4 OZ. C S OSBORNE 1066 BF
HAMMER – GLAZIER’S 5 OZ. BETA TOOLS 1372
HAMMER – LEAD 16 OZ. COOK 120
HAMMER – LEAD 48 OZ. COOK 130
HAMMER – LONDON PATTERN 8 OZ. AMAZONAS 22
HAMMER – LONDON PATTERN 14 OZ. STUBAI 1005 C-3
HAMMER – LONDON PATTERN 16 OZ. AMAZONAS 28
HAMMER – PICK 16 OZ. STANLEY 54-251
HAMMER – PLANISHING 14 OZ. GERMAN MADE 77-30
HAMMER – PLASTIC FACED 3 OZ. ENKAY 905-C
HAMMER – PLASTIC FACED 3 OZ. STANLEY 57-593
HAMMER – PLASTIC FACED 12 OZ. VAUGHAN SF12
HAMMER – PLASTIC FACED 14 OZ. PROTO 1360
HAMMER – PLASTIC FACED 14 OZ. PROTO 1383
HAMMER – PLASTIC FACED 32 OZ. SK HAND TOOL 8632
HAMMER – RAISING 11 OZ. GERMAN MADE 77-50
HAMMER – RIVETING 4 OZ. E.B. No. 2
HAMMER – RIVETING 7 OZ. STANLEY 54-231
HAMMER – RIVETING 6 OZ. BETA TOOLS 1370F/24
HAMMER – RIVETING 12 OZ. STANLEY 54-462
HAMMER – RIVETING 16 OZ. STANLEY 54-463
HAMMER – ROOFING 25 OZ. STORTZ 83-B
HAMMER – RUBBER FACED 24 OZ. VAUGHAN RM24
HAMMER – SCALING 20 OZ. STANLEY 1070-H
HAMMER – SETTING 12 OZ. STANLEY 54-452
HAMMER – SLEDGE 24 OUNCE ESTWING E6-24CP
HAMMER – SLEDGE 2 POUND ESTWING E6-32CP
HAMMER – SLEDGE 2 POUND PITTSBURGH 69226
HAMMER – SLEDGE 40 OZ. CRAFTSMAN 38262
HAMMER – SLEDGE 3 POUND PLUMB 11528
HAMMER – SLEDGE 3 POUND SLAYMAKER 13024
HAMMER – SLEDGE 4 POUND PITTSBURGH 69240
HAMMER – SLEDGE 6 POUND LUDELL 11306
HAMMER – SLEDGE 8 POUND HUBBARD
HAMMER – SLEDGE 8 POUND JACKSON 1217300
HAMMER – SLEDGE 11.5 POUND STANLEY 57-554
HAMMER – SLEDGE 12 POUND NUPLA 27130
HAMMER – SLEDGE 16 POUND WOODINGS-VERONA 77331
HAMMER – SLEDGE 20 POUND WILTON 22036
HAMMER – STONE MASON’S 2 POUND TROW & HOLDEN HTHD (LUND4)
HAMMER – STONE MASON’S 3 POUND BONTOOL 11-840-B10
HAMMER – STONE MASON’S 4 POUND TROW & HOLDEN HMH4CTBE
HAMMER – TACK 5 OZ. STANLEY 166 (5.0 OZ.)
HAMMER – TACK 5 OZ. STANLEY 54-601
HAMMER – TACK 7.5 OZ. STANLEY 166 (7.5 OZ.)
HAMMER – TILE 2 OZ. SUPERIOR TILE No. 3
HAMMER – UPHOLSTERER’S 6 OZ. STANLEY 54-602
HAMMER – UPHOLSTERER’S 180 GRAMS BETA TOOLS 1373/180
HAMMER – UPHOLSTERER’S 7 OZ. C S OSBORNE 0036
HAMMER – UPHOLSTERER’S 12 OZ. C S OSBORNE 0175-M
HAMMER – UPHOLSTERER’S 12 OZ. C S OSBORNE 0277.5
HAMMER – VENEERING 14.5 OZ. ARNO 705688 (DICTUM)
HAMMER – VENEERING 16 OZ. KUNZ VT511
HAMMER – ZINC 5LB. 8OZ. HAMMER WORKS M 5.8
MALLET – DEADBLOW 5.5 OZ. SORBOTHANE 0575487
MALLET – DEADBLOW 8 OZ. VULCAN DB8
MALLET – DEADBLOW 10 OZ. NUPLA 10-004
MALLET – DEADBLOW 12 OZ. SORBOTHANE 0575490-70-20
MALLET – DEADBLOW 20 OZ. SORBOTHANE 0575493
MALLET – DEADBLOW 22 OZ. SK HAND TOOL 8601
MALLET – DEADBLOW 32 OZ. NUPLA 10-020
MALLET – DEADBLOW 32 OZ. SK HAND TOOL 9132
MALLET – DEADBLOW 50 OZ. VULCAN DB50
MALLET – PLASTIC 2 INCH DIA. TAVY TOOLS 6110
MALLET – PLASTIC 2.1 INCH DIA. TANDY 1818
MALLET – PLASTIC 2.5 INCH DIA. GARLAND
MALLET – RAWHIDE 1.75 INCH DIA. C S OSBORNE 0395-3R
MALLET – RAWHIDE 2 INCH DIA. GARLAND No.4
MALLET – RUBBER 1.75 INCH DIA. S.M.S. INDUSTRIES 92
MALLET – RUBBER 2 INCH DIA. CRAFTSMAN 4578
MALLET – RUBBER 2.5 INCH DIA. WALBOARD TOOLS CO-2A – MALLET
MALLET – WOOD 2 INCH DIA. C S OSBORNE 0090-5
MALLET – WOOD 2.5 INCH DIA. LINK-STAR LS-3
MALLET – WOOD 5 INCH FACE HARRIS TOOLS 109522
I love my Vaughan 20oz hammer I got from the Home Depot, which also came bundled with their “Superbar” pry bar. Totally satisfied with it, though it doesn’t get a TON of use.
Everyday carpentry use – I haven’t ever had a problem with an Estwing. Maybe the vibration is a lot sometimes, but that’s about it.
I have a few hammers in my rolling tool chest. My rip claw (demo) hammer is a True Temper I purchased in 1977 at the direction of my construction site supervisor. I still have this beast and it works as well today as the day I got it.
Swedish brand Hultafors has the best hammers, hands down.
I can spend all day doing demo with a Craftsman or Estwing steel shank rip claw hammer or a flat bar in one hand, end nippers in the other, and dikes & linesmans on my belt. Pulling nails is no problem with a rip claw because I maintain the nail-pulling slots semi-sharp and I can use my linesmans or a scrap of 2x under the head for leverage, but usually I use the nippers. If I find I don’t have to hammer the flat bar wins out, but if I do my rip claws can kinda act like a flat bar.
True Temper Rocket hammers were better than anything made today. You can find them at garage sales and flea markets.
I have one I’ve been using 40 years only problem is the rubber on the handle has come loose and the end of the metal has poked through its a 16 oz curved claw my dad had a blue grass he used most
Get a Martinez or a stiletto, if you don’t mind spending a pretty penny. I’ve had my Martinez for about a year with no complaints and I do industrial concrete carpentry every day.
Wandered into this randomly, but I’ll through in my 2 cents. Like every other carpenter I’ve ever known, barring 2 old guys with toy hammers, I use the 20 oz flat face Estwing Straight claw rip hammer. Same one I’ve been using for 20 odd years now. It’s perfect.
I’ve pulled umpteen thousand nails with it, though a nail puller would be my first choice. I do sharpen the claw every once in a while.
It’s the perfect hammer. Even the knockoffs like the Bostitch are fine
These dewalt hammers are extreme.. I have one carpenter of 30+ years best hammer on the market