Do you use cold chisels for cutting metal? If so, I have a couple of questions for you.
1: Does the chisel pictured above look right to you for an off-the-shelf chisel? I’m wondering how hardened chisels can deform like that during the factory-to-shelf journey. That kind of damage can happen in use, but I don’t like seeing it on brand new tools.
2: What do you use your cold chisels for?
I typically only use my cold chisels in awkward situations where no other tool or method seems feasible, such as cleaning out a burr in a groove. They cut faster than you’d think, and better than a file. I’ve also used them to make cutouts in sheet metal and to remove rivets in places where I couldn’t drill them out. I can’t think of generalized examples, hence the question to you guys.
(I also used cold chisels in a research lab, to help liberate my small material samples from within encapsulating epoxy resin cylinders. The samples were mounted in epoxy to facilitate polishing. Mechanical destruction of the epoxy with cold chisels worked really well, although I’m sure it wasn’t exactly proper.)
3. What hammer do you strike cold chisels with?
After several years, I still can’t choose a preference between Vaughan and Estwing. I have mostly Vaughan sizes (wood-handled for their better economy) and an Estwing. I use the same ball pein hammers for punches (prick, center, and pin) and cold chisels.
If I had to start over, I’d probably get an Estwing in 16oz or 24oz sizes, and Vaughan for lesser-used sizes.
I also have a dead blow ball pein hammer, but I typically just use it to coerce seized parts to disassemble. In theory I might use my 3lb drilling hammer with cold chisels, but that only happened once or twice.
4: What brand do you like? I have a couple of cold chisels from Craftsman (Sears-era, I believe made by Western Forge), Dasco, Mayhew, and a PB Swiss cape chisel.