A couple of years ago ToolGuyd bought a couple of hammers to test out, to see if I could find the best one.
I delayed the project multiple times before finally giving up.
Most of the hammers above were purchased, with one or two being older test samples included because modern copies were difficult or impossible to source.
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Do you know what I learned? Nothing substantial.
A long time ago, when I first started ToolGuyd around 17 years ago, I had questions that couldn’t easily be answered.
Did I want a wood-handled hammer, or steel? 16 ounce was a good starting point, but should I buy a 22 ounce next, or 12 ounce?
Did I want a curved claw for pulling nails or straight rip claw for prying?
Straight handle vs axe-style?
Over the years, trends appeared. Nail-starting notches with magnets became common on most framing hammers and others close in size or weight. High-velocity hammers became a thing – “hits like titanium but at a fraction of the cost.”
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I have tried so many hammers over the years. With all types of brands, styles, and sizes of nail hammers in front of me, there was just one question to answer. Which one is the best?
I couldn’t answer it. Some were better than others, but as for which one was overall best, the results blended together.
This is not like sanders, where you can rank the tools based on scratch pattern uniformity or dust collection.
You’ve got to take a hammer, swing it, and then swing it enough to where you know its feel apart from others. And then you try another one to see if you like it better.
When you get a prescription for corrective glasses or contact lenses, there are all kinds of measurements they can take. However, that’s not where the prescription comes from. They sit you down in front of a machine with different lenses that can be arranged in many combinations.
“Is this clearer or blurrier? Better, or worse?” They ask this as they switch between “before” and “after” lens combinations. And then they repeat it until they’ve honed in a combination that provides the clearest view to your eyes. That’s where your prescription comes from.
Choosing the best hammer is a similar process, and the same is true for other tools, although it takes a bit longer.
There are many measurements you can take, some of which require a hammer to be cut into its parts.
What matters most is the sum of all of the parts, and how it feels to you.
You can choose between wood handles, fiberglass, or steel. No grip, rubbery cushion grip, or in the case of Estwing, laminated leather grip.
Some hammers are longer, others shorter. The striking face diameter can vary, and so can the shape.
There are many ways you can quantify hammer performance, but it comes to qualitative differences. Each hammer has a character, with most very close to each other.
And a lot of times none of that matters because it comes down to price. What’s the best hammer at $15? $25? $40?
I hit a lot of nails and then pulled them out. That’s not enough.
If I swung a different hammer every day for a month, at the end I might have a lead as to which was best for me. Or maybe not.
What I realized is that there are 2 types of potential hammer users – casual users who probably won’t ever tell a difference between a group of like-style hammers, and more demanding users who should probably explore different options to find their specific preferences.
Basically, it didn’t seem to matter, and so I abandoned the testing.
Many of the people who cared most about finding “the best” didn’t really need the best – almost anything would have suited them. For frequent and demanding users, the best option might not have been what’s best for them.
It was definitely interesting to explore the different options and feature combinations.
While possible to come up with objective ranking, this is a subjective type of tool.
Which brand has the best hex wrenches? I have seen different reviews and recommendations over the years, and almost always they conflict with my actual experiences with various brands and tools.
So what is one supposed to do, when the numbers suggest what’s best and worse, but this is in disagreement with hands-on experience?
The value for me was in further exploring my own preferences.
My family got together last month. One of my cousins was carrying around a windbreaker – in peak summer heat – and using the pockets to haul around his gear. He’s young – just started college – and this seemed effective although not ideal.
At his age, I just crammed everything into cargo short pockets. Carrying a light jacket for its pockets seemed like a good alternative to having everything mash around legs.
Other family members – who I had previously introduced to one of my favorite gear bag and pouch brands – had tried to convince him to try a small bag. He said he didn’t like bags. Shoulder bags were off the table.
We got together a few days later, and I brought some gear pouches with me, for him to potentially choose from.
I bought them for myself to try, thinking they’d be perfect for hauling some of my small tools or gear around, but thus far haven’t put them to much use.
He loved the size, loved the colors, and I gave him both.
Some people like shoulder bags, others like gear pouches. You can’t force a preference.
While everyone was together, my older cousins brought up the kitchen knives I bought them a while back, and how those have been their favorites. None of their favorites will appear on any “best” lists.
Another of my younger cousins need precision screwdrivers, as a roommate absconded with hers. I’m putting together a couple of spares, along with a Japanese-style wood-cutting saw for her to try. I don’t think she’ll care about the screwdrivers as long as they work for what she needs, but maybe the Japanese pull saw will prove more favorable than others she has used.
Back to hammers. Do you like straight hammers or curved? Heavier or lighter? Nail claw or rip claw? Wood, fiberglass, steel, or maybe titanium handles? What type of grip?
The answers will differ, sometimes based on the type of work, other times individually.
I should have ended my hammer testing earlier, but I kept trying to wade through. There are plenty of fine choices, and I came up with 10 different recommendations for 10 types of users.
The same happened when I bought a bunch of linesman and long nose pliers for comparison. Except for the lowest quality tools, it really came down to preference.
I have learned similar about most types of hand tools, and sometimes powered equipment as well, but I was somehow convinced I could cull the groups of tools to just a couple of “best” recommendations.
I – or rather ToolGuyd – buy all kinds of hand tools so as to explore their differences, especially in character, quality, and user experience. Somehow I expected that the differences between hammers would more concrete and less abstract than simply how they felt.
At the end of everything, I donated most of the hammers except the ones I’d consider buying again for myself. I still haven’t chosen – it came down to Dewalt and Estwing – and I expect to part with the rest sometime soon. Are those the best? No. I just like them the best. Mostly.
Searching for the best product in a particular category can be a way for shoppers to begin their research. What I’ve found, however, is that such recommendations are often taken as gospel.
I will also often see requests on social media – “what’s best [specific tool]?” Well, what are you going to use it for?
Yesterday there was a post where someone needs tools for work and said they always only see Dewalt and Milwaukee around their commercial jobsites. People are recommending Ryobi without asking questions. Ryobi is okay, sure, but is that the right choice for say a utility worker (not that most would have to supply their own power tools)?
I feel that, as a shopper, “best product” recommendations are most helpful when they don’t matter, and least helpful when the actual tool use and experience matter a lot.
Consumers today seem highly focused on superlatives. They want the best tools – the fastest, the most powerful, and so forth. But is this ever what they need? How often is the “best” really the best for them?
Almost every day now, my news feed is full of content mill “tool buying guides” with bland and often disagreeable recommendations and rankings.
Stop caring about what’s best, and focus more on what’s best for you. If you’re using your tools every day, sometimes that will mean trying some new things.
As I work through my backlog, that’s what I’ll be focusing more on – the feel and complete experience of different tools.
Do you prefer tool belts? Suspenders? Pouches? Bags? Boxes? Sometimes you’ve got to try them all to find out.
If you need the best anything, as opposed to simply being inclined to think you do, you should be seeking your own answers. If there’s one thing I’ve learned here at ToolGuyd over the years, it’s this.
Charlie
Bluegrass hammers were the best. Belknap out of Louisville, sadly gone now for almost 40 years. Mine are 55+ years old, and still my favorites. Saved for special occasions now.
Clay
I have some Bluegrass pliers that were my dad’s, but no hammers. Will keep a look out.
Gary T
I think it is a case of not which one is best, but which one is the best for what you are going to do with it. Sometimes I find that the one I like best will change. That is why I like to have a few around so I can use the one that seems better for the job that day.
Everyone is different and what is best for one person is not the best for someone else.
ABC
Tools are a crazy market, you have real everyday users who wear out hammer faces and sharpening stones, beginners who just need to get something done, and people who view $3000 tool cabinets as garage fashion accessories. You can say the same for $80k pavement princess trucks.
What’s best often has nothing to do with how they will use it or what the person needs–or even the specs of the tool. My friend recently bought a car because he “liked how it looks,” I mean can you even imagine? The best is the most expensive, flashiest marketing, the one you saw in the tool belt of the real pro you hired to do your roof. I really don’t know which consumer brands vie for, the guy who will buy 20 hammers in his life or the guy who will pay triple for one.
Nate
Well, if all cars will fundamentally do the job of getting you where you’re going, and most cars in a class get pretty similar mileage and maintenance needs…
…what’s wrong with letting looks be the tie-breaker? I’d much rather walk out to the driveway every morning and be proud, than resigned to my fate.
(A bunch of Pontiac Aztek drivers just shifted uncomfortably in their seats.)
Bam
Azte – the single uggliest car ever made – closely followed by the
PT Looser (cruiser)
Wayne R.
Back when I was working at cellular sites, I collected a pile of tools that were left scattered all over. It was easy to leave something somewhere and have no idea where you left it when it was discovered missing.
From this pile, I grabbed a pair of 8″ dikes to cut some fence wire. I stuck it past the leaves around the fence, got it over the wire and squeezed. I squeezed that tool closed and the wire wasn’t cut. The handle ends were touching and the jaws were wide open. Into the recycle bin. Nobody wants that stuff.
The adage about “What’s the best camera? The one you have with you.” plays here too. To be in a tool kit, it’s gotta be reliable, no question. And handy, available. Plus, we all like to feel some pride in the thoroughness & quality of the kit we’ve assembled.
Is it the best? It’s here, in my hand, and it’ll get the job done. In this moment, it’s the very best.
Tom
Yeah, fully agree. Use what you have, if you have it.
Buy what you don’t have, at a price that makes sense to you. If that doesn’t meet your quality expectations, then upgrade.
Don’t buy what you don’t need. Save the money for the upgrades.
I’ve upgraded my circlip pliers and hex wrench sets over the last few years, but mostly buying the moderately priced version of what I needed has worked well.
Matt_T
Best hammers for me are steel or fiberglass handles for durability. Don’t really care about stuff like ergonomics and vibration. Anything requiring a lot of hammering I’m reaching for an air hose.
Luis
Is there any chance you can get through some of the Bosch tools that were presented a couple days ago on the official YT channel?
Stuart
I haven’t watched the video yet – it’s been on my to-do list!
Big Richard
Maybe add the new DeWalt Atomic grinders to that to do list, too.
https://www.dewalt.com/searchlanding?search=atomic+grinder
Stuart
Thanks – I’ll ask Dewalt PR if there’s a fact sheet to help me get up to speed. Those look alright, although I wish they were 12V Max instead of 20V Max Atomic.
Big Richard
I’m still waiting on the release or sell sheets to get some more details myself, but it is a good start. I’m guessing/hoping they will have them on hand at FABTECH next week.
The die grinders would have been great on 12v.
Tom
A month ago I would have wanted them to be 12V as well. But recently I bought the 12V DCF500 ratchet. Great tool, love it: but I had to upgrade my 12V batteries, as it would stall under load on the 2.0AH batteries unless they were fresh off the charger. Fine with a new 5.0, probably would be fine with a 3.0, but….I may as well use the little Powerstack battery in an 18V/20V tool.
MM
Those look sweet, thanks for sharing. And I, at least, am happy they’re on 20V Max.
Tdot77
Those look awesome! I like the slimmer bodies(hence Atomic) on these, especially the die grinders which are usually absurdly large and bulky for no reason. Thanks for sharing those. Hopefully ToolGuy’d can get some of these to check out!?
Lawson
I have 2 older Estwing 20oz. straight claw, doubt I’ll use anything else, but I don’t make a living hammering either. I use them mostly for demo/prying as I’m a kitchen and bath rehab/remodel.
CA
+1 on Estwing. Never had an issue and prefer the straight claw for splitting shims off 2 x 4s.
Jason T.
For me the best is whatever I like to use the most. And best is not necessarily the most expensive either. I like quality, but a lot of the time quality can be found in lower cost tools. I’ve got all kinds of brands of tools, from Harbor Freight to Snap On. But what is best for me and what I like to use the most is my old made in the USA Craftsman. Raised panel wrenches, people used to hate on. But it’s what I grew up on and they feel fine in the hand and they still work. I’ve got better wrenches, but I still reach for the old raised panel Craftsmans first. Best hammer for me, a fiberglass Craftsman hammer that my dad gave me when I was a teenager. It was just like his that he bought in 1980 and that he built our house with. His hammer has a lot of wear and tear on it, much more than mine, but they are the same model and he taught me a lot of things with that hammer, so that’s why it’s the best hammer for me.
frobo
You said it well; a hammer is a very personal item and what you use obviously has a lot of history behind it. I learned a lot from my dad too, and many of my tool buying decisions were based on what he (and his father before him) used. When it came to hammers, though, I made my own way. My dad had a couple of wood-handled True Temper “Perfect” curved claw hammers that I just never warmed up to. For me I settled fairly early on an Estwing 16 oz framer with blue vinyl handle. (That, plus a 32 oz Vaughan waffle head framer that hits like a sledge hammer but isn’t kind to my arm and elbow so it’s saved for special occasions.)
As for wrenches and other things, most of the stuff out there is, in fact, good enough. I continue to use Craftsman raised panel combo wrenches in fractional sizes, and they work every bit as good as the other sets I have from MAC, Snap-On, Husky, Gearwrench, etc. In reality, a lot of hand tool buying decisions are probably not made on functionality but on price, as well as intangible attributes (aesthetics, bragging rights, etc.). Comparisons of actual functionality of common tools would really be splitting hairs in most cases.
It’s a slightly different situation with power tools; I suspect there’s a wider gap between the best and the worst of them. Still, any of the better known brands will definitely get the job done.
Bonnie
I determined pretty early on on my consumer life that very rarely is there any universal *best* of anything. Particularly anything you put your hands on. You can compare stats and specs all day long, but for the vast majority of things, the specs only need to be good enough and the things that will actually make the difference between “good enough” and “I love this” aren’t going to be captured on a spec sheet or in a shootout.
Laptops? Hammers? Drills? Almost always the things I find that draw me to one or the other are so personal I wouldn’t use them as reasons to recommend them to others. My uses are rarely pushing anything to it’s absolute performance maximum. I’m not rendering CGI movie frames or drilling 3″ boreholes all day. The things that matter tend to be weight, balance, handfeel, and just stuff like where did the designer put certain switches and keys and if those are the places I naturally look for them. Even somewhat objective differences like repairability and top-end power… Depend entirely on the user’s preferences.
No listicle or “we tested 37 drills and here’s the BEST ONE!!!!11!” is going to talk about the grip having a 15* angle or a 10* angle, or the depth of the trigger and engagement curve, and even if they do they can’t tell me which one I will actually prefer in use. But pick it up in the store and I can instantly tell you which one fits my arm/hand better. Especially in this day and age where frankly most tools (and phones, and laptops, and blenders, etc) are more than powerful enough for regular users, and it’s only certain quite specific jobs that really need to bother with top-end specs or anything cutting edge.
MM
Well said.
OldDominionDIYer
My father built my childhood home(s) with a 16 ounce Fuller hammer, the all metal with rubber grip version. I naturally gravitated to that style and have owned and still own many metal shanked rubber grip hammers of various weights and style, and you’re right there is little difference in performance. I like the traditional smooth face, round head and I do like the nail magnet feature only because I have both and learned my tendencies. Then I went out and bought a long wooden handled Milwaukee 19 ounce smooth faced model and have been exceedingly happy with it, often thinking about how I’ve been missing out all these years! I still have a lot of various styles and configurations but that hickory “ax” handled style Milwaukee has quickly become my favorite and I’m not sure I can say exactly why, but it just works for me.
arlcrane
Why am I wasting time reading this? I should be out swinging my 45 year old wooden handle hammer. Couldn’t care less what brand it is. It’s my favorite, although I have many others that cost a small fortune.
Steve
Dalluge was always in my bags. California framing from 1990 to 2010. I’m still looking for my old hammer I don’t know if you can even buy a Duluth today?
I switched to titanium as I got older. Then they got really expensive. For framing, it’s a straight claw.
I don’t climb ladders anymore so that makes me a handyman and I use a shorter wood handled 12 oz Vaughn and I’m happy.
Thanks to everybody for the discussions! don’t
Leo B.
If you were swinging the Dalluge 21 oz milled face, the closest currently made is the Dalluge DF series. The head doesn’t have the same chrome polish, and the claws are a little different, but the balance is similar and the handle is still slim. Might be worth checking out. The Harbor Freight titanium hammer isn’t too bad if you want one in that particular flavor. Hope this helps!
JSH
hey, kind of unrelated, but could you please post something about this year’s advent calendars soon?
Mister Mike
My hammers are less about the weight and more about the feel of the handle and swing. My favorite is an EASCO 16 oz with a wooden handle that has a twist and bulge for a right hand grip. For heavier knocking I have a BERYLCO which I found beneath a house that was built in 1905-10. It’s made of a bronze alloy to prevent sparks. I have three 100+yr old ballpeen hammers from my dad that he inherited. My set of Hart framing/trim hammers still work but have lost that bright shiny quality that made me buy them when they were first introduced. Recently I came across a hardware dealer at a flea market who had hickory/ash hammer handles at $1.50 each. I bought 4 with metal wedges too. Never can have too many hammers.
MM
Feel is very important.
I remember a story about a very interesting man, Stan Shaw, who was one of the last ‘little mester’ cutlers in Sheffield. He started as an apprentice when he was a teenager, and continued making knives by hand until his nineties; he passed in 2021. He was an interesting character, famous for being extremely traditional about his tools. Before his passing he was often asked when he would retire, and he stated that if he ever broke the hammer he used to set rivets he would quit because he was so used to how that hammer swung he would not be able to re-learn with a new one. He also refused to use a router, preferring to use a strange tool called a “parser-” aka “passer-” drill to cut odd shaped holes for inlays. Sometimes your familiarity with the tool is more important than anything else.
https://www.core77.com/posts/77706/Ingenious-Old-School-Tool-for-Cutting-Accurate-Repeatable-Inlays
Alexk
Thanks for the link. I love learning something new, about something old.
MM
I feel it is important to learn about old tools & techniques. It’s easy to fall into the trap of thinking that modern methods must surely be better, but sometimes old-time ingenuity beats automation. Very often the best results come when you combine the two.
Here is a great idea someone came up with: make this tool but power it with a cordless drill instead of a belly brace and bow:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=005_HNv_v4w
That is actually pretty darn fast, especially when you figure it can cut very sharp internal corners. It would take me a lot longer to cut those inlays using a router and then chisels to clean up the corners. A CNC router with a tool changer could rough out the openings and then switch to a smaller tool to cut the corners but I doubt it would be appreciably, if any, faster than the parser.
Bob
I’ve gone through a lot of blogs/content creators, for tools you’re the best. Thanks for the hard work, it’s much appreciated.
Mark S
This may be an unpopular opinion. But I don’t think a hammer truly matters. I own 5 or 6 different hammers, from the $2.99 Harbor Freight (used to be free with $5 purchase i think!) to the $10 Kobalt (got on clearance for around $3.50…) to the $15 Stanley, to the $20 Milwaukee, to the old one I found on a jobsite 20 years ago that had the name “Rich/k written in Sharpie on it, they are It’s all very similar to me. I’m an electrician, and I occasionally do home stuff. None are better, none are worse than others. Again, all about opinion! Never tried a Stilleto though!
Tdot77
No Klein hammer though?! ;-)
MM
I think part of the reason why comparing hammers to eyeglasses is difficult is that the two situations are completely different.
With eyeglasses there is exactly one goal: correcting vision. The optometrist can use the old lens-swap method, or modern computerized machines that can measure the shape of the eye and calculate the correct prescription, but the end goal is the same thing. And it’s not difficult to define either: the optometrist notes down the diopter and whatever correction for astigmatism (if any) is necessary for each eye. But for a hammer it’s totally different. There are many variables: weight, balance, claw shape, face shape, handle shape, length, material… On top of that many of those things are subjective, and there’s the question of what job are we talking about? A milled face framing hammer is not the best choice for driving brads.
If you ask me, the question “what’s the best hammer” is impossible to answer meaningfully from the get-go. “What hammer do I prefer for framing?” That’s possible to answer.
fred
Yes.
And with glasses – other than selecting and fitting (to align correctly, fit your nose and ears etc.) the frames – plus desire (or not) for features like light-responsive lenses and lens shape/size there is a limited need for considering other human factors.
With hammers there are not only variables associated with the task to be performed – but also with the user. User height, weight, musculature, dominant arm, hand size, age and personal preferences may all come into play.
Grog
My typical process with tools (and other things) is to start with a basic item, hammer in this case, and use it until I get a “it would be useful if I could” moment with it. That’s when I switched to a straight claw, then later switched from waffle head.
I will say I threw my Milwaukee hammer and pry bar away fast, worst nail pulling claws I’ve ever seen.
Interesting to read everyone else’s thoughts on the process above. In the end I agree that there’s no “best” in a lot of tools, just “best fit for me”
S
Very on point.
In my opinion, the “best” tool for anyone is the one that person WANTS to pick up and use. And that rarely follows any real trend.
As an electrician-turned-full-time-mechanic, I find that a lot of my first-reach tools rarely follow a price or name trend. I love my snap-on ‘meme’ pliers, more than any other pliers in an entire drawer full of them, and will still try to use them in situations where another pair might have a better success rate.
But in the same token, I love my harbor freight colored sockets. My other chrome and black oxide sockets that are far nicer, fit better, and are more expensive in every way, but just irritate me in a subtle way that I just don’t care to use them if I absolutely don’t have to.
Neither of those things are quantifiable on paper, or reviews.
TomCat
My favorite hammer is a pound and a half hand drilling hammer that I found in a bunch of junk in an old RV (Thumpy if we were naming it and we are). For 10 years it has aligned, adjusted, moved, bent, set things and also drove more than a few nails. I also have an 8 ounce curved claw that just appeared in my garage at some point, perfect for brads, pins and tacks. Before that it was a 22 ounce straight claw serrated head that I bought at the dollar store because it had a cool red handle. The head came loose because it didn’t have a wedge, but after i found one for it, I used it for eleven years.
Ciccio
I have an old 20 oz Bostitch, kinda heavy and big hitting head, and a 12 oz Eastwing , but the head is too small, sometimes i miss the nail, anyway these are my to go hammers, a small one and a big one.
I was at HD and saw the new Dewalt hammers they are pretty sweet also i saw the Klein with wood handle and square head and they look very nice
JoshtheFurnaceGuy
I agree that noone can verify a “best hammer”. That said, some are and aren’t worth the money. Estwing makes excellent hammers, and Vaughn did. I use a hammer a fair bit, and I haven’t had to try any others.
blocky
My search for the best has often lead me to conclude: THERE ARE SO MANY GOOD TOOLS!
So now, I have 2 primary kits, and then tertiary or quaternary kits. The primary bags have similar but different complements. Both bags have the same layout and hand tools of the same class at each position.
When I’m using an auxiliary kit, I’m often pulling out old favorites or a great tool that didn’t find a home in my main bag (usually for a petty reason, usually weight).
It’s fun to mix it up.
Rx9
The rankings are trivially easy:
#1. Stanley Kirk Burrell
#2. Mercedes-Benz 300E 5.6 AMG
#3. Charles Martel
#4. Walter Stacy Keach Jr.
That said, I prefer to use a nail gun.
Rx9
Not a fan of rankings, per se, but relevant performance stats are always welcome. That’s one of the great things about sites and channels that conduct performance testing.
Roger
A hammer is a hammer. However, from all the hammers I’ve held, a wood handle feels instantly comfortable. Comparing it to metal, plastic, fiberglass, and rubber grip pipe handles. Not too thin and not too mushy. Wood handles give some feedback but not too much vibration.
The claw section is another story. It depends on the task.
I mostly use hammers for hitting or striking stuff other than nails. My choice in the picture would be the Estwing wood handle to the left.
Ben price
Martinez m4 with 12 ounce smooth face d head for most stuff..
Douglas tc 20 with dimple face d head…
Daluge 14 Oz smooth d head if ya maybe want a lighter Douglas….
Stiletto 10 Oz trim hammer with the wood handle….
Just my opinion….
Good Tools
Taiwan made Stanley curved claw and Estwing straight claw, steel handle. They withstand all use & weather, water. I can do all the work and the hammer is always 100% in good condition, hit or scratch the material that damages the wooden or fiberglass.
Matt F
> I feel that, as a shopper, “best product” recommendations are most helpful when they don’t matter, and least helpful when the actual tool use and experience matter a lot.
This is well put.
Have you read Chris Schwarz’s book “The Anarchist’s Tool Chest”? It’s about hand tool woodworking, it has a similar message about focusing on the actual work you’re doing and choosing tools that help you accomplish that. I’m not exaggerating when I say reading it changed my life. https://lostartpress.com/products/the-anarchists-tool-chest
Stuart
I read through much of it a while back, need to get back to it!
A lot of people get hung up on tools, gear, and equipment – myself included – which I guess is okay when it’s obvious or acknowledged, but it can absolutely become an unintentional hindrance.
I see this a lot. “I want to get into woodworking, what should I buy?” I always ask “well, what do you want to make?” and often the person hasn’t thought about that yet.
Ed
Chiming in about favorite hammers. At the age of 17 (I am now 68) a friend got me a job working for a construction company in the Homestead FL area. It was and still is a family run business. On my first day of work, the head carpenter asked me where was my hammer. I did not have one so he gave an extra that he had. At the end of the day he took me aside and asked about the hammer – how did it feel, how many times did I hit my finger while holding nail, etc. I told him that I liked the one he had given me but it seemed too light for the work we were doing. He walked about to his truck and pulled out a hammer and tossed it to me. How does that feel? I held it for a moment and said weight is better. He then had me put some 16 penny nails into a couple of 2 x 4’s -how did that feel? Easier I said. Go to the local hardware store and get this hammer. I still have this hammer all these years later and it is my got to when doing anything which needs a hammer. It is a True Temper 20oz Rocket bought in 1975 with original grip, a little bit of rust ( de-rust it every year and put a little WD40 on the metal to keep rust off) and is without a doubt the oldest tool in my toolbox. I will hand it down to one of my two daughters someday as both are avid DIYers and hopefully they will do the same with their children many years from now.
LGonToolGuy'd
There is a problem mind seeing with large language models. People are spouting tons of bulleted information, presenting it as if they know what they are talking about.
They do not know what the data means or how it should be applied, or if the data even means anything.
It is the wonderful time when you hear someone who sounds really smart. Talk about something that you know way more about and you know that they’re just spouting a few credulous statements, with a bunch of bullcrap coding. It like a ferrero rocher candy.
You see a lot of people spouting nonsense about tools or in my field, tents, backpacks + other gear. These people have not used the materials, they are just talking about the product and using media blurbs to describe them. Only with extended time and effort can you truly know a product.
But for a hammer, is this worth it? No.
Is it worth it for, say some other casual tools? Unlikely?
Is it worth it for something that you plan on using intimately day in and day out? Maybe, but I don’t spend 15 hours citing reviews and data on ballpoint pens. Despite using them for hours each day
A pen will work.
I bet a lot of normies do just fine grabbing any kind of drill bits from a store that aren’t complete garbage for whatever simple project they’re doing, like hanging up some shelving, etc.
If you are making money using your tools, shane empirical effort and data is worth it.
Thank God for torque test channel and project farm which has done a lot of the work for us on power tools and other things so casual people can avoid spending tons of money on something they may not need, or spending very little in getting a bad product.
You are in this box of reliable reviewers too, Stuart. Helping us know when something is vital to pay attention to the details, or when you just go into the store and grab what is there.
Thank you.
Frank D.
The best hammer is the one you have at hand, which may just be a $5 el cheapo.
If you only need to put a picture hanger in the wall or some of the most basic stuff, and maybe some quick temporary repairs. Pretty much anything will do. Or in a pinch like post hurricane temporary repairs; just fly in; buy a bucket, a hammer, crow bar, box knife, caulking gun, a box of roofing nails, a roll of tar paper, … )
But as you get into more serious DIY and more specialized construction, framing, roofing, demolition, landscaping, … pretty soon you need something lighter, bigger, heavier, longer, different head … flooring & tiling, now we’re talking rubber mallets.
Just like with pry bars. Sometimes you need smaller or bigger.
And power tools … for ergonomics and to get into tight places where the old standard size does not fit. Small helps with overhead work fatigue and extra reaches. Cordless for safety and ease of use; unless it is repetitive and heavy duty.
Leo B.
The best is subjective. Even in your picture, I don’t see too many of the hammers the really skilled carpenters use in my area. Lots of titanium, Vaughan Cali framers, a few rigging axes, old Dalluge chrome framers, Hart woodies, etc. I use a Martinez, and would be hard pressed to trade it for anything else. Set aside the best, Stuart. Which was your favorite, and why? And which cats paw were you using?
Kevin
It’s interesting to look at testing and reviews in a different manner. I’ve always kinda felt this way myself. While I’m guilty of buying from “the best” list. Especially when it’s something completely outside my wheelhouse. I typically buy from my personal preference list only after reading all the best lists. An example of preference over best is my dewalt cordless tool collection, because of discounts and batteries my collection of tools is almost all yellow n black. I have bought things like shears, hand saws, squares, etc only because they match all the power tools I own. I don’t think every dewalt power tool is the best, but some are, and I know for a fact that their hand tools aren’t stand out tools. I’m not going to have outstanding reviews. I also have plenty of tools that are what I consider the best with value always taken into account. They’re not on everyone’s best list, or maybe nobodies. They’re the best for me in my hands to do what I’m doing. And that’s all that mattress.
I agree with your sentiment. The point of it is, there is no best because everyone has a different preference. There might be quality differences that make a tool last longer, but if you don’t like the way it feels or how it handles. It’s not the best for you.
chip hershberger
For carpentry its a Vaughn 20 oz.
What I’ve used the most, a cut down to 18″ 6lb sledge with fiberglass handle.
The one that is thr most fun,is an old 6oz Snap-on ball pene….used to cut out gaskets that I don’t have.
Btw a roll of gasket material, all-thread with washers and nuts.
Are very good supplies to keep on hand,you never know when you need to make a bolt or gasket.