You might not know it yet, but you need a marking knife. Yes, you should definitely buy a marking knife.
A marking knife is used for creating crisp layout lines in wood materials. It lays down a finer line than the thinnest pencil tip, and although all knives will slowly dull and eventually require a little honing or even replacement, good marking knives hold their edges and fine points for a very long time.
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Sometimes I use a marking knife by itself, other times I follow it with a pencil to darken the line in busy woods.
If you’ve never tried one before, you owe it yourself to be open-minded.
There is a wide range of woodworking marking knives available, ranging from easily affordable to heirloom-quality pieces for discerning and deep-pocketed enthusiasts.
If you want to give things a try without spending a penny, you can use a utility knife, outdoors knife, even a kitchen paring knife, at least for proof of concept.
Shown above is a Blue Spruce Toolworks marking knife. They’re a company whose customized tools we recently posted about. I used the image because it perfectly illustrates the use of a marking knife. I use marking knives very often, but am not quite ready to splurge for a premium-priced model yet.
Here’s a closer look at one of their models, with spear point blade, curly maple handle, and stainless steel ferrule.
Price: $80
See what I mean about some models being for deep-pocketed enthusiasts? Although, considering how often something like this is used, and how much other woodworking hand tools are priced, it’s not that unreasonable, right? This is the curly maple-handled version, the cocobolo and African blackwood versions are a bit pricier.
On the other side of the price range, this Big Horn marking/striking is priced at $8 and change. This is one of the distinct styles of marking knives, where you have a flat back and double beveled spearpoint-type blade shape on the front.
Because of how it’s shaped, you can slide the flat back across your square, rule, or other measuring apparatus, allowing for a precise line to be scribed exactly where you need it.
You can buy a knife like this to determine if marking knives are right for you, and if you prefer this style of blade. Once you determine your preferences, you can decide your upgrade path from there. Or, you might be happy with something like this as your one and only marking knife.
I should point out that reviews are mixed, with many users loving it, and others complaining about cheap build quality. For under $10, don’t expect much.
Price: $8-9
Narex is a good name when it comes to woodworking tools, or at least I think so. I bought Narex chisels because they were lauded by Lee Valley and on woodworking forums, offering a good value for mid-level tools at mid-level pricing.
They’re a step up from entry-level pricing, and a big step up in quality from entry-level tools.
This marking knife is a different shape than others, almost comparable to #11 hobby knife blades. At this time I would advise against using X-Acto or other hobby knives as marking knives, as they seem too fragile for something like this.
The Narex marking knife blade is 2.75″ long and the handle is 4.125″ long.
Reviews on this one are mixed too, with some saying it’s too sharp and delicate for their use.
Price: $20
Narex describes this scalpel-shaped knife as a marking knife as well, but I’m a little skeptical about the blade shape. Could be worth a try, but personally I’d steer closer towards a more traditional blade shape.
Price: $20
This Crown marking knife is also beveled to one side. It’s considered a “right hand” marking knife, as the flat is on the left side for sliding along rules and squares.
Generally, one could make due with a “right handed” or “left handed” marking knife, corresponding to their dominant hand, or get a set of knives so that you can mark in either direction.
This also helps to explain why many marking knives are dual-beveled as with the Big Horn and Blue Spruce models shown above. Dual bevels on one side of the knife allow for marking with the flat back in either direction.
As with some of the other inexpensive marking knives, this one has mixed reviews.
Honestly, you get what you pay for. You can’t get premium steel, high hardness, and perfect sharpening at entry-level pricing. You get a basic tool that does its job but probably requires a little more maintenance for exceptional results.
This Mora knife is a small fixed blade knife, meant for outdoors applications. But hey, there’s no reason it cannot be used as a starter marking knife, right?
Once you know marking knives are right for you, you can upgrade to a better woodworking-specific knife and use this one for… I don’t know? It’s very popular with outdoors enthusiasts and I’m fond of Mora knives in general, and so it seemed like a fitting mention.
Price: $26
Lee Valley’s Veritas workshop striking knife looks to be all function, zero form. That’s okay, it means that the bulk of the price goes towards making the knife a strong performer.
I’d rather have a good performing knife than a good-looker, although a good-looking high-performance knife would be best if you have the cash for it.
This knife is made with A2 tool steel and is 6-5/8″ overall. It’s made in Canada.
Unlike some of the other knives shown here, this one might be more tailored towards precise and tight space marking tasks, as opposed to general layout work. In Veritas’ intro video, it’s shown being used between dovetail tails to lay down marks for the pins.
Price: $17.50
Lee Valley also sells the Utilitas marking knife, which is made to their exacting standards.
It features a hardwood handle, and flats to help prevent rolling.
Price: $36.50
Reader Recommendations
Do you have a favorite marking knife you’d like to recommend?
James Madara says
A marking knife is also a relatively easy tool to make for those who are interested in knifemaking.
John804 says
That’s one of the first knives I plan to make on my own. But I’ve been planning to do that for two years, so I’ll likely order one of these today just to get some experience using one.
fred says
And you can use a marking knife without a handle:
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/marking-tools/110953-japanese-spear-point-marking-knife
For inlay work a double marking knife or mortise gauge can come in handy:
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/inlayknife-doublemarkingknife.aspx
Adabhael says
I brought home a stack of similar no-handle, right-hand-only Japanese marking knives from Japan as omiyage for friends and relatives. IIRC, I paid about 450 ¥ in 2011 (which the internet tells me is about $7.50 in today’s USD) for the DIY-grade option at Tokyu Hands. Although they are simple and inexpensive (well, once you get to Japan!) they are a joy to use. They are beautifully formed, leave a deep mark to guide a saw or chisel, and the steel is quite hard to hold a good edge, and the back is hollowed like a chisel for flattening when you do have to sharpen. I handled fancier versions in dedicated traditional carpentry shops, for those who need a marking knife made like a samurai sword.
That spear-point version at Lee Valley (or this one from Woodcraft) would be a nice alternative in woodworking situations where you need to score against the left side of things.
Joe H says
I’ve used utility knives before and I will also use an awl with excellent results. Never had an issue but I don’t do much fine woodworking. The nice thing about an awl is you can mark on any side and in any direction and its very quick and easy to sharpen, not to mention cheap. It also works in tight spaces where the width of a knife makes things more awkward. They also come with a variety of handle shapes and sizes and I use it to hold my chalk reel line by stabbing it into a board so its always on me.
dll932 says
I have marking knife I bought years ago, made in Japan. It has come in handy. I agree that these are easy to make if you have a bench grinder. You can make one from an old file.
Martin says
If making one from a file I suggest an old file, as in when they used to be made in the USA. You can find good donor files at flea markets for cheap.
A lot of the new files now days are junk steel. If the file won’t stay sharp your marking knife won’t.
Also, if grinding a knife out of an already tempered steel (file, saw blade, etc.) don’t overheat it. Grind a little and cool it. If the steel turns dark brown, purple or blue you have ruined the temper and made it softer than it should be for that knife. You could re-harden and temper it at that point but then you are down another rabbit hole and probably in it more than a decent marking knife would cost.
Good luck!
Hugo says
I have a Narex 8223, purchased for the equivalent of about US$14 in the UK. Traditional shape and robust form, well made with good steel, for a great price.
Ed Ski says
PAS makes has a neat youtube vid on making your own marking knife:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFGdSAiQGBc
I thought about the cheaper Veritas ones. Lee Valley also sells a Veritas Shop Knife model with replaceable blades https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/marking-tools/73102-veritas-shop-knife
Hilton says
Not sure why anyone would choose the Narex over that cool Japanese knife from Lee Valley. I’m not against Narex as I have a bunch of chisels and screw drivers.
Brent says
I was introduced to an English made scalpel from White Chapel Hardware, by my woodworking teacher Chris Gochnour, he is a regular contributor to fine woodworking. These Scalpel use blade similar in size to X-Acto knives, but the retention mechanism is much simpler so I’m never fighting with tightening the blade so it doesn’t fall out. Of the ones they sell, I prefer the Long Scalpel Handle 7″ for Large blades. https://whitechapel-ltd.com/288swh2.html
Chris uses the 4 1/2″ Scalpel Handle (Large blades)
https://whitechapel-ltd.com/288swh4.html
I like these are the blade handles more comfortable than an X-Acto knife also and the blades are a replaceable and relatively inexpensive. If you don’t want to sharpen blades this is a good choice. I use these scalpels for all my woodworking marking knife needs until the Lee Valley’s striking knife was introduced. I will switch back-and-forth between them now to address the task at hand.
I have and use Lee Valley’s Veritas workshop striking knife, I like it, it is nice to hold. Of knives that that you listed it would be my recommendation for a first marking if you are willing to sharpen blades, otherwise get the Scalpel or the Stanley 0-10-598. I am saddened by the price increase since it was introduced. I may be wrong, but I could’ve sworn you could get three for $21 when they first came out. But at the current price is still a good value.
Another knife, I have and like is the “Stanley 0-10-598 Utility Knife foldable, Silver” that Paul Sellers uses in his videos. It’s a little beefier than the Lee Valley Veritas knife or the scalpel but still more delicate than a utility knife or a chip carving knife. It looks to be more available in England than here in the States.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001IWDBU/
I just bought from WoodCraft a Spear Point ‘Blue Steel Marking Knife 5/8″ ‘ it is on 40% off sell for the June that ends today. Because its that has no scales, I plan on using it when I need to mark legs for leveling by taping it to a block of wood. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/blue-steel-marking-knife-5-8
If you are looking at buying the Blue Spruce Tool’s Knife, I would also look at Czeck Edge Hand Tool’s knifes. https://www.czeckedge.com/collections/marking-knives
I’ve also seen video of Roy Underhill use chip carving knives has a marking knife.
Jim Felt says
Brent.
Great recommendations.
The Stanley 0-10-598 isn’t exactly common in the States it seems as it’s Made in Belgium but I found one and also bought a box of blades for it in Sheffield, UK.
Thanks for your recommendations.
Chris says
Why can’t an X-Acto knife be used?
Stuart says
It can, but hobby knife blades are a bit fragile.
fred says
For some folks a hobby knife is their first choice and they have the advantage of using replaceable blades. They do a good job IMO of striking a straight line (as in along the edged of a combination square) – But they are not as good for marking hinges where the you want to mark both with and against the grain. In the hinge example as with marking out dovetails to chop with a chisel – you want a knife that’s beefy enough to leave a groove that can hold the edge of the chisel.
MT_Noob says
An X-Acto knife or a utility knife “can” be used. And can indeed be good enough. However the flat back of the blade of a marking knife makes it easier to keep the blade of the knife against the straight edge of the ruler or square that you are using to guide the knife. With a blade that is not flat up against that edge, it is easy to wander the blade edge into the straight edge (and cutting or shaving the otherwise nice smooth edge of your ruler) or to wander into the grain. When drawing that line it takes only the slightest twist to accidentally put the blade into the edge or drift away from it. So having that flat edge lets you put that mark right up flush to the guide and you don’t have to do any contortion to account for 1/2 of the blade bevel if the blade has 2 bevels like a utility knife or X-Acto.
Koko The Talking Ape says
I’ve used marking knives for many years. If I’m using a hand saw, I usually cut a small notch to one side of the cut line to guide the saw when it starts. In soft wood, a knife can cut deep enough to physically guide one row of saw teeth (for me, the left row.)
I’ve used fancy Japanese marking knives (handed), but my favorite is the cheap snap knives you can get for a buck or two. The retractable blade makes it safe to keep in a pocket, but the blade deploys very quickly. The lock is strong enough for this purpose. The very thin blade helps penetration. The blade is sharpened on the long side, so that also helps it penetrate more deeply. Also it means that if you drop the knife, it’s unlikely to pierce your shoe. Anyway, the knife is so light that it won’t penetrate far regardless.
The only downside is that the blade can rust in humid locations. A quick wipe with TopCote takes care of that.
Olfa, Alvin, etc., make sturdier snap knives, but they don’t perform any better for marking.
NoahG says
Based on the reviews, the Stanley 10-049 Pocket knife is a popular marking knife.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Products-10-049-Pocket-Folding/dp/B00L70JJ7W/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=stanley+pocket+knife&qid=1593554864&sr=8-1
JoeM says
Stuart, you TEASE!
I kid, of course. You know we always go back and forth about cool tools.
Y’know what? I thought I HAD one of these marking knives. Turns out, no… I don’t have one. I will have to invest in a mid-level one. Oh Look! You said the magic words already! LEE VALLEY, VERITAS, MADE IN CANADA!! I guess I know what model I’m getting!… Or Models… Might get… Wait… no… We’re not getting hooked… We don’t want a repeat of the Pentel 1000 incident on our hands…
Something you didn’t cover… Umm… Some of the mid-level ones happen to be made of something hard enough to scribe on soft aluminum, and the vast majority of the marking blades are ideal when plotting to deform or shape plastic.
Also… Call it Canadian Pride… But Veritas tools, made in Canada, are usually made by people who work with these tools so often, they’re not letting a tool off the line until it fits the actual employees’ demands from the tools. If, for example, a machinist isn’t happy with a model of awl that comes off the line incapable of being thrown at a dart board and stick… then that machinist will tweak the design until EVERY one of those that come off the line will do that. Not saying this is a real thing they do, dartboards and throwing them and all that… but… Lee Valley Machinists tend to be extremely difficult to please. They’ve done woodworking, and machinist work, sometimes for decades… And if they’ve never found THE PERFECT design for X or Y tool… They’ll just make one that is. Bring it to their supervisors, and often the Lee family themselves, and make a case for this to be the next Veritas tool.
That Veritas tools still fall into the mid-range for tools is intentional. The Bespoke, Heirloom Quality tools are something that they usually only have a single person making, totally alone to get it perfect. They might as well call them masterpieces instead. We may be Canadians, but they are some TRULY crazy Cannucks working in the machine shops of Lee Valley.
dll932 says
Yet another alternative: I sharpened the end and one side. It’s also useful as a striking tool. It’s sharp enough to mark in a pinch: https://countycomm.com/products/eod-robotics-breacher-bar