I convinced myself that I want to get into wood turning, and almost bought a Rikon midi lathe, model 70-1516VSRK.
Frankly, I still might.
ToolGuyd has some unspent equipment funds for the year, and I’ve considered this Rikon lathe before.
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There are a few projects I’d like to make – mainly round trays and cylindrical-shaped objects, and a lathe is the easiest tool.
I’ve done my research and this is the same model that I short-listed last year.
Rikon is known for good quality, good customer service, and this machine offers ample power, convenient variable and adjustable speed, and it ships with a chuck you can add different jaws to, rather than it being a separate purchase.
I figured I’d get this and a universal stand. If the lathe deserved permanent floor space, I’d build a mobile cart.
I’ve tested a midi-size lathe before (wasn’t a fan of the machine quality). This size isn’t light, but I know I can lift and move it to a shelf.
So, I figured I’d pull it out for projects and put it away in between.
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However, wood turning has a learning curve – am I ready to revisit that?
Just as I was about to place an order, I asked myself 2 questions. Is there something else I need right now instead? Is this something I like the idea of, or something I will really get into?
I’ve already got my hands full, and so this is going on the “maybe in a few months” list.
I bring this up because it’s a common trap to fall into.
At this time, I’m looking to downgrade from a SawStop cabinet table saw. I purchased it fully knowing its time in my workshop would be limited, but I thought I would be moving to a sliding saw. Instead, I want to move back to a jobsite saw that I can pull outside when needed.
The SawStop has more power, a nicer fence, larger table, and works with full-size accessories such as miter gauges. However, I have a pending project that requires ripping 6ft and 8ft boards, and haven’t been able to clear the space for it. So what’s the point of having a full-size cabinet table saw if it sees less use than a portable jobsite-type table saw?
I can find the space for a wood lathe, and ToolGuyd’s sample budget can accommodate it. But how much time will it really take to get into? Am I ready for the skill-building work right now?
It feels like I made a very grown-up decision to hold off. The Rikon with Z3 chuck is still at the top of my list.
Jared
Wood turning is fun – and messy. And a little dangerous. It includes way more purchases than just the lathe though. For one thing, you’ll need some chisels – and then you’re hit with the next big choice: HSS or carbide.
HSS tools are cheaper, but then you need the skill and accessories to sharpen them quickly and well. E.g. do you already have a Tormek or are you willing to at least buy a sharpening guide for a bench grinder? Are you skilled and diligent enough to just use diamond stones to do it by hand?
If not, then carbide is better – but those tools cost more and you’ll need to buy consumables. I would probably just go this route if I was starting over.
Will that lathe let you turn the diameter of object you want to make?
Then you’ll need finishes, sandpaper, protective gear, a vacuum setup (unless you’re comfortable with chips and dust everywhere), drill chuck, etc. Plus you’ll use all kinds of other tools in the process (which I realize you likely already have anyway). E.g. drill press, bench grinder, belt sander, etc.
I’m not trying to dissuade you. A wood lathe gives you options you wouldn’t otherwise have. I’ve used mine to make the odd metal piece too. It’s fun – and it feels like you can make something fast.
I’ve heard people give the advice that you should get the largest lathe you can right from the get go, because the weight and capacity are things you’ll appreciate over time. It’s not that I think that’s untrue, but I have only a small benchtop and a medium bolt-down lathe and I think it’s perfectly reasonable to start small. It’s the sort of thing you’ll only regret if you decide this is your true calling and you really wish you could turn large things.
frobo
A second chuck is also highly recommended. It’s much faster to change chucks than to reconfigure a chuck’s jaws from internal to external and back again.
MM
Good points all around.
Generally speaking I am a big believer in heavy stationary machinery. In fact right now I am finishing up the stand I built for my new belt-and-disc combo sander. I sourced materials at the local recycling yard: a semi-truck wheel rim, piece of 8″ oil well casing pipe, and some 3/8″ plate steel. The stand weighed about 200 lbs before I dumped a sack of play sand in the pipe.
However in this case I agree with you and I think you can actually do a lot with a fairly light machine. If you’re serious turner and you know you will be using the lathe a lot then absolutely get the heaviest model you can afford but this model is absolutely fine for a beginner. Mass is nowhere near as important for wood turning as it is for metalworking.
I built my wood lathe. I had posted about it and shared some pics on the old Toolguyd forum but I don’t think I can link to that anymore. It’s a modular design with the headstock and tailstock made as two separate pieces. The headstock is powered by a 997 series 48V DC motor and a cheapo 30A DC speed control I bought off Amazon. The motor drives the spindle with a timing belt. Power is two Dewalt batteries wired in series. The idea is that you clamp the two parts to some heavy object which acts as the bed. I normally use the big steel workbench in my welding area but I’ve also used a 6×6 laid across two sawhorses. This way it can accommodate different size workpieces. I spent well under $100 putting it together using easily sourced parts from Amazon & some baltic birch ply.
Here’s my original design:
https://web.archive.org/web/20250328112324/https://discuss.toolguyd.com/t/diy-wood-lathe-idea/3481
I since upgraded that original design to use larger ball bearings & be a little more robust overall but the general idea is the same. If anyone is interested I could Email newer photos to Stuart.
Anyway, it’s been working great for my needs. I had planned on upgrading to a full-size floor-standing lathe if necessary but thus far it’s done everything I needed it to. If you’re not doing big bowls you don’t need a big machine.
You don’t need to spend a lot of money on tooling either, at least not at first. I started with a set of Vevor traditional chisels and a set of “Vinwox” carbide-insert tools. Are any of these the best? Absolutely not. Are they plenty good enough for even intermediate use? Yes. And they’re incredible value for money. My advice is to start with something basic like that and as your needs grow you can add individual tools from higher quality makers. As you upgrade you don’t have to throw the cheapos away–they are still pieces of tool steel with handles, keep them on hand when you need a blank to make custom tooling with.
Amos Dudley
What does “midi” mean in this context? I can’t have the feeling its a typo and they actually meant “mini lathe”, but it does say it in several places on the website (and exactly once in the manual).
MM
It means this is a “middle size”. A “mini lathe” would be even smaller, something for turning pens and not much else.
Nathan
Midi musical instrument digital interface. Means you can plug your keyboard to it and make a new tube while it turns your piece
.I figure it’s a type too. Mini or maybe mid. As in mid size
fred
I never got into turning. The times I wanted to incorporate turned part into my furniture making, I either bought ready-made items or “contracted” the work out to a shop I dealt with in our business.
From the little I know about turning – I would expect that you need to get your debris/dust collection system upgrade sorted before acquiring a lathe. My system’s cyclone collector sits atop a 55gal. drum which can fill surprisingly fast – even with less debris-making tools (cabinet saw, planer etc.)
Mike S
Turning is great in the winter if you can’t heat your whole shop.