Since we’re on the subject of router tables today, this seems like a good time to talk about “safety power tool switches,” which are somewhat pricey but convenient additions to certain benchtop tools and machines.
A lot of power tools come with such switches built in, usually with a push button to turn power on and a large and easily-actuated paddle connected to the disconnect button.
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Most router tables are equipped with handheld router motors, and the controls – such as their power switches – are often very difficult to reach, regardless as to how the routers are mounted.
A safety power tool switch is basically a remote power switch, usually with female and male AC plugs. You connect the router motor – or similar type of handheld tool – to the female plug, instead of directly to an AC outlet, and then connect the male plug to an AC power source.
If you have ever seen a lamp with an inline switch, that’s basically what this is.
With a switch like this installed, you can activate or power down your router table motor from the front, side, or other convenient location, rather than having to use the router motor’s built-in switch.
The one shown above is from Rockler, and is regularly priced at $30 on sale.
I ordered my first one for a router table, and recently ordered another one for a benchtop CNC router that uses a Dewalt trim router.
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This isn’t only useful for routers and router tables – it can also be used for all kinds of other equipment where you want a remotely accessible power switch.
Rockler says:
No need to panic with our hands-free panic button.
I suppose that’s what makes this a safety power tool switch, that you can easily bump the stop/off part of the switch due to its large target area.
I’m not inclined to consider this a safety switch, I consider it more of a convenience accessory. True safety switches, in my experience, feature latching e-stops and sometimes also removable keys to prevent unauthorized access.
But, it can make things safer. What do you think is safer, turning off power to a router table via a switch like this mounted to a convenient place, or taking your eye off things to bend underneath the worksurface or inside a cabinet trying to get to the built-in power switch?
Other brands offer similar accessories, usually for around the same price.
You can also buy individual components – the switches themselves, for integrating in your own DIY switch setup. I considered this, but I don’t think there’s a lot of savings in building something similar from independently sourced parts.
I like that the Rockler accessory is ready to go right out of the box, and that it’s rated for a 15A load.
This is NOT a magnetic switch. Rockler says it’s compatible with soft-start routers.
Electrical Specs
- 110V
- 15A
- 2-foot female power cord (for connecting to the tool)
- 7-foot grounded male cord (for connecting to AC power)
I felt reluctant in buying this the first time, convinced that surely with more research I could put together something as good or better for less money, but I gave it a shot and things have worked out well.
Rockler says that the switch’s “sturdy construction takes the hits and keeps on ticking.” While I had some hesitations about this, especially the plastic paddle, the switch has held up well so far and their user reviews seem to be as positive as mine have been.
Robert Landrigan
I have one on my X-Carve, and one on my miter saw. Love ‘em. Makes it very easy to insure that things are off, and saves Hunter for power switches in inconvenient locations- and makes sure I turn the laser off on the saw!:)
Chris S
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200884236_200884236
Here it is on sale, $8 cheaper than buying direct.
Here is all the Rockler stuff on sale at Northern Tool w/ free shipping.
Most stuff is cheaper than Rocklers’ own site (even with Rocklers’ coupon), so double check the prices.
Stuart
Thanks! That’s strange, but I’m not complaining!
I wrapped the long search query into a tidy link.
A W
Thanks! The one built into my Bosch router table broke so I’ve been needing to get one of these.
Peter
Nice, thank you for sharing that Chris S.
Kent Skinner
Wow – thanks for the link. I just bought some Rockler dust collection accessories, and I’ll probably need a few more.
Ray
I bought a pair of magnetic ones from Grizzly a number of years ago. I have a table saw with a router table built in and each is mounted where any large body part can hit it in an emergency. Not an optional accessory in my opinion.
Gordon
I have one for my table saw. I mounted it on the left wing. It’s in a perfect place to bump with my thigh/butt when I’m done making a cut without letting go of the pieces. I consider it one of the best upgrades I made to the saw. The Start button is stiff and recessed so it really takes a conscious effort to start the machine. But it’s not kid proof. I sort of wish they had a key system. For now I just unplug the saw when I walk away.
For the router table I have a Treadlite II Momentary foot switch. I like the idea that if I step off, it stops. I have been meaning to wire one into my drill press too. That switch is around the side and if a piece of wood or metal is stuck to the bit, spinning like crazy, I don’t want to be reaching around the side for a switch.
Chris D
The foot switch is interesting. I would be concerned about accidentally turning it on while setting something up. Like if it’s in a convenient place to step when using it, it’s probably in a convenient place to step when doing a set up.
atomic
Yeah, seems like you’d really want a regular switch plus the foot switch. Doesn’t need to be the safety kind with the stop paddle, but just something to lock it out until you actually want it to start.
MPech
That is what I have. Foot switch in series with the hand one. Works well for me.
Gordon
I just kick the pedal under the workbench if I’m stepping away. But I also switch the router off for any setup, especially changing bits. I think unplugging is a better habit to get into though. I do that with my table saw.
JimW
If you are looking for extra safety, you can wire it so the foot switch acts as an emergency stop when both hands are occupied. For this use case you wire a magnetic switch between the foot switch and the motor.
The magnetic switch acts as the regular On/Off switch. However, it is only enabled when the foot switch is engaged. You will need to “rearm” the magnetic switch everytime you step on the foot switch to turn on the motor. So no accidental restarts when you step on the foot switch.
If one hand is free, you just use the magnetic switch. If both are occupied, use the foot switch.
MoogleMan3
I use one of those on my router table and love it. It’s been reliable for years of use.
That said, DO NOT buy them from rockler. The markup is so high on those it’s not even funny.
Peter Antonvich
I printed my own from this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2120449
Peter Antonvich
I build a stand for an old 50’s wood lathe and used it for the estop http://pantonvich.blogspot.com/2019/02/setting-up-aluminum-shopmaster-tools.html
Chris S
I appreciate the innovation and use of 3D printing in projects, that said…
You should remove that and replace it with a true injection molded assembly that is not prone to snapping at the worst time. Looking at the picture, I can see several points of failure. Each arm with the hole on each end has less than a mm of plastic and could easily snap.
If something were to ever happen and you, kids, family, or visitors ever had an accident your insurance would annihilate you in court for negligence at the very least.
AGAIN, This is NOT a part that should be 3D printed because it is not reliable and could end up failing while ultimately leading to dismemberment or death.
fred
IMO a magnetic safety switch is an absolute must on many stationary and benchtop power tools. While a quick easy access turnoff switch is important – you should also be protecting against a sudden re-start if you have a momentary loss of power in the shop.
Adam
I don’t care for paddle switches on MOST tools, but I do prefer the kill switches to be large and located in a clearly visible and accessible location.
In my view, if you don’t have a hand free after making a pass on a machine to safely shut off said machine, then you should probably reconsider your operation from a safety standpoint – it means you’re trying to focus on too many things with your hands, and relying on an extremity to smack a paddle. That could cost you dearly if you lose your balance or simply get distracted trying to hit the paddle with an elbow or knee. Far better to make use of accessories to help guide and hold work as it passes through the machine, complete the operation, move away from the machine, and then attempt to power it down.
Am I overly cautious? Maybe, I’ll grant that, but my actual career relies on my hands to use a keyboard and mouse. A shop accident that results in the loss of utility in my digits doesn’t just put an end to my hobby, it potentially puts an end to my living. That’s not something I’m willing to take a cavalier attitude towards.
MM
In many cases the solution can be to wire in additional E-stop switches in series so that if any of them are activated the machinery is shut down, or utilize a different type of E-stop switch that can be accessed over a larger area. A long paddle or pedal can be made from metal or wood and connected to an E-stop switch. Cable pull switches are another type, they have an eye on the end to attach to a cable or rope of arbitrary length, a tug on the cable activates the switch.
JoeM
I love these things. I only wish the Start button said “Make It Go” and the Stop sign was a curse word with an exclamation point at the end… Because, honestly, as much as anyone who would buy one of these understands the purpose behind its design, many high school shop class students don’t.
Way back in High School, I used to spend more time fixing the equipment, mostly computers and theatre light and sound stuff, than I did actually attending class. Well, one day I was called to the shop class, because nothing was turning on, and they had “Checked Everything they could”… Y’know what it turned out to be? Someone unplugged one of these things. Each major machine had one mounted near them, but there was also a shop-wide backup in case of emergency. Someone disconnected that. Even the shop teacher felt like an idiot when I walked in the door, looked at the big stop sign, and followed it to a dangling cable. I plugged it into the big, honkin’, power extension that daisy-chained off to the other emergency switches, and all the machines started up immediately. They had been hitting the “Start” buttons so often in this attempt to get them running, nobody thought to hit “Stop” before calling me.
So, when dealing with Teenagers, it would probably be helpful, from my own experience with these switches, to have a sticker or something go over Start that says “Make it Go” or “Safe To Go”, and then cover over the word Stop with a censored out curse word with a very bold exclamation mark. Because those are the words they’ll definitely understand with these switches, and a little humour in teaching safety never hurts. It eases the nerves in fact, which will actually prevent a lot of hurt long-term.
But I do love all forms of these emergency cut-off switches. So much so that I built a simple light switch into the power outlets I built into my desk. For when my desk doubles as a small workstation with power tools. One flip down on the switch, and the front power socket just stops. I plan on upgrading this system at some point, with more power sockets, and some lighted emergency switches for emergencies.
To say it’s inspired by these safety switches (Which, I might add, at $30, seems pretty cheap for how essential they are.) is an understatement. I truly do love these things.
MtnRanch
I use one of these on my router table and one on my table saw but they are in addition to the magnetic safety switch. I use it when I change blades or bits instead of unplugging the tool. Most will call me overly cautious but I take a great deal of comfort in knowing that there’s no way the tool could turn on without pressing BOTH switches and it’s a lot easier than unplugging. “A lot easier” translates to “it’s going to happen” instead of “I forgot, I’ll unplug it next time”.
Kent Skinner
A good recommendation, but I have found an even better deal.
Same type of paddle, but it’s also a magnetic switch (it won’t come back on automatically if the power is cut).
https://smile.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71054-Magnetic-Paddle-Switch/dp/B01IEM2DSM
Available in 120v and 240v, for less than the Rockler switch.
I’m on the fence about Powertek quality, but I feel the same about Rockler as well.
Stuart
With the Powertec, you need to assemble your own electrical box with male and female plugs.
A lot of these switches are said to have compatibility issues with standard enclosure types, such as the screws not fitting perfectly.
I believe I’ve seen one or two assemblies that use that Powertec switch, but I figured the Rockler was a safer bet for the same money.
Kent Skinner
Good points. I bough the mag switch for my band saw, and it’s already hard wired to a regular switch, so I don’t need anything extra for it.
I’ll run it for a while, and if I’m happy with it, put one on my Unisaw.
Plain grainy
Sawstop table saw has it standard. I have a 45 year old Sears 1HP router table setup. I need one on that!
Jim
If you’re looking to save money you can do something very similar with a light switch and a junction box. I’ve done that for a few things, including a wall mounted vacuum and and to enable power to my miter saw.
Using a switched circuit on the miter saw was an additional level of safety for kids and any untrained adults that walk by the saw in my garage.
Michael
I’ve had to replace my bandsaw switch twice. First time I got a big old paddle and put it on the side in a new electrical box. A year ladder it broke again. So don’t get this one at least: “Woodstock D4160 110-Volt Paddle Switch”
I was able to find a direct replacement for the OEM with some sleuthing later… one of the benefits of China making all this stuff is it’s often the same stuff with another manufacturer’s number on it.