There is a lot that you can do with a 3D printer, but it can also sit around collecting dust.
A reader asked a great question about how I use mine. I’m not sure I can offer a very good or complete answer right now, but hopefully I can provide some input for anyone looking at holiday deals and wondering if now’s the right time for them to get started.
isosceles wrote:
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Stuart, just curious – what would you say are the most useful things you print? Like many I am intrigued by 3D printing, and I’m sure I could come up with any number of fun or entertaining items to print. But I don’t think I’ve ever been in a tight spot or encountered a sticky problem etc. and wished I had a 3D printer so I could whip up a widget-solution. I don’t mean to sound glib or anything for what it’s worth.
Reading a thread the other day I came across someone who said he used his to print jigs for fabrication projects, which piqued my interest. I have some fab projects I’d like to start and printing out jigs to spec def seems like it could come in handy.
Rather than think this through and then respond, it seemed like a good idea to sort through my ideas as I wrote the response. As such, the following is written in train-of-thought format and is quite long and somewhat unpolished.
My choice was either to think of how to answer the question as I answered it, or push it aside for a couple of weeks – yes, the holiday season is that busy and chaotic for me.
I have a couple of projects where I will need custom enclosures or brackets for holding electronic parts. 3D printing allows for quick iteration in ways that isn’t really possible with other methods.
Here’s another one. I have 80/20 profiles that I’ll need to tap for a future project. I might need to re-drill the holes, and that will require a jig. A 3D printer will let me create a jig, and then easily recreate it for different circumstances.
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At first I planned to make it out of metal. I made a t-slot aluminum drilling jig before, and it required a frustrating number of steps. Once I model things up, additional or replacement jigs should be easy to just print out.
I’ve printed some trinkets for the kits, as a way for me to get familiar with different settings.
Most recently, I started working on a robotic arm kit, as a skill-builder. They provide the 3D-printed parts for free – it’s open-source. I opted for the metal parts build, but there were still a ton of 3D-printed parts I needed to print myself.
The company recently partnered with a 3D printing service, and the package of parts is $300.
Benjamen makes all kinds of functional prints. See: 3D Printed Tool Storage and Organizer Accessories.
You can see more here: https://www.instagram.com/electronsmith/, and here: https://3dprints.electronsmith.com/.
I’ve seen people print out all kinds of elaborate workshop storage accessories.
For me, it’s about creating components for projects. I’m still working on that part – I’ve been slow to make progress on my 3D modeling skills, something I hope to get back after the holiday season.
It allows for inexpensive iteration.
Woodpeckers makes all kinds of router jigs.
That’s not something I could justify buying. But maybe I can print something out for a one-off project.
A search for 3D printed router radius jig turns up so many. Potentially, I can grab a free design and then modify it to suit my needs.
You can make something like that out MDF or other materials, but 3D printing a tried-and-tested template is easy.
A search for 3D print miter saw dust turns up lots of various adapters and connectors.
My creative projects have been on hold for a while, but I’m pushing my way back to it. Having a 3D printer means I’m able to roll over more road blocks than before.
Here’s the assembly progress on the robotic arm kit I bought. It’s been idle for a few weeks.
It’s given me so many ideas on how to work out some of the projects in my to-do list.
Scratch-building complex shapes or assemblies is something that’s new to me. I’m used to very rectilinear-type constructs, and making do with easily-accessible off-the-shelf parts.
Here’s a test jig I built a long time ago. I didn’t have the ability to quickly manufacture elegant brackets or custom components.
So, I made do with matching hole sizes and spacings.
I have large plate casters for a workbench I haven’t built yet. Once I get my mill up and running, or maybe set up my CNC router again, I can make my own aluminum mounting plates. Or maybe I can just get pre-cut plate stock and use a drill press.
A 3D printer won’t help with that, but could help me visualize how things will look. That’s something I’ve used wood for before, and iterations require making everything from scratch. A small tweak on a 3D printer would be easy, and help me test for dimensions or sizing before committing to pricier slabs of metal.
It took me a while to connect capabilities to potential, and I’m still not there.
Like other tools, things open up once you gain familiarity.
I had all kinds of ideas about how I would use my router table. The same goes for my drill press and other tools.
Let’s say I wanted to make a parts tray out of wood. There are a dozen of different ways I can make one in a couple of minutes. I’m not yet at the point where I can use a 3D printer in the same way.
I’m used to taking away from materials, or combining them in very specific ways. 3D printers have different constraints but also other areas where there fewer limits.
I didn’t buy my 3D printer, ToolGuyd did. The same will probably be true of the next one. As such, my journey is going to be a little different than any of yours, as I don’t need to fully justify my purchases.
It’s interesting to see all the kinds of different things others have been making with 3D printers.
Some people are now 3D printing miniatures and models. Others make toys. I’ve seen people make fixes for things around the house.
I bought mine to explore the tech from a ToolGuyd standpoint, and also for use in future projects.
I didn’t want another hobby. 3D printers are at the point now where they’re proper tools that don’t require a lot of futzing around. There’s a small learning curve.
The challenge for me is in minimizing the gap between what a 3D printer can be used for and what I am using it for.
You rely on the huge repository of free models and files within various online directories. But for my needs, I need to delve deeper into 3D modeling and engineering principles.
Once I can manage to do that – get back up to speed with 3D modeling principles – it’s only a matter of what I need to build.
3D printing is not a “now or never” type of technology. It’s only getting better.
There was a time when prices increased along with capabilities. Today, $400 seems to be a good entry point.
And yes, it requires time to learn. But the same is true with all tools.
I pushed back for the longest time, and my earlier attempts to gain 3D printing experience didn’t go so well.
You have to think about your goals and interests, and also look at what others are doing for inspiration.
For ME, 3D printing isn’t so much a tool to fix things, but a tool to create.
But it can be a way to just explore.
This is a hobby glue bottle holder from DSPIAE that you can buy. It prevents square hobby glue bottles from tipping over and making a mess on your workbench.
You can buy this one, or make your own. You can make one from wood, metal, or 3D print different types of setups.
There are lots of designs you can download, buy, or build off of – Google search for 3D printed hobby glue bottle holder.
What could you do with a band saw? Table saw? Miter saw? Lathe? Router table? Track saw?
Until I gained more time and experience, I wasn’t sure what *I* would do with a 3D printer. That picture has been getting clearer.
Back in 2017 I bought an Instant Pot from Amazon. I saw all the ways people were using them, and thought “Wow, I’d love to do that, too.”
There was a Black Friday deal, and I get all kinds of exhausted and purchase-happy that time of year. So I bought a small 3 quart model.
The Instant Pot sat on the shelf until I finally donated it. I wasn’t able to connect what I could do with it, and what I wanted to do.
That wasn’t the first or last time that has happened to me.
With tools, I don’t need full justification. Sometimes I buy different equipment to explore for ToolGuyd purposes. It usually works out, but not always.
There are some larger woodworking projects on my to-do list, and after that I’ll be thinking long and hard about whether I really need floor-standing tools.
The good thing about 3D printers is that there’s so much versatility outside of pure functionality.
Maybe I can make lanyard beads for my daughter or a paracord knotting project.
A GI Joe Classified-scale MMS is close to $80 on Amazon. The older Cobra version is $53 at Hasbro Pulse. Some folks made something kind of close and put the files on the internet for free.
I found this grabber toy at a gift shop. I wonder if I can make something a little nicer.
You can find grabber toys on Amazon for fairly cheap. What if I want mine to have lights? A specific shape or design?
No, you don’t need a 3D printer to make these things, but there are ways 3D printing can make the process easier or better.
I tend to be a visual napkin-design type of person. 3D printing can help with jigs or limited parts until I can eventually develop better design skills.
I keep bringing up modeling, but one doesn’t need to be a whiz at that to benefit from 3D printing.
Plenty of people are remarkable with what they can do with a 3D printer. Others have top of the line everything sitting on a bench collecting dust. It can be the same with woodworking, hobby metalworking, cameras, and all sorts of other stuff.
This time of year is a great time to save money on 3D printers and accessories. Or, simply gather inspiration and then buy when you’re fully ready.
I’ll be exploring 3D printing more for ToolGuyd purposes, mostly because it seems reader interest is higher than it’s ever been, but also because it’s an excuse to budget more time for creative projects.
I’m at the point where I’ve printed some useful things, but have yet to really dive into what I want to use 3D printing for.
Cabinet knobs or pulls? I can buy those. Robot motor brackets? Sensor housings? Test jig sensor bracket for holding a speed sensor?
For me, it’s about doing things in a easier, quicker, or more affordable way than otherwise.
I’ve changed the configurations of my organizer racks a couple of times. Shown above is one of them before the most recent changes. Getting the height spacings right can be a huge pain, and sometimes I mess it up. Next time I might quickly design and print custom spacers or positioning brackets.
I want to design a compact SD card holder with a small dust cover. That’s something that I could probably make out of other materials, but not as easily.
There’s lots of potential, and not everyone’s journey is going to be the same.
Once you gain experience, both with the machine and in designing your own parts or creations, that’s when it becomes easier to come up with more useful parts. Few people are going to get there on Day 1.
MikeS
I have a couple of sd card holders i designed and work well. Happy to share with you to iterate on.
One thing I find is thst most models seem to come as stl and not step compatible, so they afe not all that easy to modify since they share basically a mesh shell rather than an editable model with instructions. I understand why, its just a point to keep in mind when discussing downloading from the internet. Several times it turned out easier to just draw it up from scratch than tomtry to edit someone else’s mesh.
Also, not everything you find is actually well sorted. It may just be more prototype like. Its not always easy to find well sorted models, and ones that are may be just as likely to want to protect their efforts as they are to share freely.
Stuart
Thanks! If it’s not public I’ll ask for a link once I get through the next few weeks.
I can understand why people started uploaded limited files. Too often now, I see posts on social media where someone uploaded a design for free only to see someone grabbed it and is selling either the digital files, the prints, or both on some online marketplace.
Nathan
Any thoughts on laser cutters? I was looking at a creality product
I know 3 people with 3d printers and I’m partly thinking I should get a different item
Stuart
I have been offered a bunch of sub-$1000 samples, most with open designs, and I believe some with rudimentary enclosures. I don’t trust those designs and ignored or declined every free review sample opportunity so far.
I check into lasers on occasion.
There are low-power hobby machines, some with questionable and potentially unsafe designs, mid-level machines that seem to be require frequently fiddling, and Epilog which are very cost-prohibitive for casual users.
I see some common recommendations, but I don’t trust their reliability enough to open my wallet yet.
S
The biggest thing with laser cutters is that they’re “dirty” vs 3d printers.
Laser cutters burn material away, so the soot, ash, and fumes need to be appropriately dealt with.
There’s plenty of well documented mitigation methods for it, but it’s a big reason that 3d printers have taken off instead, because they’re inherently cleaner, and depending on the filament, have far less ventilation stuff to deal with.
MM
I have a lot of experience with laser cutters, though not the hobby class machines. Mine was an industrial model from Universal Laser and cost around $15k when it was new. I’m not sure what they cost now, probably less, but again this is not a hobby type machine. It was 100 watts CO2.
Setting it up required work & additional expense. It needed very clean compressed air. My shop already had a big compressor & a refrigerated dryer but I had to run a new line to the laser’s location. The ventilation needs were significant. It required an exhaust blower to extract fumes, and quite a powerful one at that too. I used a 1.5 HP dust extractor which actually was a bit marginal in terms of power even though I had a very short duct run, I really should have had something bit a bit higher static pressure. They require constant babysitting because of the risk of fire. Operation was extremely simple, it was literally set up like a normal printer, you would “print” to it just like any other printer. Running inert gas like Argon or Nitrogen instead of compressed air is an option, and would reduce fire risk, but in my opinion it wouldn’t reduce the fire risk enough to where I’d feel comfortable letting the laser run unattended. And of course running bottled gas or setting up an N2 separator adds to the cost.
Safety is a concern, as any laser capable of cutting can instantly do serious harm to your vision, which makes me very leery of some of the hobbyist solutions. The Universal Laser had a 100% enclosure with safety interlocks on every door so there’s no risk of the beam escaping.
The only real “gotcha” was that if the operator forgot to turn on the compressed air, and/or forgot to turn on the ventilation, then the smoke from cutting could very quickly fog the focusing lens, at which point it would instantly be ruined because then the laser energy was burning the foggy gunk straight onto the lens itself. That was a $300 mistake I only made once. The laser cartridge itself would only last so long and required replacement after about 5-6 years, IIRC. Cost for the replacement cartridge was a couple thousand bucks.
I found it extremely useful to have around. One of the main things I used it for was “printing” cad drawings. This made it very easy to check the fit of various parts: Let’s say I was designing a bracket to mount a pneumatic tank to a truck chassis. I could laser-cut it out of cardboard, then try and bolt it up on the truck to make sure the holes were in the exact right place. I also used it often to make fixuring parts. For example, I once had to make a bunch of aluminum wedges on the milling machine. To make the angled cut I laser-cut a plastic insert that fit in my milling vise. That insert held the part at the correct angle while I tightened the vise, then I could make a simple straight cut to get the angle I needed. It was a lot faster to draw up and cut that simple plastic wedge than it would have been to set up an angled vise on the mill table instead.
Something else to be aware of is that their cutting ability varies greatly depending on the wavelength of the laser and the material involved. The model we had (CO2) was extremely effective at cutting wood, paper, and most plastics, especially acrylic (PMMA). In fact it’s almost magical how effectively it would cut PMMA, leaving perfect glass-smooth edges. But some plastics had horrible cut quality, for example polycarbonate (lexan) would turn black and bubble up around the cut. Special lasers are available with other wavelengths for other applications. We were considering purchasing another machine which had a YaG laser that could cut thin metals and engrave thick metals without the need for a marking compound.
MikeK
If you look on YouTube at different 3D printing channels, often the first things people print are items to make the 3D printer better, like filament guides. My most recent use was better film holders for an Epson scanner. There’s a wealth of already-created files online, but invariably they need some tweaking for a specific use case, and I need better CAD skills. That seems my biggest holdup is learning a good and free CAD program to create those things I want. The software part is a bigger hurdle than getting a 3D printer working these days. There was one guy on YouTube that fabricated parts for his car he was modifying, stuff like better airflow to the turbo.
CMF
Neophyte here. I know what 3D printers are and how the work, but never used or have any understanding.
Stuart, above you mention that RD printers have got to the point where you do not need much extra in the way of tools.
An analogy to PC’s, in the early days, it was really the pure nerds that played or had them (the white box days. Then slowly they became more commercial and accessible to the mainstream (OS’s & Software having a lot to do with it). Then they became where every household had one, and the kids had one (and the white box became a Ferrari). It was like you “couldn’t live” without a computer.
My guess or impression is that although 3DP have come a long way, it could be 10+ years before it becomes a household item like the PC printer. maybe something will come out a supplant it before 3DP becomes that ubiquitous.
Stuart
My latest 3D Printer is about as easy to use as a household inkjet printer. Like an inkjet or laser printer, you sometimes have to figure out why something didn’t work properly, such as why it’s printing on letter paper rather than the envelopes you loaded into the back.
There are some things I had to learn. For example, when I print something with finer layers, I need to wait until it cools completely to remove the print because the adhesion is too strong.
When things go wrong, the internet can help, but the same is true for all technology and machinery. Modern machines have advanced to where software and sensors take care of a lot of things for you.
CMF
Again being the Neophyte, some questions for Stuart or others who are 3DPrinter Savvy.
Stuart’s second picture shows a couple of silver struts which could be plastic or could be aluminum. What I am curious, as someone who will get into 3DP at some point (hopefully), are these made on a basic entry level printer or do you need something upgraded? Say the struts are 2″ square tubing, how long could you make one, 6″, 2 feet, 8 feet(!), and what is the material used?
I am assuming that if printed with the same type of material as the strut bought from a store, strength would be the same? Do you save money or or it cost more to print stuff?
And so on.
Stuart
Those silver parts are 80/20 t-slot aluminum framing. You can print shapes that look like that, but it won’t have the same strength as aluminum.
You can also print it out of metal, but that’s way above hobbyist price ranges. I also doubt it would have anywhere close to the same strength and physical characteristics.
There are a couple of brands, this is what I stick with: https://8020.net/framing-options/t-slotted-profiles.html . It’s extruded and typically available in 8-foot or shorter lengths.
I included the image because I plan to make a drilling jig for expanding the hole for a larger tap size. Free-drilling something like that doesn’t seem like a good idea, and the bench leg is too long to put into a drill press.
ElectroAtletico
….so at 1100 a.m. I started printing a T-shaped ruler with holes so as to help me with my projects. I went to bed for a nap because I have the midshift tonight. When I woke up at 4: 45 pm to get ready ….. there was a spaghetti of filament waiting for me.
Back to the ol’ drawing board.
Doug
Try upgrading the build plate – I’ve only had one failed print on the Biqu Panda Frostbite plate in the past year.
MikeS
What filament type and what plate type?
Very cheap school glue that comes in a stick and rubbed onto the build plate ever month or so (depending on the volume of your printing) can do wonders – it has for me. Prusa recommends/sells Kores. Here’s a link: https://www.prusa3d.com/product/glue-for-printbed/
The right combo of filament/plate, and if not contraindicated, some glue – seems to do the trick very well for me and from what I’ve read, for a lot of people.
Doug
The intersection of woodworking, 3d printing and laser cutting is where I live. I have used my 3d printer for so many things around the shop, from drawer organizers (look up the Gridfinity storage system) and tool wall organization, to having just printed and assembled a loose-mortise machine (similar to the Festool Domino). The great thing about the hobby is that if you have an idea, someone with more design skill has probably already created a file for it.
The 3d printer and laser cutter have also served as a force multiplier, allowing me to work on multiple projects at once. They also allow me to manufacture items for sale when not being used for my own projects. Like Stuart mentioned, some 3d printers are not much more complicated to use than a laser printer, and barely cost more than a laser printer. The laser cutter allows me to quickly cut routing templates, jigs, and storage boxes and the 3d printer allows me to print parts and jig components. Hardware makers are starting to integrate AI into both tools to make the design process even easier.
There are a number of great file repositories out there to get started with 3d printing without having to design your own models:
– makerworld.com
– printables.com
– thangs.com
– yeggi.com
Reddit also has subs for 3d printing, such as a r/3dprinting, r/functionalprint and r/3dprintsintheshop
There are numerous makers and videos on YouTube.
Start with:
– Swedish Maker – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNLZ0WnR51U
– Wittworks – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVDhAKxNcJA&t=70s
Hope someone finds these resources useful!
MikeS
All excellent recommendations!
CMF
So when you 3DP, you do it because it is fun (hobby), because you can, or because it costs less than buying the item you printed?
I do not know if it is still available, but the entry level Dremel 3DP which for a time was the cheapest costing 3DP; something this basic, or similar is what most of you are using? Or what you use is double, triple or more than something like the Dremel?
MikeS
I’m on a MK4s. When Prusa intros a CoreXY w/ the upcoming Bondtech INDX heads/system – I plan to get one of those.
My cousin is a teacher and teaches kids 3D printing. They have Bumbu and Dremmel and maybe a random model strewn in there. Says that the Dremmel is the least trouble of all the printers they have used/tried. Says some things fail on the Bambu – but it has a larger volume, which is why they use it; but never has failures with what they print on the Dremmel.
MikeS
I just looked up the Dremmel – which is still available but not from Dremmel anymore. Its $2k – so, noticeably more than a Bambu or Prusa or any of the typical “homeowner” printers that people seem to talk about these days.
https://3pitech.com/products/dremel-digilab-3d45-3d-printer
Stuart
Dremel left the 3D business almost 4 years ago – https://toolguyd.com/dremel-digilab-3d-printer-business/ .
The Dremel printer was a rebranded Flashforge, and Dremel focused on giving attention to customer and educator support.
I haven’t seen anyone talking much about Flashforge anymore. Even if they are, the Dremel-branded models are outdated by today’s standards.
CMF
Stuart, or anyone who knows, the last pic in your article has a storage rack for all the part cases you have; what is it you printed, all the black frame of the rack?
If so, how do you attach the various printed parts, with screws? Are the printed parts structurally solid enough to accept screws and does it hold up as well as store bought materials you would have bought to make such a rack?
Stuart
Nothing in the rack is 3D printed.
Because the vertical channels don’t have any stops, I always have to install any side rails or drawer slides with spacers. I’ve done it more times than I’d like to admit, and it’s always a pain to kind of improvise.
As discussed in the post, next time I’m designing custom spacers or positioning brackets or jigs.
CMF
What about the small parts storage cases you made the rack for, could they be 3DP or is that too complex a task?
Stuart
Potentially, yes, but not to the same size, quality, or features.
Some people might attempt it, I wouldn’t.
It’s like how some people will make the tools to cut logs into wood boards they can dry, mill, and then build into a project. 3D printing can be used in different ways depending on everyone’s individual needs and wants.
MikeS
People seem to be asking: what can you 3D print?
Here are some things I’ve done (many as gifts for my wife):
SD Card Holder
uSD Card Holder
Phone Stand (from the side, its shaped like a heart)
Balloons in a stand (3 ballons, 3 “strings”, a stand to hold them)
Clover pendant
Putt-Putt course (has a frame and lego-like parts to mix and match)
Quick Release Hold Down for my M18 Miter Saw (used the bar from the original and copied the Festool Hold Down Clamp – so it looks just like the Festool) – and it works fantastically, I love it
Drill Press Collet
various sizes of Washer
Wedge to take up slack so a knob fit better on its post
Extension Arm for a 3LT Thingy (original arm was too short, I made a longer one – original was aluminum, mine is PLA – not as strong, but still works for me)
Storage blocks for various drill and 1/4″ bits
MikeS
Festool has official printable models: https://www.printables.com/@Festool
isosceles
Cheers for the reply Stuart – I have this bookmarked to read this wknd!