I was checking the price on a Bosch table saw deal that I was going to write about today (it sold out, but the cordless saws are still discounted a bit), and Amazon decided to show me this Workpro Japanese-style pull-cutting woodworking saw.
It does’t look very special, but then I saw the price – $9.
More specifically, it’s $8.99 at the time of this posting. That’s really cheap compared to what I’m used to for Japanese-style woodworking hand saws.
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This pull saw is double-edged, with 14 and 17 TPI profiles.
According to the specs, the saw has a 6″ blade and 12-1/4″ overall length. That’s compact, relatively speaking, but not small.
It has a flexible blade and beech handle.
I tend to prefer pull saws over western-style push saws for most wood-cutting applications. Plus, their flexibility make them perfect for tasks like flush-cutting wood dowels, although I’m not sure this one is fine-toothed enough for that.
My cousin recently asked me what she needs to restore an old busted-looking western-style hand saw that she bought at a flea market or similar. I told her she’ll need a triangular file and maybe a saw set, and that I’d doublecheck with readers (sorry, that post is in the queue). I was putting some tools together for her, and included a spare Japanese-style pull saw. I would have promptly ordered this one for her had I seen it sooner. $9 seems cheap for this type of tool.
I haven’t tried this one yet. I might soon, but I’ve ordered too many tools to check out recently and put a pause on review spending until I can catch up.
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Looking around a bit, I see that Workpro has a full range of pull saws.
It’s good to know they more size and style options, but I think it’s safer to start with just one.
If you’re unsure about taking a chance on the Workpro, I can recommend this Shark, a brand I’ve had great experiences with over the years. This one has a 24 TPI blade and is fantastic for fine-cutting tasks.
Are pull saws right for you? This Shark – or the Workpro above – might answer that for you.
Matt F
Pull saws are great. For flush cutting, this is the one I use: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/japanese/32928-veritas-flush-cutting-saws
It’s $35, so not quite as cheap, but it works really well. The teeth only have set on the top face so it doesn’t gouge the workpiece as you’re cutting.
MM
Agreed, pull saws are fantastic. I sometimes comment about “epiphany tools”–things that, once you use them for the first time, you are shocked at how good they are and you wonder why you haven’t learned about that tool sooner.
In my opinion Japanese saws do this three-fold. The first time you use a pull saw, even a cheapo, you’re impressed. The first time you use a nice Japanese saw you’re even more impressed. And if you’re lucky enough to get to use one of the hand-made ones your jaw might be on the floor while you make strange toddler noises trying to describe just how amazing that one cuts.
I’m sure this saw will be decent. Even the Pittsburgh (Harbor Freight) 6-1/2″ model that I paid $3 for is surprisingly good for the money. But that said, the basic Japanese brands like Z-saw, Bakuma, and Gyokucho will probably be a lot better for not a lot more money, and they are still beginner-friendly. I’m mystified why they are not easier to find in the US. They are much better than any knockoff Japanese-style saw I’ve ever used, and they’re not expensive.
A few others I think are worthy of mention:
Kijima makes a variety of saws, some of which are in the same category as Z-saw, etc, above. But they also make more traditional style saws where the whole blade is hardened instead of just the teeth. These are resharpenanable, and can be identified by the pink text on the blade.
My favorite brand, because the value-for-money is absolutely incredible, is “Bessho Jiro” by Hishika. These are handmade, fully-hardened and hand-straightened, but by a workshop rather than a single master smith. Prices are very reasonable. You have to spend several times the money to get something that performs appreciably better. This one in particular is excellent value if anyone is looking for a general-purpose smaller woodworking saw and wants to try out nicer Japanese saws without breaking the bank:
https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B00A43SHHG
Ray
I am only on step 1 of 3, but I believe you. I picked up a 5.5″ Vaughan Bear Saw at Menards a few years ago and was immediately impressed with how easily it cut. I don’t work with wood enough to need anything else, but I’ll keep this recommendation in mind when it is time to upgrade.
Stuart_T
I’ve had a couple of Sharksaws for15 years or so. Mine have the fine and coarse tooth blade. I use the fine most of the time but the coarse teeth are good when cutting into end grain. I was also able to get a replacement blade on Amazon several years ago after an anonymous plumber on my new house, clearly unfamiliar with them, bent the blade while presumably trying to cut a piece of PVC pipe. They are the first saw I reach for most of the time. Indeed “epiphanic” if you haven’t used one before.
MM
I don’t have any personal experience with Shark, but traditional double-sided saws (Ryoba) normally have rip-cut teeth on one side and crosscut on the other, with the rip side being the coarser of the two. If you look close it’s not just the size of the teeth that differs, it is also the shape and the angles at which they are sharpened. It makes perfect sense you’d find the coarser side better for cutting into end grain as that’s specifically what that side is designed for. The two sides aren’t so much “coarse and fine” as they are “rip and crosscut”.
fred
Hida Tools – in California has been a reliable source (for me) for quality handmade tools from Japan:
https://hidatool.com/list/c/woodworking
I grew up a a time when there were many high-quality western-style hand saws on the market from makers like Atkins and Diston. Stanley was then making good hand planes and chisels. Buck Brothers gouges were decent. Nicholason and Heller were making professional quality files and rasps. Then something happened and quality dropped precipitously. I learned about Japanese saws in the 1970’s – and they were hard to source, expensive but an eye opener. At first, I didn’t get the style – the long handles or the pull stroke. Trying to use a larger one holding the work with my left hand at the same level as i would with a western saw made no sense. There was no Internet – but I found a book with pictures about Japanese woodworking techniques, and it all made sense – holding the work lower using my legs.
For garden chores – Japanese saws can also be an eyeopener. I highly recommend the Silky brand.
https://www.amazon.com/stores/SilkySaws/page/6F23AC04-6B10-4CF9-AEBF-33A89E2577E7?lp_asin=B0CG9TSVF1&ref_=ast_bln&store_ref=bl_ast_dp_brandLogo_sto
To Stuart’s point about restoring an old hand saw: if it is over 75 years old – it might be worth a shot – but if its mass-market junk made in the 1970’s or later – it might be better for decorative use. Some new American makers tried to make a comeback producing western style saws – but that seems to have been a hit or miss sort of thing. I bought some from Wenzloff & Sons that were well made and cut very smoothly – but alas are now only available on the aftermarket.
IronWood
Love my pull saws! I use Shark and Topman for rougher, toolbag use. In the shop I have Z Saws and a couple other Japanese ones. I wouldn’t go with something kinda off-brand like workpro personally. Just get the real deal Japanese ones for a few bucks more, it’s worth it. I’m also not a big fan of the double sided blades. Eventually you’ll lose the guards or have to take them off to cut flush or thicker stock and you will cut yourself on the back edge. I don’t have any double sided any more, but I do still have a couple scars…