I just placed a new order with KC Tool, a German hand tool supplier, and it seemed fitting to share my reasoning with you.
Everything was in stock, and it shipped already. I’m a little antsy, and didn’t want to wait for the tools to arrive.
Plus, this will give me a head start in tackling any questions once they do arrive.
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Knipex 95-05-20 Angled Electricians’ Shears
I posted about these Knipex angled electrician’s shears the other day, and was curious about them.
I had placed an order at Amazon, but there was no ETA and it hadn’t shipped out yet. It was recently stocked/restocked at KC Tool, and I couldn’t resist. Plus, KC Tool has it for less.
These don’t strike me as a must-have, but I’m a sucker for ergo-grip and angled tools.
Read More: New Knipex Angled Electrician Shears
NWS 5.75″ Needle Nose Pliers
These long nose pliers were on my wishlist, and I’ve been saving it for a “I need something else to get free shipping” purposes.
I have other NWS mini pliers, with cushion grips, but this looks different – they cost a lot more and so hopefully they are. Are they worth the premium price? Worst case scenario, I could always use more needle nose and long nose mini pliers.
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NWS lists these as discontinued, but I couldn’t find any replacement SKUs.
NWS Economy 4.75″ Chain Nose Pliers
I also picked up chain nose pliers from the “economy” line.
There are “economy” pliers, with lap joint jaws. There are also more premium versions – “classic-line,” and “micro-line.”
Let’s see what these can do.
NWS Classic-Line 4.5″ Chain Nose Pliers
The Classic-Line pliers have a box-jointed pivot design, compared to the economy’s lap joint. Is that worth the price? This model is close to $36 whereas the economy line pliers are close to $23. What do you get for a nearly 57% premium?
If you want to know more about any of these tools, please let me know! It will take a few days once my order arrives, but I should be able to provide early feedback within a few days.
NWS Micro-Line 4.25″ Micro Side Cutter
Lastly, there’s also Micro-Line mini pliers.
I couldn’t find comparable pliers to the chain nose pliers, but these mini side cutters should provide some insights. It seems that NWS Mico-Line pliers are a little finer than Classic-Line.
What’s strange is that Classic-Line and Micro-Line pliers have similar model number schemes, suggesting that the Micro-Line are similar but a little smaller.
Witte 94904 Pro Plus Phillips #2 x 4″ Screwdriver
I have tried Witte screwdrivers before, mostly miscellaneous screwdrivers I found at a Woodworking Show liquidator’s sales bench a few years ago. This will be a nice reintroduction to the brand. Phillips #2 drivers are a great way to judge overall handle comfort and tip quality.
Witte 73035 MaxxPro Stainless Phillips #2 x 4″ Screwdriver
I also wanted to try out the MaxxPro style, with stainless steel shafts.
I’m aware of the benefits of stainless steel tools – reduced chance of corrosion, flaking, or contamination of stainless steel hardware – but haven’t tested them out myself yet.
Do they hold up as well as traditional screwdrivers? Are there any downsides? Let’s find out!
Steve
Stainless steel is interesting- why don’t more companies use this? Are there disadvantages? Would titanium or other metals be better? I’m curious on the chiloice of materials…
Jerry
Stainless is much tougher to temper in such a way as to be both resistant to wear and cracking than carbon steel.
Probably the biggest reason would be cost. When most users wouldn’t benefit from stainless, they become niche tools.
Plain+grainy
Nice for people who work on pumps, band clamps, etc. dealing with corrosive chemicals.
fred
We used SS bits when producing some assemblies. More to do with not wanting to leave any bits of detritus behind that could promote rusting. Sometimes a driving bit (especially cross point styles) might flake off- leaving behind tiny particles that later on can be a source of rusting contamination.
Shane
I was always taught to use stainless steel tools on stainless steel fasteners to avoid fouling and stripping. My experience is mainly with low grade stainless, but they do seem to strip fairly easy with an impact screwdriver bit
fred
@Shane
Exactly.
We were driving SS flat-head machine screws. But we were using torque-controlled drivers from folks like Hios and Mountz.
MM
In addition to this, Stainless is also harder on tooling making it more costly to manufacture parts out of, and in the end it will rarely if ever be as strong as non-stainless steels. Stainless tools are more costly and weaker than their standard carbon steel equivalents. That stainless screwdriver will be great at resisting corrosion but the “plain” steel one will outlast it by a significant margin when it comes to mechanical wear.
As for Titanium, it really isn’t the magical super metal that many people believe it to be. It has about the same strength to weight ratio as alloy steels like 4140, or 7000-series aluminum alloys. Some of those alloys like 7068 even manage to beat Titanium in that regard. Titanium is even harder to work than stainless, it is extremely hard on cutting tooling and it reacts with air at high temperatures so any welding, forging, etc, must be done in an inert atmosphere. It also has problems with galling, and it’s not very hard. It can’t be hardened the way the steel face of a hammer or screwdriver tip can. There are honestly very few situations in terms of tools where it makes honest sense to use Titanium. Most of the time you see it used in consumer goods it’s for the “bling” factor.
Bonnie
I used to work for a manufacturer that did a lot of titanium machining, and people were always surprised at how easily titanium scratches, especially if they’d only encountered titanium-nitride coatings before.
Ryan Guldbrandsen
Eh, I wouldnt say stainless steels are harder on tooling vs non stainless. That would go against your second point of stainless not being as strong as non stainless.
I mean, let’s be real here. They aren’t using non stainless super steels like 10v, k390, 15v, hap72, asp60, s390, zmax or stainless super steels like S60v, S90v, S125v, m390…etc…
Many many many stainless steels are significantly stronger and better vs non stainless steel like 1095, M2, S2. Those are very very low end steels in the world of steels. But alas, it’s the best we can get a screwdriver made from. The tip can only be Soo hard. If it is too hard and strong… Like S90v or k390, you would have to round out the edges of the Phillips head tip. The head would just cut the metal on the screws.
So depending on the stainless steel used, it can definitely be better vs the non stainless being currently used.
For titanium… There are many grades. But besides being non magnetic and being very hard to corrode, there isn’t much reason for titanium bits.
But, most modern stainless steels are going to be much harder work vs titanium by a far margin. Especially after they are hardened. What you said was more true 15-20 years ago. But it’s not because the steels didn’t exist, but because you need things like tungsten carbide bits and diamond to work with these steels. They were significantly less common then. Now you can order high end tungsten CNC bits and diamond plates on Amazon for pretty cheap. So they are…in the last 5 years becoming very popular in knives. So you may need diamond plates to sharpen S90v and k390. But they are going to hold an edge for a very long time. 7-8 times longer vs 1095 “high carbon” steel.
Plain+grainy
The Angled Electrician Shears look like their made for work! Really nice!
fred
I ordered one from Haus of Tools for $42.99 with free shipping
https://hausoftools.com/products/knipex-95-05-20-us-angled-electricians-shears-6-1-4
Jim Felt
As did I after Amazon’s third party vendor* jumped the price signicantly when Stuart first posted about it…
*Chad’s Tool House.
Oh well. Mine was mailed First Class today…
fred
I received mine via USPS today. Glad it was box packed – not clamshell.
I plan to give it away. It is too small for my hands. I can get 2 fingers into the grip loop that is designed for 3 – but I have a problem with many XL gloves too so YMMV.
John
Over the past few months I have purchased quite a few Engineer brand Japanese made pliers and cutters. I find they are some of the best quality pliers surpassing anything in my tool cabinets from NWS, Knipex and more. I have no need for more pliers but I buy them anyway. I do use them all somehow and enjoy them as well. My cabinets have enough tools for several shops. The Engineer handles overmolds are unique and provide substantial gripping in use. Prices are in line or less than the best german made too.
fred
Other Japanese pliers manufacturers are also worth a look:
Bicycle Pliers: Hozan
Electronics: Excelta
Electronics Pliers: Merry Tools
Plumbing: Lobster Tools (aka Lobtex)
Soft Jaw: IPS (Igarashii Pryor)
Specialty: Tsunoda
BigTimeTommy
Seconding Lobster. Best adjustable wrench I’ve ever used. Amazing considering how much less expensive they are compared to Bahco, Irega, et al
JML
The Engineer miniature pliers are excellent; I have all of them and they’re my go-to mini pliers (over about four other makers). The coil spring design is something I like much better than the lever design on competing tools. Excellent workmanship and a good price for what you get. They’re not as polished or as pricey as several of the Swiss and European miniature pliers, but they work as well.
They are the original source for the “Vamplier” lineup, too; good tools to have available to remove stripped and damaged screws. And Stuart likes their scissors, as we know.
Stuart
Hey, it’s not just me!
If you saw how many “wow I never knew about these!!” emails and messages I get after every time I mention them, you’d talk about them regularly too!
Jared
I have to admit I never considered the difference between pliers with a lap versus box joint. There’s usually other factors at play (not the least of which that a manufacturer may only offer one style or the other for a particular plier-type). I’ll be interested to hear your take on it Stuart!
MM
Box joint is stronger because the rivet or “hinge pin” in the center is in double shear rather than single. Also the box joint is better supported against side loads and twisting. I think for most general applications like dikes, linesman’s pliers, basic needle-nose, etc, the difference doesn’t matter much and you mostly see lap joints because that’s cheaper to manufacture. However when the pliers are small and there is side loading or twisting involved then box joints are a common. It’s hard to find box joint pliers at a hardware store, but pliers for orthodontists, adjusting eyeglasses, fine metalwork, or jewelry are quite often box joint. Certain models of high-end electronics pliers are also box-joint, like for forming leads on PCB components.
fred
When you look at pliers for opticians – some vendors offer some styles of pliers in good-better-best classes. Sometimes the move up seems to come with box joints – but other times it seems that it may just be handle styles or grips that outwardly distinguish them.
https://westernoptical.com/search?q=pliers
KEITH L JACKSON
I live 15 minutes from KC Tool and have purchased from them many times.
I think I will pick up the Micro side cutters.
MKY
Stuart –
…NWS mini pliers, with cushion grips, but **this** look different. (these)?
NWS lists these **are** discontinued, (as) ?
…suggesting that the Micro-Line are similar **bit** smaller. (but)?
Stuart
Thanks! *fixed*
The first one… I don’t know. This [one]? This [style]? I fixed the “look” to “looks” to help it seem more natural.
Stuart
I feel bad about any mistake, but I just read an article from a major news organization that read “continuing to conducting.”
MKY
ChatGPT?
Stuart
No – I’ve been seeing tons of errors in major news organizations’ content for a few years now.
It makes me feel better about being fallible.
Although, I sometimes do get annoyed. I’m one person. Major news and media channels have fact checkers and multiple levels of editors.
When I freelanced with magazines as a writer or contributing editor, there were multiple levels of checks and edits.
My back-end software editor used to have better spell and grammar checks, but it was discontinued. I refuse to use 3rd party plug-ins after reading about their data-harvesting techniques. No matter how careful I read or reread my own work, some mistakes will make it through.
Jack D
Spell-check aside, the days of editors in any medium seem to have come to an end, and it’s been that way for years now, regardless of the medium. It’s almost as if the editor went out the window on the first round of cost-cutting, and it shows. It’s a thankless and difficult job, but without it, nothing seems to shine anymore.
You do good work, so that’s beside the point!
Plain+grainy
One of my favorite go-to tools is made by Clauss. They are model #18039(Clauss bonded snips-titanium). Great for opening clam shells, boxes, zip ties, etc. I broke the spring on one pair, might have cut something too large. I’m really addicted to these. The handle lock has a little learning curve, but if you use them enough it’s routine. Around $14.00 !
fred
My favorite for clam shells is this one from Allex (Hayashi Cutlery Japan):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M0E5YO
Harry
Hey is the toolguyd4life discount code going away at KCTOOL?
Stuart
As mentioned in the post, yes.
fred
Most promotions lose their effectiveness over time. If you are always having a sale – then in effect, you are never having a sale. The 10% off was good while it lasted – and may have introduced many Toolguyd readers to KC Tools. So, KC Tools may now feel that the promo is over having accomplished its mission – and is now no longer viable in these inflationary times.
While I never found their prices to be the best on the Internet – even with 10% off (sometimes 20% off on BF) – their deals of the day were mostly interesting and sometimes a bargain. What I do like is that their service has always been first rate.
Joe H
I don’t know if one would really notice a difference between box or lap joint on such small pliers that won’t be put through as hard of use as larger pliers typically would but I’m not a super bright bulb at all so I have no idea. Maybe if someone tries to twist something really tough but needs to use small pliers to fit.
Ryan Guldbrandsen
Stuart,
I would definitely love to hear about your experience with the stainless driver.
I REALLY want to buy some. But, I’m a little scared they aren’t using equivalent steels.
I’m currently trying out weras stainless hex L wrenches. I want to try the torx, but those will be significantly easier to strip vs a hex.
There’s just certain tools I have that I seem to neglect more than others. I can say, I’ve had more than my share of Allen wrenches rust out on me. I now treat everything I buy with 2 coats of Eezox. Which works really really really well as a dry corrosion inhibitor…until you use it… Then the working portion needs retreated.
Stuart
My anticipation is that stainless steel won’t be as wear resistant as alloy steel, and that it’s the kind of tool you buy to fit a specific need. But, we’ll see.
fred
In a production mode – we’d run through an astonishing number of bits.
I don’t recall that we had statistics on SS vs Carbon Steel. When I first got involved in the fabrication business – my assumptions about what tooling should be considered as consumables changed markedly. In the plumbing business we’d hardly every wear out a screwdriver. In the remodeling business – the guys might continue to use Phillips bits too long – until the number of screws getting buggered became an issue. But in assembly work – I learned that you change out bits after so many drives to avoid potential issues. I’m sure that many still serviceable used bits found their way into employee pockets for home use. But at least the more expensive tang-drive bits probably did not walk off before their time.
Jesse
Was curious about the cost of the screw drivers by Witte. MATCO tools sells Witte screwdrivers rebranded MATCO for the low price of $289 for the 10 piece set. (Sarcasm of course) I am a sucker for nice tools though and wanted to retire my 25 + year old set of the old plastic handle, Snap on screw drivers. I absolutely love the handle design of the Witte/ MATCO screw drivers and I am certain you will too. I’m just a little disappointed that I know I waaay over paid for what could’ve been had a more realistic price!
dukefx
Those NWS pliers are rebranded Schmitz pliers, that’s why they are so expensive. They are top quality tho. I have 2 Schmitz pliers, one extra long needs nose (similar to yours, but rounded) and a bent one.