Quality router bits deserve a safe storage space and shouldn’t be thrown loose into a box or drawer — the carbide edges are easily chipped or broken. Replacing a good router bit can cost anywhere from $20 to $40 (or more), and so it pays to spend a little bit of time or money to ensure they are kept in good shape.
Woodpeckers’ RackBit system aims help you better organize and protect your router bits, while also making them easily accessible. It consists of two parts: molded bases that hold each individual router bit, and a powder-coated steel rack that can hold multiple bases.
The RackBit bases have a special two-level spring-loaded design that can hold either 1/4″ or 1/2″ shank router bits securely. The bases either slide into the end of the rack or can be inserted anywhere in the middle of the rack by tilting the base and dropping it in. This also allows the bits to be re-arranged easily as they can still slide about when in the rack.
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If you don’t want to store your router bits on a rack out in the open, Woodpeckers offers just the bases so you can create your own organizational scheme.
Woodpeckers estimates that the RackBit system will start shipping around January 31, 2022. They are offering pre-sale pricing, in bold, ending 10/24/2021. After that time the pricing will be what is shown in the parentheses.
- 6-pack of bit bases $7 ($8)
- 24-pack of bit bases $20 ($22)
- 9″ RackBit rail + 6 bases $20 ($22)
- 18″ RackBit rail + 12 bases $35 ($40)
- 27″ RackBit rail + 18 bases $50 ($55)
Woodpeckers RackBit products are made in the USA. It does not look like the rails will be available separately, but this could change if there’s enough demand for it.
Discussion
The question is: do you store your router bits out in the open on a rack, or safely in a drawer to keep them from cluttering up your area? On one hand, it is nice to be able to quickly see all your bits at once without opening a case or drawer, but at the same time — who has the wall space to openly display all their bits? I like that this system is adaptable and designed to address different storage preferences and setups.
I also like the design of the bit bases — how the same base can accept both common router bit sizes, so you don’t need to purchase separate parts or size adapters.
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In contrast, I store my router bits in one of two ways. The first is in a custom blow-molded case that came with a set of 1/2 shank bit I purchased. One advantage of this method is that there are easily identifiable labels and pictures of the profile under the bit. Another is that I can grab the case and have pretty much any bit I need — unless I forgot to put some back.
One disadvantage is that the bits aren’t logically organized. For instance, the straight bits are together, but why aren’t the cove and round-over bits next to each other? One more disadvantage is that the case takes up extra space in the drawer that I keep it in. Finally, if I buy any additional router bits, there’s no room for them here.
The second way I store router bits is by using a piece of Kaizen Foam with 1/4″ and 1/2″ holes drilled in a grid pattern. It’s simple, cheap, easy to reorganize, and compact. The downside is that it isn’t very portable.
While these ways are adequate for me, I’m always looking for better ways to store and find my accessories. If you are starting from scratch I think the Rackbit system might be a reasonably priced way to store your router bits.
MoogleMan3
I’m not a fan of the racks, but might grab some of the bit holders.
fred
When I got their email – I thought that I really like the concept and would buy into it if I were starting over. my router table bit storage system consists of 8/4 maple bored to hold my various bits. The maple blocks have threaded inserts near the ends and I use knobs with threaded studs to secure the blocks to brackets mounted on the side of my router table. I have 3 blocks – and can demount one (or more) at a time. Each block is fitted with a shop-made Lexan dust cover. The big foible with my setup is that I have a mixed up set of bits on each block – added as I acquired them and also mixed to optimize the use of space (smaller bits interspersed with larger ones.) So sometimes – via some corollary of Murphy’s Law – I’ll pull one block thinking that’s where I’m seeing the bit I want – only to have to put it back and pull another one.
Jared
Here’s a less expensive option:
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/workshop/storage/tool-storage/50697-bit-holders
I’ve been meaning to just drill a series of holes in a piece of 3/4″ or 7/8″ plywood. That’s what I did for my 1/4″ hex bits and it’s been awesome – everything laid out for easy ID in a shallow drawer. I might use a thick plastic cutting board next time.
MoogleMan3
I really like rockler’s version of those; they hold 1/4″ or 1/2″ bits.
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-router-bit-storage-inserts-10-pack
I’ve done the holes drilled in wood too, but since my shop is detached and uninsulated, I end up with rust on the shanks sometimes. Nothing major, just enough to be annoying.
I like the cutting board idea too. Adding that to my bag of tricks. 🙂
Mike
Those do look really nice, removable bases, woodpecker style, doesn’t seem to have much advantage.
eddie sky
Thanks for that link! I like the Rockler ones, and can drill a board as I add bits. However, are these difficult to remove the bits from? I have some 1/2in Freud bits that their case can leave you bleeding from trying to remove a bit. (bit of machine oil on the shaft end helps ease them out).
ca
How did you make the holes in the kaizen foam?
Benjamen
Sharp Forstner bits in the drill press.
MM
Nice, I always wondered if that worked but I never tried it myself.
I have had good luck making hollow punches by sharpening the edge of a piece of tubing or thin-walled pipe for making round holes.
A jigsaw equipped with the Bosch wavy edge “soft material” blades works well too, if you make a template from scrap wood and cut around that you can make some very nice looking complex cutouts.
John
Foam in a drawer is the best and easiest. Displaying bits out in the open to get hit, nicked or whatever else is dumb.
fred
The first storage block that I made and hung on the side of my Router table almost immediately attracted wood chips and dust. My next project was a removable Lexan cover to seal them in.
Frank D
Bits in the open … maybe. As long as the shop is conditioned. Still they’ll be prone to rust, get grimey, might get bumped or nicked dependinb how much space you have … I certainly would not store them on front or side of a table or bench, as shown in the lead photo, way too dangerous. A wooden block of piece of foam inside a drawer works just fine.
George
If the Kaizen foam was cut to fit in a small parts tray and a topping layer was made to keep them in place, you could cart them all around. Like a pluck foam Pelican case but cheaper.
MM
These look alright, but It always puzzles me when I see products like this: This is one of the first things I’d expect a hobby woodworker to DIY.
I don’t use a router very often. I store my most commonly used bits in plastic tubes left over from my machine shop tooling, these are very commonly used to protect taps, drills, and end mills, etc. They’re just two pieces of plastic which lock together. I’ve always been puzzled as to why these are so common in the industrial tooling side but I hardly ever see them at retail, I think Wood Owl is the only brand I’ve seen use them.
Basically stuff like this:
https://www.rose-plastic.us/en/products/plastic-packaging-tubes/quadropack
or
https://www.rose-plastic.us/en/products/plastic-packaging-tubes/twistpack
I keep those in the tool bag with my router, circle jig, and alternate base.
The rest of my bits are in an old tackle box. I drilled holes in a block of wood and screwed it to the bottom of the box to hold the bits separate, and I glued a piece of foam to the lid of the box so that when closed it holds the bits down and they can’t fall out of the holes in the wood. Keeps them clean and safe and if I need to take them on a job it’s easy to grab and toss in the truck. I keep the various bearings for rabbeting bits in another one of those plastic end mill tubes down in the tackle box.
fred
We had shadow boards and custom-fitted drawer liners in Lista cabinets in our fabrication shop. None of it was DIY or hobby related. It was done so that it was easy to spot if a tool was missing or worse yet left behind in an assembly we were producing.
At the other end of the spectrum – in our plumbing business – many of the plumbers would just toss tools into 5gal pails or tool bags – in no particular order.
In between was our cabinet shop – with Vidmar cabinets with many tools in drawers – and our GC/Remodeling business where we had Dejana upfitted vans for organization and storage.
For retired octogenarian me – in my home shop – its now all hobby.
I think what I’m saying is that different storage options are good and what works for one may not for another – so if you like Woodpecker’s style (IMO usually nicely made but sometimes more show than practicality) then so be it.
MM
I know exactly what you mean about tooling in Lista cabinets, that’s exactly what I do with my lathe and mill tooling, taps, dies, all that related stuff. But industrial brands like Lista and Stanley Vidmar already have tooling holders for their chests and cabinets that can be used for end mills, drills, router bits, etc, so I’d think that an industrial user would already have their needs covered there.
Mikedt
I think this is the first Woodpecker product that I felt didn’t have the decimal point in the wrong spot.
Jared
Ha!
It might be a bit of a premium over the Lee Valley and Rockler versions, but it does look really clean installed in a drawer.
The rack aspect seems weird to me – but maybe it would be handy to store frequently-used bits in an easily accessible manner, or a place to set them if you were swapping back and forth during a project?
MtnRanch
Sometimes I look at Woodpecker’s stuff and have to check the calendar to make sure it’s not April 1 already. A block of foam works great and, if you’re feeling lazy, they are available pre-drilled.
Michaelhammer
I went the Kaizen route as well. For mobility, I cut the foam to fit a tool case. I bought one that looks like a photographer’s case, but any case will work; Pack Out, Tough, even those useless power tool cases manufacturers magically fit the corded tool in. Naturally not cutting yourself or damaging the cutters is key, but another just as important function is rust prevention. A rusty bit just doesn’t cut as well. I keep a small bag of desiccant in mine to promote a rust-free environment. To Fred’s point, larger bits take up a lot of space and complicate the organization. For me, I don’t use larger bits that often so I keep them in their original packaging in a drawer. It keeps them like new and I have all the specs for the bit.
Larger bits are the Achilles heal of the Wood Pecker system. If you look at the drawer picture, the large bit in the upper right is blocking several holders. Now you have to buy bit holders just for space holders and storing a single bit is now six or seven dollars. They don’t even bother to show larger bits on the rail system because, once again, they eat up a ton of real estate. As we’ve seen from links in other comments, comparatively speaking, Wood Pecker’s real estate is expensive.
fred
How to store larger bits are indeed a puzzle. How I fit the puzzle together was helped by the 8/4 stock I used for the blocks – and sometimes the different lengths of the shafts on the bits. Sometimes I was able to sneak in a smaller bit under the “canopy” of a larger bit by drilling different depth holes. Of course this can obscure visibility and requires pulling the larger bit to get at the smaller. Also my holes are not drilled on equally spaced centers – so smaller diameter bits can get interspersed with larger ones allowing for a better packing factor. The first block I made had some bits that slightly over-hanged the block. At first I thought this was no big deal until I decided that I needed those Lexan covers to keep the bits clean – so it was back to the drawing board – and one block off to the fire pit woodpile.
Steven B
I’ve built this already in 10 minutes with old 2×2 oak scraps and a drill press. I glued magnets to the bottom. I feel validated that they came up with a similar system, but like mine better due to the magnets.
fred
I would beware of oak unless you are able to seal it well or use something like the Rockler plastic inserts. Oak can release tannins promoting rust of nails, iron hardware and in this case steel router bit shanks. Oak is nice because its tough and dense – but like all woods they are a natural product that come with nature. Even with maple – I drilled most of the holes to be slightly oversized then dipped the blocks in shellac to seal the wood