A few months ago, I decided to build a custom shelving unit that can hold at least 40 dividable grid industrial containers. I have these bins in a couple of different sizes, but most are around 16.5″ long x 11″ wide x 6″ tall.
I’ve been using these sturdy boxes for a few years now, and like them a lot. I used to store them on wire shelving units, but I ended up losing a lot of space. And when I spaced my shelves out to fit 2 bins on top of each other, finding and retrieving what I needed took quite a bit more time.
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I want my bins to be easier to retrieve, and highly space-efficient.
So, I thought I would give each box its own “shelf.”
I also want the shelving to be customizable and expandable.
They make wire shelving units that can hold 36 bins – 9 shelves with 4 bins per shelf. Or I could do as I did before, and combine multiple off-the-shelf units to increase the shelf count.
But, wire shelving units are not very adaptable. What if I want a heavy extra-tall bin at the bottom, and a heavy shallow bin at the same level? Some of my deep bins are heavily loaded, and so are some of my shallow bins, such as one that holds my granite surface plate.
Building my own shelving unit means that I can space things out as I please. If I want 4 sections, each with different shelf heights, I can do that.
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I can also expand or divide it in the future as needed. If I add 2 legs and feet, I can split it into two separate units. If I add 2 legs and 4 crossbeams, I can add another column of bins. And if I add 2 legs and longer crossbeams, I can have an adjustable-height workbench, or, I can create an intermediate rack to hold wider tool boxes or organizers.
Plus, retrieving bins from a wire shelving unit, or even checking the contents, isn’t as easy as I’d like, even when there’s plastic shelf liner.
Some of my bins are light, others are fully loaded and quite heavy. I considered a few different options for the “rails,” including wood, plastic, and different sizes of aluminum channels, and ultimately settled on 1/2″ x 1″ aluminum with 1/8″ wall thickness. It’s strong, and perfectly sized for my needs.
I finished my test batch today, and am fairly pleased with the results. Right now spacing between bins is kept tight, but there will be enough room to space them out a little further apart.
Surprisingly, the project has been a lot more labor-intensive than I had anticipated.
Each pair of rails comes out to around $9.61, not including shipping fees or tooling (I had to buy a new blade to fit the smaller Milwaukee miter saw I’m currently testing). That’s also not including the 80/20 framing or the leveling feet, which I ordered and assembled a few months ago.
That seems like a lot, but the storage rack will be near indestructible, and can change with my needs when – not if – that happens..
I’m happy with the little but measurable progress I made. While it will take some more time and elbow grease to finish the project, I worked out all the kinks so far, or at least I think I did. I might talk about those another time, but some parts are embarrassing, such as how and why I rounded over some of the aluminum edges when I really didn’t need to.
There are ways to cut costs, such as using 2x4s or even 1.5″ x 1.5″ lumber for the uprights, but the rails are still pricey. Aluminum angle is $5.60 for 36″, which makes (2) 17″ rails, and adhesive-backed UHMW strips, which greatly improves sliding, is $7.36 for 15′, which is enough for 10 rails (5 bins’ worth). So that’s $7.18 per shelf or pair of rails, not including screws or other mounting hardware.
It’s a solution that satisfies very specific needs and wants. I tried to be budget-conscious with the rails, but I ultimately went with the best solution, and that was to use strong aluminum with low-friction UHMW tape attached to the top.
My only regret is that what I have so far doesn’t reflect the time and work that went into it, especially all the experimentation. But that’s okay, this isn’t a creative project, it’s functional, and it’s getting me a little closer to having an organized workspace.
RKA
I’d like to see a more detailed write up. I’ve never worked with 8020 so I would be interested in what you designed and the execution.
Stuart
80/20 is tough to write about. It gets expensive, and fast. There are lots of DIY uses, but you have to know what you’re looking to build.
Here’s their gallery, for inspiration: https://www.8020.net/gallery
Most of my earlier experiences involved cutting extrusions down to size or using standard pre-cut lengths, and fastening it together using angle brackets. Even then, it was pricey. At one point I tried making my own brackets, but that was too time consuming for too little savings.
Example: https://toolguyd.com/toolguyd-tool-cabinet-build-getting-there-and-thinking-aloud-about-drawer-sizing/
I did this for years – designing around standard lengths and spacings. I drilled my own holes as necessary, making my own jig that I modeled after 80/20’s.
Now, at least for larger projects, I do some prototyping and prefer to order everything cut to length and counterbored for anchors. That can add a bit to the cost, but greatly simplifies assembly in several ways.
Example: https://www.instagram.com/p/BQ_ixhRF19D/
I talked more about things here: https://toolguyd.com/brainstorming-how-to-make-best-use-of-a-corner-for-a-workbench-or-tool-cabinet/
You can see the next evolution here, roughly halfway down the page: https://toolguyd.com/misc-tool-talk-dewalt-cordless-mowers-furnace-wiring-tin-coated-tools-workbench-status-more/
When I finalized the design, I tried a new extrusion style and went with black anodization.
Now, I still need to do sides, backs, shelves, drawers, doors, and accessories.
For personal use, I would still go the bolt-together method. For business purposes, I do what I can myself, but for the tougher cuts and things like counterbores, it’s easier and quicker to have 80/20 handle the custom machining.
There’s no “right” way to do things.
With most of my designs, I try to load all the weight onto the legs. There are some exceptions – instead of 2 banks of 26″ cabinet openings for drawers, I’m splitting one up into 2x 12.25″ openings. It doesn’t make sense to add another set of legs, and so I’m adding a vertical divider instead, sliding between top and bottom horizontal sections. Even with 250 pounds on each upright, bottom deflection, due to the centralized loading will be 0.0118″. Any benchtop weight will be supported by the bench legs.
I want to build a mobile assembly table or tool box next, and it might be advantageous to have a rectangular base.
I can try to answer any questions you might have.
TonyT
There are other vendors, too, that might be a better fit than 8020, such as Parker (Parframe) and Bosch (yep, the same one). On the cheaper side, there is OpenBuilds, which is popular for 3D printers, but probably doesn’t have the strength, number of accessories, or services (like counter-boring) like the industrial brands.
At work, we’ve used some 8020 and Parframe. Extruded aluminum framing has its place, but gets overused – it’s expensive, and still doesn’t have the rigidity of, say, a welded steel frame (e.g. we had a customer that required using it, but our Mechanical Engineer didn’t think it was rigid enough, so we had a steel frame inside a Parframe….)
Stuart
There’s also Faztek.
I’ve been happy with 80/20. I used to be open-minded about other options, but most other companies are not setup for selling to individuals. I first ordered all my 80/20 stuff through their Ebay “Garage Sale” store, and from MSC (mainly 8-foot extrusions) but have since ordered from them directly, and through one of their regional suppliers. I have nothing but good things to say about them.
TonyT
I can see why it’s a good match for this project, and I believe what you say. The eBay store sounds interesting; I have a small project idea where extrusion would be a good fit, but my budget is also small, so I’ll be looking at OpenBuilds first, but I’ll also check out the 8020 “Garage Sale”.
I’ve seen 8020 & co before from the viewpoint of industrial automation, where it’s a bit over-used. While I know many of our local distributors will sell to individuals, they’re not set up for it. Bosch is yet another story….if you think their power tools lineup is confusing, look at their automation lineup 🙂
Stuart
The appeal to me is that it’s customizable and easily so. I can add swivel leveling feet to compensate for uneven floors, and I can modify things with ease.
Everything is bolt-together, and so I can add accessories easier than with wood.
I don’t have to worry about waterproofing it.
Yesterday I test-fit the drawer spacing and changed it 4 times. I couldn’t do that with wood.
80/20 allows me to design, prototype, and then finalize my design. And if I need to change things, it allows me to do so. If I end up with spare parts, I know they’ll get used for a later project or build.
With wood, you design and test, and then build your project. With 80/20, it allows me to design, and then build and test at the same time.
I still have multiple organizational and workbench needs, and so I’m comfortable trying new things. If it doesn’t work out, I can repurpose the extrusions into a new project.
With wood, I can’t really do that. For example, I have a few IKEA cabinets from a few years ago, and there’s not much I can do to reuse their parts. So they’re taking up space until I can either find a use for them, or bulk trash day comes around again next year.
With this project, it’s not the only solution, and it might not even be the best one for everyone, but I felt it’s the right direction for me.
Flotsam
You talked about how much the rail options cost, but what is the cost of those boxes??
Stuart
I spent as little as $7-8 each. That’s not insignificant, but I accumulated them over the course of several years.
After someone previously commented about the pricing I looked up my older order details and commented about them here: https://toolguyd.com/quantum-dividable-storage-containers/#comment-1152277
At this moment, they seem to be $10-11 each, before coupons. Different promos at Zoro and MSC can drop it down further.
My oldest boxes have moved with me twice, and in 7-8 years, I only broke one (and it was my fault), and 2 lids (also my fault, and not all my boxes have lids).
I made my own dividers, and will make more, maybe with hardboard next time.
I suppose that one can make their own boxes out of plywood.
IKEA’s Trofast bins can be supported in a similar way and are less expensive, but are much lighter duty.
I will very likely create a different support system for my heaviest bins – maybe using similar hardware to create “bottom shelves” instead of “hanging rails,” just in case the side overhang cannot handle the weight.
Flotsam
Thanks for answering my question. I have a collection of plastic containers and so not so standardized and most not as rugged
Brian M
It looks really good. Good storage solutions are always expensive. I’m still trying to get mine down, I have a lot(literally 222 according to my excel sheet) of Quantum and Akro nesting/hanging bins and that’s been working well. I use the hanging bins over the workbench where the space previously wasn’t too usable because of the depth of the bench. Wire shelf has a lot of nesting bins on it but there’s definitely wasted space that I keep trying to find ways around. The bin shelves that come with bins work out really well because you just fill up the bins with like objects and label them…but I’m not paying full price and I only got a great deal on one.
Stuart
I love hanging bins, and have been trying to find a way to fit them into my grand organizational scheme. It’s hard because hanging bins can collect dust, chips, and debris, but enclosing them in a cabinet – even a shallow one – seems counter-productive.
Framer joe
Akro Mills hanging bins have optional lids. There very good..
Brian M
Yeah, that’s the only problem I’ve had thus far. I blow them with compressed air once every couple of weeks and it’s been fine. They start on a shelf that’s about 5’7″ and go up to about 7′ so they’re high enough that they only get fine dust on/in them.
Like Joe said, they sell lids for them if necessary but the lids aren’t cheap…often the lids are more expensive than I buy the bins for, though I often buy at a heavy discount.
Rcward
Have to ask, if you moved, would that all stay or would you take it with you?
Stuart
I’d take it with me. Many of my bins lasted through 1 or 2 moves. The first time, I transported them myself. The second time, I shrink-wrapped the bins and packed them in boxes.
The racks bolt-together so I can take them apart and pack them up if need be.
Rcward
Good answer, I’m the type that would think “ l have to pack all this?” Wonder what they would give me for it.
Koko The Talking Ape
Looks great! But I am still concerned about the lips of the bins distorting and bending when the bins are pulled out. All the weight will be resting on the small section of lip that is still resting on the rails, and bending it besides. Do you find that to be an issue, Stuart?
Stuart
I’ll keep an eye on things.
Here are my options if I notice any distortion over time:
1) Add plywood and convert the rails into shelves.
2) Only convert shelves for the bins that weigh more than X-pounds.
3) Resize the rack for other organizational needs, such as L-Boxxes, plywood drawer boxes, or something else, and figure out another solution for the Quantum bins.
4) Modify very heavily-loaded bins with an under-lip support made of 1/2″ plywood or similar.
I’ve been carrying my bins by the lips, using them as handles, and so far, so good. The heavier ones are supported underneath.
That’s why I designed things the way I did, so that this doesn’t have to be a “forever” solution, but it can be if it works out. If it doesn’t, there are ways to reuse or adapt everything with little waste.
Making something like this out of plywood or lumber would have been cheaper, but that wouldn’t have allowed for many future changes.
Brian M
I think they’ll be fine, some plastic bins get brittle with age but these higher end bins don’t really…the old ones with the stiffer plastic did. The bins may have a weight rating and it’s normally a higher than you’d imagine. I have a few large hanging Quantum QUS270 bins that have 75lb HANGING rating, that’s one 16″ lip! These bins should be rated for at least 50lbs and I don’t think you’d want to load them up that heavy from a practical standpoint.
Whiskey and Wood
Is there a reason to go with expensive aluminum for the rails instead of steel? It seems it could could serve the function of the rails just as well, if not better, would still bolt to the aluminum extrusions, and would be vastly cheaper and more readily available locally.
Paul K
Dust. I’m guessing with 40 bins you’re not accessing some of them very often. I know it doesn’t look like a lot of space for airflow but you’d be surprised how much gets in over the course of a couple years. Even in a non-shop environment. Looks fantastic though.
Framer joe
For an industrial look 80/20 looks nice…still don’t see how it’s better for larger storage bins like those ,then the DeWalt storage racks..no wire grids, extremely strong , adjustable, shelves..plastic composite, shelf liner to easily slide in and out..many many configurations.
Of course I know your not a DeWalt fan,but I’m sure similar systems exist…
Stuart
How do you level the Dewalt storage rack or other racking? You can’t. They have nylon feet and no way to mount leveling feet to the legs.
I will eventually turn to building shelving for my garage. Husky has great looking welded steel shelving racks. Again, there’s no easy way to level them without shims. One is 77″ wide x 78″ tall x 24″ deep, and another is 90″ tall x 90″ wide x 24″ deep.
In my garage, I’ll need a shorter and narrower unit near the door. And in the back, I need something taller, but with a bridged section across two smaller units, so as to not block the electrical panel.
In the basement, 78″ height won’t fit, 77″ wide is too wide, and 24″ depth is too deep.
Wire shelving racks are a decent alternative, but not ideal. For custom setups, I’d have to go to an industrial supplier, instead of buying off-the-shelf wire shelving racks, and the costs there add up really fast.
There are functional options, but they all have compromises.
I’ve tried a lot of different things in 8 years. Now, I’m trying something a little different.
Frank D
Seems slow and overly expensive per foot for bulk tool / supplies storage compared to more basic wire shelving and steel shelving.
I’m condensing my storage rack space for supplies and tools. Basically lose 1″ of vertical space per wire shelf and 2″ per steel shelf. I have my 24″ bin diy stanley sortimo on wheels. Just made another one and now instead of shelves here and there, have two rolling shelves instead of four and lengthwise a wall to wall steel shelving unit for all hand tools, powertools, … nothing complicated, 100% clean, functional, done in no time flat. At $50/steel shelving unit and $75/wire shelving unit? All you need is a piece of scrap 2×3 to tap it together. Adjustable by the inch or so.
Frank D
error: 24 bin sortimo 48″ wide
webguy
Love to see more pics of this setup Stuart!
Stuart
Thanks – working on it!
I added a few more “shelves,” and I have the next batch of aluminum to cut and drill.