After I posted a review of Milwaukee’s IR Temp-Gun yesterday, an interesting question came up, and it’s one I’ve heard before in different but similar contexts.
Why spend more for a certain brand name tool when something similar can be bought for less?
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That’s really a tough question to answer, as it depends on a very wide range of factors. Are we talking about hand tools or power tools? Layout tools or test and measurement instruments? Power tool accessories, or accessories such as clamps? It really comes down to experience, but also need, budget, and wants.
I have no shortage of stories and examples to share with you, about how I learned about when to spend more and when to spend less. No doubt you have your own experiences to draw from.
All of my own experiences continue to guide my purchasing decisions, but I also draw upon what I have heard and read from others. That’s also one reason you guys rock – readers sometimes base their purchasing decisions not only on my posts, but on your comments and recommendations.
I generally try to find a balance between the best I need and the best I want, although I have grown to dislike buying twice. Because of this I sometimes buy a little more than I need.
So what do you get when you spend more?
Sometimes, nothing. Sometimes you’re simply paying more for the color scheme and brand name on the side of the tool.
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Other times, hopefully most times, there might be real differences, such as in materials, overall design, mechanical design or performance, features, functionality, tolerances, accuracy, precision, electronics, strength, toughness, durability, corrosion resistance, wearability, consistency, reliability, or ergonomics. Some benefits are intangible, such as at-your-door tool truck service or an incredibly flexible and speedy warranty replacement process.
Two tools might look exactly alike, and yet their user experiences might be completely different. Some brands, especially brands without any history in a particular product area, might copy the look and basic functionality of a brand-name tool, without copying the nuances that contribute to a real-world difference.
There are plenty of tools where I am okay spending less, but others where I MUST buy brand-name and spend more. Tool storage, for example, is one area where I try to buy the best I can. Over time, it makes a difference.
I’m finding this to be an extremely difficult topic to write about, as some of my personal tool-buying preferences and inclinations are based on past experiences, my own or others’, but others seem to be completely psychological.
And it wasn’t really until writing out this post that I realized that some of my preferences aren’t exactly tied to personal experiences.
With some types of tools, I climbed the upgrade ladder a couple of times. With others, I jumped straight to the “best I can afford” rung.
I can tell you that I would never use a $10 multimeter, because in my experience they flat out suck compared to Fluke or even Extech’s entry-level models. Cheap multimeters can also be less safe than brand-name models.
But IR thermometers? I have a strong inclination to go with brand names, such as Extech, Fluke, and even Milwaukee, but I can’t tell you why I refuse to pick up one of those $15 models that is offered by numerous foreign brands I’ve never heard of.
Once a brand has earned my trust, that trust can be very influential.
This just means that our experiences have direct and indirect influences on our tool-purchasing decisions. After thinking about and analyzing numerous brands’ marketing strategies, this is probably something I should have automatically been aware of. I guess I never thought about it before, how I can have such deep preferences about certain tool purchasing decisions without having or hearing about directly related lesser tool experiences.
What brands or types of tools are you inclined to spend more on? Why?
Mike
I love the hypocrisy of a lot of tool guy’s who swear by Milwaukee which is owned and made by China but any other tool made in China is crap, so I guess Milwaukee is crap too
Mickey
Correct, Milwaukee tools that are made in China are crap.
Lynyrd
Which is all of their cordless tools and soon to be all of their electric tools.
Jay k.
I wonder how many things you have made in china and don’t even know…
Lenny
Let’s face it, some really nice stuff is made in China, like iPhones. What I think is really crap is a company named Milwaukee that is owned by a Chinese company! That’s crap (and so are their pliers).
Lukas
Obviously you can make good tools in China and bad tools in the USA. I don’t really take issue with a Chinese company making tools in China. Pretty much the same thing as an American company making tools in USA. I prefer not to support American companies that export jobs. I also prefer not to support companies that make crappy tools. I usually don’t buy Chinese made tools, though in the cordless power tool department options are limited.
Will
One thing that gets lost on a lot of power tool buyers is that you’re supposed to give them a break-in period before throwing them into the fire.
Just like buying a new car or bike, you’re supposed to run them at a medium pace for a while before you start using them every day.
Buy a new drill, you run it for 30 minutes at half speed so the brushes can get acclimated. No different than changing your mower oil after three runs…gets the mechanics working.
I think that might be a big part of why so many tools get bad reviews for quitting after a few days.
Brad H.
China can build amazingly high quality items, just our demand for cheaper prices usually results in quality going down.
A wonderful example is the mini lathe industry… Almost all of them come from the exact same factory, yet if you ask them for higher quality better parts they can deliver. The harbor freight mini lathe and the littlemachineshop lathe are from the same company in china, but worlds apart. This comes at a price, but most dudes that use mini lathes will tell you how much better the littlemachineshop lathe really is.
Milwaukee will have better quality china tools than harbor freight. China shouldnt be considered inherently bad, but there are definitely some real crap that flows from them. They make more product than anyone, it stands to reason that they will have an outflow of bad. The real problem is the designers that demand a cheaply priced product to raise the cost of in our markets.
Use your eyes, do some research, determine on your own what is worth buying. Don’t let anyone else tell you your tools suck because they are made in china, especially if you can run circles around those guys using your china tools.
Sean
People that comment on tools on the internet are by far the most xenophobic group I’ve ever seen. It’s crazy that the prevalent view is that “China can’t make quality tools.” This group does not (or cannot) understand the differences between “can’t” and “often chooses not to.”
I think everyone is a brand-whore to some extent. Some people have a more accurate perspective on whether they’re paying more for quality or brand name and by how much. Others literally believe that a $1,000 Gucci bag must be 10x better than a $100 bag and 100x better than a $10 bag (quality-wise).
Sometimes I like paying $20 for the Irwin Vice-Grip brand pliers vs. the $10 Husky version, but I’m fairly confident they aren’t twice as good.
Also, whether I justify the brand-name over the other often depends on whether I plan to use the hell out of it or add it to my “collection.” I don’t know if I’m weird, but my best tools get the least use. I’d rather risk destroying or dirtying up the cheap one first.
Bradley Hanstad
Absolutely. I like my brands too, but it all depends on the tool. I have plenty of good uses for harbor freight tools, and will continue to get the job done with knowledge I am gaining of what works and what doesnt.
glenn
Agreed, the China bashing here is rampant. Its also way off the mark. There are many very high quality products produced there and there are some not so good ones as well but the same can be said of any other country, mine included.
I couldn’t care less where my tools are made, all I am interested in is whether they can do the job and are reliable and durable.
Tomonthebeach
Some tools made in China are crap. So are some tools made in the USA. Milwaukees are designed in Wisconsin, tested in Wisconsin, and then manufactured in China and elsewhere since being bought by an international holding company with an HQ in China.
To me “crap” is determined in the hands of the workman; not the country of origin. My Milwaukee tools are not crap. I find them to be thoughtfully engineered, very durable, amazingly powerful for their size, and generally easy to use. Milwaukee owns a lot of patents on LI battery tools which competitors pay them to put in their tools. That speaks to their innovation.
As Jay K alluded, it is hard to find a tool where all components are made in a single country. We live in a global market, and bits of products get manufactured where the quality and prices are optimal.
My loyalty to Milwaukee is based on my use of their tools. My first Milwaukee was my 7-year old M18 half-inch drill. It has been dropped off the roof several times, installed two large decks and a wood fence, and replaced the subfloor in 4 rooms, constructed walls, replaced drywall and Dura-rock, and used for hundreds of little repairs. Though beat-to-heck on the outside, it still drives screws like a champ. Over time, when a power tool dies, I look first at Milwaukee for a replacement before checking out competitors. Milwaukee usually wins.
As for color and shininess, well, my workshop is tidy; but not a boutique. Every company seems to pick a color and stay with it. After a month in my tool bag, the glitter is usually gone regardless of manufacturer.
Joe G
If you can’t explain why something is better, then overwhelming odds say it isn’t better. To use your IR thermometer example, you reviewed the Milwaukee thermometer than is significantly inferior than most $15-$25 generic thermometers in every area except possible the rubber/plastic overmold, yet costs between three and six times more.
Personally, I don’t have the money to throw away on an inferior product for five times as much, so I will only buy a more expensive brand name tool if it delivers significant value over a cheaper one. As you note, that could be durability, functionality, precision, et cetera.
Stuart
Significantly inferior in what way?
On-paper specs?
John
I see this come up all the time, China is crap tools. I think the fundamental reason why China tools are considered generally inferior is because the metal source in China is terrible so that leads to bad tools. However, I don’t think thats been the case in quite some time or at least not a general statement you can make for an entire country anymore. I know that used to be a huge problem even in electronics but workmanship aside from base materials I’ve never really had that big a problem with.
An interesting side note, having worked with mass production in my career and sending specifications for those mass productions, China manufacturing gives *exactly* the specs that are sent, for better or for worse, so if there is an issue or design flaw it will get replicated thousands of times before QA on the states side finds out and has to change the whole line because thats something China manufacturing does not do. It does not to quantitative analysis on submitted specs so if something seems wrong even if they know they won’t “fix” the problem for you.
will
my problem isn’t that a tool made in china is inferior its that they pay these people pennies a day to make a product that they charge $700-1000 for as is the case for the iPhone. I’m going to contradict myself and say that If I made what a person in china made per day I wouldn’t care at all about the quality of a tool. I would get the job done so I could go home to my family but I wouldn’t make any more of an effort than was necessary. Sorry that’s a discussion for another day but that’s why any product made in a 3rd world country causes me to hesitate, it may lead to inferior quality but they aren’t one and the same.
Coach James
According to the National Bureau of Statistics, the average manufacturing wage in China in 2014 was ~$3.50 an hour. Also manufacturing wages in China doubled from 2009 to 2014. Clearly not the same wage as in the US, but far from the pennies a day we often hear.
As to buying Chinese tools, I try not to. My reason is not quality, but political.
Joe G
The Milwaukee one is 10:1 and the $15 ones are mainly 16:1. That’s super important if you want to be further than a few feet away from what you’re measuring.
Sean
I personally wondered too how much better the Milwaukee IR thermometer or multimeter could be over the $25 ones I have. (I have a Commercial Electric thermometer, and I’m pretty sure this is a commonly “cloned” model.)
My initial guess is that they’re not much better (if at all) but I’d pay a *slight* premium to add to my M12 collection. However, $100-200 for one of these tools is far more than a slight premium, so they’re basically on my “would never buy it ever even if I had loads of money” list.
Bradley Hanstad
Outward appearance on electronics is tricky. While they could look identical, that doesnt mean they didnt change up some of the caps, or smd type components that could wear out faster or perhaps cause more heat/resistance and change values.
An offbrand drill could have the same motor and overall power as an american branded model, but if it has crappier electronics it could lead to battery drainage at massive levels and reduce power output over its life. Warranty and how much social media buzz you can create about an issue with a real brand is more important sometimes. Case by case basis
Fran Tark
For me it boils down to “how long do I think I’m going to keep this thing?” If I go to a job tuck pointing a brick building I might buy a dozen harbor freight angle grinders for the crew to just bang away on and toss when they blow up. If I need one for my shop specifically for grinding welds, I’ll spend for a Bosch and plan to keep it for years.
Things like wrenches, tape measures and screwdrivers I have 1-2 good sets that I watch over like a Doberman watches over a soup bone. But I have dozens of pieces I just don’t care much about. Cheap tools are the “disposables” to me.
If it’s a tool I haven’t used much in the past and only think I’ll use for a rare job (like an infrared thermometer) I’ll start cheap and if it becomes something I grow a need to rely on, I will step up.
More important to me is to buy quality connectors. Hose clamps, screws, nails, tape, pneumatic couplers, etc. are something I rarely skimp on. Many times I’ve found the connector itself is more important than the tool used to apply it.
Scott
I use my tools for home projects rather than work. Therefore, I prefer to spend less because I generally use my tools for lighter duty work. With that said, I expect what I buy to work as expected and last for as long as possible. I recently bought a Bosch random orbit sander and an empire level because from what I read, cheaper brands wouldn’t be as dependable, durable, and effective. I also have an HDX branded $1 screwdriver, 2-pack of the plastic Stanley tape measures for $10. My next tool purchases will be a cordless drill/driver and a combination square; the drill I will spend more on and take brand name into consideration. The combo square will probably be whatever is cheapest with acceptable reviews.
I very much rely on you and your readers for suggestions on specific brands’ tools- what to go for/avoid.
pete
If I was a home owner DIYer only I would probably invest into Ryobi 18v line. They have fantastic homeowner focused tools that you can’t find in any other platform. Not to mention they have a smoking deal and to be honest their stuff works just as good as anything else in it’s same class(ie 18v line lowest end). Even if you step up to the top of the line as a home owner you probably won’t ever get that return on investment unless your building a McMansion for yourself.
Scott
My current drill, sander, and (ancient but solid) circular saw, are all corded so I’m not yet invested in any one platform. I’ve looked into Ryobi and I am intrigued by their prices. Have you, or anyone else used their cordless tools? I’m curious about their durability and performance…It seems like some of the homeowner/DIY tools are a bit plasticy and so I’d rather spend a bit more if I won’t have to replace it in a few years.
will
look into ridgid if you want a step up in price and quality.I’ve never tried them but have heard nothing but good things about them.Though most people seem to be happy with Ryobi as well.
Jason. W
I used ryobi almost daily as a water restoration technician. As for durability, I dropped almost every tool at least once from a 8 foot ladder. The impact driver got dropped probably 4-5 times and still runs like a champ.
I never found anything I couldnt do with them. They did everything on par with my co-workers Bosch
I love ryobi
Jerry
I have used DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Porter Cable cordless tools back when I worked construction. Now that I moved on to maintanence, and have to buy my tools myself, I have gone with Ryobi. They tend to be more no-frills, but work well, and have a few clever features that can be really useful for advanced DIYers and homeowners. For example, the cordless drill and impact driver I own have a little magnet on the flat above the magnet you can use to hold a couple screws or bits, and their tools also seem to have on-board storage for any needed tools. My cordless jig saw does not have tool-less bevel settings, but the little wrench required has a little spot on board for storage, the angle y
grinder has a hollow in the side handle that holds the spanner wrench, etc.
Will they hold up to continuous heavy use on the construction site? I don’t know. They don’t seem quite as substantial, but for moderate use, I think they are hard to beat for the price paid. What really sold me, though, is the Huge selection of tools that will run off the same battery. My suggestion, if you are thinking of going with Ryobi, is to get the better tool in the lineup. For example, their cheapest drill works, but that’s about all I can say about it. However, spend an extra $20-30 and you get a drill that is actually pretty decent. Ditto the batteries. The few extra $$ for the Lithium is well worth it, and the Lithium+ ones are even better. Some tools not only run longer, but have more power/performance with the + batteries, and they come with a built in charge indicator. One thing to consider, might be their extended warranty. For not a lot more money, you can fat a 2 year extended warranty, where they exchange for a new tool, instead of sending your old one off to be fixed. Might be worth it If you plan to use it heavily.
will
I just like quality so I will pay a bit more. I may not buy the top of the line but I go for more than I need because I look too far into the future. Anyways I am building all of my own furniture and have built an end table and a nightstand so a bit of quality helps make things go smoother imo. Next on the list are a few bookcases, entertainment center x2,coffee table,and lastly my kitchen table, oh and 2 decks for my home.
pete
I have found that the old adage of “buy once and cry once” is almost always true. Buy the best tool that you can afford at the time and in the end it’s cheaper than buying the cheap tool first and breaking it than buying the ‘name brand tool’ after. However there are those gems in the rough.
5bolts
For cordless tools stick with one brand for interoperability.
Corded, best i can afford for the project i need it.. hold on to it long term
storage, i agree.. get good right off the bat. even if its just some shelving
Christopher
Sadly, I find myself more concerned with who will stand behind their warranties than with what brand flag they fly. I’ve had less issues getting a $10 pair of pliers replaced than I have getting warranty work done on a $500 miter saw.
Steven Bone
For me, any sort of hand tool that grips or cuts is worth spending money on. The tolerances in the joint, hardness of the steel for cutting and gripping, the hardness of the steel that prevents flex (especially for long-nose pliers), and the ‘grippiness’ of the teeth for holding are extremely important characteristics in this type of tool, and EVERY cheap tool of this category suffers from these flaws. I’ve had more than a few slips, breaks, and bends that caused both the task to not be completed properly or (worse) caused or nearly caused injury to me. I’ve learned my lesson. In this category I have a mix of Knipex, Klein, and ChannelLocks – even in my backup and on-the-road toolboxes.
From the perspective of cordless tools, the battery system is most important. Are the batteries affordable? Are the chargers well designed from an EE perspective? Can you buy officially warrantied bare tools for reasonable prices? The total cost of ownership is determined by all of these factors. I went with Hitachi 18v LiOn and have not looked back. Not the overall best equipment, but more than sufficient on all of these factors when taken together.
All other types of purchases are based on my initial use needs and what I think I will need from the tool in the next 5 years. I’ve bought cheap table saws and miter saws knowing that in 5 years I’ll likely need something better instead of going to a middle of the road option – and I’ve been happy with this decision as it makes it a no-brainer for replacement when the need comes. With buying a mid-level tool slightly better than what I need at the moment when the time comes that I need better accuracy or more power, my tendency would be to ‘make due’ with the mid-level one and have the overall outcome of the project suffer instead of NEEDING to replace something to even get close to the necessary accuracy.
JoeM
I learned the hard way. Buying cheap for anything you genuinely need will cost you more in the long run. When you don’t make a lot of money to start with, you have to be smart about it.
For ME… DeWALT and Dremel have never, EVER, let me down for power tools. So, I save up and invest in those two brands. Similarly, Stanley has never let me down for HAND Tools. So, likewise, I save up and invest in them when I genuinely need that thing.
For hand tools I’ve never owned before, levels, wrenches, pry bars, sockets, whatever else, I will sometimes get them from an in-store house brand to see if I use them at all. If I DO, and I start using it more often? I upgrade to a Stanley/FatMAX. Occasionally I will get the DeWALT version, if it’s one of their better models, but I am under no illusion that I’m not leaning on the Stanley background for that.
Consumables? Like the hand tools, I tend to buy large variety packs, as cheap as I can possibly get them at, of house/store brands to see what I gravitate toward using. When I’ve used up what I bought, I replace what I NEED with the name brands, like Bosch, Dremel, DeWALT, and the like. Any containers/kitboxes left over from the store brand stuff I repurpose into storage as needed.
But, ALWAYS, my goal is to have what I GENUINELY need in a QUALITY brand so that I don’t spend more money than I absolutely have to in order to do what I have to do, when I have to do it. My brand loyalty is in those that have proved their worth, not in those with flashy designs, more variety, or made in a specific place. Even if they get better scores from whoever tests them, I don’t trust outside my preferred brands. I can’t afford to be wrong.
Josh
I’ve found that using a better brand often has hidden perks. Better ergonomics and user comfort features are things a more premium brand might emphasize, even in midrange tools.
And then sometimes there’s that lovely feeling you get from looking at your rack of premium tools. Sometimes that alone is worth the cost (if you can afford it!)
Gilbert
Damn straight..
JeffD
If it’s a tool that I will constantly use, like wrenches, drivers, pliers, and scissors, then I will purchase quality over price in a heartbeat. Consequently, if I hardly ever use the tool then off to Harbor Freight I go.
When I started as a young, wet-behind-the-ears backyard mechanic years ago my father gave me a cheap set of Chinese tools. He said that when something breaks replace that particular tool with the good stuff, which was Craftsman back then. Eventually only half my tools were replaced.
JG
Easy. I just can’t afford cheap stuff.
I went through this path a couple of times, not only with tools. Buying cheapest stuff from the “meh good enough shelf” that didn’t last a year or less, was a pain to use or just didn’t do what it was supposed to do. Eventually I always had to buy better brands which had no issues. So these days I just go for at least “very good quality” tier, because it saves me 30% of total purchase – a good drill is less expensive than a good drill + a cheap drill that broke.
So I usually take my time to research, try one product of a brand and if it is as described I just go for it. Take Knipex for example – I have four pairs of cutters, three of them are horribly jagged and dull, one is Knipex and is good as new. If I hadn’t bought those three no name pairs I could have two sets of Knipex cutters for the same amount of money.
Repeatable quality, that’s the key. A brand is worth a lot it when I get all I expect to get every time, no hiccups. I needed me some ESD electronics flush cutters, I just looked up what Knipex has and bought it, got what I expected.
This brand is obviously an example but I apply that rule even to clothes I buy. Good brands save me time as well, all those work hours I’d be spending on furious research is money saved.
Tom A.
Amen to that JG,
I own several Knipex tools and they simply can’t be beat, and carry a lifetime warranty. But what else would you expect from a German engineered company? !
Gilbert
If you take pride on your tools, you take pride on your work!
Farid
Stuart,
I found it interesting that you mentioned IR thermometers. True not all IR thermometers are created equal, but some are truly identical.
I few years ago, I bought a simple IR thermometer from H.F. for around $26. I checked it against our $300+ Brand Name, Annually certified, NIST traceable thermometer at work and was very pleased with the results (within 1 deg at temperatures ranging from freezing to to above boiling and was more accurate than our Fluke 80T-IR).
Some time later, we needed to buy a few simple IR thermometers for our service crew. I looked at brand name thermometers and found some that looked identical to the one from HF. Upon evaluating the samples, it turned they were made by the same company as the H.F> model. The give way was the PCB assembly inside. The assembly numbers were identical; the UL logo and registration was identical. I was able to trace back the manufacturer name using the UL logo on the PCB, and it turned out to be a contract manufacture in China that advertised manufacturing for name brands such Fluke, Extech, Omega, and others. Indeed, the same identical model to H.F. was available from Fluke, Extech, Davis and others at various prices. The only difference between the H.F model I had and the $120 Davis Instruments version was the ability to store and recall 2 temperature readings – a simple firmware variation!
I would not trust my life to a cheap DMM, because of safety concerns. But IR thermometers are a different story. Most brands use the same Modules since there are a limited number of IR module manufacturers. The features may vary, such as memory, data storage, temperature comparison and fancier models have emissivity adjustments, food service presets, etc. But, in my experience, readings are usually very good for every day use, as long as you are aware of the distance to spot values and how to deal with highly polished surfaces.
Jerry
For hand tools I plan to use more than once or twice, I buy quality. A brand I can trust to make a decent tool is more important than the brand itself, unless only certain manufacturers make exactly what I want. I also consider the use for it. For example, Knipex pliers might be worth the price in the shop, where it gets used a lot, but for the glove compartment, the right pair of ChannelLocks will likely do the same job, for 1/2 the price (or less). I used to buy a lot of Craftsman hand tools, but anymore, if they are made in China, I might just as easily get a Husky or Kobalt tool if it seems as good, and is a better price. I still bought a Craftsman adjustable wrench recently, as they are still USA made, and it has proven to be quite strong. A few of their imported open end wrenches seemed to spread a little under hard use, where their old ones wouldn’t have. The Craftsman Industrial line is still mostly if not all USa made (hand tools) and the quality is excellent, well worth getting. If you watch for sales, they have good prices for time to time. That is probably still one of my preferred brands, as they seem to be very well made, and can be quite reasonably priced when on sale?
Hang Fire
I choose not to buy Chinese tools (yes I own some other PRC stuff like unavoidable electronics) because of their pollution record, their human rights record, and because I’ve been stung so, so many times by quality issues. It matters not to me that they CAN make good stuff because I keep NOT getting that good stuff.
A good example is PRC B&D jigsaw that held the blade crooked in 2 axis (tilted to one side and rotated.) Because of that experience for years I disdained jigsaws as toys until I tried a Bosch, then I bought one. At that time, anyway, the Bosch was not made in China.
Another example is a Delta grinder (or was it a Rockwell? It’s been a while). I tried to balance it by dressing the wheels over and over with a diamond dresser, until I took them off and it still shook like an earthquake. The shaft came bent when new. That’s PRC quality.
Another example is a B&D laser level set… with vertical and horizontal… not at 90 degrees to each other, and not level with the bubble. It was a gift and I didn’t know where to return it.
I have many more examples but those are a few I was stuck with because I kept them too long to return. The rest went right back for a refund, too many to remember. That’s why I do anything I can to avoid PRC tools. Too much wasted time.
John S
I don’t know if the issue here is necessarily PRC. I personally wouldn’t expect much more from anything B&D…
Toolfreak
It’s VERY much tool dependent on whether spending more makes ANY difference or not. For me, I spend more for better quality, or better longevity, to save money in the long run rather than constantly replacing a tool.
Spending $$$ to get brand-name USA-made fully polished core tools – combination wrenches, ratchets, extensions and sockets – so you know you can depend on them, and also enjoy using them, is usually worth the money.
That said, you can buy Stanley/Bostitch tools that are decent quality and also have a lifetime warranty, just not one that gives an immediate replacement.
You can now get cheap “lifetime warranty” tools at HF, and of course HD, Lowe’s, and Sears all have China-made tools with a replacement warranty, so at this point, you’re just picking the tools you want to use and can afford.
I bought the tools I wanted and liked the most, but that was because I was able to. I also have my old, cheap, Made in india wrenches and a lot of other cheap stuff I accumulated along the way that still works fine. They work without problems on just about everything, but I like having a full, complete set of higher end tools so I have EVERY size of wrench and socket available in various lengths, should I ever need it. Is this necessary? No, of course not. But as someone interested in tools and who is constantly taking care of things that need fixing, it’s a way to avoid being caught without having the right tool for the job.
When it comes to electrical stuff, sure, the more expensive stuff is usually better built, as in, a $129 brand name drill is probably going to have a stronger, better built, more reliable motor, a more comfortable handle, and be more durable in the long run than say, a $19.95 drill from the discount store.
But there are also plenty of cases where, even in electrical tools, you don’t get more when you pay more. Multimeters, for instance. I thought the HF ones were a joke – until I got some of them free with the coupons and compared them to the Actron branded model they looked suspiciously like. Turns out they are the EXACT SAME METER. The circuit board inside is the same, only the color of the plastic housing and the brand name on the sticker is different. Free vs. paying $20-30+ for the same meter with a different name on it. Say what you want about cheap multimeters, they are fine for non-critical measurements or just checking continuity, and great for jobs where you don’t really want to get your $200+ meter all greasy, dirty, or wet.
As for the IR thermometer that started this discussion, I bought the General Tools model because it was 10 freakin’ dollars for a decent, brand name tool that met my needs – it measured temperature and was reasonaby accurate and of higher than acceptable quality for the price paid. I’m not sure if it will be more durable in the long run than a more expensive model, which would be important to say, a HVAC tech who might use it hundreds of times a day, but I’ve had no issues thus far. Maybe the Milwaukee model is made for professional use on the job and will handle a hundred trigger pulls a day for many, many years, where the General will crap out on me in a few years of occasional use and I’ll have learned my lesson and will spring for a more expensive tool to replace it.
Farid
Be careful with those really cheap DMMs.
First, let me get this part out of the way. There are a limited number off-the -shelve DMM chip manufacturers. So, for most general purpose 3.5 digit multi meters (and some 4.5 digit) , they use the same basic circuitry to make voltage, resistances, and current measurements. The difference between brands might in the packaging (as you already noted) or additional functionality, such reading hold, min-max, diode check, etc. Hi accuracy meters usually use custom designed circuits.
BUT, this is were the similarities end. How do the meters handle overload? transients? How about creepage and clearance distances internally to prevent accidental shock, or causing an arc-flash explosion? What will happen if you accidentally connect across a live mains circuit while meter is current or resistance setting? How about probe insulation? Probe length? Finger guards? Voltage rating? Category (CAT) rating? low battery indicator (you don’t want a live circuit to test as dead due to a low battery!)
Cheap meters are fine if used to check your batteries, low voltage electronics, Car, continuity, etc. But, be really careful how you handle AC powered testing. Your life might depend on it, literally. Just google arc-flash explosion videos!
Here are some points to consider:
1- The meter should be rated for the proper voltage. If you are working on live circuits (120/240 or 480/277) the meter should be rated for 750 or 1000 Volts .
2- The CAT rating. This is different than the voltage rating. It is the ability of the meter to handle transients that may be present on the line. The transients can be several thousand volts. Most power distribution inside buildings require a minimum CAT III meter. CAT IV meters offer more protection but those are usually needed for electrical workers and outside lines. For indoor 120V household circuits, CAT II is minimum, but CAT III is preferable.
Note: A meter rated for 600V CAT IV has better transient protection that a meter rated for 1000V CAT III.
3- Make sure the meter is tested by a certified Lab, such as UL, CSA, TUV, etc. If the meter says meets standard such and such, or designed to meet a standard, that is not enough. An agency test helps ensures that if the meter fails, it will minimize injury to the user.
4- Use the proper fuse replacement for the meter. Newer meters have fuses internally to help protect against shorts and overloads. Name brand meters such as fluke utilize sand-filled fuse cartridges to help extinguish arcs quickly inside the fuse and maximize user protection. Cheap meters are use small low voltage fuses (if any) that are not designed to handle large current overloads. Keep in mind, that your 120V circuit at the panel can supply 10,000 A in a short circuit. A 5x20mm glass tube fuse will not be able to handle that.
5- probes should be in good condition, properly rated for voltage and category (CAT). Latest standard require finger guards and maximum exposed probe tip of 4mm; or use of retractable shrouds.
6- Before working on critical high voltage circuit, make sure the meter reads correctly. Before I check for a dead circuit, I check the meter with a known live circuit or a battery to make that the meter at least registers voltage.
In summary the difference between a cheap meter and quality meter can be literally your life. A quality, lab-tested and certified meter will have better insulation, handle transients better, handle overload or accidental wrong connections. A cheap meter may explode in your hand!
Toolfreak
Thanks for the detailed technical reply.
I don’t use the cheapo meters for testing 120/240V, just smaller stuff on vehicles, equipment, etc.
Definitely use a CAT III/IV for working on 120/240V.